Those exhaust clamps are also used a LOT on aircraft - when we install them - it's REQUIRED that you beat around the outside of the clamp with a hammer (Usually a plastic one) as we tighten them up to ensure that the two flanges are pulled together tightly and seal together.
@@normmcrae1140 I’ve worked on the PT-6 but mostly on hot sections and disassembly. The PT-6 is the best engine. I wish they had upgraded the Buffalo to the PW-150
Wow...I didn’t realize they were them until I went to their channel! Saw their channel back in the summer when we knew we were going to get Dusty. The interior of their bus is awesomely sweet! She really knows how to make a 1980’s “gold faucet” look amazing!!!
That is what a dyno was invented for, they were originally called moving roads so you could test a vehicle in all different conditions and make changes. They make one's specifically for class 8 trucks which would also fit a bus.
@@BusGreaseMonkey Dont joke about it!! He could probably be trained to diagnose all sorts of things; fired up bearings, perished rubber, air leaks etc etc
hi! Scott seeing these big bus comming to your site and being able to park, turn around and get serve on your new property must make you feel good , all that work and time you have put in it, is serving you well, till you get that big garage done. tk's for your videos i need it badly with that covid house confined,
I always enjoy watching your Channel I am Big Bird from Jamaica I have been heavy duty bus mechanic for over 15 years whenever I whenever I have boots are leaking I check it out by applying my brakes then put the unit in Drive take time to rev the engine and you will hear a whistling sound coming from the leaked.
So a little trick for hard to read engravings, cover with paper and use a crayon or pencil to rub over it lightly and it will transfer the impressions.
@@TommyboyGTP it must have had more than it looked like on the video. I've seen hx35's on cummins that made 35psi all day and had many many thousandths of end play
As a temp fix for the exhaust -> a little JB weld would mold itself in the voids once the clamps are tightened. The linkage, like I said earlier "that'll buff right out"!! -JK - a couple of new bell cranks are certainly in order. Always loved an Eagle!!
Hi Scott Finding turbo boost issues is never as simple as one might think. Here are some things to check and deal with as you go through the process. 1 First, are you getting full rack from the Governor? Is the Goener responding properly? If you're not getting full rack it doesn't matter how much or how little the leaks there are you will never get proper turbo boost. Always check the rack first. You definitely have some leaks happening. Let's deal with the most important one for first is THE AIR FILTER. The air filter on this bus they don't make anymore and there is a reason for that they suffer from exactly the problems that this bus is suffering from. They tend to leak dirty air and dust the engine out which is why they quit making them years ago. When we installed air filters like this one we always put a little lithium grease around the ceiling surface the reason for this is so when you pull the air filter the next time you can see whether the filter sealing surface squeeze properly spotting any leaks of dirty air coming into the system right away. The shiny and dented leading-edge on the compressor wheel of the turbo tells you that you have had dusted contamination through the turbo. The turbo is likely done just from that. The play on the shaft that you showed us without putting a dial gauge on tells me that we are past acceptable standards for this. So the turbo will likely have to be replaced if you want boost. The exhaust clamps are done you need to replace exhaust clamps when we were putting the exhaust pipe back on between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. Tapping them lightly as you tighten the nut will help in collecting them properly. You need to remove the exhaust manifold on the passenger side of the engine replace the gasket. When reinstalling the exhaust manifold do not tighten the bolts or squeeze the exhaust gasket. Install the turbo pipe from the exhaust manifold to the turbo. Do up all the clamps and ensure that you get everything in tight and sealed first. Once you have done this you can then tighten the bolts on the exhaust manifold. It is not the pipe that’s too short is the manifold That in the wrong spot. It was assembled in the wrong order. Rookie mistake Once you have done all this and checked the turbo for compliance to standard Or replaced it you should have full turbo boost again. If you are really unlucky you'll have to replace both the exhaust manifold and turbo and the pipe to get them to seal properly. They may have been working for so long that they will not ever properly sealed again. Good luck
On my 7.3, I made a pressure unit that I could put compressed air while it wasn’t running. Then I’d spray everything down with soapy water to find any bubbles. That helped out a lot. Btw, I only put 25 psi.
