Of the many Dedicated Home Theater rooms I've designed and installed, the #1 recommendation is to install an Exterior Door & frame as the interior door to the Theater. Basically it's a gasketed seal so almost NO sound is transmitted through the house. I can't tell you how many times people spend thousands of $$$$ to treat the room to isolate the sound within the room; just to have a traditional interior door where the sound from the theater room just shoots under and around the door and into the rest of the house. Of course we still have room treatments within the room, staggered studs, and many similar points as mentioned in this video. Oh, and also a Mini-split or separate HVAC system for the theater room. Once again, if the HVAC is part of the "house" system, sound will just travel from the theater room> through the ducting, and into the rest of the house. I hope my experience shared here will help all of you whom will read this comment and watch this video. Thanks Gene for sharing.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
When I was younger I worked for a company that did distributed audio/video, theater design & intelligent lighting. I love watching these videos and seeing how far that area of expertise has gone. Keep it up.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
I’m pumped for this build, can’t wait to hear your impressions of the final result! Low noise floor has a HUGE impact on fidelity. Hope to some day have the means to do something similar.
@@bobs8005 I’m able to do most the work myself so I can save a lot. But yes it will be 100% dedicated room. The wife and I watch everything on our current setup in the basement. The only difference will be the ceiling height, and main floor
@@Tearial311 AVS forum, my dude. LOTS of examples. Standard over there is decoupled studs (not staggered - but staggered is great), clips and channels, double drywall/ green glue and acoustic caulk. Tons of time involved, but excellent result.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Very nice Gene Fortunately the double stud approach, the resilient channel/clips, and the MLV, as well as the insulation within the double stud walls ... will all contribute somewhat to further the LF damping/trapping. Incorporate as much LF damping as you can mustet structurally, then add as needed. As very few rooms, even high performance spaces, have adequate LF decay times. However, when a well executed space with ample bass trapping does exhibit good decay times... there's nothing like it! High definition bass clarity ... in spades. Thanks for the content, Best of luck
Yes. Have done room within a room, staggered studs. 2 layers of 16mm MDF on the outside walls with green glue. 16mm mdf on inside walls and 10mm drywall with green glue. Resilient mounts on ceiling. Green glue sealant in every join and crack. Using MDF on the walls i can put a screw in anywhere to hang speakers, tv mount, projector all without needing to hit a stud.
Yes, tho I did consider room within a room and even staggered studs, I did not want to lose 8 to 12 extra inches so I went with IB-1 sound clips and hat channels with double 5/8" drywall with green glue for the ceiling and walls. My dedicated theater room has a floating floor with serena mat (rubber type mat) with double plywood with green glue in between. The rear wall has plywood under for the 1st layer to mount things on it so I wouldn't have issues mounting things so I wouldn't hit any studs also adding additional mass. My 2 solid core doors are sealed with header and jamb gasketing and each has an automatic door bottoms. All seams sealed with 60 yr old caulk and acoustic caulk as well. If i were do redo a few things would be to use thicker 1 3/4" doors to use my heavier auto door bottoms I bought by mistake instead of the 1 3/8" thick door. Most sound is isolated tho low bass is hard to contain but the bass that does come thru doesn't travel pass my network room that is next to the theater room. I believe my walls are supposed to give a STC rating of about 67. I also am using a Mini Split for the heating and air, the room being almost air tight, I decided to have 2 powered ducts supplying air and pushing air out using big sealed boxes in the attic with ducts that have been curved in the boxes to help with the sound isolation.
Great design! Mine is very similar, except for the floating floor. Did you add the floating floor because you're on a concrete slab or 2nd level? Also one big thing missed in this thread is Power. Which is not specifically discussing isolation, but a big factor in design. Did you run any dedicated 20 Amp circuits to the AV closet/room? I have 4 plus an extra 30 amp. I also added a dedicated 4 AWG ground going 6 feet into the earth.
