Plastic Versus Metal Miniatures
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- Опубликовано: 15 июл 2024
- There are a lot of differences between plastic and metal wargaming miniatures, and Atom tries to help you figure out what's best for you.
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I prefer metal, the little ends break off less often. Besides the metal models hurt your opponents more when you throw them.
You should really consider reading an audio book or something like that, such a pleasant voice!
I was about to suggest the same thing...very soothing.
And audio book of Little Wars, maybe?
Love that you finger quoted "pro painted" as most the eBay "pro painted" stuff can be better described as poorly painted.
if someone pays you for a mini you painted, then technically you're a pro lol.
If someone pays you for the paint job, then you're a pro painter. Most of the time with the stuff on ebay you're not paying for the paint, in fact you might even pay a bit extra to NOT have it painted if you could.
I thought "pro painted" referred to going to the store and getting a professional paint stripping chemical...
Plastic? Metal? Pah, filthy casuals. You ain't a true a tabletop gamer 'til you've done gone whittled a squad of Space Marines from fine maple spruce...
Gareth Topping If you have the dedication to carve your own models from wood, miniwar game companies would clamor to hire a special edition release of spruce models. cha-ching
Gareth Topping That not a bad idea Wood models would look real cool for the soldier
Pfft. Spruce. I prefer to work in granites with an MOHS rating of 9.1 or higher.
You could probably make them with a laser. I don't think anyone is willing to pay for how many man-hours of work is put into hand carving detailed miniature models.
XD Haha! This is great!
I prefer dangerous lead based pewter miniatures. I'm old school like that.
Dave R lead models were far superior to the brittle pewter stuff that came later. I still have plenty of them, just wash your hands when you're done working with them.
TheAegisClaw Wash the hands after hobby time??? Pfffttt... 'If you can't stand the lead dust, then get outta the nerd bunker'.... lol :)
TBH, from my point of view, the change from lead pewter to crap pewter was bullshit anyways. A very high percentage of my countrymen get exposed to more lead at the range than they will ever get in the most well used gaming room.
The hell of it is, almost immediately there was an amendment that allowed for "Collectible Items" (e.g., miniatures) to keep on with the same amount of lead. However, due to inertia, by the time it came around and got passed most studios (Partha, etc.) had switched to "pewter" and kept on that way. Reaper tried to reintroduce a high-lead content line with the P65 line in the late/mid 2000s and they were very affordable and quite nice (although just re-casts of what they were already making) but they discontinued that line. I am not a huge fan of Reaper Bones. However, the "Nolzur's Miniatures" that WotC commissioned from Wizkids aren't bad.
You see, that's it isn't? I like metal. I prefer it. But I don't want lead. NO LEAD.
I glue a nickel under the base of plastic models. gives them a pleasant weight and keeps them from tipping over, too.
Nice idea!
Daniel Johnson I used to base plastic's on 2p piece as it's the same size as the old gw bases, and added a bit of heft.
+Daniel Johnson cool idea, i may have to try that!
Daniel Johnson I'm using metal washers now. Awkward terrain is easier due to the 'hole' in the washer and it's cheaper on a whole I find. I have too many washers and so few models.
A nickel under every GW model? What, are you made out of gold?
The biggest perk of metal armies is that if you can’t beat your opponent’s army with them you can always beat your opponent with them. But seriously don’t hit people it’s bad.
Listening to that, I was reliving my childhood Abaddon trauma. The frickin arms just refused to stay on that thing.
Definitely prefer plastic models. Only problem I've had is buying them off eBay, it's hard to strip them without damaging the detail. Metal models are much easier to strip and repaint
Retarded Batman Try diluting dettol for the stripping. Works for me.
biostrip20 if you can get it , amazing!
SadisticSlayer thanks! I tried looking online for good chemicals that won't damage the model but everyone is American so I couldn't find any of the recommended products in Australia
Believe me, try Listerine and a toothbrush. Just leave the component inside the liquid for about 4 or 5 hours. The plastic isn't damaged at all and you get a nice mint miniature.
I see what you did there, lol. Prime dad joke ;)
A very solid review.