I'd just cut the pipe on the straight with both V-bands bolted up solid and slide a 5 ply or better silicone coupler on there and a couple t-bolts to make up the difference. That should eliminate that charge pipe as a leak point. Don't know if it was mentioned already, but a very easy way to test for boost leaks is to take another coupler, clamp a PVC end cap pipe plug into it with an air fitting threaded with sealant into the plug, clamped on to the inlet side of the turbo. You then take your 'shop air' with the regulator turned down (as to not damage anything further,) and attach the air hose to the homemade boost leak tester and pressurize it. You'll hear air hissing from the leak point if there still is one after you've extended that charge pipe. Simple trick I've used for probably 20 years or so that requires no special tools, just an air compressor and a couple common things you can pretty much buy at any plumbing store. The turbo seems like it has a good amount of shaft play as well. They can be rebuilt pretty easy and rebuild kits are out there inexpensively. Let us know what you come up with. I'd be curious to know if the seals are blown out between the hot and cold side of the compressor.
Hi Scot, looks like every one of the Hiem joints in that shift assembly are completely worn out to the point that the one on top has fallen apart. if it had been on the lower side it would have dropped completey off!
The exhaust elbows from manifold to the turbo mount are supposed to have a flexible section in them. Not flex pipe, but a convoluted section of stainless. That is to take up minor differences in fit up with the manifold and turbo mount. I generally found about 12 pounds of boost on the Eagle with 6V92TA I owned. You might also want to turn the engine up to a maximum of 2300.
Sometimes, if you get the mating surfaces real clean, and it's not too large a gap, you can put a bead of red silicone, install it, and let it sit till tomorrow, and you'll be amazed at how good it works to seal.
As much as you were able to move that turbo fan from side to side like you did is obviously worn, plus it wasn't as free spinning as it should have been is a real sign it's worn out!
Lot of problems discovered. Will there. Be a follow up? Love your videos of the old Detroit’s. Saw many of them when I was in the Navy. Always enjoyed the sound of one being properly driven. Thank you for sharing this video with your viewers.
I had a car with the little brother of that turbo (Garrett AiResearch T3) and it was running 4 psi boost (supposed to be 14) because the wastegate spring had weakened. Felt like I was driving a rocket ship when I fixed it. ;)
To me, that sounded like leak at charging side, but maybe that video audio was just off. That wobble at turbo is not enough to cause that much power loss, it just leaks oil. Exhaust leaks are easy to determite, just press plywood etc to end of exhaust pipe to create pressure, so you can feel the leaks when engine is idling.
Looks like there should be an exhaust seal made of similar material as on small block Chevy's to help seal up that pipe. That would help out with the "short' looking pipe. My thoughts only.
A needle scaler would probably knock the corrosion off those exhaust fittings. Also that shift linkage is in bad shape. The one joint is completely broken and the other is worn out.
in doing a little looking around.. high temp exhaust sealing compound. Silkolene 762. good for 800C.. smokes while curing. DO NOT BREATHE exhaust smoke and smoke from the joints while curing during engine run up to cure it. sit down for the price. its crazy expensive for a single tube. Detroit diesel sells it also..
When you first moved to your property there was some rancor about naming the property. Just name “The Hill” LENNY HILL and put stickers on busses that make it that reads “I climbed Lenny Hill”.
So, it sounds like an exhaust leak. I would probably remove the exhaust manifolds and clean, measure straightness, and put new gaskets if it has any. Just my thoughts. I am sure there is more to it.
Granted I no nothing about 2 strokes but I find it interesting that there is low boost, lack of power and yet it doesn't smoke like a tire fire under load. Leaves me wondering if there isn't more than a turbo issue at play here?
That is an indication of low power as a DeDec1 Detroit will not allow the injectors to apply full fuel if there isn’t sufficient boost from the turbo hence the reason for no smoke going up the hill. This also has the benefit of not getting pulled over by the police because due to a worn turbo you’d be blowing black smoke if it was straight mechanical. Thanks to Tyler Scott is learning the ins and out of the computerized 92 Detroit and finding it not quite as bad as he feared. Remember the wanderlodge with the 8V92TA that was low on power and would constantly drop speed and gears climbing a hill? Primary reason for the low power on that Wanderlodge was the carpet installed at the factory wouldn’t let the throttle pedal reach the bolt that indicates to the driver your at full throttle. It only had been receiving a power signal from the throttle ( fully electronic) requesting no more than 75 percent power. Once Scott cut away the restricting carpet the throttle for the first time in it’s life was able to attain full throttle and the owner was amazed at the increase in power 450 HP ) . It always seems to be a conglomeration of small things that go wrong to create bigger problems. Scott and Tyler have the knowledge and drive to figure out most any problems and fix them. I wouldn’t recommend going anywhere else if I needed service on my coach. Plus they give you a discount if you assist them working on your own bus and you gain knowledge of what to do. In my option the best Detroit mechanics out there.
