Thank for the video. My BES875 trips the RCD breaker when pressing singe/double shot expresso. Steamer and grinder work fine. Resistance on CEME 588 is 2.3 kOhm. I checked machine with Live line disconnected for 2/3 ways valve and it did not tripped the RCD. I will try to replace valve with a new one and have a go.
Can you show where you have gotten the Ceme solenoind assembly from, and the part number? (I am also interested in the fittings, too, in case mine break.) I have heard of using non-OEM valves, but until now, knew nothing of who or where they were available. You are correct, as far as getting them from Europe, I ordered some Olab valves, but it takes about a month to come. Thanks.
Parts source is in the video description of the installation video, a bit earlier in this playlist. ruclips.net/video/yPZCZxlEU6Q/видео.html It seems Breville changed from the Olab parts to the Ceme parts around 2017, so both are "OEM". My part numbers are of course for the 120V/60Hz solenoids. The only difference between the various voltages is the black plastic coil that fits on top of the valve, so if you can't find the right voltage valve, it's easy enough to swap coils between valves. There seem to be 24V, 120V, 240V models out there.
Thanks for the video. My BES870 started malfunctioning a few days ago. I believe the issue traces back to a bad solenoid but I am not 100% sure. I was hoping to get your expert opinion. Here are the symptoms: -- When the machine starts up, the pump draws water from the tank and sounds normal. -- When switched into hot water mode, the pump used to make a thumping noise at regular intervals. This is no longer happening. The thumping sound is gone. Very little hot water comes out, if any. Instead, I get a small amount of steam from the hot water spout. I also hear an "electrical current noise" similar to that at timestamp 3:10 of your video. -- When switched into steam mode, again, the thumping pump noise is gone. Very low steam pressure. Same noise as hot water mode. -- When I try to pull a shot, the pump starts quieter than normal but sometimes recovers towards the end of the cycle. The total volume of the shot is smaller than normal. Separate from this, the machine sometimes produces shots much larger than normal. This has been going on for longer and I think it's a problem of the flow meter. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
Check the 2 micro switches at the hot water / steam valve, those control hot water and steam modes (i.e. make the thumbing pump sounds). Those switches (as well as the flow sensor) are pointed out in this video: ruclips.net/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/видео.htmlsi=3s_Wig5GuBh3UP7A Variable shot volume, suspect the water flow sensor as that's what tells the machine how much water has flowed. Sensor may be partly clogged and that's causing the variable volume readings.
@@The4Crawler Thanks for the quick reply!! Which component makes the thumping sound? Is it the pump? I think the micro switches do work because when I turn the hot water / steam knob, the machine does recognize that hot water / steam is requested. It just has trouble delivering them. After watching your other video, I think the right solenoid (the one that splits flow between the group head and hot water / steam) seems to be the component that ties my symptoms together. Does that sound reasonable? I had been confused about why the pump sounded normal at startup but now it makes a lot of sense because the startup pumping action is controlled by the left solenoid, so thanks for explaining that!
@@arthurcao4469 The pump makes the thumping noise as it cycles on and off, especially in steam mode, Why? Steam is ~1000 times less dense than liquid water, so it takes much less pumped water to make steam. Solenoids should all be off in hot water / steam mode, as shown in the water flow video. One simple test is to unplug the wires to the solenoid valves (be careful to unplug the machine first and wrap all the connectors in electrical tape). Then run hot water or steam cycle and if it now works, that means the solenoids might be getting powered when they shouldn't. Could also be the 3-port valve is partly clogged and not fully closing when it's off. This will let part of the water flow up to the hot water / steam valve and part to the group head and/or drip tray if the 2-port solenoid is also clogged. ruclips.net/video/eljHS_BRJXk/видео.htmlsi=94vdNC5jsF1xY4bm
@@The4Crawler I ended up opening the machine up and testing the solenoid as you suggested. When the solenoid is unplugged, no hot water comes through (as it should be). However, after I reconnected the solenoid, the previous issues magically went away! I still get too much water in a shot once in a while but I can just manually cut it off - not sure if it's worth the effort to repair (and risking messing it up). Thanks for all your help!
Can you send me a picture of the drive circuit on the main circuit board? The black plastic cord that you are talking about, is that inside the solenoid ?
Hi. Thanks very much for the video. It's been a lifesaver. I replaced my 3-way solenoid because I was getting no water to the group head. Now I'm getting group head water but no water to the hot spout or the steam wand. I saw a comment on reddit where a guy said he'd installed the valve the wrong way round. When he turned the valve it solved the problem. I can't find a flow direction symbol on my valve but it does have the numbers 1 on one end and 2 on the other. Are these representative of the flow direction (1 to 2) ? I've installed my valve with the 1 upstream and the 2 downstream. Is it important ? Thanks in advance
See the pinned comment in my water flow video for troubleshooting ideas. But yes, the 3-port solenoid valve is what controls flow to the group head. It needs to turn on and open to send hot water there. When it's off/closed, hot water/steam will still work. Likely the black plastic coil is what burned out (look for signs of burning on it), or perhaps the drive circuit on the main circuit board has burned out.
Sounds like the coil may be partially shorted, mine (120V version) clocks in at 660 ohms: photos.app.goo.gl/HXxLwjCxRLzXF4rF8 You can replace just the coil if you can find one.
Great helpful video. I have an issue with my barista express BES870 with no flow at all to water/steam and grouphead. Suspected pump was the issue but this was tested to be good from disconnecting outlet tubing with strong water flow. Removed the 2-w & 3-w solenoid valves, internals checked to be clean no issue. Thermoblock & tubings were checked to be clear with no blockages, Triac and PCB checked with no obvious visible issue on connection or failures/burnt marks. Now cleaning the 3-w valves just to be sure the internals are clear. Measured the resistance of both solenoid coils and both are reading around 2.4 kOhms (2400 ohms). This looks pretty high. Solenoid coil is JLT 0325K unit, 240V, 9-13.5VA. Have the solenoid coil failed ? I couldn’t find healthy resistance reading from the website. Advice is appreciated. Will reassemble after descaling the 3-w valve, then retest. Thanks
Hot water and steam don't need any solenoid to be energized. See the Water Flow video for troubleshooting steps: ruclips.net/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/видео.htmlsi=z0kdyIXINKXhreJx Open up the back of the machine and peek inside while running the various cycles and see if you can see where the water is going (be careful as there are live electrical connections inside). Might be the over pressure valve is dumping all the water to the drip tray. Solenoid coils are likely OK, they usually fail open or dead short.
