If theres one thing ive learned over the years soldering is that the difference between a novice and a skilled soldering job is using more flux, when in doubt while getting shorts just slap more onto it. Also tip for the people just getting into this, the reason solder fumes so much is the flux core of the solder burning way, you can let this happen with drag soldering but do try to minimize the time you spend just letting it burn off, thats flux that you paid for! Also mirobo thanks for the short and sweet video, would have loved something this concise as a beginner.
Thanks! Great advice. You're right - if there's a short between some of the connector pins after soldering, adding more flux and heating it again usually takes care of the problem.
What am I supposed to do if I can’t tin the data pads. I try going over the copper pads like shown in the beginning of the video but the solder just sticks to the tip and doesn’t transfer.
Been 7 years looking for repair 😢 I need some help with my Bose 700 headphones. The USB-C charging port just got fried the second I plugged it in, and now the plastic around it is deformed. I think it was some kind of short circuit. Any tips on who to approach, or what kind of repair shop is best for this? I’m definitely not going to try to repair this myself.
If it's a short circuit, you'll want to get to the root of the problem too. Look for well-known electronic repair shops in your area. Sometimes, music stores will know people doing local electronic repairs. Good luck!
It depends on the solder and the type of work you're soldering. For these small electronic parts I usually use leaded solder and a temperature of 700°F (370°C).
Right!?! Maybe it's just easier for their pick and place machines to stick with all surface mount parts. Hopefully, more laptop manufacturers will make sure that their port connectors are at least mounted on easily replaceable mini circuit boards to make repairs easier.
Drag soldering is more useful when soldering SMT pins. For through board pins you need to keep the iron on the pins a little longer so that the solder could soak through.
If you can get access to the soldered leads, using braided solder wick is usually a good way to remove the old or excess solder. Then, add liquid or paste flux as shown in the video and solder in the replacement connector.
@@mirobotech Thank you! It seems this can be done. I however have never soldered before and think I can damage it. Do you happen to know how much solderers charge for this specific task?
Yes, the newest design of this board (UBMP4.3) has two 5.1k resistors connected between the USB-C CC1 and CC2 lines and ground to obtain 5V through a USB-C to USB-C cable. The board used in the video needs to be connected through a USB-A to USB-C cable to obtain 5V. An inexpensive alternative to get 5V from USB-C is this USB-C breakout board from Sparkfun: www.sparkfun.com/products/15100
Do i have to clean off the flux after this, and my USB c got ripped off accidently when I am removing my cable and there are some remaining pieces in the mounting holes, how can I remove these?
I would recommend that you always clean away the excess flux unless you are using solder containing a no-clean flux. Check the solder manufacturer's recommendations for the best flux remover to use. I used solder containing a water-soluble flux, and a flux pen containing water-soluble flux to ensure they were compatible and to make flux removal and clean-up easy. To remove pieces of component leads from their mounting holes without a good desoldering tool I usually heat the component pad, add some fresh solder, and then quickly whack the circuit board against the edge of my solder mat - I refer to this as slamming. This usually ejects the solder, including the component lead, right out of the solder pad and onto the solder mat. Just be careful about the direction the hot solder flies in!
What I'm trying to do is replace a missing female port on a Bluetooth speaker, it would be the only way to get the speaker charged and working again. The original missing port was a micro USB if that makes any difference. I'm replacing it with a USB c. On the speaker, there are two wires going from the battery to a tiny plug that is plugged into a circuit board. The old USB port is completely missing, the external opening for it is just above the circuit board. The replacement that I want to solder, has three wires extending from it's own tiny circuit board: red, blue, and black. I'm assuming red is hot, blue is neutral, and black is ground? And that's it. I can't really tell where the original port was soldered. I don't see any evidence of melting or scorching on the speakers circuit board. I'm certain that the wires from the port do not go directly to the battery, but to the circuit board. I just need to figure out where to solder the wires to the circuit board. Easy-peasy! Lol *_Edit --- I finally figured out that I need to remove the circuit board and wires from the used port I'm installing. So no wires at all, it solders on to the circuit board just like in this video._
That's interesting, I haven't come across any USB ports already mounted on pcbs with wires attached. But, it seems like you have been able to remove the wires and solder the USB connector onto the board!
It's important to use the same type of flux as is in your solder. I used the MG Chemicals water soluble flux pen for the video: mgchemicals.com/category/soldering-supplies/flux-pens/ Since Amazon differs by country, you're better to get one from your local electronics supplier. Here's a link to the Digi-Key (USA) site: www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/flux-flux-remover/266?s=N4IgTCBcDaIM4HsA2ATApgJwAQDMkFcAPEAXQF8g
That's a good question, and I haven't found an answer on the manufacturer's website: gct.co/connector/usb4085 . They may be designed that way to be more compatible with .8mm thick pcb substrates, or just for the lowest profile in a typical 1.6mm thick pcb. If anyone knows, I'd love to hear the explanation. :)
Could be for EMI reasons. USB-C can carry up to 40Gbit/s of digital data (so with a lot of high frequency harmonics). A few mm of extra length can already mess up the signal and cause excessive reflection and other issues. PS: I think there are other types of USB-C connectors that already contain the cross connection for the 2 sides of power and data pins and only expose the power, USB-2 and control data lines. The other pins are only really required for USB 3.2 Gen 1 & 2 and separate pins for both sides is only required for Gen 2x2 and USB 4 & Thunderbolt.
