For anyone who has a Ford Ranger from this time period.. If you have the original ECU (engine computer) and have never taken it out, it probably has leaky / burned electrolytic capacitors on the mother board. Take it out, and replace the Caps in it. Tis a quick de-soldering job, and'll cost around a dollar in parts.. _(unless you have to jumper some damaged traces.. and even that's not too bad)_ There are 3-5 of them, and (afaik) they run the 5-volt references that your engine computer uses to regulate several components.. So if you get trouble codes, telling you that there's a problem that looks like the IAC valve, or says there's something wrong with the MAF sensor, Coolant temp sensor, air intake temp sensor, TPS sensor, etc.. _All at the same time,_ it's probably those caps, and not those components. Mine went back to running perfectly fine after. No engine light, nothing.
You might also have a fishy smell, or animal urine smell in the car, that comes and goes from time to time.. That's typically what electrolytic capacitors smell like when they're leaky.
Thank you! I will keep that in mind. If I still had that pickup I would pull it apart and do that. It would not surprise me if that was the issue because it kept stranding me and I felt like It got to the point where I was throwing parts at it. Thank you!
@@rowdenscarranch9561 Yeah, I assume it's a pretty consistent problem. I only bought a new MAF sensor and purge valve, before checking the computer. All 3 capacitors were bad. One burned off a prong, so apparently wasn't functional. Another was loose, so probably wiggled in and out of making contact. And the other was intact, but had leaked and burned several times. You just match the UF ratings, and you can get ones with a higher voltage rating from DigiKey. They're literally under .50 cents a piece, for the highest quality ones you can buy. Mine would often cut off at a stop, (or backing up) sometimes surged and sputtered, randomly lost power on the highway, and always acted like there was a massive vacuum leak. It'd kick into "limp mode", and be somewhat functional, but not accelerate properly, etc.. Rinse and repeat. (I finally pulled the computer, when I was tapping on the ECU when it was acting nuts, and the fuel pump stopped priming before starting.. So wouldn't start at all) Once those were replaced, all of my problems went away. Original MAF sensor went back to working perfectly too. The purge valve looked pretty rough though, so I assume it needed changed anyway.
@@blakestone8088 That's true. Should get a person that knows what they're doing if they're worried about it. But, I figured if I'd have taken it to a garage, they would've just replaced the ECU anyway. _(Re-manufactured ones start around a hundred bucks or so)_ I was a newb at soldering, so had to learn about making it stick to where I wanted. The caps were easy, but the damaged traces were a pain.. _(and snap some pics before starting, so you can see polarity on the caps)_ I had a multimeter, so I could check continuity from one end of a trace to the other, and check to make sure there was no continuity to any neighboring traces after I fixed them. At first, I used a silver trace pen, but I wasn't sure the resistance _(also checked with a multimeter)_ was low enough. _(I think it probably was when it fully dried, but I just jumpered them with wires anyway, and got pretty much zero)_ Twas a learning experience. Might've made a good RUclips video for folks that do those. Plus, you get the sense of accomplishment.
@@blakestone8088 Cool. Twas alot of trial and error on my end.. I was so surprised to see it work, and see the truck become nearly flawless, after so much chaos and no-starts.. I'd bet there were alot of Rangers junked for that reason..Since everything using voltage from those caps would be affected, alot of folks doing their own fixes might've thrown parts at them, and just gave up. I even thought about checking out junk yards for them, just because the ECU is probably the only thing _left_ wrong with alot of them.
My truck has the same problem thank you. it’s been a minute trying to figure it out wow. This makes me so happy it’s been almost a year trying different things and it would do the same shit. Thank you once again this helped me a lot!
i know this is an old video, but thanks for the tip...mine ( 94 Explorer EB 4.0 ) was racing at idle as well at around 2000 rpm's...turned out to be cracks in the folds of the intake tube where it connects to the throttle boy...two massive cracks underneath with one on top...used some flexible silicone to seal up the cracks/holes...next day i hooked it all back up, and it idled normal again...yay...i'm gonna remember your tip though should my IAC ( Idle Air Control ) go out...hope your ride is still running smooth
I wonder if the Idle Air Control Valve could be cleaned/repaired. My XLT 4.0 dies sometimes and is hard to start after. But if I turn it off like normal, it fires right up. 🤔
Sweet, you just saved me from having a mechanic diagnose my 98 Ford explorer xlt. It's doing the same exact thing. Now to order a $50 part and put it in.
