Thank you so much!! This was an excellent video comparing the different types of sand casting, now I know what can I use instead of the commercial sand
This is a really good video. Thanks for the expirment, im just learning about casting metal for my own projects. So this saved me a alot of trial and error. Cheers my friend! And thanks alot for the input and sharing!
I found this to be very helpful, thank you for the time and effort to make and post this video. I'm working towards casting Al in sand: crucibles arrive tomorrow, burner construction tomorrow...blah blah blah. Almost there...just need to settle on which medium to cast in. This was very informative.
Don't worry about the spillage. I worked in a commercial foundry for a few years, and the reason everyone is wearing thick soled, sturdy steel-cap shoes is because accidents happen. Spillages are not daily of course, but I've seen my share. With the right shoes they are usually not a problem. In fact, we had our greensand molds on metal bench-like things to have them raised to a better height (so that the guy pouring the metal did not bust his back more than needed), and we used aluminium bricks to weigh the top part and press it unto the bottom part to avoid spillage. Those bench-things were in a row, because space was a bit tight and the puring thing (whatever it's called, that bucket-like thing you get the aluminium out of the furnace and to where it needs to be) only held enough aluminium for that amount of molds. So we changed the bricks from mold to mold during the pouring. Once, I was changing away and felt some sort of material underfoot, assuming it to be sand. It was only when the smoke came up that I stepped away and took a look to see that I had been standing on a fresh aluminium spill. I had felt no heat, nothing out of the ordinary - that was how good my shoes were, and why they were that good. It only takes a small crack between the upper and lower part of the mold to make it spill, after all. And the stuff was hot: Once I was hit by a tiny droplet of aluminium out of a freshly poured, still cooking, mold on my right shoulder. I never saw the droplet, but I felt a needle-tip sized point of intense pain and found a tiny hole burnt into my sweatshirt. The skin took no damage that I could see, the droplet was so tiny. But I sure felt it :-)
Well done posting, you are very good at work, and I thank you for your channel and for those who follow your channel. Thank you for your channel. Thank you very much
Great video as always and answers many of my questions. The Mansbond I believe is similar to Petrobond, just another brand. The only one left to be tested is possibly delft clay, but comparisons I've seen are very close to Mansbond with the added hassle of needing air ways so you've probably already identified the best finish product as Mansbond/Petrobond. Great video, enjoy watching.
I leaned a trick from another youtuber, that really seems to help with casting. Scoop out a shallow hole about 1.5" in diameter and 0.5" deep next to your sprue hole, and make a rounded trench that goes from the shallow hole to the sprue hole. You want to pour the metal in the shallow hole an it goes up and over the trench to the sprue. This keeps the turbulence in the metal down, and makes it flow into the mold smoother. It also seems to keep sand from getting knocked loose. I'm just using some shitty homemade green sand. I've tried pouring both ways and the method I described gets a much nicer finish. Here's one of his videos, he shows what im talking about in it. ruclips.net/video/e2rE6cqg2So/видео.html
yes, adding a "trap well" helps keep sand out of your casting. Just a shallow hole between (or bottom of) your sprue and mould. It allows the metal to flow more evenly and catch loose sand. You can also add a J shaped pour channel so the metal fills the mould from the bottom up. This way anything that floats collects at the top of the casting while anything that sinks collects in the bend of the J. I have also tried W shaped channels to catch loose sand before it gets in the mould, which worked quite well but is a lot of work.
The problem when it comes to gold is that gold needs more than 1000 Celsius to melt. This requires a very special gas burner and is not what you can buy at Walmart. Next, most crucibles cool the gold too quickly, causing the gold to harden before it fills the mold. So it's not that easy to get the right equipment and especially that is not cheap when doing it as a hobby.
