Toyonda K Swap Harness full install MR2 sw20 1991-1999
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- Toyonda 206 K swap harness for k20 or k24 to go in a Toyota MR2 sw20 1991-1995 this one is used with Hondata k pro version 4 and Acura RSX Base 5 speed manual engine harness. Can use a 2002-2005 Honda Civic EP3 SI motor harness or 2002-2004 RSX Type S 6 speed harness with how we did this. Toyonda offers different options to be added to or use in different ways. This is a standard harness sold for $375.00 to be used with k pro for k20 or k24. AEM or Innovate wide band must be used directly to the annalog plug wires to hondata k pro. This k swap harness does not have the option for any oxygen sensors. Going Turbo 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999
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Cosistency and accuracy of this video content is superb! I appreciate for this tutorial.
Glad it was helpful!
Wow thanks so much. All these other videos aren’t as clear as yours! Thanks again!
Glad you like it we got the car running good, I may post a short video tonight then I’ll finish the one how to run alternator, starter, and shift cables
Im glad someone actually take the time to look at our instructions. Thank you.
Do you mind if we share this ?
Lol you’re welcome! Please share away! I will also do one on the mounts, trans shifter bracket and clutch line over the next couple of weeks. I’ll try not to make it as long and repetitive as this one lol. I’ll be breaking it into multiple videos for a full swap as I should have done for this one lol.
Sent you an email.
Thanks. It's really helpful.
Just became your #500 subscriber. Helpful video.
Awesome, glade it helped!
Thanks buddy. Just got my harness couple weeks ago. Watched it 3 times already. This definitely going to help me out
Good deal! I’m glad it help!
Just finished doing mine. How did you do your charge harness?
@@macklin9708 the mr2 stock starter wire should be long enough to reach the k starter, if not use part of the old k charge harness to modify it if needed if you have one. The stock alternator wire that you cut/modified will go straight to the alternator 10mm charge spot. When I crunk the motor outside the car I had to add a 4gauge wire to the stock starter wire for it to reach outside the car.
After this i feel far less intimidated. Thank you
Good deal!
@@i4boosting328 and now I’m back watching the video and actually doing this myself lol.
@@mickeyyy7571 how’s it coming along? Were you able to do the wire harness?
Oh man. Thank you thank you thank you! Been waiting for someone to make a detailed video for the wiring. Great stuff. Subscribed. Can't wait to see what's to come.
Glad it helped and thx! I will be doing a full swap on my black mr2 1st and I’ll be posting step by step for it non turbo at 1st and then turbo on the white one
Just got my Toyonda plug n play harness in today. Debating if I should do the wire harness myself or use your video to do it myself.
The last 2 mr2’s I wired up I didn’t even take the harness out of the car I left it in the car and pull out what I didn’t need in the engine bay and pulled everything else in and out of firewall and cut all the other wires just under the door seal carpet area and heat shrinked the ends of all that wasn’t used incase anyone wanted to come back and use them for something
@@i4boosting328 sorry I meant to say “mail it in to Toyonda or use your video to do it myself.” I think I’m gonna try to at least make an attempt using your video here as a reference. Thanks for the help!
Dude this helped a lot 💪🏼
Hey there. Loved the video. Does it have provisions for the ac?
Awesome video! Very detailed.
Thx! Glad you liked it.
Does these wires get deleted gray covered 2 wire plug on harness
Thanks for the great detailed video, but is there anything I would need to do different if I were to use the Toyota e153 transmission? I have the hux cannibal kit so I will be a k24a2 engine mated to the Toyota transmission. I’m trying to keep the mr2 cluster working as stock. Speedo Is cable driven so im assuming it’ll work, but what about the other warning lights or tachometer..I would like it to still work. You touched on it at 30:56. I’m planning to do it myself and I want to be sure before I start cutting up the harness so this video has been amazing. Your input to my issue would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
I’d love to use a e153 with one of my MR2’s. They are so much stronger than the k series trans. Your Speedo will continue to work fine with the cable. Tach wise, the kpro is digital where the mr2 cluster is analog so it’ll be off a bit. You can still add a shift light with your check engine light. The main problem your gonna have is boost by gear, launch 🚀 control safety deactivation or anything that needs the vss going from trans to ecu. There are ways around it but Eric Hux will most likely have a solution. I personally haven’t ran a setup like that through the shop. If no boost no problem lol but I think you can get around it fairly easy. Launch control has a safety to shut off after a couple miles per hour other than not having the safety shut off it should be fine and if your running a manual boost controller there will be no problem. Electronic boost controller the boost by gear and quick spool May have issues. Since it works off of tach and speed to determine what gear it’s in from how I understand it. Hope that helps!
