Stacey, your students are the luckiest folks! Your delivery is spot-on, and complete, without being too "wordy". Thank you so much for this series. I know you started your channel to dive into this fitting method, but I hope you'll consider expanding it to include all the other bits of garment fitting that challenge us home sewists. I'm looking forward to seeing more!
This is fascinating - can't wait to try it out. I love your style of presenting - no faffing around which is very different to many Americans. I usually give up on them but you make it seem very straightforward. Thank you for taking the time to produce these videos.
I’m a self taught sewer and I’ve never had any books just my instincts. This method completely blows my mind and your explanation and time and effort to show all the details has been incredibly helpful, thank you so much. I usually end up with great fitting pants but it takes so much figuring and fussing about that it makes it unpleasant to do. Then I have no idea what I did to replicate another pair 😣 I’m going to work this out keep a draft block pattern that I know will fit perfectly and start to enjoy making pants again. Once again thank you so very much 💖💕
this video is so fantastic! i love that you point out how empowering this method is. i originally started sewing because it was so difficult for me to find clothes to fit my hip to waist ratio and i didn’t realize the toll it’s taken on me to constantly put on clothes that are meant for a completely different body. i thought i’d be able to fix these issues by sewing my own clothes, only to find pretty much every pre-made pattern has the same issue!! i’ve recently started to feel resentful of people who can just buy clothes off the rack while i had to do so much work just to look good in a simple pair of pants. and i hated that feeling because it reinforces the idea that some bodies are better than others. all because of some clothes! i’m really excited to try this out! these are probably the best tutorials i have ever seen, you are such a phenomenal teacher. thank you SO much. this method + this playlist feel revolutionary!!
I'm so glad that these videos are speaking to you! I have a very similar story to yours -- I could never buy clothes off the rack bc of my waist to hip ratio, and I encountered similar fit issues with sewing patterns. TDCO was the only fitting method where I actually felt empowered by the end of the process, rather than bewildered, defeated, or frustrated like with every other fitting method I've tried. I hope you enjoy trying the method for yourself!
This was very interesting and quite eye-opening. It makes so much sense, and I could see how one could even transfer this method to fitting shirts (starting from a well-fitted yoke...). As you said, it's more based upon how a garment hangs on the body, and tweaking from there, instead of trying to correct what are actually side issues. You know how sewing books always talk about grainlines needing to be perpendicular to the floor. This is the same, but going one step further back. It's probably totally self-evident for people having learned to fit by draping...
This series is very eye opening. I hope to see more from you on RUclips not only because you are a fabulous teacher, but also because it looks like we have almost identical body types
The best tutorials for this method I have found. You are a great teacher, explanations and pictures are very clear and informative. I’m grateful I found your videos. Now to see what else I can learn from you. Thank you.
This step took me forever! 😅 I actually found it really tricky to adjust and pin parts by myself even though I could see everything in the two mirrors. I also forgot to trace my new seam lines and baste them and try on again so I'm very glad I'm watching this video again before moving on to the next step! Thank you sooooo much for doing these videos!! I wouldn't be anywhere near as successful trying this method without them. ☺
I'm so glad the videos are helpful! And yes, the pinning and adjusting to the two-mirror set up can sometimes take a few tries to get the knack of it. But practice helps!
Incredible! I wish I could give this more than one thumbs up. I had listened to podcasts and read the Threads article, but your series has been the most helpful. You are a natural teacher, illuminating key points and guiding us through common pitfalls. When you showed the adjustments you would make before TDCO, I could completely relate. I gave up making a pair of pants because the adjustments were never ending! And the process also made me feel critical of my body. As you mention in the end, TDCO appears to be a much more efficient and compassionate approach
I've also given up on pants because the adjustments just got so overwhelming, and I thought my body was the problem. Now we have an alternative, and I'm so happy to hear that it resonates with you, too!
Thank you for your concise and instructive series on TDCO. As an experience sewist all the steps and puzzles and the multitude of adjustments of the past that made for a pair of pants that only sort of fit have suddenly vanished! I haven't tried it yet, but you can be sure I will and with complete confidence that my body is not the problem! Thank you again!
This series was SO GOOD! I learned so much. I have been through the process of trying to self draft a pants pattern. I was so frustrated that I had to try so many "fixes" where most of the fixes I made just created a new problem. It was a demoralizing process. I used so much paper, fabric and time and still had no product I liked (or could sit down in). I kept pursuing the wholly grail because I really felt that I HAD to create my own pattern since I struggled to find patterns or ready-to-where (other than athletic stretchy pants) that felt good. Front saddle length was always too long, back saddle length too short, aging Mom belly, flat seat, skinny lower legs but wider upper thighs etc etc etc. So much focus on what was WRONG about my body. I love that this approach is body agnostic. I love that I can try cool patterns. And I love that it never calls out any body part. The goal is to achieve the intended look and fit the designer sought. MAGIC. The process is customized, reasonably speedy, and empowering, no matter what body shape or size you happen to be. Your explanations, drawings and fitting segments were articulate, clear and uplifting. My only criticism is now my pocketbook will be lighter with all the fun pants patterns I am going to buy to try with TDCO!! Thank you!!!
which video came first? how are you so synced with your spoken lesson + gestured fitting? What magic is this?? 🤯🤯🤯 Honestly this series has been a spiritual experience for me. I feel not only comfortable, but EXCITED to fit pants now (this has been a nightmare for years) and you are 100% free of judgement in the way you teach, and it's totally healing. love
I'm so glad to hear that! This method was a healing experience for me, too. To film these, I wrote out a list of points I wanted to cover, then recorded a rough audio of me talking about each one. I listened to the audio while filming the fitting (so I knew when to gesture), and then filmed the spoken session while watching the video of the gestured fitting. Suffice it to say, it took a while to figure out how to get everything synced just right! I'm not a professional so I'm sure there's a more efficient way to do it.
@@thecrookedhem smart!! Maybe someday there'll be a "Top Down Center Out" equivalent for video splicing ;p but until then your method seems to work flawlessly. I think I speak for us all in deeply appreciating the time you took to craft this amazing series.
So so helpful. Thank you so much for explaining this method so thoroughly. I used to dislike fitting pants and like my body less because of it. Digging into the TDCO method using the article and your videos, I am already feeling differently about the whole process. Now let's hope my first experiment delivers :). Thanks again!
Thanks for this! You're the first person to suggest that my overall curviness meant that starting with a bigger hip size on the pattern might help. I'm working on the toile for some Adams Pants using TDCO!
There are two types of "curviness" for the human body, one is the balance of the depth and the side-to-side dimensions of the hip circumference and the other is the rate of change between circumferences on the torso from the waist as the fabric travels downwards. In TDCO, because you are only starting with the crotch and inseam for the size selection you can always make this larger or smaller in the toile stage.
Thanks for making this series I feel like I have really got my head around it now. It would be great to have a Facebook group or Discord server where we could all help each other and share our successes and pattern suggestions.
this is AMAZING! i suddenly feel so confident about trying some of my old pants patterns again that i gave up on! the fit of the pants you made looks incredible. thank you so so much for this series.
I am curious where in the process you would add/remove length....? I am assuming when making flat pattern adjustments prior to adding the extra inches on side and waist?
Top Down Center Out suggests that we don't want the hem of the toile resting on the foot or on the floor while we are fitting (it's fine for the final garment, obviously). If you typically need to shorten the leg in your patterns, do that shortening step before making the toile so that the leg is up off the floor. If it is resting on the floor or your foot, this can affect the drape of the fabric in the leg and interfere with how we interpret the fit higher up in the garment. If you typically need to lengthen the leg, wait until after you've fit the toile, then lengthen right before cutting into the final fabric.
Thank you. I think this might take care of my drag/crotch problems. I'm short and Ruth said they were the hardest fit so I look forward to attempting this. Picked up extra mirror today. . Ruth also suggested I watch your videos. You are a great educator. Again thank you.
This whole series is great! In addition to finally starting to understand how Top Down Center Out works, I learned general things about how to make a toile. I never bothered to hem my toiles in the past, and I didn't realize you should skip side seam pockets! I thought there was something "weird" about my body because pants that fit my hips always have a huge, gaping waistband. I just sewed and tried on my toile, and on the first pass, achieved a decent fit by pulling the front of the pants higher on the waistband, while also identifying that I need some extra fabric at the top of the pants in the back. I still need to baste and refine the fit, but I'm really happy to have learned so much.
This whole series is so helpful! You’re a wonderful speaker (clear, concise, engaging)! Thank you thank you! This looks like it was a lot of work to create, and I am hugely appreciative of your efforts!
Thank you so much for this series and this chapter in particular where we get to see how you read the toile! You look stunning in your beautifully sewn pants and they're a perfect example of how I'd like a sophisticated relaxed-fit trouser to fit on me, with similar body-type, so this is very inspiring in more ways than one :)
I'm so glad to hear that! This method really opened the door for me to enjoy the fitting process, and I've noticed that I am wearing a wider range of styles and designs now, too. Being able to make well-fitting trousers feels like a super power, and I hope you have a similar experience!
This is a fantastic resource. I have struggled for years and effectively given up on fitted trousers . I have had to made major adjustments but I think I finally gave well fitting trousers that look like the pattern. Also turns out I need more /length/ rather that width to get the best fit!
Thanks for this extensive and helpful series! Now fitting pants will be just an easy job. Hope you’ll issue explore more fitting issue in this way in the near future
Thank you so much for this. I am really interested in pants fitting but before your series found the theory behind top down center out great but couldn’t get my head around the practice. You are a natural teacher and pitch this so perfectly for your intended audience. The episode on design intent was a revelation for me and will impact all my sewing pattern choices and fitting, not just for pants I’m really interested in using the method for fitting pants with a yoke (eg jeans). Would be ace if you had time to cover this, if not I’m sure I’ll give it a go once I get the basics down. Thanks again for your contribution.
Yes! I'm planning on doing a video where I talk about how to use Top Down Center Out with different types of designs and I'll include jeans with a yoke!
Amazing! The results are terrific, nicely done. I found myself a little distracted by your clever editing techniques, rather like having a BSL signer in the corner.... Well, I'm off to cut my own one-legged wonder now. Here goes!
