As a maintenance guy and generally knowledgeable and mechanically inclined individual (yet no expert at refrigeration)You explained this exceptionally well that ANYONE, at any skill set, could understand. You have a real gift at teaching and also online video editing skills. Great tutorial brother!
The refrigerator shown was not the same as mine but there is enough good stuff here that I was able to dig around in mine and find out what the problem was! Just canceled the delivery of a new refrigerator! Thanks!
Again, another excellent video that clearly shows what to check for and how to test. I can imagine any repairperson who does home visits will need to include a small laptop in their toolbox with your channel on by default so they can have you as a reference at their fingertips.
The people you are referring to are parts changing monkeys, a self respecting technician would have already reviewed the model of the appliance even before setting foot in the customer's house!
THANK YOU so much for this video! My refrigerator's freezer was working fine, but there was no cold air coming from the vent on the refrigerator side. When I removed the cover in the freezer, I saw what the problem was. At approximately 5:38, you show a bad defrost thermostat. Mine looked EXACTLY as you showed it, where it had swelled and popped up the top. I've ordered an OEM replacement part for about $35, so I'm hoping that will fix the issue. If not, I'll come back to this video and see what else might be causing the issue. Enthusiastic thumbs up!
Let me just tell you how great you are, I'm girl might I add, I was able to defrost the evaporator coils and get my frig/ freezer operating again and determine what part I need! Thank you thank thank you😊 ! Dude you are good😊!!!!! And I'm going to replace myself, thanks to you! Because I sure couldn't afford 2,000 foe a new frig! Bless you and your video!
Ben, I appreciate your videos so much, you are very thorough and detailed, a complete lay man can follow your instructions and become a pro. Kudos, keep it up buddy...
Another temporary fix to defrost the freezer (if air flow from freezer to the main fridge is being blocked by frost) is to introduce a switch in series with the compressor winding. This switch can then be used to switch off the compressor only when there is excessive frost. The other fans will remain operating to assist with defrosting. After defrosting the switch can then be switched on for normal operation of the compressor.
Here is a silly question for you. My fridge looks like the one in this video. It has the knobs not digital. So where do you test the temperature? When I check the temperature at the back by the damper it is about 30 degrees while the bottom shelf is about 40 degrees.
Great video! I followed all the steps in your video, and had very similar results. I have the same model and issue as you mentioned. Freezer 0 degrees or less and fridge 45-50 degrees. Still no results!! When is that second video coming out. Help please!!
Thanks for the video. I'm having a similar issue with my KitchenAid KFCP. The problem is that it will work for a day or two and then the refrigerator gets warm again. I cleaned the coils (no effect) and then replaced the Damper assembly as the Evaporator fan is working but the damper door would not open. It only worked for a day so I then replaced the Thermistor but it did not solve the problem. At this point do you think it may be the Control board? I'm reluctant due to the cost but more importantly, I haven't seen a circuit board have intermittent problems unless there another fault elsewhere but maybe I'm wrong in this case. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you so much for this video. I'm suspecting the evaporator fan has stopped working in my unit. I'm assuming I tested the resistance correctly and got no reading. The defrost thermostat looks to be okay, don't see anything popping out from it and believe there's continuity when I connected the multimeter to it. Is it safe to assume that if the defrost thermostat was bad, the coils won't defrost when I turn the dial to 0?
Hi At this point with my Frigidaire GLHS67EHQ side-by-side refrigerator, I’ve replaced the damper, evaporator thermostat, and evaporator fan (which is running). Although the compressor was working, I decided to install a new start device since the unit is 12 years old and I was already cleaning the condenser coil. The damper is open, and air is flowing, but there doesn’t seem to be much velocity. The freezer is cold, but the fridge side remains warm. There’s no corrosion, and there’s no ice buildup on the evaporator. I also replaced the control panel, but that didn’t resolve the cooling issue on the fridge side either. I’ve checked and rechecked everything, including re-crimping the evaporator thermostat wires to ensure they were properly connected, but the problem persists. I’ve also removed the ice maker and top back panel to check for obstructions, and everything looks good. The vent by the crisper is clear as well. I’ve been working on this for days and am not sure what else I can check. Any further guidance would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for any ideas in advance. Dean
My unit is a little older, the cooling seems to be dependent on the ambient humidity, I checked my Frigidaire, it has a vent that is operated by a thermostat that has no electrical connection, just a rod that pushes the door open and a spring closes it
The problem with my fridge was that on the freezer side, there is a hole that is letting air circulate from one side to the other... so that hole was clogged with ice. So is not air circulating. My solution was using my wife's hair dryer, I melted that ice until I was able to remove it completely.
