My wife and me formed and poured our tops to. I coloured and stamped mine, i kept it damp with towels for about 2 weeks, little long. In the end I covered it with a liquid glass. It’s been 12 years now and still looks perfect
We just love the look of concrete and it’s so flexible you can really make it look like anything. White concrete countertops are definitely a future project!
We love the natural look so we just finished it with SiCryl (silicone acrylic sealer) from the manufacture of the molds. It keeps the natural color and looks amazing.
Great job. What if it hadn't turned out right or if you just want to replace it after a while? Is there a way to remove the concrete countertop without destroying the cabinets? Another question: Are there products you could pour over the contcrete to change the look and seal it better? Thank you.
Do you have a video on the finishing and sealing process? I would imagine that is critical as porous as concrete is. Can sealant be added directly to the concrete mix?
Just curious, it looks like you poured over the lip of the sink that was laying on the concrete board. So is that sink permanent at this point? As in, you would have to destroy the counter edge to remove it?
Yes the concrete is poured over the lip so If you have to remove the sink you would cut out and replace with a drop in. Not an ideal scenario but most stainless still sinks are expected to last 30-50 years without issue.
how much of the back form shows when countertops are complete? Getting ready to do this project tomorrow, but still having a hard time understanding the back form after the countertops set up before adding backsplash.
I've always seen how people pour it in a form off-site and it seemed like theres always issues doing it that way, it'll break during transportation, the rebar will sink to the bottom in the form during curing (which is the top of the countertop once in place making the rebar visible) or the shape just gets wrong. This has stopped me from wanting to pour my own countertop. Puring it on the spot is really cool and eliminates these issues. Now I do want to pour my own countertop.
We poured ours into a melamine mold in three equal 36" sections, then used non-sag sealer between the sections, chipped the edges with a small hammer, covered it in epoxy, and tossed color chips/chunky gold glitter flakes in the wet epoxy. It looks great.
Hi Sarah! The cement is and it isn't regular. We bought the molds from @zcounterform and they sell a product called "Liquicrete". Basically its an additive mixture that you mix with sand topping cement. You can buy regular @sakrete or @quikrete sand topping mix. It makes the concrete pourable so it can flow between the fiberglass mesh and it makes it easier to work with. Hope this help!
We used the Z SiAcryl sealer from the same company that makes the forms. It seals without changing the color much. Dry sanding is a dusty process but it prevents the countertops from having the “polished” look. When polishing the countertops the aggregate is more visible and gives the countertop a salt and pepper finish that we don’t like as much as the flat consistent grey look of the concrete.
@@WhatTheFlipShow @What The Flip Thanks for the quick answer, yeah it is just that we are having some installers working on a concrete Island, but the sealer they applied is peeling off, the other issue is that the sealer seems to be solvent based with some VOCs (which can't be good). they dry sanded but with 300grit I think and a non-orbital sander. After little research online many people mention dry sanding is not the best since it doesn't create enough porosity, but it is great that it worked out for you!.
Concrete is already extremely porous material which is why it needs to be sealed. Wet sanding is mainly used to help cut down on the dust and so more aggressive sanding and polishing can be done. I hate that the sealer is peeling off. I would definitely look into Concrete Solutions SiAcryl it’s silicone acrylic and it has always worked great for us. Good Luck!
That’s the natural color! Some bags of Sand Topping mix (the cement we used) can be a bit warmer almost beige. So just check a few different brands. Also we used SiCryl sealer from Concrete Countertop Solutions, and that causes the color to darken slightly but keep it looking natural. Also try a test piece first to get the hang of the process and see if you are happy with the color!
Standard Faucets should work. This is the one we used 👇 Flynt Brushed Nickel 1-Handle Deck-Mount Pull-Down Handle Kitchen Faucet (Deck Plate Included) www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-Brushed-Nickel-1-Handle-Deck-Mount-Pull-Down-Handle-Lever-Commercial-Residential-Kitchen-Faucet/1001368238
Just about to dive into doing some countertops using this system. Great helpful video. I'm looking into using some pigment color to give a slightly warm gray concrete. Nothing that looks brown by any means, but ever so slight warm gray versus plain or cool gray. In one of your replies you mentioned the sakrete makes a slightly warmer gray than the quikrete when mixed with liqui-crete. That sakrete may do the trick rather than having to add in some pigment color. If I add in pigment, I have no idea how I would color a slurry to fix any bubbles or pinholes after the fact and have it match perfectly. Also, do you all have any experience with Z counter's other sealers or only the siacryl-14? I'm on the fence on what sealer would work best and whether to go matte or gloss on the finish.