I'm thrilled to have found this method and your very clear explanation of it! I've been trying for years to design a pants sloper that fits both my body and my gender presentation, since off the rack menswear that will fit over my hips is almost always way too big in places where I don't want that, and there aren't really commercial patterns intended for trans bodies. It's so demoralizing. Learning how to design patterns from scratch is very slow-going to the tune of at least 20 mockups over the past few years with endless adjustments that never seem to solve things. I'm so excited to try out TDCO with a pattern copied from a commercial pair of pants that fits me sort of ok to start with, to finally get out of endless rounds of mockup hell and maybe even produce a finished pair of me-made pants! And beyond that this method is giving me so many ideas for designing future patterns, essentially reverse-engineering this into a draping method, so that someday I might have variety in my closet full of me-makes. Thank you so much!
Awesome! I'm so glad this is helpful! Enjoy using the method, it's been a total game changer for me and many others who want to feel more empowered during the fitting process.
Wonderful series! I finally was able to "get" how this method works after today's video. I was anxiously waiting to see the toile in action. Thank you for the hard work I know you have put into this series. Now I can't wait to see the elastic waist tips as that is what I wear in a trouser. You have given us the tools! I could not find the summer issue of Threads magazine anywhere, so am so grateful to see this step by step as you have shown. So good!!
So glad it was helpful! Yes, the elastic waist video is coming up right after the next one on transferring adjustments. I also live in elastic waist pants these days, so it's a topic near and dear to my heart.
Thank you for this wonderful series. You are a great teacher. I look forward to how to address elastic waist pants. You really have shown how TDCO works. I've been working on fitting a pants pattern through several test garments and have ended with a pattern that doesn't resemble the original.
It would be great if you would do a more detailed video of you fitting your toile to the waist band (front and back) AND drawing the seamlines. I'm still missing how to get the proper seam lines ON TO my new Master pattern... I've watched several times. I'm so sorry & frustrated. Thank you for your very hard work. ❤
Thank you so much for all these videos. I have been working on getting a decent pair of pants for quite a few years. I have got somewhat better but never really achieved what I really want. I feel this is going to get me over that hump. Also wow you’re going to show how to transfer it to the pattern. I’m working on a couple of things right now but ASAP. I’m going to start working on a pants toile. I think even experienced in sewing world find this so much better than all that fixing the wrinkles & swayback & too much fabric under the tush. Again thanks . I can’t wait for next video and to get started on this.
As usual great informations, I have learn so much with your serie of TDCO and have learn to look at a pattern in a different way then previously. This method has a healing power of accepting your body no matter your shape (no more apple, pear etc) but only my shape and the intended design. What a game changer, I can't tank you enough to finnally making me see and loving my body just the way it is and finnaly fitting and sewing a pair of pants. Looking forward to the nexr video and starting my toile too. BTW your pants look fantastic with a great fit! 😀👏👏
This is SO FANTASTIC, thank you so much! I previously made myself a block for trousers, which means I can 'quickly' assess whether trousers will fit, but... I'm very conscious that all my trousers are ending up looking the same and I'm losing the design intent. Having designed, drafted and made a pair of jodhpurs recently (so, so, so, so much ease on the hip, aaaaarrrggghhhh) I wanted a new few ways of working and this is brilliant. Thanks to you (and Ruth). Your little models (the cage and string) and the shorts AND the pair of trousers you made are so excellent in guiding us through. I'm gonna go see whether cigarette pants suit me or not. (Jodhpurs to cigarette...I know) Ooh, one thing I was thinking of was that this method also might benefit from a return to marking stitching lines, as opposed to cutting lines. This is a preference I learnt from Susan Khalije in her craftsy class, and is just something for people to think about.
Great point! I have switched to marking stitching lines on my toiles for the most part, I find it helps me make alterations faster. The great thing about this method is that the maker can choose how to execute each of the steps -- so if switching to stitching lines rather than cut lines feels easier or saves time, then go for it!
Always look forward to the new video!! this one did not disappoint i understand the process far better than when you started making those videos so thank you :) ! the one mystery left for me is how to put back the pockets on the pattern once you're done fitting. Will that be something you'll explain ?
This video series is Masterclass-level! I am interested to get your opinion on using TDCO method to "alter" already made trousers? Or in other words, basically deconstructing a finished trouser to re-fit using TDCO. Does anyone have any experience in attempting this?
Thank you for the kinds words! It is certainly possible to alter trousers using this method. If you are on Instagram, @minimalistmachinist has created a couple of posts about how she used TDCO to alter several pairs of trousers that no longer fit well. You may want to remove the waistband entirely and re-fit it to find your optimal circumference. Then re-pin the trousers back to the altered waistband so that you can experiment with the crotch length on front and back. Then proceed with the rest of the TDCO workflow from there. Good luck!
This is incredible, thank you. I've been too scared to try making trousers as all the fit adjustments sounded too complicated but this seems so much more approachable and body neutral. Also your teaching method and the way you've filmed this is so clear and helpful. One thing I'd like to ask is how would you approach really asymmetrical bodies? I have severe scoliosis (I've had surgery but my hips are still very uneven, do you have any advice on how to approach this? Is it worth maybe turning the toile inside out and comparing the other side?
I think turning the toile inside out for the other side could work. You could also make a full toile (two legs), and then fit each side a little differently. The TDCO workflow will work just as well on a two-legged toile as a one-legged toile, you will just need to decide where you want to make different adjustments on either side and where you want to make the same adjustments. Hope this helps!
And in case you missed it, here is what Ruth Collins had to say about a very similar question being asked in the comments of the video for Part 2: "All bodies are asymmetric to some extent and often these asymmetries are small compared to the asymmetry temporarily created by body movement such as one leg in front of the other, standing with one hand on a hip etc. The design of the pant should accommodate such asymmetries, it is a collaboration between the body and design. The goal is to empower the maker so there are no rules, each body and pattern combination is unique and it will depend on the style being fitted and the fabric type such as non-stretch/stretch etc. A general suggestion is to fit the side of the body that is larger and tweak the other side in the fashion fabric but makers could also decide to leave the garment symmetric and blend the differences. With prosthetics or other attachments such as ostomy bags this could help makers decide between styles or adapt styles with different waistbands to accommodate these aspects. Everybody is different and unique, there are multiple possible solutions for every fitting issue and only the maker can decide what is optimum for their body."
Thank you so much! I've been too scared to venture into trousers making due to being scared of being confronted with the asymmetry (sounds so silly writing it down) to the point I don't know which side is bigger or higher but I think this approach has the body neutrality that will make me think less critically of my body. Also I love that Ruth is so mindful of wheelchair users, and those with prosthetics or ostomy bags, it's so refreshing.
Thank you so much for all your work in these videos! I'm ready to jump in now. One question I have is when I'm fitting my toile and positioning the CF and CB, how is the seam allowance accounted for? When I sew up the real pants, aren't those two seams moved by the width of the SA? or am I missing a step?
When you prepare the toile, you sew a line of stay stitching along the crotch seam line from CF to CB. This line of stitches represents the CF and CB of the toile, and it is what you will align with your CF and CB (in other words, you are not using the edge of the toile fabric to align to your center, rather the line of stitches indicating the crotch seam). I cover this at the end of the video on preparing the toile if you missed it (around the 6:12 timestamp): ruclips.net/video/1-pApL2OTKs/видео.html
This is so awesome you've put together this playlist. I'm guessing this wouldn't work for pants that are stretch and would have negative ease, right? Is there a method to deal with that?
Good question. Yes, this method can work for pants with stretch/negative ease, but you will need to adapt certain elements of the fitting process. To work with a pattern that has negative ease (or no ease), you will need to use a two-legged toile instead of a one-legged one. Other than that, you can follow the method in the same order as your normally would. The reason for using a two-legged toile for patterns with negative ease is so that you can keep the center front/back of the toile aligned with your center front/back. If you tried to fit a stretch pattern with a one-legged toile, you would see that the center front and back of the toile would pull away from your centers as the fabric stretches, and it would be difficult to keep things aligned. With a full two-legged toile, you can align the center front/back of the toile with your center front/back and gauge how much stretch or tension you want in the fabric by increasing or decreasing the fabric at the side seams. It also goes without saying, but I will also mention that for stretch patterns, it's super important to toile in a fabric that has the same amount of stretch as your final fabric. Hope that helps!
@@thecrookedhem Thank you! I figured it wouldn't work with only one leg. But I so appreciate all you've done to break down this process. I'm totally doing my pants fitting this way now. Seems so much less stressful - and less wasteful of fabric!
Yes, I have used this method on pants with all kinds of closures, including a zipper fly in front. The adjustments you'll need will depend on the pattern, so I would recommend taking a close look at the pattern itself as well as the instructions for construction. The center front of the pattern pieces should be marked on most well-drafted patterns. If not, you may be able to figure out where center front is from the instructions. Then mark the center front location on your toile pieces and continue on with TDCO as you normally would, taking care to keep the center front of the pattern aligned with your center front. Alternatively, you can also make a 2-legged toile and include the front closure/fly when making the toile. I would probably not install a zipper in that case, but just mark its location on the toile and pin everything together when fitting. As with most things in sewing, there are a variety of ways to get to the finish line, so use whatever method speaks to you!
@@thecrookedhem Thank you for the reply. The more I thought about it, the more I came up with a plan that is in line with your suggestion. I haven't tried it yet.
Thank you soooo much. I have slim legs & get a lot of baggy/extra fabric under my bottom. Any suggestions please on how to remove. Su from Queensland Australia.
The best advice I can give would be to experiment with your one-legged toile and see what works for your body. Every combination of body + pattern will be unique, so it's challenging for me to give detailed advice for fit issues -- what works for one body and one pattern might not work for another. When I encounter a fit issue like the one you describe, I try to come at it by asking questions -- for example, what happens if I move the inseam more toward the front or the back? What happens if I shorten the rise? What happens if I remove circumference at the hip and thigh level? It may take a little tinkering over a few sessions, too.
J Stern Designs just put out a video on this exact issue…Troubleshooting Pants Fitting Part 2 (April 11, 2023). She has a RUclips channel and is a follower of The Crooked Hem.
Definitely possible! I have made toiles out of fashion fabric before, it's particularly useful if the fashion fabric is very different from cotton muslin/calico. For example, fabrics that are much heavier or that have much more drape than cotton muslin might be good candidates to use for the toile.
@@thecrookedhem I am so excited to try this out. If you use the fashion fabric, then that also can save a step. I'm usually not too far off the pattern, so I may try this with my next pants make. Thank you so much for these videos. I can't wait to see how this changes the home sewing world.