@@i4boosting328 Looking at the toyonda site for the harness it says the tachometer for 91/92 mr2 will not work without a resistor mod. Do you know anything about that? I did some research and found people put a 10ohm resistor for the stock cluster tach to work when swapping a 2gr, but nothing on a k-swap. Maybe i can reach out to the toyonda people for that information? Ill be running their harness and will be following this guide of yours for the wiring. I will eventually be boosting the car, but ill cross those issues when i have money to buy a turbo for it haha. Ill enjoy yhe car NA first. Any information helps so i do appreciate you taking your time to answer my question.
@@thangcacdi hey man, how is your build coming along? I have 93 sw21 shell with jdm k24a and 08 si 6 speed trans. At this point I’m just getting the engine ready to drop in. I’m doing the whole, RBC intake manifold, type s oil pump, 50 degree VTC cam gear setup up. People say this swap is easy and maybe it is once you have all the parts! To me, it’s all of the little stuff that adds up
On my harness there’s 2 identical coolant temp wires (green and yellow) how do I know what the right one is?
And what white with a black stripe wire do I use the one coming from the tail lights or the one from the front of the car?
Would you happen to know how to upgrade the fuel pump wiring? I didn't do the wire upgrade when i bought the diy harness but i installed a 340lph pump and now i'm having low voltage issues. If you could possibly make a video on how to do it with the existing fuel pump relay that would be awesome and greatly appreciated. I did buy a fuel pump wiring kit that includes a relay, terminals, and a circuit breaker( which i'll replace with an inline fuse holder) i just don't know how to wire it in.
What brand 340lph pump? I only run name brand pumps in MR2’s due to how complicated it is to install them. With the relay wiring that is in the Toyonda diy harness it should be plenty efficient without voltage drop unless there is a problem with your actual wiring going to the pump. Check your ground to the relays and make sure it is a great connection and add another ground wire to it and ground it somewhere else as well. The main power wire that connects to the other 2 relays that go to that large power wire should be great. But you can run that single power wire from the fuel pump relay straight to the battery. Maybe you have a little corrosion somewhere in that big power wire. I have seen them all green and gross before. Try and check ground 1st. Then you can try taking the main power wire for relay and run straight to battery like a true hard wire. Then if your still having problems check wiring to the actual fuel pump because the cars are getting old. And if that’s not it it’s the pump or pump housing.
4 wires to a relay: main power from battery 30, the ground, and the signal in and out, hope that helps
You can take ash tray out and open that little panel under it and let a friend stick a volt meter on your fuel pump plug to make sure you are voltage dropping under a load. If your not watch your fuel pressure. I just had one picking up trash in tank and messing up the flow and pressure
@@i4boosting328 I noticed hux saying that anything more powerful than a 255 can cause these issues. I didn't have issues with the oem na pump but I switched to an aeromotive. Aeromotive suggests to switch to 10awg to support the increased draw. I'm having issues knowing exactly which wires. I'm a visual type of person. I did clean the tank prior to installing the fuel pump and the wires in the tank on the hanger looked to be fine.
@@i4boosting328 the fuel pressure only drops once the engine is on. With key just in the on position without the engine on it primes but as soon as I start the car and the engine is on the fuel pressure drops to zero.
Check the voltage on the pump as your priming it, cranking it, and when it 1st starts. If it is still getting decent voltage and not dropping down bad (it will drop some til it cranks, shouldn’t drop after crunk at idle) you’ll have to start eliminating each potential problem along the way. Pump, fuel feed and return lines, fpr, fuel gauge and vents on tank. I’m not sure what type of fuel rail and regulator your running and if it’s return less stock k series fuel rail you have to run fpr a certain way.
Would a ktuner work be same idea
Yes if you use the 02-04 rsx or ep3 harness and ecu . I haven’t personally used a 05-06. You can with 05-06 but it’s more costly. Your wiring into the c101 plug and e plug to use the factory style computer so it doesn’t matter if it’s k pro or k tuner
You can run it like this with stock ecu