Thank you , Thank you. I watched this this am and I had this ladder built up to the treehouse I am finishing in one day. Love the Ships ladder concept with the big grab rails. A much better solution that what I was planning before.
I too wish I could upload a picture. Mine's just getting assembled, staining and verathane to follow. I used the fancy router bit to cut out the handles because I was simply not brave enough to use a Skil saw, but I did trim the ends with a skill saw and then finished them off with a jig saw versus a Japanese pull saw. Took me a really long time to build it though, a month of weekends and a few mistakes along the way, but I am finally there. Thank you Charlie Spitzack!
I did a modified version for my shed loft. Took me an afternoon....very happy with the result. Thanks for the video. Very helpful....particularly the step template and the router bit with the bearings up top.
Just built one for my garage loft, super easy to build and is so stable and strong. I finished it in linseed oil with a darker stain on the treads to hide dirt. Thanks Charlie.
Nice, I think this is just about what I am looking for to use as my loft access in tiny gambrel roof home. Just a Little FYI, Code for handrail circumference: (You are probably a little over code) Profiles & Dimensions of Graspable Handrailings Dimension Specifications for Graspable Handrails: recap Railing grip size and shape: (must be able to be grasped) Round rails: between 1.25" and 2" in diameter Metal ogee shaped:
I just built one to get easy access to my loft storage space over my work area in the shop. Had to special order the pattern router bit (Whiteside brand are really nice ones) but found everything else locally. Turned out super nice and I’ll be attaching it to at loft with hinges and will raise/lower the bottom out of the way with an electric winch. Thank you for the inspiration.
Well done!! Thank you. I built a cabin with 2 lofts- one in each end. This ships ladder is perfect- either a moveable version or one in either loft. Here in Canada, we can use Robertson screws instead of Torx...
I like the integrated hand rails. Wonderfull seeing a longer in detail video from NTS feat. Charlie. ( Hi Spitz :-) Looking forward the next. Kind regards MB
It's really hard to put a solid release date on a video like that! Just waiting for the right Off-TV build to happen so we can document it properly! Keep hassling us, the more times people ask the bigger priority it becomes ;). We are so happy to hear from people that WANT to see us release content.
Thank you for this great video. I was able to build the entire ladder utilizing your RUclips video. I would upload a picture if I could. Thanks again Spitz!!
Spitz, This ships ladder video was so helpful! I can't wait for Dustin to see it! We are building a home in Utopia that we will use this ladder in. Be Blessed! Art
Great video, using your design to get up to my roof. I know you probably use a mask when not videoing....but a word of advice from a 64 yr old with COPD due to sawdust.....wear one. 😉
Awesome instructions. I really found this helpful so far. I'm not sure if I must use a plunge router. I might need to buy one :-) which is awesome. I'm still feeling shy about the plunge cuts with the circular saw. I have a couple side winder circular saws. But, I see the man using a worm-drive circular saw. In my mind, this seems like a more stable power tool for these internal cuts. I might need to buy one of those too. Thanks. I'm having a blast!
Why do you need a 16 foot length of 2x12 when the longest dimension is 12 foot, 4 and 1/8 inches. Could I not use a 14 foot piece instead? Or a 12 foot piece with 5 inches glued onto it's end? I like your work though.
What a great vid. Exactly what I needed to see! I'm contemplating building a ships ladder very similar to this, but it doesn't need to be anywhere near as wide. Also, weight is an issue. Would 1" x 12" x 12' stringers (and matching 1" x 6" pads) out of poplar be strong enough if the width is about 18" from outer edge of the stringers? Wife is small and needs to be able to move it a bit. All help appreciated!
Is it possible to make alternating steps with this design? If so could you give some details on how to go about the process if trying to use your original video as a guide?
I am confused about the plunge router bit. I am using 1 1/4" oak for the sides of my ladder and 1" thick wood for the steps. I got a 3/4" plunge router bit with a top bearing and did a test run on a scrap and I used a 3/8" edge bit and rounded over the edges of my first step. They do not fit together. Didn't you mean that I should use a 3/8" plunge router bit? Then I started looking for a 3/8" plunge router bit and I simply can't find one that is 5/8" deep. The one that I found is only 1/2" which means I will have to do every single plunge twice to achieve the 5/8" depth. Also, I read that it is going to be hard on my 3/8" bit to do all that plunge work (esp. with oak) so I am going to do it with the 3/4" bit and just cleanup the corners with the 3/8" bit - which means I have to do every one three times. Once with the 3/4" bit and then twice with the 3/8" bit. I am using a router with a 1/4" shank. Should I be doing all of this with a 1/2" shank given that I am using oak?
