Whoa your illustration was AMAZING!!! I've watched several videos on this method and could not wrap my head around it until you showed your hoop and strings! THANK YOU!!!
I am absolutely floored by your skills as an educator in this series - what a perfectly crafted set of informative videos. Thank you very much for this
I never realized how the full bust/full tummy names for adjustments does have an impact on how I view my body. Like I went from having an ED years ago to just looking at my body as a neutral shape so I don’t care about being thin having a flat belly and being in the standards anymore. But the thing is when you don’t fit in those standards sewing takes a LOT of energy when you have to do all these alterations to your patterns and even making a basic set of slopers is suuuper long work and I totally have been thinking more than once urg I wish I could just have standard proportions and fit in any pattern with minimal modifications I would sew so much more than I do now. And in a way that’s a form of like self body shaming so totally interested in this method (I’m still watching the vid)
I had a similar experience when trying this method for the first time. At this stage in my life, I thought I had a fairly body neutral attitude toward my own body, but I didn't realize how the body part adjustment names ("flat", "low", "full", etc) were subconsciously having an impact on how I felt about myself. Using this method has felt truly liberating in a lot of ways.
Thank you for sharing your comments about body shaming. I haven’t thought much about it even though I went from a size 5 to a size 14! I do appreciate what you’re saying. I’m 411 and fat. No one makes patterns for someone my size. One thing I have learned is that if you get one pattern that fits you after adjustments then you’re good to go. You don’t need to buy a bunch of patterns. We all agree pants are a waist band and two legs. Oh and fabric covering my big belly and my big butt. I’m excited about this message and I hope you will be too. There really are simple ways to make patterns fit. It’s just that some people try to make it more complicated than it needs to be. Please try this method. I think it will be successful for you. And thank you again for sharing your thoughts. I think a lot of people will benefit from reading them
I am aging, my body is aging, which is a normal process, but this means I need to change my approach to fitting patterns for my "new" figure. There's nothing "wrong" with my body, just because the standard printed patterns don't fit me the same as they used to. The terminology used for traditional fitting directions which can be very depressing if one takes them literally. I'm looking forward to trying this TDCOM method.
I looove the way you demonstrate this with the little wood circles and strings that’s so creative and clever !! you explain things so well can’t wait for next videos 😊 I wonder tho how the method works when pockets are included
I'll cover how to handle pockets once we get to the videos about preparing for the toile. Essentially you will omit the pockets when you fit the toile and add them back when making the final garment.
I think your circle and pieces of string model is brilliant way to explain what we are going to do. I am excited to try this fitting method as soon as I have watched the rest of your videos.
I loved your example with the wood circle and strings! Great for visual learners! Thank you for your time and resources to teach us about this technique!
This seems like standard pant draping I learned in design school decades ago. Nice to see someone has introduced this to the home sewing market. It is indeed the fastest way to fit and clean a pair of pants.
I'm a beginner... very beginner... I've made one item of clothing so far, which was a pair of pajama pants for my husband, who has a standard size body, so less intimidating to sew for. I'm a large woman who's found it difficult to find clothing that fits well, rather than "it fits, good enough" and decided to try my hand at learning to sew. I've watching videos about making clothes, fitting clothes, in order to familiarize myself with the process and terminology, because that makes things a little less daunting for me. I'm really excited by the possibilities of this series and looking forward to watching all of it. I think coming into this as a beginner who's never tried to fit a pair of pants could be really interesting. I've seen and heard that fitting pants well can be complicated, and that seems to be especially true for larger bodies, since we carry weight in so many different ways, and I love the idea that I may not have to focus a lot of attention on specific body parts. Although I've mostly made peace with how my body is on any given day, I also don't want need to be hyper aware of the size of my thighs, etc. I paused the video to write the comment after you talked about that part, because it feels so important. Now, off to finish this video and take in all the others. 🙂
I'm so glad you've found this series! Coming to the TDCO method as a beginner is, in many ways, the best way to approach it. When one has studied the other methods, it can be very hard to "unsee" all of the body scrutiny and labeling that is so baked in to the traditional methods of fitting. As a beginner, you can start with a clean slate and just build up your skills within the ecosystem of Top Down Center Out body neutrality. I hope that makes sense! 😊 As for fitting larger bodies, I will share a tidbit from Ruth Collins: the issue seems to be more often that the pattern has not been graded well for larger sizes. (Pattern grading is the process of turning a base size into larger and smaller sizes to create a full range of sizes for a particular garment). I think a lot of conventional fitting wisdom says that larger bodies are harder to fit because of something inherently different about the body itself -- which puts the "blame" on the body, rather than on the pattern or the pattern grading. The fitting process therefore becomes more challenging because the larger sizes just haven't been proportioned correctly to begin with, and that makes more work for you. But importantly, the issue is with the pattern, not your body. What Ruth sees often is that when the larger sizes are scaled up from smaller ones, too much cross body depth has been added in the crotch seam (cross-body depth is the distance between the center front and center back, or the "saddle" of the pants), and not enough vertical crotch length. It can take some practice to see this issue in the toile, but if you have the confidence to experiment and practice, you can start to notice it right away. One more thing to share is this video from Velvety Cleopatra, who does a fantastic job of documenting the ups and downs of fitting especially as someone who has been told that their larger body is going to be challenging to fit. Gemma shows how successful one can be when following the TDCO method: ruclips.net/video/CRjYsjvhGt4/видео.html
So happy, that you're making these videos on the TDCO method. Your waistband & seam prop really helped to cement it in my mind. Looking forward to learning more then trying it on myself and then with my students.
