FIXING THIS OLD BOAT!! Teak, rigging, and steering repairs - EP22 Ran-day
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2024
- Get 5% OFF Your Order @ TotalBoat - www.totalboat.com/yachthunters
TotalBoat Products Used ==========
Thixo -- Flexible Epoxy: www.totalboat.com/products/th...
Thixo Wood Color: www.totalboat.com/products/th...
Wood Sealer: www.totalboat.com/products/wo...
TotalSeal Elastomeric Sealant: www.totalboat.com/products/se...
Info on Edson products and steering systems: www.edsonmarine.com/
============== Products I swear by (these are affiliate links)
My go-to for a headlamp - amzn.to/49vhITt
Knee pads - worth the jokes -- amzn.to/3TarZim
Amazing shoes for water(like Crocs but not as ugly): amzn.to/3QEYJhT
=======Merch============
www.etsy.com/shop/YachtHunters
============== Support the channel ==============
Like what we're doing & want to help??
Become a Patreon sponsor and get access to early previews, extra content, and more: / yachthunters
----------Segments ---------
00:00 Intro & recap
01:26 Teak
02:47 Teak Stripping
07:48 Backstay rigging fix
10:57 Bilge paint the steering area
11:47 Surprise quadrant
15:21 varnish removal & teak fixes
20:23 wood sealer
23:30 The final sealed wood 
Спорт
![ian - Fit Check (Feat. VonOff1700) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sDGWDBg45Dw/mqdefault.jpg)
DO NOT VARNISH - Use "Danish Teak Sealer" from TotalBoat for all the exterior trim. For the door first use penetrating epoxy (several coats) then use ToralBoat Halcyon Water Based Marine Varnish (4+ coats).
The Teak Sealer adds the yellow honey color back to the teakwood. THE BEST PART is that this never peals and never needs sanding. All you need do is apply a refresh coat spring summer and fall.
Hands down without a DOUBT; varnish-varnish-varnish!!!
Nice work on the teak. The teak all varnished and looking good is the first thing people see on any boat. Well worth the time and expense.
Teak is like the jewelry of the boat. Polish it up and it really adds to the boat's appearance. Very nice work Randall. Have a great weekend.
Randall, I have to agree that honey color sealant looks absolutely yummy. On all of our family's sailboats, we had 1/2 varnished, 1/2 teak oil on ours and no teak decks. Way too hot in FL. The painting of the bilge is making her look like/feel a new happy boat again. She is Loved💌 Happy Sailing ⛵.
Hey Randay, props again to you amigo, you’re content is the perfect blend of information at an absorbent pace, with some kick ass musical accompaniment and great cinematography. Christian Williams would be like a proud father! Attaboy!
Hey thanks very much!! I think Christian is outstanding so I’m flattered. Much appreciated!! 👍👍
@@YachtHunters no problem 😉, I swear Christians commentary is his version of scatting to his jazz backing tracks, I don’t know what he is up to recently but an interview or even a day sail between him and you would be very cool 😎.
Your boat was one of my favorites on the channel when it was first shown. The classic looks and the layout is amazing and the teak really makes it look great.. the people who aren't interested in varnished teak are the ones who are interested in painting everything rather than having chrome or shiny things that require attention from time to time.. with that being said I'm one of those ocd people who would have pulled your aluminum hatches off and polished them to look like stainless steel and covered them with some 4k clearcoat.. I enjoy keeping the things i own nice and clean
If you live close to the boat I'd say definitely worth the varnish. If you don't, and it takes time away from sailing I'd say leave it bare. Nice job btw!
As a lazy sailer I let my teak weather, although I do oil it. I am always envious of those who take the time to varnish their teak. I say varnish !
CT 47 here...all my exterior teak is natural gray. I admire other people's varnished teak.
Perfect timing!
Absolutely it’s worth varnishing the toe rail. I’ll be Heading up to my boat this week to strip the varnish on my toe rail.
Going old school, 8-10 coats of Epifanes.
Cheers.
Before going the varnish route: you might check out SEMCO penetrating oil! You do not need to sand between applications and the teak remains looking like freshly sanded teak! I think it lookas gorgeous - and more time for sailing!
Mate Randay, your yacht is starting to look sweet as , due to your hard work, totally wicked. Bravo
Keep up the great work, Randall!
Varnish will blister somewhere.
Allow me to suggest:
Hesitate on varnishing toe rail. Keep it well oiled/sealed, cleaned regularly.
Focus varnish on door and flat square surface pieces.
