I e been trying to figure out what gransfors bruks axe I wanted. And after watching over a 100 videos. Not one of them actualy used their axe to split. I was actually getting angry Noone would demonstrate splitting a normal log as 99% of backpackers use a saw to process 4-6 Inch stock and then split with a small hatchet. Thank you for this video you earned my sub for. Being a real person doing real people things. Small forest axe apears to be for me. Thanks again
Yeah probably because axes are for cutting across grain not with grain. You will not see many videos of people framing rafters with 20lbs sledgehammers either. Gransfors makes splitters and wedges. Look into those.
I am a relative newbie at axes; have only used them for the last seven years, ordinarily in overnight solo hammock-hikes in a nearby state forest (in Pennsylvania). Chronologically, I am almost 68, but axe-wise, I am still a newbie, so I always enjoy people who have more experience sharing their wisdom. Thank you for your clear explanations. Be safe; and enjoy the forest.
Finally an american that says bruk, not bruks. Whats the deal with calling and axe made by gransfors bruk, that SAYS gransfors bruk, gransfors bruks. Its like bruh
I love the company!!! I use the hultafors axes they are literally the same! I have heard the hultafors axes are just a little better quality.... But they are literally made in the warehouse both hand made mine is the much smaller 15" perfect for backpacking I do wish it was a little bigger handle but truly perfect balance in weight. Feels perfect in the hands.
This is an interesting video, I used to own a GB Small forest Axe, the quality was good, but I changed it up to a SA Wetterlings Hunters axe which I still have to this day. I also own the SA Wetterlings Forest Axe which is similar to the GB Swedish Forest Axe but a better chopper. I am not surprised that the GB Splitting Axe chops quite well as many of the wedge profiled Finnish axes I have owned are pretty good chopping axes, though not concave ground but straight with a convexed edge. Also bear in mind axe efficiency varies according to the wood species that is being chopped. Thanks again, WS
HORRIBLE axes! They almost always come with poor hangs, brittle edges and are almost never aligned properly. None of them are camp axes. Scandinavian Forest axes are cruisers (for delimbing felled trees and brazing in the field). The smaller ones are kindling hatchets.
When overlanding I carry the Small Splitting Axe, Small Forest Axe and a hatchet. I also bring the Stihl MSA 220. I find that I use primarily the Small splitting Axe after using the Stihl to cut up any down tree that I find. The small splitting Axe is a beast for its size. All three are great axes. The hatchet makes quick work of kindling.
I be seen a technique where when you strike your axe head into a larger log; keep axe in turn the axe with log swing log and axe lead with log using its weight save your axe and get the split; just bought the small forest and will be getting the mask/sharpener you recommend 👍
I sincerely believe the small forest and axes in its size range are a gimmick. Unless working exclusively with green woods for bushcrafting type of chores, it's really more dangerous than its worth. They will all work, absolutely, but once you get to the point in which you use axes on a daily basis, or own dozens and dozens, it's weakness, inability to do much of anything very well, compounded by its increased danger of use make it really a gimmick tool. I own the small forest, several Basque pruning axes in the same size, the Wetterlings large and small hunters, etc. So this doesn't come from a place of elitisms, or biases, it's just the reality. This man really seems to know what he's talking about, and it's only a patter of time until he comes to this realization for himself. I would be very interested to see an update to this topic in the future, after your opinions inevitably change, and you join the boys axe camp (closer to the scandi axe size 21.5-25 inch handles on 1.5- 2.5 lb heads) like the rest of us. We all started with the gimmick trend of the small forest, and there is a reason why they have been relegated to hangers, or to general shop tools for the majority of us.
I shoulda got that. I only car camp and regret getting the Scandinavian. Especially when my brother in law destroyed my handle with overstrike. It’s not not ideal for me when I’m just splitting firewood. I’ll prolly end up buying the splitting axe in the near future
I have the large splitting axe from Gränsfors. It is not something you take camping, but it isnt enormous either. It is much safer to use than it's little brother because I rarely have to use much force to split anything, and that makes my precision better and I dont get tired as fast. If you're going to use it at home I would really recommend the larger alternative.
