If you're using a dual action or random orbit machine, following directions, doing your prep work and test spots and working with common sense you're almost guaranteed to not damage paint, so don't let that scare you away from wool or microfiber pads. They are incredibly useful and necessary for cutting those deeper defects that foam won't get, especially if youre using an entry level machine. Always, start with the least aggressive method and work up. I test polish before even beginning compound, some paint is soft enough that compound would be overkill and is not needed. Always remember your job when detailing is to literally do as little as possible to get the desired result.. =)
That's not really true, you can still damage and burn paint or clear coar. If you got a proper tool it doesn't mean accidents or errors can and most likely will happen if the user doesn't know what he's doing
@@RomboutVersluijs well of course there can always be a few exceptions. Some degree of common sense and basic knowledge is expected or they shouldn't be operating power tools in the first place. If they're looking for more cut, they should have some experience and success running a polisher already. But with a DIY level polisher and polish and a user who is intelligent enough to read and follow directions it takes an absurd lapse in judgement to burn through. Like leaning on the polisher holding it in the same spot on an *edge* for 10+ seconds straight. Yes, it *can* be done, I've experimented on test panels, but I've never accidently done it and don't know anyone who has, and I've trained many people. Fear of burn through certainly should not dissuade anyone from the enjoyment and benefits of learning paint correction. Though I would suggest everyone practices on test panels and learns what it takes to burn through in various scenarios before starting the real deal. But these are just my own personal opinions based on my experiences, I'm not saying I'm an expert, just someone who does paint correction professionally. Brian @ Apex Detail is who I consider the best. He walks you through everything you need to know to safely achieve beautiful professional results. 😀👍👌✌
@@jdisdetermined thanks for the lengthy response! The more videos I watch the more I get a felling one shouldn't just try this. They make it sound you can burn paint very easily.
@@RomboutVersluijs the fact that you're doing the intelligent thing and taking your time to research and learn before you jump in to it tells me you'll be successful. For even more peace of mind, you can use some 1/4" 3M Precision or similar quality thin masking tape, and mask off panel lines, edges, peaks, etc. and polish them separately by hand until you're more comfortable. A thin tape is best because your pad can pass over the tape without catching on it while you're polishing. Here is one example of just how much it can take to actually get through the clear coat in one small section. That is with a long throw polisher, and a very aggressive wool pad and heavy cutting compound. Maximum cut. With a standard 8mm polisher, and a softer pad and polish, like you would use for an enhancement or one step, you would be there for days! 👇 ruclips.net/video/mBGT7tNqV1w/видео.html As long as you keep the polisher moving, you have absolutely nothing to worry about. You got this! 😀👍
Clay bar to remove stuck on surface contamination needs to be mentioned as it will get you that smooth as a baby bottom finish without removing any of the clear coat. Wash to remove loose dirt, Clay bar to remove stuck on roughness, polish to remove water spots and scratches/swirl marks, and wax for the slickery protection of the finish.
I have been watching several of your videos and you must be one of the few best car mechanics in RUclips. Your detail explanations, knowledge and variety receives a 10/10. Great job and please continue to educate us the DIYs. Thanks
I always enjoy stopping by and this video is perfect for me as I am just starting to research detailing. My wife's car needs some attention and now I have a direction. Awesome timing brother.
Amazing video!! Been wanting to find videos to learn how to buff and polish since I’m a do it your self kinda guy.. much appreciated now time to go shopping exactly what you showed on this video!
Thanks for the detailed video! Question though, my car's hood looks just like the one in this video and appears that the clear coat is gone because it's not glossy any more. Should I start apply a clear coat first then start from the FINISHING pad and Compound? Thank you!
Good video but it would have been good for me if you had commented on the hardness of the foam not just the the colour when describing cutting and finishing pads. I've bought some EBay pads and I'll have to investigate further to check out which does what for the ones I have. I'm thinking soft for cutting and hard for polishing? EDIT I now think I got that backwards.