Interesting and informative video. Great to see comparisons of different sands. I'm using Mansbond, so was good to see it come out well. I can stop wondering about if I should try something else. But, mate, leave out the music. People who are into backyard metal casting aren't generally into dreadful, generic, techno muzak. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for this comparison. I have the red oil sand, but I’m getting large pockets like your cement and oil mix. But watching you compact the sand I thing I’m over compressing. I’ll pour this weekend and try a few different levels of compacting. I’d watched a few videos with the silica sand and now I think I’ll just buy more of the extra fine red oil sand! Thanks from Austin Tx
Try adding 1/2% glucose powder to your sand before adding the sodium silicate to that CO2 cured sand, it will improve the break down a lot. However I find the finish from CO2 silicate sand is poor mainly because the sand used is way coarser than my green sand. The problem of picking up bits of sand is due to the gating methods that you use. With good gating sand pick up is never a problem...Martin
I was having a pretty crap day. But then I saw this video and, I don't know, my got a lot better. Thank you, what ever your name is. Really like your Chanel and your vids
Hi MP Dragon, good to see another casting video from you with a very fair comparison between the various sand methods. I guess it all comes down to a surface finish vs. cost vs. ease of sourcing material vs. casting quantity.
What this tells me is that home made oil sand is worth looking more in to. Maybe try something with a smaller grain size to get better results :) I'm sure somewhere on the internet can be found the materials that are used in the commercial product. Cheers man, good video.
I can't see there being much of a difference in the oils used, unless it has a specific temperature range for different metals. Grain size, or sieve size is probably the most noticeable difference. Play sand vs. cement sand vs. sandblasting sand are 3 very different materials. All depends on what you're output goal is. Great video none the less! Subscribed!
Firstly, i know the bid is almost a year old. If you are looking to achieve more consistent finishes I would suggest looking at improving your skills in forming sand moulds, along with slowing down the flow of molten metal. Consider using a separate small diameter pouring sprew and save the larger hole as a riser/feeder. Finer sand as a facing layer will help, but thinking about how the metal behaves as it enters and fills the mould is more important IMHO.
If you want better quality castings, you should make the hole as an spiral. This way when you pour the metal in, it will always be an continuous stream. By doing so it makes the overall casting quality better and actually stronger too.
Great test, thank you. Nice to see them all side by side. I think you should have used a more complex pattern though. The oil cement one's issue is gas formation. Either the oil is producing lots of it, or the cement is too fine and it cannot escape. I think there would have been a greater divide between the sands if used on finer details. Mostly due to gas formation. The water based mix one of the worst as it flashes to steam, though the cement oil might be worse as it cannot escape. The sodium silicate probably won't be affected much by fine details and do well. The commercial greensand, somewhere in the middle.
I work in a green sand, no bake steel foundry. You do some right, some wrong here. You dont need your sand very wet at all. You bearly want it moist and sticking together. If it is too wet and you ram it too hard the sand will loose is porosity and you mighy get a bad casting with gas issues. You should have a better way to line up your flasks cope and drag so you dont get shift. We only use oil sand for heavy duty cores and we usta make our own pouring cups from it, now we use ceramic or Co2 sand. Keep practicing and you will get better!!
8:47 result of gasbubbles that form when the sand gets heated. when the melt comes in contact with the mould, it creates a film of partially solidified metal and oxides. When gas gets trapped underneath it creates these pockets, when the gas gets inside the melt, yo get cavities or local porosities resulting in poor metal performance
y'all gotta gotta appreciate all the work he put into this video, that deserves an A+++ in my book
Enjoyed the video but that music.. The music blocks out your voice on many occasions. Try it without the music.
Could you give a little more info on the proportions used in the two sand mixes.
I don't like the music but thank you for your research and testing! :)
Hope you come back to RUclips soon! Thanks for filming what you did in your channel so far!
Very informative. Nice to know you can make a decent cast without dedicated casting sand.
Nice? We did it for years
Perfect, I'm going to do some castings soon and this was a huge help as a guide for casting quality as it relates to the sand used.
Great job. Thank you for taking the time to test these different casting sands. Allot of time to produce a video like this.
Thank you
Willy
Totally fresh - thank you for taking the time out to perform this and share your results. :)
Thank you so much!! This was an excellent video comparing the different types of sand casting, now I know what can I use instead of the commercial sand
This is a really good video. Thanks for the expirment, im just learning about casting metal for my own projects. So this saved me a alot of trial and error. Cheers my friend! And thanks alot for the input and sharing!