Very nice! The only test I lack is that of woodcarving (say a wooden spoon or something). I really think the forrest axe is designed to be just in the middle of these two functions: chopping and woodcarving.
Unless you prefer an axe to a knife, an axe is really not for carving while a knife is. You're referring to a "spoon" not a barn door. It's a knife's job.
@@paulhomsy2751 So no. I am from Sweden (as are Gränsfors Bruk). I have studied Traditional Outdoorsmanship and Handycraft full time for two years, at a school that actually helped develop the forrest axe model together with Gränsfors. Axes have a very real place in traditional Scandinavian woodcarving. Knifes too ofcoarse, but usually you do the groundwork with the axe and the details with the knife. But what do I know... maybe I am thinking of door making... 🙄
@@LiveFree765 Once again, there are many tools that are used in woodcarving. There are numerous kinds, shapes and sizes of knifes (with straight and bended blades, straight and bended edges, one or two handles etc.), axes, chisels, gouges, adzes and so on designed for and used in woodcarving. (The forest axe is explicitly designed to be used is both woodcarving and woodchopping.) In simple field bushcraft, axe and knife is mostly used.
Thats why the small forest axe is perhaps not a good choice. You can do some twist when impacting the log. to prevent the handle being damaged. But after some logs you will get wrist pains. The sfa is too much a cutting head. Other Scandinavian brands have a more universal head with the 19" handle. (less cutting some more splitting shape). Big logs need to be peeled like an onion with smaller axes. Do not try to split from the middle. And smaller axes try logs not greater then from wrist to elbow. Like the sharpener though. Great vid !
@@TheBearEssentials I have the SFA! My favorite size as well, and such great quality. An axe mask and handle protector would be a nice upgrade! They are on my list!
they have BEEN using reclaimed "Mystery Metal" for many years....problem with ALL the swedes is that they have a bad tendency to temper them TOO HARD....then, when you hit a small piece of gravel in the bark, or in the ground, they will chip...Council Tool uses 5160 Spring Steel for their axes and they are MUCH better than the swedes...I've had many of both....suit yourself.....OnWard.....
I’ve seen people flip the wood with axe inside and use the weight of the wood to cut through the logs. If that makes sense. 1. Swing 2. With axe imbedded in the log lift and flip log so the weight and momentum of the log cuts the log
Incredible content man, keep it up. Question, how do you feel about batoning? It seems to be a contentious topic for most, but I've found it incredibly effective, especially if you're using the right blade with a thick spine and a little softer steel, so it doesn't chip.
GBA make really HQ axes, with patina and tradition built in to them. But - both I and a number of axe you tubers - have had problems with chipping and folding edges. Often it is because of too thin and small of a bit angle. According to GBA (I had a long conversation the ohher day) the bit angle för the Small Forest axe is about 35 degrees, in the swell. Can't measure at the edge due to the convex edge. And for the Scandi it is 33-35 degrees. So it happens that they grind the bit too much and too thin = chipping problems.
Thank you for the video! I’ve been trying to decide between the splitting hatchet (48cm) and the small splitting axe (60cm) for campsite work. We mostly have larger pre split pieces of wood, or small rounds (8” or under) that need to be processed down a bit for fires. I’m leaning toward the 48cm for that reason as working on my knees and letting the heavy axe head do it’s thing seems ideal. I’m wondering if you have any input from your usage of the small splitting axe. Would a smaller version be viable, or do you see the extra handle length of the 60cm as something you wouldn’t want to let go of? Thanks again! -Andy
Hard to say between all 3 of these. I use the small forest the most. But depending on the trip I’ll bring a diff one. I’m really liking the splitter nowadays
@@7Nowhere7 not a bad bet! I make the mask + sharpener for it too if you’re ever interested shoot me a message. The one that comes with it is sufficient though for your first few years
@@SPCxRecon Thx for the support and positive review Ashen, I'll send you a real beautiful sheath this evening, Just finishing the hardware on it today.