That’s the way those old freezers were, I had a hot water heater that was still working after 60 yrs and replaced it. Although it still was working. Manufacturers used to take pride in what they made. Oh wait.... that was before everything came from China!
What are the best settings for Frigidaire side by side? Freezer setting? And refrigerator setting. Factory setting is 6 according to book. Max is 9 and 9.
My defrost timer runs normally when it stops when it reaches the defrost mark. After 2 or 3 hours, I have to manually turn the defrost timer past the defrost mark and the compressor then starts working again. This is a brand new timer. The heater, thermal fuse and defrost sensor are all tested and working. What could be the problem?
I am working on one. The freezer is on the bottom. Touch control is on the inside edge of the left door. So when doors are closed the touchpad controller is sandwiched between the left and the right door. Have no control when touching the touchpad. I have a touchpad and board on order.
Waht is your opinion on quality of the cabinet depth Frigidair french door 23.3 Sq Ft water and ice inside the door? Looking to buy one very soon. Thanks for the great videos
I have a 2016 model Frigidaire side by side with h1 error codes for both sides, have replaced compressor starter and control board.. Do you have any idea what might be happening? Thanks
Excellent videos. Thank you so much. I have a 000 error code (Error 000=Problem with Icemaker) on my temperature control display in the refrigerator (GE Monogram ZISB420DXA). I am unable to put it in to the Diagnostic mode (+ / -) on the Temperature control board until the 000 reading is gone. Currently, i have manually registered via a thermometer 0-2 degrees in the freezer and 48 degrees in the refrigerator (too high) A few points: 1) Ice maker is working perfectly as well as dispensing as designed. The entire icemaker unit was replaced. Not sure why it would register a 000 error code when it all works. 2) New parts installed: a) HMI Assembly temperature board b) Evaporator fan motor c) Condensor fan motor d) Three sensors (One in freezer and one in the refrigerator) * did not replace the senser by the damper in the climate control drawer e) Ice maker f) Inverter (Start relay is located in the inverter on this model, not a separate component) g) Main control board h) New 20 Amp breaker i) Plug is working fine Any ideas, Ben? I have had 2 repairmen out who can't fix it! Seriously!! They keep saying a new control board - ANOTHER one! Your thoughts? I really appreciate your help. Kate
I have the Frigidaire FFHS2311PF4. ITS NOT SHUTTING OFF.. the temp is 24* in the fridge with it set on highest (1) setting..Freezer is freezing fine ..it just won't shut off making it to cold on fridge side..
Way too COMPLICATED😤😤😤😥😥😥MY GREAT GRANNY'S, WAS THE FIRST FROST FREE, TYPE. IT WAS LIKE A SOLID SAFE!! IT NEVER HAD ANY OF THESE PROBLEMS! SHE JUST KEPT EVERYTHING CLEAN! LIKE FAN, COILS, ETC. I RAN FOR HER TROUBLE FREE FOR OVER 45 YEARS! IT STILL RUNS PERFECT
A landlord I had years back let us use his chest freezer because it was too heavy to move. That thing was about 45 years old and looked about 100 years old. Ran like a champ
I ordered the damper you listed. It's different than the one in your video. Similar but the connectors are different. How's that gonna work?? UPDATE: Further review online shows that you've posted the completely wrong Damper. The one in your video is what I have, leading me to believe your posted damper was it. C'mon dude.
This can['t happen normally, to this type of refrigerator, unless you just caught the refrigerator at the end of the defrost cycle, The other possibility is that you have a totally different refrigerator that has 2 evaporator (cooling coils), one in the freezer compartment, and another one in the fresh-food compartment. Then you have another whole set of possible problems and solutions.
Very swell, informative videos, I don't mean to be rude but, "needs replaced?" "needs removed?" Why do so many people leave out the "to be"? I'm genuinely curious. Is it some sort of regional thing? Are they teaching it that way now for some bizarre reason?