In places where water can get under wood, it will. And this causes blisters. The varnish can block water on top, but loses when it’s below. I see cleats screwed into your toe rail and too many other ways in. Winch blocks concern me too. I know this isn’t the popular viewpoint. Varnish looks GREAT for sure.
That new quadrant is legit! Well done Dave / Edson!
it's so shiny!! hopefully, I'll be getting some tarnish on it soon enough ;)
You could "tent" parts of the boat as you go, keeping the tree erm off of it. In my spare time, I like to work with wood and enjoy the sanding as well. That's when the wood comes alive, it gives you that idea of what your going to look at as long as you have it...
Yes! It's worth it.
Life has no guarantees but that isn't going to keep me from offering some unsolicited advice (for a change lol):
SAND. With expensive paper, minimize mechanical involvement, never skip grits. For fuzz removal, a quick plastic sealer coat will allow you to knock off the chaff. Hand sanding is the bomb.
SEAL. Smith's CPES. There is no substitute, except for System 3 S1. Sand after the smell goes away.
Fill checks etc with 405.
STAIN. Brown Mahoghany Filler Stain like 7560. Most varnishers skip this step, I sometimes do.
Epoxy sealers can make very hard woods less stainable. Multiple sessions, until everything is the same color.
Build with Epifanes.
Finish coat(s) with Cetol (clear) Gloss. Using this will add longevity like nothing else. I don't build with it bc it's relatively slow to cure.
Good thing I'm not opiniated. This is just what I know works well, it is certainly not the only way. Awlgrip? Sure, but there's a Lot of peripheral stuff involved, can get complicated if you're not a professional. I am not a professional either when it comes to varnishing.
Thank You Randy
All the Best
Marty
PS Thixo you pretty much read my mind. I actually use 404 bc I want to color it myself, what i described , the 405 is what a professional I am speaking for uses, because it's already colored, saves time. Am I a boatbuilder? No. Boatbuilders "git 'er done". If you want proof then consider that I mostly use 209 with my 404. Yes, it takes longer to dry but I never sand until my epoxy is cured, and that means the third day, whether we are using 205, 206 or 209. Sanding sooner seems a tremendous waste of sandpaper. Anyway, what I'm getting at is that thixo would be great for a quick fix on the web floor fwd the rudder post.
The epoxy treatment on the door made all the difference, nice!
Nice job RanDay!!! Love watching the progress. That Teak looks beautiful! Also the little wins ….. painting the bilge those details are impressive!
Thanks David!
Wow Can’t believe how much you get done!
My theory for ROBIN is to split the difference w/the teak.
Unprotected, labor-intensive teak will get stripped and let weather (massive toe-rail; eyebrow rails, deck handholds). All the cockpit teak will get stripped & varnished. The partial protection from dodger & bimini should drastically cut my varnish workload, while giving enough well-finished teak to enjoy.
Thankfully I did find the stripping and varnish (as a verb) satisfying & even meditative.
Replacing the stantion bolt w/hefty eye bolt was fricken brilliant! I never woulda thought of that; but it’s in my toolbox now 👍
Cheers ⛵️😎
Looking good Randall. The boat is coming along nicely. Keep the good stuff coming.
9 coats I believe, is the magic number. Great job!
I’ve heard even 11 from a Herreshoff restoration guru… might take a lot of patience!!!
@@YachtHunters You may want to consider using Total Boat "Lust" varnish from Jamestown Distributors. You can apply additional coats an hour apart. Start at one end of the boat and finish the first coat at the other end of the boat, In the time it takes you to do that (over an hour), you can probably go back and apply a second coat and continue repeating as time permits. I was able to do 5 coats of varnish on my brightwork in one day. Came back the second day and applied the remaining 4 coats. The finish came out amazing. Lust made short work of the varnishing job.
10 coats is the norm!
Randy, I made a middle of the road decision. I have varnished everything the deck except the toerail. In my experience the toerail takes the most time and effort to refinish and the most effort to keep in shape during the season. For the toerail I decided to use Semco teak sealer. It looks great and it’s so much less work. I recommend it.
Teak on a boat is like jewelry on a woman whether it be old or new when it shines and sparkles in the sun men come to see . And Ran - day thanks for not stripping all the stains from the teak .It's not how old one is it's how well she carries it .And knowing you when you are done it won't be a re anything it will be a transformation . Mat your sails always be full and your bilge be dry .TA TA ,toodaloo and see you on your next post . P.S. smile it's another good day. 😊🙃😄
Wow that is a nice Quadrant. Thanks Dave.