Good video Buddy , My engine light has been on for over a year , took to a good repair shop , they say it never stop now and then at stop lights like it dose for me . so found no problem even plug in for tests . Now I have a idea on my 97 Ranger big v6 where it is . thank you
Hi I’m Johnny I put in recently a new idle control air valve . Usually on third and fourth gear. The truck does not want to de accelerate but it stays accelerating
Any idea why my Ranger 2006 diesel wl motor 2.5 on a colder day at startup idle for less than 30secs at 2200 rpm and drop to normal can't be good for the motor Thnks
I know the video was posted a while ago, and that yours is a manual, but in an automatic, will this make the vehicle accelerate without applying pressure to the gas pedal? My 91 decided yesterday morning to run at a bit over 3k rpm in park, and it drops down to normal when in gear, but it's almost like riding a horse that bolts and all you can do is apply the brakes.
I have a 96 ranger 5spd when I’m going down the road the speeds keep climbing with touching the gas pedal, then when I press the clutch the rpms rev and the speed starts dropping
Would this have any affect on the truck not dropping into passing gear? My ranger has 220000 miles , never changed the trans fluid, fluid is clean and does not smell, looks fresh. Tx
@@uncrustable9923 since 2001 and the fluid is clear, reddish, no grit and doesn’t smell. Also, the passing gear issue started happening after the truck had sat for around 6 months.
@@uncrustable9923 nowhere on the internet have I found an explanation for this passing gear shifting issue. Hard to believe I’m the only person on the planet who’s had this problem. Guess next thing to do is see if a scanner sees something that’s acting up.
@@weeverob well most american cars don't last past 100k without maintenance so you're lucky, the trans is probably just on its way out or it needs to be driven alot for it to come back is my assumption
All I ask is you shut off your lights so I don't have to hear that ringing 🤣 at least thats what causes mine to ding but thanks for the video very helpful
It exploded because it was plastic and got brittle with age and took out the radiator. I put on some cheep electric cooling fans but have since replaced them with a oem fan.
Good catch. I had to go back and play the video again and sure enough, no cooling fan. Didn't pick up on that the first time. I'm having a similar issue on my 94 Explorer. Hadn't run it in a few weeks, started it, and it rev'd to about 2500 rpm and stayed there. Pulled the plug on the idle air control valve, idle dropped back to where it should be but then I got a check engine light. Replaced the idle air control, truck starts and runs good but now it floods if I do an immediate restart. Looks like I'll have to start doing a little digging to find out what's going on
Readjust your idle screw at the throttle body, and bring up the idle to about 700, 800 RPMs. Your current setting is way, way too low. As for your idle itself with everything plugged in, it sounds like the cover plugs on the intake tree are leaking, or you dont even have a vacuum outlet covered. When I had to replace my bottom end a few years ago (almost a decade ago, actually), I forgot the vacuum hose off of the intake to the vacuum reservoir for the cruise control system -- and it did exactly what your Ranger is doing, which is up-revving to the point the engine can redline. Point is, you have a vacuum leak so severe that the ECM can't control it properly. I would go through and replace all of the nylon and rubber vacuum lines with the proper diameter rubber hose from any auto parts store, where they charge by the foot for vaccum line. But to diagnose this problem, follow your brake booster hose to where it pulls manifold vacuum from the engine. More than likely, you'll have a "vacuum tree" there, just like a 2.3l Lima engine.
@@bennygreene1421 : Yes and no. The Idle Air Control Valve will control idle if the truck goes through a cooling cycle, for instance. But it won't adjust the RPM more than 200 RPM higher, because on a stock truck, the fan clutch will work the engine harder at idle. However, the Idle Stop Screw, which is the screw that your throttle cable parallels, and which is near the butterfly valve for the throttle, is how I would suggest you set your baseline throttle speed. The actual baseline RPM should be at least 700 RPM, if not 800 RPM. This is the manual adjustment you can make to idle speed.