I thought so too! This idea came directly from Ruth Collins and the materials she's shared on Instagram. It really helped me visualize how the method works!
Just came across your videos and I'd never heard of this method. I'm so excited to try it! I was fascinated and delighted with your hoop and string seam demonstration. You were able to illustrate the concepts so clearly! Thank you
Welcome! I'm glad the method resonates with you, it's a different way to approach fitting that I find much more empowering compared with traditional fitting methods. If you are on Instagram, you can also check out the method's creator, Ruth Collins (@ithacamaven), as she often shares thoughtful tidbits and expands upon what I've laid out here in these videos.
I was tempted to skip to the fourth video in this series because I thought I understood TDCO well enough to get going, but I'm so glad i watched your whole introduction. It blew my mind when I realized that the waistband could be compared to the foundation of a house because of gravity, just turned upside down. The pants constructed hanging from the foundation instead of being built on top of it. Does that make sense? It helps me grasp what's going on conceptually, and then adding the qualities of the fabric (stiff, stretchy, flowy, etc) to the mental model.
This is so helpful Stacy! Your explanations are clear and approachable for all level of sewists and really make a person want to try cause it’s all so doable. Thank you!!!
The hoop string was so clever! Great way to explain how a pattern work! I personally explain the pants pattern making students try fit a paper on a Barbie doll or on a person.
This is blowing my mind!! Thanks for the clear illustrations and explanations!! Excited to watch all the videos and try the method! As someone who needs a "flat butt adjustment" I'm especially appreciating the body neutral aspect!
The body neutral aspect is my favorite part. It's made pants fitting actually *enjoyable* for the first time ever. No more labeling my body and assigning flaws. My body is what it is, and the pattern can map to it without comparison to some sort of ideal.
This is the most brilliant explanation and demonstration of how the waistband and seams of trousers interact with each other and your body. Absolutely fantasic!!
So happy I found your channel. Jennifer at J Stern Designs recommended you. Your explanation of this process was very helpful/informative. I truly excited about trying this method.
Thank you. This in incredibly enlightening. I just made my first half-toile. It was very close, so my mind started going down the old part-specific paths--I think I'll now wait for a few more of your videos! Also, I hope someday you and Ruth will get interested in sleeves.
You are a fantastic speaker and you must be a great teacher. I am really looking forward to this pant method and I must say you make things easy to understand. Now on to part 3.🥴
Thank you so much! We can see the great teacher you are in this very very clear explanation of the TDCO method. You've open my eyes on some new concepts, because there so well explained + hints and reflexions. I'm looking forward for your other videos. You're like those scientific that can vulgarized notions in order for everybody to understand!!
I have watched a few videos and articles on this subject. The way you have presented and explained this concept brings understanding. I now look forward to trying this method.
you are doing a truly wonderful job here. I am in part 2 right now but plan to listen to the whole series. Rge visual was the best that I have seen out there.Please keep up the good work.
I'm so glad I found your channel, Stacey! I can really relate to your thought processes and you have a tremendous and unique way of explaining concepts that many folks struggle with. (I LOVE science!) So, thank you for taking the time to create these and for promoting sewing, and I am eager to view all your videos.
Thank you for very clear verbal and visual explanation of the physics of a pants pattern! Looking forward to seeing the rest of your videos in this series. I love the results you're getting with this method over on your Instagram page.
I’m so excited to try this. I’ve basically stayed away from pants that are fitted because I couldn’t ever figure out how to adjust the sizing. My waist is two sizes smaller than my hip, but more like my butt than hip and I’ve never had luck. I’ll be trying this soon!
Thank you so much for doing these videos! I’m really eager to start making better fitting pants for myself and have high hopes after watching this. Can’t wait for the next instalment. 😀
looking forward to watching the rest of this series - you explain it really well! i'm balking at the design intent part because i ended up on this video because i sew vintage patterns and a pair of 60s cigarette pants which looked almost like skinny jeans on the packet and were described as 'slim fit' were anything but: i have over 5 inches of ease round my knee and thigh. no thank you! i think its defo acceptable and possible to respect the intent and still adjust. i'm still very new to sewing but from the start ive come to it from a viewpoint of this pattern is a starting block to help me make my own thing. also from day one ive never actually followed a pattern 100% either - everything so far has been hybrids of various patterns and ideas, so there's that lol
These are all excellent points. Sometimes there are patterns where we don't have much info on what the design intent is. Vintage patterns are good examples of this, where we may only have a description or a drawing, and it's not guaranteed to be accurate. Other times, we as makers want to take the pattern merely as a starting point and go from there to create our own vision. Top Down Center Out advocates for understanding the design intent (if/when possible) and then deciding whether to stick with that design, make it into something else, or move on. For me, I typically will spend a fair amount of time trying to stay close to the design intent before moving on or decided to hack a pattern, but that's just me and I certainly wouldn't expect everyone to adopt that approach -- esp if you love to combine patterns and remix different ideas together. I'm always so inspired by folks who do that! At the end of the day, each one of us is the boss of our own sewing and that's what makes it such a rewarding skillset!
