Cut 50 Plasma Cutter Review
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Cut 50 Plasma Cutter Review
I got a couple of emails asking about the cheap $229 eBay plasma cutters from China. So I spent the cabbage and bought the Colossal Tech Cut 50, a 50 amp, non pilot-arc plasma cutter.
In this review we look over the unit, talk about what it can and can't do and you will see the power switch fail in the on position. This is not worth your hard earned money. You would be much better served buying the $650 unit from Harbor Freight. I've had one for quite a while and it's a great machine.
Here are a couple videos of it in use:
• Adventures in Welding ...
• Adventures in Welding ...
• Plasma Cutting Test Pl...
1) Slow down 2) Read user-manual 3) Better ground 4) More air 5) Mount consumables correctly 6) Don't do misinformation. I use the same one and It works fine!
You are absolutely right I was thinking the same things
How is the on off switch situation on your side ?
@@johanponin1360 See above from 3 years ago....."that switch is not broke its made to not let you turn it off untill it cools down so the fan stays on untill it cools that way the life of the machine is longer"
@@FPChris pretty interesting design
@@johanponin1360 Yeah. I have no clue. I'm looking for one to cut blades for a plastic shredder build :)
I've had my Cut 50 for over 2 years now. No issues at all and i cut all the time with it. If you are going to use the original torch then spend the couple extra bucks and get the nickel coated extended consumables. It will light off no problem. If you want to do away with the touch start you can spend $60 and get the P80 torch and you only have to push the button on the torch to light and it uses the same consumables as the original torch. Its getting comical how many people try to bash these little machines but they work pretty damn good for what you have to pay for them.
Just bought one, thanks for the info!!
I saw a guy cutting 1/2 inch plate with one of those cut 50s but I'm not sure which brand it was I don't know if it was the Colossal or not. But he said it was his first time using one. I have got two 8 by 16 foot pieces of 450 hardox that I'm going to be needing to cut and I'd like to have one of those torches to cut it with. I can cut it with no problem with my Lincoln oxy-acetylene but those plasma cutters really make a nice cut especially if you can mark it off and use a guide. I mean let's face it 450 hardox is damned expensive underline Damned! I wish my brother still had his setup. I'm not sure what that plasma cutter was but it was pretty decent. They only used it occasionally most his work he done with a torch and the welder with gouging rods.
your say you have had this unit for two years with no issues how much do you use and is it for long periods
you said you have had this unit for two years without any issues how often does this machine get used for i am thinking of purchasing one for cutting old body panels off a classic car i have purchased can you tell me also sorry to be a pain what warranty period does it have from the manufacturer's
GEORGE CLARKE it depends on the day. An hour or two at a time. If you are wanting to use the cut 50 as a commercial rate then I would recommend getting a Hypertherm. I’ve had this cut 50 for several years now and for a cheap beater plasma, I’ve been pretty pleased with it. I did have to adjust the high frequency start tips when o first got it. It will only run with the nickel consumables.
What a dope. First time through the 3/8" you went too fast; second time you did not have an adequate ground; third time you got lucky.
I thought my on-off switch was bad as it does not immediately shut off. It runs for about 30 seconds then shuts completely off because the fan needs to run a bit after use and before it shuts down. So I guess my switch is good and I was impressed at the cuts. I'm a hobby fabricator and some auto fab work that I use the machine for. So far all good as I still love the price and how it operates for that price, Thumbs up for me.....
exactly
antalamo agreed. It doesn't shut off immediately.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to review and post. A friend of mine purchased one of these and uses the hell out of it and it hasn't skipped a beat, but we did put more and larger fans on the unit. I think its well well worth the coin for the hobby guy, light utility mechanic or farmer. I had a large miller that cost me over $3K about 5 years ago and was stolen recently and good riddance to that POS. To be honest it wasn't worth it and when I did use it there was almost always an issue with it. To grab one of these for $229 US money and free shipping is still a bargain in my books. I ordered one today and can't wait to get it.
The machine has a safety buid in. It will not shut off until the fan cools it. By unplugging it, you run the risk of doing damage.
