How to adapt a wood miter saw to cut like a metal chop saw.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- A blade will grab metal more forcefully than wood, so always clamp the material, and cut more slowly than with wood.
I did my cuts outdoors so that any sparks or hot chips of metal would not ignite sawdust in my workshop.
I had to cut a lot of aluminum extrusion for a railing project. Was all set to purchase the small Trajan Q700 metal chop saw, that Stumpy Nubs recommended, but it was out of stock.
Considered putting a 10" metal cutting blade on my 10" Makita sliding miter saw, but then the tooth velocity would be about double the tooth velocity of a true metal chop saw.
A 5" blade on the Makita miter saw would give the correct tooth velocity but the depth of cut would be too small. I compromised with an 8" metal cutting blade. Made an MDF insert for the saw so that an 8" blade would cut all the way through. It worked very well. Should also cut steel with the correct blade.
Thanks for this. I was trying to do this by adjusting the motor to balance speed and torque. I didn't consider that I'm only trying to reduce blade tooth velocity. And since I only need 2 inches of cut depth, changing the blade diameter is a much easier way to accomplish that.
Thank you for this. I'm just a homeowner who needs to cut metal from time to time on do-it-yourself projects. So this video definitely helps!
I bought a 12” dbsm for this purpose. It is belt driven instead of direct drive, so the ratio could be changed to slow the blade down. I think I might try your smaller blade option first, it would certainly be easier and less expensive. Thank you for not cutting the mishap with the metal out, I hope you weren’t injured. Thanks for the great videos and inspiration!
Thanks for making this video because i was just gonna put this blade on and start cutting 😮
😬😬😬
Well, now, that is a great idea! I have an older makita miter saw myself that I never use. 5 inch Evolution blade, here I come!
Might not get much depth of cut wit a 5 inch blade. But if you try it, let us know how it works out.
That is a good idea to gear down the saw with a smaller blade. You can actually cut aluminum with a regular wood blade and at normal saw speed. I have built huge aluminum pergolas with thick aluminum louver extrusions for days and days and one wood blade lasted the entire time. I would like to try your method for cutting steel, though, where reducing the speed is critical.
When cutting 2” angle or any angle, place the material squarely against the bottom table and back fence, that way the rotation of the blade is cutting down and back forcing the angle against the saw. When the angle is placed like a teepee the rotation of the blade has a greater tendency to lift the angle.
One way the blade cuts against a backing surface the other the blade exits the cut with NO backing.
Great job!
You can cut alloy as it is without even changing the wood blade, I do it all the time. different story for mild steel
thank you
Any woodworking saw with a good carbide toothed blade will cut aluminum with no issues, just do it a little slower than you would cut a piece of wood. Go by the RPM not velocity... 1000 rpms is 1000 rpms no matter the size of the blade is. If the blade is designed for cutting metal, I would be a little cautious using it on a regular chopsaw or table saw, if the tool has a gear box instead of a belt drive system. I'm not saying it won't work but it may shorten the life of your tool, after all they are designed to cut wood. Also keep in mind some metal cutting blades require less RPM than wood cutting blades... RPM not velocity....
Excellent video, Steve. How has this been working out?
Did a great job in cutting a lot of aluminum extrusions of railings. Have not yet tried on steel.
If cutting steel, are the sparks an issue? Do you simply vacuum out any sawdust around the saw/saw table before cutting & not use your dust collection system when cutting the steel?
Good idea to cut steel outdoors. I would definitely not use with dust collection system, or shop vac.
@@steven.woodward some use a magnet to clean up steel bits, unhook dust collection or bag on the saw, outdoors if possible, good eye protection and dust face mask. If the blade is sparking much the rpms could be too high, dull blade or too much pressure. Diablo Cermet II blade
Hi again Steve. If I didn't have the budget for that Freud blade you have, could I use an arbor reducer sleeve to use a 20 mm bore Evolution 8" blade on my saw's 5/8" arbor? I don't know if that would be safe or not
An evolution blade with 5/8" bore would be simpler. store.evolutionpowertools.com/collections/blades/blade-size_8-inch
@@steven.woodward the aluminum cutting blade has a 25/32” (20mm) bore which makes it an odd duck compared to other two steel cutting blades with 5/8” bore.
