This was a fun walk down memory lane. Thanks for doing this. As you asked for any help, I thought I’d give you some information as someone who used this camera professionally in the 80’s and 90’s. Remember that this camera represents the pinnacle of what could be done with film in that era. You appear to have a grasp of the function, but trying to use that function without understanding the theories behind it is really putting the cart before the horse. If you’re not already familiar with Ansel Adams and the Zone System, you would truly benefit from this knowledge, as it would almost instantly make the purpose of this camera’s features crystal clear. Another thing to understand would be the difference between exposing negative vs transparency films as no meter could truly expose for both. One film needed exposure biased for the highlights and the other for the shadows, and transparency film had a "VERY" slim latitude for error. The multi-spot metering, as well as the "highlight" and "shadow" buttons were designed to help you deal with either of the above situations individually. These days, we can use the histogram to achieve the same results. In those days, before the T-90, we just moved our ISO dial (ASA back then) to compensate for negative or transparency film. We could then bias for highlight or shadow exposure with Shutter/Aperture/Exp. Compensation dials. The T-90 was pretty unique because it gave us more specific, creative, and artistic (think Zone System) ways to achieve this. Hope this helped. Sorry it was so long. The T-90 was one of the most beautiful and full featured cameras of it’s day, and it never really got its moment in the sun as the EOS auto focus camera system came just a year later and eclipsed its greatness.
It's pretty straightforward really. You can take upto 9 spot readings but three readings should suffice. If you have a backlight subject, press the spot button twice on the subject and once on the background.
Thanks for the video, but it's a bit confusing to some folks that have only been exposed to the world of Auto-Focus cameras. Your Spot Meter Readings AREN'T "focus points"...😁
Thx for this video. I bought a second hand T90 which made me dream when I was younger (and not rich enough) and it is really an amazing camera. It s beautiful ( I saw a comment saying it s ugly but of course I don t agree) , it s a beast , it was 10 years in advance... except for autofocus. It defined - far earlier than the Nikon F4 - the design of new cameras and I love it. I didn’t experiment a lot it’s capabilities for this average spot points but after seeing your video I am eager to try this. Thx for it.
The T90 is already complex on its own. Coupled with the 300TL flash, its on another whole new level. What other camera lets you shoot TTL flash using spot-metering ? On another note, the multi-spot metering on the OM-4 is a lot easier to use.
Definitely a good discussion piece. I just picked up my T90 at a local thrift store for $20 and I've been trying to figure everything out as well. Great video!
I actually owned the T-90 back in the 90s and I absolutely loved it. Prior to that I had the A-1. I no longer have it but I recently purchased another one. Want to shoot film every now and then. I never took advantage of some of the things you pointed out but I hope to this time around. It really is a great film camera. Thanks for the video!
Evaluative or matrix is the DSLR version of the multi spot meter, fractionalizing the composition into multiple spotmeter-like polygons linked to an algorithm that chooses the best exposure. I like the T90 way unless I'm taking action snapshots. Thanks for the video. By the way, you said focus points many times in the video.
When I got this camera in 1990, that I did not had no Canon FD lenses yet, all I got was a 28mm Focal FD mount, So when working at a Camera Store that we stock lens adapters, and I seen we had Canon FD mount to Nikkor F lenses, so I bought an adapter, and it got use to mount the Nikkor lens, and had my share of chipped finger nail, that I managed it to work it, now for the metering all I did was set the F/stop Lever, and on Manual setting as I could use it on Stop Down Metering, So a Canon body with Nikon manual focus lenses to use, and work. Then later I manage to use Aperture mode with the Nikkor lens, and got that to work. Simple No? Great Video.....
You have done more homework than I did. I *thought* I understood the T90's multi-metering. However when I carefully did the different multi-points under a bridge with the sky through the top, and then right after took the same shot with the T90 in Program mode, the shots looked exactly the same. I ended up taking the T90 to Peru and just used it in Program mode. Both C41 rolls and E6 rolls. All were perfectly exposed. My focusing? Well, that's another matter, ha ha.
