CUT 50 Ebay Plasma Cutter is Driving Me CRAZY! It's fixed now.
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- Опубликовано: 11 мар 2012
- Amazon has the same cutter in red color and a different name for about $400! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004...
The clamp inside the gun came undone. IT WORKS AWESOME NOW! CUT 50 Ebay Plasma Cutter is Driving Me CRAZY! Please help! 
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@kidjellesed Turns out this one has no pilot and you MUST contact the work at all times. They call it a "drag gun" I just didn't have air flow because a clamp came undone.
Thank you for your interest in helping me out here! A hold off gun like many expensive models require that type of technique. This model is a made in China "drag gun" meaning you make contact between the clean work surface and the tip. The tip has a "+" sign stamped in it's face to provide four channels for debris to escape. The best method I've found (now that the thing is fixed) is to hold it facing straight down. See the video "plasma cutter victory"
Haha 8 years ago pilot arc was almost unheard of lol. Now you can get one for 200 bucks
Make a cup from metal that fastens over the cup to maintain the proper height. Cut four notches in the metal cup , and use aluminum wire or copper wir pieces inserted in to start the arc. The wire pieces will blow out leaving the cutting arc going. You have a contact type cutter, others use a non-contact style which has a starting arc without touching. Mine is the same as yours. You need to maintain a constant height, which the metal cup will give you. The notches will let you see where you are cutting. You can also take a straight piece of aluminum wire with a wood dowel on the end for a handle, to insert temporarily for starting, but the short wire pieces work better as the arc blows them out of the way. The cup fastens in the groove with set screws, lightly, to hold it on. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the post. This exchange helped cure similar symptoms for me.
@screamineagle88 You're RIGHT!!! The air hose clamp was crap and the air hose blew off. It's fixed and working great now- thanks!
I fix that problem of touching the metal part with the tip to start the arc, changing the ground cable for a new one and clean the clamp as well. the cable needs to be good gauge (12 or 10 gauge)
You have a 'drag tip' commonly known as a 'scratch tip', you have to stay in contact with the metal, you cannot keep trying to keep a distance from the metal. Your friend must have a 'pilot arc' tip which cuts without touching the metal. whenever you see the cutting sparks bounce sideways or at you, you are cutting too fast, this back spark is what's destroying your tip. Also try setting amps to 45 or 50.
Yeah the pt31 is a drag tip torch
i have a berlan , got it off ebay .as far as cutting goes its excellent ,cuts through 12mm steel easy enough and hasn`t given me any cause for concern in the 2 years ive had and its been a hard 2 years for it .
YOU are spot on! Thank you so much for looking out for me like that. I DID figure the problem out. I did a follow up vid called "Plasma cutter VICTORY!" The air hose clamp was not sealed up from the factory. Once that was replaced it did great. YOU are a smart guy! I've built a winch bumper with it and as you said about 65 psi is perfect and you do have to scratch start or drag the gun. "drag gun" People like you are a boon to the internet!
1. You’re not supposed to melt the metal around. Either you’re cutting too hot ( reduce amps, increase cutting advance speed) or blow too weak ( increase air pressure to around 70psi). Some machines works with as low as 45psi, good for them. Mine says 72psi.
2. The nozzle should not scratch-start. This indicates a molten electrode. I start the cut on the edge of the metal then I can even increase the gap. Then I adjust the speed to see the cut through.
3. Someone says you can drag the nozzle on material. I won’t do that cause will overheat and wear it off fast. It is consumable, but no need to consume it faster. Keep the gap at 1/8” and the nozzle will survive, is actually the electrode inside the nozzle which wears out first. There are wire guides or roller guides to attach to ceramic head to allow you maintaining the gap.
4. Now regarding the cut amperage. Here different machines will advertise different cut depths at the same amperage. This should not happen. I guess some torches are better than others when I see severance cut of 3/4” at 50 amps on some machines while mine hardly does 1/2”, I guess is only in the nozzle of the torch.
@GarrettJDB That's about right- it's fixed now- it was a poor grade clamp on the air hose inside the gun.