How about Scholl S20 ? I have managed to remove pretty heavy swirl marks from careless washings in 3 passes. Used wool pad but with wool been as human straight thin hairs. Pad went dry in seconds. Every half of the pass had to reapply S20 and moisture pad with spray water. Loved the results but process and amount of product made me cry. Tried medium firm thick none flexi pad but for noob me it was jumping in my hands and i could not get to hard to reach , places and bends .... Could you please recommend some flexi pad for Scholl S20 1 step compound. I need flexy so can press on the edge and get it flexing over bends. Please Kind Sir
What kind of pad should I use with the new turtle wax one and done compound? I know I’m oversimplifying it and to top it off I’m doing it by hand. But using a medium cutting pad along with a polishing pad would defeat the purpose of the one and done, wouldn’t it?
Really really useful video, pay attention fools, you can clarify a bunch of junk on u’r head, every time that I went to the store all those tricky names for the same thing blowed my brain out trying to figure it out about what to use with what I had at home, man thankfully like for this video 👍🏼
How long is the liquid wax supposed to last? Months or years? Also is this new top coat stuff like F11 or The Last Coat, a replacement for wax or do they go on after the wax?
Thank Jesus there's a universal color coding standard across all brands of pads. Imagine the confusion if different brands used different colors for the same type of pad!?! I'm also thankful that all manufacturers explain clearly, using unambiguous, concise language and similar terms to describe what each and every pad is meant to do. Imagine the chaos if they had different systems. Sweet Lord, it would be like they were intentionally trying to confuse the consumer. Just pair up the right glaze with the right polishing pad and you're good to go. Happy compounding. All your base are belong to us!
Also, with liquid and spray on waxes, it's harder to control where the wax is applied. I prefer a hard wax because the liquids can drip down into cracks and the spray on kind get all over the windows and other places you might not want to wax.
Hey you're awesome and I just subscribed to your Channel this was very helpful. I am a student of auto body collision trying to restore my car and I was very confused on buffing. I watched your video even took notes and hopefully I'll do better my next time. Thank you
You only need to do 2 step (compound with medium/hard foam pad + then polish with a soft black foam pad) then apply a high grade sealant (synthetic wax). If you're doing it first time be sure to use a DA polisher as it will be easier to avoid costly mistakes of burn through. Menzerna makes a great sealant, I love griots boss correcting creams, very user friendly and not grabby to get off when finished. Also, don't forget to wash your car with a unbalanced PH soap that will remove old polymers and wax or it will clog your pads and be an issue (purple power auto/boat wash is good soap). Also, right before compounding make sure to clay bar your car to remove embedded contaminants (most important step). If you don't have really deep marks, I would use an All-In-One polish to remove most of your spider webbing/love marks. Just pick a system you want, and familiarize yourself with it, don't overthink every aspect. Hope this helps, my experience as prof detailer.
Although the Maguir's carnauba wax is popular and available from local stores, P21S carnauba wax has a few advantages over every other wax: 1. P21S wax wipes on and after a minute wipes off without needing to buff 2. P21S does not leave white crust in crevices like other waxes that contain cleaning compounds. It dries pretty clear. 3. P21S does not leave greasy smear marks when you run your fingers over the finish to enjoy the feel (provided your fingers are clean of course) 4. A while back group of enthusiasts got together to publish a test of 40 or so waxes and polishes and P21S outlasted all the natural waxes and was the easiest to apply. 5. It contains NO Abrasives. That's a good thing if you've polished and used a clay bar to prepare the surface for wax sealing. Obviously not a good thing for those you want a one-step approach. But then you wouldn't be watching this video, right? I order P21S wax through Amazon: www.amazon.com/P21S-12700W-Carnauba-Wax/dp/B002LOP5E4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Hi Ratchets, I do not have any clear coat scratches or damage BUT the clear coat has areas/patches that are dull and hazy on my hood. Can I use a polishing compound followed by a finishing compound with microfiber cloths or can you please suggest something. Thanks
Hi this is a great video and as per usual I have saved for future reference. A newbie question: Is it possible to lightly dampen a wool pad to reduce the risk of dry buffing and overuse of the compound? If yes then would it be water or something akin to the compound ingredients?
*Good **MyBest.Tools** power and rpm control.*
informative for noobs lost in a maze of too much marketing strategies of these companies.
Compound for sale please
If you're using a dual action or random orbit machine, following directions, doing your prep work and test spots and working with common sense you're almost guaranteed to not damage paint, so don't let that scare you away from wool or microfiber pads. They are incredibly useful and necessary for cutting those deeper defects that foam won't get, especially if youre using an entry level machine.
