I too would really enjoy seeing more 3d printing tutorials, this was really great to watch. I'd like to see a video of your (aaron) process for importing an stl and cleaning it up for use. Hoping to see lots of 3d printing topics in Vegas too! It'll be my third basecamp, really enjoying the west coast tour going on
This is not a comment on SketchUp, but a cabinetmaker using your creation might appreciate your attention to this issue. Regarding the screw holes, when you are attaching this drawer guide to the back of a drawer, you want the woodscrew to bite into the back of the drawer and NOT the guide itself. You want the screw to pass easily through the guide. Then the screw head will pull the guide tightly to the back of the drawer. The hole need only be a very slightly larger diameter than the outside diameter of the woodscrew. If the hole is too small, and the screw is biting into the guide as it passes through, and to get the screw to completely sink into the drawer, the screw must tear away excess plastic at the interiors surface of the hole until the screw head is seated. FYI, a few of common screw sizes are listed here with their decimals of a inch and their major fractional diameters #6 .138" 9/64" #7 .151" 5/32" #8 .164" 5/32" #9 .177" 11/64" #10 .190" 3/16" Just sayin . . .
I print on an AnyCubic Kobra 2. I'll be upgrading to a Bambu A1. My friends and family are amazed by the things I model and print. Examples are .2mm shims to keep a screen door latch from slipping and locking us out, a replacement threaded lid for my Starbucks cups when I broke the original, and LOADS of shop jigs. I have a 45º attachment for my shooting board, but I need to produce perfect 58.9º angles. So I just printed a jig identical to the 45º, but with the adjusted angle. I've also modeled the extruded rails and fence for my table saw so I can easily produce parts to use the t-slots, like a block to attach to the fence as an offset so I can make crosscuts with my miter gauge and not trap the offcuts against the fence. Oh...and slightly reduced Dominos for dry-fits when I'm doing joinery with the Festool Domino. Loads more, but I'll stop there.
It’s funny… there is a point in owning a 3D printer where you start looking around the house for things to fix or replace… more plastic parts in my world!!
I've been using SketchUp for designing 3D printed parts for years now. I'm very active in the 2A 3D printing community, and as far as I'm aware, I'm the only designer in our little community using it for that purpose. I simply find it the easiest thing to use to directly edit STL files.
Unfortunately missed the live broadcast, but really enjoyed the recording, thanks!
I too would really enjoy seeing more 3d printing tutorials, this was really great to watch. I'd like to see a video of your (aaron) process for importing an stl and cleaning it up for use. Hoping to see lots of 3d printing topics in Vegas too! It'll be my third basecamp, really enjoying the west coast tour going on
This is not a comment on SketchUp, but a cabinetmaker using your creation might appreciate your attention to this issue. Regarding the screw holes, when you are attaching this drawer guide to the back of a drawer, you want the woodscrew to bite into the back of the drawer and NOT the guide itself. You want the screw to pass easily through the guide. Then the screw head will pull the guide tightly to the back of the drawer.
The hole need only be a very slightly larger diameter than the outside diameter of the woodscrew. If the hole is too small, and the screw is biting into the guide as it passes through, and to get the screw to completely sink into the drawer, the screw must tear away excess plastic at the interiors surface of the hole until the screw head is seated.
FYI, a few of common screw sizes are listed here with their decimals of a inch and their major fractional diameters
#6 .138" 9/64"
#7 .151" 5/32"
#8 .164" 5/32"
#9 .177" 11/64"
#10 .190" 3/16"
Just sayin . . .
I print on an AnyCubic Kobra 2. I'll be upgrading to a Bambu A1. My friends and family are amazed by the things I model and print. Examples are .2mm shims to keep a screen door latch from slipping and locking us out, a replacement threaded lid for my Starbucks cups when I broke the original, and LOADS of shop jigs. I have a 45º attachment for my shooting board, but I need to produce perfect 58.9º angles. So I just printed a jig identical to the 45º, but with the adjusted angle. I've also modeled the extruded rails and fence for my table saw so I can easily produce parts to use the t-slots, like a block to attach to the fence as an offset so I can make crosscuts with my miter gauge and not trap the offcuts against the fence. Oh...and slightly reduced Dominos for dry-fits when I'm doing joinery with the Festool Domino. Loads more, but I'll stop there.
It’s funny… there is a point in owning a 3D printer where you start looking around the house for things to fix or replace… more plastic parts in my world!!
Update…I’ll be upgrading to an X1. Buy your last tool first!
I've been using SketchUp for designing 3D printed parts for years now. I'm very active in the 2A 3D printing community, and as far as I'm aware, I'm the only designer in our little community using it for that purpose. I simply find it the easiest thing to use to directly edit STL files.
How are you simplifying stls? I imported a cupholder yesterday and while using cleanup3 it crashed sketchup. Computer is well specced too
I now want to make a crossword puzzle like that but have dumbass easily read in the center.
For structural rigidity, it hurts, not helps, to create the depresions.
Creality Ender 3 V2 but looking at the Bambu P3
hi Aaron, what did you use for recording your screen?
Мне очень понравилось!
L I K E 👍👍🏼👍🏾 👍🏿 👍🏾👍🏼👍 🤩 😇 🤩😇🤩💯💚💯💚💯
Please minimize the chat replies window in the next video? It is blocking viewing whatever you do on the left sometimes.
Oh man! This is one that keeps going back and forth! Ok, I will take it down next time I stream!