GG, that soft seal with high oil pressure is a no go. Those traditional seals were used for more than 70 years! Go with proven every time you can! Great intervention video! Congrats on the fix!
Gaskets or rtv, rarely both. In 1987 built a 440 bored 30 over, 2 piece rear main seal with side seals no rtv and still good today. Oil pan gaskets with windage tray and 7 quart oil pan, and no rtv.
Im glad you got it i watch nicks garage and he is the mopar man he always uses factory style rear main seals and he freaks out when people use rtv with gaskets and seals.
Put the old school seal in,no silicone. Nick's Garage did a whole video rear main seal on a big block rear main seal. Good for you folks! Happy you got the leak taken care of!
double up your header gaskets, they never leak, been on my big block for ten years, just check your header bolts every spring,, good luck, the crazy canuck, winnipeg canada
Great job, engine sounds really healthy, I'm a Chevy man, but when i was younger lots of my friends had big block mopars, oil leaks never seemed to be an issue with factory seals . Love watching your channel ❤❤❤
It's great that you've showed your work from beginning to end in the last two vids and not have broken the process down into multiple teaser vids as some do. Glad you figured it out and solved it with the two piece seal. Really a wise idea to have run the engine on the stand to find issues prior to installation. I had a 68' Charger in my youth but sadly, it only had a 318. It looked good though with being red, black interior and and a black vinyl top.
Seeing you stretch that seal so much and it didnt let go made me wonder if it could have stayed in one piece and streched over the crankshaft? But as so many already said, if the old way have worked for such long time there's no need going modern 🙂
use the old-style seal, they work. Sounds great, it's hard to sleep when you have a lot of money into something and its not working right, feels great to get those problems fixed.
Enjoy watching your figure out your problems. I was never a Mopar person I love SBC but I had friends who would trade their first born for a good 440 block. Keep up the good work
DON’T USE RTV ON A REAR MAIN SEAL!! That’s your problem. The RTV in the groove behind the seal has no way to get out and distorts the seal. Plus, that tiny bit at the butt joint makes it impossible to seal. You must pull the crank (it can be done without pulling pistons and heads) and clean every bit of sealant from behind the seal. Clean all surfaces with acetone. Install the new seal dry! Use a SMALL dab of Gasgasinch on the butt ends. I’ve been building engines since the’70s. Before RTV. In my opinion it’s a scourge on the automotive industry. Gasgacinch is great for oil pans and valve covers too.
I been meaning to say I have never seen a run in stand with the engine pointed that way, the brace you have the bell housing bolted to is used for a radiator support and the back end braces the Bell housing to the bottom, I guess if i works LOL. You're getting stuff done!
I've had great luck using copper exhaust gaskets along with 'ultra-copper' silicone. I also separate/cut header flange so header can tighten up to ports individually. Lastly, I use studs instead of bolts whenever possible(many times a combo of both studs and bolts). Studs are great to hang/align header flanges.
Old school, the best way! Before throwing gaskets and sealants at the header flange, check the flange at each tube and make sure they’re truly flat…I’ve found many are not right out the box! There’s a chunk of flange between the outer tubes and the inner set of tubes that can be removed, gives more flexibility for sealing. Good luck!
If you use that seal again (you have to cut it to put it on the crank right?) I would put a drop of Super Glue on the cut ends & glue them together on the crank 1st. It works surprisingly well. No oil on it of course. Then the rtv. 😉 Edit: nev mind. Danny.. "Sometimes ya just gotta go old school." 😎👍
I've had best luck using a 2 piece viton seal kit with a thin film of silicone on the cap surface, a dot in the corners, and thin film on the side seals to help seat the cap. Also, some aftermarket billet retainers have had the seal groove machined too deep. I would use an OEM seal retainer.
We found that some aftermarket rear-main seals had been off because of the age of the manufacturers tooling; also we also mandatory swipe pattern test on rear main seals and can add shimming under the outside perimeter of seal to to improve wipe the pattern/contact.