100%FACTS! 👍👍👍👍👍
i've got a similar model plasma cutter...just got a job cutting out 20 x 2mm steel letters for a sign...i changed the consumable tips 15 times.....glad it came with 50 tips !!!
Clamping that 3/8 piece down would help with the ground, also slow down a little and it will cut fine.
This guy video maker {@Adventures in Welding! } is a dumb ass idiot !
When you went from the center of the 3/8, you had to deal with heating the mass of the metal. When you went to the corner, the metal heated up, adding to your ability to cut through. Pre-heating is a common practice in welding, and apparently in cutting.
Joseph Massimino it is. 👍
I have an oxy torch next to me when cutting most material over 16mm. Makes hell of a difference... even on my big plasma.
Your air compressor kicks on about 15 sec after you start cutting AC is to small. the unit works fine > you don't have it grounded properly. I've seen other vid's reviewing this cutter and it works just fine. Operator error I would have to say.
Just bought a CUT50 on ebay $185.00. First time i ever used a plasma cutter, As far as i'm concerned IT ROCKS!!!!! never used 1 with a pilot arc so i wouldn't know the difference, but had no issues cutting a 3/8 piece of steel, having a good ground contact and compressor that supplied a steady 60 lbs of pressure. My Friend spent $2500.00 on his and as far as i'm concerned, for the money, this blows it away!
plus the CUT50 I bought has a 2 year manufacturers warranty if it breaks send it back to them they will fix or replace it free
you need to have a constant ground, not bouncing around all over the table. sounds like not a big enough compressor. and it stays on a little while after you shut the the power off to cool down.
Yes sir I can't see the compressor but it sounds to me like he is running a oil-less nail gun compressor. That's what mine sounds like.
you can tell by the direction the sparks are spraying if its cut through or needs more time -- if its not spraying down then you need to slow down to give it time to cut through.
You don’t have to pull the tip off the metal to cut,you’re not welding.
Probably didn’t turn off when you hit the switch because it was cooling down,give it a little time.
I have the same machine but it’s called a Vevor and I didn’t realize it kept the air flowing when I released the trigger to
cool the tip. Good machine,read the manual.
I have a cut 50 and have to say I am glad I got mine it's been a great addition to my workshop, It only gets used occasionally but I would not be without it I did all the sheet metal cutting for my jeep restorartion with it. I did have a small problem not long after buying it ,one of the big capacitors inside leaked but the seller sent me a new curcuit board in next post but I didn't use it as I replace all the caps with bigger better quality ones for little cost and it has worked well for a couple of years now.
If you plan to use a plasma a lot pay the money and get better quality but if it's just a hobby once in a while thing you can't go far wrong.
I've used the cutter and find for the money it does pretty well. the switch on mine broke as well. I just unplug it. I found that good dry air is a huge plus as well. saves a lot on consumables. also I don't have to arc it to get it to start, just lay tip on piece and drag it along. bumping pressure up a bit helps too. also like another poster said get higher quality consumables. they last longer.
First, when you switch off the machine, it stays running to cool it off, second, you need constant contact with the workpiece and tip for unit to work, you don't start it like an arc welder, third, you need a good ground, and lastly, you don't have enough air.
Add this to the "Fail Army" compilation videos.
Looks like the Ishito. For the money i might use it once in 12 months its fine. I managed 1/2" steel plus 1" bolts.
The switch is fine auto off after cool down. If your using for a business get a better one but for the home dude it will do?
Can someone tell me what the model differences between CUT50 R , D. DF if you look on ebay there are a bunch of different models and I dont know which one is best for me.