@@keithspacek1805 I added a floating floor because soundproofingcompany did recommend it tho I am on a raised foundation but I didn't mind adding more isolation. Power wise, I have 3 dedicated 20 amp lines to the theater room, 1 for front (subwoofers), 2nd for lights, 3rd for general outlets. I also have 2 dedicated 20 amp lines in the equipment closet that is outside the room. I doubt you will need a 30 amp but why not.. LOL.. my 220v 40amp line is outside in the garage.
more videos on ideal solutions for sound isolation of a dedicated home theater room would be great. especially for those who have the option to build a separate room from the house. Also, Anthony grimani recommends building a "pit" in the floor at the front side of the room to act as a base trap. This pretty much can only be done during the construction phase of the room. wondering what your thoughts are on this topic and if its worth it or not. thanks
Nice video! It seems to me as though at least some of the most often stated goals and strategies for isolation may at least appear to be opposed to those of a well designed and treated listening room or theater on the inside, so I'll be interested in future vids to see where and how you guys decide to draw the line between the two! I'm planning a build myself.
Just bought a new house that has a 25x25 basement. No windows. I'm putting carpet down and taking down the woodpannel that goes from the floor halfway up the wall to have drywall only. So far I have 2 prime Pinnacle 1 ultra center and 2 prime elevation and 2 sb3000 with denon 8500h :) plan on getting 2 more prime elevation for atmos and 2 more prime pinnacle for my rears. I will be wiring for side surrounds and 2 extra hight speakers. Any tips on where to start with isolation would be greatly appreciated!
Loved the vid. I built my theatre room 15 years ago amd basically did all of that even though some wasn't available. I have isolating hanging pods hanging from hat-track with isolating rubber on each end. Everywhere the hat tracknom side wall or ceiling is connected to a stud, tool a piece of. 1/2" thick rubber amd placed. It between any physical connection. Exterior steel, insulated doors with the bottom sill intacf for a complete seal. Surrounded all. Electrical box with the rubber amd taped every one to keep it sealed. Wrapped the ductwork in the sealing with foil insulation and rubber glued to all. 2 sides with seams caulked. I also have a insulated foam plug I can put on the air vent in the sealing for more sound and vibration control. If I recall, I got my SCT up to 68 based on the calculations at the time. The most noticible is the vibration isolation where the walls are shaking inside but you cannot tell outside. I love doing the outside door close test with people where I have Saving Private Ryan storing the beach screen turned up alot and stand outside the door, then I close the door and you can barely hear it. I sure wish RUclips was around back then, I think I spent 2 months researching and am extra month just on installation, all in the middle of the room. My wife thought it was a waste of time but is now very happy I did it.
Do you know if the wall blocker has a higher STC than using resilient channel and 2 5/8" drywall with green glue? Seems like the wall blocker is a much cheeper solution in both parts and labor.
Instead of using foam sound deadening panels, can you use rockwool, which would be less flammable? Famous nightclub fires that kills people often list the culprit as exposed flammable foam.
I only ever knew of one person (and only second hand from someone I knew that told me about him) that ever built a home around his audio system. This was back in the 90s and from what this guy told me about his friend, he spared no expense making his home as acoustically "perfect" as possible using various room treatments, made sure the dimensions were just right for the speakers he was using, and it costed him about $40,000 on top of the cost of building the house to get the acoustics just right for that house and his specialized listening room. For most people this sort of dedication for audio quality is a bit overkill and far too expensive for most people to bother with.
@@bobs8005 if you have the spare money funds then why not if audio is your hobby enjoyment 🎶 Life's too short to have regrets near the end. You don't live forever and can be buried in the ground at any time ⚰️ Live life to the max do what makes you feel happy. Some people it's going for a walk or the gym, others it's designing a great acoustic music/cinema room 🎬
I haven't watched this, but have been in the recording business for almost 50-years, building MULTIPLE studios and post-production suites. Your comment "These tips are for pre-construction phase and cannot be done after the drywall is already up" is TOTALLY incorrect, as the best way to STOP transmission through walls is with air space between wall systems, and with multiple systems and differing densities. In other words, if your sheetrock is already up, you build a secondary wall system within the original structure, taking care NOT to have physical connections, and change up the density of the new sheetrock from the original as each thickness has its own resonant frequency based on its thickness. To make it simpler, use ½" rock on the inside of a wall frame and ¾" on the outer system.... or vice versa. Air space between the two walls systems is ESSENTIAL, as this tends to be the best way to diminish the transfer between systems. Also, if you really want to isolate, try cutting the floor slab between the two wall systems severing the connection for those sub-woofer frequencies to transfer.
