These fans are welded flat toroidal armature the use a flat magnet with N, S, N, S all around the magnets. Remember the bigger the motor, the more amps it draws cold., then drops fast as it heats up. Relays are marked with number next to terminals and usually have schematic on the side. Key on goes to terminal 85 split to each. Terminal 86 goes to temp switch. (Note) If LS swap, talk to PCM programmer to turn-on two drivers at your choice of on/off for each. They supply ground only to the fan relays & temps can be set for different degrees. Place fuse near battery and supply both relays on 30. Terminal 87a is off when de-energized but fans go to 87. Place grounds on clean frame metal, star washers & dielectric grease. Metal star washer dig into chassis ground & the grease keeps moisture, water and corrosion over time. It can be used on bulbs, sensors, all connectors that create high resistance and circuit failures. Hope all works well for all. Lessons learned decades ago. Certified Automotive ASE Master since 1978, retired.
It would be wise to consider your alternator output when calculating the fan power draw, but you may not need to upgrade. I had already upgraded to a Suburban Alternator prior to doing the fans. I believe it was the 140 amp unit, so I have had no problem with the fans getting enough power.
Lol I can’t help but laugh at your eyes let that pipe cool down a bit homie! Ahh just kidding but defiantly good info and do appreciate your thoroughness! Very good video man! What wire did you run the manual switch from cause I’m trying to have both all’s the thermostat and e to flip a switch when I want also? Thanks for the vid!
Yep lol. . . sorry. In some of my earlier videos I had a problem with making crazy eyes at the camera. For the manual switch It's just an extra ground that runs to the trigger wire off the temp switch. That way when I hit the manual switch it grounds out just like when the temp switch reaches operating temperature. . .which turns on the fans.
hi good fans use , average 13 amps & high performance 20amps each . An 80w 6 amp fan is barely enough to be an add on acces fan . Remember this can cost an engine if it overheats . fans by comparison are cheap .
You're exactly correct. These 80w fans aren't really sufficient. . .I didn't realize that when I installed them. On short trips it hasn't been much of a problem, but in the summer with A/C on, and sitting in traffic they definitely can't keep up. I'm going to swap them out with higher wattage fans before this summer.
I'm looking at the fan you have and I have the exact same one can I use my stock three wire system to this two wire motor? any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you
Best bet is to try to find a wiring diagram for your car. Most likely one is a high speed, and one is a low speed. However, If you already have electric fans (which you must, if there's factory wiring) I would suggest replacing with the correct fan for your car, and not swapping to a generic. There is no benefit, and you'll likely lose the ability for two speed fan operation, and possibly your AC fan trigger.
@@VHickleGarage thank you sir for your response I actually did the latter which was the go and get knock off OEM with the three wire setup I appreciate your response again thank you
Just never use those plastic zip ties that run thru the radiator itself. When you hit bumps. It will pull down on the fins then crack them. Boom you need a new radiator. Aluminum is better.. But. You really need a mounting bracket that sits off the rad.
I used the cheap plastic ties and so far no problems there. I do need to fab up a proper shroud though. Between the low power fans and no shroud it will overheat sitting in traffic with the AC running on a hot day. When I get some better fans I'll work on a good shroud and better mounts.
We sell much higher wattage electric fans than the 80w in this video at www.americanvolt.com/collections/electric-fans which includes radiator mounting kits. Various thermostat switch turn-on temps and NPT thread-in sizes available as well.
I believe there was a slight improvement in mileage, but I haven't done any highway trips since i installed these. I need to go bac and inpt all my receipts to see if I can empirically show an increase in MPG. It being quieter when the fans aren't running is nice. The bad part is in the Florida summer heat these 2 fans don't move quite enough air, so I can't sit in traffic with the AC running or it will overheat. I plan to get some higher wattage fans before next summer, as I really like having AC lol.
WRIGHT ON VID Mr. HICKLE. WOULD BE GREAT VID IF A WIRING DIAGRAM WAS IN UR KEY MOMENTS. ALSO, WHAT IS THE ON/OFF TEMP. OF UR TEMP SENSOR? DID THIS INFO COME W/UR FAN KIT? BEST, G E.
The on/off temp is based on the gold temp switch that I installed in my water pump. I believe it was on at 185 off at 200. I've been meaning to get a cool temp range switch, but I usually just manually turn the fans on as soon as I start the car. The 80w fans with no shroud don't actually cool as well as I would like. I'm planning to upgrade to better fans soon.
