Someone might have said this already but, I would remove the problem valve stems and install the traditional rubber type. You could then add one of your aftermarket tire pressure sensors to that valve stem to monitor it. You would of coarse have to live with the light on your dash from the truck not seeing the factory sensor. Although if you could mount the sensor to the inside of the wheel and make it stay put... with either a high strength epoxy or double sided tape, it would still read the pressure in the tire.
@@austinlamberson5648 the oem tpms sensors will bolt on to the dill vs-950 rubber valve stems to save money. I've swapped em out on several f350 dually trucks and none have come back with leaking issues.
Having had five F350s with airbags I can tell you that they do nothing for the ride until you have a load in the bed. They allow you to level the truck and also help prevent side-to-side rocking. I use my F350 with a Bigfoot truck camper and the airbags do allow me to level the truck with the camper in the bed. One real advantage is when parked with the camper. I can make adjustments in bed level, both side-to-side, and front to back.
Buckhorn Me too. F350/Bigfoot2500 and the airbags make all the difference! Edit: We're not supposed to run them at zero when unloaded but even at 5 psi the seams of concrete highways shake the crap out of me. But I'm usually rolling heavy with 80 psi, and they're perfect.
Chad on your truck valve stems. I work at a tire shop and I have this problem come in all the time with the Fords. When you go to your next tire shop have them put in a high pressure rubber stem in the wheels and it seems to fix the leaking issue. That way you can avoid buying new wheels. And with it being rubber you are able to check the air much easier for the inner tires. You can even order them on Amazon and take them in. They should be able to put them on for you no problem. VS-20 OEM Stem for TPMS
Thank you for that!!! I didn't know there was such a thing - next time I go in I'll have the dealer change out the stock ones and put the others back in...
Great video I appreciate the fact that you're articulate and to the point. Not a lot of whining and fluff keep up the good work. You have got a great on screen personality.
Been watching your videos for a long time. I appreciate your approach on your training style and content. You give concise feedback and resolutions. Two examples: 1. When you said that your not sure if it works or not but your brain is telling you yes because you spent your money. That is an honest and non biased review. 2. Blooper at end when you were bashing yourself on not to go on a tangent. Great Job Always!!
I updated a few months ago from a 2016 to a 2020 F-350 dually with the 3.55:1 rear end. I feel like the new 10 speed transmission makes a world of difference. It takes off quicker from a stop when pulling the Momentum (same model as Changing Lanes) and gets better fuel mileage. Ford made some changes in the 6.7 also and I think the rear end ratio works fine. And those rear hubcaps are still a pain!
The shackles can only go on the rear, because they would collapse with the axle/wheels pushing the leaf forward. On the rear, they only have to work up and down, as the front of the leaf positions the axle front to rear. Please tell us you went to the drive in!
That's really cool about how you factor in the cost when you rationalize the airbags. So many reviewers seem to be all in regardless of their price tag. Many of us weekend warriors have to pick and choose our bells and whistles more closely than full timers, it's good to have a practical review.
Choosing is a real issue for those of us who have managed to retire and want to travel some. I now own a 2022 F350 crew cab with dually's and am learning about them. I enjoy driving the new truck, but it does have its issues.
I got Timbren bump stops to replace the ridiculous excuse for bump stops that Ford provided, instead of going with air bags. They perform perfectly for significantly less $$ than airbags (which I’ve had before on another truck). I don’t haul a 5th wheel but I am hauling a camper in the bed of my truck. F350 single rear wheel.
Good video, Chad. I ordered the Dicor valve extenders for my 2019 F-350 DRW, and took it to Discount Tire in West Melbourne, FL for them to install. They originally told me it wouldn't work, so I had them watch this video! After seeing this video, they understood how to install everything. I also have corrosion around the valve stems but so far no leaks.
2017 F350 here too...replaced all aluminum rims two years ago, replaced the rear dual rims last summer again...there is a FORD TSB in regards to the leaking valve stems. I have noticed that all my rims are once again corroding. Great tip on the cap puller and valve extension...FYI...one rear dually rim is over $1000.00. Looking forward to your replacement rim choice video.
Buy the rubber Ford replacement stems and be done with it (F2GZ-1700-D). I had all 4 aluminum wheels leaking, swapped all 4 stems for $160 ($120 labor and $40 parts). Haven't lost a single psi in any of them since.
Being aware of the issue Ford should make that a recall issue and install them for free at Zero cost to the customer, no parts or labor costs. I bet in the end it would be cheaper than the Millions they're going to loose to that Class Action Lawsuit after all the lawyer fees and then being ordered to cut checks to the end users...
I had a set of 19-eagles 058 wheels put on my truck in Dec 2010 (date of install) and I have had absolutely no problems with them, I installed them on my 1981 GMC 3500 Dually. they still look good today (with no corrosion) and I also have steel valve stem adapters. hope this helps. I also wanted Alcoa wheels but They weren't available on line or at the store at the time I got these. 16" wheels. the factory wheels I removed were 15.5" and at the time I heard that size was getting phased out so to try to keep the same ride height I chose 16". I tow our 40' 5th wheel with this truck. yes it is modified (eng, trans and added gear vendor). good luck, another great video. best of health to all of you and safe travels.
2019 F350 here, It was definitely fill the tires check the diesel, instead of the other way around. This is the only thing I have hated about this truck. Knock on wood, new stems all around now and holding well for about 3 months so far. Great upgrade video, and I appreciate how you seem to know when the ads are going to pop up too. thanks!
2019 F350's also have the valve stem issue...out of six rims, I have replaced the steel valve stem to rubber on four rims as I got sick of slow leaks!!! Also, the Adaptive Steering Fault is a major pain!!
@@drgibson410 The adaptive steering module is standard on 2019's; the adaptive steering provides assistance to reduce the number of steering wheel revolutions in relation to the turning radius of the truck...pretty good standard equipment. The warning is an "adaptive steering fault" and is part of the lane departure and can cause the steering wheel to lock (per Ford) if not addressed once the fault warning begins. If you have not experienced the fault, you are good to go, but be aware it will need a new module once it falls and will include an entire new steering assembly w/ steering wheel. I just got my truck back today after 86 days in the shop waiting on firmware upgrade for the new adaptive steering module. I believe the adaptive steering is now an option on 2021 thru 2023 models and standard on 2017, 2018, & 2019...not sure if standard or an option on 2020 Super Duty Models.
I bought a brand new 2017 F350 just like yours. I had the same problem with the slow leak in the tires. I took it to the dealer multiple times, but kept having the issue. Then one time I took it to a Les Schwab location and told them it had a slow leak. They pulled the tire and said it was the valve stem and that it was causing corrosion...as you described ... so they replaced the metal valve stem with a rubber valve stem. My truck has the standard TPMS, so I was worried if it would still work, but they said that the TPMS housing is inside the wheel and that the metal valve stem goes through it. I didn't check out the specifics, but our only comment is that it worked. Our problem with the slow leak was fixed, and the TPMS still works just fine. We wanted to share this because once we replaced all of the standard valve stems with rubber ones, we haven't had any more problems. You may want to look into this since 6 rubber valve stems are a heck of a lot cheaper than new wheels! ~ Bob (Michelle's husband)
I had six steel rims on my dually and added "Pacific Dually " stainless steel wheel covers. Looked great and allowed for proper wheel rotation using all six wheels. Love the centramatics. Tons of big rigs using them to really extend tire life. Also,note sure if you have added a FASS or AirDog fuel system to your truck but it might help keep that problematic CP4 pump alive. Great video!
Great video as always... just making sure you know that all your uplifter switches are wired directly into a box under the hood. Makes adding accessories really (really) easy. We hot-wired our dash cam and 2 extra USBs that I installed directly into the headliner.
I knew you did this video and came to find it when it was time for valve extenders for my F350. I will be using the Phoenix USA kit. Thanks for all you do for us RVers!!!
Love the Centramatic Wheel balancers. Best thing I ever installed on my 2016 RAM 3500. I noticed a big difference, and would suggest these should be stock right from the factory. Not affiliated with the company, just a satisfied customer.
Referred back to this, and glad I did. Went to look for the stems on my F450 DRW, and they are pointing inwards on top of each other. Promptly placed an order for the linked extensions, and will receive them next week. Then I can program and install the TPMS.
Chad, Driving around without the 5th Wheel, you don't need to have the rear tires at 65 psi. If you are without trailer for a day or more, drop the rear duals tire pressure to 35 - 40 psi. It will help with the unloaded ride, and you still have way more tire capacity than what the trucks rear axle weight is. When you get ready to tow again, air the tires back up to towing pressure.