True, it could save you a step. I have done it both ways -- one way is to use fashion fabric to make the toile (the left leg, let's say), then use the fashion fabric again to make the garment (new left leg + right leg). I've also experimented with using the toile for the final garment, essentially cutting out the toile's mate and sewing them together. If you try this, be aware that there is a risk that the crotch seam will stretch a little or a lot as you are fitting, and it may not pair up exactly with a freshly cut opposite leg, even if you staystitsh the crotch seam. Success may also depend on the pattern and fabric, too; I used a relaxed fit jean pattern with a 13oz denim and saw minimal stretching of the toile so I went ahead and cut out the toile's mate and sewed them together. But the final garment does have a little bit of warping around the back crotch on the toile side (which only I will notice), but that's why I would say this approach is a "proceed at your own risk" option. Another approach here is to combine the toile and the final garment into one, essentially make a two-legged toile out of your fashion fabric. Add all the extra fabric you need to the top and sides of the pattern, sew the crotch and inseam together, and sew part of the outseam up to the hip. Then follow the Top Down Center Out workflow to fit as you normally would. You will not have the same visibility to the crotch seam fit as you would with a one-legged toile, but you will avoid one side stretching out more than the other. There is a lot of flexibility with this method, so there may be other solutions, too!
I'm wondering if it would be beneficial to draw the grainline on the toile? That way I could see if the fabric was indeed hanging straight. I've watched your videos a couple of times and am getting ready to make a pair of pants. Also do you make a toile for every different pants pattern you use or do you use a pattern that you know fits as a sloper?
Most conventional fitting methods tell us to draw the grainline on the fabric during fitting so that we can see if the pant leg is hanging straight down. Some folks will also claim that the anatomical leg should always be centered in the pant leg, as well, where the center grainline maps to where the center of the anatomical leg is inside the pant. The problem with this advice is that not all pants designs are intended to have a straight grainline when worn, nor is the center grainline intended to map to the anatomical leg for all pants. There are many examples where trying to straighten or move the grainline on a specific design will lead the maker down a very frustrating road while fitting. So for this reason, Top Down Center Out does not ask the maker to add the grainline for fitting; because it is not a universal tool for achieving good fit. Instead, TDCO recommends using the bottom edge of the hem as your guide for whether the leg is straight. If the hem is parallel to the floor, then the leg is hanging well (this is another reason why the hem of your toile should not be touching your foot or the floor for fitting). The grainline is still important when cutting out your fabric, though, so it's an important element to trace when copying your pattern pieces, just not so useful during the fitting stage. I do make a toile for every pattern that I fit. Slopers can also work well for some folks, but my issue with a sloper is that it can easily erase the unique fit and design elements from every pair of pants I make. In other words, when I use a sloper, all of my pants end up looking and fitting like the sloper. Which is fine if that is what you want, but one of the reasons why I love TDCO is because it allows me to try many different fits and styles, so I don't want to lose the unique elements of each.
I’m getting ready to try this method and having watched your series twice, will watch it again before attempting. Do you use a non stretch fabric for the toile even if the final product will be sewn in a knit?
I'd recommend using a toile fabric that's as close to your fashion fabric as possible. So if using a stretch fabric for your final garment, ideally I would try to find a similar stretch fabric for the toile. Alternatively, I might purchase extra of the fashion fabric to use for the toile, if possible. If you are using TDCO to fit a stretch pants pattern, I'd also recommend making a full two-legged toile rather than the one-legged one. The negative ease designed into patterns for stretch fabrics will make fitting a one-legged toile quite difficult. When wearing the one-legged toile for a stretch pattern, the center front and back will pull away from your center, complicating the fitting process. A two-legged toile will allow you to align the center of the garment with your center, then as you fit, do your best to make equal adjustments to both sides and transfer those back to the pattern pieces.
@@thecrookedhem thank you Stacey. The pattern I am wanting to try is one that is meant for both woven and stable knits like ponte and does not have negative ease. The fabric I am planning on using is a woven stretch denim with cross grain stretch of 12% to 15%. I was considering using this as well with the Worship jeans. Loved the way they fit you and I do like a closer fit around the hips. So with this type of fabric do you still recommend a two leg toile? Any advice is very welcome. Thank you.
@@trufflesmom1 Ah, I see. If there is no negative ease, then you may be able to get by with a one-legged toile. This might be the kind of thing that you will need to try out for yourself to see if the one-legged toile will be sufficient, and if you find that you are having difficulty assessing the fit, then you can always pivot to a 2-legged toile. There may not be one "right" way of doing it, either -- it's all about what works for you and allows you to execute the steps of TDCO most comfortably.
Please help. Your videos are amazing. I made my toile. I have everything fitted. Almost everything matches up with my pattern marks for the size I picked..... Except the rear. From the side seam that is at the pattern mark to the center back where I went up 2 1/4 inches. Should I just blend it in and re orient the darts? Or is there another way?
Hi there! I'd be happy to try to help, but unfortunately I'm having trouble visualizing where you are in the process and what changes you've made to the toile. Are you transferring adjustments back to the pattern? When you say you went up 2 1/4 inches in the center back, do you mean that you've shortened the vertical length (aka the rise) at the center, but not at the sides? If that's the case, then yes, you will blend the new waistline in the center back to the side seams, sometimes it's helpful to use a curved ruler to avoid any obvious angles or kinks in the seam line as you blend. As for the orientation of the darts, I'd recommend experimenting with dart orientation on the toile when it's on your body -- you can seam rip the darts and re-orient or re-locate them until you're happy with the look and fit. Then you can transfer this new orientation over to your pattern and have confidence that they are in the right spot for your body. Please let me know if I've mis-understood your question, and I'll do my best to help!
@@thecrookedhem I've cut out and assembled my toile and am doing the fitting. I guess I have lengthened the rise. The front panel meets the markings for the original patterns waist just fine on the toile. The side seam of the back panel also meets the waist at the markings. But as I pin the back to the waistband towards the center back I end up 2 1/4 in into the excess material at the top back leg panel. Does that make more sense?
Yes, perfect sense. You've added some extra vertical length at the center back, and this is a very common adjustment for lots of folks. To get back to your original question -- yes, do your best to blend in this additional fabric along the waistline. The dart legs will probably need to be extended up to meet the new waist seam line, and you may find that you need to adjust the angle of the darts, too, but it depends on the pattern and the body. Trust your intuition on what looks and feels right for the darts. Congrats on coming this far! You're almost at the finish line!
No need to worry about the grainline. In Top Down Center Out, we use the hem of the pant leg to guide us as to whether the pant leg is draping correctly on the body. For designs where the grainline is perpendicular to the hem, straightening the hem will also straighten the grainline.
Between 5:20-6:30, you pin the toile to the waistband. And you pin it to the centre line of stitching on the waistband. Is the middle of the waistband important or would you be more concerned about marking where the toile meets up with the seam allowance that you would be using on the waistband? I'm just confused about how to accurately mark and account for this.
That's correct -- you want to make sure you are marking where the toile meets up with the seam allowance on the waistband. If you tuck the toile underneath the waistband and then pin along the seamline (pin through both layers: the waistband and the toile), you can then carefully take off the toile and mark the location of the pins. Then you can "connect the dots" on the toile to draw in the new seamline along the top edge.
Can this method be used for jeans with stretch denim? That's what I'm working on right now and I have so many fit issues, I'm hoping this will help me. Your videos were great and so helpful. As many others have said, you are a great teacher. Thanks so much!
Thank you! I think this method could work for a jeans pattern in stretch denim. There are a few different ways that I've seen folks use TDCO to fit jeans, but what I have done in the past is to fit the waistband first, then fit the yoke to the waistband, then fit the rest of the pants to the yoke+waistband. Stretch fabrics can be a little tricky to use with TDCO if there is negative ease designed into the pattern (the center front and center back seams will pull away from your center front and center back, making the fit through the torso a little challenging to assess with a one-legged toile, so a two-legged toile might be better there). But if your stretch denim pattern has a little positive ease, then I think the classic TDCO approach could work beautifully. The method is very adaptable, so there are likely ways that you can make it work for a wide variety of patterns. I am planning a future video on fitting a pair of jeans with TDCO, as well.
@@thecrookedhem Thanks so much for your quick reply. My problem with this pair is I had already cut out the pattern and the fit was horrible. So after seeing your wonderful video I decided to try - as best I could - the TDCO method to at least make this pair wearable. I ended up with no yoke as most of my fit issues are in the back. I have only basted everything, so nothing lost. I'll try doing yoke first and then fit the rest, as you suggest. Except for the yoke problem, these jeans fit really well now (not perfect, but wearable). I'm happy. I did end up doing both left and right sides because I'm very assymetrical, due to scoliosis. My next pair I will cut out as the technique recommends and go from there. You have no idea how timely your video was for me - and how grateful I am for having found it. Thank you so much. I am a new subscriber.
Thank you immensely for this video series. I'm a visual learner and this has helped it click for me. My only question is - how do you know what the intended crotch seam ease of a pattern is?
I study the product photos from the designer to decipher clues about the amount of ease and the intended fit. I've also contacted patterns companies before to ask them how much vertical ease is intended in the crotch seam a specific design -- sometimes they will give you an exact number. I've got a video about how I read intended fit from product photos if it's helpful! ruclips.net/video/6xdIyVqFcu4/видео.html
I have watched all your videos several times but cannot find where you address changing the size to get better depth in the crotch. Please help. And many, many thanks.
Hello! I haven't made a video about that topic specifically, but it's on my list! To change the amount of cross-body depth in a toile (the distance between center front and center back), we can use the nested, multisized pattern to do most of the work for us. To increase the cross-body depth and give yourself more room in the "saddle" of the pants, you will want to trace the crotch and inseam from one or two sizes up from your measured hip size. To decrease the cross-body depth, you can trace the crotch and inseam from one or two sizes down. A few things to note: 1) generally speaking for well-drafted patterns, small changes in cross body depth will have a BIG impact on the fit, so it's important to go up or down by one or two sizes at a time and not more. 2) if you do change the cross-body depth on the toile, you will need to re-start the Top Down Center Out fitting process from the beginning when you try on the toile again (so, start by adjusting the vertical length of the rise in the center front and back, then work from center out). In other words, imagine that you are starting with a clean slate after changing the crotch/inseam size -- erase any alterations you made with the previous fittings and start again at the beginning. As always, go slowly and try to have patience as you adjust the crotch/inseam size. You are essentially adding another variable into the mix along with vertical crotch length and circumference, so take your time and make small, incremental changes until you dial in the fit that works for you.