You're right. I used it to build a basket ball standard back board. I make contact the whole way the whole time.
how far is your torch from the work? It looked like your standoff was significant, and also as soon as the cheaper consumables have wear, they dramatically affect your cut.
more up air pressure and make sure metal paint off or rust clean real good for ground clamp ! tip to metal between 1/4 to 1/2 inches so wont burn tip !
I'm having the same problem with my new cut 50- can't get the arc startd without burning out my tips. what was your solution to that problem?
I had one like that you bought a non pilot arc plasma cutter so you have to strike off and then as soon as the arc is initiated pull back to about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the plate you will not blow tips but you still get what you payed for
Your trying to use it like its a pilot arc cutter and its not. It requires contact with the material being cut to work. To minimize consumables being burnt up quickly hold the torch at a slight angle so that the edge of the copper tip touches but not the center. Also make sure you have heavy 10ga power cable and 220v feeding the cutter. Some of those Chinese cutters say they will work with 110v but when you turn them up past 20-30 amps they will start cutting in and out. I have a Ramsond Cut50 and I've sliced and diced 4x10 sheets of 10 ga steel and change the tip every 4-5 sheets.
HI, i am having the exact same issue how did you end up fixing it?
Hello I ‘need some advice please if
possible on a ct 312 plasma cutter . baffles me, only
works tiny bit when assembled really loosely that bad it
jiggles and electrode pushed to one side, not when
done up assembled properly ,the spark gap I believe
correct also air pressure 4 bar I've tried slight ajustments
each way with pressure. reading 70 volts off 30 amp
when tested with multimeter at the inside of brass
thread on gun and same when assembled wet loosely in
angle as mentioned above but not direct if tip when
assembled properly . It just will not ark up , and even
changed to a new torch and with consumables. Could
someone tell me please what I should be reading voltage
wise or why it won't work. Thanks
I have one of these and it works great, make sure there is no water at all in your air, always maintain tip contact with work piece, make sure the area you are cutting is clean as to maintain good contact. I make templates or use a straight edge to help guide the tip and have made good smooth cuts in 1/2" steel. Consumables last a long time. Look on eBay for cut 50 extended consumables they work even better.
I learned all of this the hard way through trial and error so I hope this saves someone some time and aggravation, I'm very happy with this cutter now.
I don't understand. I'm new to plasma cutters; bought a cut 50, but can't figure out how to start the arc without touching the work, which instantly melts the tip. Would you be willing to explain it to me, please?
My cut50 you drag the tip on the metal
From what I have learned so far those little cheap plasma cutters are the type that you have to keep the tip in contact with the metal to cut it properly. If you are holding it away from the metal, then the arc is burning up your tips. Either that or you simply have an airflow problem.
I have the same like you, is the compressor the air you need at least 70 psi
seen from the video, it appears less bulky air compressor, plama cutter cut 50 must use a minimum of 120 Lt / min with a minimum pressure of 4 bar. I hope this helps.
hey brian make sure ur ground is getting good contact. i always clean the metal where the ground clamp connects to the material im cutting
Was wanting to see the clamp you were talking about, and see how it was cutting after you replaced /reattached/re-positioned said clamp. Q: How far into vid is it?
That's right. The part I said may spin- doesn't. It just sits in there and the air has to pass through it.
You have a drag tip style cutter it has to touch to arc. Jack up the air and tilt the head of the torch
i had similar problem, grind the airia were thwe earth lead attaches, must have a realy good earth
The. Torches these units come with are drag type. Do not try.to lift it off the metal after it starts, just drag it
Instal a ground ti the tip just add one wire from the tip to ground and you are giant to convert a pilot machine,this way it will igniting before you get to the metal you are cutting,also check the air seems like you don’t have much pressure set it to 60 psi pressure,
i have a CUT60 that have a very similar problem. but when problem occur my tip doesn't glow red hot like yours. i discover that if i decrease the air flow between 40 to 70 PSI it works fine and cuts 1/2inch of steel like a hot knife on butter. any thing over 70 the plasma will fail. those plasma cutters are arc start meaning that the tip has to engage with the work piece or ground in order for the current to pass through therefore the torch will throw an plasma.