I put those exact valve extenders on our Class A motor home when we first bought it (used). Worked fantastic! Sold her in August of 21'. Our F350 dully crew cab is on order and next spring it's 5th wheel time for our retirement.
Yup I found that out the hard way after wiring my Air Lift compressor al the way up the Driver's side frame, then digging around for 15 minutes in the engine well on the driver's side (there's a fuse looking box with extra wires hanging there too). I found the "Rat's Nest" of wires all taped up on the passenger side. |:-(
Thanks for sharing this video. We just bought a F350 and it good to know that other than the wheels you are happy with the truck over all. Love those bed steps! Thanks again
Great video, thanks for sharing our mods. I agree with you on the wheels. I've got a 2017 F350 DRW and I've got the exact same problem. Went to Ford dealership to see about getting them fixed and like you they said sorry not under warranty. Love, love, love the fix you showed for filling the tires = I've got to keep filling due to the slow leak. I was concerned about the stems causing your tires balance to be off and then you showed the bead ring, excellent solution. Guess I've got a couple of mods to do on my truck now, thanks to you :-)
Great info on that one, Chad. I’d heard of the 2 metal oxidation problem with the wheels but didn’t realize it was so big. Hope it works out for you and countless other Ford owners. Seems like a small problem that’s gotten out of control. I always enjoy you taking us along on projects and showing solutions to problems you encounter. Really appreciate your input and experience. Glad to see Tara a little in there. You know we do need our weekly “blondie” time 😜. And I think we can give you a pass on missing “The Goonies.” You were busy defending our nation around the time it came out! 🇺🇸. Thanks for another info filled episode. And great clip inserts as usual, Tara. Troy
The key to buying new wheels is dont buy because they look good. As a F350 owner I put a really good looking set on mine, however on the first tow of the rv I learned that wheels, like trucks, and RV have a weight rating. So as you did the number crunch for your truck and fifth wheel in the other video, do the number crunch on the weight rating on the wheels. My mistake cost me over 3k.
Great video Chad. Not sure if this was mentioned in the 784 comments but I have found that Ford DOES respond when you call them out on Twitter. No need to be nasty - just hold them accountable. I'm not a big Twitter guy but I've had great success in having issues resolved by both Ford and Jayco for items that were out of warranty and clearly manufacturing/design defects. Good luck!
Chad, I have the same truck and same problem with wheel slow leaks. Been happening since the day I bought it. Had it to 7 different dealers and they are useless. Local tire shop said they can take em off clean em and seal em for $20 bucks. They do it all the time with this model. Maybe try a third party tire shop that works on work trucks. Not a ford dealer. Thanks for the tips, I’m totally getting those valve extenders to reach the inside tires! And we got our puppy throne based on y’all’s recommendation. Safe travels shipmate
in 43 years of owning my own vehicles and being an Truck tech. I have never seen an aluminum wheel bend with normal wear and tear, I have seen numerous steel wheel bend. that was the only reason I had to replace the wheel on my 1981 dually, ALL of the wheels were bent to the point of not getting a good balance on them anymore. plus steel wheels are more apt to rust and are heavier in most cases in comparison. best of health.
UPDATE- took the rig in to locally owned independent tire shop. They took the tire off the rim, cleaned up the inside resealed and reinstalled the Tom’s and valve stem and put it all back together. Charged me $10 bucks ! Works like a charm so far
Hello Chad- Great video! I have a 2013 F350 DRW 6.7 Diesel and love it (never a problem and it tows like a dream) without a TPMS and have had this problem with the corroding rims for the last 8 years. Ford has been hush hush about this from the beginning. Fortunately, they haven't leaked but it's mindboggling how Ford has refused to do anything about this issue as they have known about it for quite some time. That class action lawsuit should be expanded to include more production years. Also, thank you for the information on the rear hubcap puller. Like you, i have never found a tool in my truck provided by Ford to pull them off. Guess I'll talk to my service writer at Ford about that. When it comes to those rims everything seems to be topsecret at Ford. Glad to see you found something to make adding air to the rear tires easier. I'm definetly going to give them a try. Keep up the great videos!
Received my 2022 F450 in mid-July of 2022 (7 month wait from the time I ordered btw). Had no idea about the wheel/valve stem issue! Thanks for that info! Keep it up!
I've been watching a number of videos about the Ford trucks. It seems Ford has issues which it is unwilling to address. I'm starting to think I should change directions from an F350 to a Dodge, I'm sorry, RAM 3500. I need a truck which can carry a much heavier load than my Dodge 2500, so I thought of Ford. Now I can't get the new engine (7.3 L gas) but every dealer seems to have a lot of 6.7 diesel powered trucks.
I have 2021 F350 with HD/Snowplow front end. No issues with 4k miles. Gonna put Bilsteins shocks on because I like improved steering response. Also, the 2021 has a new electronic assist contraption on the steering box. The 1997 I had the same issues and the bilsteins/HD upgrade fixed it.
@@petermchenry8185 Which engine do you have in your truck? In some ways I like the Ford, but the last one I owned was in 1983, which I sold when I transferred to Europe to work. I've had a GMC, a Chevy, and currently a Dodge. All were 3/4 ton trucks. Each time, I've learned something new to be aware of so the "next" time I won't make the same mistake.
I’m a Ford man traditionally but I am currently driving a 2019 RAM. Gotta get what’s right for you. Those rims would piss me off too. Keep up the great videos.
Vision 181 hauler duallie chrome wheel or Ion Alloy 167 dually polished They are a match with factory height of your truck pretty sure you would find these to match your actual tire
I had a similar "beauty cap" on the rear wheels of our motor home. They actually mounted from the inside, so you had to remove the outer wheel to take them off. I removed them and tossed them in the garbage. I liked the look of seeing the full float axle better.
Chad, Good video. I see 800 comments already, so I don't know if this is redundant, but... I've lived on our sailboat for the last 7 years, sailing the Pacific Ocean. Galvanic corrosion is always an issue on boats especially in a salt water environment. There are two ways to prevent galvanic corrosion: 1. Use a less "noble" metal like zinc as a sacrificial anode. and 2. Insulate the two metals from one another. I don't think putting zincs on wheels is practical but electrically isolating the stainless TPMS module from the wheel is. Sailboats like ours have aluminum masts with cleats, winches, blocks, etc. bolted to them with stainless steel screws. Those screws must be isolated from the aluminum of the mast or the mast will corrode. The best product I've seen for providing electrical isolation where two dissimilar metals must be in close contact is Tefgel. Tefgel is a teflon paste that establishes enough insulation between the metals to stop galvanic current from flowing and thus stop the corrosion. I've never had a corrosion problem where I've joined metals coated with Tefgel. I have no relationship with the people who make or sell Tefgel. It only recommend it because it works.
Thank you, Chad, for covering valve stems. We've got the F-350 DRW for our Momentum, too, and every time we move and I go to check the tires....what a hassle. The hilarious thing is that I've stopped by Ford dealerships, and I mean those out in the country where DRW's are everywhere, and they don't have and don't install valve stems as recommended by Ford. All I can ever think is: How many people are simply not checking / filling their tires out here in the country?! You've now tested and basically recommended a product I can get installed. Your videos are always great, and great editing by Tara, as well.
RUclipsr Big Truck Big RV has the SAME issue with his F450 wheels and has already had a video on them on his channel AND I would not be surprised if he is not part of the class action suit, great video from you, thx...G
I have a 2015 F450 Platinum trim with similar aluminum wheels that I have had to have 1 outer rear valve stem replaced due to air leakage. Any Ford SuperDuty truck with the Alcoa knockoffs need to be included in the Class Action lawsuit.
I used crossfire dual equalizers on the truck I drove they worked well for the most part over time they rubbed on the rim and scuffed them. I put clear tubing around the hose and stop that.
@@jamesglenn520 No it has a safety feature in it where if one is going flat will not let the other one go flat; but it show you that it is low on air. Both cat’s eye and cross fires do the same thing just display different.
we had a 2017 ford f350 DRW also and the same leak on the same rims, ended up replacing them with steel rims. since then sold the truck due to other ford problem and bought a sport chassis instead. Chad I would look into your fuel pump on that truck its a CP4.