Sorry i am asking another question its my first time came across this. So i am working on a toile protea trouser by paradise pattern. I did the waist band and got that correctly. Followed your advice and added an 1" on the outer side of the pants.. And 2inch on the top. Extend the darts Just from looking at it i do know the crotch is too long for me. And i have that problem with any trouser patterns . Do i just simply pull them up to the position of crotch i want and do marking on calico and transfer that to the paper? It does have dart at the back and pleate at the front which has options of having it or not having the pleates. Will wait for your advice x Thank you
Yep, that's correct! After you've put on your waistband, pull on the one-legged toile and experiment with where you want the crotch seam to be. Sometimes you may need to adjust the length of the crotch in front and back differently -- so adding or removing more in front and less in back or vice versa. Many folks like to tuck the toile fabric underneath the waistband as they are fitting, which can help to keep things a bit more stable as you are pinning, but you can experiment with what works best for you. The important thing is that you follow the top down center out workflow -- adjusting the crotch length first in the center front and back, and then moving out to adjust the sides. When you are satisfied, mark your fabric. It's also a good idea to baste your changes in place, take out all the pins, and try on the toile one final time before you move on to cutting your final fabric.
@@thecrookedhem thank you so much, cant wait to crack on with it. Its so interesting. I made one time jumpsuit and that ripped when i bend down. Out of fear i never made anything. Last yr i maxe sew over it culottes and the crotch was midway of my upper thigh 😑🤦♀️. This hopefully will solve my crotch problem.
Sorry one more question I done the waistband and didny realised tht the zip and all that will be there. The waistband out the pattern was so loose i had to take in alot do i do the zip fly or facing whatever is on tht side. I just double check the facing need to be on it too.. Plus waistband. That will be loose on me.. Without thw zipper facing it was so loose
To fit the toile, you do not need to construct the fly guard or the fly facing. On the center front leg piece, there is a notch along the waistline that indicates the center front line -- on the Protea pattern it is indicated as "CF" but all well-drafted patterns with a front zip fly should have the center front marked. This notch tells you where the zipper will be on the final garment. Using the CF notch, mark the center front on your toile fabric and use this line when aligning the half toile to your center front. When it comes time to construct the final garment, you will need to do some careful observation of the pattern to make sure that your waistband has enough overlap at the front to meet the left and right sides of the pants -- the fly guard on the left side will add extra length to this side of the waistline. There are many ways to do this, so do whatever is most intuitive to you, but here's what I do: I pin the waistband on myself and mark the center front on the right and left side of the waistband (when the waistband is pinned closed, these marks will directly overlap). Then I look at the pattern pieces and measure the extra distance that the fly guard adds on the left side, starting from the center front line and measuring to the edge of the fly guard (remember to subtract seam allowances!!). Then I make sure that my waistband has enough length on the left side to cover the fly guard. I also usually add at least 1/2" on either end of the waistband just to give myself a little extra fabric as I'm constructing the pants -- this gets trimmed off before I close the waistband if I don't need it. Good luck!
You'll construct the waistband exactly as you would for the final garment. So when you are finished sewing it, the waistband should look identical to the waistband on the final garment, and the seam allowance along the bottom edge will be exposed. Don't trim that off because you will attach your toile to that seam allowance. Then, wrap the waistband around your body and pin. Some folks also go the extra mile and add a closure (snap, button/buttonhole, etc).
Adding fabric to the waistline at the CF and CB straightened the grain line. I've got a diagram with some explanation in my blog post about these trousers if you'd like to read more: thecrookedhem.net/2022/04/25/top-down-center-out-with-the-eve-trousers/
Hi Stacey! So useful. Just a quick question about the depth of the crotch seam. I think I may need to adjust this and wondered if you had a video about this at all or any tips?
I don't have a video yet, but I do have some tips. If you find that you need to change the cross-body depth of your toile (making the crotch seam or "saddle" of the pants wider or narrower for your body), then you can grade up or down in the crotch seam using the multisized pattern. So, let's say I selected size 14 based on my hip measurement, so I trace the size 14 crotch and inseam when preparing my toile. When fitting, I discover that I need more cross-body depth to get the right mount of ease through the thigh and torso. So I will select a new size to trace for the crotch seam line, in this case going up in size to create more cross-body depth. I would then need to blend the new crotch point (in this case the crotch hook will be slightly longer if going up a size) down along the inseam all the way to the hem, essentially adding a little fabric at the inseam to accommodate the wider cross-body depth. Obviously the opposite is true if you need to go down in size at the crotch seam. I would strongly encourage doing a little bit at a time, say 1-2 sizes and then re-assess the fit. You will notice that well-drafted patterns grade the cross-body depth by tiny amounts compared to how much side seam/hip circumference is grading, so a little can go a long way. Keep in mind that once you change the cross-body depth in the toile, you will need to go back and check the fit from the top down and center out (so start at the beginning of the toile fitting steps). Feel free to experiment here, this may take a little tinkering to dial in the right combination of adjustments, but you can absolutely do it! Ruth Collins has several examples of this on her Instagram if its helpful, here's one where she graded down in the front crotch curve of the Bisque trousers: instagram.com/p/CV6YPdmv2Rs/
Stacey this series is amazing! Thank you so much. To follow on from this thread, it you have a flat seat and lifting the centre back waistline still leaves too much fabric under the butt then I should try a size down crotch line? I suppose that would make sense as I don’t need as big a saddle. ?
@@vickimaiorano5763 Hi Vicki, I'm so glad you are enjoying the series. The solution to excess fabric under the butt might be different depending on the pattern, but what you say makes sense to me. Going down a size in the crotch seam is certainly something you could try. I have also played with taking in the side seams, or experimenting with the back dart intake. One final note is that sometimes there is excess in the back leg to accommodate a seated position or other normal movements throughout the day (bending, climbing stairs, etc). So I like to remind myself to try sitting down or bending over in my toile and seeing what happens to that excess. Of course only you can be the judge of what is "too much" excess and just the right amount!
Hello Stacey! Did you or do you plan to make a video about modifying the crotch depth? I have lowered the crotch to achieve a nice fit however I feel the crotch is now roomier and lower than I want it. I am eager to learn how to resolve that. I imagine it would mean sizing down in the crotch while leaving the out seams at the roomier size? 😊 Thanks again for your amazing work! Johanna
Hi Johanna, Yes you are absolutely correct! If you cannot achieve the fit you want with lengthening/shortening the rise or adjusting the side seams, you can go up or down a size in the crotch curve. If you decide to size down in the crotch curve, do that as the last step in your Top Down Center Out workflow -- so try to get the vertical crotch length and the side seams adjusted how you want them first. Then, often times if your pattern has a 5/8" seam allowance, it may be possible to seam rip your existing toile and re-sew the crotch using the next size down (or up), as these seam lines typically do not grade by large increments and adjacent sizes should fall within your seam allowance. Once you have the crotch curve figured out, you will need to re-check the fit, adjusting from the top down and center out once again if any additional tweaks are needed. Ruth has a new post on her Instagram about this very subject if you are following her!
@@maryjones3991 It really depends on your personal fit preferences, the pattern, and how much ease is intended by the design. For example, you would probably want the crotch seam of a slim fitting pair of jeans to be snug against the body (creating less cross-body depth), but you would not want that same fit in a relaxed pair of trousers (generally you'd want more cross-body depth). If the crotch seam feels like it is too tight or it's giving you a wedgie even after lowering the entire crotch seam and adjusting the side seams to create more circumference, then that's usually a giveaway that one needs to try going up a size or two in the crotch seam. You can also try sitting down in the toile and see if the crotch seam feels like it is pinching you from front to back -- unless you want that type of fit, then it's usually a sign to increase the cross-body depth. But for some designs, sometimes you will just need to very carefully evaluate the amount of ease you have in the toile, both in terms of ease in the circumference but also ease through the crotch seam itself. You may need to experiment by sewing one or two sizes up in the crotch seam of the toile and then evaluating whether you like the results better than a smaller crotch size. I'd recommend evaluating whether you need to go up or down a size in the crotch seam as the LAST step in Top Down Center Out -- try to take the fit as far as you can with vertical crotch length adjustments (raising and lowering) and circumference changes at the side seam. If those adjustments can't get you close to a satisfactory fit, then it is time to think about going up or down in the crotch seam size. This can take practice to master, like all complex skills, so be patient and try to experiment.
Stacey, your students are the luckiest folks! Your delivery is spot-on, and complete, without being too "wordy". Thank you so much for this series. I know you started your channel to dive into this fitting method, but I hope you'll consider expanding it to include all the other bits of garment fitting that challenge us home sewists. I'm looking forward to seeing more!
You are so kind, thank you! There will be more!
Never heard of this method. I found it fascinating. Thank you so much for all your time to do this.
You're a tremendous presenter: modest, straightforward, focused. Thank you. Garry, UK.
This is fascinating - can't wait to try it out. I love your style of presenting - no faffing around which is very different to many Americans. I usually give up on them but you make it seem very straightforward. Thank you for taking the time to produce these videos.
I’m a self taught sewer and I’ve never had any books just my instincts. This method completely blows my mind and your explanation and time and effort to show all the details has been incredibly helpful, thank you so much. I usually end up with great fitting pants but it takes so much figuring and fussing about that it makes it unpleasant to do. Then I have no idea what I did to replicate another pair 😣 I’m going to work this out keep a draft block pattern that I know will fit perfectly and start to enjoy making pants again. Once again thank you so very much 💖💕
So glad it's been helpful! Hope you enjoy using the method!
I appreciate you pointing out that using this method helps us avoid blaming our own bodies for fit issues. Thank you for such a clear tutorial!
“order of operations” you are so much a scientist. That said, it is a very helpful description.
this video is so fantastic! i love that you point out how empowering this method is. i originally started sewing because it was so difficult for me to find clothes to fit my hip to waist ratio and i didn’t realize the toll it’s taken on me to constantly put on clothes that are meant for a completely different body. i thought i’d be able to fix these issues by sewing my own clothes, only to find pretty much every pre-made pattern has the same issue!! i’ve recently started to feel resentful of people who can just buy clothes off the rack while i had to do so much work just to look good in a simple pair of pants. and i hated that feeling because it reinforces the idea that some bodies are better than others. all because of some clothes! i’m really excited to try this out! these are probably the best tutorials i have ever seen, you are such a phenomenal teacher. thank you SO much. this method + this playlist feel revolutionary!!
I'm so glad that these videos are speaking to you! I have a very similar story to yours -- I could never buy clothes off the rack bc of my waist to hip ratio, and I encountered similar fit issues with sewing patterns. TDCO was the only fitting method where I actually felt empowered by the end of the process, rather than bewildered, defeated, or frustrated like with every other fitting method I've tried. I hope you enjoy trying the method for yourself!