I would replace the Turbo intirely... I had a Turbo blow out on me which was starting to make a ticking noise.... (Tick/rattle noise) It certainly wont hurt to replace the Turbo.
The PTO miter box drives the alternator and cooling fan to the left (still connected). To the right, it used to drive the original bus A/C compressor that used to live in the empty compartment on the right side of the engine.
I worked on a lot of these Eagles with the 6V92T back in the early 80’s at Trailways, personally I think Eagle made a mistake using these engines they just don’t have the power like the 8V92T has, the 05 and 010 Eagle’s are heavy buses, from my own experience on them I wouldn’t recommend a 6V92T in a Eagle.
I have several hundred thousand miles of trucking experience with 6v92's. I had a green 350 hp, and a silver one in another truck. The green one was okay, the silver setup was considerably better. Overall, those 6V's were okay on reasonably flat ground freeway running, once you got them wound right up. Compared to one green 8V that I ran, I thought those 6V's did alright. Absolutely useless on big hills or mountains, though.
With respect if the boost pressure is down it will be on the intake side where the problem lies . Yes the small amount of blow by on the clamps is not good I doubt very much if it would affect the boost pressure You should be looking for leaks after the blower not before . Boost is created after the turbine not whats driving it IE the exhaust Just saying
on the clamps you tightened for the turbo, can you do a bubble test for leaks like you did on the air bags to see if it bubbles there by seeing if it leaks?
-There is a tool for that, run to and look out in the back 40, Butler tool crib, one of the black bins along the back wall, high near the dark ceiling.. Oh, and don't forget to bring lunch on the way back ;}
I'd clean up those connections and put a skim coat of ultra copper on all surfaces and let it set up then one more light coat on top of that just on the pipe itself and bolt her together. I've used ultra copper for years and gasoline applications and my buddy uses it in his turbo applications too.
Loosen exhaust manifold nuts and slide exhaust manifold back to meet pipe the little things he is doing is not going to increase boost check for full throttle position model 10 Eagles are notorious for having throttle linkage problems
Did you see that thing pulling that Hill no smoke the injectors are not even going into full fuel position if they were with no turbo boost that thing should be rolling coal
Rick, of all the commentors you get the gold star 🌟. You are spot on in your diagnosis and correction. The exhaust manifold mounts are purposely made with a bit of free play to compensate for the alignment of thos rigid pipes. Turbo boost on these old engines is directly related to having 3 things at the same time: Full throttle, Full rack and Full load. Which then and only then do you check the boost pressure. At this point I would be very concerned with that ingestion of dust in the intake air.
It is going to full fuel. We had one just last week in for low boost. It was not going to full fuel and it had exhaust leaks. Depending on how large the injectors are we will see coal. This has smaller 1983 highway coach emissions compliance injectors. His towed vehicle is covered in soot so it does not have enough oxygen to burn the fuel it’s getting. It’s got some hp to gain from a larger injectors at some point.
RP, the boost pressure on your engine is really predicated by several factors. Turbo part number, injector part number, general condition and "tune" of the engine, exhaust back pressure and air filter restriction. There is a wide range of airbox pressures listed for these engines. That said, as a rule of thumb, you could see somewhere between 15 and 20 or so PSI. Please keep in mind that the factory posted these
No, factory. Drives the alternator and cooling fan to the left and used to drive the bus A/C compressor to the right. Compressor has been removed which is typical as the condensers and evaporators occupied and entire storage bay. One of the first things to go when someone converts.
Is it cheaper to work on a Detroit 2 Stroke diesel engine than other diesel engines like the Power Stroke 7.3 liter? I love my 2005 F-350 Super Duty but, the 6.0 liter power stroke in my truck right now is very un-reliable and I want to replace it with a Detroit 2 stroke 8V53. Is there a way I can fit a Detroit 8V53 2 stroke diesel engine in my 2005 Ford F-350? I need help... I need help to save money in the long run so I thought a Detroit 2stroke would be the right choice of engine for my truck. I would like to know your opinion on this. Please let me know. thank you..... A DETROIT DIESEL LOVER.