How timely and informative. I'm ordering the Bedsteps today. I agree with your analysis of the airbags. I put the exact same system on a previous F350 SRW a year or two earlier and there was no noticeable ride improvement. They did allow me to keep the bed level but that was about it. Not worth it in my opinion for the cost. But looks cool having the bed raise up and down on demand. I have the same model truck and i have the same problem with the slow leaks. On two wheels. I took it in to the dealer when it was well in warranty. they always said everything was fine. I had one valve stem replaced with an aftermarket one once when i was out traveling. It didn't help. as a side note I had purchased the extended warranty. When I got back from a long extended trip i took it back to the dealer for a routine oil change and told them my tires were still slowly leaking air. During that visit the dealer service writer unfortunately for him actually put down in the text message to me that both those valve stems were leaking and they needed to be replaced. But I was FOUR days out of the original factory warranty And it would cost over 250 dollars. Needless to say it got nasty. I wrote a passionate tactful letter to the dealership saying i had brought it in multiple times for leaks, they always said they couldn't find anything wrong, now the factory warranty has expired and all of a sudden it's diagnosed as the valve stems and my platinum extended warranty doesn't cover that. After some give and take they finally agreed to replace them. But amazingly enough they gave me no documentation. I should have demanded it. Three months later one seems to be doing pretty well, the other one still leaks but not as bad.
Good going. I just bought valve extensions for the outside tire. I had the 90 degree extension and the tire leaked to 25 psi while sitting. Going to the Winnebago factory mid April. I’m hoping they will help me get them on. The coach came with the inner extender on and I really like how it works with the TPMS. Once again, kiddos to you for your knowledge and outstanding abilities. Tara is a very lucky lady 👩🏼 and you are lucky to have her.
I had a 64 Comet for my first car. 3 speed on the column. A neighbor had the 63 Sprint 289 engine with 4 speed in the floor. Baby blue with Cragar mags. What a beautiful car and so was my 64 Comet. I loved that car. It was a two door .
Lol I was speaking to my husband about yall and i about had a heart attack thinking you guys were in front of us we was on our way to Cherokee but no toy hauler and i didn't figure it out until we was passing
Chad, Love you guys! Yep, this is a Ford problem for a while, and options are limited if you want the same style. You can get 4 steel wheels (which are your current inside wheels) and they look nice when powder coated in a metallic sheen. There are lots of guys that bro their trucks up, and a set of takeoffs, if caught early, will work, as long as you install Ford P/N F2GZ1700D in place of the stock FR3Z1700C. The F2GZ mate with the factory TPMS sender in the tire, and eliminate the different metal corrosion entirely. The F2GZ's are on backorder: my tire guru is still waiting for mine, 5 weeks and counting. Be safe, THANK YOU for your service to our country, keep the vlogs coming!
ALCOA Nothing wrong with them and take the metal valve stems off replace with rubber stems and you prob will stop . retired truck driver with over 3million miles ive had my fare share of tires wheels and stems anyway give it a try might just surprise you.
UPDATE 2.0- I just spoke with Pete from Haltec, and have something others may be interested in. At the Haltec site, search for parts: HE-204 (Bent Extension for Standard Bore Valve ) and HE-343, 344, or 345 (Air-Flexx Valve Extensions ). The HE-204 will permit the valve extension from the outer rim to pass back through the smaller hole in the aluminum rim, and the HE-343... can be used to route the valve extension from the inner rim out as well. I found it interesting that the HE-300 series of extensions specify "* No need for clamp, holder, or stabilizer". So unlike the other valve extension systems, this one appears to not need the support brackets that bolt on under the lug nuts. So, there's what I've found out as possible solutions to Dicor not making the original valve extension sets.
UPDATE: I called Haltec, and am waiting a return call from their engineer. I spoke again with Jim at Phoenix to get some more clarification on why their systems won't work on aluminum rims. The holes in the aluminum rims on the Ford are only about 1 1/2" in dia. The holes on the steel rims are about 4-5" long and 3-3 1/2" wide. With the outer valve stem pointing inward, the valve extension hose, for its valve, has a "kink" in it to permit the hose to pass back through the rim hole. Since the hole is so small, Jim did not think the "kink" would be sufficient to permit the hose to pass back through the rim to the outside. As I examined my situation, I wondered if it was actually necessary that the valve stem be positioned to point inward? Could it be rotated in the valve stem hole in the rim, say 90 degrees, so that it could be easily accessed from the outside of the wheel? Well, I called my handy dandy tire shop to inquire. They informed me swiveling the valve stem around in the hole in the rim would be NO problem! So, I believe that is what I'm going to do, and then just purchase the necessary hose to extend the inner valve stem, through the hole in the outer rim for easy access!
Another great video, you’re the first I’ve heard that didn’t see a benefit from air bags. I tow with a F250 and the bags level out the truck beautifully and prevent the suspension from compressing over bumps. Smooths out the ride nicely. Huge difference for me.
3:73 will do just fine with the 6 speed automatic. The gear set are about $300 each plus seals etc and labor. $2,000 total is a good estimation to change gears.
@@Garth2011 I agree that a 3:73 gear set would be better than the current 3:55. Fuel mileage might be off some, but overall it would be a better upgrade.
Chad I have had valve stem problems on my 2018 f350 since the truck was 6 months old and can’t count the number of repairs. I went to a new tire shop in Thunder Bay Ontario and they cleaned up the corrosion and installed high pressure rubber valve stems and my tpms sensors fastened to the new stem just like on the factory ones. Best $30 I ever spent and no more leaks.
How bout the ride quality of 19.5s? Also consider the weight of 19.5s. They’re great on the proper application and yes they have a higher weight capacity and stability but with that come a much stiffer sidewall= harsher ride. Their physical weight degrades acceleration and braking performance as well as reducing cargo weight capacity. With a rig as large as they’re pulling it might put them over GVWR. On one of my service trucks, a 2017 F-550 I upgraded tires (OE Continental 19.5s are junk and will throw tread blocks within 30K miles) to a wider and slightly taller load range H Michelin’s. GVWR of that truck was 19,500Lbs and had 4.88:1 gear ratio. I never ran it across the scales but I bet I was tapped out or a little over because it was squatting. I was shocked by the drastic difference in acceleration and braking. Yes I’ve owned lifted, modified trucks with much larger oversized tires, changed axles, set up new gear ratios, driven a lot of OE and modified vehicles, I know the physics and I was still shocked because the slight increase in diameter and definitely more weight from the higher load rating had the same net results as I’ve seen from replacing OE tires to 37” tires.
Centramatic wheel balancers are SOLID. I have them on my 2014 F-250 and it makes a big difference. I notice it more when I am not towing than when I am towing. Under load, my truck rides like a dream. Empty I can feel every bump and the centramatics helped to reduce the vibration from rocks stuck in the tire and other balancing issues
Another great informative video. I really like the joy of driving with as little maintenance as possible. So I am incorporating A LOT of your upgrades for the truck and trailer in to my first RV to prevent later headaches. Thanks for the great info.
Hello Chad you will definitely feel the difference if you have a 3000lb camper in the bed. I've replaced the stock bump stop with airbag and the ride quality is 100% smoother. If you don't have a load in the bed you can really tell the difference maybe a little. Good video Chad.
Drew Valk Great info and we added a Train Horn under the truck bed next to the drive shaft on the right side and we need it on occasion pulling our Momentum 381M. It gets their attention and they see how big we are and usually get out of the way quicker. Therefore we were only able to install the portable side step on the left side behind the driver side considering the Train Horn and compressor is under the chassis on the right side where the right side extra step would be located. Thanks and ordering some of the upgrades you mentioned right away.
A word of warning is the stainless steel braided line on outside will rub on the aluminum rim ! I used to use a product called crossfire dual pressure equalizers on the semi truck I drove they equalized the pressure in the dual wheels air up from one stem also you could see if the pressure in the tires was ok just by walking by ; over time the hose moves and scuffs the rim. You can put a piece of clean tube around it to prevent it.
Great upgrades! I have the same truck. The only way to get the rear suspension better, other than going Kelderman, is by replacing the leaf pack with Deaver leaf packs. The airbags will do the heavy lifting while towing and the ride is super smooth when no trailer is hooked up. I replaced my wheels at about 30k miles but I also had the air leak issue. I replaced the sidesteps with the Ford factory extended steps. Found them on Craigslist for $200. The only thing I have an issue with now is the turning radius but that’s not enough for me to let her go just yet! Keep it up guys, really enjoy your vids!