You are a gifted instructor. You are clear and the samples are killer. Thank you so much for your help.
This was very interesting and quite eye-opening. It makes so much sense, and I could see how one could even transfer this method to fitting shirts (starting from a well-fitted yoke...). As you said, it's more based upon how a garment hangs on the body, and tweaking from there, instead of trying to correct what are actually side issues. You know how sewing books always talk about grainlines needing to be perpendicular to the floor. This is the same, but going one step further back. It's probably totally self-evident for people having learned to fit by draping...
This series is very eye opening. I hope to see more from you on RUclips not only because you are a fabulous teacher, but also because it looks like we have almost identical body types
There will be more! I'm taking a short break right now, but hope to be back soon with more videos. Thanks for watching!
The best tutorials for this method I have found. You are a great teacher, explanations and pictures are very clear and informative. I’m grateful I found your videos. Now to see what else I can learn from you. Thank you.
This step took me forever! 😅 I actually found it really tricky to adjust and pin parts by myself even though I could see everything in the two mirrors. I also forgot to trace my new seam lines and baste them and try on again so I'm very glad I'm watching this video again before moving on to the next step! Thank you sooooo much for doing these videos!! I wouldn't be anywhere near as successful trying this method without them. ☺
I'm so glad the videos are helpful! And yes, the pinning and adjusting to the two-mirror set up can sometimes take a few tries to get the knack of it. But practice helps!
Incredible! I wish I could give this more than one thumbs up. I had listened to podcasts and read the Threads article, but your series has been the most helpful. You are a natural teacher, illuminating key points and guiding us through common pitfalls. When you showed the adjustments you would make before TDCO, I could completely relate. I gave up making a pair of pants because the adjustments were never ending! And the process also made me feel critical of my body. As you mention in the end, TDCO appears to be a much more efficient and compassionate approach
I've also given up on pants because the adjustments just got so overwhelming, and I thought my body was the problem. Now we have an alternative, and I'm so happy to hear that it resonates with you, too!
I just finished a pair of pants by following this video, and feel really good about the fit. Thank you!
That's fantastic! Nothing beats a well-fitting pair of pants, in my opinion. Thank you for sharing!
OMG so few alterations for such a great result. It really blows my mind. Thank you so much!
It blew my mind, too! It really changed the way I think about fitting, and how I understand pants patterns to work. So cool when that happens!
Thank you for your concise and instructive series on TDCO. As an experience sewist all the steps and puzzles and the multitude of adjustments of the past that made for a pair of pants that only sort of fit have suddenly vanished! I haven't tried it yet, but you can be sure I will and with complete confidence that my body is not the problem! Thank you again!
Bravo! You've shown us how to take out the pain out of pants! Hurray!
I am now excited about making pants after watching this series! Thank you for your excellent instructions 😁
I'm so glad the videos are helpful! Have fun making pants!
This series was SO GOOD! I learned so much. I have been through the process of trying to self draft a pants pattern. I was so frustrated that I had to try so many "fixes" where most of the fixes I made just created a new problem. It was a demoralizing process. I used so much paper, fabric and time and still had no product I liked (or could sit down in). I kept pursuing the wholly grail because I really felt that I HAD to create my own pattern since I struggled to find patterns or ready-to-where (other than athletic stretchy pants) that felt good. Front saddle length was always too long, back saddle length too short, aging Mom belly, flat seat, skinny lower legs but wider upper thighs etc etc etc. So much focus on what was WRONG about my body. I love that this approach is body agnostic. I love that I can try cool patterns. And I love that it never calls out any body part. The goal is to achieve the intended look and fit the designer sought. MAGIC. The process is customized, reasonably speedy, and empowering, no matter what body shape or size you happen to be. Your explanations, drawings and fitting segments were articulate, clear and uplifting. My only criticism is now my pocketbook will be lighter with all the fun pants patterns I am going to buy to try with TDCO!! Thank you!!!
The department store idea is so clever! I am loving this method! Thank you for sharing your experiences with Ruth's method!
We simply don’t deserve you. Thank you for your work on this series. You are a wonderful teacher. ILY x
THANK YOU! I don't think this explanation can be beat! It's so clear.
Wow I am completely blown away. The fit on these trousers is perfect. Thanks for this video series!
which video came first? how are you so synced with your spoken lesson + gestured fitting? What magic is this?? 🤯🤯🤯 Honestly this series has been a spiritual experience for me. I feel not only comfortable, but EXCITED to fit pants now (this has been a nightmare for years) and you are 100% free of judgement in the way you teach, and it's totally healing.
love
I'm so glad to hear that! This method was a healing experience for me, too. To film these, I wrote out a list of points I wanted to cover, then recorded a rough audio of me talking about each one. I listened to the audio while filming the fitting (so I knew when to gesture), and then filmed the spoken session while watching the video of the gestured fitting. Suffice it to say, it took a while to figure out how to get everything synced just right! I'm not a professional so I'm sure there's a more efficient way to do it.
@@thecrookedhem smart!! Maybe someday there'll be a "Top Down Center Out" equivalent for video splicing ;p but until then your method seems to work flawlessly.
I think I speak for us all in deeply appreciating the time you took to craft this amazing series.
You are an amazing instructor! Thank you, thank you for taking the time to create this content.
Outstanding video! Extremely informative ~ can’t wait to try this method!
So so helpful. Thank you so much for explaining this method so thoroughly. I used to dislike fitting pants and like my body less because of it. Digging into the TDCO method using the article and your videos, I am already feeling differently about the whole process. Now let's hope my first experiment delivers :). Thanks again!
WELL DONE. As a new sewist who was a bit disheartened, I am rearing to go and try this method.
Thanks for this! You're the first person to suggest that my overall curviness meant that starting with a bigger hip size on the pattern might help. I'm working on the toile for some Adams Pants using TDCO!
There are two types of "curviness" for the human body, one is the balance of the depth and the side-to-side dimensions of the hip circumference and the other is the rate of change between circumferences on the torso from the waist as the fabric travels downwards. In TDCO, because you are only starting with the crotch and inseam for the size selection you can always make this larger or smaller in the toile stage.
beautiful pants! and great videos! Thank you Stacey
This is really helpful and lets me accept my body features while sewing. Thank you very much!
This is absolutely mindblowing! That such a small adjustment can make such a great change... Thank you so much for this series!
You're so welcome! Glad it's helpful!
Super helpful and interesting!
Thanks for making this series I feel like I have really got my head around it now. It would be great to have a Facebook group or Discord server where we could all help each other and share our successes and pattern suggestions.
this is AMAZING! i suddenly feel so confident about trying some of my old pants patterns again that i gave up on! the fit of the pants you made looks incredible. thank you so so much for this series.
I am curious where in the process you would add/remove length....? I am assuming when making flat pattern adjustments prior to adding the extra inches on side and waist?
Top Down Center Out suggests that we don't want the hem of the toile resting on the foot or on the floor while we are fitting (it's fine for the final garment, obviously). If you typically need to shorten the leg in your patterns, do that shortening step before making the toile so that the leg is up off the floor. If it is resting on the floor or your foot, this can affect the drape of the fabric in the leg and interfere with how we interpret the fit higher up in the garment. If you typically need to lengthen the leg, wait until after you've fit the toile, then lengthen right before cutting into the final fabric.
@@thecrookedhem thank you! i definitely always need to shorten so i'll do that during the flat pattern adjustment phase
Wow, incredible fit! Can’t wait to try this method
Thank you. I think this might take care of my drag/crotch problems. I'm short and Ruth said they were the hardest fit so I look forward to attempting this. Picked up extra mirror today. . Ruth also suggested I watch your videos. You are a great educator. Again thank you.
❤ a thousand thumbs up- thank you so much for these videos!
This whole series is great! In addition to finally starting to understand how Top Down Center Out works, I learned general things about how to make a toile. I never bothered to hem my toiles in the past, and I didn't realize you should skip side seam pockets! I thought there was something "weird" about my body because pants that fit my hips always have a huge, gaping waistband. I just sewed and tried on my toile, and on the first pass, achieved a decent fit by pulling the front of the pants higher on the waistband, while also identifying that I need some extra fabric at the top of the pants in the back. I still need to baste and refine the fit, but I'm really happy to have learned so much.
Love this video--thank you!
This whole series is so helpful! You’re a wonderful speaker (clear, concise, engaging)! Thank you thank you! This looks like it was a lot of work to create, and I am hugely appreciative of your efforts!
Thank you so much for this series and this chapter in particular where we get to see how you read the toile! You look stunning in your beautifully sewn pants and they're a perfect example of how I'd like a sophisticated relaxed-fit trouser to fit on me, with similar body-type, so this is very inspiring in more ways than one :)
I'm so glad to hear that! This method really opened the door for me to enjoy the fitting process, and I've noticed that I am wearing a wider range of styles and designs now, too. Being able to make well-fitting trousers feels like a super power, and I hope you have a similar experience!
@@thecrookedhem That's so brill. Thank you! :)
Thank you! thank you! thank you! I now understand this method and feel empowered to make some pants! 💕
Your hair is beautiful!!! thank you for the tips
This is a fantastic resource. I have struggled for years and effectively given up on fitted trousers . I have had to made major adjustments but I think I finally gave well fitting trousers that look like the pattern. Also turns out I need more /length/ rather that width to get the best fit!
This is life changing! Can't wait to execute!
Thanks for this extensive and helpful series! Now fitting pants will be just an easy job. Hope you’ll issue explore more fitting issue in this way in the near future
Wow this is amazing!!!!! Thank you so much for your work to help the rest of us!
This series is amazing! Thank you so much for your detailed explanations. The pants you made fit you perfectly and look so cute and comfy!
Thank you, this is great .
Thank you sooooo much for all the effort you put into this. Very much appreciated! I'm eager to give this a go now.
Thank you so much for this. I am really interested in pants fitting but before your series found the theory behind top down center out great but couldn’t get my head around the practice. You are a natural teacher and pitch this so perfectly for your intended audience. The episode on design intent was a revelation for me and will impact all my sewing pattern choices and fitting, not just for pants
I’m really interested in using the method for fitting pants with a yoke (eg jeans). Would be ace if you had time to cover this, if not I’m sure I’ll give it a go once I get the basics down. Thanks again for your contribution.
Yes! I'm planning on doing a video where I talk about how to use Top Down Center Out with different types of designs and I'll include jeans with a yoke!
Amazing! The results are terrific, nicely done. I found myself a little distracted by your clever editing techniques, rather like having a BSL signer in the corner.... Well, I'm off to cut my own one-legged wonder now. Here goes!