ALWAYS have clean air and a good ground. very important
I'm in need of a plasma cutter, and I found the exact one you linked on Amazon. Does your link give you a sort of referral thing? If so, I'm definitely using your link when I buy it.
Another problem that may have added to your problem is that it looks to me like most of the time, you are facing the tip directly at where you are trying to cut. That will make the heat go right back to the tip and waste it like what seemed to be happening with you. Always cut at an angle. Drag the cutter along where you want. Some people tend to push along the cut. But it's like welding. If you are moving toward the weld, you create slag which really reduces the chance of getting a good bead.
not enough air coming through the tip you have air leak pryer to the handle
do you have a container of water close by when using the plasma cutter,to prevent fluid of enetering your lungs something like that.
Check the arc gaps to see if they're clean. If they're dirty, perhaps that would be the cause?
1 mm distance from work on these scratch arc cut 50's. I find it easier to work with the material i am cutting horizontal if possible. Start the arc at a slight bias, not perpendicular and work from the edge toward the terminus. It is what it is, i need to put in a dedicated 30 amp or larger circuit. If I can use my port-a-band for a straight cut, probably will do that. Out of the box I cut a ^^^ zigzag tooth pattern out of a 3/16 commercial mower deck and it was adequate for that purpose, good box to learn with.
Ok, don't jump all over me if I'm wrong, but I'm just looking to buy my first Plasma cutter, and have been getting advice from not only videos but I call welding shops and ask questions as well... Looks to me that you didn't buy a "Pilot-Arc" welder and just got an older style "Scratch" Welder... Most of the "Newer" Plasma-Cutters 2016 - 2017 are "Pilot-Arc" (You don't have to touch it to get it started...) They are not that much more money and from what I'm told is much easier on Consumables as well... I'm looking at the Simadre 70SP 70A that has the Pilot Arc so I can make some Thick steel shooting targets, but I'm on a tight budget and have to wait a few more weeks... But anyone that hasn't bought a Plasma Cutter yet make sure you get one with the "PILOT-ARC"... And as far as What brand to get I was told is like this, if you only plan on using it once a month or less you can buy most any brand as you get what you pay for, but if Welding is your job, Stick to the top brands as they are a tax right-off anyways and will last longer and you get better service and more places you can get parts that day... Cheaper ones you may have to wait a week or more to get a part... Also anyone that have used a 2016 or 2017 Simadre-70SP let me know if you have any problems... Thanks and Hope that helps....
Also the tip size should be what you normally use. I think last time I got replacement tips that are a "1.0". If you go too small and too high current it won't work will melt the tip. Nothing spins in my torch tip.
These plasma cutters are fitted with drag tips your meant to drag it over the work not hold a gap.
You have to drag the tip like you do with a Arc Welder.
It will then arc and start burning.
ok so you say its fixed now ?? so what was the problem ??
having same thought, damn cutter was working great, I plugged in the 220 V extension and move it 3-4 feet, and where I was working on the Ford, and it stopped working, I can get the arc to start but it won't remain on....sometimes it won't even arc...off to check air pressure, and ground....maybe the rust is a problem ? Shouldn't it cut through rust ?
What do you think the model LT5000D on amazon and walmart? the review is really good.
Hard starting could be from a little too much air pressure. The burning of consumables and heavy slag is most likely from too much power for the thickness of metal. Might be easier to learn if the metal is horizontal.
It's a long shot, but check your ground. I've been right where you are before, and better cuts came from a better ground for me. Also it fixed my no start problem. I wasn't able to strike it off like a arc welder how you showed yours is working. Totally looks like a bad ground to me.
@briansmobile1 Great! Glad to hear it. Now you can post a vid and let everyone know what the problem was, how you fixed it, and let them see what it does after it's working good.
Bad ground problem?
In my experience its either condemnation from the air comes into the line and fills it with water and a bad ground
Thank you for your review i saw these and was put off with the trigger doesn't even look like a quality item..I hope you opened a case and got it resolved..I would have went for a second hand one and went to pick it up to see it working before i purchase one..I heard of loads of issues with welding gear and the plasma cutters..They just look tatty and cheap looking..Hope you get it resolved pal.!
I think atcalab is correct. Or there isn't enough potential difference (Voltage) between the tip and the work piece via the ground clamp-plasma cutter control box-tip circuit.