I have had to buy 2 new rims for the front of my 2015 F350 (which uses the same aluminum wheels as your 2017) due to hairline cracks at the valve stem hole in the rims! I thought that it was due to crappy roads on I-80 in Indiana and Illinois but it was in part due to the place I bought my tires from replacing the valve stems with the WRONG valve stem! The crappy pot hole filled roads was only part of the problem! OH and cracks in aluminum rims like that...CANT BE FIXED! So now I have $1000 in fancy aluminum rims as garden hose hangers!! Keep up the great content!
Very Nice Video, Thanks again for the invite. Can I make a couple of suggestions? Ok, I will. You know what dielectric compound is don't you? That is a compound kind of like a lube, a grease, an insulator for dis-similar metals, inexpensive and it works. Next, on your air lines on the duals, not a good idea to have the extensions laying against the wheels, pick up some fuel line that is close to the outside diameter of the extension...cut one side lengthwise straight...install over the extension prior to where it contacts thru the hole in the wheel (so it would be approx. 1.5" max. inside B tween the wheels), the run the hose as needed for length, then use cable ties to the hose to hold it in place, as needed. Do likewise to all the extensions as needed. As far as the alignment issue with the hoses while tightening, pick up 4 hardened washers the size of your lug studs, when you place you hose bracket on the wheel, put a hardened flat washer on top then the nut, should make that job lots easier. Another inexpensive fix. There is No big rush to do any of what I suggested, but when you feel the need to man up and do it...it works for me...lol.
A thought on the corrosion, heavy trucks have run aluminum wheels with stainless valve stems forever. The valve stems attach with a threaded bolt on the inside of rim with rubber inner and outer seals so steel never touches the rim. Plus they come in lengths upwards of 5 inches so may solve your reach problem....Just a thought.
Never had a problem on my 06 F350 DRW with corrosion. My 14 F350 DRW had to sets. When I ordered my 2021 F350 I decided to go SRW cause the DRW were the same as my old and I knew I was going to dealing with corrosion again soon.
BIG HINT: Use "NYLOG BLUE" its used for sealing the 400 lb copper flanges on a mini split ac unit. I use it on the vale stems. It seals and never gets hard. Best thing for keeping your air extenders from leaking.
Hi Chad, Ok lets start with a huge thank you on all the info for the Dicor air system and the hub remover tool (even Ford cant get them off)... so I had a 2017 Lariat 350 DRW same as you and I did get Ford to replace all 4 wheels due to the corrosion problem..... Then I traded up to a F450 DRW Limited and its worth every penny except for the problem with the corrosion wheels is still evident (just starting). So I will start again with my dealer on replacement, but Id like a remedy. Also the 450 does not have the dash tpms for the truck tires but does have it for the trailer. Now for the ride, I did not put bags on this one and it defiantly rides softer then the 350 with bags (but I didn't remove my bump stops). I think its the Conti tires are softer then the Michelin. And yes the turning radius is super great. I also like the motorized running boards because they deploy to a lower position, and its easier to get my fat ass into the truck and not as far to jump down. However your sweet bed step wont work here with the 450 deploy-able running boards, maybe Ford should just extend the running boards.The wires on the up-fitter switches are a fuzz longer... Also the 3:55 rear end on the 350 was just fine for me with the 15K trailer, now its the 4:33 (or something close) and I honestly cant tell the difference until I look at fuel millage....lol... Paul from the N/E corner of Illinois.
That corrosion is called "filiform" corrosion. Yes, it is where aluminum and steel meet. Airstream owners know all about it. My Tundra has aluminum rims and steel valve stems with no corrosion, and they used Dill 902-W valve stems. They are steel stems with a rubber washer through the rim. So the two metals never touch. I used those stems on the Sendel rims that came with Airstream. You can clean (sand/polish) the corrosion, but it will return anywhere the coating on the metal is missing (like in the hole for a stem.)
Hi Chad, I have the same truck as you, pretty much, same color, same year. I saw the steel valve stems in the aluminum wheels and because of my work (long story) recognized it would be a problem. 10,000 miles in, corrosion and leakage. A very good truck service manager in New Hampshire took pictures and sent them to Ford. They sent out a brand new set of wheels and he replaced the corroded ones and used 2016 super duty rubber stems and tpms units all under warranty at the time. Never had another problem with leaks. Cost 0.00 to me. I told everyone I ran into that had Ford alumaduty duallys to look into it on that basis. The message is, they can fix it, if the dealer is pro active. At this point for you, maybe machine the valve seats and install the rubber 2016 units. I hope that helps in some way. Warren.
Chad, I had several F350's and then f550 and finally an F450. First off all the great things you commented about in the F450 are from the F550. Bigger brakes, stronger rear frame rails, wide frt axle with super tight steering, locker in the rear end. That being said you might want to consider something that we upgraded to. An HDT or class 8 semi registered as an RV. This permits you in most states to drive the Semi with a standard license you would use to drive a class A coach or motorhome. In Mn this covers class A coaches up to 26k. We purchased a 2004 Volvo 630 with a hauler deck on the back and an air ride hitch (ET Hitch) and one of the rear axles removed. We are towing 19-23k worth of toy hauler and the truck doesn't even know it's back there. 440hp/1650ft trq. The brakes are designed to deal with 80k of total load so it stops when and where you need it to. mileage is close to what you are mostl likely getting now. You also won't wear it out like you are doing with that 65-85,000 dollar F350.
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Great video my friends! FYI for your viewers, this channel actually brought the corrosion issue of the wheels up to me. So thanks to them for that!
its been a recurring theme on ford forums that you visit sometimes. Ford changed my rims 6 times lol !
Someone might have said this already but, I would remove the problem valve stems and install the traditional rubber type. You could then add one of your aftermarket tire pressure sensors to that valve stem to monitor it. You would of coarse have to live with the light on your dash from the truck not seeing the factory sensor. Although if you could mount the sensor to the inside of the wheel and make it stay put... with either a high strength epoxy or double sided tape, it would still read the pressure in the tire.
Use Gorilla Glue or super glue, maybe that will hold the sensors in place.
@@tortue71 I work in a tire shop you can get tpms sensors that have a rubber valve stem that can replace the oem ones and still talk to the truck
@@austinlamberson5648 the oem tpms sensors will bolt on to the dill vs-950 rubber valve stems to save money. I've swapped em out on several f350 dually trucks and none have come back with leaking issues.
I love this video. Most of the channels talk strictly about the RV upgrades but forget about the tow rig. Love to see it.
Chad, your homework assignment is to watch Goonies and report back in next weeks video. Goonies was one of the best, now classic movies of 1985.
Great movie with interesting characters. Well worth watching and great to have a copy for your kids
Having had five F350s with airbags I can tell you that they do nothing for the ride until you have a load in the bed. They allow you to level the truck and also help prevent side-to-side rocking. I use my F350 with a Bigfoot truck camper and the airbags do allow me to level the truck with the camper in the bed. One real advantage is when parked with the camper. I can make adjustments in bed level, both side-to-side, and front to back.
I 100% agree!!!
Buckhorn Me too. F350/Bigfoot2500 and the airbags make all the difference! Edit: We're not supposed to run them at zero when unloaded but even at 5 psi the seams of concrete highways shake the crap out of me. But I'm usually rolling heavy with 80 psi, and they're perfect.
Chad on your truck valve stems. I work at a tire shop and I have this problem come in all the time with the Fords. When you go to your next tire shop have them put in a high pressure rubber stem in the wheels and it seems to fix the leaking issue. That way you can avoid buying new wheels. And with it being rubber you are able to check the air much easier for the inner tires.
You can even order them on Amazon and take them in. They should be able to put them on for you no problem.
VS-20 OEM Stem for TPMS
Thank you for that!!! I didn't know there was such a thing - next time I go in I'll have the dealer change out the stock ones and put the others back in...
I too replaced the steel stems with rubber ones and the problem went away. Left the inner duals with steel as those wheels are steel.
@@mikestanbro6619 Yep - I'm leaving the steel wheels as-is..
Devin, does the stock TPMS still work with them? Seems too easy of a fix, thanks.
Mine is a F450 2013, yeah I know not new. But it is paid off!
Having worked in the commercial tire industry for 36 year’s I find this amusing. Welcome to a tire tech’s world.
Great video I appreciate the fact that you're articulate and to the point. Not a lot of whining and fluff keep up the good work. You have got a great on screen personality.