I'm new at this and trying to wire 4 fans on my can am for passengers. If each fan pulls 7amps during normal operation, you're using a 50 amp relay and 30 amp fuse, is that excessive using that high relay and amp?
Yes what I'm using should be excessive for the amp draw of the fans. I would however recommend better fans that what I used. They aren't enough to keep the engine cool AND run the AC while sitting in traffic. You should be fine to use fuses and relays closer to the expected amp draw of the fans. I'm no electrical engineer but I believe the fans can consume more amps on startup and when everything gets hot, so you always want to be a little above what you expect.
I got the exact same set up in my 1970 Chevy C 10 pick up I never had no problems until I added electric fans why do you think my battery dies overnight immediately? Thank you very much
If your battery dies overnight, then something is drawing power. I'd start with a test light and see if any part of the fan wiring is hot when it shouldn't be.
@Joe Salazar. I love this era of trucks and electric cooling fans are great! He is right to use a test light on the battery connector off with a reliable test light installed. Don’t use a digital or “LED” test lamp but a simple peanut bulb sold as a 194. It takes 0.25 amps to brightly lite up. My guess is if this happened after a fan install is your power wire to the relay is hot with key off. If so, find a spot on the fuse box that is hot with key on & marked “ACC”. Relays are standardized an marked on relay with numbers & diagram. Terminal 85 should be hot with key on and jumped to both relays. The power is terminal 30 and 87a is closed when off. 87 should power fans. Make sure to test amperage from fused battery source so they do stop in traffic. Fan #1 & #2 should add up to less than 10 amps each, use a 30 amp fuse from battery. Cold copper has low resistance and creates a “Amperage In-Rush” higher than 7.5 amps. For on/off protection use a 30 amp fuse, 10 AGW wire then spit at relay at 30. Using 14 AWG to fans is fine as they are short, but clean paint, grease and use “Star Washers” sold at home improvement stores to complete ground. I am a firm believer in dielectric grease and cost $5.89 for tube at home stores in the auto section. It keeps moisture, water and air from rusting or corroding connectors for years. Best of luck! Certified Automotive ASE Master tech since 1978, retired but working on my build. Just more tools!
The fans are still working. . .However the cheap fans I used aren't really sufficient. In the FL Summer Heat, with the AC on, it's too much for them and will start to overheat unless the car is moving. I need to get some bigger, better fans. . . Ideally I'll get some 2-speed units to replace the cheapies with. I'll probably deal with that more towards the spring once it starts getting warmer again.
@@VHickleGarage Just get another cheap 16" pusher fan to go in front of the radiator /condenser. If you have room it's a simple addition, and was actually how some luxury car makers did it years ago to overcome overheating in traffic.
@@edjackson4389 That's a good idea. I've been considering that option. I need to decide between that or better two speed fans soon since it will be crazy hot again in FL in no time.
For the circuit I just used the instructions from the relay kit. One kit for each fan. The only modification was I added a toggle switch to be able to manually ground out the temp switch. That allows for manual fan control by closing the temp switch circuit, just like when it reaches the trigger temp of the switch. Oh, and I also added fuses in-line between the relays and the battery, which is highly recommended!
You are spot on. . . They keep everything cool, so long as the AC is off. I need to order some better fans to swap them out. Fortunately with the way I installed, swapping fans will be easy.
![Chlöe - Shake (Feat. Jeremih) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aDs_1ufpfv8/mqdefault.jpg)
These fans are welded flat toroidal armature the use a flat magnet with N, S, N, S all around the magnets. Remember the bigger the motor, the more amps it draws cold., then drops fast as it heats up. Relays are marked with number next to terminals and usually have schematic on the side. Key on goes to terminal 85 split to each. Terminal 86 goes to temp switch. (Note) If LS swap, talk to PCM programmer to turn-on two drivers at your choice of on/off for each. They supply ground only to the fan relays & temps can be set for different degrees.
Place fuse near battery and supply both relays on 30. Terminal 87a is off when de-energized but fans go to 87. Place grounds on clean frame metal, star washers & dielectric grease. Metal star washer dig into chassis ground & the grease keeps moisture, water and corrosion over time. It can be used on bulbs, sensors, all connectors that create high resistance and circuit failures. Hope all works well for all. Lessons learned decades ago. Certified Automotive ASE Master since 1978, retired.