We have only used sicryl as we want the finish to be as matte as possible. But I highly recommend making a test piece. And once you get the look you want remember the ratio you used so you can get a consistent look in your mix as well as when you go to patch pinholes.
Cementitious backer board, such as Hardie Board or Durock, is a substrate commonly used for tile. It is cement and reinforced with fiberglass and creates a bond with the concrete. If doing an under mount sink the seam between the metal and concrete is sealed with silicone caulk to prevent leaks.
Are you building this on top of al already existing countertop? What if I do not have a countertop at all? Can this be build stand alone and then put in place afterwards?
I had tile countertops and we pulled the tile up, which left the 3/4 inch plywood. Can I concrete over the plywood, or do I need to put down the cement board?
This soothed my quick fix need by giving me a dopamine hit through vicariously living as I dreamed of the day I will get to do this in my own house and while i probably won't. Nah just kidding. I definitely will be doing this and I enjoyed the video and channel name too. And I appreciate it.
We sometimes only go as high grit as 220. We try and get the countertops as smooth as we can with the trowel because the more you sand the more aggregate becomes visible, which gives the countertop a salt-n-pepper look. Then we sealed with si-cryl acrylic sealer.
Sanding is removing small amounts of material but it isn’t necessarily “grinding it down” since we are using such a high grit. We did this to smooth the surface vs polishing the concrete to keep a natural finish.... polish makes the finish look like salt and pepper as more aggregate shows through. Hope this helps.
Hi Sam, we didn’t color the concrete and tried to keep it looking as natural as possible. We only sealed it with SiCryl sealer from the Manufacturer of the molds.
Hey Bill, thanks for watching. It’s a 2 5/8” Hole saw. Typically for a sink you want to align the drain to be centered in between the cabinet doors (if there are any on the cabinet holding the sink). Then center the faucet inline with the drain and have enough clearance between the back wall and the sink. I dry fit the sink and faucet in the Hardie Backer Board before pouring the concrete just to make sure I’m happy with the look. Hope this helps. Good luck with your project, let us know how it goes, and subscribe for more!
That would be tough because you have to be able to screed and trowel all the way to the back of the mold to make smooth and the backsplash would prevent that. You could possibly remove the bottom few rows of the back splash and then replace when finished but it would be easier to add a new back splash.
Depends on the size of your countertops. I can’t remember for this project as it was some time ago. But the website that sales the system had a calculator to help you estimate.
Hi mason, The company that sold the forms is concrete countertop solutions. They have a product called SiCryl which is a sealer that doesn’t add much sheen or change the color. We loved the way the raw matte concrete looked and wanted to keep the finish pretty close to that and the SiCryl does a great job.
More amazed with the video quality than the countertop! The countertop looks great too. Keep up the great work, definitely have a lot of potential and realism in these videos!
I replied to your other comment. But just to be sure you see this its one bag of Sand Topping Mix (from quikrete or sakrete) mixed with 1 bag of Liquicrete from www.concretecountertopsolutions.com The same company that sells the forms.
Looks good, but what about some preparations and durability: - as concrete is heavy did you make any work of making studs stronger in the basement? Otherwise cracks would appear shortly - what was added to a concrete to absorb dirt? is it waterproof? - would be great to check the result based on daily experience after some time. Thanks for sharing though
This was in a cinderblock house with steel beam joists so weight was not an issue. Most homes built to code can handle the weight unless the joists are spaced to far. A bigger concern would be using cheap or damaged cabinet boxes as they may not support the weight. We have also done these for years and they hold up great.
What concrete did you end up using? Did you use any color enhancer? I noticed you did not use the Counterform concrete they offer. I was going to do their white, but I think I like the gray you all came out with. Thanks.
@Quikrete Sand topping mix has a nice light grey color. I like Sakrete as well but thought their color was on the warmer beige side and I like the neutral grey.
