NO MORE BURNT OUT SHOWER ISOLATORS
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- Опубликовано: 16 янв 2025
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Everything you see i have purchased myself, this gives me complete control to voice my honest opinion about any product
Just day to day sparky videos
If you like it, that’s cool, if you don’t, that’s cool as well.
Remember, context is important, I can’t show/film every part of every test otherwise I’d still be there now😂just assume I’ve carried it out correctly
#electrician #electrical #electricalwork
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Nice design and application. The switches don't just burn out- they are also pulled off the ceiling as they can be more clunky than the previous installers fixing skills. You've solved both issues with this solution- top man!
Thanks mate🤙🏻
Great idea, especially if you’re fighting with a 10mm to get it in a pull cord
Totally agree, don't get me wrong it can be done....but why struggle 🤷♂️👍🏻👍🏻
What a great easy solution to a pain in the arse connecting the 10 mil to a pull cord, great video as always 👍
Thanks
Mate, absolute top video. 18 years experience right there. Keep up the great work, really appreciated!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great Vid one of the best ideas I have seen in a long time thx I will certainly be looking to use this for myself
Awesome! Thank you!
This is a great idea.
Thanks
Excellent idea,.
The only thing that's missing vs a traditional 45a pull switch is the neon or flag indicator showing off or on for the user,.. maybe something to work on...
But , yes, fabulous idea.
Cheers
🫡
Could always use a 20amp DP switch with a neon…..sorted
Great little video, really cleared a few things up 👍🙏
Appreciate it mate, nice to get positive feedback on the internet, doesn't happen often 😂
Very very good- a great solution!
Thanks
Great video... i wish i do these sort of works day in day out...
👍🏻
Nice, I essentially do the same thing for ovens so that I can have a 20a DP isolator in the grid with all the other appliances. Put the contactor in the board or next to it.
Nice🫡
shower pull cords are a nightmare 😂youv got a good idea there
✌🏻✌🏻
A brilliant idea that I will be using from now on thank you wheres the best place to buy is that a din rail enclosure, or did you make it up etc
TLC, CEF or any decent wholesalers✌🏻
Back when the world was black & White, we used to do similar things using relays, much fun …😊
Still use relays🤘🏻🤘🏻
I did exactly what you are presenting in a rented property where a dangerous switching and isolation installation had been done.
There were insufficient ways in the existing wiring between loft and en suite bedroom to have a two pole isolator so I used the isolator as a control switch.
I put the contactor in a suitably IP rated enclosure in the loft.
Exactly 👍🏻
I thought it was a grow board at first glance 😂 cracking idea mate
😂😂😂
What a great idea, never thought of it before but perfect for getting rid of those pesky shower pull cords! Personally always used two gang size 45amp switch with 47mm back box outside the bathroom when doing new installs and never had any issues……but pull cords, blimey how many have we all been out to, even when fitted properly with tight connections they just don’t last!
👍🏻thanks
Very very well explained 👌👌👌 I've never done a contactor and not looking forward to the day when I'll have to 😂
Appreciate it🙏🏻
Great video, just replaced a shower switch for the second time, know what I'm doing next time 😊
Excellent!
love it, never thought of using the a contractor for shower, hate the shower switch. you would have thought manufacturers would have developed something better for the termination and switch of the larger conductors by no
Exactly why I thought of this, overkill from my commercial sparky days
Brilliant idea, I'll definitely be taking this one. My only question is shouldn't it be in a metal enclosure?
Nope, it's not a distribution circuit
Best way IMO, done this now since about 2016, makes the job way easier
🫡🫡
Pair this idea with a wireless switch and you have an easy retrofit, if the shower circuit is already installed. No chasing or trunking in sight 👍
Exactly🤙🏻🤙🏻🫡
Great job mate.
Thanks 👍
This is a brilliant idea for sure makes the problem of those pesky ceiling mounted pull-cords disappear and trying to snake wrestle the 10mm cable into them 🙃
That's what I thought🤙🏻
What brand/supplier are those DIN Rail Terminal blocks from?
Can't remember tbh
Great idea.
Thanks!
If you use a double or triple-row consumer unit, you can reserve an entire row for additional items such as contactors or bell transformers. This means you can avoid any extra enclosures and all of the equipment is located centrally. You can use the same setup for your oven/hob and you just have a single uninterrupted cable out to each load.
When they become more popular, maybe. This is a simple retrospective idea to solve a common issue for sparks
I take it the shower circuit and the chosen lighting circuit have to be on the same RCD ?