@@thecrookedhem definitely! for me i find a lot of fitting tutorials quite tricky to follow because they often rely on things like bust points, hip points etc being marked on the pattern by the designer and... i dunno if you've ever used a genuine pattern from the 40s and 50s but things like bust points are in a different place to where they would be on modern patterns because of bullet rbas and you're sat there staring at a bit of tissue paper that's totally blank with holes punched in it for 'markings' going '....erm..' (side note cos i know there'll always be one person who reads the comments and panics - no i don't chop up original patterns i'm not a heathen i trace them out first!) so this method of fitting seems like it's much easier to wangle! and yeah i'm the same as you i'll make it up in tissue first and see what the original looks like before doing my own thing (for me it's from a historical fashion nerd perspective). I find it interesting she doesn't seem to advocate for a tissue fitting first because i find that a really useful step which irons out a majority of the big obvious width and length problems so it fits on a basic level with less fabric wastage and the toile stage fine tunes it to make it fitted and look pretty
I think what you say about respecting the designers original intent is brilliant, after all we do pick our patterns based on what they say the final outcome looks like, else we would all be drafting our own base templates and skipping buying patterns at all. I am looking forward to watching the rest of this series to use this method to select patterns with the design elements that allow me to make minimal corrections (if I am understanding you correctly?). That's all I've ever really wanted from patterns, I'm usually between pattern sizes, which means that some elements fit and some have to be adjusted.
Yes, you're right! If we respect the designer's original intent for the design, then a well-drafted pattern from an experienced designer should need minimal adjustments to fit all body shapes. I'm usually between sizes, as well, and TDCO has been a huge help for me to understand how and where to blend between sizes for each design. I hope you enjoy using the method once you try it!
Your visual with the hoop was mind blowing! I do have one concern however, and that has to do with respecting the designer intent. If, like you mentioned in a comment below, the pattern is a well-drafted one from an experienced designer, then this is definitely something we should keep in mind. But I think you should put a little more emphasis on the "well-drafted" part because in the wild west of indie patterns there's a whole bunch out there that are NOT well-drafted and inexperienced sewists don't always realize that just because someone is selling a clothing pattern it doesn't mean they actually know what they're doing.
This is a great point, and it brings up a lot of interesting issues within the sewing community. I certainly agree that choosing a well-drafted pattern is one of the most important steps one can take toward having a stress-free fitting process. And yes, there are a lot of questionable drafting practices out there, from tiny indie pattern companies to the Big 4. But how to handle the issue is tricky. It's incredibly difficult to define "well-drafted" in technical terms, especially those that a beginner could understand and look for in a pattern. Is it ratio of crotch depth to length? Leg angle? Shape of the crotch curve? There are a lot of so-called drafting "rules" circulating in the sewing community for what constitutes a well-drafted pattern, but every single one of them can be broken in the hands of a skilled designer. Top Down Center Out recommends that if one wants a "well-drafted" pattern, the maker should look for a designer who has many years of experience and who has successfully made commercial patterns that fit a wide range of body shapes and sizes. This advice will rule out many of the novice designers, but it still does not guarantee that the maker will end up choosing a well-drafted pattern. There's a lot of subjectivity involved, and designers don't always share their technical backgrounds. The other issue here is pattern reviews, which the sewing community has been grappling with for years. Ideally, low quality patterns would be identified as such by the sewing community. But most reviews are highly subjective and usually biased. Honest reviews are hard to find and are unfortunately no less subjective from the rest. So what is a beginner sewist to do? I'm not sure there is a perfect solution other than to look for experienced designers, choose patterns that are successful for many people, and pay attention to drafting details on the designs that work well for them. But I'd love to hear your thoughts if you have your own strategies that work well for identifying good drafting.
This is excellent! Your visual explanations are genius! I have a question about waistband and design intent: if the pattern is designed to be low rise or ultra high rise, how do I know where to position the waistband when I fit it? I think this is crucial to the rest of the process
Yes, you are absolutely right!. The positioning of the waistband is crucial for a successful fitting experience. The short answer is that you will need to make a test waistband and fit it to your body to determine the ideal placement for your anatomy and your personal preferences. You may want to experiment and try a few different waistband locations/positions (e.g. slightly tilted forward or completely parallel to the floor) or try experimenting with the amount of ease in your waistband and the height of the waistband. Everyone will prefer something slightly different, so it's important to invest some time up front to really dial in your preferences for the waistband before moving forward. I have another video on fitting the waistband that may also help to add some color to this aspect of Top Down Center Out, but feel free to leave another comment if you still have questions!
I've read so much about TDCO methode and saw so many tutorials. But just now, I get it! My English is not native and that made it more difficult. But you explained it so well! The demonstration made it even more clear to me. But I think that it only works on a straight waistband and not one with elastic (or half elastic) in it. Is that right? I can't wait until your next video and thank you and Ruth for this new adventure and way of looking at the patterns and my body. ;-)
I'm glad this is helpful! You can use the Top Down Center Out method with any kind of waistband -- straight, contoured, elastic, half-elastic, or even pants with no waistband and just a facing. I'm planning on dedicating one or two videos to waistbands in the future, so I'll go over the different choices you can make with each one.
I like unstructured trousers with elastic waistbands and am a newish returner to sewing. This means I've only made a few 'easy' garments for myself so far and I'd like to try something a bit more challenging to help me learn. I am just about to start making a pair of jeans-like trousers and I am puzzled reading the pattern sizing that my waist size (which hasn't changed that much recently) has suddenly dumped me 2 sizes up from what I normally wear while my hips are three sizes down. (Admittedly, 'proper' trousers always look like jodhpurs on me...) This made me think that these trousers might look a bit weird once I've adjusted them - so I'm hoping to use the TDCO method to make them not look weird. I like the idea that just a single legged toile is all you need though I'm struggling with the concept that it will work no matter how crazy your pattern style is. Stacey - you have a way of making me believe this will work. You have a great manner and I'm going to persevere and make some trousers that fit me without looking weird.
I'm glad these videos are helpful! A one-legged toile is usually sufficient for most trousers, although there are some exceptions where you would want to make a full two-legged toile (for example, when working with stretch fabrics or asymmetrical designs).