I have been working on a 383 with a friend of mine who is an excellent mechanic, and rebuilt many racing engines and other things, and we are restomoding a 1970 Dodge Challenger that has been a total pain in the ass and dealing with problem after problem with it. I hate Chrysler and Dodge products for a reason even though I know they made some really strong cars, I'm just a GM man by heart! We also had a rear seal leak, but the seal plate was broken and was the cause. We replaced that bad part and installed a two piece seal staggering the seal just a little bit on each side of the seem, and used RTV on it, and have not had any more problems with that yet.
I'm very curious if you didn't have the wrong 12 O'clock when you installed the rear main seal, it might have been on the side of when you installed the oil pan side 😊
Happy to see it's working at Nick's garage he had one big block Mopar he had to replace it a times it was because of a line horn issue when they honed lying horned the man's have a great day thanks to the
Gloves !!!! If it eats solvent you surely don't want to spray it on your skin so it is absorbed into the bloodstream. "Be kind to the old man you will one day be." - My grandfather
It couldn't hurt to go with the old school 2 piece seal - they have better rigid support and never were a problem. I wonder if the cylinder rust formed after the engine was built, before it ran on the engine stand. Somehow moisture (high humidity) built up on the dry cylinder? (Yeah, that cam gives it great sound and giddy up.)
When you cut those split seals you can trim them to get the proper gap, kind of how you would gap rings. so if it was pushing up then it needed to be trimmed. Measure the crank journal seal diameter mating surface then measure the cap and block journal seal surface diameter without the crank installed but with the seal instead and cap torqued, measure the inside surface/lip of the seal so its a couple thousands looser, trim the end of the seal to get the desired ID, apply RTV and install.
Had trouble on my last build, a 261 cu.in solid lifter dual carb six banger in a 53 chev truck. Oil pressure and then oil leaks with the new one piece seal. So I tore it all back apart, changed the pump, went back to the old school seal. Been running it now for three years, problems solved. So stuff happens as they say, I would go old school and tear the whole thing down and re-do.
There is no need for RTV anywhere on that engine, it will always end up in your pickup screen and will make future repairs more difficult. Good quality gaskets and proper torqueing procedures will work just fine
The rust is just surface because of no lubricant on the walls you gotta remember thats bare metal it rust easy just wipe it with a clean blue paper towel with brake cleaner and oil it down and next time you run it YOU MUST put it under a load those rings need to bite otherwise you will have oil burning and blow by.
Over on nicks garage channel he’s a Mopar guy and he revealed a 440 and it literally leaked from the same exact spot five times he had to tear that thing back apart and he says that’s happened over the years several times I have no clue why but I hope yours is easier to figure out than his was
2 piece hard shell soft lip felpro seals is the way to go I put mine in after dipped in oil I never use RTV on main seals and would never use the one piece soft seal.
Just send an Oil Sample out at a heavy equipment store like a Komatsu or CAT store if it has no glycol in it you will know. Its condensation most likely.
Very strange leak as you both are so serious on the mount,..it is almost like the crankcase compression had pushed the oil out at the seal,..but this would not be the case cos everything is new and crankcase ventilation has probably been sufficient,..ok silly suggestion from me, Maybe the oldskool seal do it better,..wish you luck
GG, that soft seal with high oil pressure is a no go. Those traditional seals were used for more than 70 years! Go with proven every time you can! Great intervention video! Congrats on the fix!
Gaskets or rtv, rarely both. In 1987 built a 440 bored 30 over, 2 piece rear main seal with side seals no rtv and still good today. Oil pan gaskets with windage tray and 7 quart oil pan, and no rtv.
Im glad you got it i watch nicks garage and he is the mopar man he always uses factory style rear main seals and he freaks out when people use rtv with gaskets and seals.
Put the old school seal in,no silicone. Nick's Garage did a whole video rear main seal on a big block rear main seal.