Thanks. I reinstalled the solenoid block, ensuring direction is correct, checked in-line filter and confirmed no blockage. Also checked and confirmed no blockage from the 3-way valve to hot water spout and steam nozzle. With water flowing from the top of the solenoid directly to the hot water/steam outlet and with that flow path being “open” all the time on the solenoid as you’ve stated, and the fact there was no hot water/steam, there might be partially blockage in the thermoblock. I blew the tubing on the top (inlet) and could feel air flowing out from the bottom right outlet (line that goes to the 3-w sol). However noted it’s intermittent. Tried poking the inlet path with a trimmer line, but could only get about 4-5 inches in… I think at one point, there was flow of water from the bottom outlet. I think there is some blockage inside the thermablock which somehow got dislodged at that time. Pump was running with the normal vibrating noise of startup but diminishing the more I attempted to run the pump (outlet path blocked, building up pressure to reduce / restrict pump piston movement). No flow from OPV so the OPV might be jammed close or the set pressure too high. There was water in the drip trays but much less suggesting some water flow. I’ll now try to look into the thermablock and try to ensure no blockage. My fear is somehow a tiny piece of o-ring has been dislodged at some point, and now sit inside the channel, restricting flow to a certain extent as it’s being pushed forward when pump runs. I wonder if anyone has successfully pushed a steel line etc all the way through from the inlet to the outlet ? Are there any other means to do this. Don’t think it is scale as the tubing, visible internals of thermablock etc are clean - no sign of calcium scale at all. Any further advice is appreciated. Note - I’ve viewed the video on your link on water flow path already to check for potential blockages - again thanks for all those helpful videos.
Forgot to mention that I’ve measured the supply voltage to the solenoid when energised, it’s 240V confirming no fault with supply. Solenoid is definitely clicking when I tried to brew coffee.
@@timg9647 You might try back flushing the thermo-coil. Connect the line off the pump and overpressure valve to the other side of the thermocoil and see if water comes out that way. I think I recall one viewer comment about running a flexible wire through the coil tubing. Start at the outlet end and work it back to the inlet to try and push the blockage back out where it entered.
Attempting to recheck themocoil for blockage by first disconnecting tubing on the outlet connection (bottom right corner) to experience water under pressure jetting out. I concluded thermocoil is not blocked (I observed similar on the inlet joint several days ago). This shows pressure from water is held in the tubing meaning : - 2 way dump valve / solenoid is not opening or opening just a tiny bit at the end of brew cycle (but not sufficient to release pressure fully). This is in line with my observation of just a small amount of water in the drip tray - suggest potentially the hot water or steam valve is not working as it should release hot water or steam when activated. I confirmed flow path is not restricted on both. With this being a mechanical valve, the most likely issue is no supply of hot water from the top of the 3-w valve. Note when running hot water, the pump was trying to operate but diminishing pulsating (due to blocked outlet). When steaming, the normal pump pulsation can be heard too). - I think there are problems with the solenoid or electronics associated with these on the pcb. Will remove the pcb for a component check and dismantle the solenoids again. Really scratching my head as water doesn’t seem to flow at all, despite “manual check by blowing air through each flow path including from the inlet of the 3-way solenoid valve when energised to the top nozzle to hot water/steam valve” confirming no blockage. But will continue to troubleshoot further.
Thank you for the video. By the sound of failing coils I could say that I have defective one as well. What will happen if I swap them? I dissembled everything but couldn't get 2/3 way plunger to budge so I can clean inside..I soaked it in vinegar overnight( i know vinegar in not good for rubber seals but didn't have anything else). I have breville infuser xl840, and solenoid valve assembly looks the same.
You could swap the solenoid coils although if they are buzzing that usually means the coil is working. The 2/3 way valve is different inside than the 2 way valve. See if you can get the 2/3 way valve open: ruclips.net/video/eljHS_BRJXk/видео.html
Hi mr brown.. On my 3 way valve coil resistance shows 0 probably its blown out, it is a JLT solenoid.Can i buy a ceme solenoid and use that with a 2 way JLT? or both have to be of same company? Also i am wondering how it got blown out as my machine is 5 days old (can't use warranty as I'm out of their coverage area)? Thanks
I think the solenoids are fairly generic. As long as it's the same voltage and has the same size hole in the enter and height, it should work. To fail in a short circuit, it may have overheated and melted the thin insulation around the winding.
@@The4Crawler okay, thanks a ton. One more thing, It would take atleast a month before i get replacement. I was wondering will it be possible if i connect the top of solenoid directly to my group head to pull shots. In that case i would only loose function for steam wand and water spout but atleast get espresso shots. Do you think it is possible?
@@singhtanveer75 It might work, not sure if the control board does any checking to see if the solenoid coil is there or not. Other option is to take the coil off the 2-port valve and use that on the 3-port valve. The 2-port valve only does the purge function at the end, but excess water/steam can also go up to the hot water/steam valve and to the drip tray.
No, never replaced mine. The hot water tubes use small o-rings and spring clips to hold the tube in the fitting: photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59 I think the thermo-coil uses those same type of fittings.
Thanks for the video. My BES820XL does not pass water/steam at all, so I'm looking at this solenoid/valve assembly and wanting to test it. I hear clicks from the solenoid, but the valve only passes air through one of the short fittings, even when actuated with a paper clip through the outlet (long fitting). This valve behavior does not explain my symptoms, as I would have expected something (water or steam) to pass. Other than the current test you explain in this video, is there another way to explicitly test the solenoid itself? I realize it's a magnetic switch, BTW.
Since it is clicking, that says your coil is working, passing electrical current and producing a magnetic field. You can use a magnet to actuate the valve in place of the coil: ruclips.net/video/eljHS_BRJXk/видео.html The plunger in the 3-port valve needs to move all the way from one end of travel to the other in order to seal off the port on the end. If it doesn't seal off the top port, water just flows to the drain pan.
@@The4Crawler Thanks for the tip! I disassembled and cleaned the valve with citric acid, as your video suggests. Tried the magnet trick, but had no luck with 4-5 thin rare earth magnets, but when reassembled in the machine, I am now getting steam, water and coffee!
Hi, I have 870xl, no water though grouphead steam ok. I bought two solanoids on Amazon a 3 way and a 2 way and still doesn't work. I was wondering if I did installed them right direction, since the plastic one don't have arrow. The pum is working. Could you help please. Thank you
A few things to try. One is pull the new valves out and try blowing through the side port and see if air comes out the top port. That's how it should work. If you can't blow air through, it's backwards. You might try this with the old valve and see how it works first. Or, peek inside the back cover with a flashlight while running a shot and see where the water is going: ruclips.net/video/46UBebNJ-uo/видео.html It may be the new 3 way valve isn't opening fully, it may have a bad wiring connection or it may be the driver on the main circuit board is bad and not sending power to turn it on.
A few things to try. One is pull the new valves out and try blowing through the side port and see if air comes out the top port. That's how it should work. If you can't blow air through, it's backwards. You might try this with the old valve and see how it works first. Or, peek inside the back cover with a flashlight while running a shot and see where the water is going: ruclips.net/video/46UBebNJ-uo/видео.html It may be the new 3 way valve isn't opening fully, it may have a bad wiring connection or it may be the driver on the main circuit board is bad and not sending power to turn it on.
The problem is three way solanoid doesn't receive power 118 volt that's what I get on the two way solanoid. So, what is my next step replace the main board?
I would appreciate some advice on my 870 Barrista Ezpress Coffee machine. Water stopped flowing completely. I replace with new pump but still no water. Replacing the solenoid i.e. and I guess it would be the 3 way part. Mine is CEME series 588. Where can I get this from? And as long as it is series 588 will it be the same replacement? Incidentally, I do not hear any buzzing noises despite no water flow. Your advice would be appreciated.
