The 2 rubber peacees are for rapping cord around for transport. They mount on each end of the sliding mechanism there are dial holes for them to slide into notice there are two different did machine screw screws into themetal bracket in while they plastic screw screws into the handle
I do like this saw. I have a couple issues with it though. The biggest so far was with the bevel adjustment mechanism. The part back by where it tightens has a screw where the rod goes in. The screw sheared off. It wasn't hard to get out and replace, but keep in mind not to over torque the mechanism and over time may become weak. I replaced mine with a harder screw. The other issue is the laser seems really weak. I really don't depend on it, but since it's a feature, I was hoping it would work better than it does. I put a WEN 100 tooth blade on mine. The saw actually is pretty quiet in general for wood cutting tool to me. It does a fantastic job in the overall performance of what it was designed to do.
thank you. Just bought mine today and watched your video to make sure i had everything covered as this is my first miter saw. Awesome video and thanks for taking the time to share.
Thank you for creating this video guide. I bought this saw yesterday and went looking to see what the extra parts were for. The two rubber pieces were correctly identified by Derrick Dean a couple weeks ago. You can see one of them in the picture on page 9 just behind the Head Lock Down Pin. I went to do some test cuts and had to move the saw. It dawned on me then where the second rubber piece went when I went to wrap up the cord to move the saw. With this guide it made checking the setup much easier. Thank you.
I just purchased that saw. I was puzzled myself with those black hooks. Then I figured it out. Those hooks is to be mounted on right side of saw for power cord. One screw is for front ( meta )l & the other is for the rear end ( plastic ).
Thanks for the review. I actually Just returned one Admiral Miter saw today because the same piece was broke. They only had one more in the store. We opened it up an same piece was broken off and laying in the bottom of the box of the new one also. The manager said to take the one on display. I took a light and checked those guide pieces and they were good. Hopefully it will last. The manager did give me a 20% discount which was nice. Those new Bauer and the Hercules miter saws are beast, just out of price range for now. I think this is a either a quality control issue of more than likely the packaging and shipping. The manager suggested writing a review about. Glad to see I am not the only one who had the issue. I like the saw.
Hey Rick, thanks for this video. It has been a few years since you did the saw overview. How about a follow up video on the use of this cheap tool? Problems? Still accurate?
One of those black plastic brackets goes on the side. It is visible in one of the instruction manual illustrations. I can only assume the other one is a replacement part.
Looking at buying this model primarily for metal work. Surprising (to me at least) that in 2022 there still is no dedicated "sliding compound 14" chop saw" out there under thousands of dollars.
Hi Rick. I have the same saw. But I want to find out how kan I adjust the blade to cut square from top to bottom. As soon as I cut a piece of wood, then it is out with 1mm. Is there any possibility to assist me please. Hope to hear from you.
I just bought this saw. And that same silver piece that looks like it broke off of something I have as well. I dont know what it is from. I had to laugh when I saw you mention it because I couldn't figure out if it was from the saw or something else that broke lol.
If you want a better manual on the saw try the manual for a Wen MM1214 Miter saw. It is the same saw as the Admiral 12" but in a racy black finish (oooh- ahhhh). Also gives you a second source for parts. Noticed today they are already out of replacement laser units. Doesn't look good for long term reliability...
Does it needs oil lubricant? After using mine to cut down about a 1000 piece of 2x4s now it sounds funny when it starts cutting. I only had it for 2 weeks now.
Cord wind ups wood screw goes in the plastic on back right side of the slider the is a alignment hole and a screw hole and the other is on the body of the saw with an alignment hole and a machine screw the black plastic hooks face apart to wrap up the cord
Just bought one of these and used it today. I can’t get this setup square to save my life. I get a fairly decent cut but it’s not perfectly square, which is frustrating.
@@victorcarnicero6315 yep, we messed with everything we could. my son ended up taking it back and got a Bauer (think it’s a new model). It’s not a slider, but I’m not sure we needed that function anyway.