Good for you folks! Happy you got the leak taken care of!
Nick put a piece of rope in a leaky seal 426
double up your header gaskets, they never leak, been on my big block for ten years, just check your header bolts every spring,, good luck, the crazy canuck, winnipeg canada
Great job, engine sounds really healthy, I'm a Chevy man, but when i was younger lots of my friends had big block mopars, oil leaks never seemed to be an issue with factory seals . Love watching your channel ❤❤❤
It's great that you've showed your work from beginning to end in the last two vids and not have broken the process down into multiple teaser vids as some do. Glad you figured it out and solved it with the two piece seal. Really a wise idea to have run the engine on the stand to find issues prior to installation. I had a 68' Charger in my youth but sadly, it only had a 318. It looked good though with being red, black interior and and a black vinyl top.
Old school seal has been working for 60+ years!
Olivia knows that a two piece is better than a one piece 👙🩱😂
I Agree with you totally!😊
Always had good luck with the 2 piece seals been a mopar guy for over 30 yrs and always used the mopar seals
Wow!....you guys use more RTV on one engine than I use in a whole year.
Pitch the fancy aftermarket stuff and put the factory one back in...
Seeing you stretch that seal so much and it didnt let go made me wonder if it could have stayed in one piece and streched over the crankshaft? But as so many already said, if the old way have worked for such long time there's no need going modern 🙂
I said old school when you were trying to decide which way to go with the rear main seal.
Glad we were both right, good job.
use the old-style seal, they work. Sounds great, it's hard to sleep when you have a lot of money into something and its not working right, feels great to get those problems fixed.
Enjoy watching your figure out your problems. I was never a Mopar person I love SBC but I had friends who would trade their first born for a good 440 block. Keep up the good work
DON’T USE RTV ON A REAR MAIN SEAL!! That’s your problem. The RTV in the groove behind the seal has no way to get out and distorts the seal. Plus, that tiny bit at the butt joint makes it impossible to seal.
You must pull the crank (it can be done without pulling pistons and heads) and clean every bit of sealant from behind the seal. Clean all surfaces with acetone. Install the new seal dry! Use a SMALL dab of Gasgasinch on the butt ends.
I’ve been building engines since the’70s. Before RTV. In my opinion it’s a scourge on the automotive industry. Gasgacinch is great for oil pans and valve covers too.
If you have trouble with the rubber sliding into position, use Isopropyl Alcohol as a lubricant. A tip from a windshield installer from way back.
Hylomar is real nice on the halves as well
I been meaning to say I have never seen a run in stand with the engine pointed that way, the brace you have the bell housing bolted to is used for a radiator support and the back end braces the Bell housing to the bottom, I guess if i works LOL. You're getting stuff done!
You are going to have to loosen the mains to put the new seal in anyway.
maybe you shouldn't of put the RTV on the seal., looks like it leaked around the RTV.
What a relief! I was so worried about that leak. I have full confidence in you make this Mopar something great!
TOO MUCH RTV!!!
Forgot the WAY
Two piece and clock it.
Old School always rules! 👍🇨🇦
Amen brother
Put the old school seal in this time. Tried and true for 50+ years..
Great Job with the leak guys! She sounds awesome! Love the lumpy cam.
Good deal on fix and new shiny stuff isn't always the best
I've had great luck using copper exhaust gaskets along with 'ultra-copper' silicone. I also separate/cut header flange so header can tighten up to ports individually. Lastly, I use studs instead of bolts whenever possible(many times a combo of both studs and bolts). Studs are great to hang/align header flanges.
Old school, the best way! Before throwing gaskets and sealants at the header flange, check the flange at each tube and make sure they’re truly flat…I’ve found many are not right out the box! There’s a chunk of flange between the outer tubes and the inner set of tubes that can be removed, gives more flexibility for sealing. Good luck!
Nice job Danny I can really appreciate your patience!
old is gold,never had a prob with a 2 piece seal
Condensation from the engine not being run for very long. Sounds fantastic , happy engine tunes.