Always, start with the least aggressive method and work up. I test polish before even beginning compound, some paint is soft enough that compound would be overkill and is not needed. Always remember your job when detailing is to literally do as little as possible to get the desired result.. =)
That's not really true, you can still damage and burn paint or clear coar. If you got a proper tool it doesn't mean accidents or errors can and most likely will happen if the user doesn't know what he's doing
@@RomboutVersluijs well of course there can always be a few exceptions. Some degree of common sense and basic knowledge is expected or they shouldn't be operating power tools in the first place. If they're looking for more cut, they should have some experience and success running a polisher already.
But with a DIY level polisher and polish and a user who is intelligent enough to read and follow directions it takes an absurd lapse in judgement to burn through. Like leaning on the polisher holding it in the same spot on an *edge* for 10+ seconds straight.
Yes, it *can* be done, I've experimented on test panels, but I've never accidently done it and don't know anyone who has, and I've trained many people. Fear of burn through certainly should not dissuade anyone from the enjoyment and benefits of learning paint correction. Though I would suggest everyone practices on test panels and learns what it takes to burn through in various scenarios before starting the real deal.
But these are just my own personal opinions based on my experiences, I'm not saying I'm an expert, just someone who does paint correction professionally. Brian @ Apex Detail is who I consider the best. He walks you through everything you need to know to safely achieve beautiful professional results.
😀👍👌✌
@@jdisdetermined thanks for the lengthy response! The more videos I watch the more I get a felling one shouldn't just try this. They make it sound you can burn paint very easily.
@@RomboutVersluijs the fact that you're doing the intelligent thing and taking your time to research and learn before you jump in to it tells me you'll be successful. For even more peace of mind, you can use some 1/4" 3M Precision or similar quality thin masking tape, and mask off panel lines, edges, peaks, etc. and polish them separately by hand until you're more comfortable. A thin tape is best because your pad can pass over the tape without catching on it while you're polishing.
Here is one example of just how much it can take to actually get through the clear coat in one small section. That is with a long throw polisher, and a very aggressive wool pad and heavy cutting compound. Maximum cut. With a standard 8mm polisher, and a softer pad and polish, like you would use for an enhancement or one step, you would be there for days! 👇
ruclips.net/video/mBGT7tNqV1w/видео.html
As long as you keep the polisher moving, you have absolutely nothing to worry about. You got this! 😀👍
@@jdisdetermined thanks for the link I'll ha e a look at it
Clay bar to remove stuck on surface contamination needs to be mentioned as it will get you that smooth as a baby bottom finish without removing any of the clear coat.
Wash to remove loose dirt, Clay bar to remove stuck on roughness, polish to remove water spots and scratches/swirl marks, and wax for the slickery protection of the finish.
Sounds good to me thank you!
Finally, the best explanation of polishing / pads usage. 😀👍
So do u compound, swirl remover, then polish, then wax, right?
Thanks for the video. Haven't heard this so well explained
I have been watching several of your videos and you must be one of the few best car mechanics in RUclips. Your detail explanations, knowledge and variety receives a 10/10. Great job and please continue to educate us the DIYs. Thanks
Or maybe they dont advertise it as cutting compound to keep emo's from trying to detail their paint jobs?
I always enjoy stopping by and this video is perfect for me as I am just starting to research detailing. My wife's car needs some attention and now I have a direction. Awesome timing brother.
Amazing video!! Been wanting to find videos to learn how to buff and polish since I’m a do it your self kinda guy.. much appreciated now time to go shopping exactly what you showed on this video!
everything you need to know: wax on, wax off
Danielson
Thanks for the detailed video!
Question though, my car's hood looks just like the one in this video and appears that the clear coat is gone because it's not glossy any more.
Should I start apply a clear coat first then start from the FINISHING pad and Compound? Thank you!
The best-explained video ever I watched on the subject... thank you, sir.
He always does a great job of explaining. I like his car a/c repair.
Good video but it would have been good for me if you had commented on the hardness of the foam not just the the colour when describing cutting and finishing pads. I've bought some EBay pads and I'll have to investigate further to check out which does what for the ones I have. I'm thinking soft for cutting and hard for polishing? EDIT I now think I got that backwards.