But changing the red dial on the miter won’t change the actual position of the blade and where it naturally sits at 0deg. Mine isn’t square and I’m frustrated :(
If you still have the manual there is an exploded view of how it goes on, if not a quick google search will get you to a PDF of the manual. Ive not taken mine off, but from what I see it looks like there are quite a few little parts that have to go on in a specific sequence (shown in the manual).
Have you figured it out yet. If not you pull that little red knob, right side mid way back. Don’t unscrew it. Just pull it out. Then it will twist around and stay locked out
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD. Second optie: handle horizontal positioned above the saw blade / Evolution R185SMS / Evolution F255SMS / Evolution RAGE3R255 SMS3 . (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw. The wood it will remain in place until the test is completed. Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand or finger on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. (test is completed). Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical angle square (Digital level box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing. It is better not to do that . (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
The 2 rubber peacees are for rapping cord around for transport. They mount on each end of the sliding mechanism there are dial holes for them to slide into notice there are two different did machine screw screws into themetal bracket in while they plastic screw screws into the handle
I do like this saw. I have a couple issues with it though. The biggest so far was with the bevel adjustment mechanism. The part back by where it tightens has a screw where the rod goes in. The screw sheared off. It wasn't hard to get out and replace, but keep in mind not to over torque the mechanism and over time may become weak. I replaced mine with a harder screw. The other issue is the laser seems really weak. I really don't depend on it, but since it's a feature, I was hoping it would work better than it does. I put a WEN 100 tooth blade on mine. The saw actually is pretty quiet in general for wood cutting tool to me. It does a fantastic job in the overall performance of what it was designed to do.
thank you. Just bought mine today and watched your video to make sure i had everything covered as this is my first miter saw. Awesome video and thanks for taking the time to share.
Thank you for creating this video guide. I bought this saw yesterday and went looking to see what the extra parts were for. The two rubber pieces were correctly identified by Derrick Dean a couple weeks ago. You can see one of them in the picture on page 9 just behind the Head Lock Down Pin.
I went to do some test cuts and had to move the saw. It dawned on me then where the second rubber piece went when I went to wrap up the cord to move the saw.
With this guide it made checking the setup much easier. Thank you.
I just purchased that saw. I was puzzled myself with those black hooks. Then I figured it out. Those hooks is to be mounted on right side of saw for power cord. One screw is for front ( meta )l & the other is for the rear end ( plastic ).
Thanks for the review. I actually Just returned one Admiral Miter saw today because the same piece was broke. They only had one more in the store. We opened it up an same piece was broken off and laying in the bottom of the box of the new one also. The manager said to take the one on display. I took a light and checked those guide pieces and they were good. Hopefully it will last. The manager did give me a 20% discount which was nice. Those new Bauer and the Hercules miter saws are beast, just out of price range for now. I think this is a either a quality control issue of more than likely the packaging and shipping. The manager suggested writing a review about. Glad to see I am not the only one who had the issue. I like the saw.
The two black pieces goes on the right side of the saw where you unlock the saw n the other one goes on the tail end of the saw on the right also
Hey Rick, thanks for this video. It has been a few years since you did the saw overview. How about a follow up video on the use of this cheap tool? Problems? Still accurate?
One of those black plastic brackets goes on the side. It is visible in one of the instruction manual illustrations. I can only assume the other one is a replacement part.
Looking at buying this model primarily for metal work. Surprising (to me at least) that in 2022 there still is no dedicated "sliding compound 14" chop saw" out there under thousands of dollars.
I just picked one up today. Thanks for the video as it was informative.
Hi Rick. I have the same saw. But I want to find out how kan I adjust the blade to cut square from top to bottom. As soon as I cut a piece of wood, then it is out with 1mm. Is there any possibility to assist me please. Hope to hear from you.
I just bought this saw. And that same silver piece that looks like it broke off of something I have as well. I dont know what it is from. I had to laugh when I saw you mention it because I couldn't figure out if it was from the saw or something else that broke lol.
