great info and lead through the job. In regards to the final stage where you tension the top part of the belt using the ally lever tool you then run the engine 2 times clockwise and then re-check the pin in the cam pulley. Why not also the pin in the injector pump. Is this assumed that we do check that as well.? great video thanks
Hi Garry. Thanks for your comment. The locking pin in the high pressure fuel pump which I put in before belt removal is just for further verification that the engine is at top dead centre. Once the pulley is tightened in its slotted holes you dont need to lock it again. The critical parts are the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys. This is my first time making an instructional video. I will be improving my presentational and video skills in my next videos. I hope the video was of use to you.
Mend it with Mick excellent info and presentation . You make it easy to understand good video and explanation has given me confidence ! I’ve bought the parts and will be taking more in depth notes from you before I commit . Thanks 👍
Hi there. Great video info. I would like to ask you about recommendations on which timing belt + water pump kit to get for my 2013 Audi q3 2.0 TDI quattro S line 177HP?
Had comments from a viewer but accidentally deleted it, so I will clarify here: Comment - Why turn cam sprocket anticlockwise to take slack from new belt? Answer - Standard workshop procedure. Slack has to be removed from the new belt, that is why the cam sprocket mounting holes are slotted (elongated). Question - The final position of the bolts in the slotted mounting holes are not central to the slotted holes. Answer - That is normal once the slack has been taken up. As long as the locking pin can still fit into the hole in the cylinder head then the timing is correct.
Hello, I have a couple questions. Thanks! 1. Did you replace the belt because you HAD to replace it, meaning it was too worn, and 2. Is there a certain sign or something to look for to know when to replace the belt, meaning warning signs etc. Thank you for the help.
Hi You should always replace the timing belt at the mileage or interval recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Check belt periodically to look for signs of excessive wear, fraying on the edges and cracking. If the belt snapped while driving you would know about it. It would wreck the cylinder head, valves and camshafts. Most likely cause serious damage to the engine. Very expensive.
Hi Took a lot longer than I hoped due to filming and trying to give as much detail as I could. Cost about £200 for parts. I would estimate that I saved about 5 or six hundred in labour costs.
Hi mate great vid I’m just double checking sumthing . Do u have to lock the high pressure fuel clog up when take the cam belt of because u locked it when the belt was off ?
You have to lock the HP fuel pump before you put the new timing belt on to make sure the HP pump is timed correctly. You can only get the pin in position if the HP pump is timed properly. Once the new belt is on you can remove the pin and do final adjustments using the crankshaft pulley and camshaft sprocket. Thanks for watching and I hope it helped.
Hello Mick, thank you for your great video!!! I have just done it today, I think went through every task as you described it, however I'm getting a strange result when turning on the engine. It seems to start then stops right the way, showing "Start-stop system: deactivated! Restart engine manually", then flashing the incandescent spark plug on the board. I have an Audi Q3 2013 8U 2.0 177 HP. Any thoughts appreciated!
Hi I would think that the timing is not set correctly. When Audi glow plug light flashing it is possible that its a faulty brake light switch. This would also possibly be why start stop message appears. Another possibility is fuel pressue. I think it is too much of a coincidence and your timing is out.
@@viorelionescu8236 I would check the timing. Are you certain that it is not 180 degrees out? Have you checked the battery? Make sure everything including aircon is switched off and try starting again.
The spring clip is much better than the screw one especially for collant system like hoses cause its gonna keep a constant pressure on the hoses to prevent leaks unlike the screw one
I agree mick, in my experience the spring clips loose their tension over time due to corrosion etc. Ive never had trouble with a good old jubilee (as long as its of good quality).
Great vid Mick just had the big INA idler split in 2 halves after 44000 miles go for the solid ones gates ect. Not a fan of INA design now
Thanks! Gates is the way to go.
Absolute legend you are. Thanks Mick ✌🏽
Thanks!
great info and lead through the job. In regards to the final stage where you tension the top part of the belt using the ally lever tool you then run the engine 2 times clockwise and then re-check the pin in the cam pulley. Why not also the pin in the injector pump. Is this assumed that we do check that as well.? great video thanks
Hi Garry. Thanks for your comment. The locking pin in the high pressure fuel pump which I put in before belt removal is just for further verification that the engine is at top dead centre. Once the pulley is tightened in its slotted holes you dont need to lock it again. The critical parts are the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys.