How about Scholl S20 ?
I have managed to remove pretty heavy swirl marks from careless washings in 3 passes.
Used wool pad but with wool been as human straight thin hairs.
Pad went dry in seconds. Every half of the pass had to reapply S20 and moisture pad with spray water.
Loved the results but process and amount of product made me cry. Tried medium firm thick none flexi pad but for noob me it was jumping in my hands and i could not get to hard to reach , places and bends ....
Could you please recommend some flexi pad for Scholl S20 1 step compound.
I need flexy so can press on the edge and get it flexing over bends.
Please Kind Sir
Great video for noobs trying to decipher what's out there. Thanks for over explaining!! You are getting more "polished" too. 😀
Awesome Video Bro! I was confused on what to buy and now i know much more. Thankyou
great video my friend and nice work place. wish I had a garage with space like that
What kind of pad should I use with the new turtle wax one and done compound? I know I’m oversimplifying it and to top it off I’m doing it by hand. But using a medium cutting pad along with a polishing pad would defeat the purpose of the one and done, wouldn’t it?
What I find very confusing, perhaps because I'm not English, is they use the same term foam pads for cutting and polishing
Really really useful video, pay attention fools, you can clarify a bunch of junk on u’r head, every time that I went to the store all those tricky names for the same thing blowed my brain out trying to figure it out about what to use with what I had at home, man thankfully like for this video 👍🏼
Thank you for the video brother learn alot from you.i dont know much about polishing trying to learn once again thank you
wool way better FOAM BURNS WAAAY FASTER...
So what pad would you use for just the polishing to get the shine ? You mentioned using a dual action polish machine so what pad goes on that
Boy! You say some of the most ridiculously funny things.
That hood or complete car looked like it need a proper wash first. Most looked to be dirt and dust
The best video on explaining this topic hands down!
How long is the liquid wax supposed to last? Months or years? Also is this new top coat stuff like F11 or The Last Coat, a replacement for wax or do they go on after the wax?
Thank Jesus there's a universal color coding standard across all brands of pads. Imagine the confusion if different brands used different colors for the same type of pad!?! I'm also thankful that all manufacturers explain clearly, using unambiguous, concise language and similar terms to describe what each and every pad is meant to do. Imagine the chaos if they had different systems. Sweet Lord, it would be like they were intentionally trying to confuse the consumer. Just pair up the right glaze with the right polishing pad and you're good to go. Happy compounding. All your base are belong to us!
Also, with liquid and spray on waxes, it's harder to control where the wax is applied. I prefer a hard wax because the liquids can drip down into cracks and the spray on kind get all over the windows and other places you might not want to wax.
Hey you're awesome and I just subscribed to your Channel this was very helpful. I am a student of auto body collision trying to restore my car and I was very confused on buffing. I watched your video even took notes and hopefully I'll do better my next time. Thank you
After compounding
Do u use polish or swirl remover?
You only need to do 2 step (compound with medium/hard foam pad + then polish with a soft black foam pad) then apply a high grade sealant (synthetic wax). If you're doing it first time be sure to use a DA polisher as it will be easier to avoid costly mistakes of burn through. Menzerna makes a great sealant, I love griots boss correcting creams, very user friendly and not grabby to get off when finished. Also, don't forget to wash your car with a unbalanced PH soap that will remove old polymers and wax or it will clog your pads and be an issue (purple power auto/boat wash is good soap). Also, right before compounding make sure to clay bar your car to remove embedded contaminants (most important step).
If you don't have really deep marks, I would use an All-In-One polish to remove most of your spider webbing/love marks.
Just pick a system you want, and familiarize yourself with it, don't overthink every aspect.
Hope this helps, my experience as prof detailer.
Although the Maguir's carnauba wax is popular and available from local stores, P21S carnauba wax has a few advantages over every other wax:
1. P21S wax wipes on and after a minute wipes off without needing to buff
2. P21S does not leave white crust in crevices like other waxes that contain cleaning compounds. It dries pretty clear.
3. P21S does not leave greasy smear marks when you run your fingers over the finish to enjoy the feel (provided your fingers are clean of course)
4. A while back group of enthusiasts got together to publish a test of 40 or so waxes and polishes and P21S outlasted all the natural waxes and was the easiest to apply.