If your pants have a facing instead of a waistband, you would just fit the facing by itself as the first step. In that sense, the facing acts as the waistband when using Top Down Center Out. It will be similar to fitting a contoured waistband -- when you fit the facing, you will want to optimize where the facing sits on your torso (how high or low), how much curvature the facing has (to match your body curvature), and how much ease there is.
I really love your demonstration. Thank you!! Do you know how to get a copy of the tdco instruction? I have looked everywhere for a copy of Threads magazine (Summer) without any luck. Thank you for all your help in explaining this concept your visual is spot on. I look forward to the next video!
I bought one on eBay the other day. Paid $14-15 for it but I figured it would be worth it if this method truly is life changing. You might check on there.
It's interesting you say that we work on one leg and use that as the basis for the whole garment. One side of the body is not the same as the other. For example my left buttock is very different from the right one causes me no end of fitting issues. I will be interested to learn how the differences are dealt with.
All bodies are asymmetric to some extent and often these asymmetries are small compared to the asymmetry temporarily created by body movement such as one leg in front of the other, standing with one hand on a hip etc. The design of the pant should accommodate such asymmetries, it is a collaboration between the body and design. The goal is to empower the maker so there are no rules, each body and pattern combination is unique and it will depend on the style being fitted and the fabric type such as non-stretch/stretch etc. A general suggestion is to fit the side of the body that is larger and tweak the other side in the fashion fabric but makers could also decide to leave the garment symmetric and blend the differences. With prosthetics or other attachments such as ostomy bags this could help makers decide between styles or adapt styles with different waistbands to accommodate these aspects. Everybody is different and unique, there are multiple possible solutions for every fitting issue and only the maker can decide what is optimum for their body.
I need help with my top down center out. This is my second attempt fitting pants. I've come to the conclusion that my legs are more angled in relation to my hips than the average woman. I think i need a knock knee adjustment. This would change the grain line. From what I gather from the video, this would change design intent. I've already attempted to fit a one leg toile with this top down center out method. The results were laughable. I think the middle of my ankle, where the center grain line should be, is about 3 to 5 inches more inward than patterns assume. I didn't have enough extra fabric at the sides to finish fitting, so I'm taking a break. Here's my conundrum: If I change the grain line with a knock knee adjustment, then I change design intent. If I only change the inseam and not the grain line, I get a wide leg pant, changing the design intent. If I change the inseam and outseam, but not the grain line, the pant will probably not lay correctly. It's just too big of a difference in grain line angle. Thoughts? I don't see how it's possible to preserve design intent.
I’m planning to release more videos showing how to prepare the pattern pieces and then how to fit a toile using the Top Down Center Out method. I will demonstrate how to use the method to explore different solutions to one’s own specific fitting issues, and hopefully this will be helpful. Ultimately, each project is a unique combination of the pattern and the body, so I’m unable to offer specific fitting advice. However, my goal in making these videos is to empower you with the tools to unravel these fitting conundrums.
Have you seen this method used on a body where the buttocks are significantly lower than the crotch point (as in inches lower). (Keeping the general idea that the crotch point is about where the perineum is.)
I've seen this method work for folks of all shapes and sizes -- buttocks that are high or low, round or flat, and large or small. If you are on Instagram, you can follow the Top Down Center Out hashtag (#topdowncenterout) to see examples from lots of different people trying the method.
@@thecrookedhemThanks for getting back to me. I have been following the TDCO for awhile & read everything and have attempted... Have had chats with Ruth..... Gonna start pants later this week (the RC pattern), per her method. (Summer sewing was figuring out a boxy top pattern and then hacking)☺️
Learning to make all styles of pants fit all bodies is a #slowfashion skill set. Like #slowfood, it takes patience and commitment to learn. There is a balance between making this skill set as accessible as possible and providing enough information so people can truly learn and understand. Only you can decide if it is a skill set you want to invest your time to acquire.
Whoa your illustration was AMAZING!!! I've watched several videos on this method and could not wrap my head around it until you showed your hoop and strings! THANK YOU!!!
I am absolutely floored by your skills as an educator in this series - what a perfectly crafted set of informative videos. Thank you very much for this
I never realized how the full bust/full tummy names for adjustments does have an impact on how I view my body. Like I went from having an ED years ago to just looking at my body as a neutral shape so I don’t care about being thin having a flat belly and being in the standards anymore. But the thing is when you don’t fit in those standards sewing takes a LOT of energy when you have to do all these alterations to your patterns and even making a basic set of slopers is suuuper long work and I totally have been thinking more than once urg I wish I could just have standard proportions and fit in any pattern with minimal modifications I would sew so much more than I do now. And in a way that’s a form of like self body shaming so totally interested in this method (I’m still watching the vid)
I had a similar experience when trying this method for the first time. At this stage in my life, I thought I had a fairly body neutral attitude toward my own body, but I didn't realize how the body part adjustment names ("flat", "low", "full", etc) were subconsciously having an impact on how I felt about myself. Using this method has felt truly liberating in a lot of ways.
Thank you for sharing your comments about body shaming. I haven’t thought much about it even though I went from a size 5 to a size 14! I do appreciate what you’re saying. I’m 411 and fat. No one makes patterns for someone my size. One thing I have learned is that if you get one pattern that fits you after adjustments then you’re good to go. You don’t need to buy a bunch of patterns. We all agree pants are a waist band and two legs. Oh and fabric covering my big belly and my big butt. I’m excited about this message and I hope you will be too. There really are simple ways to make patterns fit. It’s just that some people try to make it more complicated than it needs to be. Please try this method. I think it will be successful for you. And thank you again for sharing your thoughts. I think a lot of people will benefit from reading them
Oh my gosh Stacey! The way you demonstrate these principles is AMAZING!
