I was spraying high temperature grease on the clutch pivot ball every 6 months because the chirping sound was always coming back. Today I just installed the spring on the fork and the chirping sound is gone. Thank you!
The STI comes with that spring as a standard. The fork pivots on a shaft and the slave cylinder makes a minor contact with the fork when the clutch is not depressed. When idling this minor contact can make a small rattling noise. That is why STI comes with the spring. I forgot to mention this to another person that i sent an aswer a couple of minutes ago. If you have the Verus fork on a WRX (non sti), i think that a possible cause of the rattling or tapping noise is becasue the Verus fork is billet steel, it is more solid it probably doesn't absorb vibrations as the stamped steel fork.
Hello again. I read your comment. Make sure that the slave cylinder is properly bled. Compare bleeding the brakes and bleeding the slave cylinder. When bleeding the brakes, the brake pads and rotor prevent the piston on the caliper from extending that allows more fluid to flow and if there is air it will come out. Now, when bleeding a slave cylinder the piston extends; yes it is being bled but not properly. As the slave cylinder piston extends, some air can stay in the unit, this small air pocket can cause play between the fork and the slave cylinder piston or a spongy feeling on the clutch pedal. When i replaced the clutch on my wrx i unmounted the slave cylinder and blocked the piston to prevent movement when bleeding. In this case i had my father helping with the clutch pedal. This has to be done very slow and double checking the unit is highly necessary to prevent the piston from flying away and the unit from coming appart. Keep the slave cylinder piston blocked when installing it back on the bell housing. After securing one slave cylinder bolt (finger tight, not torqued) remove the unit used to block the piston and let the piston touch the fork, then align the other bolt and torque both bolts. After i did that there is no play or movemet between the slave cylinder piston and the fork. There is a youtube channel that shows how to do it; i will look for it and post it on another comment. Good night.
The factory manual for Subaru WRX STI explains that the slave cylinder must be removed and the piston has to be blocked when bleeding. I do the same for the WRX (non sti) and it works great.
Hey thank you for replying to my comment! Also yeah I mean't to say that my car was also making the chirping noise when i did not press the clutch. It would go away when I press the clutch down. Thanks for uploading this video i'm going to try this out myself and hope this makes the noise go away. I just don't want to take it to subaru, they are asking $950 for a throwout bearing replacement.
Your welcome...funny thing i had the noise and took it to subaru at around 30K miles, they replaced it and it still made the same noise cause it's not the bearing it's the clutch fork. Best of luck
If the clutch fork is the aftermarket reinforced fork for stage 1 and up clutch kits this noise will be normal. The OEM fork has a couple of grooves to clear the transmission bell housing casting marks. The reinforced fork from Verus or other manufacturers eliminate the groove that is a weak spot of the fork. Without the groove the fork will touch one of the bell housing casting marks and eventually wear it out or chip a piece of the casting. Applying grease wont solve the chirping noise. The noise is more noticeable when feathering the clutch, specially when using stage 1 and up pressure plates and clutches.
Thank you, the fork is definitely on the list of things I want to replace during my next clutch job...the current fix is a combination of grease on the fork pivot point, slave pin contact point and a release spring which does get rid of the noise in my case.
Interesting, I started getting this noise about a month or two ago and it coincides with upgrading my clutch to a stage 1. So it's just something I need to get used to having?
@@apu95 Did you also upgraded the fork? I have a stage 2 Clutch and pressure plate. The noises i was getting first was from the upgrades fork touching a casting rib of the bell housing. If you compare both you will see that the OEM fork has small dips to clear the bell housing and the upgraded one doesn't. The upgraded fork will touch and wear out the aluminum in the bell housing and the noise will stop. The other noise is that the throw out bearing is supposed to have a spring clip to secure the fork and throw out bearing tight to avoid rattling noises. My 2015 wrx didn't come with it and the new clutch didn't. Some older wrx have it. If you have an STI, the fork is different and already strong and it comes wirh a spring that goes from the top of the fork to the engine /transmission pitch mount. A stage 1 or stronger pressure plate will take some time to get adapted for daily driving. To me it feels just like a truck clutch. On my car i get noise if i feather the clutch. I had to adapt to rev the engine to 2000 rpm and release the clutch at a moderate rate and there is no noise and almost no slippage.
@@PIPEFITTERENGINEER I have a 2015 that I just put a stage 2 action clutch, versus clutch fork and act lightweight flywheel. I get this noise. Will it go away?