One thing you didn't mention - and that's the most important factor imho - is that standard spray undercoat sticks to plastic much better than to metal (or resin for that matter). That's the second thing (in addition to weight) that contributes to the metal models being so prone to paint chipping.
Nowadays, I simply don't paint metal models, ever - just for that reason: I simply can't stand the fact that the paint job that I put so much effort into can (and will) be ruined so easily.
I have found Rustoleum Painter's Touch series works on all materials as a primer. Just make sure you get the flat/matte finish can.
It's true: primer sticks to plastic much better. Thanks for watching!
I prefer metal ones for the feel but, something really boring is when you have to transport them! I like to magnetize my army, on plastic models you can place a single magnet with a drop of ca and you are good to go, on meteal ones sometime I had to place up to 4 magnet and I always use some green stuff to build some more area for the glue to grip otherwise it just snap off when you pick the mini up :'( Great video as always mate
You're right: plastic models can frequently be easier to transport. Thanks for watching!
I've had the opposite problem with fine parts on plastic models extremely prone to snapping off during transport.
Really great unbiased video.
Personally I love plastic for all my new stuff as I find it easier to paint, it doesn’t chip and it’s more detailed.
I love metal models for older systems though. I have a soft spot for finding metal Lord of the Rings figures on eBay, stripping and painting them. Big nostalgic feel.
Cool video man, and a great discussion topic. Here are a few thoughts from me.
Metal:
> old, pre-pewter models are much easier to work so those retro-projects have an advantage here (these are lead alloys, but the lead ban was a result of tetraethyl lead petroleum).
> When sticking 2 flat surfaces together score lines into each surface to give a rougher face that cyanoacrylate (superglue) with get a better hold on.
> Have high and medium-low viscosity superglue... use the high for large area gluing. Use the medium-low to run additional adhesive into complex or large joints once initially fixed to further strengthen the bond.
> Use superglue accelerant if you find it hard to get a joint to bond.
> Use pins and/or epoxy for base attachments on large / top heavy models.
> Large, complex joints can de stuck with composite adhesive techiques, use superglue for a outer, quick attachment and epoxy for a strong, inner core. Add pins to taste.
Plastic:
> Have superglue to hand as well as plastic cement.
> Weight bases to improve stability on models - less likely to fall over and off the table
General:
> I always keep a couple of old, blunt craft knives for clean up work. I use these to get a smooth finish on metal, plastic and resin models as you can apply more force without tearing the surface up (the GW mould line tool is designed on this principle).
> Strength in numbers: you will get stronger joins doing multiple, small pins rather than a single large one, particularly on parts that have a low rotational resistance when assembled e.g. ball joints.
> Oblique pins aligned against any potential plane of movement are much stronger than ones aligned in a perpendicular orientation.
> Pin difficult joints after assembly.... sometimes its difficult to pin a joint before assembly. If you don't mind drilling a small hole through the exterior it can be easier to drill a pin in after a part is glued and fill the small hole with your favoured modelling putty.
Very good points. I was going to say something about pinning after assembly on those difficult joins too, but you beat me to it.
Superglue accelerant=plain tap water
Gothead420 You can use Dihydrogen Monoxide to rapidly set superglue but in my experience the adhesive can bubble up not to mention that you end up with a soggy model as well :P
Gothead420 elaborate (intreged)
This sounds like black magic to me.
Any advice for a putty to fill gaps if the model does not fit exactly together?
I finally found your channel again! Was watching a couple of videos about a year ago, but I never subscribed because I wasn't watching on my own computer; not logged in.
I really like your videos. Great, varied content. Motivates me to pick up the hobby again! Keep it up!
Glad you found your way back. Thanks for watching!
Hey just wanted to say, only seen a small selection of your videos but everything you put out and all the information you give everyone is awesome don't ever let anyone tell you otherwise because you really help people out!
Excellent videos for my classes of ESL. Great accent, pronunciation and perfect talking pace. My pupils love your videos and they feel encouraged when they come to understand the 80% of your words which is a great success for them. Carry on like this!
Best regards from Spain
I'll never forget how much of a pain it was to assemble my metal Tzeentch demon.
Been subbed for a couple of months. Loving the channel mate. Keep it up!