By "Water stopped flowing completely", do you mean no water out anywhere or is it only flowing to the drain pan? If it's going to the drain pan only and/or also to the hot water/steam side, then the solenoid may be clogged. See my video on cleaning it, otherwise search for the solenoid part number on-line and see if you can find it that way. If not, eReplacementparts.com is a source, although they only have the entire solenoid set and bracket. If no water is flowing, even into the drain pan, then there's likely a clog somewhere. Check the inlet filter before the pump and also remove and check all the hoses between the pump and the solenoids. Take one off at a time and try blowing through it.
Thanks for all the informative videos. Do either of those solenoids control the pump at the very beginning when you first power on the machine? I can’t find a wiring diagram online. My pump doesn’t turn on anymore. Took it out of the machine, put 120 on it and it ran water through it no problem. I did that multiple times and had no issues. I re-installed it and all I get is the coil humming. Voltage checks out okay but it seems the current isn’t what it should be. Out of the machine it pulled .6A and in the machine it’s only pulling .2. Any suggestions?
No, the solenoids are just valves that change where the water flows. You might check this web page for some troubleshooting ideas: siber-sonic.com/appliance/800Electrical.html It's an older model machine, but apparently they are quite similar inside. You might also try re-seating the pump connections on the main circuit board. If that doesn't help, it's probably a fault on that board, might be able to repair it or replacements are available. In these machines, everything feeds into and out of the main board. It controls all the solenoids, the pump, LEDs, etc. and it also reads all the switches.
@@The4Crawler Thanks for sending me that link. It does have a lot of good info. I checked the board and all of the components and they appear to be functioning properly. I installed the pump back into the machine, ran 120 to it (bypassed the board) and now it just hums again. When I ran the pump out of the machine, I ran it in a horizontal position to shoot the water away from me. Now I am wondering if it is the pump (mechanical portion).
@@mclellat It may be something is clogging the check valve in the outlet of the pump or those parts have worn out. There are videos on servicing that part.
thank you for excellent videos you are the best ! I have try to replace the solenoid and one of the yellow cable to the thermostat (go to boiler with 2 notes ) was broken near to the head so I can't fix it now, do you know what to do ? thank you
Not sure if that's available separately or not. The thermo-coil is: www.ereplacementparts.com/thermocoil-comp-assembly-p-1810364.html Maybe contact Breville directly and see if they have that part.
@@The4Crawler Hey I have also search for this parts but without any luck ! I will try to contact them maybe will get answer about it ... I gets lots of problems with this machine :) thank you for your hard work ! I learn a lot from it
When you tested this solenoid, did you apply 120 v to both side terminals, and ground to the 3rd ground terminal? I'm trying to come up with a bench test for my solenoid.
Yes, AC voltage across the two side terminals. The 3rd terminal is for ground, not strictly needed for testing but it does tie all the metal parts of the valve to ground for safety.
@@The4Crawler to clarify, do I apply a complete circuit, i.e., power on one terminal and neutral on other. Or do I apply 120v on each side individually? I tried the latter and that did not work.
@@cpabrego Yes, 2 connections, 120V to one side terminal, neutral to the other, just like a light bulb. Makes no difference which terminal is 120V and neutral.
@@The4Crawler thank you, I'm in the process of troubleshooting my water level controller giemma (RL30) and I cant figure out whats the matter. After main power switch burned out and was replaced, water level control is no longer working. Thought it was either the solenoid or controller but new components didnt change behavior.
An meiner Barista landet das Wasser manchmal auch komplett in der Auffangschale und es baut sich kein Druck auf. Entweder klemmt ein Ventil, oder ist verkalkt. Die letzten 20 Bezüge waren wieder einwandfrei, nachdem ich entkalkt habe.
"At my barista, the water sometimes ends up completely in the drip tray and no pressure builds up. Either a valve is stuck or calcified. The last 20 covers were perfect again after I decalcified." "Yes, it sounds like the 3-port solenoid valve may not be opening fully. When that happens, it doesn't seal off the port to the drip tray. Try opening it up and cleaning it:" Ja, es hört sich so an, als würde das 3-Wege-Magnetventil möglicherweise nicht vollständig öffnen. Wenn das passiert, dichtet es den Anschluss zur Tropfschale nicht ab. Versuchen Sie, es zu öffnen und zu reinigen: ruclips.net/video/eljHS_BRJXk/видео.html
@@The4Crawler Nach dem entkalken ist das Problem nicht mehr aufgetreten. Bevor ich ein neues Ventil kaufe, werde ich zuerst das Ventil auseinander bauen und versuche den Fehler zu finden, um es zu reparieren. Vielleicht klemmt es nur, oder es ist Kalk im Ventil.
I did clean the valve out in a follow-up video: ruclips.net/video/eljHS_BRJXk/видео.html I had already purchased replacement valves and had installed those when I removed this one. I'm keeping this one as a spare.
Great videos! I changed my 3-way solenoide thanks to this video although I have a second issue. The solenoide gets activated as soon as plug the machine (machine turned off). I tested the transistor powering the orange cable (TA4) on the main board and it is shorted. Unfortunately I cannot see the part number on it to order it. My machine is the BES870XL. If you happen to know what transistor I should buy it would be appreciated.
Ich schalte meine Sage immer komplett vom Netz. Sobald ich die Netzspannung zuschalte, hört man ein kurzes "Klack", also schaltet dann ein Ventil um, obwohl die Sage nicht eingeschaltet ist. Das ist ganz bestimmt richtig so und kein Fehler.
Hey, Thank you for the video. By any chance you can share where you got the CEME block from? Tried your link from the video and it pulls from ereolacementparts for the olab, being trying for a while, I appreciate any help, Thank you
Source for the Ceme solenoid block I purchased in the video description of the previous video: ruclips.net/video/96IuKiuIB5A/видео.html And it was from ereplacementparts.com.
Thank you, can’t seem to find the CEME block on that site, only find the Olab and it’s on factory back order, is it the same part number? ... I appreciate your help.
@@ernestesmart5158 That's the link and part number I ordered from. Don't recall the if the part image matched the part I received or not. Have heard that if you get the p/n off that site and then contact Breville directly, you can order the part from them and likely get it faster, assuming they have it in stock. Or take the p/n and search on-line for it. I understand that Breville changed the valve brand a few years back, but left the p/n the same.
@@The4Crawler have the same problem now. My olab solenoid made on 25.09.14, but technically it is the same as yours (6000-9000). I'm wondering, is it worth buying Olab from ebay, or worth trying to find CEME
I would go for the replacement Ceme solenoids, they seem to work much better than the Olab parts. I hear you can get the solenoid block from Breville for under US$50, you'll pay over $40 for a single Olab solenoid on eBay. Maybe the newer Olab parts work better, but I recall mine was acting up intermittently even when my machine was new.
I show more of the disassembly in this video: ruclips.net/video/eljHS_BRJXk/видео.html The nut on top lets you remove the coil from the valve. The 2/3 way valve has a hex at the base and you can unscrew that to remove the top of that valve. I couldn't figure out how to open the 2 way valve on the other end, it seems to be pressed together.