I'm thrilled to have found this method and your very clear explanation of it! I've been trying for years to design a pants sloper that fits both my body and my gender presentation, since off the rack menswear that will fit over my hips is almost always way too big in places where I don't want that, and there aren't really commercial patterns intended for trans bodies. It's so demoralizing. Learning how to design patterns from scratch is very slow-going to the tune of at least 20 mockups over the past few years with endless adjustments that never seem to solve things. I'm so excited to try out TDCO with a pattern copied from a commercial pair of pants that fits me sort of ok to start with, to finally get out of endless rounds of mockup hell and maybe even produce a finished pair of me-made pants! And beyond that this method is giving me so many ideas for designing future patterns, essentially reverse-engineering this into a draping method, so that someday I might have variety in my closet full of me-makes. Thank you so much!
Awesome! I'm so glad this is helpful! Enjoy using the method, it's been a total game changer for me and many others who want to feel more empowered during the fitting process.
I got two of the college dorm mirrors for under $15. Thin and easy to move and store.
Wonderful series! I finally was able to "get" how this method works after today's video. I was anxiously waiting to see the toile in action. Thank you for the hard work I know you have put into this series. Now I can't wait to see the elastic waist tips as that is what I wear in a trouser. You have given us the tools! I could not find the summer issue of Threads magazine anywhere, so am so grateful to see this step by step as you have shown. So good!!
So glad it was helpful! Yes, the elastic waist video is coming up right after the next one on transferring adjustments. I also live in elastic waist pants these days, so it's a topic near and dear to my heart.
Wow so inspiring! Thank you for explaining this method so clearly, can’t wait to try it out!
Such a well explained series. Thank you so much! Now I just need to get my courage up to give it a try for myself.
Wow!!! Fantastic. Thank-you so much for the time and effort you have put into this series.
Each vid is eagerly anticipated and so helpful. Thank you!
Thank you SO much for this series. I'm really learning a lot!
Wow. Just wow.
Another awesome informative video! Thank you so much for doing this!!!
Thankyou, wonderful informative series
Love this. Subscribed.
Thank you for this wonderful series. You are a great teacher. I look forward to how to address elastic waist pants. You really have shown how TDCO works. I've been working on fitting a pants pattern through several test garments and have ended with a pattern that doesn't resemble the original.
Awesomeness!!!!! I love theses videos!
It would be great if you would do a more detailed video of you fitting your toile to the waist band (front and back) AND drawing the seamlines. I'm still missing how to get the proper seam lines ON TO my new Master pattern... I've watched several times. I'm so sorry & frustrated. Thank you for your very hard work. ❤
Thank you so much for all these videos. I have been working on getting a decent pair of pants for quite a few years. I have got somewhat better but never really achieved what I really want. I feel this is going to get me over that hump. Also wow you’re going to show how to transfer it to the pattern. I’m working on a couple of things right now but ASAP. I’m going to start working on a pants toile. I think even experienced in sewing world find this so much better than all that fixing the wrinkles & swayback & too much fabric under the tush. Again thanks . I can’t wait for next video and to get started on this.
Gosh this is genius, thank you so much.
Great video series! So helpful Thank you!
Thanks from Brazil
Wow. Thanks so much for this. I loved it. I can’t wait to try it.
As usual great informations, I have learn so much with your serie of TDCO and have learn to look at a pattern in a different way then previously. This method has a healing power of accepting your body no matter your shape (no more apple, pear etc) but only my shape and the intended design. What a game changer, I can't tank you enough to finnally making me see and loving my body just the way it is and finnaly fitting and sewing a pair of pants. Looking forward to the nexr video and starting my toile too. BTW your pants look fantastic with a great fit! 😀👏👏
Thank you!
Thank you! Very convincing!
Lovely! Can’t wait to try on my daughter.
Amazing concept. Will definitely give this a try. Thank you.
This is SO FANTASTIC, thank you so much! I previously made myself a block for trousers, which means I can 'quickly' assess whether trousers will fit, but... I'm very conscious that all my trousers are ending up looking the same and I'm losing the design intent.
Having designed, drafted and made a pair of jodhpurs recently (so, so, so, so much ease on the hip, aaaaarrrggghhhh) I wanted a new few ways of working and this is brilliant.
Thanks to you (and Ruth). Your little models (the cage and string) and the shorts AND the pair of trousers you made are so excellent in guiding us through. I'm gonna go see whether cigarette pants suit me or not. (Jodhpurs to cigarette...I know)
Ooh, one thing I was thinking of was that this method also might benefit from a return to marking stitching lines, as opposed to cutting lines. This is a preference I learnt from Susan Khalije in her craftsy class, and is just something for people to think about.
Great point! I have switched to marking stitching lines on my toiles for the most part, I find it helps me make alterations faster. The great thing about this method is that the maker can choose how to execute each of the steps -- so if switching to stitching lines rather than cut lines feels easier or saves time, then go for it!
Always look forward to the new video!! this one did not disappoint i understand the process far better than when you started making those videos so thank you :) ! the one mystery left for me is how to put back the pockets on the pattern once you're done fitting. Will that be something you'll explain ?
Yes, I can include that in the next video!
This video series is Masterclass-level! I am interested to get your opinion on using TDCO method to "alter" already made trousers? Or in other words, basically deconstructing a finished trouser to re-fit using TDCO. Does anyone have any experience in attempting this?
Thank you for the kinds words! It is certainly possible to alter trousers using this method. If you are on Instagram, @minimalistmachinist has created a couple of posts about how she used TDCO to alter several pairs of trousers that no longer fit well. You may want to remove the waistband entirely and re-fit it to find your optimal circumference. Then re-pin the trousers back to the altered waistband so that you can experiment with the crotch length on front and back. Then proceed with the rest of the TDCO workflow from there. Good luck!
This is incredible, thank you. I've been too scared to try making trousers as all the fit adjustments sounded too complicated but this seems so much more approachable and body neutral. Also your teaching method and the way you've filmed this is so clear and helpful.
One thing I'd like to ask is how would you approach really asymmetrical bodies? I have severe scoliosis (I've had surgery but my hips are still very uneven, do you have any advice on how to approach this? Is it worth maybe turning the toile inside out and comparing the other side?
I think turning the toile inside out for the other side could work. You could also make a full toile (two legs), and then fit each side a little differently. The TDCO workflow will work just as well on a two-legged toile as a one-legged toile, you will just need to decide where you want to make different adjustments on either side and where you want to make the same adjustments. Hope this helps!
And in case you missed it, here is what Ruth Collins had to say about a very similar question being asked in the comments of the video for Part 2: "All bodies are asymmetric to some extent and often these asymmetries are small compared to the asymmetry temporarily created by body movement such as one leg in front of the other, standing with one hand on a hip etc. The design of the pant should accommodate such asymmetries, it is a collaboration between the body and design. The goal is to empower the maker so there are no rules, each body and pattern combination is unique and it will depend on the style being fitted and the fabric type such as non-stretch/stretch etc. A general suggestion is to fit the side of the body that is larger and tweak the other side in the fashion fabric but makers could also decide to leave the garment symmetric and blend the differences. With prosthetics or other attachments such as ostomy bags this could help makers decide between styles or adapt styles with different waistbands to accommodate these aspects. Everybody is different and unique, there are multiple possible solutions for every fitting issue and only the maker can decide what is optimum for their body."
Thank you so much! I've been too scared to venture into trousers making due to being scared of being confronted with the asymmetry (sounds so silly writing it down) to the point I don't know which side is bigger or higher but I think this approach has the body neutrality that will make me think less critically of my body.
Also I love that Ruth is so mindful of wheelchair users, and those with prosthetics or ostomy bags, it's so refreshing.
Thank you so much for all your work in these videos! I'm ready to jump in now. One question I have is when I'm fitting my toile and positioning the CF and CB, how is the seam allowance accounted for? When I sew up the real pants, aren't those two seams moved by the width of the SA? or am I missing a step?
When you prepare the toile, you sew a line of stay stitching along the crotch seam line from CF to CB. This line of stitches represents the CF and CB of the toile, and it is what you will align with your CF and CB (in other words, you are not using the edge of the toile fabric to align to your center, rather the line of stitches indicating the crotch seam). I cover this at the end of the video on preparing the toile if you missed it (around the 6:12 timestamp): ruclips.net/video/1-pApL2OTKs/видео.html
@@thecrookedhem I see! I've got to rewatch as I do each step, thank you!
@@thecrookedhem I also had forgotten this. Thanks for the reminder.😀
This is so awesome you've put together this playlist. I'm guessing this wouldn't work for pants that are stretch and would have negative ease, right? Is there a method to deal with that?
Good question. Yes, this method can work for pants with stretch/negative ease, but you will need to adapt certain elements of the fitting process. To work with a pattern that has negative ease (or no ease), you will need to use a two-legged toile instead of a one-legged one. Other than that, you can follow the method in the same order as your normally would.
The reason for using a two-legged toile for patterns with negative ease is so that you can keep the center front/back of the toile aligned with your center front/back. If you tried to fit a stretch pattern with a one-legged toile, you would see that the center front and back of the toile would pull away from your centers as the fabric stretches, and it would be difficult to keep things aligned. With a full two-legged toile, you can align the center front/back of the toile with your center front/back and gauge how much stretch or tension you want in the fabric by increasing or decreasing the fabric at the side seams.
It also goes without saying, but I will also mention that for stretch patterns, it's super important to toile in a fabric that has the same amount of stretch as your final fabric.
Hope that helps!
@@thecrookedhem Thank you! I figured it wouldn't work with only one leg. But I so appreciate all you've done to break down this process. I'm totally doing my pants fitting this way now. Seems so much less stressful - and less wasteful of fabric!
This was so great! I can't wait to get started. Have you tried this method with a zipper front? What adjustments are needed?
Yes, I have used this method on pants with all kinds of closures, including a zipper fly in front. The adjustments you'll need will depend on the pattern, so I would recommend taking a close look at the pattern itself as well as the instructions for construction. The center front of the pattern pieces should be marked on most well-drafted patterns. If not, you may be able to figure out where center front is from the instructions. Then mark the center front location on your toile pieces and continue on with TDCO as you normally would, taking care to keep the center front of the pattern aligned with your center front. Alternatively, you can also make a 2-legged toile and include the front closure/fly when making the toile. I would probably not install a zipper in that case, but just mark its location on the toile and pin everything together when fitting. As with most things in sewing, there are a variety of ways to get to the finish line, so use whatever method speaks to you!