Good luck! I enjoy your videos and am learning from them .
Roy Lewis Buffalo, New York, USA
when u press the button u should hear a spark chatter in the machine, just a crackel
I have worked on one or 2 in my life time I found the ground wire going from the tip to the control board was loose and sometimes its bad . You need to turn it off unplug it then take a meter put it on Ohmes setting then check the ground wire on the tip to the wire connection on the control board . It should be 0 ohmes . If any thing higher that a few ohmes it may be a broken wire in the line . If you can let me know where a schematic is on line I will run tru it and tell you where to check it.
What was the solution?
@rtzapper The Air hose clamp came off at the gun. It ROCKS now!
I'm having same issue today, first time, ran through all but one set of consumables.. Was air leak the culprit?
try adding some copper wire around the tip that will extend it to make a circuit, it will start it and just destroy the wire instead of the cutting head
one thing that machine you have is not a pilot arc cutter that is a strike to arc and works best if tip is touching your metal
Ground?
Connect your ground on the back of your machine to your work area. Plus your ground that you got hooked up to your work area already and it should work.
like the other guy said check out welding tips and tricks for advice, i dont think your doing anything wrong, and im sure you can fix the machine good luck dude
Another video on you tube shows to go slower and the blow has to have a way to escape under or it will bounce back up and burn out the tip
KEEP THE TIP ON YOUR WORK DONT HOLD IT AWAY FROM IT
Hey Brian I ment the consumeables off e-bay, not the machines, they do make decent machines for the money and lots of people have had lots of suscess.
Looking at your cuts at the end of the video... that's not slag, it's melted like a welder. You need way more air pressure. I've got the SG-55 torch. Look on ebay for consumables.
Aluminum doesn't stick. Ignite it in grounded aluminum first.
If it's pilot arc get a ag60p torch
Its a scratch start cutter isnt it? It hasnt got a a hf start.
That is a PT-31 plasma tip, you just put the tip on the work piece and just drag it along, mate. You don't need to make the space between the metal and the nozzle. I have been using Chinese made plasma cutter for years. They are great for value as long as you know how to use it.
chirots I had same issue as the guy on the video, I then read your post and tried putting the tip on the work before you press trigger, and then dragging it it works great now. Many thanks
What about ag-60?
Does ag-60 tip work touching too?
my first time using the pt31, resulted the same with your experience, that is the drag tip sticking to the metal to be cut. I try to understand how the drag tip/ electrode nozzle works and i think the drag tip should not be touching the electrode. there is a swirl/insulator between the drag tip and the electrode and if you tighten the cup too much, the electrode will be in contact with the drag tip, and resulting in a hot/energize drag tip. the ideal is the drag tip should be at the same potential as the metal to be cut, creating a potential difference between the drag tip and the electrode, thereby creating an arc.
The ag 60 is a drag tip unless you get the ag 60p that is a pilot arc torch
I wanted to see how the consumables went into the gun but it was all out of the shot. Anyway thanks for the video.
It looks like your doing more welding on it then cutting. Is it me or does it sound like there isn't enough air comming through the gun? All the cutters I've ever heard sound like an air gun. This one sounds like there is little to know pressure coming out of it. Like your blowing through a straw. This could be your problem.
@curtis9188 Thanks for the encouragement man!
It's IS right - you get what you pay for BUT ...
I have a Cut40 too "Made in Hing Kong in a hurry" and it's working fine - even though it have a very crappy torch like yours !
I think you have too little air pressure - you should have your pressure WHILE cutting - look at the dial - do you have enough pressure WHILE cutting ? I don't think so.
I started up with way too small a compressor - when I got a bigger one it works fine for me.
@jazzy4me4eva The box is great-- the gun isn't.
check out the videos from Pete's tools on RUclips. They have a ton of information on these plasma cutters.
just goes to show that sometimes researching before doing things pays off... like researching how to plasma cut lol.
The machine had a factory defect. Once corrected, it worked great. Also this modle is designed to make contact.