@@The4Crawler Thanks! that was super helpful. I'm going to try that. I had the same problem couldn't turn it no matter what i did. I'm going to try soaking the valve first and seeing if it comes off.
@@The4Crawler if you clamp the base of the valve, the top threaded part where the 14mm hex goes unscrews . It's quite tight, and a very fine thread. There's a spring and piston in the body, piston has a seal at the bottom. I found the assembly was full of fine coffee grounds. I think that valve is the pressure relief for the head. (FYI I removed remove the plastic spigots from the valve body (12mm hex) so I could clamp it in soft jaw vice without damage)
I have zero experience. Im looking to see if I can fix my machine myself and save on service costs. Is this only advised for those that have experience?
This was my first time inside this espresso machine, but I have repaired other appliances. Check out the repair videos as well as the water flow video so you can understand how the machine works inside and try to narrow down the source of whatever problem you are having. It might be something that can be solved by running a few descaling cycles.
@@The4Crawler thank you. Yes I've had a look at your thorough videos, excellent stuff, thanks very much. I might at least open it up, and see if it's just a descale soak as you've also shown in some videos. 🤞
Regarding the Breville solenoid testing. So to begin, don’t have a Quick Test device. Am I to understand that if I put 110v across the two vertical prongs, it should activate the solenoid with a click, right? Does the ground need to be attached for testing?
@@tfonte1027 Yes, AC line voltage across the two vertical prongs, polarity doesn't matter. Connecting ground makes it safer in case there's a short between the coil and the valve block, but as long as you have it on an insulated surface and don't touch it while powered up, it could be left off. You could grab an old power cord, crimp on some spade terminals on the wires on the end and then plug that into a power strip with an on/off switch.
As it turns out, neither solenoid clicked. Took the valve bodies apart and soaked in vinegar until the plungers moved smoothly. Problem solved. Thanks again.
Love the explanations, I wish I had the test bench, but you showing the noise on the failing valve will probably help me. I think I have the same noise on a non-disasembled olab solenoid assembly .
@@jankesken47 Yes, the meter shows 0.660Kohms which would be 660 ohms. That displayed value will depend on how your meter displays resistance values in that range. The exact value is likely not critical, only values close to 0 or infinite would indicate a short or open circuit condition.
@@The4Crawler OK. I have a solenoid valve from Gastroback 42612 . On one shows the value = 1.877kΩ, and on the other it shows nothing. What do you think?
@@jankesken47 If that's a 240V solenoid, that 1.8K value is probably OK, higher voltage = higher coil resistance needed. The one that shows nothing is likely defective, meaning the wire that makes up the solenoid coil has burned out internally and gone open circuit.
does anyone know the resistance of the coils? im pretty sure that my coils are bad! one was reading infinity and the other reads 1kilo ohm? Thanks! Both are OLABS! Im planning on changing the coils with a cheap chinese solenoid its seems my case is electrical and no so much mecanical.
You'll find that information in my Google photo album, link below: photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59 Scroll down to the bottom of the list. This is for the 120V version, 240V version likely around double the resistance.
Mr Brown thanks so much for your videos. I just replaced the Solenoid Group as it seemed to have a blown or stuck 3 way valve. Unfortunately after the replacement the new 3 way is not switching to the steam/water output on top, so I get steam and water through the group head. One question, should the 3 way solenoid Click when you plug-in the machine ? Mine does but it doesn’t when I select water or steam output. Any ideas? It had been without proper descaling for a long time. (I have another spare 3 way solenoid valve, but would like to understand the issue first. What should the voltage feeding the valve be with the steam switch on standby? And on with Steam/Water selected ? Thanks so much if you can take a few minutes to answer. All the best.
The 3-port valve should only click on for the espresso cycle, as you can see with the indicator lights I added to my machine: ruclips.net/video/9cC-m3a-oXY/видео.html I don't think anything clicks in my machine when it's plugged in and only the pump runs for a short bit when you turn the machine on. There should be close to 0 volts on the solenoids in standby mode. You might see a few volts due to leakage current in the driver circuits, for example I see a dim glow in my indicator lights at night on my machine and you will get a tingle off the terminals if you touch them while the machine is plugged in. No valves operate in hot water or steam mode, only the pump. Water should flow up out of the normally open top port of the 3-way valve.
@@The4Crawler Thanks so much, that helps a lot. I have 120 Volts on the 3 way valve terminals even when the power is off. Which must be what is keeping the valve open regardless of the cycle it’s in. As a result I get hot water/steam through the group head. Double checked the valve’s terminal connections with your video and my pictures and it’s correct, so I must have a shorted or blown diode in the electrical. Have you come across a wiring diagram available on-line for this machine ? Thanks again.
@@tupublicoful This is the closest thing I've found: siber-sonic.com/appliance/800Electrical.html It's for an earlier version. Might trace the wires back to the main circuit board and see if they're connected to the right location. A possible fix is to add an in-line switch to that solenoid. Open the switch and that'll turn it off for hot water/steam, close the switch and it'll run the brew cycle.
@@The4Crawler BTW I fixed my machine. Had to replace Solenoids and the main PC board, only the TRIAC didn’t do the trick. A brown out probably fried the board. Thanks so much for your help.
@@tupublicoful Thanks for the update, glad you got it working again. Sure sounds like something with the electrical system took out the machine. Might almost pay to put it on a line-interactive UPS. Would have to be a powerful enough UPS to handle the load of the machine if needed. But for brownouts/surges, those models can step the voltage up or down as needed or switch off the grid if the incoming power is too bad.
now that's a solenoid test video - excellent presentation
Glad you liked it!
Thank for the video. My BES875 trips the RCD breaker when pressing singe/double shot expresso. Steamer and grinder work fine. Resistance on CEME 588 is 2.3 kOhm. I checked machine with Live line disconnected for 2/3 ways valve and it did not tripped the RCD. I will try to replace valve with a new one and have a go.
It may then be the coil on that solenoid valve. Maybe the coil is damaged and allowing electrical connection to ground internally.
Excellent demo helped me a lot, I am going to sort mine now.
Glad it helped
Can you show where you have gotten the Ceme solenoind assembly from, and the part number? (I am also interested in the fittings, too, in case mine break.) I have heard of using non-OEM valves, but until now, knew nothing of who or where they were available. You are correct, as far as getting them from Europe, I ordered some Olab valves, but it takes about a month to come. Thanks.
Parts source is in the video description of the installation video, a bit earlier in this playlist.
ruclips.net/video/yPZCZxlEU6Q/видео.html
It seems Breville changed from the Olab parts to the Ceme parts around 2017, so both are "OEM". My part numbers are of course for the 120V/60Hz solenoids. The only difference between the various voltages is the black plastic coil that fits on top of the valve, so if you can't find the right voltage valve, it's easy enough to swap coils between valves. There seem to be 24V, 120V, 240V models out there.
Thanks for the video. My BES870 started malfunctioning a few days ago. I believe the issue traces back to a bad solenoid but I am not 100% sure. I was hoping to get your expert opinion. Here are the symptoms:
-- When the machine starts up, the pump draws water from the tank and sounds normal.