I appreciate it. Thanks for watching!
I used to really like metal models, and then for quite a while I wound working mostly with plastics but even then I kept saying how much I preferred metal. Fast forward to a couple of years ago (after working with styrene and resin almost exclusively) and I got a miniature from the Andrea Miniatures Warlords 40mm line and realized very quickly that I now hate working with white metal; its so much more time consuming and requires so much more work to clean up and get ready for painting. About the only I still like about metal miniatures is that they're more resilient in certain ways; for example if you accidentally put a lot of pressure on something like a weapon while you're building/painting, you're more likely to just snap plastic whereas white metal will usually bend and can then be straightened again.
I know many people don't care for the Bones line, but in my opinion they're not that bad. I believe they use a type of PVC and while it certainly is much softer than other plastics that can work to your advantage. Fixing bendy weapons and limbs just requires hot water and cold water, and you can also do this to re-position other parts of miniature like arm poses, legs poses, etc. Also, converting them, specifically where you're removing pieces, is pretty easy as well. The earlier miniatures had a problem with soft detail, but some of the new ones they've released are pretty comparable to their metal miniatures in terms of good, clean details.
When I first started getting into models, they were mostly metal...I got out of the hobby for 10+ years and came back to a lot of the Reaper models have been converted into plastic, etc and it took me back a bit but I am getting used to working with it and I think I prefer plastic as far as prepping/working with them goes. I still have a TON of metal models to work on, so I'll compare and see how I feel about them in the future. Great video as always, thanks!
When assembling large metal models i have been using a two part putty epoxy. I have found it in dollar stores and hardware stores. It comes in a tube, with the blue putty rolled around the white. You cut off the amount you need and knead it together, much like "green stuff". Once you get a consistent color you can attach your parts. This stuff will dry ROCK HARD, you can be sure that it will hold your model!
I should look into it. Thanks for watching!
I was unhappily shocked when the first metal mini came in the mail and it was flat. The pictures on the order form didn't show this at all and I've never ordered another metal mini.
I have to say how well this video is done in my opinion. Giving examples of each benefits and negative. Different scenarios and I really liked how the plastic was subdivided.
The knowlage to explan how models are made and how different companies operate is fantastic, a great bonus.
Oh, and I loved how he stated the currency he was talking about. Most don't.
I recently took a materials and manufacturing class, and I would love to do a full material analysis of the different metals, plastics, and resins used in the hobby. Just because I'm a nerd. Don't have the time right now, and I'm not sure if I could find out the exact types of plastics used by the various companies.
One of the things that hasn't been mentioned much in the video or the comments is that some of us enjoy the amount of work that goes into making metal miniatures strong, refined and long-lasting. The results may be similar, but the journey is rewarding.
Tobyn Manthorpe my friends think i'm crazy becouse i like pinning everything. metal all the way!
I don't. Five minutes with a pin vice now now saves hours of work later reattaching an arm and trying to repaint the area in a way that conceals the repair.
I believe Pendraken 10mm miniatures are pewter...
Another great Video, Thanks Atom!
One aspect of the weight issue you didn't mention--not a big deal of course--is that the lighter plastic models are better to use magnets with. Not just for holding up weapons or figures that ride stuff but also if you're the type--like me--that likes to magnetize their case.
Maybe that was too minor to be mentioned I dunno but it is an aspect that is a big deal to me ever since I magnetized my whole Wood Elf Army.
Great vid as always.
Plastic is easier to work with and paint, but I like the weight and feel of metal models, and the old cartoonish Rogue Trader, and early warhammer fantasy miniatures hold a special place in my heart. ;)
And lets not forget one of the most important thing.
Threatening to DREADSOCK someone is just not at all intimidating with a plastic model...
coming at this from more of a scale modellers perspective some of the more modern kits from the likes of meng, trumpeter and dragon have levels of detail that just aren't attainable casting metal and as for resin, oh boy the detail levels in some of those parts are unreal. realistically the only times you find metal in a scale model are photo etched brass, aluminium gun barrels and sometimes landing gear for the larger jets simply because plastic won't support the weight.