I have one question though..... What if something goes wrong with the kitchen sink or you have to replace the kitchen sink one day? How the heck do you get it out, it's concreted in! Does that mean you have to rip up all of your concrete countertops and completely replace them too?
You would just cut the sink out and replace with a drop in. Stainless steel sinks are generally rated for 15-30 years so it shouldn’t be a common issue.
Hi Chris! Thanks for watching! It’s an undermount sink and it is placed between the concrete and the backer board. This is the way the system is designed. The sink is rated for 15-30 years so I expect by the time the sink needs to be swapped the countertops would be do for an update as well. But if for some reason you wanted/needed to swap sinks you would cut out the sink and replace with a drop in top mount sink. Hope this helps!
Hi Scott. Depending on how well you smoothed the surface during the steel trowel phase determines how much sanding needs to be done. We started with 80 grit and worked up to 320 and worked through the grits quickly so we didn’t over sand. Over sanding makes the aggregate more visible giving the concrete a salt and peppery finish. We like a more matte finish. If you want a glossy finish you can use higher grits and even a polisher, however you won’t get the typical grey concrete look and more of that salt and pepper finish. Hope this helps. Subscribe for more and let us know how your project turns out!
Great question. That is how the system is designed so if there is an issue with the sink it would have to be cut out and replaced with a drop in. Luckily stainless steel sinks routinely last 30+ years.
With the under mounted sink... did you buy an actual under mount sink or a regular sink? Im just confused because it looks like a regular sink and the concrete is just poured around it to make it look under mounted and also will you not be able to change the sink without removing the countertops?
It is an under mounted sink, that is the way this system is designed. Typically you can get 30 years out of a quality stainless steel sink. If it needs to be changed however you will have to cut out the sink and replace with a drop in. Hope this helps!
I just tried to look up the prices forgot I that stuff.am I wrong or is it $149 for 8 ft piece and 8ft piece for the back. Just curious how much the snap stuff is.
Thanks Jacob! Check out the latest video to see the full kitchen Reno! As far as the color we left it natural because we love the modern/industrial vibe of natural concrete. However the color will vary depending on the brand of cement. We also used a silicone acrylic sealer which added just a hint of gloss and slightly darkened the finish. Hope this helps.
I would really love to see the finishing countertop.. this video is only half of what am looking for.. thought u would have shown how the epoxy was going to be used .
I just did my countertops and they came out very rough. My guess is we didn't finish trowel them enough. There is a lot of sand/small aggregate on top. even when you rin your hand across it, it comes off Can we just keep sanding until smooth?
Could be a few issues, might not have mixed the concrete throughly enough, might not allowed enough cure time before sanding, and of course you may not have finished troweled them well enough. You may be able to keep sanding, start with 80 grit and work your way up to the higher grits like 320/400 if necessary. Aggregate will be visible but it’s important that they are smooth. Also sealing the countertops will add slight additional smoothness. Hope this helps!
@@WhatTheFlipShow hello, we have the same problem, and we really hate how the agregate shows in the surface, so we are thinking of pour a slurry made just with cement, water , no sand and stone, and industrial white glue, used in concrete for the bond, between old surface and the new one we are about to pour, so what do you think? Thank you
Thank you guys for the video? My wife and I are also wanting concrete countertops, but I'm not sure I'm understanding correctly. If I'm purchasing the white countertop concrete mix from concrete solutions - I should mix it with the liqui-crete?
I think due to the mixture required I don’t think the white countertops can be made with the liquicrete system. I think they have to be made with rebar and packed in if I’m not mistaken but check with the manufacturer. Also if you do decide on concrete countertops use code FLIP10 for 10% off.
that's so cool!! It gives me courage for mine :) Question: have you considered incorporating a pre built concrete sink? I'd do it but it makes me nervous ...
Hmmm not sure if we’ve seen that in a kitchen. Most of the prebuilt concrete sinks we’ve seen are for bathrooms and they sit on top of the counter, so not sure how that would work.
We love concrete countertops!! And with proper vibration you can get minimal air holes. We like the look of the tiny imperfections in concrete but you can patch the holes with a slurry if you want a cleaner look!
Look at reverse cast countertops.. you can use regular concrete, cost is minimal and you get a flawless finish. Way easier and less expensive than this method..