Was formerly the drive for an air conditioner unit, probably OEM when the bus was built. I would say that now that it's unladen, not enough HP loss to worry about removing it.
It could very well have one. The Intercooler on these highway engines is located in the airbox directly beneath the blower. It is cooled with jacket water.
Another comment about it, somebody replied that the right horizontal shaft was for driving a (now defunct and removed) air conditioning unit, that was probably part of the OEM equipment back when the bus was built.
Those exhaust clamps are also used a LOT on aircraft - when we install them - it's REQUIRED that you beat around the outside of the clamp with a hammer (Usually a plastic one) as we tighten them up to ensure that the two flanges are pulled together tightly and seal together.
these clamps are also used in turbo charged passenger cars that run high boost pressure.
Been there...popular clamp on the start/gen of an Old T64 of DHC 5.they even have the torque values on them.
@@threeparots1 And the Starter Gen of the PT6 on the DHC 6 that I've been working on!
@@normmcrae1140 I’ve worked on the PT-6 but mostly on hot sections and disassembly. The PT-6 is the best engine. I wish they had upgraded the Buffalo to the PW-150
@@threeparots1 We have a whole fleet of PT6.... Twatters (DHC6), Gooney Birds (BT67's) and King Airs. Mostly shut down right now, tho....
Love how neat his solar power is installed on his roof. Almost looks like the actual roof.
Why, thank you lol. I installed it.. 2300w of solar up there!
Wow...I didn’t realize they were them until I went to their channel! Saw their channel back in the summer when we knew we were going to get Dusty. The interior of their bus is awesomely sweet! She really knows how to make a 1980’s “gold faucet” look amazing!!!
Every mechanic should own a lot that includes its own test device (in this case, The Hill)...
That is what a dyno was invented for, they were originally called moving roads so you could test a vehicle in all different conditions and make changes. They make one's specifically for class 8 trucks which would also fit a bus.
sky hill ala davidsfarm
Lovely little sideways head from Leroy when the bus started up❤️
He thought.... hmmmm exhaust leak
@@BusGreaseMonkey Dont joke about it!! He could probably be trained to diagnose all sorts of things; fired up bearings, perished rubber, air leaks etc etc
hi! Scott seeing these big bus comming to your site and being able to park, turn around and get serve on your new property must make you feel good , all that work and time you have put in it, is serving you well, till you get that big garage done. tk's for your videos i need it badly with that covid house confined,
I always enjoy watching your Channel I am Big Bird from Jamaica I have been heavy duty bus mechanic for over 15 years whenever I whenever I have boots are leaking I check it out by applying my brakes then put the unit in Drive take time to rev the engine and you will hear a whistling sound coming from the leaked.
I'm a retiree but I wanted to let you know that I really enjoy watching your videos!
I love the different types of buses that comes into the shop and especially the hill.
It’s been my experience that the best way to find exhaust leaks is with a cold start. The white smoke leads you right to it. Did my case anyway.
Loving. The
Red
White & Bethune.
Got it now.
The last word is "Bethune"
Bethune is our last name 🥰
So a little trick for hard to read engravings, cover with paper and use a crayon or pencil to rub over it lightly and it will transfer the impressions.
That is genius!!
That much shaft play i'd say it's time to overhaul or replace the turbo
i guarantee that isn't out of spec. i've seen $1400 turbos that had barely any less than that out of the box
@@FUCK_________googIe It was replaced lol
Turbo boost more than doubled with the new turbo.
@@BusGreaseMonkey Thanks for the reply :-)
@@TommyboyGTP it must have had more than it looked like on the video. I've seen hx35's on cummins that made 35psi all day and had many many thousandths of end play
If you go to the Bus Grease Monkey hide away for service. You have to drive up the Dyno Hill for a performance check.
As a temp fix for the exhaust -> a little JB weld would mold itself in the voids once the clamps are tightened. The linkage, like I said earlier "that'll buff right out"!! -JK - a couple of new bell cranks are certainly in order.
Always loved an Eagle!!
Bus is probably just tired of dragging that other truck around!!
I LOVE Eagle buses even though they rust badly. Most of your country and southern gospel music artist drove them when new!
That hill of yours is a good turbo test. That turbo needs some work. Love your videos.👍👍👍
Sure is a big bus and a nice one too. I like the blue color
Hi Scott
Finding turbo boost issues is never as simple as one might think. Here are some things to check and deal with as you go through the process.