I am aging, my body is aging, which is a normal process, but this means I need to change my approach to fitting patterns for my "new" figure. There's nothing "wrong" with my body, just because the standard printed patterns don't fit me the same as they used to. The terminology used for traditional fitting directions which can be very depressing if one takes them literally. I'm looking forward to trying this TDCOM method.
😊😊
I looove the way you demonstrate this with the little wood circles and strings that’s so creative and clever !! you explain things so well can’t wait for next videos 😊 I wonder tho how the method works when pockets are included
I'll cover how to handle pockets once we get to the videos about preparing for the toile. Essentially you will omit the pockets when you fit the toile and add them back when making the final garment.
The way your hoop and strings end up becoming a teeny pair of pants! Genius! Also, how fortunate are your trainees to have a teacher like you around?!
This is wildly simple and brilliant. Excellent work explaining this. Your teaching tool with bands and string is perfect!
Glad it was helpful!
I think your circle and pieces of string model is brilliant way to explain what we are going to do. I am excited to try this fitting method as soon as I have watched the rest of your videos.
I loved your example with the wood circle and strings! Great for visual learners! Thank you for your time and resources to teach us about this technique!
Yours is the BEST explanation of this method. Thanks so much. I cant wait to try it.!
This seems like standard pant draping I learned in design school decades ago. Nice to see someone has introduced this to the home sewing market. It is indeed the fastest way to fit and clean a pair of pants.
This is so so very excellent. Thanks so much for making this available. You are a national pants fitting treasure!!! :)
Wow, thank you! ❤️
I think this is actually the draping method, popularized and applied. The best method!
Hands down, this visual is amazing - I'm not even half way through the video. Thank you!
Mind blown! I love your model!! ❤
Thank you! Your visual is the bomb!
I fully credit Ruth Collins, the creator of the method, for thinking of it! It's sooo helpful in understanding how the method works.
I'm a beginner... very beginner... I've made one item of clothing so far, which was a pair of pajama pants for my husband, who has a standard size body, so less intimidating to sew for. I'm a large woman who's found it difficult to find clothing that fits well, rather than "it fits, good enough" and decided to try my hand at learning to sew. I've watching videos about making clothes, fitting clothes, in order to familiarize myself with the process and terminology, because that makes things a little less daunting for me. I'm really excited by the possibilities of this series and looking forward to watching all of it. I think coming into this as a beginner who's never tried to fit a pair of pants could be really interesting. I've seen and heard that fitting pants well can be complicated, and that seems to be especially true for larger bodies, since we carry weight in so many different ways, and I love the idea that I may not have to focus a lot of attention on specific body parts. Although I've mostly made peace with how my body is on any given day, I also don't want need to be hyper aware of the size of my thighs, etc. I paused the video to write the comment after you talked about that part, because it feels so important. Now, off to finish this video and take in all the others. 🙂
I'm so glad you've found this series! Coming to the TDCO method as a beginner is, in many ways, the best way to approach it. When one has studied the other methods, it can be very hard to "unsee" all of the body scrutiny and labeling that is so baked in to the traditional methods of fitting. As a beginner, you can start with a clean slate and just build up your skills within the ecosystem of Top Down Center Out body neutrality. I hope that makes sense! 😊
As for fitting larger bodies, I will share a tidbit from Ruth Collins: the issue seems to be more often that the pattern has not been graded well for larger sizes. (Pattern grading is the process of turning a base size into larger and smaller sizes to create a full range of sizes for a particular garment). I think a lot of conventional fitting wisdom says that larger bodies are harder to fit because of something inherently different about the body itself -- which puts the "blame" on the body, rather than on the pattern or the pattern grading. The fitting process therefore becomes more challenging because the larger sizes just haven't been proportioned correctly to begin with, and that makes more work for you. But importantly, the issue is with the pattern, not your body.
What Ruth sees often is that when the larger sizes are scaled up from smaller ones, too much cross body depth has been added in the crotch seam (cross-body depth is the distance between the center front and center back, or the "saddle" of the pants), and not enough vertical crotch length. It can take some practice to see this issue in the toile, but if you have the confidence to experiment and practice, you can start to notice it right away.
One more thing to share is this video from Velvety Cleopatra, who does a fantastic job of documenting the ups and downs of fitting especially as someone who has been told that their larger body is going to be challenging to fit. Gemma shows how successful one can be when following the TDCO method: ruclips.net/video/CRjYsjvhGt4/видео.html
So happy, that you're making these videos on the TDCO method. Your waistband & seam prop really helped to cement it in my mind. Looking forward to learning more then trying it on myself and then with my students.
The ring and string example is brilliant!
I thought so too! This idea came directly from Ruth Collins and the materials she's shared on Instagram. It really helped me visualize how the method works!
Just came across your videos and I'd never heard of this method. I'm so excited to try it! I was fascinated and delighted with your hoop and string seam demonstration. You were able to illustrate the concepts so clearly! Thank you
Welcome! I'm glad the method resonates with you, it's a different way to approach fitting that I find much more empowering compared with traditional fitting methods. If you are on Instagram, you can also check out the method's creator, Ruth Collins (@ithacamaven), as she often shares thoughtful tidbits and expands upon what I've laid out here in these videos.
I was tempted to skip to the fourth video in this series because I thought I understood TDCO well enough to get going, but I'm so glad i watched your whole introduction. It blew my mind when I realized that the waistband could be compared to the foundation of a house because of gravity, just turned upside down. The pants constructed hanging from the foundation instead of being built on top of it. Does that make sense? It helps me grasp what's going on conceptually, and then adding the qualities of the fabric (stiff, stretchy, flowy, etc) to the mental model.