The more complex a system is the more chances of not getting it to do what you want. I have a T90 and A1, bought new. I do not use film , for now, but I always used to find, as I do now, use the full metering area, it is centre weighted, and point at something mid light or a good mix and have the camera on manual. If out and about in good constant light levels then one of the auto modes may work ok. I was a TV mode fan, no good having a well exposed picture if it has camera shake. Nice to see the T90 still in use by some, it was fantastic in its day. Still have the glossy brochure.
In order to fully understand and comprehend how the exposure systems works you must have a very solid knowledge of how to mesure light, like 70´s and 80´s pro photographers used to have. Learn the zone system and research about spot metering, good land scape photographers uses spot metering all the time.
Why make a video on the the T90 camera if you have not read properly the manual? Yes the manual contains a lot of information, and might get overwhelming to some people, it is because it has a lot of functionalities, that's the way it is. Not happy, get a point and shoot. The T90 is the best camera ever made, and the user manual is excellent. I have been using this camera for more than 23 years, never failed me..just had it CAL'ed after I bought it used, just by precaution. Again, read the manual and practice, even without film loaded..
The video explains that I read the manual. In fact, I read the relevant pats over-and-over, trying to work out each concept and step, dry shooting, in addition to fist reading it to completion. Then later comparing various meter readings, making comparisons to averaging with a Sesonic spotmeter, setting up scenes and scenarios to work it out. I had some fundamental knowledge of photography and already used several metering techniques, but this particular metering concept and process is very unique. I did not need a snap camera. I was learning something new, mult-spot metering. I did learn how to use the multi-spot metering function because some people online helped me have just enough capacity to start making sense of the confusion I had reading parts of the manual to get over the threshold. What I learned also got my foot in the door with learning lots of other useful spot metering concepts. Most of all, the goal was to make use of one of the most fascinating metering processes, of one of the greatest camera ever made. It's still my favorite camera today. So, I'm glad I asked.
This was a fun walk down memory lane. Thanks for doing this. As you asked for any help, I thought I’d give you some information as someone who used this camera professionally in the 80’s and 90’s. Remember that this camera represents the pinnacle of what could be done with film in that era. You appear to have a grasp of the function, but trying to use that function without understanding the theories behind it is really putting the cart before the horse. If you’re not already familiar with Ansel Adams and the Zone System, you would truly benefit from this knowledge, as it would almost instantly make the purpose of this camera’s features crystal clear. Another thing to understand would be the difference between exposing negative vs transparency films as no meter could truly expose for both. One film needed exposure biased for the highlights and the other for the shadows, and transparency film had a "VERY" slim latitude for error. The multi-spot metering, as well as the "highlight" and "shadow" buttons were designed to help you deal with either of the above situations individually. These days, we can use the histogram to achieve the same results. In those days, before the T-90, we just moved our ISO dial (ASA back then) to compensate for negative or transparency film. We could then bias for highlight or shadow exposure with Shutter/Aperture/Exp. Compensation dials. The T-90 was pretty unique because it gave us more specific, creative, and artistic (think Zone System) ways to achieve this. Hope this helped. Sorry it was so long. The T-90 was one of the most beautiful and full featured cameras of it’s day, and it never really got its moment in the sun as the EOS auto focus camera system came just a year later and eclipsed its greatness.
I was wondering why this was not being discussed! Thank you!
It's pretty straightforward really. You can take upto 9 spot readings but three readings should suffice. If you have a backlight subject, press the spot button twice on the subject and once on the background.
Thanks for the video, but it's a bit confusing to some folks that have only been exposed to the world of Auto-Focus cameras.
Your Spot Meter Readings AREN'T "focus points"...😁
Not focus points. Metering points
Thx for this video. I bought a second hand T90 which made me dream when I was younger (and not rich enough) and it is really an amazing camera. It s beautiful ( I saw a comment saying it s ugly but of course I don t agree) , it s a beast , it was 10 years in advance... except for autofocus. It defined - far earlier than the Nikon F4 - the design of new cameras and I love it. I didn’t experiment a lot it’s capabilities for this average spot points but after seeing your video I am eager to try this. Thx for it.
No problem. It's an awesome camera. Glad the video was of some use.
The T90 is already complex on its own. Coupled with the 300TL flash, its on another whole new level. What other camera lets you shoot TTL flash using spot-metering ?
On another note, the multi-spot metering on the OM-4 is a lot easier to use.