Its not the wiring that scares me, its you eye balls!
dude quit crazy eyeing the camera lol
Lol Sorry, bad habit, I've gotten a little better with it.
@@VHickleGarage lol
😂😂😂
Don't change it. Make it your cool feature 👌
LoL! 😂 too funny. But the video is good and informative, and like another person here said- make it your thing 😅 thanks for the video!
Damm what this dude on 😂
I’ve heard a alternator upgrade would be necessary. Any truth to that?
It would be wise to consider your alternator output when calculating the fan power draw, but you may not need to upgrade. I had already upgraded to a Suburban Alternator prior to doing the fans. I believe it was the 140 amp unit, so I have had no problem with the fans getting enough power.
Lol I can’t help but laugh at your eyes let that pipe cool down a bit homie! Ahh just kidding but defiantly good info and do appreciate your thoroughness! Very good video man! What wire did you run the manual switch from cause I’m trying to have both all’s the thermostat and e to flip a switch when I want also? Thanks for the vid!
Yep lol. . . sorry. In some of my earlier videos I had a problem with making crazy eyes at the camera. For the manual switch It's just an extra ground that runs to the trigger wire off the temp switch. That way when I hit the manual switch it grounds out just like when the temp switch reaches operating temperature. . .which turns on the fans.
Good video and thanks for sharing.
Why does he widen his eyes like that ?
Are you looking at me or her cause your starting to freak me out . Lol jk jk I couldn't resist
Lmfao
hi good fans use , average 13 amps & high performance 20amps each . An 80w 6 amp fan is barely enough to be an add on acces fan .
Remember this can cost an engine if it overheats . fans by comparison are cheap .
You're exactly correct. These 80w fans aren't really sufficient. . .I didn't realize that when I installed them. On short trips it hasn't been much of a problem, but in the summer with A/C on, and sitting in traffic they definitely can't keep up. I'm going to swap them out with higher wattage fans before this summer.
I'm looking at the fan you have and I have the exact same one
can I use my stock three wire system to this two wire motor? any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you
Best bet is to try to find a wiring diagram for your car. Most likely one is a high speed, and one is a low speed.
However, If you already have electric fans (which you must, if there's factory wiring) I would suggest replacing with the correct fan for your car, and not swapping to a generic. There is no benefit, and you'll likely lose the ability for two speed fan operation, and possibly your AC fan trigger.
@@VHickleGarage thank you sir for your response I actually did the latter which was the go and get knock off OEM with the three wire setup I appreciate your response again thank you
@@denniscampbell9376 You're welcome. That was definitely the better choice. . and exactly what I would have done.
Just never use those plastic zip ties that run thru the radiator itself. When you hit bumps. It will pull down on the fins then crack them. Boom you need a new radiator. Aluminum is better..
But. You really need a mounting bracket that sits off the rad.
I used the cheap plastic ties and so far no problems there. I do need to fab up a proper shroud though. Between the low power fans and no shroud it will overheat sitting in traffic with the AC running on a hot day. When I get some better fans I'll work on a good shroud and better mounts.
We sell much higher wattage electric fans than the 80w in this video at www.americanvolt.com/collections/electric-fans which includes radiator mounting kits. Various thermostat switch turn-on temps and NPT thread-in sizes available as well.
I"ll take a look. These 80w fans aren't really up to the task of keeping the engine cool and running the ac in the FL summer heat.
I’m working on a 94 GMC Jimmy. Wondering what benefits you are seeing from this mod.
I believe there was a slight improvement in mileage, but I haven't done any highway trips since i installed these. I need to go bac and inpt all my receipts to see if I can empirically show an increase in MPG. It being quieter when the fans aren't running is nice. The bad part is in the Florida summer heat these 2 fans don't move quite enough air, so I can't sit in traffic with the AC running or it will overheat. I plan to get some higher wattage fans before next summer, as I really like having AC lol.
WRIGHT ON VID Mr. HICKLE. WOULD BE GREAT VID IF A WIRING DIAGRAM WAS IN UR KEY MOMENTS. ALSO, WHAT IS THE ON/OFF TEMP. OF UR TEMP SENSOR? DID THIS INFO COME W/UR FAN KIT? BEST, G E.