That's a great analogy! Love it!
Excellent teaching! Thank you so much for your videos. Now I feel ready to sew pants. I hope to see more from you in the future.
Wonderful, comprehensive explanation. Looking forward to the last two in the series.
This is so helpful Stacy! Your explanations are clear and approachable for all level of sewists and really make a person want to try cause it’s all so doable. Thank you!!!
The hoop string was so clever! Great way to explain how a pattern work!
I personally explain the pants pattern making students try fit a paper on a Barbie doll or on a person.
This is blowing my mind!! Thanks for the clear illustrations and explanations!! Excited to watch all the videos and try the method! As someone who needs a "flat butt adjustment" I'm especially appreciating the body neutral aspect!
The body neutral aspect is my favorite part. It's made pants fitting actually *enjoyable* for the first time ever. No more labeling my body and assigning flaws. My body is what it is, and the pattern can map to it without comparison to some sort of ideal.
This is the most brilliant explanation and demonstration of how the waistband and seams of trousers interact with each other and your body. Absolutely fantasic!!
So happy I found your channel. Jennifer at J Stern Designs recommended you. Your explanation of this process was very helpful/informative. I truly excited about trying this method.
Welcome! I'm glad you find these videos helpful!
Thank you! This is really exciting. Your explanations are so clear. I can’t wait to watch the next videos and get started.
Thank you! Glad you like the videos!
So happy and grateful you are doing this series!
Thank you. This in incredibly enlightening. I just made my first half-toile. It was very close, so my mind started going down the old part-specific paths--I think I'll now wait for a few more of your videos! Also, I hope someday you and Ruth will get interested in sleeves.
You are a fantastic speaker and you must be a great teacher. I am really looking forward to this pant method and I must say you make things easy to understand. Now on to part 3.🥴
Thanks very much very well explained. Cheers Mary
Excellent video and visual explaining the importance of the waistband! Was excited to see you posted another video.
Oh, hai old friend and former classmate! Found this roundabout, and excited to learn from you! - lala
Oh hi friend! It's so nice to see you here, welcome! 😊
brilliant video - thank you!
Thank you so much! We can see the great teacher you are in this very very clear explanation of the TDCO method. You've open my eyes on some new concepts, because there so well explained + hints and reflexions. I'm looking forward for your other videos. You're like those scientific that can vulgarized notions in order for everybody to understand!!
I have watched a few videos and articles on this subject. The way you have presented and explained this concept brings understanding. I now look forward to trying this method.
you are doing a truly wonderful job here. I am in part 2 right now but plan to listen to the whole series. Rge visual was the best that I have seen out there.Please keep up the good work.
I'm so glad I found your channel, Stacey! I can really relate to your thought processes and you have a tremendous and unique way of explaining concepts that many folks struggle with. (I LOVE science!) So, thank you for taking the time to create these and for promoting sewing, and I am eager to view all your videos.
Thank you for very clear verbal and visual explanation of the physics of a pants pattern! Looking forward to seeing the rest of your videos in this series. I love the results you're getting with this method over on your Instagram page.
This is an amazing explanation! Thank you for taking so much time to explain this method. I’ve been wanting to try it.
This explanation is fabulous! Thank you!
Excellent explanation! I’m looking forward to this series.
You are brilliant- thank you!!!
16:17 I am having this problem now! Can’t wait to learn how to use this method.
Thank you! I can’t wait to see your next videos!!
You explained it so well! Thank you
I’m so excited to try this. I’ve basically stayed away from pants that are fitted because I couldn’t ever figure out how to adjust the sizing. My waist is two sizes smaller than my hip, but more like my butt than hip and I’ve never had luck. I’ll be trying this soon!
What a wonderful, generous thing to do. Thank you - what a gem. x
Glad you are enjoying the series!
Incredible explanation. Can totally understand where this is going to lead
Wow, great explanation and examples! So clear, easier to understand than the article. Thank you!
Your videos popped up on my feed and you explain so well! Thank you. I love the demo.
Excellent visual aid! Thanks for the information! I look forward to the next set of instructions.
Thank you so much for doing these videos! I’m really eager to start making better fitting pants for myself and have high hopes after watching this. Can’t wait for the next instalment. 😀
You are so awesome for posting this, I’m going to start my first pair of trousers soon. Going to finish your whole playlist first❤
looking forward to watching the rest of this series - you explain it really well! i'm balking at the design intent part because i ended up on this video because i sew vintage patterns and a pair of 60s cigarette pants which looked almost like skinny jeans on the packet and were described as 'slim fit' were anything but: i have over 5 inches of ease round my knee and thigh. no thank you! i think its defo acceptable and possible to respect the intent and still adjust. i'm still very new to sewing but from the start ive come to it from a viewpoint of this pattern is a starting block to help me make my own thing. also from day one ive never actually followed a pattern 100% either - everything so far has been hybrids of various patterns and ideas, so there's that lol
These are all excellent points. Sometimes there are patterns where we don't have much info on what the design intent is. Vintage patterns are good examples of this, where we may only have a description or a drawing, and it's not guaranteed to be accurate. Other times, we as makers want to take the pattern merely as a starting point and go from there to create our own vision. Top Down Center Out advocates for understanding the design intent (if/when possible) and then deciding whether to stick with that design, make it into something else, or move on. For me, I typically will spend a fair amount of time trying to stay close to the design intent before moving on or decided to hack a pattern, but that's just me and I certainly wouldn't expect everyone to adopt that approach -- esp if you love to combine patterns and remix different ideas together. I'm always so inspired by folks who do that! At the end of the day, each one of us is the boss of our own sewing and that's what makes it such a rewarding skillset!