@@GaragebuiltOriginal When I noticed the noise caused by the new stronger clutch fork, i contacted the manufacturer and informed them about the noise and with pictures illustrated how their clutch fork was wearing one casting rib of the bell housing. The answer wasn't convincing. If you compare the OEM fork with the one aftermarket that we have, you will see that the aftermarket is really strong but, the small notches on the OEM fork are there to clear the bell housing casting ribs, especially the casting rib that is to the driver side of the bell housing. On the OEM fork made of ( stamped steel), the notches could be a weak point that could bend the fork if a stage 2 or 3 pressure plate is used. That is why the aftermarket one that is (solid metal cut to that shape) doesn't have them. I suggested a little bit longer pivot point but the answer i received was not convincing. The design is good but i think that they should tensile test the fork but with the notches or at least one notch where it makes contact. For my next clutch change i will put back the OEM fork but with a reinforcement that I'm working on. Take care, drive safe and don't abuse the clutch. It is no fun to take out an engine just to replace an oil seal, clean the timing wheel and install a fly wheel and a clutch kit and then it rains when everything is out.
Had this issue on my 16. There is a tsb on the throw out bearing. Dealer replaced mine jnder warranty, the updated throw out bearing fixed it for a while.. just hit 80k miles and its back. Usually only during wet road conditions. Was wondering if a south bend or other upgraded clutch would come with a better throw out bearing that fixes this permanently?
The slave cylinder point and the pivot point must be greased. Use the 3M high temp grease with copper. Do nott use never-seize grease, it dries with time.
@@jessel1217 the grease shakes off after a while, what I found to be effective is to have rubber piece cut and placed between the slave pin and fork contact point. I used cut a piece of a tire sidewall but I'm sure you can find something else that could do the same
Cool! Quick question, when I greased the parts underneath the boot, I smeared a decent amount all around inside. Is this bad? I hear a lot of people saying it could get into the clutch? Thank you.
Sorry for such late reply, yes you only want a little on top of the ball joint which is accessible by removing the rubber boot on the clutch fork...too much and it can get on clutch causing slippage.
@@fixflickss Hmm... I put a gob of high heat grease under the boot where the fork moves and also on the slave cylinder that pushes against the clutch fork. It quieted down a lot. I have the Verus Clutch fork along with Southbend Stage 2 daily clutch. I also greased the rod inside the cabin that goes through the firewall right above the gas pedal when pressing in the clutch. No creaking or squeaking and it feels real smooth. Knock on wood but I haven't had any clutch slippage. Also sprayed some WD40 specialist dry lube down there under the boot where fork goes. Just did this yesterday. I have 80K miles on my 2015 WRX. Hopefully I didn't do anything negative. I don't think I did. Drove it 80 miles today on highway and local roads. Smooothhhh.
@@shamwaymoonyos9578 happy to hear that bro, hopefully It will be alright under the boot, I would not spray anything in there bit use a grease gun with a hose attachment to just get the pivot point greased
@@fixflickss thanks man :). Yeah I hope it all was good what I did. Did the grease and spray as mentioned in my original reply but yeah I am just hoping it will be fine. Drove it those 80 miles today and it was satisfying with little to no chatter feel in pedal and no noise. My noise wasn't much chirping but on some pedal travel it has started to get a metal noise that sounded like grease was needed. Please forgive my crap reply I out of it at moment feeling pretty good. Have a good one man! Or woman! :)
Bought these from homedepot www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-8-in-x-6-1-2-in-and-15-32-in-x-4-1-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Extension-Spring-4-pack-16071/202045467?MERCH=REC-_-pip_sem_mobile-_-202045475-_-202045467-_-N
How is this fix after 6 months of driving?? Still holding strong? No complications? I'm going to home depot tonight Haha. Been having the chirp for about 6k miles now.
@@fixflickss I did the mod today. I attached the spring in the same location on the fire wall and used a heavier duty spring. The noise stopped but my clutch does feel slightly stiffer now not a big deal.
Do you mean if you don't fix it? It should not affect the car but the noise could get worse which is just annoying especially when people on the street can hear it when you stop on the red light.
Yes, you definitely do not want to drop anything under the fork boot or get too much grease on the ball joint pivot point if too much grease is applied it can drop on the pressure plate and create slippage if anything else falls in there it can destroy your clutch...there is always risk so always take your time and do the proper research. Best of luck to you
Hey I hope you can reply to this but with installing the spring that shouldn’t engage the clutch and put wear on it right? Looking to do this because my 18 Wrx loves to make this sound
Hey...so this worked but I had to get the spring to force the fork onto the slave Cylinder instead of away from it as in this video. I applied grease on the fork pivot point and the contact point with slave Cylinder and fork.