The on/off temp is based on the gold temp switch that I installed in my water pump. I believe it was on at 185 off at 200. I've been meaning to get a cool temp range switch, but I usually just manually turn the fans on as soon as I start the car. The 80w fans with no shroud don't actually cool as well as I would like. I'm planning to upgrade to better fans soon.
I'm new at this and trying to wire 4 fans on my can am for passengers. If each fan pulls 7amps during normal operation, you're using a 50 amp relay and 30 amp fuse, is that excessive using that high relay and amp?
Yes what I'm using should be excessive for the amp draw of the fans. I would however recommend better fans that what I used. They aren't enough to keep the engine cool AND run the AC while sitting in traffic. You should be fine to use fuses and relays closer to the expected amp draw of the fans. I'm no electrical engineer but I believe the fans can consume more amps on startup and when everything gets hot, so you always want to be a little above what you expect.
I lasted 22 seconds into the video .. The wide eyeball stare got me scared.
I got the exact same set up in my 1970 Chevy C 10 pick up I never had no problems until I added electric fans why do you think my battery dies overnight immediately? Thank you very much
If your battery dies overnight, then something is drawing power. I'd start with a test light and see if any part of the fan wiring is hot when it shouldn't be.
@@VHickleGarage thank u 🙏 very much for the fast reply brother
@Joe Salazar. I love this era of trucks and electric cooling fans are great! He is right to use a test light on the battery connector off with a reliable test light installed. Don’t use a digital or “LED” test lamp but a simple peanut bulb sold as a 194. It takes 0.25 amps to brightly lite up. My guess is if this happened after a fan install is your power wire to the relay is hot with key off. If so, find a spot on the fuse box that is hot with key on & marked “ACC”. Relays are standardized an marked on relay with numbers & diagram. Terminal 85 should be hot with key on and jumped to both relays. The power is terminal 30 and 87a is closed when off. 87 should power fans. Make sure to test amperage from fused battery source so they do stop in traffic. Fan #1 & #2 should add up to less than 10 amps each, use a 30 amp fuse from battery. Cold copper has low resistance and creates a “Amperage In-Rush” higher than 7.5 amps. For on/off protection use a 30 amp fuse, 10 AGW wire then spit at relay at 30. Using 14 AWG to fans is fine as they are short, but clean paint, grease and use “Star Washers” sold at home improvement stores to complete ground. I am a firm believer in dielectric grease and cost $5.89 for tube at home stores in the auto section. It keeps moisture, water and air from rusting or corroding connectors for years. Best of luck!
Certified Automotive ASE Master tech since 1978, retired but working on my build. Just more tools!
can i use toggle switch with just a fuse ?
If you do it will most likely burn up. Something drawing as many amps as fans require a relay. You can then use a toggle switch to trigger the relay
how did they hold up?
The fans are still working. . .However the cheap fans I used aren't really sufficient. In the FL Summer Heat, with the AC on, it's too much for them and will start to overheat unless the car is moving. I need to get some bigger, better fans. . . Ideally I'll get some 2-speed units to replace the cheapies with. I'll probably deal with that more towards the spring once it starts getting warmer again.
@@VHickleGarage Just get another cheap 16" pusher fan to go in front of the radiator /condenser. If you have room it's a simple addition, and was actually how some luxury car makers did it years ago to overcome overheating in traffic.
@@edjackson4389 That's a good idea. I've been considering that option. I need to decide between that or better two speed fans soon since it will be crazy hot again in FL in no time.
I can’t hardly watch the video because the camera keeps zooming in and out. Please re edit this and re upload
Good content, but disable the autofocus on your camera..... It really brings down the quality of yor content.... My 2-cents
What's with the spooky eyes😂😂😂weird
Circuit isnt explaind
For the circuit I just used the instructions from the relay kit. One kit for each fan. The only modification was I added a toggle switch to be able to manually ground out the temp switch. That allows for manual fan control by closing the temp switch circuit, just like when it reaches the trigger temp of the switch. Oh, and I also added fuses in-line between the relays and the battery, which is highly recommended!
Those fans are garbage period $20 Ebay junk
You are spot on. . . They keep everything cool, so long as the AC is off. I need to order some better fans to swap them out. Fortunately with the way I installed, swapping fans will be easy.
Crazy eyes lol
เสียเวลาดุจิงๆ
Whats up with your eyes buddy?? Just a little creepy thats all...
Aye I said the same thing it’s probably the meth 😂😂😂