![The 10 BEST Knots in Life [For VISUAL Learners]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5lLPAHK_k6I/mqdefault.jpg)
I e been trying to figure out what gransfors bruks axe I wanted. And after watching over a 100 videos. Not one of them actualy used their axe to split. I was actually getting angry Noone would demonstrate splitting a normal log as 99% of backpackers use a saw to process 4-6 Inch stock and then split with a small hatchet. Thank you for this video you earned my sub for. Being a real person doing real people things. Small forest axe apears to be for me. Thanks again
Yeah probably because axes are for cutting across grain not with grain. You will not see many videos of people framing rafters with 20lbs sledgehammers either. Gransfors makes splitters and wedges. Look into those.
I am a relative newbie at axes; have only used them for the last seven years, ordinarily in overnight solo hammock-hikes in a nearby state forest (in Pennsylvania). Chronologically, I am almost 68, but axe-wise, I am still a newbie, so I always enjoy people who have more experience sharing their wisdom. Thank you for your clear explanations. Be safe; and enjoy the forest.
As a fellow Pennsylvanian looking for good camping spots may I ask what state forest you recommend?
Love the sheaths😁 and great idea with the sharpener!
Thanks brother!! Do you use a SFA??
@@TheBearEssentials I recently acquired a used Small Forest Axe 😃✊
Excellent video! The sharpener in the mask is BRILLIANT!
Finally an american that says bruk, not bruks. Whats the deal with calling and axe made by gransfors bruk, that SAYS gransfors bruk, gransfors bruks. Its like bruh
I love the company!!! I use the hultafors axes they are literally the same! I have heard the hultafors axes are just a little better quality.... But they are literally made in the warehouse both hand made mine is the much smaller 15" perfect for backpacking I do wish it was a little bigger handle but truly perfect balance in weight. Feels perfect in the hands.
This is an interesting video, I used to own a GB Small forest Axe, the quality was good, but I changed it up to a SA Wetterlings Hunters axe which I still have to this day. I also own the SA Wetterlings Forest Axe which is similar to the GB Swedish Forest Axe but a better chopper. I am not surprised that the GB Splitting Axe chops quite well as many of the wedge profiled Finnish axes I have owned are pretty good chopping axes, though not concave ground but straight with a convexed edge. Also bear in mind axe efficiency varies according to the wood species that is being chopped. Thanks again, WS
HORRIBLE axes! They almost always come with poor hangs, brittle edges and are almost never aligned properly.
None of them are camp axes. Scandinavian Forest axes are cruisers (for delimbing felled trees and brazing in the field). The smaller ones are kindling hatchets.
This is by far the best axe review I have ever seen. Thank you for posting
Instead of torquing an axe out of a log, practice turning the axe and log 180 degrees and let the weight of the log come down on top of the axe head…
He’s counting the amount of swings it’s an axe review video
Great video, Im from sweden so.. only have the small forest axe but it suits my qualitytime perfect.
When overlanding I carry the Small Splitting Axe, Small Forest Axe and a hatchet. I also bring the Stihl MSA 220. I find that I use primarily the Small splitting Axe after using the Stihl to cut up any down tree that I find. The small splitting Axe is a beast for its size. All three are great axes. The hatchet makes quick work of kindling.
I’m picking up my my first Stihl tomorrow and is the MSA220c with peakon chain. Looking forward to it
Good video, I'll check out a few more.
I be seen a technique where when you strike your axe head into a larger log; keep axe in turn the axe with log swing log and axe lead with log using its weight save your axe and get the split; just bought the small forest and will be getting the mask/sharpener you recommend 👍
Axe stuff never hurts!! Love the channel, man!
Thanks a bunch!!!
Fantastic breakdown and review with real life examples! Thank you
I sincerely believe the small forest and axes in its size range are a gimmick. Unless working exclusively with green woods for bushcrafting type of chores, it's really more dangerous than its worth. They will all work, absolutely, but once you get to the point in which you use axes on a daily basis, or own dozens and dozens, it's weakness, inability to do much of anything very well, compounded by its increased danger of use make it really a gimmick tool. I own the small forest, several Basque pruning axes in the same size, the Wetterlings large and small hunters, etc. So this doesn't come from a place of elitisms, or biases, it's just the reality. This man really seems to know what he's talking about, and it's only a patter of time until he comes to this realization for himself. I would be very interested to see an update to this topic in the future, after your opinions inevitably change, and you join the boys axe camp (closer to the scandi axe size 21.5-25 inch handles on 1.5- 2.5 lb heads) like the rest of us. We all started with the gimmick trend of the small forest, and there is a reason why they have been relegated to hangers, or to general shop tools for the majority of us.