I got the Cut 40. Crank your air up more and put the tip on the metal at a bit of an angle to start. No need to "arc" it as its a drag tip you just pull it along the metal. If you see sparks on top then you aren't penetrating and either crank the juice or slow down. I had no plasma experience prior to purchasing mine but have since learnt its tricks and stopped using so many consumables. 10mm (3/8's) it will cut but you have to go slowly and its going to be ugly. Mines cuts ok till about 6mm. After a few minutes of cutting no matter how I've tried it starts cutting at an angle and as I cannot get better tips that's just life for now but as a hobbyist tool its ok and cheaper and easier than Oxy-Acy cutting and cutting on Chassis or tight spots it gets the job done. Mine doesn't have the digital readout but rather a timer for the air supply after the trigger is released. Also wouldn't really recommend it to someone I like or know :)
Usually the machine cools down when you turn the switch off before it will shuts down totally. At least mine does.
Paul , looks like this unit has a high voltage start so scratch start is not needed. Learn as much as you can before you review the product. I have been working with and on this China made units for over 15 years.
+Roger Olson Correction ,I have been working on various Chine made units for 15 years.
Mine has a piezo electric type of start. Just turn it all the way up for all thicknesses. You have to move faster on thin material but that is a plus for production speed
You got that right -- needs to be waaaay faster on thin stuff, and just 15 amps would have been plenty for that. Everybody has to learn somewhere I guess. Oh, and dont depend on a grounded table - clamp (and clean a wee bit) the workpiece.
Not sure that you know how to set one up? Or even use it.
Not trolling, but this is the shit that's wrong with RUclips. Any unknowledgeable person is allowed to make a video review when they don't know what they are talking about. 1) The power button isn't broken. It's a safety feature to keep the fan running to cool the unit. 2) you need a direct ground on something as thick as 3/8" steel. Not a table ground with the steel bouncing and wobbling all over the table. 3) you are cutting wayyy too fast. Slow down bro. 4) the harbor freight machine is this same mass produced Chinese machine as this, just with different labeling. Your recommendation to your loyal viewers is to go buy the same exact machine but for $400 more? Come one dude..
I delete my comment after reading yours, I can't believe, my deleted comment was as exact as yours and I'm %100 with you on this, glad for not being the only one here, thank you.
that switch is not broke its made to not let you turn it off untill it cools down so the fan stays on untill it cools that way the life of the machine is longer
Better machines will also allow for adjustable postflow of compressed air through the torch and cutting tip. I ended up paying more for my everlast for that feature.
For an experience guy it’s embarasing for u to post this vid n cause for 1 u didn’t clamp the metal with the ground and the switch works fine .
I have a welding machine that shuts pff and the fan is still running. Its supposed to shut down
@@rudyzavala3437 not until it is cool
Like anything else I guess, so, to be fair, you get what you pay for. Mine works fine, but, I didn't hear you mention the air pressure used?
All those extra consumables add quite a bit of value. I bought a $700 Harbor Freight one about ten eleven years ago. 50 amp also but one set of three runs about $26 or a bit more. I am wondering if you need to actually ground yours to start as that can erode the tip quickly? Mine is not a pilot arc either but I just get it close and it initiates an arc. Wouldn't be without one after having it. For $200 that one is impressive although I am wondering if it isn't really putting out 30 amps as mine with 50 seems to cut much thicker aluminum and steel than your machine. Even so that is quite a value for sheet metal work. Good video as I always enjoy seeing tools put to a real test in a real work environment. Especially the cheaper versions which us working stiffs can afford. Doug
Nice video. I don't know why you would not recommend it. It cut pretty good. I'm not sure how you grounded your work. I did not see your ground cable. Also, a lot of these Chinese machines heat up a lot and don't automatically turn off when you turn off the switch. They have a cooling fan that runs a while after each use. My 2 cents.... Thanks for the review! I like the machine and I am considering getting one. I heard you can replace the torch switch control with an auto pilot for about $50 or so.
your compressor sounds cheapper than the plasma cutter
It is Harbor Freight Special, I recognize the sound of it.
😅🤣😂👌🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🖐 🇦🇺
Cheaper not cheapper.
Thanks for the video! I'm looking to buy this same guy off of eBay (very first plasma cutter). Quick question though- are you able to drag the head across the part as you cut? Or do you have to keep it just slightly off the part? I ask, because I have a laser cutter, and am looking to cut out some templates to use, and just want to basically trace them out. Wasn't sure how difficult it would be. Much appreciated!