Only one clarification, the material of the "cheap plastic" isn't much cheaper than the material of the "hard plastic", the thing that is much more expensive is the manufacturing process of the "hard plastic" needing a more accurate control of the process(pressure of injection,cooling times...) and of the formulation of the plastic.
I love metal models. and so cheap still from many companies. I like the weight and its easier to strip them if needed later on.
but I do allot of historical gaming so you still have allot of metals. like Perry or Artizan
As a 40k player, I love my plastics, so much easier to repose, refit, convert, and all that like you said. However, I like to have a spattering of metal models in my collection for, well, nostalgic reasons. Also, it is easier and more precise to use a jewelers saw, or even that saw that came in the 6th edition Citadel tool kit on plastics than using just the flush cutters. A small miter box of sorts can help get some nice angular cuts and such as well. I play Ultramarines so the only limits with modeling are really just my imagination.
Holy shit I had forgotten pinning was a thing. I've had problems gluing together a big-ass Khador Juggernaut, and it's been hell because the glue doesn't hold at all, so currently it's just lying in pieces in the box until I'm figure out how to properly set it up.
Sometimes it was your only option with those bigger metal warjacks. Thanks for watching!
Another awesome episode, Uncle Atom!!!
~ Wolf-brother Methos
I in general don't like metal miniatures, but painting metal armor on metal miniatures feels so awesome it's like you paint a real piece of armor!
liked the quotes on the "pro painted models" lol. it would be cool to do a comparison with Resin/plastic/metal and especially talk about the different formulas of resin. like brittle vs more elastic resin. not sure if I am making sense.
One thing about model weight is it's easier to add weight (to the base, if nothing else) than it is to take it away.
One issue with low-volume molds versus high-volume injection molding is that the injection molds are not flexible, and so that can result in draft angle issues that would be less problematic with a flexible mold. I've been picking up some D&D figures here and there and I have seen that kind of issue here and there on some of them - like one side of the face will be well-sculpted but then the other side (the side that wasn't directly facing the mold) will be kind of mal-formed, because the mold had to be designed in a way that would allow it to separate.
Careful parts design can get around that problem (possibly increasing the parts count in the process) but designers don't always take the time (or expense) to get that right.
Great information, thanks!
I noticed your audio quality is really great, which microphone were you using?
I use a shotgun mic on a boom connected to a digital recorder via XLR. Then I have to sync that track to the camera's audio scratch track in post. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for this explanation! It's very timely for me, as I'm relatively new to the hobby and have just started cruising eBay in an attempt to appease my inner cheapskate. I often see metal models offered and wondered - perhaps due to crummy photo resolution - about their level of detail.
Although Reaper Bones does have it's drawbacks, mainly somewhat less detail, bent parts are not really one of them. You can fairly easily reposition a bent weapon for example by dipping it in boiling water, bend it to where you want it and then fix it in place by dipping it in cold water. There's a tutorial on this at the Reaper site. However, the detail is somewhat lacking on smaller models, so I mainly use it for larger models where the detail isn't as much affected. Add to that the low weight and low price making really large pieces more accessible and durable.
You're estimate about the cost of an injection mold, it varies a large amount per model ones with detail will cost far more. For instance if you someone like GW for example a mold could cost as little as 5-10k, however some of their more detailed models would probably cost upwards of 150k.
What
Practically I prefer plastic, especially as I can't seem to get my paint to stick to the pointiest bits of my metal models, and they take more prep to work with. However, there is something luxurious about the heft of a metal mini that just awakens nostalgia for me. I love just holding them. By the base obviously.
I think there is room for both in the hobby. Nice run through of the differences
I find with pinning metal models, putting a dot of paint on the pin that is already attached and cut for size against the part of the model where it goes in makes for a more accurate hole. Just drill where the model has the paint dot.
I would add that the weight difference between the two, also makes for some adjusting in painting techniques. What I mean by this is that an item heavier in hand takes a different kind of grip, to steady while painting fine details. when I paint a metal model I usually mount or brace it to something that I can rest at eye level. When I paint a plastic model I am more inclined to just grip in hand and hold it at eye level while I paint.