@@thecrookedhem Thank you for the reply. The more I thought about it, the more I came up with a plan that is in line with your suggestion. I haven't tried it yet.
Thank you soooo much. I have slim legs & get a lot of baggy/extra fabric under my bottom. Any suggestions please on how to remove.
Su from Queensland Australia.
The best advice I can give would be to experiment with your one-legged toile and see what works for your body. Every combination of body + pattern will be unique, so it's challenging for me to give detailed advice for fit issues -- what works for one body and one pattern might not work for another. When I encounter a fit issue like the one you describe, I try to come at it by asking questions -- for example, what happens if I move the inseam more toward the front or the back? What happens if I shorten the rise? What happens if I remove circumference at the hip and thigh level? It may take a little tinkering over a few sessions, too.
J Stern Designs just put out a video on this exact issue…Troubleshooting Pants Fitting Part 2 (April 11, 2023). She has a RUclips channel and is a follower of The Crooked Hem.
This truly amazing. it seems safe to me that it may be possible to cut the toile out in the fashion fabric as well...
Definitely possible! I have made toiles out of fashion fabric before, it's particularly useful if the fashion fabric is very different from cotton muslin/calico. For example, fabrics that are much heavier or that have much more drape than cotton muslin might be good candidates to use for the toile.
@@thecrookedhem I am so excited to try this out. If you use the fashion fabric, then that also can save a step. I'm usually not too far off the pattern, so I may try this with my next pants make. Thank you so much for these videos. I can't wait to see how this changes the home sewing world.
True, it could save you a step. I have done it both ways -- one way is to use fashion fabric to make the toile (the left leg, let's say), then use the fashion fabric again to make the garment (new left leg + right leg). I've also experimented with using the toile for the final garment, essentially cutting out the toile's mate and sewing them together. If you try this, be aware that there is a risk that the crotch seam will stretch a little or a lot as you are fitting, and it may not pair up exactly with a freshly cut opposite leg, even if you staystitsh the crotch seam. Success may also depend on the pattern and fabric, too; I used a relaxed fit jean pattern with a 13oz denim and saw minimal stretching of the toile so I went ahead and cut out the toile's mate and sewed them together. But the final garment does have a little bit of warping around the back crotch on the toile side (which only I will notice), but that's why I would say this approach is a "proceed at your own risk" option.
Another approach here is to combine the toile and the final garment into one, essentially make a two-legged toile out of your fashion fabric. Add all the extra fabric you need to the top and sides of the pattern, sew the crotch and inseam together, and sew part of the outseam up to the hip. Then follow the Top Down Center Out workflow to fit as you normally would. You will not have the same visibility to the crotch seam fit as you would with a one-legged toile, but you will avoid one side stretching out more than the other.
There is a lot of flexibility with this method, so there may be other solutions, too!
@@thecrookedhem these are great points! Thank you!
I'm wondering if it would be beneficial to draw the grainline on the toile? That way I could see if the fabric was indeed hanging straight. I've watched your videos a couple of times and am getting ready to make a pair of pants. Also do you make a toile for every different pants pattern you use or do you use a pattern that you know fits as a sloper?
Most conventional fitting methods tell us to draw the grainline on the fabric during fitting so that we can see if the pant leg is hanging straight down. Some folks will also claim that the anatomical leg should always be centered in the pant leg, as well, where the center grainline maps to where the center of the anatomical leg is inside the pant. The problem with this advice is that not all pants designs are intended to have a straight grainline when worn, nor is the center grainline intended to map to the anatomical leg for all pants. There are many examples where trying to straighten or move the grainline on a specific design will lead the maker down a very frustrating road while fitting. So for this reason, Top Down Center Out does not ask the maker to add the grainline for fitting; because it is not a universal tool for achieving good fit. Instead, TDCO recommends using the bottom edge of the hem as your guide for whether the leg is straight. If the hem is parallel to the floor, then the leg is hanging well (this is another reason why the hem of your toile should not be touching your foot or the floor for fitting).
The grainline is still important when cutting out your fabric, though, so it's an important element to trace when copying your pattern pieces, just not so useful during the fitting stage.
I do make a toile for every pattern that I fit. Slopers can also work well for some folks, but my issue with a sloper is that it can easily erase the unique fit and design elements from every pair of pants I make. In other words, when I use a sloper, all of my pants end up looking and fitting like the sloper. Which is fine if that is what you want, but one of the reasons why I love TDCO is because it allows me to try many different fits and styles, so I don't want to lose the unique elements of each.
Thank you for these very clear and supportive explanations. I am looking forward to implementing the TCDO system.@@thecrookedhem
I’m getting ready to try this method and having watched your series twice, will watch it again before attempting. Do you use a non stretch fabric for the toile even if the final product will be sewn in a knit?
I'd recommend using a toile fabric that's as close to your fashion fabric as possible. So if using a stretch fabric for your final garment, ideally I would try to find a similar stretch fabric for the toile. Alternatively, I might purchase extra of the fashion fabric to use for the toile, if possible.
If you are using TDCO to fit a stretch pants pattern, I'd also recommend making a full two-legged toile rather than the one-legged one. The negative ease designed into patterns for stretch fabrics will make fitting a one-legged toile quite difficult. When wearing the one-legged toile for a stretch pattern, the center front and back will pull away from your center, complicating the fitting process. A two-legged toile will allow you to align the center of the garment with your center, then as you fit, do your best to make equal adjustments to both sides and transfer those back to the pattern pieces.
@@thecrookedhem thank you Stacey. The pattern I am wanting to try is one that is meant for both woven and stable knits like ponte and does not have negative ease. The fabric I am planning on using is a woven stretch denim with cross grain stretch of 12% to 15%. I was considering using this as well with the Worship jeans. Loved the way they fit you and I do like a closer fit around the hips. So with this type of fabric do you still recommend a two leg toile? Any advice is very welcome. Thank you.
@@trufflesmom1 Ah, I see. If there is no negative ease, then you may be able to get by with a one-legged toile. This might be the kind of thing that you will need to try out for yourself to see if the one-legged toile will be sufficient, and if you find that you are having difficulty assessing the fit, then you can always pivot to a 2-legged toile. There may not be one "right" way of doing it, either -- it's all about what works for you and allows you to execute the steps of TDCO most comfortably.
Please help. Your videos are amazing. I made my toile. I have everything fitted. Almost everything matches up with my pattern marks for the size I picked..... Except the rear. From the side seam that is at the pattern mark to the center back where I went up 2 1/4 inches. Should I just blend it in and re orient the darts? Or is there another way?
Hi there! I'd be happy to try to help, but unfortunately I'm having trouble visualizing where you are in the process and what changes you've made to the toile. Are you transferring adjustments back to the pattern? When you say you went up 2 1/4 inches in the center back, do you mean that you've shortened the vertical length (aka the rise) at the center, but not at the sides? If that's the case, then yes, you will blend the new waistline in the center back to the side seams, sometimes it's helpful to use a curved ruler to avoid any obvious angles or kinks in the seam line as you blend. As for the orientation of the darts, I'd recommend experimenting with dart orientation on the toile when it's on your body -- you can seam rip the darts and re-orient or re-locate them until you're happy with the look and fit. Then you can transfer this new orientation over to your pattern and have confidence that they are in the right spot for your body.
Please let me know if I've mis-understood your question, and I'll do my best to help!
@@thecrookedhem I've cut out and assembled my toile and am doing the fitting. I guess I have lengthened the rise. The front panel meets the markings for the original patterns waist just fine on the toile. The side seam of the back panel also meets the waist at the markings. But as I pin the back to the waistband towards the center back I end up 2 1/4 in into the excess material at the top back leg panel. Does that make more sense?
Yes, perfect sense. You've added some extra vertical length at the center back, and this is a very common adjustment for lots of folks. To get back to your original question -- yes, do your best to blend in this additional fabric along the waistline. The dart legs will probably need to be extended up to meet the new waist seam line, and you may find that you need to adjust the angle of the darts, too, but it depends on the pattern and the body. Trust your intuition on what looks and feels right for the darts. Congrats on coming this far! You're almost at the finish line!
Don't you need to worry about grain as you adjust the side seam up and down? I noticed you didn't mark the grain line on the toile.
No need to worry about the grainline. In Top Down Center Out, we use the hem of the pant leg to guide us as to whether the pant leg is draping correctly on the body. For designs where the grainline is perpendicular to the hem, straightening the hem will also straighten the grainline.
Between 5:20-6:30, you pin the toile to the waistband. And you pin it to the centre line of stitching on the waistband. Is the middle of the waistband important or would you be more concerned about marking where the toile meets up with the seam allowance that you would be using on the waistband? I'm just confused about how to accurately mark and account for this.
That's correct -- you want to make sure you are marking where the toile meets up with the seam allowance on the waistband. If you tuck the toile underneath the waistband and then pin along the seamline (pin through both layers: the waistband and the toile), you can then carefully take off the toile and mark the location of the pins. Then you can "connect the dots" on the toile to draw in the new seamline along the top edge.
Can this method be used for jeans with stretch denim? That's what I'm working on right now and I have so many fit issues, I'm hoping this will help me. Your videos were great and so helpful. As many others have said, you are a great teacher. Thanks so much!
Thank you! I think this method could work for a jeans pattern in stretch denim. There are a few different ways that I've seen folks use TDCO to fit jeans, but what I have done in the past is to fit the waistband first, then fit the yoke to the waistband, then fit the rest of the pants to the yoke+waistband. Stretch fabrics can be a little tricky to use with TDCO if there is negative ease designed into the pattern (the center front and center back seams will pull away from your center front and center back, making the fit through the torso a little challenging to assess with a one-legged toile, so a two-legged toile might be better there). But if your stretch denim pattern has a little positive ease, then I think the classic TDCO approach could work beautifully. The method is very adaptable, so there are likely ways that you can make it work for a wide variety of patterns. I am planning a future video on fitting a pair of jeans with TDCO, as well.
@@thecrookedhem Thanks so much for your quick reply. My problem with this pair is I had already cut out the pattern and the fit was horrible. So after seeing your wonderful video I decided to try - as best I could - the TDCO method to at least make this pair wearable. I ended up with no yoke as most of my fit issues are in the back. I have only basted everything, so nothing lost. I'll try doing yoke first and then fit the rest, as you suggest. Except for the yoke problem, these jeans fit really well now (not perfect, but wearable). I'm happy. I did end up doing both left and right sides because I'm very assymetrical, due to scoliosis. My next pair I will cut out as the technique recommends and go from there. You have no idea how timely your video was for me - and how grateful I am for having found it. Thank you so much. I am a new subscriber.