@@Ether_Void Good point! High frequencies and stub connections aren't a a great mix. Yes, I've seen some of those connectors, but this one was readily available, cheap, and stocked in large quantities at Digi-Key.
any fool can do it this way my board is mounted in the camera dashboard camera and the USB connector fell off what I'd like to do is just lay it back where it goes put the iron on it let it get hot consider it on that way but I don't have anybody showing me this
If the pins are poking out the side of the connector and accessible to a soldering iron tip, you too can be a fool and solder it this way. 😉 If the pins are underneath, you may need to look for hot air or hot plate soldering videos...
If theres one thing ive learned over the years soldering is that the difference between a novice and a skilled soldering job is using more flux, when in doubt while getting shorts just slap more onto it. Also tip for the people just getting into this, the reason solder fumes so much is the flux core of the solder burning way, you can let this happen with drag soldering but do try to minimize the time you spend just letting it burn off, thats flux that you paid for! Also mirobo thanks for the short and sweet video, would have loved something this concise as a beginner.
Thanks! Great advice. You're right - if there's a short between some of the connector pins after soldering, adding more flux and heating it again usually takes care of the problem.
1:31 - 1:59 MASTER CLASS !!!
Awesome, truly professional stuff which i saw for the first time here on RUclips!
Thanks!
More soldering videos please! All the videos are 10 years old and this one is top notch quality
Thanks! Glad you liked it. I'll try to do some more in the future.
@mirobo tech Please do! As someone who is getting into the hands on aspect of my degree, videos like this are very useful
Thank you just got in the micro soldering and it worked!
Awesome! I'm glad it worked for you. 😀
Thanks man! Gonna repair my phone this way soon. Never soldered tiny parts like this, so this helps :)
Good luck with your phone repair!
Awesome demonstration
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
What am I supposed to do if I can’t tin the data pads. I try going over the copper pads like shown in the beginning of the video but the solder just sticks to the tip and doesn’t transfer.
Been 7 years looking for repair 😢
I need some help with my Bose 700 headphones. The USB-C charging port just got fried the second I plugged it in, and now the plastic around it is deformed. I think it was some kind of short circuit. Any tips on who to approach, or what kind of repair shop is best for this? I’m definitely not going to try to repair this myself.
If it's a short circuit, you'll want to get to the root of the problem too. Look for well-known electronic repair shops in your area. Sometimes, music stores will know people doing local electronic repairs. Good luck!
What is a good temp for the soldering gun to be at?
It depends on the solder and the type of work you're soldering. For these small electronic parts I usually use leaded solder and a temperature of 700°F (370°C).
A tiny board like this uses a thru hole USB C connector, yet modern laptops use surface mount USB C connectors as a charge port ! CRAZY 😩
Right!?! Maybe it's just easier for their pick and place machines to stick with all surface mount parts. Hopefully, more laptop manufacturers will make sure that their port connectors are at least mounted on easily replaceable mini circuit boards to make repairs easier.
The Dell tablet I'm working on has both! Paid $30 Canadian for one port🤦
Drag soldering is more useful when soldering SMT pins. For through board pins you need to keep the iron on the pins a little longer so that the solder could soak through.
You're right, and it also works well on this particular USB-C connector because the pins are so short and the PCB pads are so small. :)
Hello. The USB connector of my car audio got destroyed. I've already dettached it.
What do I need to do to remove and replace it?
If you can get access to the soldered leads, using braided solder wick is usually a good way to remove the old or excess solder. Then, add liquid or paste flux as shown in the video and solder in the replacement connector.
@@mirobotech Thank you! It seems this can be done.
I however have never soldered before and think I can damage it.
Do you happen to know how much solderers charge for this specific task?
Nice and Clean 👍👍
Please make one such Video for esp32 wroom chip too.
Thanks! Interesting idea. I'll consider it for a future video.
Hello does this usb model need a 5.1K resistor? i just want to use it for pcb as a port with usb 5v power.Thanks for the Tip
Yes, the newest design of this board (UBMP4.3) has two 5.1k resistors connected between the USB-C CC1 and CC2 lines and ground to obtain 5V through a USB-C to USB-C cable. The board used in the video needs to be connected through a USB-A to USB-C cable to obtain 5V. An inexpensive alternative to get 5V from USB-C is this USB-C breakout board from Sparkfun: www.sparkfun.com/products/15100
@@mirobotech Thank you im gonna try this and your method
Do i have to clean off the flux after this, and my USB c got ripped off accidently when I am removing my cable and there are some remaining pieces in the mounting holes, how can I remove these?
I would recommend that you always clean away the excess flux unless you are using solder containing a no-clean flux. Check the solder manufacturer's recommendations for the best flux remover to use. I used solder containing a water-soluble flux, and a flux pen containing water-soluble flux to ensure they were compatible and to make flux removal and clean-up easy.