I agree
Been watching your videos for a long time. I appreciate your approach on your training style and content. You give concise feedback and resolutions. Two examples: 1. When you said that your not sure if it works or not but your brain is telling you yes because you spent your money. That is an honest and non biased review. 2. Blooper at end when you were bashing yourself on not to go on a tangent. Great Job Always!!
I updated a few months ago from a 2016 to a 2020 F-350 dually with the 3.55:1 rear end. I feel like the new 10 speed transmission makes a world of difference.
It takes off quicker from a stop when pulling the Momentum (same model as Changing Lanes) and gets better fuel mileage. Ford made some changes in the 6.7 also and I think the rear end ratio works fine. And those rear hubcaps are still a pain!
The shackles can only go on the rear, because they would collapse with the axle/wheels pushing the leaf forward. On the rear, they only have to work up and down, as the front of the leaf positions the axle front to rear.
Please tell us you went to the drive in!
How many straight axle 4x4 vehicles have you seen with shackles at the front of the springs?
Yes we’re in suspense to hear about the drive-in!
@@preachers4135
On the rear...
Jeeps had front axles with a Shackle at the front, but that don't count.
That didn't even count back then 🤪
That's really cool about how you factor in the cost when you rationalize the airbags. So many reviewers seem to be all in regardless of their price tag. Many of us weekend warriors have to pick and choose our bells and whistles more closely than full timers, it's good to have a practical review.
Choosing is a real issue for those of us who have managed to retire and want to travel some. I now own a 2022 F350 crew cab with dually's and am learning about them. I enjoy driving the new truck, but it does have its issues.
I got Timbren bump stops to replace the ridiculous excuse for bump stops that Ford provided, instead of going with air bags. They perform perfectly for significantly less $$ than airbags (which I’ve had before on another truck). I don’t haul a 5th wheel but I am hauling a camper in the bed of my truck. F350 single rear wheel.
Good video, Chad. I ordered the Dicor valve extenders for my 2019 F-350 DRW, and took it to Discount Tire in West Melbourne, FL for them to install. They originally told me it wouldn't work, so I had them watch this video! After seeing this video, they understood how to install everything. I also have corrosion around the valve stems but so far no leaks.
Thanks Chad. I almost had my hubby talked out of splurging on the 450. 🤣🤣
2017 F350 here too...replaced all aluminum rims two years ago, replaced the rear dual rims last summer again...there is a FORD TSB in regards to the leaking valve stems. I have noticed that all my rims are once again corroding. Great tip on the cap puller and valve extension...FYI...one rear dually rim is over $1000.00. Looking forward to your replacement rim choice video.
Buy the rubber Ford replacement stems and be done with it (F2GZ-1700-D). I had all 4 aluminum wheels leaking, swapped all 4 stems for $160 ($120 labor and $40 parts). Haven't lost a single psi in any of them since.
Being aware of the issue Ford should make that a recall issue and install them for free at Zero cost to the customer, no parts or labor costs.
I bet in the end it would be cheaper than the Millions they're going to loose to that Class Action Lawsuit after all the lawyer fees and then being ordered to cut checks to the end users...
I had a set of 19-eagles 058 wheels put on my truck in Dec 2010 (date of install) and I have had absolutely no problems with them, I installed them on my 1981 GMC 3500 Dually. they still look good today (with no corrosion) and I also have steel valve stem adapters. hope this helps. I also wanted Alcoa wheels but They weren't available on line or at the store at the time I got these. 16" wheels. the factory wheels I removed were 15.5" and at the time I heard that size was getting phased out so to try to keep the same ride height I chose 16". I tow our 40' 5th wheel with this truck. yes it is modified (eng, trans and added gear vendor). good luck, another great video. best of health to all of you and safe travels.
Thank you for doing these informative videos. It nice to see things to look for ahead of a possible purchase.
Most of this video was beyond me but I still enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing and educating!
I’ve got the same truck, just red, went to Ultra mags before first 100 miles. Did the tp delete thru fordscan. Love it.
2019 F350 here, It was definitely fill the tires check the diesel, instead of the other way around. This is the only thing I have hated about this truck. Knock on wood, new stems all around now and holding well for about 3 months so far. Great upgrade video, and I appreciate how you seem to know when the ads are going to pop up too. thanks!
2019 F350's also have the valve stem issue...out of six rims, I have replaced the steel valve stem to rubber on four rims as I got sick of slow leaks!!! Also, the Adaptive Steering Fault is a major pain!!
Tell me more about the Adaptive Steering Fault. I also have a 2019 and am unaware of the problem.
@@drgibson410 The adaptive steering module is standard on 2019's; the adaptive steering provides assistance to reduce the number of steering wheel revolutions in relation to the turning radius of the truck...pretty good standard equipment. The warning is an "adaptive steering fault" and is part of the lane departure and can cause the steering wheel to lock (per Ford) if not addressed once the fault warning begins. If you have not experienced the fault, you are good to go, but be aware it will need a new module once it falls and will include an entire new steering assembly w/ steering wheel. I just got my truck back today after 86 days in the shop waiting on firmware upgrade for the new adaptive steering module. I believe the adaptive steering is now an option on 2021 thru 2023 models and standard on 2017, 2018, & 2019...not sure if standard or an option on 2020 Super Duty Models.
I bought a brand new 2017 F350 just like yours. I had the same problem with the slow leak in the tires. I took it to the dealer multiple times, but kept having the issue. Then one time I took it to a Les Schwab location and told them it had a slow leak. They pulled the tire and said it was the valve stem and that it was causing corrosion...as you described ... so they replaced the metal valve stem with a rubber valve stem. My truck has the standard TPMS, so I was worried if it would still work, but they said that the TPMS housing is inside the wheel and that the metal valve stem goes through it. I didn't check out the specifics, but our only comment is that it worked. Our problem with the slow leak was fixed, and the TPMS still works just fine.
We wanted to share this because once we replaced all of the standard valve stems with rubber ones, we haven't had any more problems. You may want to look into this since 6 rubber valve stems are a heck of a lot cheaper than new wheels! ~ Bob (Michelle's husband)
I have braided extenders on my motorhome. What a Godsend!!
Yes Centramatics work. They were originally for semi trucks, been using them for over a decade, before we would put golf balls inside the tires.
I had six steel rims on my dually and added "Pacific Dually " stainless steel wheel covers. Looked great and allowed for proper wheel rotation using all six wheels. Love the centramatics. Tons of big rigs using them to really extend tire life. Also,note sure if you have added a FASS or AirDog fuel system to your truck but it might help keep that problematic CP4 pump alive. Great video!
Great video. I put Alcoa wheels on mine, no more problems.
Great video as always... just making sure you know that all your uplifter switches are wired directly into a box under the hood. Makes adding accessories really (really) easy. We hot-wired our dash cam and 2 extra USBs that I installed directly into the headliner.
One great addition for the truck. I just wish my Jeeps had these pre-wired uplifter switches since adding "stuff" to a Jeep is very normal.
I knew you did this video and came to find it when it was time for valve extenders for my F350. I will be using the Phoenix USA kit. Thanks for all you do for us RVers!!!
Love the Centramatic Wheel balancers. Best thing I ever installed on my 2016 RAM 3500. I noticed a big difference, and would suggest these should be stock right from the factory. Not affiliated with the company, just a satisfied customer.
Same here, love em. I also installed the Silastic shackles and not very impressed with them. Drive 2015 F-350 Dually.
Referred back to this, and glad I did. Went to look for the stems on my F450 DRW, and they are pointing inwards on top of each other. Promptly placed an order for the linked extensions, and will receive them next week. Then I can program and install the TPMS.
UPDATE: Received and installed the extensions. My only complaint is I had to cut out my hubs/covers because the base of the brackets were too wide.
Chad, Driving around without the 5th Wheel, you don't need to have the rear tires at 65 psi. If you are without trailer for a day or more, drop the rear duals tire pressure to 35 - 40 psi. It will help with the unloaded ride, and you still have way more tire capacity than what the trucks rear axle weight is. When you get ready to tow again, air the tires back up to towing pressure.
Thanks for the tip
It also keeps from wearing out the center of the tread when you’re not loaded.
I do the same. I used the ForScan software tool to lower the pressure at which the onboard TPMS turns on the tire warning light.
I tell people that all the time and look at me like I have a third eye. Make a huge difference on wear and ride.
True you can lower tire pressure, but not to 35-40. You will destroy the tires. 50 psi would be the lowest I would suggest
Steel rims with a chrome cap is what I had on my Dodge 3500. Looked great and no corrosion problem.