@@fixflickss Thank you. Im gonna give it a shot. Literally just got this 2016 WRX with 50,100 miles and the only thing that I dont really like about it is this damn noise. Im losing my mind over this noise.
Was this making sounds at lower rpms? I think this is exactly whats going on with my wrx, just got my whole motor rebuilt with a stage 2 clutch and stage 2 IAG block and a bigger turbo. Didn't have this issue at all and now about 1000 miles in it's constant. It seems to have only started while taking off thru gears when i added the Torque Solution engine mounts about 50 miles ago so is that vibration or could this be a bigger issue? Seems to stop once I get over 3000-3500 RPM's.
Hi, im not sure at this point this was a while back. I bought a case with several different sizes in-home depot and used the one that worked best for keeping the fork in tension
I understand then that this can be solved in 2 ways, or do you have to do both? A) apply grease on pivot point, B) place the spring, pulling from the slave cylinder. Does this video look familiar to you? Hope to get it fixed with the spring... ruclips.net/user/shortsXPeD3Z5N9uQ
I did both, but if it’s not fixed with spring then apply grease. PS. I later changed the configuration with tension of the spring towards the front of the car vs the firewall as in the video, it worked a little better, i secured the spring to the egr bolt with an additional metal clip.
After having the chirping noise constantly for the last 20k miles or so im glad to say this fixed it. So much happier with the car. THANK YOU!!!!
I was spraying high temperature grease on the clutch pivot ball every 6 months because the chirping sound was always coming back. Today I just installed the spring on the fork and the chirping sound is gone. Thank you!
The STI comes with that spring as a standard. The fork pivots on a shaft and the slave cylinder makes a minor contact with the fork when the clutch is not depressed. When idling this minor contact can make a small rattling noise. That is why STI comes with the spring.
I forgot to mention this to another person that i sent an aswer a couple of minutes ago. If you have the Verus fork on a WRX (non sti), i think that a possible cause of the rattling or tapping noise is becasue the Verus fork is billet steel, it is more solid it probably doesn't absorb vibrations as the stamped steel fork.
Hello again. I read your comment. Make sure that the slave cylinder is properly bled. Compare bleeding the brakes and bleeding the slave cylinder. When bleeding the brakes, the brake pads and rotor prevent the piston on the caliper from extending that allows more fluid to flow and if there is air it will come out.
Now, when bleeding a slave cylinder the piston extends; yes it is being bled but not properly. As the slave cylinder piston extends, some air can stay in the unit, this small air pocket can cause play between the fork and the slave cylinder piston or a spongy feeling on the clutch pedal.
When i replaced the clutch on my wrx i unmounted the slave cylinder and blocked the piston to prevent movement when bleeding. In this case i had my father helping with the clutch pedal. This has to be done very slow and double checking the unit is highly necessary to prevent the piston from flying away and the unit from coming appart. Keep the slave cylinder piston blocked when installing it back on the bell housing. After securing one slave cylinder bolt (finger tight, not torqued) remove the unit used to block the piston and let the piston touch the fork, then align the other bolt and torque both bolts.
After i did that there is no play or movemet between the slave cylinder piston and the fork.
There is a youtube channel that shows how to do it; i will look for it and post it on another comment.
Good night.
This is great information thank you so much for sharing, definitely share the YT video.
The factory manual for Subaru WRX STI explains that the slave cylinder must be removed and the piston has to be blocked when bleeding. I do the same for the WRX (non sti) and it works great.
Hey thank you for replying to my comment! Also yeah I mean't to say that my car was also making the chirping noise when i did not press the clutch. It would go away when I press the clutch down. Thanks for uploading this video i'm going to try this out myself and hope this makes the noise go away. I just don't want to take it to subaru, they are asking $950 for a throwout bearing replacement.
Your welcome...funny thing i had the noise and took it to subaru at around 30K miles, they replaced it and it still made the same noise cause it's not the bearing it's the clutch fork. Best of luck
This literally just happened to me today! Thank you for this vid saves me money on trying to see if it was the bearing 👌👌👌
My pleasure, stick around, I will always post fixes on the annoying things 😀
Happened to me yesterday lol
Did this fix your issue??