If you use that seal again (you have to cut it to put it on the crank right?) I would put a drop of Super Glue on the cut ends & glue them together on the crank 1st. It works surprisingly well. No oil on it of course. Then the rtv. 😉
Edit: nev mind. Danny..
"Sometimes ya just gotta go old school." 😎👍
I would use the two-piece seal just put some silicone where the seals meet each other.
I've had best luck using a 2 piece viton seal kit with a thin film of silicone on the cap surface, a dot in the corners, and thin film on the side seals to help seat the cap. Also, some aftermarket billet retainers have had the seal groove machined too deep. I would use an OEM seal retainer.
We found that some aftermarket rear-main seals had been off because of the age of the manufacturers tooling; also we also mandatory swipe pattern test on rear main seals and can add shimming under the outside perimeter of seal to to improve wipe the pattern/contact.
I have been working on a 383 with a friend of mine who is an excellent mechanic, and rebuilt many racing engines and other things, and we are restomoding a 1970 Dodge Challenger that has been a total pain in the ass and dealing with problem after problem with it.
I hate Chrysler and Dodge products for a reason even though I know they made some really strong cars, I'm just a GM man by heart!
We also had a rear seal leak, but the seal plate was broken and was the cause.
We replaced that bad part and installed a two piece seal staggering the seal just a little bit on each side of the seem, and used RTV on it, and have not had any more problems with that yet.
Awesome sounding engine 🤘
My gosh that big block sounds good!!
Great Job you two!!
Remflex hedder gaskets are great
Good work man.
sounds really good.
The only way to learn new things is by trial and error!! Things could always be worse.. youll figure it out! 🤟🏻
Rust on the cylinder is probably from lack of lubricating it when being rebuilt.
Nice job. Sounds great
Excellent ! The Mope sounds Awesome 👌
great job guys! just watched all the engine videos!
Great job, POS 1 piece seal
Right. Don't mess with success.
Congratulations Danny and Olivia on the seal. Thanks for sharing!
💯👍👊
Outstanding! Onward and upward!
That carb appears to be working great!
Looks like it sounds better 💪🙏✌️awesome♥️
Happy to hear the 2 piece worked out. 🍻
Perfect wrap up Danny! Happy you don't have to tear that engine apart 🍻🤙
Well done.
That thing sounds good man it sure does
Glad to see the windage tray, I missed that when you built the engine .
Nicks garage just had similar issue. Several remain seals tried. Believe he ended up using old rope seal to fix problems.
Awesome Video!
I've lost sleep over coming up with a solution 😮
You should make a jig out of some metal stock run the bolts to the seal some studs and just slowly move it out
New carb......Excellant !
I have loosened up all the mains -didn't remove- any but the last one (Chevy) but the seal was a 2 peice. Good luck
Watch Nick's Garage for advice.
Nick fought and fought a rear main seal. He finally fixed it.
The crank was junk once crank was replaced it had no more leaks @@timothyhays1817
Definitely don't watch Nicks for advice..
I feel so much better about that I know y'all were highly upset with it and I don't blame you a bit hit sounds real awesome
That old school stuff worked for many years! That new seal just had too many 'vectors for failure', in my opinion.
Factory style 2 piece. I raced big block mopars for years and the rear main seal was never a problem.
This is not fuel injection Pump that carburetor, and then started. it idles and sounds so GOOD. You guys make a good team
I'm very curious if you didn't have the wrong 12 O'clock when you installed the rear main seal, it might have been on the side of when you installed the oil pan side 😊
Happy to see it's working at Nick's garage he had one big block Mopar he had to replace it a times it was because of a line horn issue when they honed lying horned the man's have a great day thanks to the
It was a bad crankshaft not the linebore .