Thank you immensely for this video series. I'm a visual learner and this has helped it click for me. My only question is - how do you know what the intended crotch seam ease of a pattern is?
I study the product photos from the designer to decipher clues about the amount of ease and the intended fit. I've also contacted patterns companies before to ask them how much vertical ease is intended in the crotch seam a specific design -- sometimes they will give you an exact number. I've got a video about how I read intended fit from product photos if it's helpful! ruclips.net/video/6xdIyVqFcu4/видео.html
Ok, thank you! I'll watch the video and it's great to know I can ask the designers as well.
I have watched all your videos several times but cannot find where you address changing the size to get better depth in the crotch. Please help. And many, many thanks.
Hello! I haven't made a video about that topic specifically, but it's on my list!
To change the amount of cross-body depth in a toile (the distance between center front and center back), we can use the nested, multisized pattern to do most of the work for us. To increase the cross-body depth and give yourself more room in the "saddle" of the pants, you will want to trace the crotch and inseam from one or two sizes up from your measured hip size. To decrease the cross-body depth, you can trace the crotch and inseam from one or two sizes down.
A few things to note: 1) generally speaking for well-drafted patterns, small changes in cross body depth will have a BIG impact on the fit, so it's important to go up or down by one or two sizes at a time and not more. 2) if you do change the cross-body depth on the toile, you will need to re-start the Top Down Center Out fitting process from the beginning when you try on the toile again (so, start by adjusting the vertical length of the rise in the center front and back, then work from center out). In other words, imagine that you are starting with a clean slate after changing the crotch/inseam size -- erase any alterations you made with the previous fittings and start again at the beginning.
As always, go slowly and try to have patience as you adjust the crotch/inseam size. You are essentially adding another variable into the mix along with vertical crotch length and circumference, so take your time and make small, incremental changes until you dial in the fit that works for you.
Sorry i am asking another question its my first time came across this.
So i am working on a toile protea trouser by paradise pattern.
I did the waist band and got that correctly.
Followed your advice and added an 1" on the outer side of the pants.. And 2inch on the top. Extend the darts
Just from looking at it i do know the crotch is too long for me. And i have that problem with any trouser patterns .
Do i just simply pull them up to the position of crotch i want and do marking on calico and transfer that to the paper?
It does have dart at the back and pleate at the front which has options of having it or not having the pleates.
Will wait for your advice x
Thank you
Yep, that's correct! After you've put on your waistband, pull on the one-legged toile and experiment with where you want the crotch seam to be. Sometimes you may need to adjust the length of the crotch in front and back differently -- so adding or removing more in front and less in back or vice versa. Many folks like to tuck the toile fabric underneath the waistband as they are fitting, which can help to keep things a bit more stable as you are pinning, but you can experiment with what works best for you. The important thing is that you follow the top down center out workflow -- adjusting the crotch length first in the center front and back, and then moving out to adjust the sides. When you are satisfied, mark your fabric. It's also a good idea to baste your changes in place, take out all the pins, and try on the toile one final time before you move on to cutting your final fabric.
@@thecrookedhem thank you so much, cant wait to crack on with it. Its so interesting. I made one time jumpsuit and that ripped when i bend down. Out of fear i never made anything. Last yr i maxe sew over it culottes and the crotch was midway of my upper thigh 😑🤦♀️.
This hopefully will solve my crotch problem.
Sorry one more question
I done the waistband and didny realised tht the zip and all that will be there.
The waistband out the pattern was so loose i had to take in alot
do i do the zip fly or facing whatever is on tht side.
I just double check the facing need to be on it too.. Plus waistband. That will be loose on me.. Without thw zipper facing it was so loose
To fit the toile, you do not need to construct the fly guard or the fly facing. On the center front leg piece, there is a notch along the waistline that indicates the center front line -- on the Protea pattern it is indicated as "CF" but all well-drafted patterns with a front zip fly should have the center front marked. This notch tells you where the zipper will be on the final garment. Using the CF notch, mark the center front on your toile fabric and use this line when aligning the half toile to your center front.
When it comes time to construct the final garment, you will need to do some careful observation of the pattern to make sure that your waistband has enough overlap at the front to meet the left and right sides of the pants -- the fly guard on the left side will add extra length to this side of the waistline. There are many ways to do this, so do whatever is most intuitive to you, but here's what I do: I pin the waistband on myself and mark the center front on the right and left side of the waistband (when the waistband is pinned closed, these marks will directly overlap). Then I look at the pattern pieces and measure the extra distance that the fly guard adds on the left side, starting from the center front line and measuring to the edge of the fly guard (remember to subtract seam allowances!!). Then I make sure that my waistband has enough length on the left side to cover the fly guard. I also usually add at least 1/2" on either end of the waistband just to give myself a little extra fabric as I'm constructing the pants -- this gets trimmed off before I close the waistband if I don't need it.
Good luck!
How do you put the waistband on? Do you take the seam allowance off each end?
You'll construct the waistband exactly as you would for the final garment. So when you are finished sewing it, the waistband should look identical to the waistband on the final garment, and the seam allowance along the bottom edge will be exposed. Don't trim that off because you will attach your toile to that seam allowance. Then, wrap the waistband around your body and pin. Some folks also go the extra mile and add a closure (snap, button/buttonhole, etc).
When you raised the waistline at CF and CB, how did that affect the grain line?
Adding fabric to the waistline at the CF and CB straightened the grain line. I've got a diagram with some explanation in my blog post about these trousers if you'd like to read more: thecrookedhem.net/2022/04/25/top-down-center-out-with-the-eve-trousers/
Hi Stacey! So useful. Just a quick question about the depth of the crotch seam. I think I may need to adjust this and wondered if you had a video about this at all or any tips?
I don't have a video yet, but I do have some tips. If you find that you need to change the cross-body depth of your toile (making the crotch seam or "saddle" of the pants wider or narrower for your body), then you can grade up or down in the crotch seam using the multisized pattern. So, let's say I selected size 14 based on my hip measurement, so I trace the size 14 crotch and inseam when preparing my toile. When fitting, I discover that I need more cross-body depth to get the right mount of ease through the thigh and torso. So I will select a new size to trace for the crotch seam line, in this case going up in size to create more cross-body depth. I would then need to blend the new crotch point (in this case the crotch hook will be slightly longer if going up a size) down along the inseam all the way to the hem, essentially adding a little fabric at the inseam to accommodate the wider cross-body depth. Obviously the opposite is true if you need to go down in size at the crotch seam. I would strongly encourage doing a little bit at a time, say 1-2 sizes and then re-assess the fit. You will notice that well-drafted patterns grade the cross-body depth by tiny amounts compared to how much side seam/hip circumference is grading, so a little can go a long way. Keep in mind that once you change the cross-body depth in the toile, you will need to go back and check the fit from the top down and center out (so start at the beginning of the toile fitting steps). Feel free to experiment here, this may take a little tinkering to dial in the right combination of adjustments, but you can absolutely do it! Ruth Collins has several examples of this on her Instagram if its helpful, here's one where she graded down in the front crotch curve of the Bisque trousers: instagram.com/p/CV6YPdmv2Rs/
Stacey this series is amazing! Thank you so much. To follow on from this thread, it you have a flat seat and lifting the centre back waistline still leaves too much fabric under the butt then I should try a size down crotch line? I suppose that would make sense as I don’t need as big a saddle. ?
@@vickimaiorano5763 Hi Vicki, I'm so glad you are enjoying the series. The solution to excess fabric under the butt might be different depending on the pattern, but what you say makes sense to me. Going down a size in the crotch seam is certainly something you could try. I have also played with taking in the side seams, or experimenting with the back dart intake. One final note is that sometimes there is excess in the back leg to accommodate a seated position or other normal movements throughout the day (bending, climbing stairs, etc). So I like to remind myself to try sitting down or bending over in my toile and seeing what happens to that excess. Of course only you can be the judge of what is "too much" excess and just the right amount!
@@thecrookedhem thanks for the reply. Ill play around 👍😀
Hello Stacey!
Did you or do you plan to make a video about modifying the crotch depth?
I have lowered the crotch to achieve a nice fit however I feel the crotch is now roomier and lower than I want it. I am eager to learn how to resolve that. I imagine it would mean sizing down in the crotch while leaving the out seams at the roomier size? 😊
Thanks again for your amazing work!
Johanna
Hi Johanna, Yes you are absolutely correct! If you cannot achieve the fit you want with lengthening/shortening the rise or adjusting the side seams, you can go up or down a size in the crotch curve. If you decide to size down in the crotch curve, do that as the last step in your Top Down Center Out workflow -- so try to get the vertical crotch length and the side seams adjusted how you want them first. Then, often times if your pattern has a 5/8" seam allowance, it may be possible to seam rip your existing toile and re-sew the crotch using the next size down (or up), as these seam lines typically do not grade by large increments and adjacent sizes should fall within your seam allowance. Once you have the crotch curve figured out, you will need to re-check the fit, adjusting from the top down and center out once again if any additional tweaks are needed. Ruth has a new post on her Instagram about this very subject if you are following her!
@@thecrookedhem How do you know if you need more crotch depth?
@@maryjones3991 It really depends on your personal fit preferences, the pattern, and how much ease is intended by the design. For example, you would probably want the crotch seam of a slim fitting pair of jeans to be snug against the body (creating less cross-body depth), but you would not want that same fit in a relaxed pair of trousers (generally you'd want more cross-body depth). If the crotch seam feels like it is too tight or it's giving you a wedgie even after lowering the entire crotch seam and adjusting the side seams to create more circumference, then that's usually a giveaway that one needs to try going up a size or two in the crotch seam. You can also try sitting down in the toile and see if the crotch seam feels like it is pinching you from front to back -- unless you want that type of fit, then it's usually a sign to increase the cross-body depth. But for some designs, sometimes you will just need to very carefully evaluate the amount of ease you have in the toile, both in terms of ease in the circumference but also ease through the crotch seam itself. You may need to experiment by sewing one or two sizes up in the crotch seam of the toile and then evaluating whether you like the results better than a smaller crotch size. I'd recommend evaluating whether you need to go up or down a size in the crotch seam as the LAST step in Top Down Center Out -- try to take the fit as far as you can with vertical crotch length adjustments (raising and lowering) and circumference changes at the side seam. If those adjustments can't get you close to a satisfactory fit, then it is time to think about going up or down in the crotch seam size. This can take practice to master, like all complex skills, so be patient and try to experiment.
@@thecrookedhem Thank you, that makes sense!