@@Driver10011 OK. I see the problem. How about another brand. This one has good reviews. www.amazon.com/Oshlun-SBNF-080060-Diamond-Knockout-Aluminum/dp/B002PMV4VU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1WW509KYZ6J6D&keywords=8%22%2Baluminum%2Bcutting%2Bblade&qid=1667323584&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjc1IiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=8%2Baluminum%2Bcutting%2Bblade%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-3&th=1
This is the other blade that I was looking at when purchasing the Freud. Both reputable brands. www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-40-4520-Ferrous-Non-Ferrous-Cutting/dp/B00023S32M/ref=sr_1_13?crid=IMVQQXFCMOV1&keywords=8+inch+aluminum+cutting+blade&qid=1667323768&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIwLjAwIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&refinements=p_n_size_browse-bin%3A387871011&rnid=387623011&s=power-hand-tools&sprefix=8+inch+aluminum+cutting+blade%2Caps%2C134&sr=1-13
Also, pay attention to the thickness of material that the blade is designed to cut.
Wouldn't a small blade spin faster?
Good question. The RPM is mostly a property of the motor, so the RPM of an 8" blade or a 10" blade is about the same. But the tooth velocity of the 8" blade is much slower than 10".
RPM's don't change at all. The farther the teeth are from the center of the blade, the farther they are traveling per rotation. So the bigger the blade, the faster the teeth travel given the same RPM. That's why you can swing a whip with your arm at one end and break the sound barrier at the other.
I'm trying to avoid buying a metal saw too. I only need to cut 4 3x3 tubes. The largest metal blade rated for my 10 inch mitre saw is 7.5 inch so if I go this route I'll have to cut the tubing from both sides. Worse case I'll just buy an Evolution, use it once and sell it to a lucky buyer.😊
If the tubes are aluminum you can get away with a 10” blade in the 10” miter saw. I have seen aluminum railing installers use a standard woodworking 80 tooth carbide tipped blade. Steel of course needs a proper steel cutting blade.
@@steven.woodward Couldn't be so lucky. The tubes are 11 gauge and painted which is why I don't want to use an abrasive blade. I'm considering a Sawzall.
Shouldn't you be using RPM of the blade as your point of reference as blades are spec out by mfg. based on RPM (Revolutions per Minute), not velocity (Meters per Second)?
The blade is still spinning at the same RPM as your tool is outputting regardless of diameter and the blade will wear out faster if it is run a higher RPM than what is is designed for. Wood Miter saws unless specific for Metal cutting run at high RPM. All materials have a cutting/machining sweet spot, and this is why proper Speeds and Feeds are important. Same with tools.
Best to slow down the speed of the machine with a proper speed (RPM) control, to match the blade cutting RPM for the specific type of metal (ferrous or non-ferrous).
In addition, tooth geometry thickness, but also number of teeth per inch is important, depending on material, for metal cutting more teeth per inch is desired, and you cannot have that many in a small diameter blade, for a given thickness of material. This is why chop saws for metal such as 1/4" thick are in the 10-12" blade diameter (higher mass) and if you have ever used one or seen one in use, you can see how clean and easier the cuts come out, of course with proper clamping.
You make some good points. The ideal solution is a metal saw and a wood saw, with appropriate blades.
As I am primarily a woodworker, with only occasional need to cut metal, the goal was to get a reasonable metal cutting solution without using a metal cutting saw. Maximum RPM of blades shown video is greater than saw RPM so at least it is safe.
Oh, and I have the same Made in USA Makita saw except it’s a 12”. Did you make that insert plate or buy it somewhere?
I made the insert out of baltic birch. Just copied the old plastic insert and then did some final adjustments to get fit.
About flupped up there and became mr nub..
Yup. Though it best to not edit that out, so that others can learn from my mistakes and keep their fingers.
There are 3400 rpm ferrous cutting blades, but they are $200, so not worth buying that for a wood miter saw.
This is aluminum, you could just have bought a blade that was suitable for non ferrous metals. Do not try this with something like iron or steel, you can buy a metal/ chop saw in advance if you don't have a metal saw and then just buy wood blades with the proper teeth count for the wood you intend to cut. If it's for aluminum or copper then you can do this.
What problem do you see with cutting iron & steel, with the correct blade, spinning at correct rpm ?
You don't need to modify a regular wood saw to cut aluminum in there just verify the cut disk be able to handle both... Kind a click bait video...