PSA: In case anybody is wandering, there are nail polish removers without acetone widely available at cosmetic stores, it strips acryllic paint off the model no trouble, no damage, you just soak the model and use an old toothbrush to scrape the paint off, and one bottle costs 1-2 usd and can strip the paint off of 4-5 1/72 scale aircraft, it also dissolves super glue.
I prefer plastic and multi-part plastic, especially for painting. I like painting some pieces before they are attached, ie shields or such. But for me it is 15mm tanks that come in plastic that this method works best. Take the PSC's Panzer IV. The tracks are separate pieces. Clean and file on the sprue, prime, and base coat. This allows me to more easily paint the rubber on the bogies and do some of the other detail work without the tracks being in the way and having to worry about getting paint on the tracks. Once all the base painting is done, attach the tracks making sure the unpainted bits (where it was cut from the sprue) is facing inwards. Do any touch up painting and then attach the hull together. Easy peasy nice and easy.
Great subject again. Truly enjoy your channel.
Magnets are an excellent alternative to pinning. The major upside being you can make multiple appendages that are easily removed. You can really deck out a miniature by buying multiple copies and making custom weapons, grips, multiple actions, etc. The other upside is you can paint the magnets as well and they still work. Miniwargaming Jay has an excellent video about pinning/magnets.
I've never had luck with using magnets in that way. I'll have to check his video. Thanks for watching!
Metal all the way, I hate myself for letting go my set of metal terminators from back in the early 90’s, plus my metal dreadnaught 😭
It's a personal preference of which models I go for over what the materials they are made from, it depends on what they look like and which army and faction they're from whether they are plastic, resin or metal.
Although, I rarely work on resin models because of the extra care needed to assemble them, mainly from health point of view with the cutting and filing/sanding.
I prefer plastic and resin over metal. The materials are easier to work with and I prefer the models to weigh less so that they don't weigh a ton when I'm transporting them all at once. Additonally, with metal miniatures, the paint chipping problem can happen more often than most people may like to admit, and I just don't want to have to repaint something over and over again. Finally, Mean Green degreaser will strip plastic and resin of paint without harming the materials and the tools needed for plastic models conversion sre much cheaper than the ones I would need to work with metal.
Great video as always, man!
I actually can see worlds of difference in detail on plastic models vs. the metal ones. The plastic on a lot of 40K models is much more pronounced than a lot of the older metal ones.
I agree. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. As someone who is new to mini's, the plastic/metal question is something I'd pondered.
Great video. Also may note that material can constantly be reused, reformed, and melted down into something different with metal models.
lol this is so nice to know that i am using the right glue al along all the time for my metal models (EPOXY 2 components)
great vid again!
I have a preference for plastic, as I like to do a lot of conversions. I also carve a lot of details by hand, and plastic is the way to go there, for obvious reasons. That being said though, I still have a fair few metal models from smaller companies that I intend to splice bits onto.
I prefer metal, mostly because it’s what I’m used to but, crucially, because metal models stay where you put them on the table, whereas lighter models are much easier to disrupt. I acknowledge that modern plastic models have the advantages that were gone over in the video, but I still hoard metal and avoid plastic. When I do use plastic, I always mount the mini on a metal base like a metal slug or a short stack of coins-usually old German money, as it’s out-of-circulation but not yet so rare that I make coin collectors cry.
I have had a lot of issues trying to prime reaper bones and keeping the paint on. Vallejo primer seems to be the best. The new Wizkids pre primed stuff seems to be made of a harder plastic and might be the best choice for people new to the hobby.
Those new WizKids models are pretty nice. Thanks for watching!
I am editing a review of them right now. Pretty OK. People are going to have to invest in a file set if they buy them because of seams but Dang they seem like quite a value so far.