That'd be great! I've got limited experience using construction lumber where you can almost drive the screws in as far as you want. This might be a game changer, haha
12:01 Those 4" screws are quite long. Is there any way to make sure you screw it in parallel to the steps? I kinda think i'll screw it tilted and it ends up popping out.
I have a 16 x24 x17’3 steel building,therefore no rafters, beams, etc. I have a 10ft high loft that is 16x12 and another section connected at a “L” shape that is 6x12. The only area that does not have the loft is where my garage door is. I am wanting to add in a staircase for access, but am needing it to fold up. I am looking at using rails that are 6ft for top section and 8 ft for bottom section, therefore stair length measure of 14ft. So 10ft rise and approx. 9.8ft run. Does this sound acceptable as I don’t want too steep as I want to carry stuff up the stairs without needing a handrail, or would a shorter staircase work better. I do not have a railing on the loft as this is in garage and will only be used for storage. Would you be able to assist me with some plans and measurements. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Jason, we have ships ladder plans available here: store.beinatree.com/products/signature-ships-ladder-plan And they are designed to accommodate different dimensions. Although a 10ft/9.8ft rise/run would put your ladder angle at about 45 degrees, which i've never seen done before. We also would never recommend carrying stuff up a ships ladder with no hand rail, especially one at such an angle!
Thanks very much for this video! It inspired me to add two of these ladders to my kids' treehouse. They really like the ladders, and I really like the fact that there is always a handle for them to grab onto. Here's the treehouse I built - how did I do? ruclips.net/video/SVxCeSqepnE/видео.html
While I appreciate the attention to detail, especially when describing the mirror aspect of the stringers, I would suggest that you don't use abbreviations and short forms of description of what you're working with. Since this is instructions, you shouldn't assume that someone actually knows that 'doug fir' is 'Douglas fir'. (it doesn't even save you time to shorten it!)
Now that I've watched the entire video, and backed up on a few sections, I have a few recommendations. You're calling this an intermediate project, but then adding in things that an intermediate level woodworker may not have, or doesn't have the experience in using. Specifically, plunge saws aren't really an intermediate tool - especially at that size. Mine, for example, won't cut through 2" thickness, if I recall correctly. (That tells you how much I use it). Instead, use the router with a large bit. That'll make a clean hole (even if you have to use it twice per stringer, flipping it once to cut from both sides). You then used a rather expensive flat saw, which most woodworkers won't have bothered with buying. If you need to clean up a round cut, rather than using a hand chisel (which is a basic tool), I would be using a rasp. (Using the router would obviate (remove), the need for cleaning up that connection anyway, plus no longer needing the flat saw). At the end, you show cleaning up the wood glue, but don't mention that if you plan to stain or lacquer the ladder, you'll need to sand the areas where the glue has been smeared so that the stain/lacquer will soak in. That should be obvious to even a basic builder, but this is a rough instruction video. For the fasteners? Rather than pushing a specific brand (which I realize you're probably paid to show), suggest the head type and length. As was stated in another post, in Canada, Robertson (square drive) head is as common, or more common, than Torx/star. I can even buy bugle head or round head pocket screws (Deckmate and Kreg Brand) through Home Depot, even in Houston. I personally prefer Robertson to Torx. In a few places, the user may only be able to get Phillips. Edit - the outro volume is much lower than the main video. It was very hard to hear.
The video does not address the ravages that Mother Nature will have on the beautifully sanded wood stair. The lumber used are very expensive since they are very wide and relatively long. Tools used are in the advanced craftsman range, so not in the shop of even most experienced craftsmen. The width of the stair is okay for adults BUT not suitable for kids, AND the riser height probably also too high for kids. Other than these obvious things, fairly good video.
That wood is cheap. The tools are basic (anyone that builds much with wood will have a palm router, table saw, and miter saw). The rails are just fine. Any human old enough to climb that ladder could reach them and would also have no problem with the step spacing. As for weather, use common sense. If exposed to elements, obviously it will need to be treated, at the very least, or upgraded to cedar. But I'd envision this as a ladder that's on the interior of a tree house, or underneath the main structure and thus not exposed to rain.