Again amazing video, your english is also getting better! Keep up the good work.
I found this to be very helpful, thank you for the time and effort to make and post this video. I'm working towards casting Al in sand: crucibles arrive tomorrow, burner construction tomorrow...blah blah blah. Almost there...just need to settle on which medium to cast in. This was very informative.
Don't worry about the spillage. I worked in a commercial foundry for a few years, and the reason everyone is wearing thick soled, sturdy steel-cap shoes is because accidents happen. Spillages are not daily of course, but I've seen my share. With the right shoes they are usually not a problem. In fact, we had our greensand molds on metal bench-like things to have them raised to a better height (so that the guy pouring the metal did not bust his back more than needed), and we used aluminium bricks to weigh the top part and press it unto the bottom part to avoid spillage. Those bench-things were in a row, because space was a bit tight and the puring thing (whatever it's called, that bucket-like thing you get the aluminium out of the furnace and to where it needs to be) only held enough aluminium for that amount of molds. So we changed the bricks from mold to mold during the pouring.
Once, I was changing away and felt some sort of material underfoot, assuming it to be sand. It was only when the smoke came up that I stepped away and took a look to see that I had been standing on a fresh aluminium spill. I had felt no heat, nothing out of the ordinary - that was how good my shoes were, and why they were that good. It only takes a small crack between the upper and lower part of the mold to make it spill, after all.
And the stuff was hot: Once I was hit by a tiny droplet of aluminium out of a freshly poured, still cooking, mold on my right shoulder. I never saw the droplet, but I felt a needle-tip sized point of intense pain and found a tiny hole burnt into my sweatshirt. The skin took no damage that I could see, the droplet was so tiny. But I sure felt it :-)
Very informative with even more options than I had thought possible. Oil and cement? That was a new one. Thank you again for the info.
Well done posting, you are very good at work, and I thank you for your channel and for those who follow your channel. Thank you for your channel. Thank you very much
That was a very interesting experiment. I'd toyed with doing something like that myself.
You've saved me the bother : )
Ive been using an egg beater in my cordless drill to mix up the sand. It works really well.
Great video. Showing every step of each test ingot's casting was very educational. I admire and appreciate your scientific rigor.
Awesome video, glad to see you uploaded!! Keep up the awesome work!
Thank you for your sharing. Very good green sand casting process video, i learnt more from your video.
Great video as always and answers many of my questions. The Mansbond I believe is similar to Petrobond, just another brand. The only one left to be tested is possibly delft clay, but comparisons I've seen are very close to Mansbond with the added hassle of needing air ways so you've probably already identified the best finish product as Mansbond/Petrobond. Great video, enjoy watching.
I leaned a trick from another youtuber, that really seems to help with casting. Scoop out a shallow hole about 1.5" in diameter and 0.5" deep next to your sprue hole, and make a rounded trench that goes from the shallow hole to the sprue hole. You want to pour the metal in the shallow hole an it goes up and over the trench to the sprue. This keeps the turbulence in the metal down, and makes it flow into the mold smoother. It also seems to keep sand from getting knocked loose. I'm just using some shitty homemade green sand. I've tried pouring both ways and the method I described gets a much nicer finish. Here's one of his videos, he shows what im talking about in it. ruclips.net/video/e2rE6cqg2So/видео.html
he learned all that from "MyFordBoy"
yes, adding a "trap well" helps keep sand out of your casting. Just a shallow hole between (or bottom of) your sprue and mould. It allows the metal to flow more evenly and catch loose sand. You can also add a J shaped pour channel so the metal fills the mould from the bottom up. This way anything that floats collects at the top of the casting while anything that sinks collects in the bend of the J. I have also tried W shaped channels to catch loose sand before it gets in the mould, which worked quite well but is a lot of work.
The problem when it comes to gold is that gold needs more than 1000 Celsius to melt. This requires a very special gas burner and is not what you can buy at Walmart. Next, most crucibles cool the gold too quickly, causing the gold to harden before it fills the mold. So it's not that easy to get the right equipment and especially that is not cheap when doing it as a hobby.