Pretty much echoed my opinion on the two materials. And for gluing metal models better, I've found some companies make the joints between parts complex, curved surfaces, so it's not just a shallow ball and socket. Sometimes, even increasing the size of each part, so the joint to attach an arm isn't just at the wrist, or right at the shoulder, but may even include part of the shoulder blade or pectoral area. It also generally means that the seam is much better hidden, since it follows the contours and edge details on the model, but it also means that it's much harder to customize the position of the mini. My favorite company that does (or rather, did this) was Rackham; their poses are so dynamic and interesting, and the various models in a unit were all posed so differently from one another, that I never felt the need to mod them, and I am a *habitual* modder of GW minis. GW is getting a bit better about parting lines with their newer models, but I still marvel the the ingenuity of how Rackham managed to cut up their sculpts for casting. Unfortunately, they went out of business and their minis are hard to find. They decided to switch from making exquisite metal minis to mostly making really shoddy prepainted plastic models, and went under. Tragic. (Incidentally, one of the reasons why GW sculpts are getting better is because a number of Rackham's sculptors work for GW now. LOL)
Painter Sam has a secret stash of Rackham models, as they're pretty great models. Thanks for watching!
I find that I prefer buying metal models if I'm buying over ebay and it's been painted over. It's just so easy to clean and strip. However with new and in box/on sprue stuff, I prefer plastic.
I know what you mean. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I prefer hard plastic for all the reasons you listed plus the medium of plastic frees the sculptors from size limitations incurred by metal. In short plastic models in general can get quite a bit bigger and more ambitious than metal, and I dig that! (Take a look at old metal Nagash vs new... I know that's an extreme case but that's what I am talking about!)
Fairly new to miniatures. Have to say I am leaning towards plastics ones as a favourite to build ( favorite being ragnar skysplitter) though I like the weight of metal. It also might just be me but I fine the plastic easier to prime and paint.
One method I highly recommend for metal and resin models is to apply greenstuff into joints... part/glue/GS/glue/part...
Since CA glue works well with zero air gap, the GS + CA allow instant effective bond of the mating parts, but still allow a slight amount of adjustment pre cure...
But for heavy stuff, it still needs a pin...
But this video is 100% LEGIT!
I prefer my individual troops, characters, and small vehicles to be metal but when you get to the medium to large models, such as tanks and titans, those really need to be made from plastic. As for working with metal models I have had problems getting them to stay with glue especially the wings of the metal Belakor model i have from GW. The only solution I really see to make sure a metal model stays together is to solder it which I haven't tried myself but will if I ever get around to buying a soldering iron.
Metal miniatures can be a pain to assemble like my old Dwarf Gyrocopter... I swear to god now I'm going to use drill and rods to make it stable. XD
you need more WAAAAGH
If you think you might want to repurpose plastics at a later date assemble with superglue instead of plastic glue, makes a more brittle joint for disassembly but sturdy enough for gaming (doesn't melt the plastics together).
When pinning drill your first hole and insert a pin that protrudes only a mm or so, enough to remove with tweezers. Dab some white paint on the protruding pin and then line the part up with the correct position on the model, it should leave a mark where the mirror hole needs to be.
To add a little weight to the minis that are plastic I take some strong tape and stick a penny under the base, with gw’s 28mm has room for it and makes it harder to tip over
My first Resin model was finecast and was a mess. Not only didn't I feel any oils on the model to know it would destroy the paint job I also didn't know you really shouldn't cut it for safety purposes. One thing hat is a positive and a negative is that it bends. Now the reason this is both is because you can warm up a fine-cast model under hot water or whatever heat source you use to temporarily make it more bendable and a short time after will stay in the pose you have bent it to. Hope this helps many unaware customers like myself as I had no problems with plastic models besides sometimes the thin pieces are broken easily off the sprue.
I used to be a big fan of metal models but I have grown to love plastics, mostly for what Atom said in the video.
Don't forget that an army of metal models is obviously way heavier than a plastic one. Past a few tournaments you'll go for plastics any day.
Sure, transporting a bag full of metal models could put a bend in your spine. Thanks for watching!
Your men bear the weight of their weapons proudly into battle, why shouldn't their general? :P
One of my more painful memories regarding metal miniatures is that i had just finished a rat ogre for my mortheim warband.
I waited for the varnish to dry, took the model in hand and.... dropped it.... there was a mere second of joy having a finished model in hand, doing a last checkup on the model. That joy turned instantly into a mixture of rage and sadness..
When I inspected the damage it was shocking how much i had to repaint...
One other thing to add on Reaper BONES is that they kickstart their mold production, so they can lower the cost there as they don't HAVE to recoup the mold creation costs.