Thank you , Thank you. I watched this this am and I had this ladder built up to the treehouse I am finishing in one day. Love the Ships ladder concept with the big grab rails. A much better solution that what I was planning before.
Thanks, the best angles are what I needed.
I too wish I could upload a picture. Mine's just getting assembled, staining and verathane to follow. I used the fancy router bit to cut out the handles because I was simply not brave enough to use a Skil saw, but I did trim the ends with a skill saw and then finished them off with a jig saw versus a Japanese pull saw. Took me a really long time to build it though, a month of weekends and a few mistakes along the way, but I am finally there. Thank you Charlie Spitzack!
I did a modified version for my shed loft. Took me an afternoon....very happy with the result. Thanks for the video. Very helpful....particularly the step template and the router bit with the bearings up top.
Wow that looks very impressive. A flawless build. I hope this gentleman enjoys how great his work is. Very good style.
Excellent instructional type of build video. I rarely find this kind of crisp and educational build tutorials. Thanks
Thank you for the positive feedback!
Just built one for my garage loft, super easy to build and is so stable and strong. I finished it in linseed oil with a darker stain on the treads to hide dirt. Thanks Charlie.
Nice, I think this is just about what I am looking for to use as my loft access in tiny gambrel roof home. Just a Little FYI, Code for handrail circumference: (You are probably a little over code)
Profiles & Dimensions of Graspable Handrailings
Dimension Specifications for Graspable Handrails: recap
Railing grip size and shape: (must be able to be grasped)
Round rails: between 1.25" and 2" in diameter
Metal ogee shaped:
Thanks for teaching us to build that super cool ship ladder. Followed your instructions all the way and it turned out great!
Great news! Did you use 16 foot lumber or less than 16 feet? According to the plans, a lot of the 16 feet lumber is cut off.
Love the show! Will be building for my tiny house in Eastern Washington
Best how to video i have seen so far. Good job young man !!
Brilliant tip on laying the stringers together to keep your wits about the mirror image of the cuts. Great stuff.
Spitz is one talented man!
@@NelsonTreehouseSupply so is his mom!
I just built one to get easy access to my loft storage space over my work area in the shop. Had to special order the pattern router bit (Whiteside brand are really nice ones) but found everything else locally.
Turned out super nice and I’ll be attaching it to at loft with hinges and will raise/lower the bottom out of the way with an electric winch.
Thank you for the inspiration.
Well done!! Thank you. I built a cabin with 2 lofts- one in each end. This ships ladder is perfect- either a moveable version or one in either loft. Here in Canada, we can use Robertson screws instead of Torx...
That is so cool and production quality makes it very easy to watch . Thank you
Thank you for the positive feedback! Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for sharing the video.Very cool.
Really well done build and video. Kudos dude
Thanks for posting. Took some ideas and transferred to my kids "ship ladder"(60 degrees) for their clubhouse
love the video. great job. cant get over that harry potter look
Beautiful!
I like the integrated hand rails. Wonderfull seeing a longer in detail video from NTS feat. Charlie. ( Hi Spitz :-) Looking forward the next. Kind regards MB
Agreed. This video is great! Looking forward to a detailed instructional video on platform building and beam hanging. Great job guys!
+JJCoolStuff This is on our TODO list! Just waiting on the right opportunity!
+NelsonTreehouseSupply any update on a DIY platform building video?
It's really hard to put a solid release date on a video like that! Just waiting for the right Off-TV build to happen so we can document it properly! Keep hassling us, the more times people ask the bigger priority it becomes ;). We are so happy to hear from people that WANT to see us release content.
Maurice Blok
How to make a wood ladder
Awesome video!!! Exactly what I was looking for
Great video
Awesome project. Great explanation throughout
Thank you for this great video. I was able to build the entire ladder utilizing your RUclips video. I would upload a picture if I could. Thanks again Spitz!!
Spitz, This ships ladder video was so helpful! I can't wait for Dustin to see it! We are building a home in Utopia that we will use this ladder in. Be Blessed! Art
Good job... Mr. Potter
Just loaded it right up and bring it over here boys, I been waiting on ya
On the way!
I gotta get my hands on those screw products screws. Someday.
Nice work.......
Very nice!