Well, I hope no one makes decisions based on this video. Comments below catch all the problems with the demo. ‘Nuff said.
I just plugged mine in and it was dead as a hammer right out of the box. The switch lit up, that's it. No fan, no display, no nothing. I have read only good reviews on this cutter until now. I hope the company i bought it from honors my return.
The switch ain't broke. The machine needs to cool down before shutting off, second, you need a better air compressor and to cut slower on thicker pieces. Lastly, don't bounce the tip to start the arch, just drag it. I cut .50 aluminum plate with my cut 50 without any issues. If you can only cut 3/8 steel, make sure you have enough input power coming through an appropriately sized lead.
I have a 15A circuit at home, will I get away with using it or will it flip the breaker?
Man, I wish I would have caught this before buying mine, its got pilot, but it's the same quality. I was hoping to get away from buying O², but nope, still go right back to the torches.
Also most common failures with the cut 50 : mosfets , power switch (I had that problem) , loose wires in the connectors and bad solder joints on the boards
Really with the oil-less air compressor?
dont worry bypass this switch and control from mains. it shall work fine. I am going to buy one for sure.
Avni world needs
Red led indicator for delayed off turn would be a plus.
At about 10:00 you didn't give it a decent earth connection. Apart from not clamping it the piece was very dirty so you probably lost more than half the power in the voltage drop between the bench and the piece you were cutting leaving very little power to actually heat up the arc. I think you were also going too fast as can be seen from the direction of the sparks.
I'm new to plasma cutting - just bought a cheap Chinese called Static Arc Cut-40 which is quite similar to that one a couple of days ago but in the first few minutes I learnt how important it was to have a good earth and also that the metal has to be clean at the point where you first strike the arc.
I replaced the (almost useless) earth clamp that came with it with one I borrowed from my stick welder and made sure to file clean a little spot on the metal where I wanted to start the arc. I could then quite easily cut through an old rusty piece of 10x80mm mild steel flat bar. I also managed to cut an equally rusty 1/2" steel roundbar which I was not expecting to be able to do. That just an hourt after opening the box and with no prior plasma cutting experience - the closest I have done is oxy-acetylene cutting, which I am not too good at actually so I was surprised how relatively easy it was to cut with plasma.
I'm guessing that maybe these considerations may be necessary only for cheap cutters and maybe larger professional machines would have enough power reserve to make up for poor earth connections and such.
You know I agree with you 100% about the Earth ground. voltage will travel in the path of the least resistance. Now I'd like to have a plasma cutter but I have never used one very much before and the machines I was running were really expensive back several years ago. But I do know from welders have a good ground because if you get up on it just right and your body turns out to be the least resistant path you can get the shitt knocked out of you. Kind of like welding in the rain.
I like your attitude! I especially like the "Now get the hell out of my shop!" at the end! I just subscribe and look forward top more vids and will check out your other vids. I also loved the Santa comment pic!
Oh hell yeah a good grinder makes a good welder!
Where'd you get the music from the beginning of your video?
Why does yours say 220 when the one on ebay says dual voltage. 110 or 220.
Why do you keep slapping it on the metal? Isn't it a contact plasma cutter which means it needs contact to cut?
Looks like he is striking an arc with a stick welder for his first time. Just touch the metal and get to cutting.
I ordered one and I am glad I did thanks
Better ground, better compressor, slow down.
I've seen these things cut through 3/8" like butter at less than max power.
I have a Zeny cut 50. I use that thing like it is a commercial grade unit. I paid $190 for it. So far it has held up great. This guy does not know how to use a plasma cutter. I prefer the non pilot model.you don't have to touch the metal for it to start cutting. Just get it close and it will arc. You should never touch the metal with the tip.
I got one of those muit process chinese machine I had to touch the tip for plasma to start cut then I realized like a dumb dumb I need to turn on high frequency start works awesome now high frequency start is not just for tig mode works great on plasma and stick welding
This is worthless if you want to know what settings to use because he never tells what air pressure settings he is using. In my plasma cutting I have found that you get cleaner cuts using minimal amperage and higher air settings. Saves your consumables and power costs also.