Nope
This is exactly what I was going to do with my own home. Unfortunately it never happened as it was in the middle of lock down and was struggling to get parts.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Lockdown? You mean lock in. Let’s get rid of this unlawful term that everybody bands around as if it is an official diary entry. Hope you got your shower sorted👍
Sold on the concept and safety. How do prices compare, how do you sell it to a customer?
Google a 2pole contactor, a cheap enclosure & a pull cord...doubt it'll be more than £60
@@bristolsparky
Just don't use a cheap contactor, unfortunately, they are cheap for a reason.
@@casperme6552 I didn't say cheap contactor, I said cheap enclosure.
Great idea, love it via quinetic👌
Glad you like it!
Great video just a question back when I fitted our shower the uk regs said the switch has to have a live indicator either red paint or a light in the switch?
Ps I leave ours on all the time
Nonsense, no regulation has ever said that
Thats true .mechanical flag , in case neon fails @@bristolsparky
Excellent design. It should be a standard method of installation.
I agree!
👍👍Sparkly Xtra😂😂
Xtra🤣🤣🤣
Aren’t the din rails common with the cpcs?
I'd only use 1 cpc din rail so I bonds the din rail, then use regular ones for the other CPC's as to not introduce a parallel path
@bristolsparky good job
So would you mount that next to the light switch?or in the same position youd mount the isolator? I know you say connect with the light switch,but what if the client doesn't want it to come on like that and wants it separate?
No, in the loft or next to the DB
Where's the earth tags and earth cable CPC on the glands as there missing as the cores are already connected 😂
🙃🙃🙃
Used a 40a contactor & a 24/7 digital timer like used for immersion heater to switch on/off dumb EV charger off peak
(digital timer is 16a max, by itself might be ok for 13a granny 3 pin charger but not 32a wall charger)
So the digital timer became your switch/control circuit, to then energise 40a contactor to charge EV off peak.
Yes can config charge schedules in app/car, but this circuit will charge any EV off peak without further configuration or syncing different car to smart charger app.
Wire to a 32a commando socket (switched interlock) & then plug in almost any device to operate off peak with timer & 40a contactor
Wireless switch is a clever idea though...
It would enable the device to be remotely isolated/controlled within house, preventing anybody else using said device
I tip my hat sir
👍🏻
What’s your preferred brand of DIN rail terminal and where do you source them? I’m Bath-based and no one seems to stick either Wago Top Jobs or plastic DIN rails
Wago are available at CEF
Great until the contacts weld shut, no neon indicator to know its happened either.
Cool story
@@bristolsparkyUnusual response. Do you disagree? Could be a horrific story but crack on buddy.
@@ashleypowell1623 Like most Uk electric showers... the isolator is left on for almost its entire life....think we'll be fine mate
@@bristolsparkyI kinda agree, I'd personally like to do away with the shower isolator all together, not add even more shit to fail. If I'm working on a shower I'm turning off the breaker either way.
Like this good idea
Thanks 👍
If you use Hager isolators for showers or other high load equipment and it’s installed correctly, terminals tight and cables addressed correctly, it will last a long time. However you fit a click or MK shower pull switch, you’ll be luck if it lasts a year as the quality is so shit! I never use click
I've come across all brands that have been damaged over the years. I'm not saying stop using isolators, just showing another method
The best way to do it , very good video. Shame that if you out a decent consumer unit the contsctors for rhe brand are so exoensive that you end up having to get different brand contactors and put them outside the CU but thats a different issue.
Well put
What happens if you don’t tighten the 6mm/10mm in the contactor… buy a crab tree pull cord or scholmore click polar they have loads of room in there..
I do like the idea of this but how much extra would the costing be to do something like this??
Decent video though 👌
The same thing will obviously happen which I assume you're alluding too. It's like £60 for a small contactor/enclosure and a pullcord.
@@bristolsparky not too bad to be fair I thought it would be more, would work well for oven/hobs too some of them are a nightmare to get back
@@rjkelectrical6086 also a great application to be fair mate
brilliant
Thanks
Did this with a fusebox 4 module C/U in the loft, there 63 amp contactor is two pole 💘
Perfect
Not worth the extra work and cost , the 45 or 50 amp pull switch doesn’t need to be switched off after every use of the shower .
It's hardly much more cost
My thoughts exactly.
Great set up but you just couldn’t justify the cost to said client. 👍
@@bristolsparkygreat content as always mate 👍
Brilliant idea mate
But when it comes to testing to the end point eg the shower the contactor will have to be bypassed. I was taught that r1+r2 needs to be measured at the end point. I remove ovens in this respect to check that the last part of the circuit is ok (ins res & r1+r2)
Quinnetic switch is a great idea too which I might try but beside the consumer unit as if it’s hidden and the boards not marked another electrician will struggle to find it.