As I was a Riland Dealer, On the 40,and the 60, I used the cut 60 Torch on Both! and I use the 50 ft. Torches,That Looks Like a 40 amp Torch,as the 60's Have a Button Built in Handle!,And All that ive sold and use,the 60's are red,and the 40's are black,with,thePush Button,thats on with a couple of rubber Bands!, I Prefer, On All my machines, Magnetic Ground,and 2 Water separors,1 on the back of mach.that comes with it,and the Other on my comp.Been Kicking the S**out of ours for 5 yea!RanOtOf
Actually the provided torch is no good for over 40A, but that is still enough to easily cut that metal thickness if all else is OK. Lower the amperage to 40 A and do something with air supply. It's obviously too low. The provided filter-regulator is also crap and if you have decent oil-free compressed air in your shop throw it away and use the compressor regulator at about 5 bar with not too long air hose. Never use an angle and distance combination on the tip that will block the air flow, even for a second. This runins the tip.
I have a 15A circuit at home, will I get away with using it or will it flip the breaker?
I ran a similar Cut50 unit at 20A on a 200V-20A breaker, and it usually flipped the breaker after a minute or so. I think 15A will only cut really thin material on the order of maybe 2mm.
weldingtips&tricks is also a very good channel
you need a pilot arc plasma.
Hi guys
i think ur wrong using this machine. i have the same and u to touch the metal you're cuting not like tig .
try and u will save en replaces
Run a ground wire to the tip and make it pilot arc
Where's the fixed? Didn't see it in the video
more air pressure bro , get that air cranking threw the nozzle even if you take the psi up to 80
I bought a hobart 500i and it has been excellent right from the start. I have one issue though and that's the safety latch on the torch. it's a real pain to release . got to be a better design. a tad more money than Chinese but it's great and the cosumables are miller.
that tip youy showing looks to me to be a tip for dragging
55air pressure minimum for four mm
@briansmobile1 Well thats better than replacing a internal electronic part.
I doubt he has a high frequency start. It appears to be a touch start. He appears to be trying to learn cutting very thick metal. He should start with thinner metal to get use to using it.
Well it looks like you get what you pay for. I have a Miller and its great.
Make sure the inside of the tip is not reversed, its looks as if it is , its easy t install the wrong way, Try reversing it
I had the exact same problem, except mine was worse. Most of the time it would even spark, After a week of thinking it was ME, doing something wrong, I returned it to Amazon... I used a multimeter and checked the voltage at no-load, it seamed right, if you can find info on it..
I think the voltage or current is erratic under load .. I think that just cuz it was very inconsistent..
I'm gonna buy another one.. Cheap China crap is great, except, you have to go though this kind of stuff once in a while..
not enougth air on the air compressor hte air compressor is to low for the tip
@screamineagle88 I did. It's up!
Brian, did you run 30 Amp power to this or did you install 50 Amp ? thanks
Brian, I bought 50 just in case, and tried the 30 A and 30 A worked just fine...(months ago)
very good I just replaced the cutting head on mine for a better torch i have a video on my channel
all the best
I've been using the Chinese Plasma cutters for years. The only way to get life out of the consumables is to crank up your air pressure, to atleast 60 plus psi. Once you have breached the metal you are cutting don't go faster then the cut is blowing the material through or you will ruin the tip/consumables. Air pressure is the ticket. I've had the Cut 80, the Cut 60, and the Cut 50, and each one of them required more air pressure than the manuals states.
Hello I need some advice please if
possible on a ct 312 plasma cutter . baffles me, only
works tiny bit when assembled really loosely that bad it
jiggles and electrode pushed to one side, not when
done up assembled properly ,the spark gap I believe
correct also air pressure 4 bar I've tried slight ajustments
each way with pressure. reading 70 volts off 30 amp
when tested with multimeter at the inside of brass
thread on gun and same when assembled wet loosely in
angle as mentioned above but not direct if tip when
assembled properly . It just will not ark up , and even
changed to a new torch and with consumables. Could
someone tell me please what I should be reading voltage
wise or why it won't work. Thanks
I can see varnish on steel
Do another video showing your mistake, no point in going on the way you are, touch the work & keep it touched that tip you have on is to keep that distance correct. So do the video showing your happy, we all learn via mistakes. but we can teach each other the mistakes.