Gloves !!!! If it eats solvent you surely don't want to spray it on your skin so it is absorbed into the bloodstream. "Be kind to the old man you will one day be." - My grandfather
I really really hope, that the block Mopar doin’ it very very well, and good for the Charger💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
i hade my fingers crossed so tightly hoping for no leaks, YAAAA!!!!
It couldn't hurt to go with the old school 2 piece seal - they have better rigid support and never were a problem. I wonder if the cylinder rust formed after the engine was built, before it ran on the engine stand. Somehow moisture (high humidity) built up on the dry cylinder? (Yeah, that cam gives it great sound and giddy up.)
I would go back to the old school two-piece.
When you cut those split seals you can trim them to get the proper gap, kind of how you would gap rings. so if it was pushing up then it needed to be trimmed. Measure the crank journal seal diameter mating surface then measure the cap and block journal seal surface diameter without the crank installed but with the seal instead and cap torqued, measure the inside surface/lip of the seal so its a couple thousands looser, trim the end of the seal to get the desired ID, apply RTV and install.
The surface rust is just from the moisture in the air. U have no worries there
I understand. You have to do what is best for you. The chicken box is nice and you will definitely not have a problem finding a buyer.
Had trouble on my last build, a 261 cu.in solid lifter dual carb six banger in a 53 chev truck. Oil pressure and then oil leaks with the new one piece seal. So I tore it all back apart, changed the pump, went back to the old school seal. Been running it now for three years, problems solved. So stuff happens as they say, I would go old school and tear the whole thing down and re-do.
Two piece neoprene seal, didn’t see any silicone on bottom of seal cap?? Love following you both👍👍👍👍👍👍
One little bitty grain of sand in the RYV can cause this, lol thanks BigAl California
There is no need for RTV anywhere on that engine, it will always end up in your pickup screen and will make future repairs more difficult. Good quality gaskets and proper torqueing procedures will work just fine
Pull the plug on that cylinder and scope down in there to just make sure the head gasket isnt leaking. If not. Run it lol
DUDE ! ! ! ! ! setup a shop vac for water and suck all the coolant out of the lower hose. P E A C E !
❤ Nice..
You did what I would have done but I would have put a thermostat just to check your temperature
That new-fangled stuff never works out. Go with the factory rope seal and the factory block and you'll be fine.
Have You Guys tried calling Steve Dulcich for his opinion? He's built a lot of BB Mopars, maybe he has a solution?👍👍👍
Yes sir 👍
I would try the stiffer two piece seal. I would also use less RTV. There shouldn't be rust in there. Is that a bad head gasket?
The rust is just surface because of no lubricant on the walls you gotta remember thats bare metal it rust easy just wipe it with a clean blue paper towel with brake cleaner and oil it down and next time you run it YOU MUST put it under a load those rings need to bite otherwise you will have oil burning and blow by.
Never had a leak with factory seal
And you weren't supposed to use former gasket on the seal to put it in the groove.
Over on nicks garage channel he’s a Mopar guy and he revealed a 440 and it literally leaked from the same exact spot five times he had to tear that thing back apart and he says that’s happened over the years several times I have no clue why but I hope yours is easier to figure out than his was
Nice Job you 2 I think it just had 2 Much Silicone on the 1st seal and caused it to leak
2 piece hard shell soft lip felpro seals is the way to go I put mine in after dipped in oil I never use RTV on main seals and would never use the one piece soft seal.
Use a stock retainer and a good felpro seal the brown one
Did you have any crank case ventilation via valve cover breather
Remflex header gaskets will fix you up!!
The RTV keeps the seal from spinning
Check a standard crank some have Chris Cross lines where the seal seats
Just send an Oil Sample out at a heavy equipment store like a Komatsu or CAT store if it has no glycol in it you will know. Its condensation most likely.
Very strange leak as you both are so serious on the mount,..it is almost like the crankcase compression had pushed the oil out at the seal,..but this would not be the case cos everything is new and crankcase ventilation has probably been sufficient,..ok silly suggestion from me, Maybe the oldskool seal do it better,..wish you luck