@@thecrookedhem definitely! for me i find a lot of fitting tutorials quite tricky to follow because they often rely on things like bust points, hip points etc being marked on the pattern by the designer and... i dunno if you've ever used a genuine pattern from the 40s and 50s but things like bust points are in a different place to where they would be on modern patterns because of bullet rbas and you're sat there staring at a bit of tissue paper that's totally blank with holes punched in it for 'markings' going '....erm..' (side note cos i know there'll always be one person who reads the comments and panics - no i don't chop up original patterns i'm not a heathen i trace them out first!) so this method of fitting seems like it's much easier to wangle! and yeah i'm the same as you i'll make it up in tissue first and see what the original looks like before doing my own thing (for me it's from a historical fashion nerd perspective). I find it interesting she doesn't seem to advocate for a tissue fitting first because i find that a really useful step which irons out a majority of the big obvious width and length problems so it fits on a basic level with less fabric wastage and the toile stage fine tunes it to make it fitted and look pretty
I think what you say about respecting the designers original intent is brilliant, after all we do pick our patterns based on what they say the final outcome looks like, else we would all be drafting our own base templates and skipping buying patterns at all.
I am looking forward to watching the rest of this series to use this method to select patterns with the design elements that allow me to make minimal corrections (if I am understanding you correctly?).
That's all I've ever really wanted from patterns, I'm usually between pattern sizes, which means that some elements fit and some have to be adjusted.
Yes, you're right! If we respect the designer's original intent for the design, then a well-drafted pattern from an experienced designer should need minimal adjustments to fit all body shapes. I'm usually between sizes, as well, and TDCO has been a huge help for me to understand how and where to blend between sizes for each design. I hope you enjoy using the method once you try it!
Your visual with the hoop was mind blowing! I do have one concern however, and that has to do with respecting the designer intent. If, like you mentioned in a comment below, the pattern is a well-drafted one from an experienced designer, then this is definitely something we should keep in mind. But I think you should put a little more emphasis on the "well-drafted" part because in the wild west of indie patterns there's a whole bunch out there that are NOT well-drafted and inexperienced sewists don't always realize that just because someone is selling a clothing pattern it doesn't mean they actually know what they're doing.
This is a great point, and it brings up a lot of interesting issues within the sewing community. I certainly agree that choosing a well-drafted pattern is one of the most important steps one can take toward having a stress-free fitting process. And yes, there are a lot of questionable drafting practices out there, from tiny indie pattern companies to the Big 4.
But how to handle the issue is tricky. It's incredibly difficult to define "well-drafted" in technical terms, especially those that a beginner could understand and look for in a pattern. Is it ratio of crotch depth to length? Leg angle? Shape of the crotch curve? There are a lot of so-called drafting "rules" circulating in the sewing community for what constitutes a well-drafted pattern, but every single one of them can be broken in the hands of a skilled designer.
Top Down Center Out recommends that if one wants a "well-drafted" pattern, the maker should look for a designer who has many years of experience and who has successfully made commercial patterns that fit a wide range of body shapes and sizes. This advice will rule out many of the novice designers, but it still does not guarantee that the maker will end up choosing a well-drafted pattern. There's a lot of subjectivity involved, and designers don't always share their technical backgrounds.
The other issue here is pattern reviews, which the sewing community has been grappling with for years. Ideally, low quality patterns would be identified as such by the sewing community. But most reviews are highly subjective and usually biased. Honest reviews are hard to find and are unfortunately no less subjective from the rest.
So what is a beginner sewist to do? I'm not sure there is a perfect solution other than to look for experienced designers, choose patterns that are successful for many people, and pay attention to drafting details on the designs that work well for them. But I'd love to hear your thoughts if you have your own strategies that work well for identifying good drafting.
thank you so much for making this for us
Excellent 😍👍👏👏
This is excellent! Your visual explanations are genius! I have a question about waistband and design intent: if the pattern is designed to be low rise or ultra high rise, how do I know where to position the waistband when I fit it? I think this is crucial to the rest of the process
Yes, you are absolutely right!. The positioning of the waistband is crucial for a successful fitting experience. The short answer is that you will need to make a test waistband and fit it to your body to determine the ideal placement for your anatomy and your personal preferences. You may want to experiment and try a few different waistband locations/positions (e.g. slightly tilted forward or completely parallel to the floor) or try experimenting with the amount of ease in your waistband and the height of the waistband. Everyone will prefer something slightly different, so it's important to invest some time up front to really dial in your preferences for the waistband before moving forward. I have another video on fitting the waistband that may also help to add some color to this aspect of Top Down Center Out, but feel free to leave another comment if you still have questions!
Incredible explanation, and it is such an intuitive method. Is there something similar for bodices?
Not yet! 😉 But be sure to follow Ruth Collins (@ ithacamaven on Instagram) for the latest news and updates.
I've read so much about TDCO methode and saw so many tutorials. But just now, I get it! My English is not native and that made it more difficult. But you explained it so well! The demonstration made it even more clear to me. But I think that it only works on a straight waistband and not one with elastic (or half elastic) in it. Is that right? I can't wait until your next video and thank you and Ruth for this new adventure and way of looking at the patterns and my body. ;-)
I'm glad this is helpful! You can use the Top Down Center Out method with any kind of waistband -- straight, contoured, elastic, half-elastic, or even pants with no waistband and just a facing. I'm planning on dedicating one or two videos to waistbands in the future, so I'll go over the different choices you can make with each one.