I'm thinking of building a bit of a room out in the backyard build it out of plexiglass it down about a foot and a half to 2 ft down and make sure from the town or city. that people live in make sure you get permits for digging so you don't cut into a power line or gas line or whichever,
Was thinking of moving into the basement. My front stage would be up against a concrete wall. The right side would be concrete as well. That would leave just the back and left open. I don't like the fact I'm so far away though. so decisions ....
You want rockwool in the ceiling not just for Great sound isolation but for heat treatment and cold treatment assuming you're putting that in. Don't forget to cap the sockets in the wall as well
Of the many Dedicated Home Theater rooms I've designed and installed, the #1 recommendation is to install an Exterior Door & frame as the interior door to the Theater. Basically it's a gasketed seal so almost NO sound is transmitted through the house. I can't tell you how many times people spend thousands of $$$$ to treat the room to isolate the sound within the room; just to have a traditional interior door where the sound from the theater room just shoots under and around the door and into the rest of the house. Of course we still have room treatments within the room, staggered studs, and many similar points as mentioned in this video. Oh, and also a Mini-split or separate HVAC system for the theater room. Once again, if the HVAC is part of the "house" system, sound will just travel from the theater room> through the ducting, and into the rest of the house. I hope my experience shared here will help all of you whom will read this comment and watch this video. Thanks Gene for sharing.
Exactly what I did. Stubbed my toe entering a few times early on but best decision I ever made
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Thanks 🙏 for sharing… good info
When I was younger I worked for a company that did distributed audio/video, theater design & intelligent lighting. I love watching these videos and seeing how far that area of expertise has gone. Keep it up.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
I’m pumped for this build, can’t wait to hear your impressions of the final result! Low noise floor has a HUGE impact on fidelity. Hope to some day have the means to do something similar.
This will be a HUGE help when I build my house next year
You’re going to put the extra $20-30k in to do this?
@@bobs8005 I’m able to do most the work myself so I can save a lot. But yes it will be 100% dedicated room. The wife and I watch everything on our current setup in the basement. The only difference will be the ceiling height, and main floor
@@Tearial311 AVS forum, my dude. LOTS of examples.
Standard over there is decoupled studs (not staggered - but staggered is great), clips and channels, double drywall/ green glue and acoustic caulk. Tons of time involved, but excellent result.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Very nice Gene
Fortunately the double stud approach, the resilient channel/clips, and the MLV, as well as the insulation within the double stud walls ... will all contribute somewhat to further the LF damping/trapping.
Incorporate as much LF damping as you can mustet structurally, then add as needed. As very few rooms, even high performance spaces, have adequate LF decay times.
However, when a well executed space with ample bass trapping
does exhibit good decay times... there's nothing like it!
High definition bass clarity ... in spades.
Thanks for the content,
Best of luck
Gene good to see you’re doing well - you’re my #1 AV guy since day 1.
Really appreciate the video, great points and great explanation!!
Is your home theater room sound isolated? Tell us what you did or what you're planning on doing if you're building a dedicated theater room.
Yes. Have done room within a room, staggered studs. 2 layers of 16mm MDF on the outside walls with green glue. 16mm mdf on inside walls and 10mm drywall with green glue. Resilient mounts on ceiling. Green glue sealant in every join and crack. Using MDF on the walls i can put a screw in anywhere to hang speakers, tv mount, projector all without needing to hit a stud.