-- When switched into hot water mode, the pump used to make a thumping noise at regular intervals. This is no longer happening. The thumping sound is gone. Very little hot water comes out, if any. Instead, I get a small amount of steam from the hot water spout. I also hear an "electrical current noise" similar to that at timestamp 3:10 of your video.
-- When switched into steam mode, again, the thumping pump noise is gone. Very low steam pressure. Same noise as hot water mode.
-- When I try to pull a shot, the pump starts quieter than normal but sometimes recovers towards the end of the cycle. The total volume of the shot is smaller than normal.
Separate from this, the machine sometimes produces shots much larger than normal. This has been going on for longer and I think it's a problem of the flow meter.
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
Check the 2 micro switches at the hot water / steam valve, those control hot water and steam modes (i.e. make the thumbing pump sounds). Those switches (as well as the flow sensor) are pointed out in this video:
ruclips.net/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/видео.htmlsi=3s_Wig5GuBh3UP7A
Variable shot volume, suspect the water flow sensor as that's what tells the machine how much water has flowed. Sensor may be partly clogged and that's causing the variable volume readings.
@@The4Crawler Thanks for the quick reply!! Which component makes the thumping sound? Is it the pump?
I think the micro switches do work because when I turn the hot water / steam knob, the machine does recognize that hot water / steam is requested. It just has trouble delivering them. After watching your other video, I think the right solenoid (the one that splits flow between the group head and hot water / steam) seems to be the component that ties my symptoms together. Does that sound reasonable?
I had been confused about why the pump sounded normal at startup but now it makes a lot of sense because the startup pumping action is controlled by the left solenoid, so thanks for explaining that!
@@arthurcao4469 The pump makes the thumping noise as it cycles on and off, especially in steam mode, Why? Steam is ~1000 times less dense than liquid water, so it takes much less pumped water to make steam. Solenoids should all be off in hot water / steam mode, as shown in the water flow video. One simple test is to unplug the wires to the solenoid valves (be careful to unplug the machine first and wrap all the connectors in electrical tape). Then run hot water or steam cycle and if it now works, that means the solenoids might be getting powered when they shouldn't.
Could also be the 3-port valve is partly clogged and not fully closing when it's off. This will let part of the water flow up to the hot water / steam valve and part to the group head and/or drip tray if the 2-port solenoid is also clogged.
ruclips.net/video/eljHS_BRJXk/видео.htmlsi=94vdNC5jsF1xY4bm
@@The4Crawler I ended up opening the machine up and testing the solenoid as you suggested. When the solenoid is unplugged, no hot water comes through (as it should be). However, after I reconnected the solenoid, the previous issues magically went away! I still get too much water in a shot once in a while but I can just manually cut it off - not sure if it's worth the effort to repair (and risking messing it up). Thanks for all your help!
Can you send me a picture of the drive circuit on the main circuit board?
The black plastic cord that you are talking about, is that inside the solenoid ?
See the photo album below:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
Should be a link to that in many of the videos in this playlist as well.
Hi. Thanks very much for the video. It's been a lifesaver. I replaced my 3-way solenoid because I was getting no water to the group head. Now I'm getting group head water but no water to the hot spout or the steam wand. I saw a comment on reddit where a guy said he'd installed the valve the wrong way round. When he turned the valve it solved the problem. I can't find a flow direction symbol on my valve but it does have the numbers 1 on one end and 2 on the other. Are these representative of the flow direction (1 to 2) ? I've installed my valve with the 1 upstream and the 2 downstream. Is it important ?
Thanks in advance
If I am getting no pressure and no water coming out from the cappuccino maker, but I do have steam and hot water for tea. Would it be the solenoid?
See the pinned comment in my water flow video for troubleshooting ideas. But yes, the 3-port solenoid valve is what controls flow to the group head. It needs to turn on and open to send hot water there. When it's off/closed, hot water/steam will still work. Likely the black plastic coil is what burned out (look for signs of burning on it), or perhaps the drive circuit on the main circuit board has burned out.
Hi there. Has my solonoid valve gone bad? I removed my solonoid and tested it. It has 10 ohms (tested with multimeter)
Sounds like the coil may be partially shorted, mine (120V version) clocks in at 660 ohms:
photos.app.goo.gl/HXxLwjCxRLzXF4rF8
You can replace just the coil if you can find one.
Great helpful video. I have an issue with my barista express BES870 with no flow at all to water/steam and grouphead. Suspected pump was the issue but this was tested to be good from disconnecting outlet tubing with strong water flow. Removed the 2-w & 3-w solenoid valves, internals checked to be clean no issue. Thermoblock & tubings were checked to be clear with no blockages, Triac and PCB checked with no obvious visible issue on connection or failures/burnt marks. Now cleaning the 3-w valves just to be sure the internals are clear. Measured the resistance of both solenoid coils and both are reading around 2.4 kOhms (2400 ohms). This looks pretty high. Solenoid coil is JLT 0325K unit, 240V, 9-13.5VA. Have the solenoid coil failed ? I couldn’t find healthy resistance reading from the website. Advice is appreciated. Will reassemble after descaling the 3-w valve, then retest. Thanks
Hot water and steam don't need any solenoid to be energized. See the Water Flow video for troubleshooting steps:
ruclips.net/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/видео.htmlsi=z0kdyIXINKXhreJx
Open up the back of the machine and peek inside while running the various cycles and see if you can see where the water is going (be careful as there are live electrical connections inside). Might be the over pressure valve is dumping all the water to the drip tray. Solenoid coils are likely OK, they usually fail open or dead short.
Thanks. I reinstalled the solenoid block, ensuring direction is correct, checked in-line filter and confirmed no blockage. Also checked and confirmed no blockage from the 3-way valve to hot water spout and steam nozzle. With water flowing from the top of the solenoid directly to the hot water/steam outlet and with that flow path being “open” all the time on the solenoid as you’ve stated, and the fact there was no hot water/steam, there might be partially blockage in the thermoblock. I blew the tubing on the top (inlet) and could feel air flowing out from the bottom right outlet (line that goes to the 3-w sol). However noted it’s intermittent. Tried poking the inlet path with a trimmer line, but could only get about 4-5 inches in… I think at one point, there was flow of water from the bottom outlet. I think there is some blockage inside the thermablock which somehow got dislodged at that time. Pump was running with the normal vibrating noise of startup but diminishing the more I attempted to run the pump (outlet path blocked, building up pressure to reduce / restrict pump piston movement). No flow from OPV so the OPV might be jammed close or the set pressure too high. There was water in the drip trays but much less suggesting some water flow. I’ll now try to look into the thermablock and try to ensure no blockage. My fear is somehow a tiny piece of o-ring has been dislodged at some point, and now sit inside the channel, restricting flow to a certain extent as it’s being pushed forward when pump runs. I wonder if anyone has successfully pushed a steel line etc all the way through from the inlet to the outlet ? Are there any other means to do this. Don’t think it is scale as the tubing, visible internals of thermablock etc are clean - no sign of calcium scale at all. Any further advice is appreciated. Note - I’ve viewed the video on your link on water flow path already to check for potential blockages - again thanks for all those helpful videos.