This was a great video!!
and………
“Don’t go off on tangents. Don’t go off on tangents.” That’s me.
I put those exact valve extenders on our Class A motor home when we first bought it (used). Worked fantastic! Sold her in August of 21'. Our F350 dully crew cab is on order and next spring it's 5th wheel time for our retirement.
I just bought a 2021 f250 with the upfitter switches. They did change the connection points. It’s now located at the fuse box on the passenger side.
Yup I found that out the hard way after wiring my Air Lift compressor al the way up the Driver's side frame, then digging around for 15 minutes in the engine well on the driver's side (there's a fuse looking box with extra wires hanging there too). I found the "Rat's Nest" of wires all taped up on the passenger side. |:-(
Thanks for sharing this video. We just bought a F350 and it good to know that other than the wheels you are happy with the truck over all. Love those bed steps! Thanks again
I had trouble getting that center cap off the rear wheels too.
Love the Goonies!
Great video, thanks for sharing our mods. I agree with you on the wheels. I've got a 2017 F350 DRW and I've got the exact same problem. Went to Ford dealership to see about getting them fixed and like you they said sorry not under warranty. Love, love, love the fix you showed for filling the tires = I've got to keep filling due to the slow leak. I was concerned about the stems causing your tires balance to be off and then you showed the bead ring, excellent solution. Guess I've got a couple of mods to do on my truck now, thanks to you :-)
Great info on that one, Chad. I’d heard of the 2 metal oxidation problem with the wheels but didn’t realize it was so big. Hope it works out for you and countless other Ford owners. Seems like a small problem that’s gotten out of control. I always enjoy you taking us along on projects and showing solutions to problems you encounter. Really appreciate your input and experience. Glad to see Tara a little in there. You know we do need our weekly “blondie” time 😜. And I think we can give you a pass on missing “The Goonies.” You were busy defending our nation around the time it came out! 🇺🇸. Thanks for another info filled episode. And great clip inserts as usual, Tara. Troy
The key to buying new wheels is dont buy because they look good. As a F350 owner I put a really good looking set on mine, however on the first tow of the rv I learned that wheels, like trucks, and RV have a weight rating. So as you did the number crunch for your truck and fifth wheel in the other video, do the number crunch on the weight rating on the wheels. My mistake cost me over 3k.
Chad, have you tried a flat or SAE washer on top of the bracket to prevent it from turning? Maybe even a machine bushing, that would be thinner still.
Great video Chad. Not sure if this was mentioned in the 784 comments but I have found that Ford DOES respond when you call them out on Twitter. No need to be nasty - just hold them accountable. I'm not a big Twitter guy but I've had great success in having issues resolved by both Ford and Jayco for items that were out of warranty and clearly manufacturing/design defects. Good luck!
Thanks agains guys. Get the 450 Chad, you’ll love it! 👍🏻
Awesome video Chad! Very, very informative! Thank you!
Chad, I have the same truck and same problem with wheel slow leaks. Been happening since the day I bought it. Had it to 7 different dealers and they are useless. Local tire shop said they can take em off clean em and seal em for $20 bucks. They do it all the time with this model. Maybe try a third party tire shop that works on work trucks. Not a ford dealer. Thanks for the tips, I’m totally getting those valve extenders to reach the inside tires! And we got our puppy throne based on y’all’s recommendation. Safe travels shipmate
in 43 years of owning my own vehicles and being an Truck tech. I have never seen an aluminum wheel bend with normal wear and tear, I have seen numerous steel wheel bend. that was the only reason I had to replace the wheel on my 1981 dually, ALL of the wheels were bent to the point of not getting a good balance on them anymore. plus steel wheels are more apt to rust and are heavier in most cases in comparison. best of health.
UPDATE- took the rig in to locally owned independent tire shop. They took the tire off the rim, cleaned up the inside resealed and reinstalled the Tom’s and valve stem and put it all back together. Charged me $10 bucks ! Works like a charm so far
Good job Chad. Very informative. I need to spend some more money on my truck it looks like. The wife will love that.
I love your method for putting the hubcap on. In the PD/FD/EMS field we call that the “foot key” for kicking in doors!
Hello Chad- Great video! I have a 2013 F350 DRW 6.7 Diesel and love it (never a problem and it tows like a dream) without a TPMS and have had this problem with the corroding rims for the last 8 years. Ford has been hush hush about this from the beginning. Fortunately, they haven't leaked but it's mindboggling how Ford has refused to do anything about this issue as they have known about it for quite some time. That class action lawsuit should be expanded to include more production years. Also, thank you for the information on the rear hubcap puller. Like you, i have never found a tool in my truck provided by Ford to pull them off. Guess I'll talk to my service writer at Ford about that. When it comes to those rims everything seems to be topsecret at Ford. Glad to see you found something to make adding air to the rear tires easier. I'm definetly going to give them a try. Keep up the great videos!
That wheel issue really is frustrating.. hmm. Welp, Honey! We have to go wheel shopping!
Received my 2022 F450 in mid-July of 2022 (7 month wait from the time I ordered btw). Had no idea about the wheel/valve stem issue! Thanks for that info! Keep it up!
Big Truck Big RV has had the same problem with his wheels ! That sucks that Ford won’t step up on this !!
I've been watching a number of videos about the Ford trucks. It seems Ford has issues which it is unwilling to address. I'm starting to think I should change directions from an F350 to a Dodge, I'm sorry, RAM 3500. I need a truck which can carry a much heavier load than my Dodge 2500, so I thought of Ford. Now I can't get the new engine (7.3 L gas) but every dealer seems to have a lot of 6.7 diesel powered trucks.
I have 2021 F350 with HD/Snowplow front end. No issues with 4k miles. Gonna put Bilsteins shocks on because I like improved steering response. Also, the 2021 has a new electronic assist contraption on the steering box. The 1997 I had the same issues and the bilsteins/HD upgrade fixed it.
@@petermchenry8185 Which engine do you have in your truck? In some ways I like the Ford, but the last one I owned was in 1983, which I sold when I transferred to Europe to work. I've had a GMC, a Chevy, and currently a Dodge. All were 3/4 ton trucks. Each time, I've learned something new to be aware of so the "next" time I won't make the same mistake.
@@Harry-zz2oh I have a 6.7.
I’m a Ford man traditionally but I am currently driving a 2019 RAM. Gotta get what’s right for you. Those rims would piss me off too. Keep up the great videos.
Vision 181 hauler duallie chrome wheel or Ion Alloy 167 dually polished
They are a match with factory height of your truck pretty sure you would find these to match your actual tire
I had a similar "beauty cap" on the rear wheels of our motor home. They actually mounted from the inside, so you had to remove the outer wheel to take them off. I removed them and tossed them in the garbage. I liked the look of seeing the full float axle better.
I love it "Don't Go Off On Tangent " 🤣🤣Oh hell sometimes we all need too 🤣🤣🥰🥰Safe Travels
Chad, Good video. I see 800 comments already, so I don't know if this is redundant, but... I've lived on our sailboat for the last 7 years, sailing the Pacific Ocean. Galvanic corrosion is always an issue on boats especially in a salt water environment. There are two ways to prevent galvanic corrosion: 1. Use a less "noble" metal like zinc as a sacrificial anode. and 2. Insulate the two metals from one another. I don't think putting zincs on wheels is practical but electrically isolating the stainless TPMS module from the wheel is. Sailboats like ours have aluminum masts with cleats, winches, blocks, etc. bolted to them with stainless steel screws. Those screws must be isolated from the aluminum of the mast or the mast will corrode. The best product I've seen for providing electrical isolation where two dissimilar metals must be in close contact is Tefgel. Tefgel is a teflon paste that establishes enough insulation between the metals to stop galvanic current from flowing and thus stop the corrosion. I've never had a corrosion problem where I've joined metals coated with Tefgel. I have no relationship with the people who make or sell Tefgel. It only recommend it because it works.
Always happy to see your videos! Good information as always! Hugs to you all!
Thank you, Chad, for covering valve stems. We've got the F-350 DRW for our Momentum, too, and every time we move and I go to check the tires....what a hassle. The hilarious thing is that I've stopped by Ford dealerships, and I mean those out in the country where DRW's are everywhere, and they don't have and don't install valve stems as recommended by Ford. All I can ever think is: How many people are simply not checking / filling their tires out here in the country?! You've now tested and basically recommended a product I can get installed. Your videos are always great, and great editing by Tara, as well.