@@isaiahwelch8066 I heard from another video that on these rangers you shouldn't adjust it from the factory setting because it only acts as a stop for the butterfly instead of it bottoming out inside the valve. Idk. I definitely adjusted mine to get out of a bind but now I think I'll put it back
Thumbs down because you didn’t suggest the obvious: CLEAN THE IAC (with carb cleaner). That often solves the problem. Idling that low is bad for your oil pressure. You need to spin the oil pump!
i sprayed and gently cleaned the visible areas in my 2005 Ranger 4.0 IAC and it idles lower than it used to, still has a bit of rev hang. Also cleaned the throttle plate after taking it off the intake manifold, back of it was straight up brown, front not so bad.
For anyone who has a Ford Ranger from this time period.. If you have the original ECU (engine computer) and have never taken it out, it probably has leaky / burned electrolytic capacitors on the mother board. Take it out, and replace the Caps in it. Tis a quick de-soldering job, and'll cost around a dollar in parts.. _(unless you have to jumper some damaged traces.. and even that's not too bad)_
There are 3-5 of them, and (afaik) they run the 5-volt references that your engine computer uses to regulate several components..
So if you get trouble codes, telling you that there's a problem that looks like the IAC valve, or says there's something wrong with the MAF sensor, Coolant temp sensor, air intake temp sensor, TPS sensor, etc.. _All at the same time,_ it's probably those caps, and not those components.
Mine went back to running perfectly fine after. No engine light, nothing.
You might also have a fishy smell, or animal urine smell in the car, that comes and goes from time to time.. That's typically what electrolytic capacitors smell like when they're leaky.
Thank you! I will keep that in mind. If I still had that pickup I would pull it apart and do that. It would not surprise me if that was the issue because it kept stranding me and I felt like It got to the point where I was throwing parts at it. Thank you!
@@rowdenscarranch9561 Yeah, I assume it's a pretty consistent problem. I only bought a new MAF sensor and purge valve, before checking the computer.
All 3 capacitors were bad. One burned off a prong, so apparently wasn't functional. Another was loose, so probably wiggled in and out of making contact. And the other was intact, but had leaked and burned several times.
You just match the UF ratings, and you can get ones with a higher voltage rating from DigiKey.
They're literally under .50 cents a piece, for the highest quality ones you can buy.
Mine would often cut off at a stop, (or backing up) sometimes surged and sputtered, randomly lost power on the highway, and always acted like there was a massive vacuum leak. It'd kick into "limp mode", and be somewhat functional, but not accelerate properly, etc..
Rinse and repeat. (I finally pulled the computer, when I was tapping on the ECU when it was acting nuts, and the fuel pump stopped priming before starting.. So wouldn't start at all)
Once those were replaced, all of my problems went away. Original MAF sensor went back to working perfectly too. The purge valve looked pretty rough though, so I assume it needed changed anyway.
@@blakestone8088 That's true. Should get a person that knows what they're doing if they're worried about it. But, I figured if I'd have taken it to a garage, they would've just replaced the ECU anyway. _(Re-manufactured ones start around a hundred bucks or so)_
I was a newb at soldering, so had to learn about making it stick to where I wanted. The caps were easy, but the damaged traces were a pain.. _(and snap some pics before starting, so you can see polarity on the caps)_
I had a multimeter, so I could check continuity from one end of a trace to the other, and check to make sure there was no continuity to any neighboring traces after I fixed them.
At first, I used a silver trace pen, but I wasn't sure the resistance _(also checked with a multimeter)_ was low enough. _(I think it probably was when it fully dried, but I just jumpered them with wires anyway, and got pretty much zero)_
Twas a learning experience. Might've made a good RUclips video for folks that do those. Plus, you get the sense of accomplishment.
@@blakestone8088 Cool. Twas alot of trial and error on my end..
I was so surprised to see it work, and see the truck become nearly flawless, after so much chaos and no-starts.. I'd bet there were alot of Rangers junked for that reason..Since everything using voltage from those caps would be affected, alot of folks doing their own fixes might've thrown parts at them, and just gave up.
I even thought about checking out junk yards for them, just because the ECU is probably the only thing _left_ wrong with alot of them.