Due to the fact that plastics moulds are very hard - there have to be some shape concessions that the flexible moulds for metal didn't have to make.
Presently I'm painting some Blood Bowl Skaven. Many have rings/bands around their tails that *should* be circular, but instead are off-angle ovoid shapes so they can be extracted when the two sections of the mould separate.
The flexible moulds used for metal can be displaced some, when a model is pulled and, in this case, would allow for a more natural shape on this particular item.
I've seen similar concessions made (some space marines feet where they meet the greave) when it comes to plastics. But there's always ups and downs
I've noticed what you're talking about in plastics before. Thanks for watching!
One thing I'll say about resin that I don't think you mentioned. Resin has the issue of getting rid of the release agent. I can't tell you how many times either I have personally experienced, or had a friend experience issues with models from Forgeworld where they can't even paint them because they can't get the release agent off of the model.
i use solder with a very low melting point. if i dont want them joint anymore i just put them in warm water and they just fall apart. works fine in cold middle europe, maybe not the best idea in places that regulary get hotter than 40°C
I've never thought of that. Thanks for watching!
That's going to be a problem in a few short years with global warming!
nox5555 sounds like a good idea for you. Not so much for me who lives in Australian summer and I can't always keep the air conditioning on.
yeah, northern germany hasnt alot of days with 30°C+ and i never experienced 40°C+ here
Resin is a joy for me to paint. I feel as though resin holds detail better because it cures at room temperature rather than cooling and microscopically shrinking. I see everybody's got different opinions when it comes to this. Maybe what it comes down to is variance between companies- some use resin really well, Corvus Belli does amazing things with metal.
The best example of a recent resin in my mind was Kingdom Death's limited run Druid, whose toothpick-thin staff is a wraparound filigree the breadth of a needle.
I've messed with Finecast, but not much in the way of regular resin. Thanks for watching!
Metal has a harder time when hiding seems, but it much easier to file down. How ever plastic is easy to clean up in certain aspects. Using a file on plastic can leave annoying little plastic bits static cling, but Exacto scraping is soooo mush easier. Gotta say though I don't have a real preference to either, just know they both have their headache moments.
In the long run, I prefer plastics, but I've gotten better with some metals. Thanks for watching!
One thing plastic models can do that metal seems to be unable to achieve are the models that are intended to look like they are flying. Nagash, Celestant Prime, new St. Celestine are all things metal probably couldn't achieve
Due to the weight. That's a good point. Thanks for watching!
I've always used Locktite maximum control gel on pewter/metal minis....never had an issue with it. I like metal a bit more, it just feels nicer on the table.
I should look into that stuff. Thanks for watching!
I like to use metal ones as my player character models. I will agree that they chip like crazy, and a lot more work goes into them. Though, they 'feel' better, weighty and such.
I've almost exclusively shifted to plastic models. In GW land, the last metal models I bought were Daemonettes of Slaanesh. The originals with the big crab claws were great, but the next run that were all flimsy and skinny frustrated me too much to get them to stay together.
Or perhaps superglue has become crappier over the years. Recently (ish) heard about CA bonder, but I'm over it. Plastics are amazing quality, far easier to work with, and far easier to convert. And so much lighter when carrying around an army. :)
I agree: I generally prefer plastic models for those same reasons. Thanks for watching!
I've heard that Green Stuff can make for a much stronger bond in metal models when bonding to metal or to plastic.
Plastic for troops or for stuff you wanna convert and metal for captains, because the weight makes them feel more special. Also metal modells are a pain if there's some real flesh. Got a Faramir who had a blob of metal on his face and even after working on it his left part of the face/helmet looks weird.
being a 40k sisters player i have become a bit of an expert on pinning. all of my pen engines are pinned and my troop models are now even pinned to their bases.
Old video I know but my friend have been playing Warhammer for years and years where I am only just starting. They swore by using thumb skin as a catalyst between the metal and glue. As of yet only one arm has fallen off of any of their models after 10-12 years of moving them around and being rough with them
I came into wargaming with 2nd edition 40k, although strictly speaking I tried Warzone before that (still have the second edition Warzone box set) so most of my gaming pieces back then were metal. However 3rd edition brought us the multi-part plastic Space Marines, and the rest is history. In Malifaux I have a pretty even mix of 1/1.5 metals and 1.5/2.0 plastics, maybe more plastics now.