Forgot to mention that I’ve measured the supply voltage to the solenoid when energised, it’s 240V confirming no fault with supply. Solenoid is definitely clicking when I tried to brew coffee.
@@timg9647 You might try back flushing the thermo-coil. Connect the line off the pump and overpressure valve to the other side of the thermocoil and see if water comes out that way. I think I recall one viewer comment about running a flexible wire through the coil tubing. Start at the outlet end and work it back to the inlet to try and push the blockage back out where it entered.
Attempting to recheck themocoil for blockage by first disconnecting tubing on the outlet connection (bottom right corner) to experience water under pressure jetting out. I concluded thermocoil is not blocked (I observed similar on the inlet joint several days ago). This shows pressure from water is held in the tubing meaning :
- 2 way dump valve / solenoid is not opening or opening just a tiny bit at the end of brew cycle (but not sufficient to release pressure fully). This is in line with my observation of just a small amount of water in the drip tray
- suggest potentially the hot water or steam valve is not working as it should release hot water or steam when activated. I confirmed flow path is not restricted on both. With this being a mechanical valve, the most likely issue is no supply of hot water from the top of the 3-w valve. Note when running hot water, the pump was trying to operate but diminishing pulsating (due to blocked outlet). When steaming, the normal pump pulsation can be heard too).
- I think there are problems with the solenoid or electronics associated with these on the pcb. Will remove the pcb for a component check and dismantle the solenoids again.
Really scratching my head as water doesn’t seem to flow at all, despite “manual check by blowing air through each flow path including from the inlet of the 3-way solenoid valve when energised to the top nozzle to hot water/steam valve” confirming no blockage. But will continue to troubleshoot further.
Thank you for the video. By the sound of failing coils I could say that I have defective one as well. What will happen if I swap them? I dissembled everything but couldn't get 2/3 way plunger to budge so I can clean inside..I soaked it in vinegar overnight( i know vinegar in not good for rubber seals but didn't have anything else).
I have breville infuser xl840, and solenoid valve assembly looks the same.
You could swap the solenoid coils although if they are buzzing that usually means the coil is working. The 2/3 way valve is different inside than the 2 way valve. See if you can get the 2/3 way valve open:
ruclips.net/video/eljHS_BRJXk/видео.html
Hi mr brown..
On my 3 way valve coil resistance shows 0 probably its blown out, it is a JLT solenoid.Can i buy a ceme solenoid and use that with a 2 way JLT? or both have to be of same company?
Also i am wondering how it got blown out as my machine is 5 days old (can't use warranty as I'm out of their coverage area)?
Thanks
I think the solenoids are fairly generic. As long as it's the same voltage and has the same size hole in the enter and height, it should work. To fail in a short circuit, it may have overheated and melted the thin insulation around the winding.
@@The4Crawler okay, thanks a ton. One more thing, It would take atleast a month before i get replacement. I was wondering will it be possible if i connect the top of solenoid directly to my group head to pull shots. In that case i would only loose function for steam wand and water spout but atleast get espresso shots. Do you think it is possible?
@@singhtanveer75 It might work, not sure if the control board does any checking to see if the solenoid coil is there or not. Other option is to take the coil off the 2-port valve and use that on the 3-port valve. The 2-port valve only does the purge function at the end, but excess water/steam can also go up to the hot water/steam valve and to the drip tray.
Hey have you ever replaced the thermocoil? Connected it all back you but can’t see how the water connect securely ? When I run it hot water leaks out
No, never replaced mine. The hot water tubes use small o-rings and spring clips to hold the tube in the fitting:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
I think the thermo-coil uses those same type of fittings.
Thanks for the video. My BES820XL does not pass water/steam at all, so I'm looking at this solenoid/valve assembly and wanting to test it. I hear clicks from the solenoid, but the valve only passes air through one of the short fittings, even when actuated with a paper clip through the outlet (long fitting). This valve behavior does not explain my symptoms, as I would have expected something (water or steam) to pass. Other than the current test you explain in this video, is there another way to explicitly test the solenoid itself? I realize it's a magnetic switch, BTW.
Since it is clicking, that says your coil is working, passing electrical current and producing a magnetic field.
You can use a magnet to actuate the valve in place of the coil:
ruclips.net/video/eljHS_BRJXk/видео.html
The plunger in the 3-port valve needs to move all the way from one end of travel to the other in order to seal off the port on the end. If it doesn't seal off the top port, water just flows to the drain pan.
@@The4Crawler Thanks for the tip! I will disassemble as your video instructs and clean out the valve with citric acid as my next step.
@@The4Crawler Thanks for the tip! I disassembled and cleaned the valve with citric acid, as your video suggests. Tried the magnet trick, but had no luck with 4-5 thin rare earth magnets, but when reassembled in the machine, I am now getting steam, water and coffee!
have a Sage Barista Express, (same as Breville), bought it in 2020, fortunaly it has default Ceme valve's.
Good to know, thanks for the comment.
Excellent demo, thanks
Glad you liked it!
Hi, I have 870xl, no water though grouphead steam ok. I bought two solanoids on Amazon a 3 way and a 2 way and still doesn't work. I was wondering if I did installed them right direction, since the plastic one don't have arrow. The pum is working.
Could you help please.
Thank you
A few things to try. One is pull the new valves out and try blowing through the side port and see if air comes out the top port. That's how it should work. If you can't blow air through, it's backwards. You might try this with the old valve and see how it works first.
Or, peek inside the back cover with a flashlight while running a shot and see where the water is going:
ruclips.net/video/46UBebNJ-uo/видео.html
It may be the new 3 way valve isn't opening fully, it may have a bad wiring connection or it may be the driver on the main circuit board is bad and not sending power to turn it on.
A few things to try. One is pull the new valves out and try blowing through the side port and see if air comes out the top port. That's how it should work. If you can't blow air through, it's backwards. You might try this with the old valve and see how it works first.
Or, peek inside the back cover with a flashlight while running a shot and see where the water is going:
ruclips.net/video/46UBebNJ-uo/видео.html
It may be the new 3 way valve isn't opening fully, it may have a bad wiring connection or it may be the driver on the main circuit board is bad and not sending power to turn it on.
The problem is three way solanoid doesn't receive power 118 volt that's what I get on the two way solanoid. So, what is my next step replace the main board?
@@dans9462 Either the board or the Triac on the board if you're set up to do that:
photos.app.goo.gl/T43teAq43822v8zc6
@@The4Crawler Thank you for the information. The board itself is ok I think just the triac. But where can I buy it?
I would appreciate some advice on my 870 Barrista Ezpress Coffee machine. Water stopped flowing completely. I replace with new pump but still no water. Replacing the solenoid i.e. and I guess it would be the 3 way part. Mine is CEME series 588. Where can I get this from? And as long as it is series 588 will it be the same replacement? Incidentally, I do not hear any buzzing noises despite no water flow. Your advice would be appreciated.