Thanks for putting the effort into an honest comparison. You're funny "That was unprofessional!" Genuine LOL moment!
could you make your videos without music? i always enjoy much more al the sounds without music
Amen. That music is absolutely horrible. Great vids though.
+GRiiM
Try muting rhe audio.
:
I liked the music pretty much, to each his own.
Could you change the way you dress, I don't like to look at you the way you dress now.
@@criticallook1352 There are points in the video where he is talking between the horrid music. Muting the sound would cause one to miss what is said.
great video dude, you deserve every single like
He deserves more likes !
Interesting and informative video. Great to see comparisons of different sands. I'm using Mansbond, so was good to see it come out well. I can stop wondering about if I should try something else. But, mate, leave out the music. People who are into backyard metal casting aren't generally into dreadful, generic, techno muzak. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for this comparison. I have the red oil sand, but I’m getting large pockets like your cement and oil mix. But watching you compact the sand I thing I’m over compressing. I’ll pour this weekend and try a few different levels of compacting. I’d watched a few videos with the silica sand and now I think I’ll just buy more of the extra fine red oil sand! Thanks from Austin Tx
Mark wilson What did you find out?
Sometimes we just need to pay a little more for better quality anyway.
Thank you for such educational video.
Thanks for the video! Someone like me just looking into doing home casting this is perfect.
Excellent info, i also wondered what would cast best. Thanks for the notes friend!
Special thanks from a Bangladeshi viewer .... excellent
One of the best vids I've seen, good job mate.
I appreciate your scientific approach...
Try adding 1/2% glucose powder to your sand before adding the sodium silicate to that CO2 cured sand, it will improve the break down a lot. However I find the finish from CO2 silicate sand is poor mainly because the sand used is way coarser than my green sand. The problem of picking up bits of sand is due to the gating methods that you use. With good gating sand pick up is never a problem...Martin
How well they ram the sand play a vital role too
Just the comparison I was looking for. Thanks for the information and making the video!
Thank you for all your effort as it certainly helped me a lot. Cheers mate from down under. Stuart 🇦🇺
I was having a pretty crap day. But then I saw this video and, I don't know, my got a lot better. Thank you, what ever your name is. Really like your Chanel and your vids
Hi MP Dragon, good to see another casting video from you with a very fair comparison between the various sand methods.
I guess it all comes down to a surface finish vs. cost vs. ease of sourcing material vs. casting quantity.
The sand looks so colorful
Thanks for the video, it was perfect for me right now. Balls, it looks like I'm buying the more expensive Mansbond Oil Sand.
Very useful and interesting! Thanks for making the great videos. Keep it up!
you are getting close to the surface finish level of Brian Oltrogge, keep up the good work!
Mate spot on! Very useful gor me as im doing this at the weekend and gave a couple to trial. Thank you buddy
Great side by side comparison. Appreciated info. Thanks.
Great video to test different sands, I stick to my home green sand but this was educating. thanks
Dude, that is a bad ass sand rammer you made, thing is sweet!
Thank you for sharing you test, you saved us all time and money.
1st time viewer, great job my friend. i bet the stuff u make now is AMAZING...
"that was unprofessional"
Great quote lol.
Thanks for another great video, Don't worry about the sick bastards on this Post
fucjape2, I think canadianarmy was making a joke so that everyone can have a little smile.
What this tells me is that home made oil sand is worth looking more in to. Maybe try something with a smaller grain size to get better results :) I'm sure somewhere on the internet can be found the materials that are used in the commercial product. Cheers man, good video.
I can't see there being much of a difference in the oils used, unless it has a specific temperature range for different metals. Grain size, or sieve size is probably the most noticeable difference. Play sand vs. cement sand vs. sandblasting sand are 3 very different materials. All depends on what you're output goal is.
Great video none the less! Subscribed!
Firstly, i know the bid is almost a year old.
If you are looking to achieve more consistent finishes I would suggest looking at improving your skills in forming sand moulds, along with slowing down the flow of molten metal.