LOOK AT USED' FRIDGE' STORES. BUY THE MUCH OLDER ONES. KENMORE! FRIGIDAIRE WAS GREAT WAY BACK THEN. TODAY THEY ARE cheap and made to break! The older ones were way more solid.
@@aleciacope3503 anything 23 years or older. They were made MUCH STRONGER AND DURABLE BACK THEN. SAME WITH FRIDGES WE HAVE A FRIDGE OVER 40 YEARS OLD. STILL RUNS LIKE NEW. PUT SUNBEAM COFFEE MAKE IS 41 YEARS OLD.
@@captainamericaamerica8090 only issue with your 40 year old refrigerator is it’s power consumption, unless you have your own large solar-electric system providing free power, the power savings from a modern refrigerator will SAVE, therefore paying for the cost of the new refrigerator within around 3 years. Then save you hundreds of dollars on power each year thereafter.
I'd recommend buying a refrigerator (& any other appliance) with the least amount of features. Less things to go wrong & most of that extra stuff is to just get you looking. It's all BS & adds no actual value in the long run. I wouldn't go looking to buy a 10+ year old appliance. If it was free & I needed one then yes. A modern appliance with lass features will give you the energy savings & be more reliable with cost effective repairs. I'm not trying to offend anyone except I might by saying don't let your wife (male or female) pick the fancy one!
Ben, I’m making the following comments as constructive criticism only. I’m definitely hoping that you have confused the heck out of viewers so as they don’t try to dismantle their refrigerator as from my experience as a domestic appliance repair technician it usually ends up in tears with a refrigerator or whatever else totally unrepairable or even dangerous with potential electrocution as a result. Then there’s the common situation where a qualified technician gets a service call to put back together an appliance that’s in pieces then having to reverse engineer what the original fault may have been
We have a newer version of the same fridge and I notice that the plastic liner on the inside is very, very, thin. It's only 5 years old and there are many small cracks toward the bottom of the refrigerator and a huge crack in the freezer exposing the foam. The fridge still runs and is cold so we will keep it but when you open the door it just screams "CHEAP!!".
I have a Kenmore refrigerator (795.79309..900) with internal filter, internal water dispenser and ice maker. The incoming water is bypassing the filter, and going straight to the water dispenser and ice maker. Any ideas why it’s not going through the filter. Even if I remove the filter, without using the electronic locking button, water still won’t come out where the filter sits.
![Refrigerator Not Cooling - How to Fix - What to Check [2020]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ocOW2GYxdTE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Refrigerator Not Cooling - How to Fix - What to Check [2020]](/img/tr.png)
As a maintenance guy and generally knowledgeable and mechanically inclined individual (yet no expert at refrigeration)You explained this exceptionally well that ANYONE, at any skill set, could understand. You have a real gift at teaching and also online video editing skills. Great tutorial brother!
thanks!
The refrigerator shown was not the same as mine but there is enough good stuff here that I was able to dig around in mine and find out what the problem was! Just canceled the delivery of a new refrigerator! Thanks!
Again, another excellent video that clearly shows what to check for and how to test. I can imagine any repairperson who does home visits will need to include a small laptop in their toolbox with your channel on by default so they can have you as a reference at their fingertips.
The people you are referring to are parts changing monkeys, a self respecting technician would have already reviewed the model of the appliance even before setting foot in the customer's house!
THANK YOU so much for this video! My refrigerator's freezer was working fine, but there was no cold air coming from the vent on the refrigerator side. When I removed the cover in the freezer, I saw what the problem was. At approximately 5:38, you show a bad defrost thermostat. Mine looked EXACTLY as you showed it, where it had swelled and popped up the top. I've ordered an OEM replacement part for about $35, so I'm hoping that will fix the issue. If not, I'll come back to this video and see what else might be causing the issue. Enthusiastic thumbs up!
Hello, I seem to be having the same issue. However, I have yet to remove the cover in my freezer. Did replacing the defrost thermostat fix your issue?
Let me just tell you how great you are, I'm girl might I add, I was able to defrost the evaporator coils and get my frig/ freezer operating again and determine what part I need! Thank you thank thank you😊 ! Dude you are good😊!!!!! And I'm going to replace myself, thanks to you! Because I sure couldn't afford 2,000 foe a new frig! Bless you and your video!