My truck has the same problem thank you. it’s been a minute trying to figure it out wow. This makes me so happy it’s been almost a year trying different things and it would do the same shit. Thank you once again this helped me a lot!
i know this is an old video, but thanks for the tip...mine ( 94 Explorer EB 4.0 ) was racing at idle as well at around 2000 rpm's...turned out to be cracks in the folds of the intake tube where it connects to the throttle boy...two massive cracks underneath with one on top...used some flexible silicone to seal up the cracks/holes...next day i hooked it all back up, and it idled normal again...yay...i'm gonna remember your tip though should my IAC ( Idle Air Control ) go out...hope your ride is still running smooth
I wonder if the Idle Air Control Valve could be cleaned/repaired.
My XLT 4.0 dies sometimes and is hard to start after. But if I turn it off like normal, it fires right up. 🤔
Sweet, you just saved me from having a mechanic diagnose my 98 Ford explorer xlt. It's doing the same exact thing. Now to order a $50 part and put it in.
Sock it in gas blow out with air hose . Good to go free next
did it work ?
Good video Buddy , My engine light has been on for over a year , took to a good repair shop , they say it never stop now and then at stop lights like it dose for me . so found no problem even plug in for tests . Now I have a idea on my 97 Ranger big v6 where it is . thank you
Hi I’m Johnny I put in recently a new idle control air valve . Usually on third and fourth gear. The truck does not want to de accelerate but it stays accelerating
The bolts are actually metric. 10mm usually
Any idea why my Ranger 2006 diesel wl motor 2.5 on a colder day at startup idle for less than 30secs at 2200 rpm and drop to normal can't be good for the motor
Thnks
I know the video was posted a while ago, and that yours is a manual, but in an automatic, will this make the vehicle accelerate without applying pressure to the gas pedal? My 91 decided yesterday morning to run at a bit over 3k rpm in park, and it drops down to normal when in gear, but it's almost like riding a horse that bolts and all you can do is apply the brakes.
my 2.3 lima looks way different.my IAC is the back on my throttle body facing my fireware
Dose this work with a 1993?
I have a 96 ranger 5spd when I’m going down the road the speeds keep climbing with touching the gas pedal, then when I press the clutch the rpms rev and the speed starts dropping
Good video. Could also turn up your throttle idle screw to stop the stall outs. ie: 800 rpm.
Thank you!
My car does that but wen I’m driving what could it be
Would this have any affect on the truck not dropping into passing gear? My ranger has 220000 miles , never changed the trans fluid, fluid is clean and does not smell, looks fresh. Tx
how long have you had it? and what does "clean" mean to you?
@@uncrustable9923 since 2001 and the fluid is clear, reddish, no grit and doesn’t smell. Also, the passing gear issue started happening after the truck had sat for around 6 months.
@@weeverob sounds like your truck needs maintenance and it needs to be driven to blow the cobwebs out
@@uncrustable9923 nowhere on the internet have I found an explanation for this passing gear shifting issue. Hard to believe I’m the only person on the planet who’s had this problem. Guess next thing to do is see if a scanner sees something that’s acting up.
@@weeverob well most american cars don't last past 100k without maintenance so you're lucky, the trans is probably just on its way out or it needs to be driven alot for it to come back is my assumption
Isn't there supposed to be a gasket for that. Mine has a gasket for it.
I noticed your battery voltage gauge doesn't work or is intermittent. This appears to be a common issue with 93 and 94 rangers. Any fix?
All I ask is you shut off your lights so I don't have to hear that ringing 🤣 at least thats what causes mine to ding but thanks for the video very helpful
Thank you! It drives me nuts but the ignition switch is broken. Thank you for the suggestion and I think I may make a video about fixing it!
@@rowdenscarranch9561 Yeah! I will look for it too.
High idle can be throttle position sensor
temporary fix ?
😂😮😅that is awesome 👌 👏 👍 it will give you a DTC of a few more more things that you have to take care of...peace
on the 2.9 and 4.0 there’s a idle screw you can actually turn up
Mine was a faulty IAC valve and I had just put it on 3 months ago a new one.
Washed the first one out with gas you'd been fine
What was the problem? did you fix it later? I have the same problem, I just replaced the IAC valve twice and the problem persist
I've heard 02 sensors can cause high idle
Got this same issue on my 88 but luckily it's just annoying since it's a manual
Thanks for the info!! Great job!
check out the cap where the EGR tube enters the intake nice i want one
Ya but does it still drink gas?