Anything to tap the air out, pencil vibrator on the side, Orbital sander, oscillating tool works good, they actually make a flat blade for an oscillating tool but any thing to vibrate it, even tapping it with a screwdriver or such seems to work.
My wife and me formed and poured our tops to. I coloured and stamped mine, i kept it damp with towels for about 2 weeks, little long. In the end I covered it with a liquid glass. It’s been 12 years now and still looks perfect
We just love the look of concrete and it’s so flexible you can really make it look like anything. White concrete countertops are definitely a future project!
What is liquid glass?
@@joannlievsay6623 i believe its a sealant you put on the counter top and it seals and makes it shine and gives a look like its wet all the time
It's probably just epoxy
How to remove board underneath which we place before pouring concrete 😕
Great work. I would use over counter sink, bc if you have to change under counter sink you have to brake the countertop.
Deff doing this, did you guys ene up adding color or any texture or can one epoxy it like floors?
We love the natural look so we just finished it with SiCryl (silicone acrylic sealer) from the manufacture of the molds. It keeps the natural color and looks amazing.
Great job. What if it hadn't turned out right or if you just want to replace it after a while? Is there a way to remove the concrete countertop without destroying the cabinets? Another question: Are there products you could pour over the contcrete to change the look and seal it better? Thank you.
I lay hardie board down and screw of down from the under side. Screw your mesh fasteners down into the hardie and boom it’s removable
Do you have a video on the finishing and sealing process? I would imagine that is critical as porous as concrete is. Can sealant be added directly to the concrete mix?
Just curious, it looks like you poured over the lip of the sink that was laying on the concrete board. So is that sink permanent at this point? As in, you would have to destroy the counter edge to remove it?
Was about to ask the same question!
Yes the concrete is poured over the lip so If you have to remove the sink you would cut out and replace with a drop in. Not an ideal scenario but most stainless still sinks are expected to last 30-50 years without issue.
@@WhatTheFlipShow thank you!
how much of the back form shows when countertops are complete? Getting ready to do this project tomorrow, but still having a hard time understanding the back form after the countertops set up before adding backsplash.
The back mold is visible but is covered by the backsplash.
Is it possible to put another granite slab on top of concrete slab?
looks awesome!! i hope to do this in my new super crappy house!
I've always seen how people pour it in a form off-site and it seemed like theres always issues doing it that way, it'll break during transportation, the rebar will sink to the bottom in the form during curing (which is the top of the countertop once in place making the rebar visible) or the shape just gets wrong. This has stopped me from wanting to pour my own countertop. Puring it on the spot is really cool and eliminates these issues. Now I do want to pour my own countertop.
It’s the best!
We poured ours into a melamine mold in three equal 36" sections, then used non-sag sealer between the sections, chipped the edges with a small hammer, covered it in epoxy, and tossed color chips/chunky gold glitter flakes in the wet epoxy. It looks great.
What does it look like now? And is there a way to change the sink after all this?
Just discovered the video, looks like this install was just over 2 years ago. Any update on how the countertop has performed so far?
Do you have to use concrete board underneath or can use use something like plywood?
So happy I discovered you guys! I am not a DIYer AT ALL, lol, but I love all your ideas and enjoy watching your videos.
This comment! Thank you so much for checking us out!!
Did you ad anything at the end?
Just a silicone acrylic sealer to the countertops.
Does the concrete stain easily? Example, kid coloring all over it or just a simple grease stain?
Once you seal the countertops we haven’t had any issues with staining in the past.
@@WhatTheFlipShow Perfect!!! We are considering giving this a shot! Thanks for the awesome, warm-hearted tutorial!!! ❤️
Which type of concrete mix did you use? I'm guessing its not regular cement you buy in the bags.
Hi Sarah! The cement is and it isn't regular. We bought the molds from @zcounterform and they sell a product called "Liquicrete". Basically its an additive mixture that you mix with sand topping cement. You can buy regular @sakrete or @quikrete sand topping mix. It makes the concrete pourable so it can flow between the fiberglass mesh and it makes it easier to work with. Hope this help!
@@WhatTheFlipShow thank you so much. Yes it helps alot.
Anytime! If you ever have questions feel free to reach out or DM on Instagram!
Dance break earned you a sub. Trying these in my house this weekend. Wish me luck!!
Good Luck!!!!!
AND? How did it work out???