5. It contains NO Abrasives. That's a good thing if you've polished and used a clay bar to prepare the surface for wax sealing. Obviously not a good thing for those you want a one-step approach. But then you wouldn't be watching this video, right?
I order P21S wax through Amazon: www.amazon.com/P21S-12700W-Carnauba-Wax/dp/B002LOP5E4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Hi Ratchets, I do not have any clear coat scratches or damage BUT the clear coat has areas/patches that are dull and hazy on my hood. Can I use a polishing compound followed by a finishing compound with microfiber cloths or can you please suggest something. Thanks
Thank you this was extremely helpful
Hi this is a great video and as per usual I have saved for future reference. A newbie question: Is it possible to lightly dampen a wool pad to reduce the risk of dry buffing and overuse of the compound? If yes then would it be water or something akin to the compound ingredients?
Glad I found this one, well done. I'm missing your repair videos, you've always been a clear thinking teacher.
So, what's the difference between the smooth surface pads, hex surface pads, and the pads with the deep grooves and bumps?
Very nicely done buddy! Very clear and thorough explanation of what is involved to do this type of job. Thank you!
That is a nice video and I thank you for explaining how to take care of the automobile's paint finish..
Detailed instructional video.Thanks for sharing the information. Helped.
I liked this video and although I did not subscribe yet, I will watch your other videos.
Another great video Mr. Ratchet. I thought I was going to see you work and shine up that dirty car. LOL
Can you do the video for car preparation/polishing and applying nano ceramic protection. Not for extreme cases but for regular cars.
Can you please tell me what is the difference between rubbing compound and cutting compound?
Excellent,explained everything I needed to know in 10 minutes. Very well presented.
3M is the best all around brand for these applications. Maguires is a good cheap option for compounds.
Can you do a video of you using these products on this car? Would love to see how it turned out! That finish is pretty bad.
What about clay bar?
wax on wax off now do kungfu
maan do some vídeos in spanish please
Nice exp. I today apply Meguire Ultimate Paste Wax first time in my life and its not to hard to apply.
Very good video. thank you
Mario batali of automotive fixes
sr, you talk clear as crystal... thank you so much... thumb up and subscribed.
Megquires m21 sealant for the best wax no residue pro wax ebay
If im using 3m polish step 3.. what pad i need to used.. i have a set rotary pad meguiars
Best explained video on topic perhaps on all of youtube ty
Hello i want to know .how i could remove my damage clear coat without affect the base coat please reply..
Thank you for information, I can see where I went wrong now, and hopefully put it right.
You are fuckin awesome man
Hate the ads. Pls stop thanks
After you wipe off the wax, do you buff it with the polisher?
I’m a buzzkill
درود بر شما متشکرم اقا
good video
Good over-complicated tutorial. Thank you!
How do you judge if the clear coat is getting thin?
I learnt more from this short video than the last years worth elsewhere
Definitely hope you post more spray repair videos
How about prepping the clear coat for polishing?
Love this channel! Time to polish up the Lincoln mark vii lsc
Great presentation.
Thanks for the video's. I want to see you use the compound and wax on the car. Good Info.
What about microfiber pads??
Thanks for this video! Always informative!
Very well explained bro, thanks for sharing!
Wax is the old and the worst type of protection.
You now have polymer based protection, or even better ceramic ones.
Yes, although the term "wax" is becoming synonomous with polymer based substances (for example, all the waxes shown in the video contain polymers)
very good! Thanks! Take my grandma!
What step is the maxi pad used?
Does the temperature affect the end results
Thanx from Perth Australia you are a great teacher!!!!!
I like this guy. Such an amazing explanation, simple and understandable.
Great video
Thanks for posting this, it's a very helpful intro! :)
really helpfull body... thanks a lot
Excellent video, and just what I needed to know, thanks.
👍
how do you clean your pads?
Does it matter if we do it by hand?
The harder the foam, the more it cuts, si or no.
Can you do a video about ceramic coating?
Thanks
10:32 Immediately subscribed
Thanks for the explanation, you helped me a lot...
Sir,..
I would kill to be ur student
QUEL MACHINE
Good Video, Thank You Brother.
Thank you.