By "Water stopped flowing completely", do you mean no water out anywhere or is it only flowing to the drain pan? If it's going to the drain pan only and/or also to the hot water/steam side, then the solenoid may be clogged. See my video on cleaning it, otherwise search for the solenoid part number on-line and see if you can find it that way. If not, eReplacementparts.com is a source, although they only have the entire solenoid set and bracket.
If no water is flowing, even into the drain pan, then there's likely a clog somewhere. Check the inlet filter before the pump and also remove and check all the hoses between the pump and the solenoids. Take one off at a time and try blowing through it.
Thanks for all the informative videos.
Do either of those solenoids control the pump at the very beginning when you first power on the machine? I can’t find a wiring diagram online.
My pump doesn’t turn on anymore. Took it out of the machine, put 120 on it and it ran water through it no problem. I did that multiple times and had no issues. I re-installed it and all I get is the coil humming. Voltage checks out okay but it seems the current isn’t what it should be. Out of the machine it pulled .6A and in the machine it’s only pulling .2.
Any suggestions?
No, the solenoids are just valves that change where the water flows. You might check this web page for some troubleshooting ideas:
siber-sonic.com/appliance/800Electrical.html
It's an older model machine, but apparently they are quite similar inside. You might also try re-seating the pump connections on the main circuit board. If that doesn't help, it's probably a fault on that board, might be able to repair it or replacements are available. In these machines, everything feeds into and out of the main board. It controls all the solenoids, the pump, LEDs, etc. and it also reads all the switches.
@@The4Crawler Thanks for sending me that link. It does have a lot of good info.
I checked the board and all of the components and they appear to be functioning properly. I installed the pump back into the machine, ran 120 to it (bypassed the board) and now it just hums again. When I ran the pump out of the machine, I ran it in a horizontal position to shoot the water away from me. Now I am wondering if it is the pump (mechanical portion).
@@mclellat It may be something is clogging the check valve in the outlet of the pump or those parts have worn out. There are videos on servicing that part.
thank you for excellent videos you are the best !
I have try to replace the solenoid and one of the yellow cable to the thermostat (go to boiler with 2 notes ) was broken near to the head so I can't fix it now, do you know what to do ? thank you
Not sure if that's available separately or not. The thermo-coil is:
www.ereplacementparts.com/thermocoil-comp-assembly-p-1810364.html
Maybe contact Breville directly and see if they have that part.
@@The4Crawler Hey I have also search for this parts but without any luck ! I will try to contact them maybe will get answer about it ... I gets lots of problems with this machine :) thank you for your hard work ! I learn a lot from it
When you tested this solenoid, did you apply 120 v to both side terminals, and ground to the 3rd ground terminal? I'm trying to come up with a bench test for my solenoid.
Yes, AC voltage across the two side terminals. The 3rd terminal is for ground, not strictly needed for testing but it does tie all the metal parts of the valve to ground for safety.
@@The4Crawler to clarify, do I apply a complete circuit, i.e., power on one terminal and neutral on other. Or do I apply 120v on each side individually? I tried the latter and that did not work.
@@cpabrego Yes, 2 connections, 120V to one side terminal, neutral to the other, just like a light bulb. Makes no difference which terminal is 120V and neutral.
@@The4Crawler thank you, I'm in the process of troubleshooting my water level controller giemma (RL30) and I cant figure out whats the matter. After main power switch burned out and was replaced, water level control is no longer working. Thought it was either the solenoid or controller but new components didnt change behavior.
An meiner Barista landet das Wasser manchmal auch komplett in der Auffangschale und es baut sich kein Druck auf.
Entweder klemmt ein Ventil, oder ist verkalkt.
Die letzten 20 Bezüge waren wieder einwandfrei, nachdem ich entkalkt habe.
"At my barista, the water sometimes ends up completely in the drip tray and no pressure builds up. Either a valve is stuck or calcified. The last 20 covers were perfect again after I decalcified."
"Yes, it sounds like the 3-port solenoid valve may not be opening fully. When that happens, it doesn't seal off the port to the drip tray. Try opening it up and cleaning it:"
Ja, es hört sich so an, als würde das 3-Wege-Magnetventil möglicherweise nicht vollständig öffnen. Wenn das passiert, dichtet es den Anschluss zur Tropfschale nicht ab. Versuchen Sie, es zu öffnen und zu reinigen:
ruclips.net/video/eljHS_BRJXk/видео.html
@@The4Crawler Nach dem entkalken ist das Problem nicht mehr aufgetreten.
Bevor ich ein neues Ventil kaufe, werde ich zuerst das Ventil auseinander bauen und versuche den Fehler zu finden, um es zu reparieren. Vielleicht klemmt es nur, oder es ist Kalk im Ventil.
Nice video. Did you have to replace the valve or could it be cleaned and just re-install
I did clean the valve out in a follow-up video:
ruclips.net/video/eljHS_BRJXk/видео.html
I had already purchased replacement valves and had installed those when I removed this one. I'm keeping this one as a spare.
Great videos! I changed my 3-way solenoide thanks to this video although I have a second issue. The solenoide gets activated as soon as plug the machine (machine turned off). I tested the transistor powering the orange cable (TA4) on the main board and it is shorted. Unfortunately I cannot see the part number on it to order it. My machine is the BES870XL.
If you happen to know what transistor I should buy it would be appreciated.
Check out the comment by Mike Henderson about 2 weeks ago in this video:
ruclips.net/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/видео.html
Ich schalte meine Sage immer komplett vom Netz.
Sobald ich die Netzspannung zuschalte, hört man ein kurzes "Klack", also schaltet dann ein Ventil um, obwohl die Sage nicht eingeschaltet ist. Das ist ganz bestimmt richtig so und kein Fehler.
Mine does this exact issue but it the blue wire that's constantly activated. Any ideas?
Hey, Thank you for the video. By any chance you can share where you got the CEME block from? Tried your link from the video and it pulls from ereolacementparts for the olab, being trying for a while, I appreciate any help, Thank you
Source for the Ceme solenoid block I purchased in the video description of the previous video:
ruclips.net/video/96IuKiuIB5A/видео.html
And it was from ereplacementparts.com.
Thank you, can’t seem to find the CEME block on that site, only find the Olab and it’s on factory back order, is it the same part number? ... I appreciate your help.
@@ernestesmart5158 That's the link and part number I ordered from. Don't recall the if the part image matched the part I received or not. Have heard that if you get the p/n off that site and then contact Breville directly, you can order the part from them and likely get it faster, assuming they have it in stock. Or take the p/n and search on-line for it. I understand that Breville changed the valve brand a few years back, but left the p/n the same.
Thank you, will try to contact them directly.
So awesome. Had the same issue, however the warranty solved! But thanks for sharing!!!
Glad you were able to get this repaired under warranty. Mine's old enough to be out of warranty.
@@The4Crawler have the same problem now. My olab solenoid made on 25.09.14, but technically it is the same as yours (6000-9000). I'm wondering, is it worth buying Olab from ebay, or worth trying to find CEME
I would go for the replacement Ceme solenoids, they seem to work much better than the Olab parts. I hear you can get the solenoid block from Breville for under US$50, you'll pay over $40 for a single Olab solenoid on eBay. Maybe the newer Olab parts work better, but I recall mine was acting up intermittently even when my machine was new.