Awesome! I'm glad this video was helpful!
Thank you!!!! Our damper was closed. Saved us some money
Ben, I appreciate your videos so much, you are very thorough and detailed, a complete lay man can follow your instructions and become a pro. Kudos, keep it up buddy...
Thanks for making these great videos. You're very knowledgeable, great teaching skills and your experience makes great appliance troubleshooting.
Your channel is invaluable, and your dedication to the quality of info, and the way you present it is incredible!
Thanks!
Another temporary fix to defrost the freezer (if air flow from freezer to the main fridge is being blocked by frost) is to introduce a switch in series with the compressor winding. This switch can then be used to switch off the compressor only when there is excessive frost. The other fans will remain operating to assist with defrosting. After defrosting the switch can then be switched on for normal operation of the compressor.
Why would you need that if the defrost system is working?
Here is a silly question for you. My fridge looks like the one in this video. It has the knobs not digital. So where do you test the temperature? When I check the temperature at the back by the damper it is about 30 degrees while the bottom shelf is about 40 degrees.
Great video! I followed all the steps in your video, and had very similar results. I have the same model and issue as you mentioned. Freezer 0 degrees or less and fridge 45-50 degrees.
Still no results!! When is that second video coming out. Help please!!
Thanks for the video. I'm having a similar issue with my KitchenAid KFCP. The problem is that it will work for a day or two and then the refrigerator gets warm again. I cleaned the coils (no effect) and then replaced the Damper assembly as the Evaporator fan is working but the damper door would not open. It only worked for a day so I then replaced the Thermistor but it did not solve the problem. At this point do you think it may be the Control board? I'm reluctant due to the cost but more importantly, I haven't seen a circuit board have intermittent problems unless there another fault elsewhere but maybe I'm wrong in this case. Any help would be appreciated.
BEN the green is flux from soldering as I learned from plumbing it should have been wiped off cause it is acid BUT what is the fix ? Like your show .
Thank you so much for this video. I'm suspecting the evaporator fan has stopped working in my unit. I'm assuming I tested the resistance correctly and got no reading. The defrost thermostat looks to be okay, don't see anything popping out from it and believe there's continuity when I connected the multimeter to it. Is it safe to assume that if the defrost thermostat was bad, the coils won't defrost when I turn the dial to 0?
The uniform drew me in !!
Hi
At this point with my Frigidaire GLHS67EHQ side-by-side refrigerator, I’ve replaced the damper, evaporator thermostat, and evaporator fan (which is running). Although the compressor was working, I decided to install a new start device since the unit is 12 years old and I was already cleaning the condenser coil.
The damper is open, and air is flowing, but there doesn’t seem to be much velocity. The freezer is cold, but the fridge side remains warm. There’s no corrosion, and there’s no ice buildup on the evaporator.
I also replaced the control panel, but that didn’t resolve the cooling issue on the fridge side either. I’ve checked and rechecked everything, including re-crimping the evaporator thermostat wires to ensure they were properly connected, but the problem persists.
I’ve also removed the ice maker and top back panel to check for obstructions, and everything looks good. The vent by the crisper is clear as well.
I’ve been working on this for days and am not sure what else I can check. Any further guidance would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for any ideas in advance.
Dean
This is very useful, I have a slightly newer version of this fridge
My unit is a little older, the cooling seems to be dependent on the ambient humidity, I checked my Frigidaire, it has a vent that is operated by a thermostat that has no electrical connection, just a rod that pushes the door open and a spring closes it
The problem with my fridge was that on the freezer side, there is a hole that is letting air circulate from one side to the other... so that hole was clogged with ice. So is not air circulating.
My solution was using my wife's hair dryer, I melted that ice until I was able to remove it completely.
Congratulations on 100,000 subs
where is the link for the cleaning kit?
Why to manufacturer's dis-continue spare parts after about 10 years since this is planned obsolescence in order to you have to buy a new appliance?
What size are the screws to get damper controls off. I got the deep rear out with a 7mm what size are the front screws??
Hey i have a freezer thats 45 years old i cant believe its still good to go. Whats your thoughts.