RUclipsr Big Truck Big RV has the SAME issue with his F450 wheels and has already had a video on them on his channel AND I would not be surprised if he is not part of the class action suit, great video from you, thx...G
I have a 2015 F450 Platinum trim with similar aluminum wheels that I have had to have 1 outer rear valve stem replaced due to air leakage. Any Ford SuperDuty truck with the Alcoa knockoffs need to be included in the Class Action lawsuit.
Wheel balances are great. All 4 corners here, too. Dually also. Balances the whole package.
Cat's eye by link MFG is good for tire pressure on duallys. One fill stem and the cat's eye evens out the pressure automatically
I used crossfire dual equalizers on the truck I drove they worked well for the most part over time they rubbed on the rim and scuffed them. I put clear tubing around the hose and stop that.
@@TonyBenton0728 Doesn't that create 2 flat tires if you have a leak 🤔
@@jamesglenn520 No it has a safety feature in it where if one is going flat will not let the other one go flat; but it show you that it is low on air. Both cat’s eye and cross fires do the same thing just display different.
You're giving me a lot of ideas for things to do to my truck. Very thorough video. Thank you.
we had a 2017 ford f350 DRW also and the same leak on the same rims, ended up replacing them with steel rims. since then sold the truck due to other ford problem and bought a sport chassis instead. Chad I would look into your fuel pump on that truck its a CP4.
How timely and informative. I'm ordering the Bedsteps today.
I agree with your analysis of the airbags. I put the exact same system on a previous F350 SRW a year or two earlier and there was no noticeable ride improvement. They did allow me to keep the bed level but that was about it. Not worth it in my opinion for the cost. But looks cool having the bed raise up and down on demand.
I have the same model truck and i have the same problem with the slow leaks. On two wheels. I took it in to the dealer when it was well in warranty. they always said everything was fine. I had one valve stem replaced with an aftermarket one once when i was out traveling. It didn't help. as a side note I had purchased the extended warranty. When I got back from a long extended trip i took it back to the dealer for a routine oil change and told them my tires were still slowly leaking air. During that visit the dealer service writer unfortunately for him actually put down in the text message to me that both those valve stems were leaking and they needed to be replaced. But I was FOUR days out of the original factory warranty And it would cost over 250 dollars. Needless to say it got nasty. I wrote a passionate tactful letter to the dealership saying i had brought it in multiple times for leaks, they always said they couldn't find anything wrong, now the factory warranty has expired and all of a sudden it's diagnosed as the valve stems and my platinum extended warranty doesn't cover that. After some give and take they finally agreed to replace them. But amazingly enough they gave me no documentation. I should have demanded it. Three months later one seems to be doing pretty well, the other one still leaks but not as bad.
I have received my new Gmc 3500 Denali hd duramax 2021 and i love it.
Good going. I just bought valve extensions for the outside tire. I had the 90 degree extension and the tire leaked to 25 psi while sitting. Going to the Winnebago factory mid April. I’m hoping they will help me get them on. The coach came with the inner extender on and I really like how it works with the TPMS.
Once again, kiddos to you for your knowledge and outstanding abilities. Tara is a very lucky lady 👩🏼 and you are lucky to have her.
Nice 64 comet in the background
I had a 64 Comet for my first car. 3 speed on the column. A neighbor had the 63 Sprint 289 engine with 4 speed in the floor. Baby blue with Cragar mags. What a beautiful car and so was my 64 Comet. I loved that car. It was a two door .
@@donwat91 It's called "Three on the Tree!" :)
Your videos are always so professionally done. Great job!
Lol I was speaking to my husband about yall and i about had a heart attack thinking you guys were in front of us we was on our way to Cherokee but no toy hauler and i didn't figure it out until we was passing
Chad, Love you guys! Yep, this is a Ford problem for a while, and options are limited if you want the same style. You can get 4 steel wheels (which are your current inside wheels) and they look nice when powder coated in a metallic sheen. There are lots of guys that bro their trucks up, and a set of takeoffs, if caught early, will work, as long as you install Ford P/N F2GZ1700D in place of the stock FR3Z1700C. The F2GZ mate with the factory TPMS sender in the tire, and eliminate the different metal corrosion entirely. The F2GZ's are on backorder: my tire guru is still waiting for mine, 5 weeks and counting. Be safe, THANK YOU for your service to our country, keep the vlogs coming!
F2GZ1700D don't show as compatible with my 2017 F-350 DRW 4x4 Crewcab Diesel. Do you have first hand experience for these fitting? Thanks
ALCOA Nothing wrong with them and take the metal valve stems off replace with rubber stems and you prob will stop . retired truck driver with over 3million miles ive had my fare share of tires wheels and stems anyway give it a try might just surprise you.
Rubber stems arnt rated for 80 psi that 10 ply tires are
@@vannorman1116 i run 110 pounds tire pressure in my kw trucks and they have never gave me a problem
UPDATE 2.0- I just spoke with Pete from Haltec, and have something others may be interested in. At the Haltec site, search for parts: HE-204 (Bent Extension for Standard Bore Valve ) and HE-343, 344, or 345 (Air-Flexx Valve Extensions ). The HE-204 will permit the valve extension from the outer rim to pass back through the smaller hole in the aluminum rim, and the HE-343... can be used to route the valve extension from the inner rim out as well. I found it interesting that the HE-300 series of extensions specify "* No need for clamp, holder, or stabilizer". So unlike the other valve extension systems, this one appears to not need the support brackets that bolt on under the lug nuts. So, there's what I've found out as possible solutions to Dicor not making the original valve extension sets.
"Don't go off on tangents. Don't go off on tangents"
I absolutely felt that
I enjoyed watching this! Good program!
UPDATE: I called Haltec, and am waiting a return call from their engineer. I spoke again with Jim at Phoenix to get some more clarification on why their systems won't work on aluminum rims. The holes in the aluminum rims on the Ford are only about 1 1/2" in dia. The holes on the steel rims are about 4-5" long and 3-3 1/2" wide. With the outer valve stem pointing inward, the valve extension hose, for its valve, has a "kink" in it to permit the hose to pass back through the rim hole. Since the hole is so small, Jim did not think the "kink" would be sufficient to permit the hose to pass back through the rim to the outside. As I examined my situation, I wondered if it was actually necessary that the valve stem be positioned to point inward? Could it be rotated in the valve stem hole in the rim, say 90 degrees, so that it could be easily accessed from the outside of the wheel? Well, I called my handy dandy tire shop to inquire. They informed me swiveling the valve stem around in the hole in the rim would be NO problem! So, I believe that is what I'm going to do, and then just purchase the necessary hose to extend the inner valve stem, through the hole in the outer rim for easy access!
Any update news about this upgrade?
Another great video, you’re the first I’ve heard that didn’t see a benefit from air bags. I tow with a F250 and the bags level out the truck beautifully and prevent the suspension from compressing over bumps. Smooths out the ride nicely. Huge difference for me.
surprised the dually has a 3.55:1 rear end...cheaper to upgrade to a 4:10 then buy a new truck
My 2020 F350 has the same
3:73 will do just fine with the 6 speed automatic. The gear set are about $300 each plus seals etc and labor. $2,000 total is a good estimation to change gears.
@@Garth2011 I agree that a 3:73 gear set would be better than the current 3:55. Fuel mileage might be off some, but overall it would be a better upgrade.
@@markbremmer8642 I doubt he will notice it with that load he has. Who knows, it might even improve.
Chad I have had valve stem problems on my 2018 f350 since the truck was 6 months old and can’t count the number of repairs. I went to a new tire shop in Thunder Bay Ontario and they cleaned up the corrosion and installed high pressure rubber valve stems and my tpms sensors fastened to the new stem just like on the factory ones. Best $30 I ever spent and no more leaks.
19.5" wheels and tires would go a long way to improving your stability too,and they look much better in those Giant wheel wells
I agree, that’s one thing I’ve never understood about Ford trucks, the wheels don’t fill the wheel well and it looks stupid.
@@corydriver7634 all the F350 and 3500’s look stupid unloaded however it’s difficult to have springs not under load shoot to the sky.
How bout the ride quality of 19.5s? Also consider the weight of 19.5s. They’re great on the proper application and yes they have a higher weight capacity and stability but with that come a much stiffer sidewall= harsher ride. Their physical weight degrades acceleration and braking performance as well as reducing cargo weight capacity. With a rig as large as they’re pulling it might put them over GVWR.