Great video, using your design to get up to my roof. I know you probably use a mask when not videoing....but a word of advice from a 64 yr old with COPD due to sawdust.....wear one. 😉
Thanks!
My works too. Used wood prix handbooks and build it with no problems.
Really inspiring. Not sure if you answer questions? Does a track saw work instead of a worm saw? Many Thanks, Phil
Awesome instructions. I really found this helpful so far. I'm not sure if I must use a plunge router. I might need to buy one :-) which is awesome. I'm still feeling shy about the plunge cuts with the circular saw. I have a couple side winder circular saws. But, I see the man using a worm-drive circular saw. In my mind, this seems like a more stable power tool for these internal cuts. I might need to buy one of those too.
Thanks. I'm having a blast!
Thanks for watching Ken! If you build one send us pics!
Dumbledore would be proud son.
Lol, nom nom nom router dust in the lungs.
So thats what Harry Potter does since leaving Hogwarts.
LOL
Pensé que era el único que se le ocurrio.
Stodoys plans is a solid company with solid woodworking plans.
Why do you need a 16 foot length of 2x12 when the longest dimension is 12 foot, 4 and 1/8 inches. Could I not use a 14 foot piece instead? Or a 12 foot piece with 5 inches glued onto it's end? I like your work though.
Hey Sptiz, where's all the mud? (: Big Island style, baby!
Great video! I'm building one and was wondering what kind of finish do you guys put on for the Northwest weather ? thanks Craig Breitbach
What a great vid. Exactly what I needed to see!
I'm contemplating building a ships ladder very similar to this, but it doesn't need to be anywhere near as wide. Also, weight is an issue. Would 1" x 12" x 12' stringers (and matching 1" x 6" pads) out of poplar be strong enough if the width is about 18" from outer edge of the stringers? Wife is small and needs to be able to move it a bit. All help appreciated!
I don't see why not!
Is it possible to make alternating steps with this design? If so could you give some details on how to go about the process if trying to use your original video as a guide?
You'll regret alternating steps. Difficult for people to come down.
I am confused about the plunge router bit. I am using 1 1/4" oak for the sides of my ladder and 1" thick wood for the steps. I got a 3/4" plunge router bit with a top bearing and did a test run on a scrap and I used a 3/8" edge bit and rounded over the edges of my first step. They do not fit together. Didn't you mean that I should use a 3/8" plunge router bit? Then I started looking for a 3/8" plunge router bit and I simply can't find one that is 5/8" deep. The one that I found is only 1/2" which means I will have to do every single plunge twice to achieve the 5/8" depth. Also, I read that it is going to be hard on my 3/8" bit to do all that plunge work (esp. with oak) so I am going to do it with the 3/4" bit and just cleanup the corners with the 3/8" bit - which means I have to do every one three times. Once with the 3/4" bit and then twice with the 3/8" bit. I am using a router with a 1/4" shank. Should I be doing all of this with a 1/2" shank given that I am using oak?
Great video guys. Interested in the comment about not driving the screws in too far...how does that change it's holding power?
+Robin Lewis Good question! next time I see spitz i'll ask. Maybe its time to start a Q&A video series?!?
That'd be great! I've got limited experience using construction lumber where you can almost drive the screws in as far as you want. This might be a game changer, haha
Mais um Inscrito!!! Brasil
You used fur? I always have grain raise issues with fur
I need help getting access to the river, can you come over? (After quarantine)
What brand of power and hand tools do y'all use and why?
Is that a plastic quick square? holy cow! have Pete spring a coupla bucks for a real one. tell him Q said so.
Maybe in my next lifetime I would like to be a carpenter...
+Just a Visitor now you can be! With our new DIY series :)
Make some more DIY videos !
Any ideas?!?!!?!
I wish I could cut straight like that...
Practice makes perfect! Worse comes to worse and just call it "rustic".
Haha, good one! Still starting on woodworking, ur channel is a really nice reference! Thx!
12:01 Those 4" screws are quite long. Is there any way to make sure you screw it in parallel to the steps? I kinda think i'll screw it tilted and it ends up popping out.
Use a drill and give yourself a nice straight pilot hole! This will keep the 4" screws from going in random directions upon entering the wood.
oh that's nice. Thank you!
He's the muggle version of Harry Potter.
