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If you've applied a fresh coating of flux to the pads and the solder is not sticking, you'll need to clean the board with a flux remover and then try again with a new fresh coating of flux. Hope you get it to work!

If it's a short circuit, you'll want to get to the root of the problem too. Look for well-known electronic repair shops in your area. Sometimes, music stores will know people doing local electronic repairs. Good luck!

You've got it! The ambient light sensor, analog temperature sensor, and both potentiometers were put on-board for learning/teaching programming, and jumpers let these pins be re-purposed as the optical floor/line sensors and battery voltage divider for a robot. 🤖

Yes, I have some new prototype BEAPER Pico PCBs I'm happy with! I just haven't had the time to write them up on the website or create a video yet. 😂

Great question! I design these for schools and makerspaces so that the students can learn to solder and assemble their circuits themselves. 😃

@@mirobotech Thank you for your reply and making it clear!!

Thanks! I've used the previous version with introductory grade 10 computer technology classes and both the ARPS circuit and its learning activities made it really easy for them to learn Arduino programming and build simple Sumo robots. I'll have bare PCBs and kits available soon, so please boost it to all of your friends!

If you can get access to the soldered leads, using braided solder wick is usually a good way to remove the old or excess solder. Then, add liquid or paste flux as shown in the video and solder in the replacement connector.

@@mirobotech Thank you! It seems this can be done. I however have never soldered before and think I can damage it. Do you happen to know how much solderers charge for this specific task?

It depends on the solder and the type of work you're soldering. For these small electronic parts I usually use leaded solder and a temperature of 700°F (370°C).

This one is part number USB4085-GF-A made by GCT. I get them from Digi-Key.

Haha! Just make sure it's flux for electronic circuits!

The proliferation of small, inexpensive, and easy to use modules has certainly opened up the world of small microcontrollers to many more people than when we had to design and build our own circuits! :)

You're right, and it also works well on this particular USB-C connector because the pins are so short and the PCB pads are so small. :)

Thanks! I'm having lots of fun with it.

@@mirobotech Yes I too have had lots of fun designing a dozen or so boards and having them made. I just do these mostly for fun. A few have helped solve problems on my farm and a few designs work well for the "Learn to Solder" workshops I do as a volunteer at local public libraries. I donate the boards, components and use of my 6 solder station setups for the workshops. Over the last 10 years we have had more than 200 people do these 2 hour workshops with almost all leaving with a working board. My favorite board for this time of year is a Christmas tree shaped PCB with blinky lights and buzzer Christmas tunes coded on an ATtiny85. I have a couple of videos on my channel where I document the design. I have never thought about selling my designs but I commend you for taking it to the next level. It looks like your prices will make your customers happy but won't make you rich. Good luck and thanks for giving back to the community.

If the pins are poking out the side of the connector and accessible to a soldering iron tip, you too can be a fool and solder it this way. 😉 If the pins are underneath, you may need to look for hot air or hot plate soldering videos...

Good luck with your phone repair!

Thanks!

Awesome! I'm glad it worked for you. 😀

I don't recommend soldering while drunk. 😂

@@mirobotech im sry 😂😂i talk about usb with pin in the PCB , the holes is ez i want to learn the other one

That's interesting, I haven't come across any USB ports already mounted on pcbs with wires attached. But, it seems like you have been able to remove the wires and solder the USB connector onto the board!

I thought this was a proper USB-C port. 😉

Thanks! Glad you like it - it was designed to be easy for beginners to make. 😀

😀

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.

I would recommend that you always clean away the excess flux unless you are using solder containing a no-clean flux. Check the solder manufacturer's recommendations for the best flux remover to use. I used solder containing a water-soluble flux, and a flux pen containing water-soluble flux to ensure they were compatible and to make flux removal and clean-up easy. To remove pieces of component leads from their mounting holes without a good desoldering tool I usually heat the component pad, add some fresh solder, and then quickly whack the circuit board against the edge of my solder mat - I refer to this as slamming. This usually ejects the solder, including the component lead, right out of the solder pad and onto the solder mat. Just be careful about the direction the hot solder flies in!

@@mirobotech alr thanks! What can i use to heat the component pad? Hair dryer?

@@ax1236 Haha, no, a hair dryer won't be hot enough. You will need to use a soldering iron, soldering hot plate, or hot air system.

@@johnrampelt4354 oh i have a soldering iron? So what do i do just heat up the sockets by pressing the tip?

Right!?! Maybe it's just easier for their pick and place machines to stick with all surface mount parts. Hopefully, more laptop manufacturers will make sure that their port connectors are at least mounted on easily replaceable mini circuit boards to make repairs easier.

The Dell tablet I'm working on has both! Paid $30 Canadian for one port🤦

It's important to use the same type of flux as is in your solder. I used the MG Chemicals water soluble flux pen for the video: mgchemicals.com/category/soldering-supplies/flux-pens/ Since Amazon differs by country, you're better to get one from your local electronics supplier. Here's a link to the Digi-Key (USA) site: www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/flux-flux-remover/266?s=N4IgTCBcDaIM4HsA2ATApgJwAQDMkFcAPEAXQF8g

@@mirobotech I appreciate your efforts 👌👌👌👌

Thanks, I'll try to!

Thanks! Great advice. You're right - if there's a short between some of the connector pins after soldering, adding more flux and heating it again usually takes care of the problem.

No, I deliberately didn't title the video "Soldering a USB-C connector in drag". ;-)

Yes, the newest design of this board (UBMP4.3) has two 5.1k resistors connected between the USB-C CC1 and CC2 lines and ground to obtain 5V through a USB-C to USB-C cable. The board used in the video needs to be connected through a USB-A to USB-C cable to obtain 5V. An inexpensive alternative to get 5V from USB-C is this USB-C breakout board from Sparkfun: www.sparkfun.com/products/15100

@@mirobotech Thank you im gonna try this and your method

Thanks! Glad you liked it. I'll try to do some more in the future.

@mirobo tech Please do! As someone who is getting into the hands on aspect of my degree, videos like this are very useful

I actually enjoy soldering (but I hate painting) - watching the solder wick into each of the tiny holes in this connector is almost therapeutic! 🤣

@@mirobotech well I love painting... I love those body paints... 😳

That's a good question, and I haven't found an answer on the manufacturer's website: gct.co/connector/usb4085 . They may be designed that way to be more compatible with .8mm thick pcb substrates, or just for the lowest profile in a typical 1.6mm thick pcb. If anyone knows, I'd love to hear the explanation. :)

@@mirobotech if the pins were one or two mm, that’d be amazing. I’d even prefer the kind you clip vs what they have

Could be for EMI reasons. USB-C can carry up to 40Gbit/s of digital data (so with a lot of high frequency harmonics). A few mm of extra length can already mess up the signal and cause excessive reflection and other issues. PS: I think there are other types of USB-C connectors that already contain the cross connection for the 2 sides of power and data pins and only expose the power, USB-2 and control data lines. The other pins are only really required for USB 3.2 Gen 1 & 2 and separate pins for both sides is only required for Gen 2x2 and USB 4 & Thunderbolt.

@@Ether_Void Good point! High frequencies and stub connections aren't a a great mix. Yes, I've seen some of those connectors, but this one was readily available, cheap, and stocked in large quantities at Digi-Key.

@@Ether_Void Saving money by using less metal is also up there as a priority :)

Thanks! Interesting idea. I'll consider it for a future video.