@@kynoconceptsenalleswatdaar499 Mine turned out well. I didn't mix thick enough the first batch so I had to go a 2nd round. But now I love them
How to remove the board underneath the concert which you put before pouring?
Is the sink pinned in there forever. How do you replace the sink in the future?
Hi great work!, which sealer did you applied for this countertops?, and did you struggled due to the drysanding?, thanks.
We used the Z SiAcryl sealer from the same company that makes the forms. It seals without changing the color much. Dry sanding is a dusty process but it prevents the countertops from having the “polished” look. When polishing the countertops the aggregate is more visible and gives the countertop a salt and pepper finish that we don’t like as much as the flat consistent grey look of the concrete.
@@WhatTheFlipShow @What The Flip Thanks for the quick answer, yeah it is just that we are having some installers working on a concrete Island, but the sealer they applied is peeling off, the other issue is that the sealer seems to be solvent based with some VOCs (which can't be good). they dry sanded but with 300grit I think and a non-orbital sander. After little research online many people mention dry sanding is not the best since it doesn't create enough porosity, but it is great that it worked out for you!.
Concrete is already extremely porous material which is why it needs to be sealed. Wet sanding is mainly used to help cut down on the dust and so more aggressive sanding and polishing can be done. I hate that the sealer is peeling off. I would definitely look into Concrete Solutions SiAcryl it’s silicone acrylic and it has always worked great for us. Good Luck!
Was the sink on top of the backer board? Poured the concrete on top. If so, that sink would not be able to be removed. Right?
Has to be cut out and replaced with a drop in. It’s one of the downsides to this method but sinks last 30+ years so it’s worth it to us.
How did you install the sink?? Under or between board and concrete?
You guys make it look so easy! Tempted to try this when we move into our new house. 🥴
Do it!!!
Question what tool is that your using to vibrate the edges of your countertop
They look wicked i would be interested to see how the product holds up after a few months
Very nice! Great job! I've been wanting to do this for YEARS in my kitchen! And, my floors!!
Thank you!
One more thing. You did an amazing job polishing it. Looks beautiful
Thanks a lot 🙏
Was it cheaper to make a countertop compared to get a quarts?
Yes a lot cheaper!
Okay this is the third video I’ve accidentally watched of y’all and I’m now officially a fan.
Sub’d AF!
Gotta’ love happy accidents😁 Thanks for checking us out!!!
Did y’all do anything specific to get that color of gray? That’s EXACTLY what I want & I’m scared I’ll get other tones I’ve seen online
That’s the natural color! Some bags of Sand Topping mix (the cement we used) can be a bit warmer almost beige. So just check a few different brands. Also we used SiCryl sealer from Concrete Countertop Solutions, and that causes the color to darken slightly but keep it looking natural. Also try a test piece first to get the hang of the process and see if you are happy with the color!
As a fellow extreme DIYer, and video creator - this video is phenomenal! Subscribed!
Beautiful but.. where did you guys get the cabinet handles 😍
I love the work you guys do..but what faucet you use for the sink? I can't find one that is over 3"
Standard Faucets should work.
This is the one we used 👇
Flynt Brushed Nickel 1-Handle Deck-Mount Pull-Down Handle Kitchen Faucet (Deck Plate Included) www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-Brushed-Nickel-1-Handle-Deck-Mount-Pull-Down-Handle-Lever-Commercial-Residential-Kitchen-Faucet/1001368238
Thank you
Just about to dive into doing some countertops using this system. Great helpful video. I'm looking into using some pigment color to give a slightly warm gray concrete. Nothing that looks brown by any means, but ever so slight warm gray versus plain or cool gray. In one of your replies you mentioned the sakrete makes a slightly warmer gray than the quikrete when mixed with liqui-crete. That sakrete may do the trick rather than having to add in some pigment color. If I add in pigment, I have no idea how I would color a slurry to fix any bubbles or pinholes after the fact and have it match perfectly. Also, do you all have any experience with Z counter's other sealers or only the siacryl-14? I'm on the fence on what sealer would work best and whether to go matte or gloss on the finish.
We have only used sicryl as we want the finish to be as matte as possible. But I highly recommend making a test piece. And once you get the look you want remember the ratio you used so you can get a consistent look in your mix as well as when you go to patch pinholes.