That’s the way those old freezers were, I had a hot water heater that was still working after 60 yrs and replaced it. Although it still was working. Manufacturers used to take pride in what they made. Oh wait.... that was before everything came from China!
Excellent video. Time to take my damper apart.
What are the best settings for Frigidaire side by side? Freezer setting? And refrigerator setting. Factory setting is 6 according to book. Max is 9 and 9.
My defrost timer runs normally when it stops when it reaches the defrost mark. After 2 or 3 hours, I have to manually turn the defrost timer past the defrost mark and the compressor then starts working again. This is a brand new timer. The heater, thermal fuse and defrost sensor are all tested and working. What could be the problem?
I do have a question of what does the corrosion have to do with making it problem you never touched on that in the video
Hey Ben, my evaporator fan in the freezer keeps starting and stopping, its not blocked or frozen, I'm thinking the circuit board, what do you think?
Excellent video sir
I am working on one. The freezer is on the bottom. Touch control is on the inside edge of the left door. So when doors are closed the touchpad controller is sandwiched between the left and the right door. Have no control when touching the touchpad. I have a touchpad and board on order.
Hi Ben,Please let me know ,what compressor can I use to replace the one on a Frigidaire FGUS2642LF0.Regards.
Waht is your opinion on quality of the cabinet depth Frigidair french door 23.3 Sq Ft water and ice inside the door? Looking to buy one very soon. Thanks for the great videos
Is the evaporator fan what blows the air into the refrigerator side?
Yes, as well as help distribute the cold air evenly in the freezer side.
A DC fan motor with >2 leads has 100~120 ohms across which set of contacts?
I have a 2016 model Frigidaire side by side with h1 error codes for both sides, have replaced compressor starter and control board.. Do you have any idea what might be happening? Thanks
What size are those hex heads?
Thanks well done Sir.
YAAASSS KINGGG you are amazing!!!
Thanks!
Excellent videos. Thank you so much. I have a 000 error code (Error 000=Problem with Icemaker) on my temperature control display in the refrigerator (GE Monogram ZISB420DXA). I am unable to put it in to the Diagnostic mode (+ / -) on the Temperature control board until the 000 reading is gone.
Currently, i have manually registered via a thermometer 0-2 degrees in the freezer and 48 degrees in the refrigerator (too high)
A few points:
1) Ice maker is working perfectly as well as dispensing as designed. The entire icemaker unit was replaced. Not sure why it would register a 000 error code when it all works.
2) New parts installed:
a) HMI Assembly temperature board
b) Evaporator fan motor
c) Condensor fan motor
d) Three sensors (One in freezer and one in the refrigerator) * did not replace the senser by the damper in the climate control drawer
e) Ice maker
f) Inverter (Start relay is located in the inverter on this model, not a separate component)
g) Main control board
h) New 20 Amp breaker
i) Plug is working fine
Any ideas, Ben? I have had 2 repairmen out who can't fix it! Seriously!! They keep saying a new control board - ANOTHER one!
Your thoughts? I really appreciate your help.
Kate
You do a great job. Thanks
I have the Frigidaire FFHS2311PF4.
ITS NOT SHUTTING OFF.. the temp is 24* in the fridge with it set on highest (1) setting..Freezer is freezing fine ..it just won't shut off making it to cold on fridge side..
How you know the damper is damage if is open but the air not coming out
Ben, you’re great. But it’s an Air Damper, not an Air Dampener.
You're right. I dont know why I always call it that for some reason.
Too funny. I just had to go check my comment to make sure I spelled it correctly. Lol
I get air flow if the freezer door is open, but when I close the freezer door, there is no air flow at all. Any suggestions.
There will be likely an ice obstruction behind the evap in freezer.
hey ben can you help me i need the 2 bottom screws that go on the door that go mounted on the bottom bracket of a lg easy load model # dlgx7881we
Way too COMPLICATED😤😤😤😥😥😥MY GREAT GRANNY'S, WAS THE FIRST FROST FREE, TYPE. IT WAS LIKE A SOLID SAFE!! IT NEVER HAD ANY OF THESE PROBLEMS! SHE JUST KEPT EVERYTHING CLEAN! LIKE FAN, COILS, ETC. I RAN FOR HER TROUBLE FREE FOR OVER 45 YEARS! IT STILL RUNS PERFECT
A landlord I had years back let us use his chest freezer because it was too heavy to move. That thing was about 45 years old and looked about 100 years old.