On one of my service trucks, a 2017 F-550 I upgraded tires (OE Continental 19.5s are junk and will throw tread blocks within 30K miles) to a wider and slightly taller load range H Michelin’s. GVWR of that truck was 19,500Lbs and had 4.88:1 gear ratio. I never ran it across the scales but I bet I was tapped out or a little over because it was squatting. I was shocked by the drastic difference in acceleration and braking. Yes I’ve owned lifted, modified trucks with much larger oversized tires, changed axles, set up new gear ratios, driven a lot of OE and modified vehicles, I know the physics and I was still shocked because the slight increase in diameter and definitely more weight from the higher load rating had the same net results as I’ve seen from replacing OE tires to 37” tires.
Centramatic wheel balancers are SOLID. I have them on my 2014 F-250 and it makes a big difference. I notice it more when I am not towing than when I am towing. Under load, my truck rides like a dream. Empty I can feel every bump and the centramatics helped to reduce the vibration from rocks stuck in the tire and other balancing issues
My Chevy 4x4 truck is in the beach chase scene Goonies movie.
Another great informative video. I really like the joy of driving with as little maintenance as possible. So I am incorporating A LOT of your upgrades for the truck and trailer in to my first RV to prevent later headaches. Thanks for the great info.
Hello Chad you will definitely feel the difference if you have a 3000lb camper in the bed. I've replaced the stock bump stop with airbag and the ride quality is 100% smoother. If you don't have a load in the bed you can really tell the difference maybe a little. Good video Chad.
Drew Valk
Great info and we added a Train Horn under the truck bed next to the drive shaft on the right side and we need it on occasion pulling our Momentum 381M. It gets their attention and they see how big we are and usually get out of the way quicker. Therefore we were only able to install the portable side step on the left side behind the driver side considering the Train Horn and compressor is under the chassis on the right side where the right side extra step would be located. Thanks and ordering some of the upgrades you mentioned right away.
A word of warning is the stainless steel braided line on outside will rub on the aluminum rim ! I used to use a product called crossfire dual pressure equalizers on the semi truck I drove they equalized the pressure in the dual wheels air up from one stem also you could see if the pressure in the tires was ok just by walking by ; over time the hose moves and scuffs the rim. You can put a piece of clean tube around it to prevent it.
Hahaha my wife is always telling me to stop going off on tangents. Love the channel and detailed explanations.
This channel has become my favorite.
Great upgrades! I have the same truck. The only way to get the rear suspension better, other than going Kelderman, is by replacing the leaf pack with Deaver leaf packs. The airbags will do the heavy lifting while towing and the ride is super smooth when no trailer is hooked up. I replaced my wheels at about 30k miles but I also had the air leak issue. I replaced the sidesteps with the Ford factory extended steps. Found them on Craigslist for $200. The only thing I have an issue with now is the turning radius but that’s not enough for me to let her go just yet! Keep it up guys, really enjoy your vids!
I have had to buy 2 new rims for the front of my 2015 F350 (which uses the same aluminum wheels as your 2017) due to hairline cracks at the valve stem hole in the rims! I thought that it was due to crappy roads on I-80 in Indiana and Illinois but it was in part due to the place I bought my tires from replacing the valve stems with the WRONG valve stem! The crappy pot hole filled roads was only part of the problem! OH and cracks in aluminum rims like that...CANT BE FIXED! So now I have $1000 in fancy aluminum rims as garden hose hangers!! Keep up the great content!
Best video on the back tires yet! OMG I have battled that in my 2019 DRW since I got. Same issue with the fronts.....replace the wheels 2000.00
I agree 100% on the inner duallys. PITA. Will look to install the valve extenders.
Very Nice Video, Thanks again for the invite. Can I make a couple of suggestions? Ok, I will. You know what dielectric compound is don't you? That is a compound kind of like a lube, a grease, an insulator for dis-similar metals, inexpensive and it works. Next, on your air lines on the duals, not a good idea to have the extensions laying against the wheels, pick up some fuel line that is close to the outside diameter of the extension...cut one side lengthwise straight...install over the extension prior to where it contacts thru the hole in the wheel (so it would be approx. 1.5" max. inside B tween the wheels), the run the hose as needed for length, then use cable ties to the hose to hold it in place, as needed. Do likewise to all the extensions as needed. As far as the alignment issue with the hoses while tightening, pick up 4 hardened washers the size of your lug studs, when you place you hose bracket on the wheel, put a hardened flat washer on top then the nut, should make that job lots easier. Another inexpensive fix. There is No big rush to do any of what I suggested, but when you feel the need to man up and do it...it works for me...lol.
A thought on the corrosion, heavy trucks have run aluminum wheels with stainless valve stems forever. The valve stems attach with a threaded bolt on the inside of rim with rubber inner and outer seals so steel never touches the rim. Plus they come in lengths upwards of 5 inches so may solve your reach problem....Just a thought.
Never had a problem on my 06 F350 DRW with corrosion. My 14 F350 DRW had to sets. When I ordered my 2021 F350 I decided to go SRW cause the DRW were the same as my old and I knew I was going to dealing with corrosion again soon.
BIG HINT: Use "NYLOG BLUE" its used for sealing the 400 lb copper flanges on a mini split ac unit. I use it on the vale stems. It seals and never gets hard. Best thing for keeping your air extenders from leaking.
Hi Chad, Ok lets start with a huge thank you on all the info for the Dicor air system and the hub remover tool (even Ford cant get them off)... so I had a 2017 Lariat 350 DRW same as you and I did get Ford to replace all 4 wheels due to the corrosion problem..... Then I traded up to a F450 DRW Limited and its worth every penny except for the problem with the corrosion wheels is still evident (just starting). So I will start again with my dealer on replacement, but Id like a remedy. Also the 450 does not have the dash tpms for the truck tires but does have it for the trailer. Now for the ride, I did not put bags on this one and it defiantly rides softer then the 350 with bags (but I didn't remove my bump stops). I think its the Conti tires are softer then the Michelin. And yes the turning radius is super great. I also like the motorized running boards because they deploy to a lower position, and its easier to get my fat ass into the truck and not as far to jump down. However your sweet bed step wont work here with the 450 deploy-able running boards, maybe Ford should just extend the running boards.The wires on the up-fitter switches are a fuzz longer... Also the 3:55 rear end on the 350 was just fine for me with the 15K trailer, now its the 4:33 (or something close) and I honestly cant tell the difference until I look at fuel millage....lol... Paul from the N/E corner of Illinois.
That corrosion is called "filiform" corrosion. Yes, it is where aluminum and steel meet. Airstream owners know all about it. My Tundra has aluminum rims and steel valve stems with no corrosion, and they used Dill 902-W valve stems. They are steel stems with a rubber washer through the rim. So the two metals never touch. I used those stems on the Sendel rims that came with Airstream. You can clean (sand/polish) the corrosion, but it will return anywhere the coating on the metal is missing (like in the hole for a stem.)
Great video and wonderful information as always!!!
Hi Chad, I have the same truck as you, pretty much, same color, same year. I saw the steel valve stems in the aluminum wheels and because of my work (long story) recognized it would be a problem. 10,000 miles in, corrosion and leakage. A very good truck service manager in New Hampshire took pictures and sent them to Ford. They sent out a brand new set of wheels and he replaced the corroded ones and used 2016 super duty rubber stems and tpms units all under warranty at the time. Never had another problem with leaks. Cost 0.00 to me. I told everyone I ran into that had Ford alumaduty duallys to look into it on that basis. The message is, they can fix it, if the dealer is pro active. At this point for you, maybe machine the valve seats and install the rubber 2016 units. I hope that helps in some way. Warren.
Chad, I had several F350's and then f550 and finally an F450. First off all the great things you commented about in the F450 are from the F550. Bigger brakes, stronger rear frame rails, wide frt axle with super tight steering, locker in the rear end. That being said you might want to consider something that we upgraded to. An HDT or class 8 semi registered as an RV. This permits you in most states to drive the Semi with a standard license you would use to drive a class A coach or motorhome. In Mn this covers class A coaches up to 26k. We purchased a 2004 Volvo 630 with a hauler deck on the back and an air ride hitch (ET Hitch) and one of the rear axles removed. We are towing 19-23k worth of toy hauler and the truck doesn't even know it's back there. 440hp/1650ft trq. The brakes are designed to deal with 80k of total load so it stops when and where you need it to. mileage is close to what you are mostl likely getting now. You also won't wear it out like you are doing with that 65-85,000 dollar F350.