What is the 'cement board' made of - if it isn't cement ? ... and could the water leak between the cement and the sink (around the rim of the sink) ?
Cementitious backer board, such as Hardie Board or Durock, is a substrate commonly used for tile. It is cement and reinforced with fiberglass and creates a bond with the concrete. If doing an under mount sink the seam between the metal and concrete is sealed with silicone caulk to prevent leaks.
Are you building this on top of al already existing countertop? What if I do not have a countertop at all? Can this be build stand alone and then put in place afterwards?
No you do not pour over existing countertops. Rewatch the video or check out the detailed manufacturers video linked in the description.
I had tile countertops and we pulled the tile up, which left the 3/4 inch plywood. Can I concrete over the plywood, or do I need to put down the cement board?
This is very nice. My question is: the base upon which you pull the concrete mix, when the concrete drys up, do you remove it or you leave it there?
The base is cement backer board and forms a permanent bond with the concrete when dry.
This soothed my quick fix need by giving me a dopamine hit through vicariously living as I dreamed of the day I will get to do this in my own house and while i probably won't. Nah just kidding. I definitely will be doing this and I enjoyed the video and channel name too. And I appreciate it.
Can you share the link for where to buy all the products?
Just poured mine. What did you use for the final sanding?
We sometimes only go as high grit as 220. We try and get the countertops as smooth as we can with the trowel because the more you sand the more aggregate becomes visible, which gives the countertop a salt-n-pepper look. Then we sealed with si-cryl acrylic sealer.
Hey, I was wondering, at the end, it looked like you sanded the top of the concrete. Where you grinding it down?
Sanding is removing small amounts of material but it isn’t necessarily “grinding it down” since we are using such a high grit. We did this to smooth the surface vs polishing the concrete to keep a natural finish.... polish makes the finish look like salt and pepper as more aggregate shows through. Hope this helps.
you guys are amazing. Great work on the countertop.
How long you have to wait after pour?
Did you add color to the concrete?
Hi Sam, we didn’t color the concrete and tried to keep it looking as natural as possible. We only sealed it with SiCryl sealer from the Manufacturer of the molds.
Are you able to see the cement board from the face of the counter top?
No it is completely concealed.
Okay awesome thanks. I just noticed the form drops over the edge of the concrete board.
It’s a pretty cool design, that cavity feels with cement and when you snap away the form the concrete hides the cement board.
How long does something like this last? Ever any issues with cracking?
I am getting ready to do a lot smaller countertop in my bathroom. How did you figure the faucet hole? What size of hole saw did you use? Nice video
Hey Bill, thanks for watching. It’s a 2 5/8” Hole saw. Typically for a sink you want to align the drain to be centered in between the cabinet doors (if there are any on the cabinet holding the sink). Then center the faucet inline with the drain and have enough clearance between the back wall and the sink. I dry fit the sink and faucet in the Hardie Backer Board before pouring the concrete just to make sure I’m happy with the look. Hope this helps. Good luck with your project, let us know how it goes, and subscribe for more!
That was awesome thank you! Did you use the sealer?
I want to do this while leaving my back splash in place any suggestions
That would be tough because you have to be able to screed and trowel all the way to the back of the mold to make smooth and the backsplash would prevent that. You could possibly remove the bottom few rows of the back splash and then replace when finished but it would be easier to add a new back splash.
How many bags of sandtopings did you use
Depends on the size of your countertops. I can’t remember for this project as it was some time ago. But the website that sales the system had a calculator to help you estimate.
Looks good what sealer did you guys use on it? I just poured mine last night and am still debating what sealer to use.
Hi mason, The company that sold the forms is concrete countertop solutions. They have a product called SiCryl which is a sealer that doesn’t add much sheen or change the color. We loved the way the raw matte concrete looked and wanted to keep the finish pretty close to that and the SiCryl does a great job.
Great work guys, videography was epic too
More amazed with the video quality than the countertop! The countertop looks great too. Keep up the great work, definitely have a lot of potential and realism in these videos!
Thanks alot we really appreciate that!
Alright, we’ll catch you on the flip side- DOINK! I’m dying here! Great video!
Have you used 1 box of liquicrete to 60lb Sandmix? Or I bag from the box?
Super nice video btw ...thank you!
One bag from the box per 60lb bag! And thanks for watching!!!