1 First, are you getting full rack from the Governor? Is the Goener responding properly? If you're not getting full rack it doesn't matter how much or how little the leaks there are you will never get proper turbo boost. Always check the rack first.
You definitely have some leaks happening.
Let's deal with the most important one for first is THE AIR FILTER. The air filter on this bus they don't make anymore and there is a reason for that they suffer from exactly the problems that this bus is suffering from. They tend to leak dirty air and dust the engine out which is why they quit making them years ago. When we installed air filters like this one we always put a little lithium grease around the ceiling surface the reason for this is so when you pull the air filter the next time you can see whether the filter sealing surface squeeze properly spotting any leaks of dirty air coming into the system right away.
The shiny and dented leading-edge on the compressor wheel of the turbo tells you that you have had dusted contamination through the turbo. The turbo is likely done just from that. The play on the shaft that you showed us without putting a dial gauge on tells me that we are past acceptable standards for this. So the turbo will likely have to be replaced if you want boost.
The exhaust clamps are done you need to replace exhaust clamps when we were putting the exhaust pipe back on between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. Tapping them lightly as you tighten the nut will help in collecting them properly.
You need to remove the exhaust manifold on the passenger side of the engine replace the gasket. When reinstalling the exhaust manifold do not tighten the bolts or squeeze the exhaust gasket. Install the turbo pipe from the exhaust manifold to the turbo. Do up all the clamps and ensure that you get everything in tight and sealed first. Once you have done this you can then tighten the bolts on the exhaust manifold. It is not the pipe that’s too short is the manifold That in the wrong spot. It was assembled in the wrong order. Rookie mistake
Once you have done all this and checked the turbo for compliance to standard Or replaced it you should have full turbo boost again.
If you are really unlucky you'll have to replace both the exhaust manifold and turbo and the pipe to get them to seal properly. They may have been working for so long that they will not ever properly sealed again.
Good luck
Leroy knows his Detroits. Good boy! 👍🐕RUFF! Love this channel!
A lot of play in that turbo shaft.
That turbo is shot.
@@porkbuttrocks If it was that shot the seals would be leaking oil
@@howardbeer5214 Yeah ok.
On my 7.3, I made a pressure unit that I could put compressed air while it wasn’t running. Then I’d spray everything down with soapy water to find any bubbles. That helped out a lot. Btw, I only put 25 psi.
I'd just cut the pipe on the straight with both V-bands bolted up solid and slide a 5 ply or better silicone coupler on there and a couple t-bolts to make up the difference. That should eliminate that charge pipe as a leak point. Don't know if it was mentioned already, but a very easy way to test for boost leaks is to take another coupler, clamp a PVC end cap pipe plug into it with an air fitting threaded with sealant into the plug, clamped on to the inlet side of the turbo. You then take your 'shop air' with the regulator turned down (as to not damage anything further,) and attach the air hose to the homemade boost leak tester and pressurize it. You'll hear air hissing from the leak point if there still is one after you've extended that charge pipe. Simple trick I've used for probably 20 years or so that requires no special tools, just an air compressor and a couple common things you can pretty much buy at any plumbing store. The turbo seems like it has a good amount of shaft play as well. They can be rebuilt pretty easy and rebuild kits are out there inexpensively. Let us know what you come up with. I'd be curious to know if the seals are blown out between the hot and cold side of the compressor.
That turbo needs to come out for overhaul...
Hi Scot, looks like every one of the Hiem joints in that shift assembly are completely worn out to the point that the one on top has fallen apart. if it had been on the lower side it would have dropped completey off!
The exhaust elbows from manifold to the turbo mount are supposed to have a flexible section in them. Not flex pipe, but a convoluted section of stainless. That is to take up minor differences in fit up with the manifold and turbo mount. I generally found about 12 pounds of boost on the Eagle with 6V92TA I owned. You might also want to turn the engine up to a maximum of 2300.
The exhaust clamps are called a marmon clamp and I noticed that on the manifold is a thicker than the exhaust pipe so it won't seal good!
Sometimes, if you get the mating surfaces real clean, and it's not too large a gap, you can put a bead of red silicone, install it, and let it sit till tomorrow, and you'll be amazed at how good it works to seal.
Bad joins on exhaust hope he got fixed quickly
As much as you were able to move that turbo fan from side to side like you did is obviously worn, plus it wasn't as free spinning as it should have been is a real sign it's worn out!