..I`ve found an old Elwell 2 1/4 lbs head and put a handle on it that I still had... works great.. nice vid here...keep èm comin`...
Great video! After I watching it , I will buy small splitting axe.
Excellent, it’s honestly one of my fav axes now.
I shoulda got that. I only car camp and regret getting the Scandinavian. Especially when my brother in law destroyed my handle with overstrike. It’s not not ideal for me when I’m just splitting firewood. I’ll prolly end up buying the splitting axe in the near future
I have the large splitting axe from Gränsfors. It is not something you take camping, but it isnt enormous either. It is much safer to use than it's little brother because I rarely have to use much force to split anything, and that makes my precision better and I dont get tired as fast. If you're going to use it at home I would really recommend the larger alternative.
Very nice! The only test I lack is that of woodcarving (say a wooden spoon or something). I really think the forrest axe is designed to be just in the middle of these two functions: chopping and woodcarving.
Great idea I should do that test too!! And I believe you’re correct on that one
Unless you prefer an axe to a knife, an axe is really not for carving while a knife is. You're referring to a "spoon" not a barn door. It's a knife's job.
@@paulhomsy2751 So no. I am from Sweden (as are Gränsfors Bruk). I have studied Traditional Outdoorsmanship and Handycraft full time for two years, at a school that actually helped develop the forrest axe model together with Gränsfors. Axes have a very real place in traditional Scandinavian woodcarving. Knifes too ofcoarse, but usually you do the groundwork with the axe and the details with the knife.
But what do I know... maybe I am thinking of door making... 🙄
There’s a neat invention for carving called a knife.😊
@@LiveFree765 Once again, there are many tools that are used in woodcarving. There are numerous kinds, shapes and sizes of knifes (with straight and bended blades, straight and bended edges, one or two handles etc.), axes, chisels, gouges, adzes and so on designed for and used in woodcarving. (The forest axe is explicitly designed to be used is both woodcarving and woodchopping.)
In simple field bushcraft, axe and knife is mostly used.
Awesome, thanks for the comparison 👍
My pleasure, hope it helped!
This is great man. I sought precisely this content and you own it. Going hunting for that small axe now. And your cover.
Thats why the small forest axe is perhaps not a good choice. You can do some twist when impacting the log. to prevent the handle being damaged. But after some logs you will get wrist pains. The sfa is too much a cutting head. Other Scandinavian brands have a more universal head with the 19" handle. (less cutting some more splitting shape). Big logs need to be peeled like an onion with smaller axes. Do not try to split from the middle. And smaller axes try logs not greater then from wrist to elbow. Like the sharpener though. Great vid !
Thanks a bunch that’s some great insight!!
Great Channel🤙🏽🔥👊🏽
Thx so much!!
Can you make one for my scandy and how much
I have them available for the scandi, on the linked products for this vid / my website! Check it out!
I loved my Hultafors Forest axe. Best one iv ever had.
So it seems like the Scandinavian GB axe is a really good all rounder that can still split decent size logs
Great comparison!
Thanks Luke!! I think you made a great choice on the SFA!
@@TheBearEssentials I have the SFA! My favorite size as well, and such great quality. An axe mask and handle protector would be a nice upgrade! They are on my list!
Axes, splitting axes, hatchets
Do you think with gransfors NOW USING RECYCLED STEEL on their axes that they're inferior in quality to what they used to be?
Whats with that bullshit capitalization when you're asking a QUESTION?
they have BEEN using reclaimed "Mystery Metal" for many years....problem with ALL the swedes is that they have a bad tendency to temper them
TOO HARD....then, when you hit a small piece of gravel in the bark, or in the ground, they will chip...Council Tool uses 5160 Spring Steel for their axes and they are MUCH better than the swedes...I've had many of both....suit yourself.....OnWard.....