Do you mind letting me know how you disassembled the value from the Olab coil? i can't see to get it off.
I show more of the disassembly in this video:
ruclips.net/video/eljHS_BRJXk/видео.html
The nut on top lets you remove the coil from the valve. The 2/3 way valve has a hex at the base and you can unscrew that to remove the top of that valve. I couldn't figure out how to open the 2 way valve on the other end, it seems to be pressed together.
@@The4Crawler Thanks! that was super helpful. I'm going to try that. I had the same problem couldn't turn it no matter what i did. I'm going to try soaking the valve first and seeing if it comes off.
@@The4Crawler if you clamp the base of the valve, the top threaded part where the 14mm hex goes unscrews . It's quite tight, and a very fine thread. There's a spring and piston in the body, piston has a seal at the bottom. I found the assembly was full of fine coffee grounds. I think that valve is the pressure relief for the head. (FYI I removed remove the plastic spigots from the valve body (12mm hex) so I could clamp it in soft jaw vice without damage)
I have zero experience. Im looking to see if I can fix my machine myself and save on service costs. Is this only advised for those that have experience?
This was my first time inside this espresso machine, but I have repaired other appliances. Check out the repair videos as well as the water flow video so you can understand how the machine works inside and try to narrow down the source of whatever problem you are having. It might be something that can be solved by running a few descaling cycles.
@@The4Crawler thank you. Yes I've had a look at your thorough videos, excellent stuff, thanks very much. I might at least open it up, and see if it's just a descale soak as you've also shown in some videos. 🤞
These Barista Express videos are very helpful. Any idea if the 860XL uses the same solenoid as the 870XL. Can’t find much online.
It appears to use the same solenoid valves:
www.ereplacementparts.com/solenoid-valve-assembly-p-629955.html
Regarding the Breville solenoid testing. So to begin, don’t have a Quick Test device. Am I to understand that if I put 110v across the two vertical prongs, it should activate the solenoid with a click, right? Does the ground need to be attached for testing?
@@tfonte1027 Yes, AC line voltage across the two vertical prongs, polarity doesn't matter. Connecting ground makes it safer in case there's a short between the coil and the valve block, but as long as you have it on an insulated surface and don't touch it while powered up, it could be left off. You could grab an old power cord, crimp on some spade terminals on the wires on the end and then plug that into a power strip with an on/off switch.
As it turns out, neither solenoid clicked. Took the valve bodies apart and soaked in vinegar until the plungers moved smoothly. Problem solved. Thanks again.
@@tfonte1027 Glad you got it working again!
Love the explanations, I wish I had the test bench, but you showing the noise on the failing valve will probably help me. I think I have the same noise on a non-disasembled olab solenoid assembly .
Thanks for the comment. Yes, it's a pretty distinctive sound when the valve hangs up part way open.
What is the value of the magnetic coil ohm?
Check the photo album link in the video description, specifically this photo:
photos.app.goo.gl/ML3GqQLEyC3KVcQZA
Around 660 ohms on the Olab coils.
@@The4Crawler You gave you a value in kΩ ... enter in Ω
@@jankesken47 Yes, the meter shows 0.660Kohms which would be 660 ohms. That displayed value will depend on how your meter displays resistance values in that range. The exact value is likely not critical, only values close to 0 or infinite would indicate a short or open circuit condition.
@@The4Crawler OK. I have a solenoid valve from Gastroback 42612 . On one shows the value = 1.877kΩ, and on the other it shows nothing. What do you think?
@@jankesken47 If that's a 240V solenoid, that 1.8K value is probably OK, higher voltage = higher coil resistance needed. The one that shows nothing is likely defective, meaning the wire that makes up the solenoid coil has burned out internally and gone open circuit.
does anyone know the resistance of the coils? im pretty sure that my coils are bad! one was reading infinity and the other reads 1kilo ohm? Thanks! Both are OLABS! Im planning on changing the coils with a cheap chinese solenoid its seems my case is electrical and no so much mecanical.
You'll find that information in my Google photo album, link below:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
Scroll down to the bottom of the list. This is for the 120V version, 240V version likely around double the resistance.
@@The4Crawler about 500 ohms. YOU'RE THE BEST!!! KEEP IT UP!!!!
Apply DC voltage to the solenoid. Works without problems. Good luck.
Good idea! Yes, that should work on the valve solenoids.
@@The4Crawler OK. Checked. Works. Good luck
great videos man!
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoy the videos. I like to try and figure out how these sorts of machines work and why they fail.
Mr Brown thanks so much for your videos. I just replaced the Solenoid Group as it seemed to have a blown or stuck 3 way valve. Unfortunately after the replacement the new 3 way is not switching to the steam/water output on top, so I get steam and water through the group head. One question, should the 3 way solenoid Click when you plug-in the machine ? Mine does but it doesn’t when I select water or steam output. Any ideas? It had been without proper descaling for a long time. (I have another spare 3 way solenoid valve, but would like to understand the issue first. What should the voltage feeding the valve be with the steam switch on standby? And on with Steam/Water selected ?
Thanks so much if you can take a few minutes to answer.
All the best.
The 3-port valve should only click on for the espresso cycle, as you can see with the indicator lights I added to my machine:
ruclips.net/video/9cC-m3a-oXY/видео.html
I don't think anything clicks in my machine when it's plugged in and only the pump runs for a short bit when you turn the machine on. There should be close to 0 volts on the solenoids in standby mode. You might see a few volts due to leakage current in the driver circuits, for example I see a dim glow in my indicator lights at night on my machine and you will get a tingle off the terminals if you touch them while the machine is plugged in. No valves operate in hot water or steam mode, only the pump. Water should flow up out of the normally open top port of the 3-way valve.
@@The4Crawler Thanks so much, that helps a lot. I have 120 Volts on the 3 way valve terminals even when the power is off. Which must be what is keeping the valve open regardless of the cycle it’s in. As a result I get hot water/steam through the group head. Double checked the valve’s terminal connections with your video and my pictures and it’s correct, so I must have a shorted or blown diode in the electrical. Have you come across a wiring diagram available on-line for this machine ?
Thanks again.
@@tupublicoful This is the closest thing I've found:
siber-sonic.com/appliance/800Electrical.html
It's for an earlier version.
Might trace the wires back to the main circuit board and see if they're connected to the right location. A possible fix is to add an in-line switch to that solenoid. Open the switch and that'll turn it off for hot water/steam, close the switch and it'll run the brew cycle.
@@The4Crawler BTW I fixed my machine. Had to replace Solenoids and the main PC board, only the TRIAC didn’t do the trick. A brown out probably fried the board.
Thanks so much for your help.
@@tupublicoful Thanks for the update, glad you got it working again. Sure sounds like something with the electrical system took out the machine. Might almost pay to put it on a line-interactive UPS. Would have to be a powerful enough UPS to handle the load of the machine if needed. But for brownouts/surges, those models can step the voltage up or down as needed or switch off the grid if the incoming power is too bad.