That’s why i showed it and needed the serial number to order the correct part. There is a Garrett tag on it but it’s not the detroit pn
Lot of problems discovered. Will there. Be a follow up? Love your videos of the old Detroit’s. Saw many of them when I was in the Navy. Always enjoyed the sound of one being properly driven. Thank you for sharing this video with your viewers.
I had a car with the little brother of that turbo (Garrett AiResearch T3) and it was running 4 psi boost (supposed to be 14) because the wastegate spring had weakened. Felt like I was driving a rocket ship when I fixed it. ;)
nice visual inspection...i use those same clamps for my pool pump lol
To me, that sounded like leak at charging side, but maybe that video audio was just off.
That wobble at turbo is not enough to cause that much power loss, it just leaks oil.
Exhaust leaks are easy to determite, just press plywood etc to end of exhaust pipe to create pressure, so you can feel the leaks when engine is idling.
Get some fireplace door thinking to work as a seal for the Vband clamps
This bus is louder than a Leopard2 tank! The Panzer (A6 and A7+) has a 1500 hp engine.
Looks like there should be an exhaust seal made of similar material as on small block Chevy's to help seal up that pipe. That would help out with the "short' looking pipe. My thoughts only.
I am sure that pipe leaking isn’t helping but they way that falls off without smoking you wonder if the fuel system needs some love
It's a shame that it would deafen you because Detroit diesels always sound amazing without any muffler!
A needle scaler would probably knock the corrosion off those exhaust fittings. Also that shift linkage is in bad shape. The one joint is completely broken and the other is worn out.
10 years ago:. Have you seen youtube. Today: everybody has a youtube channel.
That thing was struggling like hell to get up that hill
They make lead o rings that will make up.the space and conform to the mating surfaces.
in doing a little looking around.. high temp exhaust sealing compound. Silkolene 762. good for 800C.. smokes while curing. DO NOT BREATHE exhaust smoke and smoke from the joints while curing during engine run up to cure it. sit down for the price. its crazy expensive for a single tube. Detroit diesel sells it also..
Okay...do we get to see the solution?
This was just filmed today. Stay tuned
@@BusGreaseMonkey you cut that off pretty abruptly.
Should I stay up tonight waiting for you to resume? Lol
When you first moved to your property there was some rancor about naming the property. Just name “The Hill” LENNY HILL and put stickers on busses that make it that reads “I climbed Lenny Hill”.
I have a Series 50 Detroit on a 1995 Flixible Metro B 35ft Bus with that Allison Ht731V then I re put a Allison B500R 6 Speed Automatic
Some of those clevis joints had major slop in them also
Not sure what that PTO gearbox used to drive, but those exposed rotating shaft ends should be guarded for safety.
At 10:42...even the dog knows something t'aint right...LOL
Hi Scott, Love Leroy and I thinl he should have his own channel named Leroy the Diesal dog. My brother and I love the channel. Very cool vids.
It looks like it has two broken brass crush washers on it
So, it sounds like an exhaust leak. I would probably remove the exhaust manifolds and clean, measure straightness, and put new gaskets if it has any. Just my thoughts. I am sure there is more to it.
Good find on that one Scott. No wonder it leaked with the gap on that pipe. Was it ridged on both sides to move stuff around to eliminate the gap?
Pipe needs a spacer gasket
LOL! The Hill of Truth!
😂😂😂 love that name
For it
14:51 it's clear I've watched this channel too much. I could tell those weren't Scott's fingers.
17:18 Hiem joint is off the ball on throttle linkage?
Looked as if some one had tried to make a gasket that the exhaust pressure blew out
Granted I no nothing about 2 strokes but I find it interesting that there is low boost, lack of power and yet it doesn't smoke like a tire fire under load. Leaves me wondering if there isn't more than a turbo issue at play here?
I agree!
That is an indication of low power as a DeDec1 Detroit will not allow the injectors to apply full fuel if there isn’t sufficient boost from the turbo hence the reason for no smoke going up the hill. This also has the benefit of not getting pulled over by the police because due to a worn turbo you’d be blowing black smoke if it was straight mechanical. Thanks to Tyler Scott is learning the ins and out of the computerized 92 Detroit and finding it not quite as bad as he feared.