As many have stated, you do (did?) not know how to use this machine properly. The 3/8" plate, for example, was covered in rust and not properly grounded, so cutting it is going to be a challenge, particularly with a non pilot unit.
And, of course a more expensive, better quality machine would likely do a better job cutting thicker metal.
Those of us who can't justify spending "$600" for occasional hobby use, want to know if this unit will cut 1/4" plate reliable and, say 1/2" at a "pinch". And the answer is, yes, it can.
Thanks for sharing.
Man, where did you learn to weld? Ground your piece properly, it's rocking like a bucking bronco.
You should spend 229 Dollars on some more education for your self.
😅🤣😂
Nothing is worse than a bunch of Men trying to cut another Man down just to do it, I’d bet money not one of you would ever have the spine to say these things to a real Man in person.
Tough guy hides behind a computer screen huh?
I’ll make a deal with all of you cowards, if you can play nice for one week I’ll tell you boys what a vagina feels like
I have a similar model only older. Seems like they eat the consumables up pretty quick. I still would rather use the ox/acetylene torch on steel and the plasma on stainless and aluminum
Okay, I've watched too many ordinary review videos on plasma cutters! First, never cut freehand! Use a 3 mm timber straight edge and move at a good even pace! Don't waste your time and money converting your non-pilot torch, the lighter torch is better! If the maker says the machine will cut 14 mm, you half that and that is the very maximum you will cut by hand! The torch nozzles should only have a 1.0 mm hole, these have 1.5 and give a wavy cut. Don't adjust the amps, flat out is the best and air is best at 90-100PSI.
SIMPLE!
Yesterday i watched it cut 1/2" steel.!! ...It was 240v supply downunder.
I sold my Chinese plasma cutter and got a Hypertherm XP30 and I am glad I did. It cuts 3/8 at 25 amps no problem
Is this your 1st time ever using a Plasma Cutter ?
I just received a similar cutter, (the mano is now mounted front so a little tubing must go from the back of the regulator to the brass input upper left of the back side, this is not documented )
I recieved an instructionnal booklet where it is said to angle the torch at least for the biggest cuts, so to avoid projections of molden metal going onto the electrode.
ANgling may thicken the dimension to be cut, buit if it allow to wear less the electrodes I think it is a good idea (they also say to do so for gouging)
DO yopu have ideas about that ?
PS my torch is way less "heavy duty" than the one in the video, I bought a new one that seem to be better, DO you know if it is worth finding a "real" cutting torch the goal being to use less consumable? (the cost when new is high so I may try to find a second hand new or some specific occasion)
Regards and thank you for your answers
He did not talk about how much air pressure to give me advice
thank you for posting this video
Is there drag shielded tips for this machine?
3/8 inch or 95 mm is no problem with this machine. Just keep the nossle close enough.
and tilted to blow the melted metal away for better cuts
It will cut up to 1/2" but you must ground to the work piece . You were handicapping the results by improperly gounding the work piece
Side note it would be nice if you actually knew what you were talking about ....
Adventures in Welding: Do you still have the plasma cutter and if so how is it working?
At 50A that should have gone through that 3/8 metal like butter.
A 50A plasma cutter would be good up to 1/2 inch and severance 3/4 to an inch.
I don't think you are getting 50A out of that machine or you have a very poor ground.
Mine works fine and cuts 1/2 like butter. Some folks play others work
I would lay a bet it was a poor ground. Piece was laying on the grounded table I think.
I don't like how the tip is tapered.... seems like I would want to clamp a speedsquare to my work and drag the tip along the edge to get an actual straight line, and a tapered tip is going to defeat that....
thanks for explaining
The bit about the switch is fair enough but this is not a fair review and there is some poor technique also which accounts for some of the poor results. At $200 this is a good machine for an occasional user.
Hi Sir I enjoy watching your video.....