RanDay when I get discouraged on my refit I take comfort in knowing you are suffering 1,000 miles north of me. Look where Captain Q has taken us.
Love the teak restoration job, been there too. Hey, you can use oxalic acid mixed with water to help remove the water stains in the teak. I have been doing that for years and works great. It may take 2-3 applications for the old deep staining, and let it fully dry and a light sanding between applications.
Keep up the good work, and remember to ride your bike too!
Well done video, all topics were interesting. The boat is looking better and better. Regard that door, perhaps adding a fillet of wood, triangle cross section, at wood ledges would prevent water intrusion.
Good stuff, I have three weeks till I splash my boat. Cleaned my unvarnished teak, was wondering what to do with it, some good tips here. Getting her ready for the water has been a lot of work but I'm loving every minute of it, so I get your Zen comment.
We used sickens on our teak. Looks great and holds up well. Miss the captain
Watching YOU sand & do brush work is MY zen
RanDay, your doing a great job. Like your DIY did not know you had it in you. You always held the camera with some voice overs or guestions,answers. Like where your bringing your channel. Keep it up you will be done in no time. Get her sail ready, then go have some fun, then come back to the work. No one wants you to burn out on all work.
Excellent work. Really nice to see that woodwork looking ship shape.
Nigel Calder I don't know if he still does it but he helped another channel do a total overhaul of the electrical systems. It was pretty impressive and I suppose a pretty penny.
Agree about not varnishing teak. I use TeakGuard on my Cheoy Lee Bermuda 30, and it looks great. No more flaking! It's water based and calls for annual reapplication because it does begin fading away over time.
I think the varnish matters. How the boat looks has an effect on your appreciation for it. If you put in the work yourself, I think it would add another facet of connection with the boat.
Well said. I think this process allowed me to discover some more details where the real was coming apart… just another example of really digging in to get to know every detail. Cheers Paul!
Love all your videos ❤ I do miss The Captain, Captain Q , hope all is well.
Timely! I've got to start on the bright work next week - weather (finally) permitting
Also maybe add in a corrosion inhibitor between the stainless screws and brass quadrant?
gotta varnish teak, as much as I hate the process. It looks so nice when completed
Naked oiled teak looks great and is easy to maintain.
"Teak attrition". Good one. :)
Use two coats of clear epoxy sanding in between coats then Two coats of varnish . Saves time and many coats of varnish. Boatworks today has videos on it.
As GREAT as your teak has turned out, Don’t you wish you had more???🤣🫠❤️jk looking beautiful ❤
When possible, remove teak items before de-varnishing. Moving that door to the cabin roof or a workbench can cut the hours in half. I think your boat is coming along well. I especially like your engine room remodel.
Varnish is beautiful but a never-ending job.
Great job man. Love the way are getting each job done with common sence approach. She will be better than new. Grear Video.
Ran-day, don’t know how current this videos are but Total Boat has a new water based varnish. Well it not a pretty as regular varnish it is very easy to put on with no sanding in between coats. I am just bad at varnish work and that stuff works great for me. I recommend it.
Sanding teak is instant gratification that’s why it’s fun
It is!! Thanks JS!
Getting there and looking good. Cheers from landlocked Edmonton Alberta.
Great job Randay! I commend your perseverance.😁
Unfortunately it is the teak with varnish that is what makes a good boat into a great looking boat. Keep up the great and sizable work!
Nice work. I just finished applying my topsides varnish for the 2024 season. Almost ready to launch here in Maine.
Thanks for keeping me motivated on my project 🙂
that makes me happy to hear that.... you can do it (and probably faster than I can!) cheers and best of luck with your project
beautiful randy! im gonna put a ⭐️ on your chart
Great Job Ran-day!
Nice Job Randall! I realy appreciate this video (and all the others) since I am also going to do the finish on the teak of my sailboat. Realy helpfull.
Well done Randell👍🏻
thanks BlueBell!! :)
Coming along beautifully!
Varnish will lift at every point that even the smallest bit of water leaks in anywhere.
Stripping all the varnish and oiling the teak will allow these areas to dry out while you find and fix them all, where the teak shows moisture.
Afterwards, returning to a sealed varnish will be uniformed and protect the teak better than oil.
Varnish for the win!
Doing my varnish right now. Hinckley SW50 (varnish farm). Looks amazing.
Varnish for SURE!!!!