When mine failed it wouldn't idle
Thank you! Could be saving a towing charge.
Great content ! Keep it up !
Thank you. Appreciate it!
Basically it's a crackhead EGR delete... however it's still a valuable little piece of information incase someone runs into this problem on the road
I believe for us manual drivers mines an explorer sport 94 green blue striped... Is supposed to be 750 rpm after warming up at idle. I suppose lol
Brilliant. Thank you!
Where is your engine fan at looks like you would have a heating problem as well.
It exploded because it was plastic and got brittle with age and took out the radiator. I put on some cheep electric cooling fans but have since replaced them with a oem fan.
Good catch. I had to go back and play the video again and sure enough, no cooling fan. Didn't pick up on that the first time. I'm having a similar issue on my 94 Explorer. Hadn't run it in a few weeks, started it, and it rev'd to about 2500 rpm and stayed there. Pulled the plug on the idle air control valve, idle dropped back to where it should be but then I got a check engine light. Replaced the idle air control, truck starts and runs good but now it floods if I do an immediate restart. Looks like I'll have to start doing a little digging to find out what's going on
Unplug it and it’ll run fine
No it doesn’t like to run when the idle air control valve is stuck open from carbon.
Thanks ✌️
Like the shoes.
Wow, that is very dangerous. To many freaking sensors on these new vehicles.
It’s a 94? Lol
I dare you to keep on holding that clutch while it's revving by itself
Nice tip. Thanks
A smarter way to do this is use a business car to block it off, or unplug it
Smarter way is to wash it out with gas
500 is toooooo looow oh lordy ya could hear the camshaft and the 1,000 is too high would wear those brakes and clutch out
Usefull. Thx
Clean throttle plate
Readjust your idle screw at the throttle body, and bring up the idle to about 700, 800 RPMs. Your current setting is way, way too low.
As for your idle itself with everything plugged in, it sounds like the cover plugs on the intake tree are leaking, or you dont even have a vacuum outlet covered. When I had to replace my bottom end a few years ago (almost a decade ago, actually), I forgot the vacuum hose off of the intake to the vacuum reservoir for the cruise control system -- and it did exactly what your Ranger is doing, which is up-revving to the point the engine can redline.
Point is, you have a vacuum leak so severe that the ECM can't control it properly. I would go through and replace all of the nylon and rubber vacuum lines with the proper diameter rubber hose from any auto parts store, where they charge by the foot for vaccum line.
But to diagnose this problem, follow your brake booster hose to where it pulls manifold vacuum from the engine. More than likely, you'll have a "vacuum tree" there, just like a 2.3l Lima engine.
So you can adjust your idle and it's not computer controlled?
@@bennygreene1421 : Yes and no. The Idle Air Control Valve will control idle if the truck goes through a cooling cycle, for instance. But it won't adjust the RPM more than 200 RPM higher, because on a stock truck, the fan clutch will work the engine harder at idle.
However, the Idle Stop Screw, which is the screw that your throttle cable parallels, and which is near the butterfly valve for the throttle, is how I would suggest you set your baseline throttle speed. The actual baseline RPM should be at least 700 RPM, if not 800 RPM. This is the manual adjustment you can make to idle speed.
@@isaiahwelch8066 I heard from another video that on these rangers you shouldn't adjust it from the factory setting because it only acts as a stop for the butterfly instead of it bottoming out inside the valve. Idk. I definitely adjusted mine to get out of a bind but now I think I'll put it back
Thumbs down because you didn’t suggest the obvious: CLEAN THE IAC (with carb cleaner). That often solves the problem. Idling that low is bad for your oil pressure. You need to spin the oil pump!
He did say it was a quick fix to get it home....not everyone has cleaner in their truck at all times
i sprayed and gently cleaned the visible areas in my 2005 Ranger 4.0 IAC and it idles lower than it used to, still has a bit of rev hang. Also cleaned the throttle plate after taking it off the intake manifold, back of it was straight up brown, front not so bad.
@@redneck-kg5zb yabut he shudda at least mentioned it.