Ive done the same things you done from the first video. This is a true fix which I will try. Its happening on my frs
If the clutch fork is the aftermarket reinforced fork for stage 1 and up clutch kits this noise will be normal. The OEM fork has a couple of grooves to clear the transmission bell housing casting marks. The reinforced fork from Verus or other manufacturers eliminate the groove that is a weak spot of the fork. Without the groove the fork will touch one of the bell housing casting marks and eventually wear it out or chip a piece of the casting. Applying grease wont solve the chirping noise. The noise is more noticeable when feathering the clutch, specially when using stage 1 and up pressure plates and clutches.
Thank you, the fork is definitely on the list of things I want to replace during my next clutch job...the current fix is a combination of grease on the fork pivot point, slave pin contact point and a release spring which does get rid of the noise in my case.
Interesting, I started getting this noise about a month or two ago and it coincides with upgrading my clutch to a stage 1. So it's just something I need to get used to having?
@@apu95 Did you also upgraded the fork?
I have a stage 2 Clutch and pressure plate. The noises i was getting first was from the upgrades fork touching a casting rib of the bell housing. If you compare both you will see that the OEM fork has small dips to clear the bell housing and the upgraded one doesn't. The upgraded fork will touch and wear out the aluminum in the bell housing and the noise will stop.
The other noise is that the throw out bearing is supposed to have a spring clip to secure the fork and throw out bearing tight to avoid rattling noises. My 2015 wrx didn't come with it and the new clutch didn't. Some older wrx have it.
If you have an STI, the fork is different and already strong and it comes wirh a spring that goes from the top of the fork to the engine /transmission pitch mount.
A stage 1 or stronger pressure plate will take some time to get adapted for daily driving.
To me it feels just like a truck clutch. On my car i get noise if i feather the clutch.
I had to adapt to rev the engine to 2000 rpm and release the clutch at a moderate rate and there is no noise and almost no slippage.
@@PIPEFITTERENGINEER I have a 2015 that I just put a stage 2 action clutch, versus clutch fork and act lightweight flywheel. I get this noise. Will it go away?
@@GaragebuiltOriginal When I noticed the noise caused by the new stronger clutch fork, i contacted the manufacturer and informed them about the noise and with pictures illustrated how their clutch fork was wearing one casting rib of the bell housing. The answer wasn't convincing. If you compare the OEM fork with the one aftermarket that we have, you will see that the aftermarket is really strong but, the small notches on the OEM fork are there to clear the bell housing casting ribs, especially the casting rib that is to the driver side of the bell housing.
On the OEM fork made of ( stamped steel), the notches could be a weak point that could bend the fork if a stage 2 or 3 pressure plate is used. That is why the aftermarket one that is (solid metal cut to that shape) doesn't have them.
I suggested a little bit longer pivot point but the answer i received was not convincing.
The design is good but i think that they should tensile test the fork but with the notches or at least one notch where it makes contact.
For my next clutch change i will put back the OEM fork but with a reinforcement that I'm working on.
Take care, drive safe and don't abuse the clutch. It is no fun to take out an engine just to replace an oil seal, clean the timing wheel and install a fly wheel and a clutch kit and then it rains when everything is out.
Had this issue on my 16. There is a tsb on the throw out bearing. Dealer replaced mine jnder warranty, the updated throw out bearing fixed it for a while.. just hit 80k miles and its back. Usually only during wet road conditions. Was wondering if a south bend or other upgraded clutch would come with a better throw out bearing that fixes this permanently?
Not sure since still running stock
The slave cylinder point and the pivot point must be greased. Use the 3M high temp grease with copper. Do nott use never-seize grease, it dries with time.
That's great to know, thank you for sharing.
How can I effectively get grease between the context point of the Slave to the Fork? Thanks man.
@@jessel1217 the grease shakes off after a while, what I found to be effective is to have rubber piece cut and placed between the slave pin and fork contact point. I used cut a piece of a tire sidewall but I'm sure you can find something else that could do the same
Same problem thank you
Cool! Quick question, when I greased the parts underneath the boot, I smeared a decent amount all around inside. Is this bad? I hear a lot of people saying it could get into the clutch? Thank you.
Sorry for such late reply, yes you only want a little on top of the ball joint which is accessible by removing the rubber boot on the clutch fork...too much and it can get on clutch causing slippage.
@@fixflickss Hmm... I put a gob of high heat grease under the boot where the fork moves and also on the slave cylinder that pushes against the clutch fork. It quieted down a lot. I have the Verus Clutch fork along with Southbend Stage 2 daily clutch. I also greased the rod inside the cabin that goes through the firewall right above the gas pedal when pressing in the clutch. No creaking or squeaking and it feels real smooth. Knock on wood but I haven't had any clutch slippage. Also sprayed some WD40 specialist dry lube down there under the boot where fork goes.