Consider using a separate small diameter pouring sprew and save the larger hole as a riser/feeder.
Finer sand as a facing layer will help, but thinking about how the metal behaves as it enters and fills the mould is more important IMHO.
Awesome video man, I was wondering what would be best, this helped me alot. God bless from Canada!
Thanks for this, I will try the Mansbond sand!
If you want better quality castings, you should make the hole as an spiral. This way when you pour the metal in, it will always be an continuous stream. By doing so it makes the overall casting quality better and actually stronger too.
Great test, thank you. Nice to see them all side by side.
I think you should have used a more complex pattern though. The oil cement one's issue is gas formation. Either the oil is producing lots of it, or the cement is too fine and it cannot escape.
I think there would have been a greater divide between the sands if used on finer details. Mostly due to gas formation. The water based mix one of the worst as it flashes to steam, though the cement oil might be worse as it cannot escape.
The sodium silicate probably won't be affected much by fine details and do well. The commercial greensand, somewhere in the middle.
Great heads up, excellent vid pls keep them coming. Many thanks, sand blocking, man!
the music has to GO!!!
+David Burns
Learn how to use the MUTE BUTTON
:
great unbiased vid. thank u........and smile once in a while cutie!!!
Pass the sand through a fine mesh to get the large grains out =]
or buy really fine aquarium sand from a pet supply store
+slacksijie
You must not have paid attention while watching the video!!
:
Do you have a video on about your cement / oil sand? That would be interesting to see.
Yes. Check out my YT channel
Thanks! You have definitely inspired me to start casting as well. I have posted a few videos so far on my channel.
Very nice and useful test! It helps a lot. Thank you.
Very informative and interesting results
Excellent and informative! Great video!
Great video and information
great video. I will give it a try.
Oil bonded sand will work better each time you use it until it starts to wear out.
Thanks mucho! Do one on investment casting with sand/portland cement
Always great video , it's very interesting !
Awesome vid! Very cool, mahalo !
Your channels growing fast! keep up the good work!
awesome, man. thanks for your effort
Great video dude, Just an FYI, it's grains of sand, not kernels
I work in a green sand, no bake steel foundry. You do some right, some wrong here. You dont need your sand very wet at all. You bearly want it moist and sticking together. If it is too wet and you ram it too hard the sand will loose is porosity and you mighy get a bad casting with gas issues. You should have a better way to line up your flasks cope and drag so you dont get shift. We only use oil sand for heavy duty cores and we usta make our own pouring cups from it, now we use ceramic or Co2 sand. Keep practicing and you will get better!!
it's ok to smile comrade. ...........seriously though thank you for the experiment
87k in one year wow congrats
He's back 😀
You should cast a bronze bell. You can find patterns from old bells from antique shops.
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing!
I think they all came out good, Depending on what your making it could be cleaned up on a mill if you own one.
Very nice video 👍
Good job, man!
Awesome video! Keep 'em coming :)
Great video
very interesting , thanks for making
Thanks and keep going making video's👍🏿
loved the video! keep it up!
8:47 result of gasbubbles that form when the sand gets heated. when the melt comes in contact with the mould, it creates a film of partially solidified metal and oxides. When gas gets trapped underneath it creates these pockets, when the gas gets inside the melt, yo get cavities or local porosities resulting in poor metal performance
Silica comes in grains,the finer the grain,the smoother the casting i use 70 or 90f.
What oil is used for mixing with sand ? Thanks ♥
Thank you very much for the video!!!
Maybe the cement mixture has taken up moistuire from the air while stored ?
So maybe its steamed out from water it has absorbed - hence pitting ?
I would like to see a comparison between the winner and a plaster mold.
Thank you for sharing this !
Good video!
Great info! Thanks for experimenting so I do t have to!!
I think adding a pouring basin and a spintrap could help with your castings.
Great video. Really enjoyed the objective analysis. Do you have a comparison that includes steel and graphite molds?
Can you at least please make the music quieter?
Learned alot. Thanks!
nice effort bro.. keep this up!