Remember the wanderlodge with the 8V92TA that was low on power and would constantly drop speed and gears climbing a hill? Primary reason for the low power on that Wanderlodge was the carpet installed at the factory wouldn’t let the throttle pedal reach the bolt that indicates to the driver your at full throttle. It only had been receiving a power signal from the throttle ( fully electronic) requesting no more than 75 percent power. Once Scott cut away the restricting carpet the throttle for the first time in it’s life was able to attain full throttle and the owner was amazed at the increase in power 450 HP ) . It always seems to be a conglomeration of small things that go wrong to create bigger problems.
Scott and Tyler have the knowledge and drive to figure out most any problems and fix them. I wouldn’t recommend going anywhere else if I needed service on my coach. Plus they give you a discount if you assist them working on your own bus and you gain knowledge of what to do.
In my option the best Detroit mechanics out there.
keep the videos coming
Looks like an oil leak from the rear of the right head very wet
Driver complained about fumes in bus. Be thankful you don't have to do change outs.
I would replace the Turbo intirely... I had a Turbo blow out on me which was starting to make a ticking noise.... (Tick/rattle noise)
It certainly wont hurt to replace the Turbo.
My recommendation is to change it. The play is very excessive
What was that shaft spinning , looked like drive shafts went to it. In front of the engine .
Old over the road Air conditioning
They had a 6 cly. Carrier A/C compressor mounted to the right side, and the swing-up door on the right is where the A/C condenser was mounted.
Turn off that flashlight before you put in your pocket!!😂😂
Turbo pipe just a little short. Worn out parts.
it needs a turbo the bearings are done
An exhaust flange on either side of the pipe joint pulling on each other.
What would you use the power take off on the front of the engine for?
The PTO miter box drives the alternator and cooling fan to the left (still connected). To the right, it used to drive the original bus A/C compressor that used to live in the empty compartment on the right side of the engine.
I worked on a lot of these Eagles with the 6V92T back in the early 80’s at Trailways, personally I think Eagle made a mistake using these engines they just don’t have the power like the 8V92T has, the 05 and 010 Eagle’s are heavy buses, from my own experience on them I wouldn’t recommend a 6V92T in a Eagle.
Yet they made lots of busses with non turbo 8v71, which has even less power.
@@JimBronson Your right, when I started working at Trailways in 1975 the 8V71 had around 300hp
I have several hundred thousand miles of trucking experience with 6v92's. I had a green 350 hp, and a silver one in another truck. The green one was okay, the silver setup was considerably better. Overall, those 6V's were okay on reasonably flat ground freeway running, once you got them wound right up. Compared to one green 8V that I ran, I thought those 6V's did alright. Absolutely useless on big hills or mountains, though.
What's their RUclips, I couldn't read it well enough and no link in description
Look at Red white and Bethune
It’s Red White and Bethune ❤️
With respect if the boost pressure is down it will be on the intake side where the problem lies . Yes the small amount of blow by on the clamps is not good I doubt very much if it would affect the boost pressure You should be looking for leaks after the blower not before . Boost is created after the turbine not whats driving it IE the exhaust Just saying
Everything before is needed to make the boost. Exhaust leaks have huge impacts on how much boost you get
on the clamps you tightened for the turbo, can you do a bubble test for leaks like you did on the air bags to see if it bubbles there by seeing if it leaks?
So he's gonna stretch that pipe out now, right?
-There is a tool for that, run to and look out in the back 40, Butler tool crib, one of the black bins along the back wall, high near the dark ceiling.. Oh, and don't forget to bring lunch on the way back ;}
I'd clean up those connections and put a skim coat of ultra copper on all surfaces and let it set up then one more light coat on top of that just on the pipe itself and bolt her together. I've used ultra copper for years and gasoline applications and my buddy uses it in his turbo applications too.
Does he have some kind of voltage issues with his headlights? 3:36
Loosen exhaust manifold nuts and slide exhaust manifold back to meet pipe the little things he is doing is not going to increase boost check for full throttle position model 10 Eagles are notorious for having throttle linkage problems
Did you see that thing pulling that Hill no smoke the injectors are not even going into full fuel position if they were with no turbo boost that thing should be rolling coal
Rick, of all the commentors you get the gold star 🌟. You are spot on in your diagnosis and correction.
The exhaust manifold mounts are purposely made with a bit of free play to compensate for the alignment of thos rigid pipes.
Turbo boost on these old engines is directly related to having 3 things at the same time:
Full throttle, Full rack and Full load. Which then and only then do you check the boost pressure.
At this point I would be very concerned with that ingestion of dust in the intake air.