Yes, tho I did consider room within a room and even staggered studs, I did not want to lose 8 to 12 extra inches so I went with IB-1 sound clips and hat channels with double 5/8" drywall with green glue for the ceiling and walls. My dedicated theater room has a floating floor with serena mat (rubber type mat) with double plywood with green glue in between. The rear wall has plywood under for the 1st layer to mount things on it so I wouldn't have issues mounting things so I wouldn't hit any studs also adding additional mass. My 2 solid core doors are sealed with header and jamb gasketing and each has an automatic door bottoms. All seams sealed with 60 yr old caulk and acoustic caulk as well. If i were do redo a few things would be to use thicker 1 3/4" doors to use my heavier auto door bottoms I bought by mistake instead of the 1 3/8" thick door. Most sound is isolated tho low bass is hard to contain but the bass that does come thru doesn't travel pass my network room that is next to the theater room. I believe my walls are supposed to give a STC rating of about 67. I also am using a Mini Split for the heating and air, the room being almost air tight, I decided to have 2 powered ducts supplying air and pushing air out using big sealed boxes in the attic with ducts that have been curved in the boxes to help with the sound isolation.
Great design! Mine is very similar, except for the floating floor. Did you add the floating floor because you're on a concrete slab or 2nd level? Also one big thing missed in this thread is Power. Which is not specifically discussing isolation, but a big factor in design. Did you run any dedicated 20 Amp circuits to the AV closet/room? I have 4 plus an extra 30 amp. I also added a dedicated 4 AWG ground going 6 feet into the earth.
@@keithspacek1805 no floating floor and yes we have a video in the AH SmartHome Playlist that discusses power.
@@keithspacek1805 I added a floating floor because soundproofingcompany did recommend it tho I am on a raised foundation but I didn't mind adding more isolation. Power wise, I have 3 dedicated 20 amp lines to the theater room, 1 for front (subwoofers), 2nd for lights, 3rd for general outlets. I also have 2 dedicated 20 amp lines in the equipment closet that is outside the room. I doubt you will need a 30 amp but why not.. LOL.. my 220v 40amp line is outside in the garage.
Very exciting, big thumbs up! I'm defiantly taking notes for my build of arcade / theater.
This could improve my WAF immensely...
more videos on ideal solutions for sound isolation of a dedicated home theater room would be great. especially for those who have the option to build a separate room from the house. Also, Anthony grimani recommends building a "pit" in the floor at the front side of the room to act as a base trap. This pretty much can only be done during the construction phase of the room. wondering what your thoughts are on this topic and if its worth it or not. thanks
Nice video! It seems to me as though at least some of the most often stated goals and strategies for isolation may at least appear to be opposed to those of a well designed and treated listening room or theater on the inside, so I'll be interested in future vids to see where and how you guys decide to draw the line between the two! I'm planning a build myself.
Lower noise floor to increase dynamic range. Never thought about that benefit of sound proofing.
A lot of information here, I would love more in depth discussion of this.
Man I needed this video !!!
It looks like a lot of work on this project of yours very well thought of Gene ..
How did it turn out, did you guys take the readings afterwards?
Just bought a new house that has a 25x25 basement. No windows. I'm putting carpet down and taking down the woodpannel that goes from the floor halfway up the wall to have drywall only. So far I have 2 prime Pinnacle 1 ultra center and 2 prime elevation and 2 sb3000 with denon 8500h :) plan on getting 2 more prime elevation for atmos and 2 more prime pinnacle for my rears. I will be wiring for side surrounds and 2 extra hight speakers. Any tips on where to start with isolation would be greatly appreciated!