Do Marbles axes please 🙏
Very educational thank you
Your welcome thanks for watching Mark!
I’ve seen people flip the wood with axe inside and use the weight of the wood to cut through the logs. If that makes sense.
1. Swing
2. With axe imbedded in the log
lift and flip log so the weight and momentum of the log cuts the log
No way, really??? Bro everyone who knows how to split wood and is good at it does it.
Unless you brought a chainsaw with you.
Come to India and i chalenge you for survive 3 day in dangerous jungle of Chattisgarh 👍🏼
This sounds amazing ! I would love to go! Do you often camp there??
Hi good video thanks! How much do you charge for the small Forest sheath and sharpening stone?
Hey! Just $60 CAD right now.
Trying to keep them affordable. Handmade here in Canada 🇨🇦:)
Incredible content man, keep it up. Question, how do you feel about batoning? It seems to be a contentious topic for most, but I've found it incredibly effective, especially if you're using the right blade with a thick spine and a little softer steel, so it doesn't chip.
GBA make really HQ axes, with patina and tradition built in to them. But - both I and a number of axe you tubers - have had problems with chipping and folding edges. Often it is because of too thin and small of a bit angle. According to GBA (I had a long conversation the ohher day) the bit angle för the Small Forest axe is about 35 degrees, in the swell. Can't measure at the edge due to the convex edge. And for the Scandi it is 33-35 degrees.
So it happens that they grind the bit too much and too thin = chipping problems.
where did you bought those axe?
excellent Balance on the 19 inch axe.
Thanks for Sharing
Thanks for Sharing
If Oscar Isaac, Mark Ruffalo, and Pedro Pascal had a baby… This guy is the Child.
What’s to do if it gets rust on it?
Oil and sand it off is a good way to
I have one of these in Canley. Very good.
Right on, the splitter?
interested in your back sling and sheath with sharpener. more info please
Adler from Germany
Which one would you choose if you were a viking warrior?
Thank you for the video! I’ve been trying to decide between the splitting hatchet (48cm) and the small splitting axe (60cm) for campsite work. We mostly have larger pre split pieces of wood, or small rounds (8” or under) that need to be processed down a bit for fires. I’m leaning toward the 48cm for that reason as working on my knees and letting the heavy axe head do it’s thing seems ideal. I’m wondering if you have any input from your usage of the small splitting axe. Would a smaller version be viable, or do you see the extra handle length of the 60cm as something you wouldn’t want to let go of? Thanks again! -Andy
So a bigger axe splits a bigger log , well theres a thing
How does one obtain this kit and case?
When it comes to getting the wood perfectly cut so that it stands straight while you split do you use a chain saw or hand saw?
Chainsaw is the best, but I never bring one out in the backcountry. If I’m camping, I use my handsaw
Rìu có bán không
Which is the best axe for you?🤩
Hard to say between all 3 of these.
I use the small forest the most. But depending on the trip I’ll bring a diff one. I’m really liking the splitter nowadays
@@TheBearEssentials i will maybe buy the GB small forest axe…a lot say its probably the best bushcraft axe worldwide!🤙🏽✨🔥🪓
@@7Nowhere7 not a bad bet!
I make the mask + sharpener for it too if you’re ever interested shoot me a message. The one that comes with it is sufficient though for your first few years
These are $360 plus in nz. Not cheap or middle price by any measure.
Wowo that’s expensive! They’re under $200 here in Canada. Pretty standard price for this quality axe here.
For the axe sharpener. Shouldn't you only use it with oil?
Nope this one is a diamond grit, oil is mainly used on porous sharpening stones
@@TheBearEssentials Where can I get me a stone like the one you have in the video.
@@SPCxRecon you can get one from my website here if you want. bearessentialsoutdoors.ca/products/extra-axe-blade-sharpener-400-800-grit
@@TheBearEssentials Ty just ordered one
@@SPCxRecon Thx for the support and positive review Ashen, I'll send you a real beautiful sheath this evening, Just finishing the hardware on it today.
Great video