It’s from the bottom of the saw. Under the bevel adjustment. By the red zero for horizontal adjustment at least in mine that is the case.
I got this saw for Christmas and just now had time to open it up, and same freakin piece is in my box too
I had that same broken piece! I used JB Weld on it and it is good to go.
How do you bevel the head of saw?
Game of life Admiral miter saw video shows you where to put those wire clamps.
If you want a better manual on the saw try the manual for a Wen MM1214 Miter saw. It is the same saw as the Admiral 12" but in a racy black finish (oooh- ahhhh). Also gives you a second source for parts. Noticed today they are already out of replacement laser units. Doesn't look good for long term reliability...
Thanks Rick very helpful video
Anyone know where to get another wrench to change the blade?
The two black parts once on the saw are to wrap the cord up.
Are you from the north shore or south Shore? Accent sounds familiar
Does this unit have a motor brake? My blade seems to spin for a while after releasing the trigger.
Does it needs oil lubricant? After using mine to cut down about a 1000 piece of 2x4s now it sounds funny when it starts cutting. I only had it for 2 weeks now.
Just bought today. Customer service is closed. Can't get Bevel Lock Lever to unlock. Any thoughts?
After 1 week of ownership what is your takeaway from the saw so far? Considering getting the same saw
To call your wire up goes on the right hand side where the slides at
Its all about the blade my friend
Just bought the 12 in blade admiral it won't cut 51/4 upright molding.Any ideas
Cord wind ups wood screw goes in the plastic on back right side of the slider the is a alignment hole and a screw hole and the other is on the body of the saw with an alignment hole and a machine screw the black plastic hooks face apart to wrap up the cord
Does anyone know where to order some parts for these?
See @Philbert Phlamingo’s comment a few before yours. He mentions a Wen MM1214 saw with a source for parts - same as Admiral.
I can't get it to bevel
Thanks! I find most instructions nowadays are not comprehensive!
Glad it was helpful!
Just bought one of these and used it today. I can’t get this setup square to save my life. I get a fairly decent cut but it’s not perfectly square, which is frustrating.
You can adjust the fence with the Allen screws
@@victorcarnicero6315 yep, we messed with everything we could. my son ended up taking it back and got a Bauer (think it’s a new model). It’s not a slider, but I’m not sure we needed that function anyway.
But changing the red dial on the miter won’t change the actual position of the blade and where it naturally sits at 0deg. Mine isn’t square and I’m frustrated :(
Move your fence with the Allen screws
That small broken piece came from underneath the out reached handle. I had the exact piece broken. It serves no purpose.
I accidentally took the guard/shield off of the saw, long story☺️. Do you know hoe to put it back together? I tried but failed.
If you still have the manual there is an exploded view of how it goes on, if not a quick google search will get you to a PDF of the manual.
Ive not taken mine off, but from what I see it looks like there are quite a few little parts that have to go on in a specific sequence (shown in the manual).
The stabilizer had me stumped as well! I had to look at the parts diagram to determine what it was.
There should be a law against using Philips screws on new equipment.
Anyone else not figured out how to just raise the saw?
Have you figured it out yet. If not you pull that little red knob, right side mid way back. Don’t unscrew it. Just pull it out. Then it will twist around and stay locked out
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD.
Second optie: handle horizontal positioned above the saw blade / Evolution R185SMS / Evolution F255SMS / Evolution RAGE3R255 SMS3 .
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
(If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw.
The wood it will remain in place until the test is completed.
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand or finger on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut.
If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
(test is completed).
Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade.
Step-5. When you measure the vertical angle square (Digital level box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.
Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.
It is better not to do that . (the choices are yours).
Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
Blade on backwards
I assure you that the blade is mounted correctly
@@RickMayotte Just bought this saw. Yes, your blade is on correctly but to a millennial, everything is backwards. ,
Funny; doing a test cut on the dirtiest piece of lumber ever; great video but at least brush that work piece a little...
Never buy a saw from HF. I bought a compound miter saw, the blade was not square to the cut, and would not square.