To remove pieces of component leads from their mounting holes without a good desoldering tool I usually heat the component pad, add some fresh solder, and then quickly whack the circuit board against the edge of my solder mat - I refer to this as slamming. This usually ejects the solder, including the component lead, right out of the solder pad and onto the solder mat. Just be careful about the direction the hot solder flies in!
@@mirobotech alr thanks! What can i use to heat the component pad? Hair dryer?
@@ax1236 Haha, no, a hair dryer won't be hot enough. You will need to use a soldering iron, soldering hot plate, or hot air system.
@@johnrampelt4354 oh i have a soldering iron? So what do i do just heat up the sockets by pressing the tip?
were can i buy the usb C port ?
This one is part number USB4085-GF-A made by GCT. I get them from Digi-Key.
How about a proper usb c port with two rows of pads instead of the simple pin type? Anyone can solder this type of port.
I thought this was a proper USB-C port. 😉
👍👍
😀
What I'm trying to do is replace a missing female port on a Bluetooth speaker, it would be the only way to get the speaker charged and working again. The original missing port was a micro USB if that makes any difference. I'm replacing it with a USB c.
On the speaker, there are two wires going from the battery to a tiny plug that is plugged into a circuit board.
The old USB port is completely missing, the external opening for it is just above the circuit board. The replacement that I want to solder, has three wires extending from it's own tiny circuit board: red, blue, and black. I'm assuming red is hot, blue is neutral, and black is ground?
And that's it. I can't really tell where the original port was soldered. I don't see any evidence of melting or scorching on the speakers circuit board. I'm certain that the wires from the port do not go directly to the battery, but to the circuit board. I just need to figure out where to solder the wires to the circuit board. Easy-peasy! Lol
*_Edit --- I finally figured out that I need to remove the circuit board and wires from the used port I'm installing. So no wires at all, it solders on to the circuit board just like in this video._
That's interesting, I haven't come across any USB ports already mounted on pcbs with wires attached. But, it seems like you have been able to remove the wires and solder the USB connector onto the board!
Give me Amazon buying link for water soluble flux pen 837 p
It's important to use the same type of flux as is in your solder. I used the MG Chemicals water soluble flux pen for the video: mgchemicals.com/category/soldering-supplies/flux-pens/
Since Amazon differs by country, you're better to get one from your local electronics supplier. Here's a link to the Digi-Key (USA) site: www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/flux-flux-remover/266?s=N4IgTCBcDaIM4HsA2ATApgJwAQDMkFcAPEAXQF8g
@@mirobotech I appreciate your efforts 👌👌👌👌
Why did they have to make it so the pins don’t even go through???
That's a good question, and I haven't found an answer on the manufacturer's website: gct.co/connector/usb4085 . They may be designed that way to be more compatible with .8mm thick pcb substrates, or just for the lowest profile in a typical 1.6mm thick pcb. If anyone knows, I'd love to hear the explanation. :)
@@mirobotech if the pins were one or two mm, that’d be amazing. I’d even prefer the kind you clip vs what they have
Could be for EMI reasons. USB-C can carry up to 40Gbit/s of digital data (so with a lot of high frequency harmonics). A few mm of extra length can already mess up the signal and cause excessive reflection and other issues.
PS: I think there are other types of USB-C connectors that already contain the cross connection for the 2 sides of power and data pins and only expose the power, USB-2 and control data lines. The other pins are only really required for USB 3.2 Gen 1 & 2 and separate pins for both sides is only required for Gen 2x2 and USB 4 & Thunderbolt.
@@Ether_Void Good point! High frequencies and stub connections aren't a a great mix. Yes, I've seen some of those connectors, but this one was readily available, cheap, and stocked in large quantities at Digi-Key.
@@Ether_Void Saving money by using less metal is also up there as a priority :)
Step 1 in learning to solder: Buy a bucket of flux.
Step 2 in learning to solder: Buy a second bucket of flux.
Haha! Just make sure it's flux for electronic circuits!
any fool can do it this way my board is mounted in the camera dashboard camera and the USB connector fell off what I'd like to do is just lay it back where it goes put the iron on it let it get hot consider it on that way but I don't have anybody showing me this
If the pins are poking out the side of the connector and accessible to a soldering iron tip, you too can be a fool and solder it this way. 😉 If the pins are underneath, you may need to look for hot air or hot plate soldering videos...
are u drunk ? this is ez we wnt with pins not holes
I don't recommend soldering while drunk. 😂
@@mirobotech im sry 😂😂i talk about usb with pin in the PCB , the holes is ez i want to learn the other one
You forgot to dress as opposite gender!
No, I deliberately didn't title the video "Soldering a USB-C connector in drag". ;-)
I hate soldering... 🙁... Why don't u just help yourself Get in there, usb... 😳.. Friggin thing is so damn small... I just... Can't... 😳
I actually enjoy soldering (but I hate painting) - watching the solder wick into each of the tiny holes in this connector is almost therapeutic! 🤣
@@mirobotech well I love painting... I love those body paints... 😳