It is going to full fuel. We had one just last week in for low boost. It was not going to full fuel and it had exhaust leaks. Depending on how large the injectors are we will see coal. This has smaller 1983 highway coach emissions compliance injectors. His towed vehicle is covered in soot so it does not have enough oxygen to burn the fuel it’s getting. It’s got some hp to gain from a larger injectors at some point.
I recently purchased an Eagle with that same engine, how much boost should it be making?
RP, the boost pressure on your engine is really predicated by several factors. Turbo part number, injector part number, general condition and "tune" of the engine, exhaust back pressure and air filter restriction. There is a wide range of airbox pressures listed for these engines. That said, as a rule of thumb, you could see somewhere between 15 and 20 or so PSI. Please keep in mind that the factory posted these
The specs were listed by the factory in "inches of mercury" not PSI.
Tipical eagle want pull a hill.
Sorry same as Patreon
It was released early on Patreon like most videos.
Is the transfer case on the back a custom bit of kit?
No, factory. Drives the alternator and cooling fan to the left and used to drive the bus A/C compressor to the right. Compressor has been removed which is typical as the condensers and evaporators occupied and entire storage bay. One of the first things to go when someone converts.
@@D2O2 Thanks for your reply.
Stay safe ✌️😎
Is it cheaper to work on a Detroit 2 Stroke diesel engine than other diesel engines like the Power Stroke 7.3 liter? I love my 2005 F-350 Super Duty but, the 6.0 liter power stroke in my truck right now is very un-reliable and I want to replace it with a Detroit 2 stroke 8V53. Is there a way I can fit a Detroit 8V53 2 stroke diesel engine in my 2005 Ford F-350? I need help... I need help to save money in the long run so I thought a Detroit 2stroke would be the right choice of engine for my truck. I would like to know your opinion on this. Please let me know. thank you..... A DETROIT DIESEL LOVER.
One heim joint is completely disconnected
Obviously and shocking that it still shifted
@@BusGreaseMonkey Looks like the bearing/bushing into the housing on the left is wollered out too, seemed the rod flopped around quite a bit.
Is there supposed to be a sealing donut like on VW Heat exchangers
Any idea how steep the driveway is?
Great way to test power.
What is the pto used for? is it redundant and should be removed for every hp you can get?
I was wondering about that to.
Was formerly the drive for an air conditioner unit, probably OEM when the bus was built. I would say that now that it's unladen, not enough HP loss to worry about removing it.
How about putting an intercooler on one of these? You think that may make a difference?
Not enough to be worth the hassle or the expense, in my opinion.
It could very well have one. The Intercooler on these highway engines is located in the airbox directly beneath the blower. It is cooled with jacket water.
better ck cold side close turbo operates from heat produced not exh pressure
At 12:41
I posted it on the community tab 6 hours ago
💯
I dont hear no music playing.
I do. It's called a Detroit :)
@@BusWithUs. You win the internet for the day!
What the Eagle lacks in musical horn it makes up for in style.. love the look of the Eagles!
@@GinosGarageUSA i always wanted an egale but they can have so many problems
@@michaelmartin7375 Yea, that's why I ended up with an MCI and then a Wanderodge.. most of the Eagles I looked at were badly rusted.
What percentage of buses have boost issues on there engines??? Peace
All most
Is this a musical group?
No, family channel traveling and bus life
No, you wouldn’t want to hear us sing 😂😂
Hello wish you all happy travels and stay safe out there take care.
@@stevenbrennon9284 thank you so much!! Happy travels!! ❤️ 🚎
@@Beingbethunes Same to youall if youall are around the northeast watch out for snow ❄️ have heard they have had quite a bit up there take care
Scott, What VPN do you recommend. Do you still have a discount code?
Get Surfshark VPN at surfshark.deals/BGM and enter promo code BGM for 84% discount and 4 extra months for free!
@@BusGreaseMonkey Thank You!!
What kind of transmission is that and is the purposeof the two spinning shafts out to the sides???
I think that is the fan drive.
Another comment about it, somebody replied that the right horizontal shaft was for driving a (now defunct and removed) air conditioning unit, that was probably part of the OEM equipment back when the bus was built.
can you hook up a boost gauge ?
Was that the throttle linkage which has the top one come apart?
Transmission linkage
@@BusGreaseMonkey Ohh? Thanks. Tired now so uumm sleep time.
@@BusGreaseMonkey Just listening to your 671. The one in the GM dozer was a real Green Leaker.