Loved the vid. I built my theatre room 15 years ago amd basically did all of that even though some wasn't available. I have isolating hanging pods hanging from hat-track with isolating rubber on each end. Everywhere the hat tracknom side wall or ceiling is connected to a stud, tool a piece of. 1/2" thick rubber amd placed. It between any physical connection. Exterior steel, insulated doors with the bottom sill intacf for a complete seal. Surrounded all. Electrical box with the rubber amd taped every one to keep it sealed. Wrapped the ductwork in the sealing with foil insulation and rubber glued to all. 2 sides with seams caulked. I also have a insulated foam plug I can put on the air vent in the sealing for more sound and vibration control. If I recall, I got my SCT up to 68 based on the calculations at the time. The most noticible is the vibration isolation where the walls are shaking inside but you cannot tell outside. I love doing the outside door close test with people where I have Saving Private Ryan storing the beach screen turned up alot and stand outside the door, then I close the door and you can barely hear it. I sure wish RUclips was around back then, I think I spent 2 months researching and am extra month just on installation, all in the middle of the room. My wife thought it was a waste of time but is now very happy I did it.
Great stuff Gene! Curious why you guys went with MLV over Green Glue Compound between double drywall?
The builder wouldn't let me do double drywall.
@@Audioholics Ahh that makes sense then. Thanks! Can't wait to see the finished product!
Do you know if the wall blocker has a higher STC than using resilient channel and 2 5/8" drywall with green glue? Seems like the wall blocker is a much cheeper solution in both parts and labor.
I have the same question, but my understanding was that green glue is cheaper than MLV.
Instead of using foam sound deadening panels, can you use rockwool, which would be less flammable? Famous nightclub fires that kills people often list the culprit as exposed flammable foam.
I only ever knew of one person (and only second hand from someone I knew that told me about him) that ever built a home around his audio system. This was back in the 90s and from what this guy told me about his friend, he spared no expense making his home as acoustically "perfect" as possible using various room treatments, made sure the dimensions were just right for the speakers he was using, and it costed him about $40,000 on top of the cost of building the house to get the acoustics just right for that house and his specialized listening room. For most people this sort of dedication for audio quality is a bit overkill and far too expensive for most people to bother with.
It’s complete overkill
@@bobs8005 if you have the spare money funds then why not if audio is your hobby enjoyment 🎶
Life's too short to have regrets near the end. You don't live forever and can be buried in the ground at any time ⚰️
Live life to the max do what makes you feel happy. Some people it's going for a walk or the gym, others it's designing a great acoustic music/cinema room 🎬
Same as MLV: double 1/2" DW with green glue in between.
I'm wondering that as well.
Not if the builder doesn't give you that as an option.
@@Audioholics just do it when the builder isn’t there it’s your house
This room is going to slam!!
I haven't watched this, but have been in the recording business for almost 50-years, building MULTIPLE studios and post-production suites. Your comment "These tips are for pre-construction phase and cannot be done after the drywall is already up" is TOTALLY incorrect, as the best way to STOP transmission through walls is with air space between wall systems, and with multiple systems and differing densities. In other words, if your sheetrock is already up, you build a secondary wall system within the original structure, taking care NOT to have physical connections, and change up the density of the new sheetrock from the original as each thickness has its own resonant frequency based on its thickness. To make it simpler, use ½" rock on the inside of a wall frame and ¾" on the outer system.... or vice versa. Air space between the two walls systems is ESSENTIAL, as this tends to be the best way to diminish the transfer between systems. Also, if you really want to isolate, try cutting the floor slab between the two wall systems severing the connection for those sub-woofer frequencies to transfer.
I'm thinking of building a bit of a room out in the backyard build it out of plexiglass it down about a foot and a half to 2 ft down and make sure from the town or city. that people live in make sure you get permits for digging so you don't cut into a power line or gas line or whichever,
you’ll get rid of these issues mentioned here by going with headphones...
Only closed ear though.... 😉
Was thinking of moving into the basement. My front stage would be up against a concrete wall. The right side would be concrete as well. That would leave just the back and left open. I don't like the fact I'm so far away though. so decisions ....
You are the Henry Rollins of Home Theater and sound. 👍
What thickness is the MLV ?
You want rockwool in the ceiling not just for Great sound isolation but for heat treatment and cold treatment assuming you're putting that in.
Don't forget to cap the sockets in the wall as well
Hey, Gene, I'll be looking for an invitation from you to experience your media room when it's completed! I'll bring the concessions!!! :-P 👍
where can u find the results video for this? @audioholics