Just did this yesterday. I have 80K miles on my 2015 WRX. Hopefully I didn't do anything negative. I don't think I did. Drove it 80 miles today on highway and local roads. Smooothhhh.
@@shamwaymoonyos9578 happy to hear that bro, hopefully It will be alright under the boot, I would not spray anything in there bit use a grease gun with a hose attachment to just get the pivot point greased
@@fixflickss thanks man :). Yeah I hope it all was good what I did. Did the grease and spray as mentioned in my original reply but yeah I am just hoping it will be fine. Drove it those 80 miles today and it was satisfying with little to no chatter feel in pedal and no noise. My noise wasn't much chirping but on some pedal travel it has started to get a metal noise that sounded like grease was needed.
Please forgive my crap reply I out of it at moment feeling pretty good. Have a good one man! Or woman! :)
@@shamwaymoonyos9578 lol you made my night bro, my name is Mike, thanks again, enjoy the rest of the evening
what size spring did you get
Bought these from homedepot www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-8-in-x-6-1-2-in-and-15-32-in-x-4-1-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Extension-Spring-4-pack-16071/202045467?MERCH=REC-_-pip_sem_mobile-_-202045475-_-202045467-_-N
How is this fix after 6 months of driving?? Still holding strong? No complications? I'm going to home depot tonight Haha. Been having the chirp for about 6k miles now.
Also do I need to remove the slave cylinder to attach the hose clamp or can it slide right on without removing the slave?
@@fixflickss did you need to remove the slave cylinder to add the hose clamp??
@@fixflickss I did the mod today. I attached the spring in the same location on the fire wall and used a heavier duty spring. The noise stopped but my clutch does feel slightly stiffer now not a big deal.
@@taylormcwilliams2406 yes
Could this affect the car and get worse
Do you mean if you don't fix it? It should not affect the car but the noise could get worse which is just annoying especially when people on the street can hear it when you stop on the red light.
What do u think? Is there any risks of doing this job? Dropping something in there?
Yes, you definitely do not want to drop anything under the fork boot or get too much grease on the ball joint pivot point if too much grease is applied it can drop on the pressure plate and create slippage if anything else falls in there it can destroy your clutch...there is always risk so always take your time and do the proper research. Best of luck to you
Hey I hope you can reply to this but with installing the spring that shouldn’t engage the clutch and put wear on it right? Looking to do this because my 18 Wrx loves to make this sound
Hey...so this worked but I had to get the spring to force the fork onto the slave Cylinder instead of away from it as in this video. I applied grease on the fork pivot point and the contact point with slave Cylinder and fork.
@@fixflickss thank you!
Interesting solution. Did it work out long term?
Only solution that worked for me
Yes, after several years I still have it.
@@fixflickss That answer confuses me to the question "did it work out long term". Do you mean you still have the problem or the car?
@Tanner I still have the car and the fix has held up, no chirping noises since the fix
@@fixflickss Thank you. Im gonna give it a shot. Literally just got this 2016 WRX with 50,100 miles and the only thing that I dont really like about it is this damn noise. Im losing my mind over this noise.
Was this making sounds at lower rpms?
I think this is exactly whats going on with my wrx, just got my whole motor rebuilt with a stage 2 clutch and stage 2 IAG block and a bigger turbo. Didn't have this issue at all and now about 1000 miles in it's constant.
It seems to have only started while taking off thru gears when i added the Torque Solution engine mounts about 50 miles ago so is that vibration or could this be a bigger issue? Seems to stop once I get over 3000-3500 RPM's.
This happened two months after i bought with everything stock
How long is that spring ?
Hi, im not sure at this point this was a while back. I bought a case with several different sizes in-home depot and used the one that worked best for keeping the fork in tension
@@fixflickssfound one that fixed it thank you very much I’ve been living with that annoying sound for a year
I understand then that this can be solved in 2 ways, or do you have to do both? A) apply grease on pivot point, B) place the spring, pulling from the slave cylinder. Does this video look familiar to you? Hope to get it fixed with the spring... ruclips.net/user/shortsXPeD3Z5N9uQ
I did both, but if it’s not fixed with spring then apply grease. PS. I later changed the configuration with tension of the spring towards the front of the car vs the firewall as in the video, it worked a little better, i secured the spring to the egr bolt with an additional metal clip.
Hey bro I have a huge question, do u have Instagram??
Hello Angel, yes @fixflicks
springs
Yes that fixed it
flutter noise when shifting....that makes u annoyef
Not sure what you mean the noise only happened when i was of the clutch