This is my first time making an instructional video. I will be improving my presentational and video skills in my next videos. I hope the video was of use to you.
Mend it with Mick excellent info and presentation . You make it easy to understand good video and explanation has given me confidence ! I’ve bought the parts and will be taking more in depth notes from you before I commit . Thanks 👍
Hi there. Great video info. I would like to ask you about recommendations on which timing belt + water pump kit to get for my 2013 Audi q3 2.0 TDI quattro S line 177HP?
Had comments from a viewer but accidentally deleted it, so I will clarify here:
Comment - Why turn cam sprocket anticlockwise to take slack from new belt?
Answer - Standard workshop procedure. Slack has to be removed from the new belt, that is why the cam sprocket mounting holes are slotted (elongated).
Question - The final position of the bolts in the slotted mounting holes are not central to the slotted holes.
Answer - That is normal once the slack has been taken up. As long as the locking pin can still fit into the hole in the cylinder head then the timing is correct.
Fantastic informative easy to follow video
Hello, I have a couple questions. Thanks!
1. Did you replace the belt because you HAD to replace it, meaning it was too worn, and
2. Is there a certain sign or something to look for to know when to replace the belt, meaning warning signs etc. Thank you for the help.
And also, how much was your kit that you bought, and approximately how many pieces were in it if you can remember?
Hi
You should always replace the timing belt at the mileage or interval recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
Check belt periodically to look for signs of excessive wear, fraying on the edges and cracking.
If the belt snapped while driving you would know about it. It would wreck the cylinder head, valves and camshafts. Most likely cause serious damage to the engine. Very expensive.
Looks like a lengthy job. How much money do you think you saved?
Hi
Took a lot longer than I hoped due to filming and trying to give as much detail as I could. Cost about £200 for parts. I would estimate that I saved about 5 or six hundred in labour costs.
Hi mate great vid I’m just double checking sumthing . Do u have to lock the high pressure fuel clog up when take the cam belt of because u locked it when the belt was off ?
You have to lock the HP fuel pump before you put the new timing belt on to make sure the HP pump is timed correctly. You can only get the pin in position if the HP pump is timed properly. Once the new belt is on you can remove the pin and do final adjustments using the crankshaft pulley and camshaft sprocket.
Thanks for watching and I hope it helped.
Why did you need to turn the cam sprocket to take out the slack and the bolt holes on the sprockets don’t look central
How Long Did it Take do change Where did you buy kit
Took about two and a half hours in total. Got all the kit off Ebay.
Hello Mick, thank you for your great video!!! I have just done it today, I think went through every task as you described it, however I'm getting a strange result when turning on the engine. It seems to start then stops right the way, showing "Start-stop system: deactivated! Restart engine manually", then flashing the
incandescent spark plug on the board. I have an Audi Q3 2013 8U 2.0 177 HP. Any thoughts appreciated!
Hi
I would think that the timing is not set correctly.
When Audi glow plug light flashing it is possible that its a faulty brake light switch. This would also possibly be why start stop message appears.
Another possibility is fuel pressue.
I think it is too much of a coincidence and your timing is out.
@@menditwithmick4320 Thanks for the quick response. So you suggest redo the timing?
@@viorelionescu8236 I would check the timing. Are you certain that it is not 180 degrees out?
Have you checked the battery?
Make sure everything including aircon is switched off and try starting again.
Its your decision. It seems too much of a coincidence to me.
If it was me I would redo timing.
The spring clip is much better than the screw one especially for collant system like hoses cause its gonna keep a constant pressure on the hoses to prevent leaks unlike the screw one
I dont agree. Jubilee clips do not come loose if they are the correct size and fitted properly.
I agree mick, in my experience the spring clips loose their tension over time due to corrosion etc. Ive never had trouble with a good old jubilee (as long as its of good quality).
Video very useful, will be doing mine very soon! Thank you Mike and well done!
Best of luck!
Fantastic
Thank you!
Thanks for the demmo, wish i had seen this sooner as would have saved me 4 hours of fault finding..
Hope you found the video useful.
Great job 👌
Keep up, the video is amazing
Thanks!