I do prefer certain metal models, like the alt Doc MacMourning, to the plastics. I think the old metal Sue looks a bit better than the new one too. I do find paint has a tendency to rub off edges on the metal with handling, but that's just how it goes.
Somebody recently reminded me that we have odd ways of amusing ourselves. LOL.
I find biostrip is the best stuff for stripping minis. it will do both metal and plastic without damage (even pp resin plastic) it's reusable, it's not too nasty on your hands and you can leave models in there for as long as you want and then pretty much wipe the paint off. It's like what dettol used to be before they removed the active agent
I'll have to look into it. Thanks for watching!
Tabletop Minions can't recommend the product enough, you won't go back to nail varnish remover afterwards. would like to see your views afterwards.
One thing I didn't hear about metal models is that for every one I have, I've need to file off a burr or flatten the base. I've never had an issue with plastics. Also, I'm finding plastics easier to brush prime (can't use spray paint in my apartment)
Yeah, if you don't want the integrated base on your metal models, they're pretty difficult to get off some times. Thanks for watching!
for plastic model stripping, use rubber achohol , it makes wonders, tho i love metal models also for some weird reason sometimes they are cheaper than their resin counterparts
I like the feel of painting a metal 'HQ' type unit but prefer plastic for the mass troops.
Always loved metal because fo the weight and when I started most models were lead then white metal . As of now I don’t really have a preference though I hate gluing metal together with a passion .
I would love to hear your opinion on 3D printed minis - plastic and resin versions. Ive used a few so far and made some.
I like the concept, but the execution is still a little problematic. I'd love to see some of the stuff from your new printer up close. Thanks for watching!
I really like the weight of metal. For me though my big bugbear is multi-part kits. I much prefer single castings or casting requiring minimal assembly. I resent the hours spent having to glue fiddly little bits together.
I love plastic a lot more. I absolutely hate putting metal together, but I also feel that resin takes paint very strangely. Plastic is so easy to put together and convert and the such
My best experience with plastic was GW's Officio Prefectus Commissar, their newer super sharp plastic, wonderful, fit together perfectly and just as much detail as my best resin stuff. I've never really been impressed with the detail of metal models, though they do *feel* worth the money a bit more, so I can understand people liking them despite their issues.
One reason I don't grumble at GW pricing is how nice the models are, they are improved from the cheaper models. Being someone who prefers a small army of exquisite models and games that you don't run out of time on, I much prefer having access to a range of different high detailed models, and will swap captains into tactical squads as sergeants as a little example, that kind of approach to my armies. Concentrating on small armies crafted well rather than convincing yourself from the rules you need 100 of every model means you can spend on models and have an army you are proud of, and still spend less.
I like and buy both but my preference would be one-piece metals. No faffing about assembling, just get them on a base, undercoat - ready. I'm not interested in converting so these are perfect for me. However, plastic box sets, particularly historical, say from Perry or Gripping Beast, are a cheap way to build forces and the castings & detail are excellent.
It's hard to make a good sculpt with a single piece metal model, but when it works well, it's great. Thanks for watching!
having a similar discussion on another forum. think the problem comes in when companies move to single cast. then you loose some detail. but 'assembly required' plastic models is great.
Plasic, it is better to glue, it is easier too paint before glueing.
Plastic, then metal, then resin, then finecast for me.
Mostly because I buy a fair amount of second-hand stuff right now from having just returned to the game at this later stage of 7th Edition after walking away during 4th Edition; some old habits diehard but I can use undiluted Dettol straight from the shops to strip my plastic figures of bad paintwork in under 48 hours and metal figures in under 12 hours. Resin and finecast is a lot harder to work with when stripping the paint just in my experience. Also the Australian heat tends to punish resin and finecast unless you're insanely careful with your storage and have a good air conditioner. :P
When I want to mod something, plastic and metal are about even: I still have my old tools and it is just a matter of time and patience.
I'd be pretty nervous with Finecast in that kind of heat. Thanks for watching!