Big thumbs up from me 😊
👍🏻
a good option but if the switch gets damaged there is another issue
Replace the switch....
@@bristolsparky it’s more if the switch is failing not from being used beyond its expected life that there’s something else happening
It’s a good idea tbh, although I can see the additional cost being a bit much to some client’s
Google or speak to your wholesaler a 45A 2 pole contactor and a cheap enclosure....doubt it'll be more than £60
@@bristolsparky Im not self employed but if I was I would do it tbh. It’s a really good idea, especially in flats.
@@ryanfoley187 i did it when i was employed as well, i made my boss aware of the benefits
Could u pls tell me make and model
Of what?
A contactor is not an isolator, if you need to provide isolation you need an isolator. If you look at motor starter ranges there is a reason they do every model with an isolator option.
The mcb is a point of isolation if you'd like to be pedantic
Good idea, but an mcb isn’t local, the shower needs a local isolator. But it is a brilliant idea.
@@almac56- 2 pole rcbo and lock off kit? You can’t get anymore isolated than that.
@@almac56the switch to energise the contactor will be located outside the bathroom or as a lighting pull cord in the bathroom… so turn that off the contactor will become de energised turning off the shower….
I agree it turns the shower off, but a smaller switch controlling the contractor isn’t classed as an isolator, the contractor isn’t classed as an isolator either. It’s a fantastic idea but not to BS 7671 which is what we work to. Put an Eaton Glasgow 63 amp isolator in, that won’t Feckin burn out!
The best way to stop a shower pull cord switch from becoming thermally damaged is to buy a good quality one and torque the connections correctly. Simple.
Of course that's one way
Nice idea, BUT the customer will complain of the noise when the contactor activates (In or out) it also puts the price up too much. (Box, contactor, DIN rail, time to assemble it, no fused down for the switch) As I said, nice idea, but not worth the grief.
Did you not watch the whole video? The noise is the same as a light switch, especially if it's inside an enclosure in a loft or cupboard with DB. £60-ish materials. The switch is on the lighting circuit adequately protected....
Yes, I did watch the whole video, we will have to disagree (Don't get me wrong, I like the idea) I don't think it is worth the extra time and money to the end user.
@@tonipeters-looks-at I understand, its not very common online that you get 2 people who can respectfully disagree but appreciate each others opinion with honesty & integrity.
The contactor pulling in or out is much the same as the solenoid on the shower. This is a great idea and the next sparky in will thank his lucky stars ( once he finds out what witch craft has been performed )
Forgive an amateur question. Why use a separate (lighting) circuit for the control and not just take a live feed from the main incomer to the switch?
The whole point of a contactor in this instance is to be able
To switch large loads from a smaller rated circuit. Ie via a light switch…
Think I'll run out of characters to explain this.
@@rjkelectrical6086 Yes, I can see that but I don't understand why you can't take the live and neutral for the control from the input side of the same source.
@@rjkelectrical6086it still would be
@@renowden2010 what would be the point of having a contactor then?
Thats replacing one potential issue with multiple others isnt it?
Not at all
@bristolsparky other than having to wrestle 10 mm into a pull cord (which can often be avoided by designing it with wall switch and using two gang plate and deep back box) u swapp one mechanical switch( that if fitted correctly has probably only ever so slightly higher chance of failing than that light switch you swapped it with) wit 4 more sets of connections at least. Each of which has potential for an issue. (3 sets of connections on contactor and another one on supply side of whereever you took power for contactor controls from) plus contactors burn out just the same as switches probably more. Not to mention that hummfree contactors cost a fortune. Anywa sensible in some cases but would not be my go to as a standard.
Although if i ended up having to fit 16mm t&e to a shower, than i would fit a contactor ..... 😃
Had so many shower switches burn out even quality mk ones.
Me too!
Nice
Thanks
You never said the A1 and A2 230v coil connections if taken of the shower room circuit must be through a 6A RCBO and not through a fuse or MCB also your contactor shower supply must also be through an RCBO not a 45A MCB or was your video just for sparks I think you would get a lot of Diyers trying that Cheers
Yes I did, either local lighting circuit or it's on dedicated circuit for control circuit & own circuit for the shower. It was explained in more detail on my TikTok video with diagrams. This is for electrical apprentices/improvers & sparks.
Is there anything in this bloody world , some people wont moan about , ,ffs . A click from a contactor ....does my effin head in 😮
Mad isn't it!
just so pricy doing this though
Nope, materials are not even £60
@bristolsparky yer but a pull cord is a tenner
@ of course it is, I don't deny that