If you're going to go to all the trouble of making a video you would think you would at least Google out of plasma cut. It's not a strike Arc device. But with most items dealing with electricity you need a positive and a negative you don't need to strike the tip on the metal the only thing you're doing is destroying the cup don't drag the cup on the material or you will eat up your electrodes and your cups. I would suggest next time practicing a little before investing the time in a video because some people will watch a video and come away with some really bad advice
HF no longer lets you use the %20 coupons on anything good.
Welders,plasma cutter,tool box,jack,etc... read the fine print.
What kind of gas do you use for this plasma cutter? What pressure do you set it at?
Most modern plasma cutters just use a compressed air supply from a conventional air compressor.
Congrats on the 1,001 subscribers
+Ethan Schulz Now its time for the helmet giveaway
As if a rusty piece of metal would get a decent ground sliding around on a table, get a grip (literally)
i konw when switch off then it take a 1 mint after this its going to switch off atumatic
One cent one quality.Even for all Chinese machines,there are many different kinds of welder with different components installed.Georgi,before puchasing Chinese machines,I suggest you ask the seller if the mosfet of machine is brand new or second hand? Toshiba or other else? Frankly speaking,I can not do the good welding job as you,but I know how to judge which Chinese welder are good or not by the inside circuit design and components. So,I will be very glad to be your guider if you want to buy Chinese good welder.Cheers.
FortuneWeld - please pm me...possible sale. tyvm
read manual must ground direct not to table also more air pressure on thicker metal
Nice Review!!! I was thinking about buying one, but you convinced me otherwise ... thanks for the review!!
Based on the comments you might like to reconsider your “no buy” conclusion.
The unit stays on until it cools down, you need to clamp the ground to the piece your cutting because it was rusty.
NOTHING WRONG WITH SWITCH IT TAKES A FEW SECONDS THEN IT SHUTS OFF COOLING DOWN
Hi, I appreciate your willing to be helpfull to others customers...but.. with all the due respect. let do it by a professional ones.
The machine needs to cool down, thus the delay... I guess we get what we paid for but it’s a good machine for “hobbyist”
when cutting you should not drag your cut, you push the cut.
First of all the piece of metal that you try to cut ,3/8 inch, is full of rust you must clean it up and then try to cut it , it needs better grounding and the rust didin t help to do that. The switch is still on until decreased the temperature! I think that the machine worth the 229 for amateur use!
Lol did you read manual to see if it has a slow cut off so it can cool down first like a safety thing
So You're saying buy a 600 dollar machine? Lol
With that degree its better to cut forward instead of dragging it
I have one the same no probs
Picking on someone helps nothing.. Instead explain and help. I have yet to meet anyone who is an expert in everything. It's the people that try new things with no guidance that are the smartest. That's how all inventions were made in this world.
What machine do I need for cutting 25mm mild steel ? Thanks
ChuckE2009 had an episode with an engineer and area sales mgr from Hypertherm. They did some cuts with their 80 Amp unit and I believe they said it would cut 1" steel - so that or larger is what you are looking for. Best to check the mfg specs. Some are playing catch up to mfg like Hypertherm and may not have the same performance as the raw amperage might suggest.
It's Chinese what you pay for is what you get. If your a hobbyist then $200 is better than $600. It depends on how much work you plan to do with it. It's also worth mentioning that the life span on kit from China sucks balls! But again if your doing the odd job every other week then it's worth a couple of ton. You will probably save on cutting disks...
No link?
The flag on your wall behind you in this images it's backwards stars to the left unless this is a reverse image video but it doesn't look like it
Your vid seemed a little biased on your part, plus you didn't know it had a cooldown feature. Please don't pretend to be an expert. Even if it is self-proclaimed.
You need to run that at maximum air pressure
Estimado, cual es la presion de trabajo para tu cortadora.
Agua de acero Spa
- These work around 60 PSI ~ 4 BAR. ;-)
Obviously you don't know what you're doing when you shut the machine off it will not turn off until it is fully cooled down
really great review!!
Um. No.
you, sir, need a better air compressor.
thanks for the heads up on the Chiness junk, not surprised it turned out the way it did! sorry about the loss in $!