You did a great job removing the varnish but I did notice you still had staining on the door, which I would have used the teak brightener to get rid of a staining before Sealing
Labor of love, but well worth it.👏👏
Thanks so much for sharing all of this. And your process in managing so many (parts) to your "priority" list. Also great to know that Walter has been along, Congratulations and best wishes for your plans. I appreciate the quality of this presentation. Editing and narration. It's in the details! Just great. Thank you! 〰✨👍✨〰
I have the ADHD bug as well. When things get tough and I get tired, ADHD goes away and I just finish it.😊
I’m in the varnish camp - with that beautiful green hull it’s a must!
Of course Varnish...just don't spaz when it needs refinishing! Schedules, slow and steady!
Ran-day! So much work to strip/sand/vacuum/prep/varnish wood you're trying to preserve carefully. Might be easier to remove the cleats and various attachments when you do the finish coats of varnish, than trying to go around everything. Looking good!
I was tasked to remove all thee flooring in a Rhodes 19, remove the old varnish and refinish when I (think) was 15. It was a major task and I completely understand your approach. Well done!
Yay Randay so good to see you 👍🇬🇧
Most excellent. Keep up the good work!
Great work RanDay!! Love the boat repair videos and that steering quadrant is beautiful as well as all of your teak work!!
Great work! Looking good!
My advice , get rid of as much external wood as possible , it'll be a never ending endeavor.
You like the teak maintenance , maybe for the first 2 times.
Best is to not use varnish , wood "works" and will create gaps where water can get in , my advice , use teak oil , easy to apply , protects and moves with the wood.
it's always good to have friends ;).. well done!... and I am still in love with the layout of your boat!
7⭐ Well done Mr. Randall, fantastic 👌
Great job
All sanding should be done with a block, like when hull sides are sanded with a torture board. It is the professional way Ive seen pros able to get same effect with DA type sander, and seen first timers gouge out the wood with the same tool.
That aft cockpit deck is SO cool!
nice work!
On the quadrant, you could have just cut an oval hole in that floor timber. You wouldn't weaken anything, just lighten things up a bit.
Varnished teak looks great.... but, wow, it's labor intensive. The teak on the toe rail of our Gulfstar 41 is so thin that it needs hyper care it needs protecting!!!
RANNDAYYY
I admire your patience. Looks great!
Thanks very much!!
Just think how much easier it would have been to put that door on a bench to scrape it, and fix it,and refinish. My knees hurt just watching
Hopefully you can find a can of ACF-50 anti-corrosion spray. I spray every electrical connection and battery posts.. Really sticky and lasts forever.
honestly i think i like teak more than i like boats. you don’t want to be around me when i see someone paint wood
Make sure to stock up on the Grey Poupon.
What needs to be done so you can sail the boat?
Someone once told me that if the boat floats then you can fix what you need to as you go sailing. The important thing is that you are able to sail. IMO, sailing, standing and running rigging, are more important than bright work and varnish. But, after watching the video, that does not mean a thing.
I imagine you are in contact with Captain Q and he is giving you his opinion. How is he doing? and what does he think of your progress?
Personally I’d have not varnished. Living in the damp uk we tend to oil real rather than varnish. But it looks good. Hope it lasts. Hope Capn Q is doing well.
Just think, in five years you can strip it all down again, and that after five years of being very careful and worried about every person's shoes, lines running across a railing. Bare teak is soooo much better.
Better to have a few small showcase varnished teak sections.
Don't even get me started on how much better for the environment bare teak is. Except that we cut all the trees!
oxalic acid from your neighborhood drug store mixed to saturation with hot water will restore the colour of that grey teak. apply while the water is hot. rinse well. I lived in a cedar house and for years used it to restore faded cedar.
Raw teak looks better and stay better. And easier to maintain. Whichever you choose, it’s your boat
Hi Randy. I was wondering if you put a large washer under the new eye bolts, to spread the load?
I PLAN TO OIL THE WOOD ON MY BOAT WHEN I GET IT . OF COURSE SANDING LIGHTLY AS NEEDED BEFORE HAND . WHAT DO YOU THINK ? VARNISH OR PAINT & WHY .
I drool over all the teak on boats like the Hans Christian, but I wouldn't want to keep it up, and I am a woodworker.
My first job was refinishing woodies. It's fun the first time, tolerable the second,,,, cleaner and sealer only from then on.... I'd rather sail than sand.
spoted it right away
Could you modify the bulkhead instead and reinforce a small linaer piece just big enough for it to maneuver?
Yes varnish
agreed 👍