If its a mixer...what's the combination?
I replied to your other comment. But just to be sure you see this its one bag of Sand Topping Mix (from quikrete or sakrete) mixed with 1 bag of Liquicrete from www.concretecountertopsolutions.com The same company that sells the forms.
Do you seal these tops at all? Looks amazing!
We used SiCryl acrylic sealer from Concrete Countertop Solutions it maintains he natural look of concrete.
What is the name of the music in the background? Please and thank you
At what part?
Looks good, but what about some preparations and durability:
- as concrete is heavy did you make any work of making studs stronger in the basement? Otherwise cracks would appear shortly
- what was added to a concrete to absorb dirt? is it waterproof?
- would be great to check the result based on daily experience after some time.
Thanks for sharing though
This was in a cinderblock house with steel beam joists so weight was not an issue. Most homes built to code can handle the weight unless the joists are spaced to far. A bigger concern would be using cheap or damaged cabinet boxes as they may not support the weight. We have also done these for years and they hold up great.
What did you seal it with?
Great filming guys. Very professional and good music, not to mention a great finished countertop...Respect.
Thanks so much for checking us out! We’re just livin’ it up 😉
What concrete did you end up using? Did you use any color enhancer? I noticed you did not use the Counterform concrete they offer. I was going to do their white, but I think I like the gray you all came out with. Thanks.
@Quikrete Sand topping mix has a nice light grey color. I like Sakrete as well but thought their color was on the warmer beige side and I like the neutral grey.
Did the concrete appear beige while drying? If so how long did it take to see the the natural grey color you finished with? Thanks!
Nadeshot is doing home improvement now. Nice!
I get that a lot 😂
At 1;30 WHY are you holding the fiber board on the 48 inch side instead of the 24 inch???? WHY
I have one question though..... What if something goes wrong with the kitchen sink or you have to replace the kitchen sink one day? How the heck do you get it out, it's concreted in! Does that mean you have to rip up all of your concrete countertops and completely replace them too?
You would just cut the sink out and replace with a drop in. Stainless steel sinks are generally rated for 15-30 years so it shouldn’t be a common issue.
What did you all seal the countertops with??
SiCryl it’s a silicone acrylic sealer sold by Concrete Countertop Solutions. Keeps the color looking natural!
did you pour the concrete over a top mount sink? is it concreted in now?
Hi Chris! Thanks for watching! It’s an undermount sink and it is placed between the concrete and the backer board. This is the way the system is designed. The sink is rated for 15-30 years so I expect by the time the sink needs to be swapped the countertops would be do for an update as well. But if for some reason you wanted/needed to swap sinks you would cut out the sink and replace with a drop in top mount sink. Hope this helps!
How much sanding did do and what did you use?
Hi Scott. Depending on how well you smoothed the surface during the steel trowel phase determines how much sanding needs to be done. We started with 80 grit and worked up to 320 and worked through the grits quickly so we didn’t over sand. Over sanding makes the aggregate more visible giving the concrete a salt and peppery finish. We like a more matte finish. If you want a glossy finish you can use higher grits and even a polisher, however you won’t get the typical grey concrete look and more of that salt and pepper finish. Hope this helps. Subscribe for more and let us know how your project turns out!
You put the backer board down, then the sink, then the concrete? What happens if you need/ want to replace the sink?
Great question. That is how the system is designed so if there is an issue with the sink it would have to be cut out and replaced with a drop in. Luckily stainless steel sinks routinely last 30+ years.
this is a fun video and your post production work
is nice.
Appreciate that!
With the under mounted sink... did you buy an actual under mount sink or a regular sink? Im just confused because it looks like a regular sink and the concrete is just poured around it to make it look under mounted and also will you not be able to change the sink without removing the countertops?
It is an under mounted sink, that is the way this system is designed. Typically you can get 30 years out of a quality stainless steel sink. If it needs to be changed however you will have to cut out the sink and replace with a drop in. Hope this helps!
One of the better I've seen - great job!
“With a “WHOLE”saw?, “a few beads of silicone”? GENIUSES.
All the way from trinidad cant wait to do mines
🎉Thanks for checking us out Karfeisha!!!
I just tried to look up the prices forgot I that stuff.am I wrong or is it $149 for 8 ft piece and 8ft piece for the back. Just curious how much the snap stuff is.