@@thecrookedhem that would be very helpful
I would love to see the explanation on a half elasticated waistband.
@@thecrookedhem That's great!! Thanks!
I like unstructured trousers with elastic waistbands and am a newish returner to sewing. This means I've only made a few 'easy' garments for myself so far and I'd like to try something a bit more challenging to help me learn. I am just about to start making a pair of jeans-like trousers and I am puzzled reading the pattern sizing that my waist size (which hasn't changed that much recently) has suddenly dumped me 2 sizes up from what I normally wear while my hips are three sizes down. (Admittedly, 'proper' trousers always look like jodhpurs on me...) This made me think that these trousers might look a bit weird once I've adjusted them - so I'm hoping to use the TDCO method to make them not look weird. I like the idea that just a single legged toile is all you need though I'm struggling with the concept that it will work no matter how crazy your pattern style is. Stacey - you have a way of making me believe this will work. You have a great manner and I'm going to persevere and make some trousers that fit me without looking weird.
I'm glad these videos are helpful! A one-legged toile is usually sufficient for most trousers, although there are some exceptions where you would want to make a full two-legged toile (for example, when working with stretch fabrics or asymmetrical designs).
Loved this video. Such an interesting concept. I often make pants without a waistband so how would I go about the initial step of waistband fitting?
If your pants have a facing instead of a waistband, you would just fit the facing by itself as the first step. In that sense, the facing acts as the waistband when using Top Down Center Out. It will be similar to fitting a contoured waistband -- when you fit the facing, you will want to optimize where the facing sits on your torso (how high or low), how much curvature the facing has (to match your body curvature), and how much ease there is.
I really love your demonstration. Thank you!! Do you know how to get a copy of the tdco instruction? I have looked everywhere for a copy of Threads magazine (Summer) without any luck. Thank you for all your help in explaining this concept your visual is spot on. I look forward to the next video!
I bought one on eBay the other day. Paid $14-15 for it but I figured it would be worth it if this method truly is life changing. You might check on there.
Check your local library!
It's interesting you say that we work on one leg and use that as the basis for the whole garment. One side of the body is not the same as the other. For example my left buttock is very different from the right one causes me no end of fitting issues. I will be interested to learn how the differences are dealt with.
All bodies are asymmetric to some extent and often these asymmetries are small compared to the asymmetry temporarily created by body movement such as one leg in front of the other, standing with one hand on a hip etc. The design of the pant should accommodate such asymmetries, it is a collaboration between the body and design. The goal is to empower the maker so there are no rules, each body and pattern combination is unique and it will depend on the style being fitted and the fabric type such as non-stretch/stretch etc. A general suggestion is to fit the side of the body that is larger and tweak the other side in the fashion fabric but makers could also decide to leave the garment symmetric and blend the differences. With prosthetics or other attachments such as ostomy bags this could help makers decide between styles or adapt styles with different waistbands to accommodate these aspects. Everybody is different and unique, there are multiple possible solutions for every fitting issue and only the maker can decide what is optimum for their body.
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Does the method work for a pair of pants that has an elastic waistband?
It does! I have a video about how to fit a pattern with an elastic waist at the end of this series.
@@thecrookedhem wow thank you for such a prompt reply and thank you for such brilliant videos. Cannot wait to try the method. 😀
I need help with my top down center out. This is my second attempt fitting pants. I've come to the conclusion that my legs are more angled in relation to my hips than the average woman. I think i need a knock knee adjustment. This would change the grain line. From what I gather from the video, this would change design intent. I've already attempted to fit a one leg toile with this top down center out method. The results were laughable. I think the middle of my ankle, where the center grain line should be, is about 3 to 5 inches more inward than patterns assume. I didn't have enough extra fabric at the sides to finish fitting, so I'm taking a break. Here's my conundrum: If I change the grain line with a knock knee adjustment, then I change design intent. If I only change the inseam and not the grain line, I get a wide leg pant, changing the design intent. If I change the inseam and outseam, but not the grain line, the pant will probably not lay correctly. It's just too big of a difference in grain line angle. Thoughts? I don't see how it's possible to preserve design intent.
I’m planning to release more videos showing how to prepare the pattern pieces and then how to fit a toile using the Top Down Center Out method. I will demonstrate how to use the method to explore different solutions to one’s own specific fitting issues, and hopefully this will be helpful.
Ultimately, each project is a unique combination of the pattern and the body, so I’m unable to offer specific fitting advice. However, my goal in making these videos is to empower you with the tools to unravel these fitting conundrums.
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Have you seen this method used on a body where the buttocks are significantly lower than the crotch point (as in inches lower). (Keeping the general idea that the crotch point is about where the perineum is.)
I've seen this method work for folks of all shapes and sizes -- buttocks that are high or low, round or flat, and large or small. If you are on Instagram, you can follow the Top Down Center Out hashtag (#topdowncenterout) to see examples from lots of different people trying the method.
@@thecrookedhemThanks for getting back to me. I have been following the TDCO for awhile & read everything and have attempted... Have had chats with Ruth..... Gonna start pants later this week (the RC pattern), per her method. (Summer sewing was figuring out a boxy top pattern and then hacking)☺️
Please SHOW us in a human and pattern! this is just talk!
so much talking....when does the actual "making" begin?
Learning to make all styles of pants fit all bodies is a #slowfashion skill set. Like #slowfood, it takes patience and commitment to learn. There is a balance between making this skill set as accessible as possible and providing enough information so people can truly learn and understand. Only you can decide if it is a skill set you want to invest your time to acquire.