Ran like a champ
I have the exact opposite issue. Freezer is too warm (-6 to lowest I've seen - 12C) and the fridge is around a good temp
I ordered the damper you listed. It's different than the one in your video. Similar but the connectors are different. How's that gonna work?? UPDATE: Further review online shows that you've posted the completely wrong Damper. The one in your video is what I have, leading me to believe your posted damper was it. C'mon dude.
I have the opposite issue. Freezer is 60 degrees. Refrigerator is 34
Same here have you found a solution
This can['t happen normally, to this type of refrigerator, unless you just caught the refrigerator at the end of the defrost cycle, The other possibility is that you have a totally different refrigerator that has 2 evaporator (cooling coils), one in the freezer compartment, and another one in the fresh-food compartment. Then you have another whole set of possible problems and solutions.
My fridge won’t keep food cold or freeze & is putting out waves of heat & the sides are red hot. I can’t wait to get it out of here.
😂😂😂
I've had 2 refrigerators in a row that started leaking freon in 4 years.
My refrigerator motor runs but is not getting worm and does not get cold
it is a ge model 2010 sideXside
This fridges looks nearly identical to mine
Very swell, informative videos, I don't mean to be rude but,
"needs replaced?"
"needs removed?"
Why do so many people leave out the "to be"? I'm genuinely curious. Is it some sort of regional thing? Are they teaching it that way now for some bizarre reason?
It happens right about Ohio I think.
Damper door, not dampener.
Why do these control boards cost so much? They are not high speed gaming computers. It is not rocket surgery.
LOOK AT USED' FRIDGE' STORES. BUY THE MUCH OLDER ONES. KENMORE! FRIGIDAIRE WAS GREAT WAY BACK THEN. TODAY THEY ARE cheap and made to break! The older ones were way more solid.
How old a Kenmore are you suggesting? Twenty years old? 30?
@@aleciacope3503 anything 23 years or older. They were made MUCH STRONGER AND DURABLE BACK THEN. SAME WITH FRIDGES
WE HAVE A FRIDGE OVER 40 YEARS OLD. STILL RUNS LIKE NEW. PUT SUNBEAM COFFEE MAKE IS 41 YEARS OLD.
@@captainamericaamerica8090 only issue with your 40 year old refrigerator is it’s power consumption, unless you have your own large solar-electric system providing free power, the power savings from a modern refrigerator will SAVE, therefore paying for the cost of the new refrigerator within around 3 years. Then save you hundreds of dollars on power each year thereafter.
I'd recommend buying a refrigerator (& any other appliance) with the least amount of features. Less things to go wrong & most of that extra stuff is to just get you looking. It's all BS & adds no actual value in the long run. I wouldn't go looking to buy a 10+ year old appliance. If it was free & I needed one then yes. A modern appliance with lass features will give you the energy savings & be more reliable with cost effective repairs. I'm not trying to offend anyone except I might by saying don't let your wife (male or female) pick the fancy one!
Ben, I’m making the following comments as constructive criticism only.
I’m definitely hoping that you have confused the heck out of viewers so as they don’t try to dismantle their refrigerator as from my experience as a domestic appliance repair technician it usually ends up in tears with a refrigerator or whatever else totally unrepairable or even dangerous with potential electrocution as a result. Then there’s the common situation where a qualified technician gets a service call to put back together an appliance that’s in pieces then having to reverse engineer what the original fault may have been
First, I think his video was great. I was able to replace my defrost thermostat VERY easily, for
Captain Service Call over there
Modern junk, too cheaply made
We have a newer version of the same fridge and I notice that the plastic liner on the inside is very, very, thin. It's only 5 years old and there are many small cracks toward the bottom of the refrigerator and a huge crack in the freezer exposing the foam. The fridge still runs and is cold so we will keep it but when you open the door it just screams "CHEAP!!".
Ppppppp
I have a Kenmore refrigerator (795.79309..900) with internal filter, internal water dispenser and ice maker. The incoming water is bypassing the filter, and going straight to the water dispenser and ice maker. Any ideas why it’s not going through the filter.
Even if I remove the filter, without using the electronic locking button, water still won’t come out where the filter sits.