Niall, Good ULR for all you need to know about the T90. www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/canont90/index.htm
Definitely a good discussion piece. I just picked up my T90 at a local thrift store for $20 and I've been trying to figure everything out as well. Great video!
I actually owned the T-90 back in the 90s and I absolutely loved it. Prior to that I had the A-1. I no longer have it but I recently purchased another one. Want to shoot film every now and then. I never took advantage of some of the things you pointed out but I hope to this time around. It really is a great film camera. Thanks for the video!
for multiple metering spot mode only
Evaluative or matrix is the DSLR version of the multi spot meter, fractionalizing the composition into multiple spotmeter-like polygons linked to an algorithm that chooses the best exposure. I like the T90 way unless I'm taking action snapshots. Thanks for the video. By the way, you said focus points many times in the video.
When I got this camera in 1990, that I did not had no Canon FD lenses yet, all I got was a 28mm Focal FD mount, So when working at a Camera Store that we stock lens adapters, and I seen we had Canon FD mount to Nikkor F lenses, so I bought an adapter, and it got use to mount the Nikkor lens, and had my share of chipped finger nail, that I managed it to work it, now for the metering all I did was set the F/stop Lever, and on Manual setting as I could use it on Stop Down Metering, So a Canon body with Nikon manual focus lenses to use, and work. Then later I manage to use Aperture mode with the Nikkor lens, and got that to work. Simple No? Great Video.....
You have done more homework than I did. I *thought* I understood the T90's multi-metering. However when I carefully did the different multi-points under a bridge with the sky through the top, and then right after took the same shot with the T90 in Program mode, the shots looked exactly the same. I ended up taking the T90 to Peru and just used it in Program mode. Both C41 rolls and E6 rolls. All were perfectly exposed. My focusing? Well, that's another matter, ha ha.
The more complex a system is the more chances of not getting it to do what you want. I have a T90 and A1, bought new. I do not use film , for now, but I always used to find, as I do now, use the full metering area, it is centre weighted, and point at something mid light or a good mix and have the camera on manual. If out and about in good constant light levels then one of the auto modes may work ok. I was a TV mode fan, no good having a well exposed picture if it has camera shake. Nice to see the T90 still in use by some, it was fantastic in its day. Still have the glossy brochure.
I forgot to say, partial metering is usually the best option and holding the shutter button half way will lock the meter.
Multi-spot metering only usable in the spot-metering mode.
One fantastic camera. Wish I still had mine. Great for wedding photography. Multi spot metering like the Olympus OM 4t. Bunting film advance.
In order to fully understand and comprehend how the exposure systems works you must have a very solid knowledge of how to mesure light, like 70´s and 80´s pro photographers used to have. Learn the zone system and research about spot metering, good land scape photographers uses spot metering all the time.
Why make a video on the the T90 camera if you have not read properly the manual? Yes the manual contains a lot of information, and might get overwhelming to some people, it is because it has a lot of functionalities, that's the way it is. Not happy, get a point and shoot. The T90 is the best camera ever made, and the user manual is excellent. I have been using this camera for more than 23 years, never failed me..just had it CAL'ed after I bought it used, just by precaution. Again, read the manual and practice, even without film loaded..
The video explains that I read the manual. In fact, I read the relevant pats over-and-over, trying to work out each concept and step, dry shooting, in addition to fist reading it to completion. Then later comparing various meter readings, making comparisons to averaging with a Sesonic spotmeter, setting up scenes and scenarios to work it out.
I had some fundamental knowledge of photography and already used several metering techniques, but this particular metering concept and process is very unique.
I did not need a snap camera. I was learning something new, mult-spot metering.
I did learn how to use the multi-spot metering function because some people online helped me have just enough capacity to start making sense of the confusion I had reading parts of the manual to get over the threshold.
What I learned also got my foot in the door with learning lots of other useful spot metering concepts.
Most of all, the goal was to make use of one of the most fascinating metering processes, of one of the greatest camera ever made.
It's still my favorite camera today. So, I'm glad I asked.
That's an ugly camera.
I know all about similar Nikon cameras like the N75 but don't know about Canon cameras
Pal, make a script first, the video is confusing, are you asking for help or are you trying to bring help?