I have a 16 x24 x17’3 steel building,therefore no rafters, beams, etc. I have a 10ft high loft that is 16x12
and another section connected at a “L” shape that is 6x12. The only area
that does not have the loft is where my garage door is. I am wanting to add
in a staircase for access, but am needing it to fold up.
I am looking at using rails that are 6ft for top section and 8 ft for bottom
section, therefore stair length measure of 14ft. So 10ft rise and
approx. 9.8ft run. Does this sound acceptable as I don’t want too steep
as I want to carry stuff up the stairs without needing a handrail, or would a
shorter staircase work better. I do not have a railing on the loft as
this is in garage and will only be used for storage. Would you be able to
assist me with some plans and measurements.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Jason, we have ships ladder plans available here: store.beinatree.com/products/signature-ships-ladder-plan And they are designed to accommodate different dimensions.
Although a 10ft/9.8ft rise/run would put your ladder angle at about 45 degrees, which i've never seen done before.
We also would never recommend carrying stuff up a ships ladder with no hand rail, especially one at such an angle!
Thanks very much for this video! It inspired me to add two of these ladders to my kids' treehouse. They really like the ladders, and I really like the fact that there is always a handle for them to grab onto. Here's the treehouse I built - how did I do? ruclips.net/video/SVxCeSqepnE/видео.html
I've heard good feedback about the Woodglut plans.
This time I will use woodglut plans for this.
Thanks Harry Potter!
Nice hair
harry potter!!!!
*Spitzack not Spitzach*
+pioneer7777777 Thank you for pointing this out! fixed.
I really like the Stodoys plans.
Ladder Made in Hogwarts
While I appreciate the attention to detail, especially when describing the mirror aspect of the stringers, I would suggest that you don't use abbreviations and short forms of description of what you're working with. Since this is instructions, you shouldn't assume that someone actually knows that 'doug fir' is 'Douglas fir'. (it doesn't even save you time to shorten it!)
Now that I've watched the entire video, and backed up on a few sections, I have a few recommendations.
You're calling this an intermediate project, but then adding in things that an intermediate level woodworker may not have, or doesn't have the experience in using. Specifically, plunge saws aren't really an intermediate tool - especially at that size. Mine, for example, won't cut through 2" thickness, if I recall correctly. (That tells you how much I use it). Instead, use the router with a large bit. That'll make a clean hole (even if you have to use it twice per stringer, flipping it once to cut from both sides). You then used a rather expensive flat saw, which most woodworkers won't have bothered with buying. If you need to clean up a round cut, rather than using a hand chisel (which is a basic tool), I would be using a rasp. (Using the router would obviate (remove), the need for cleaning up that connection anyway, plus no longer needing the flat saw). At the end, you show cleaning up the wood glue, but don't mention that if you plan to stain or lacquer the ladder, you'll need to sand the areas where the glue has been smeared so that the stain/lacquer will soak in. That should be obvious to even a basic builder, but this is a rough instruction video.
For the fasteners? Rather than pushing a specific brand (which I realize you're probably paid to show), suggest the head type and length. As was stated in another post, in Canada, Robertson (square drive) head is as common, or more common, than Torx/star. I can even buy bugle head or round head pocket screws (Deckmate and Kreg Brand) through Home Depot, even in Houston. I personally prefer Robertson to Torx. In a few places, the user may only be able to get Phillips.
Edit - the outro volume is much lower than the main video. It was very hard to hear.
I found this immensely helpful, thank you. But I have to ask... a Prisoner tattoo? Aren't you rather young to be a fan of The Prisoner?
I know a guy in his late twenties with a Beatles tattoo.
i assume you squared it ;p
Harry Potter
The video does not address the ravages that Mother Nature will have on the beautifully sanded wood stair. The lumber used are very expensive since they are very wide and relatively long. Tools used are in the advanced craftsman range, so not in the shop of even most experienced craftsmen. The width of the stair is okay for adults BUT not suitable for kids, AND the riser height probably also too high for kids. Other than these obvious things, fairly good video.
That wood is cheap. The tools are basic (anyone that builds much with wood will have a palm router, table saw, and miter saw). The rails are just fine. Any human old enough to climb that ladder could reach them and would also have no problem with the step spacing. As for weather, use common sense. If exposed to elements, obviously it will need to be treated, at the very least, or upgraded to cedar. But I'd envision this as a ladder that's on the interior of a tree house, or underneath the main structure and thus not exposed to rain.
Vince Lee calm down sparky