Those turned out awesome! Did you guys add any color?
Thanks Jacob! Check out the latest video to see the full kitchen Reno! As far as the color we left it natural because we love the modern/industrial vibe of natural concrete. However the color will vary depending on the brand of cement. We also used a silicone acrylic sealer which added just a hint of gloss and slightly darkened the finish. Hope this helps.
@@WhatTheFlipShow thanks! Definitely helped. I’m ordering stuff from concrete countertop solutions today
Use the code FLIP10 for 10% off!
Wait, do you have to seal it?
I would really love to see the finishing countertop.. this video is only half of what am looking for.. thought u would have shown how the epoxy was going to be used .
No expoxy. It’s sicryl acrylic sealer from the countertop manufacturer. You just roll it on with a paint roller and you’re good to go 👍
and the hand print? and date
How much did it cost ?
About how much did the entire project cost?
Like it. Creat more info for peeps trying flip them self. Like product and sources. And hard money. Thnks
We’re glad you enjoyed it! Stay tuned for more to come! 🙌🏻
Did I just like before watching the video?😁
🙏🙏🙏
I just did my countertops and they came out very rough. My guess is we didn't finish trowel them enough. There is a lot of sand/small aggregate on top. even when you rin your hand across it, it comes off Can we just keep sanding until smooth?
Could be a few issues, might not have mixed the concrete throughly enough, might not allowed enough cure time before sanding, and of course you may not have finished troweled them well enough. You may be able to keep sanding, start with 80 grit and work your way up to the higher grits like 320/400 if necessary. Aggregate will be visible but it’s important that they are smooth. Also sealing the countertops will add slight additional smoothness. Hope this helps!
Thank you for the quick reply!
@@WhatTheFlipShow hello, we have the same problem, and we really hate how the agregate shows in the surface, so we are thinking of pour a slurry made just with cement, water , no sand and stone, and industrial white glue, used in concrete for the bond, between old surface and the new one we are about to pour, so what do you think? Thank you
did you apply caulk to the sink...between it and the form?
We did run a small bead under the sink, it may not even be necessary with the weight of the concrete pressing down in the lip.
Thank you guys for the video? My wife and I are also wanting concrete countertops, but I'm not sure I'm understanding correctly. If I'm purchasing the white countertop concrete mix from concrete solutions - I should mix it with the liqui-crete?
I think due to the mixture required I don’t think the white countertops can be made with the liquicrete system. I think they have to be made with rebar and packed in if I’m not mistaken but check with the manufacturer. Also if you do decide on concrete countertops use code FLIP10 for 10% off.
@@WhatTheFlipShow thank you!! And I used the promocode as well. Always good to save a few bucks.
Thus was great, love the humor
What thickness of cement board please?
We used 1/2” durock for this video.
It's wicked..... just loving it
Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
that's so cool!! It gives me courage for mine :) Question: have you considered incorporating a pre built concrete sink? I'd do it but it makes me nervous ...
Hmmm not sure if we’ve seen that in a kitchen. Most of the prebuilt concrete sinks we’ve seen are for bathrooms and they sit on top of the counter, so not sure how that would work.
Where do i find the full video
Linked in the video description
This was so cute and helpful~ Thank you
What was the final cost of this project?
Thanks! You guys are fun!
Thanks for checking us out!
Would you say you had too many air pockets along the edge due to the concrete thickness? Think about doing this instead of a 12k quartz counter
We love concrete countertops!! And with proper vibration you can get minimal air holes. We like the look of the tiny imperfections in concrete but you can patch the holes with a slurry if you want a cleaner look!
Look at reverse cast countertops.. you can use regular concrete, cost is minimal and you get a flawless finish. Way easier and less expensive than this method..
Enjoyed watching, thanks
Lovely. And beautiful job. Very professional .
Thanks Roberto! Subscribe for more. We’d love to have you on the ride along with us!
I love the look of this, great job.
What did you use to vibrate the sides?
It looks like an orbital sander.
Anything to tap the air out, pencil vibrator on the side, Orbital sander, oscillating tool works good, they actually make a flat blade for an oscillating tool but any thing to vibrate it, even tapping it with a screwdriver or such seems to work.
Awesome video! Thank you very much. And I do believe your countertop is sauce!