I just replaced the Passenger Rear wheel bearing assembly on my gf's 2005 Dodge Neon. It was simple thanks to this guy! I used a 30mm Axle Socket incase anyone was still wondering
I got the exact same kit few months ago for about $100. I am thrilled with it. I even managed to take the axle nuts off my rusted Maxima. My mechanic was laughing when I told him I wanted to try my new impact but he was no longer laughing when I removed that bolt. Frankly, I did not expect this gun to have that much power. Unfortunately, I am a chicken and most of the car work is done by my mechanic. I just hang around and help him with my tools. I am glad I discovered your channel
Thank you for making this video. My NEON has 170K miles and I heard a lot of vibration as my speed increased. In addition, the NEON would pull one way when I accelerated and pull another way upon letting go of the accelerator (gas pedal). Because of this, I replaced all four bearings and hubs. Now the NEON rides firm and doesn't move around and is quite. Thank you again for this video!
Exactly what’s going on with my neon now rear driver I’m just going to put brand new ones on both rear since I’m already going to replace one. I always replace both sides at same time !! Good job done!!!
Love this video! Exactly what I needed to know from the test drive to the repair. My daughter said hers was making more noise while turning, but I didn't see how that could be possible. Now I witnessed it. Thanks!
Thank you for the feed back its greatly appreciated, I went on vacation a couple times to Canada when i was younger to see the falls, The wife and I went on our honey moon their as well, good times. Thanks again Will
i would argue that... however due what you will,,what i use is Anti-Seize Lubricant which is highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricant high temperature compound which prevents seizing, galling and corrosion.use on bolts, nuts, fittings, studs and pins.and will assist with a more accurate torque if used correctly you dont want to glob it on. Meets Mil -A907E specs. Withstands temperatures from -65°F to 2000°F (-54°C to 1093°C). use it daily. someday you will thank me .
if your talking about the teeth on the wheel hub, back part...it's now universal that all of them for a dodge neon have the "abs" ring on them. my car don't have abs but it still works for the car
This video is very timely, I have to do an inspection on a 2003 neon a friend bought. I will be going over the entire car to make sure its good to go for her. Its at 95k . My opinion on the car is to get a time line set for maintence , IE change belts , hoses, coolant, oil, plugs, wires. These parts may be ok, but I( she ) needs to be able to know that these things were done at so and so mileage and use that as a reference point for future maintenence. Its a used car so thats what I do
i believe your referring lip where the shoes don't contact the drum that hangs up when removing ? i clean the inner surface that mates to the hub and the lip at the same time. under the rust is a small step most times from the drum wearing. however knocking the rust off that step helps allot.
The rear ones are easy as can be but the front ones are going to be a lot more challenging. Luckily for me it was only a rear one on mine or I would have taken it to a mechanic.
I remember I had a Neon with a bad rear hub bearing. My Uncle changed it for me in less than a half hour. It is almost as easy as changing a tire. It really did surprise me it is THAT easy. Now if it was a front one it would have gone to a mechanic, he is not one.
Excellent video. About to tackle this job on my 98 protege. Looks to be about the same. The assembly I got for mine doesn't have the teeth on the back part but I did see some that did. What's the difference in the two?
I do recommend it, love that impact saved me more than once and for the videos it keeps the noise down, at time i still need to break out the air on frozen bolts or break loose with a breaker bar then use the impact, however for the most part it surprises me on its own. Love it. yes its the C3 19.2-Volt Cordless 1/2" Wrench Kit 17339
yea i love it not sure if you seen my other videos however i use it allot it takes an abuse and keeps going. i own few of cordless impacts including big names. this is the one i go for. i have 2 batteries and a quick charger love it. had this one about 7 months or more. original nimh batts
Sounds like you may have a Wheel bearing failing, need to isolate the source, can be tricky sometimes in the early stages, if its the back than that's easier to determine, jack up and spin the wheel by hand feel for any play side to side up/down, if need be remover the wheel and drum spin while feeling for any roughness, now if its the front do the same, however you may need to jack one side at a time apply E-brake and run/engage trans try to simulate/isolate which side, use extreme caution.
anti seize. blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricant high temperature compound which prevents seizing, galling and corrosion.use on bolts, nuts, fittings, studs and pins.and will assist with a more accurate torque. small amount goes a long way is key, if your thinking it will allow the bolts to come loose on their own. no worries there's, tight is tight this will just prohibit corrosion
Anti seize will allow the wheel nuts to come off easier in the future but I have second thoughts about using it on wheel studs as well as caliper mounting bolts. Is there not a safety concern here ?
Hey thanks a lot for the video I can definitely change this on my girlfriends car no problem but my only question is what size socket did you use to take that lock nut off
thank you, glad you enjoyed... found it way easier than trying to explain it she had like 3 different sounds i would of sounded like a rookie beatboxer lol
Where the drum mates to the hub is fine and recomend it to have anti seize, but it is not ever a good idea to put anti-seize on the studs both at my trade school and college has said that it screws up the torque spec. Not only that it can goop up the threads.
My pt cruiser rear wheel on passenger side sort of shakes a little when it was lifted. Is it hard to just replace the bearing itself or is it better to get the whole new part
Hey Robin, do yo recommend that craftsman Impact to DIY at home ,cuz man I am trying to buy one handy and not noisy like air compressor or expansive brand names, Oh by the way is that C3 19.2-Volt Cordless 1/2" Wrench Kit 17339 >>? Please Advice.
My 02 Mazda protege has a similar problem, whenever I hot a pothole or speed bump, my rear right brakes makes a noise, I checked it out and the rotor its a bit loose, does that just mean I need new pads and rotors?
I just bought a 2001 neon and when u drive it the whole rear end shift right every time u driving the car pass 10 mph and we check the tire is wabble the same way in the video is it possible that the wheel bearing can be causing it
You AND your video rock! No, I didn't have the cordless impact...but I did use a 5 ft cheater bar LOL Thanks for saving me money and time...I will be watching all your videos. I used this on a 2000 KIA btw.
thats a great deal. things seem to always go on sale after i buy them lol cant go wrong at that price. glad you discovered the channel as well. i also have a website with all my videos in user friendly categories. along with other helpful info. and a free to join forum. feel free to stop in any time and check it out. there's a link in the video description. toolsandtime. com
lol not that much, some times i get nasty looks especially after i build a nice small block or something and smoke up the alley, i race 358 modified dirt track... one time a neighbor came over while i was tuning it, didn't realize he was there and snapped the throttle, oops thought i gave him a heart attack, never seen someone jump so fast lol guess he never was near that much HP
Always use anti-seize on the studs. You don't need much. It makes it more accurate when you torque the nuts to spec AND it makes it easier to get the nuts off next time. Now, dealing with cars like this one where it would have had capped lug nuts, the caps themselves will eventually allow moisture to get in the nut itself as the cap loosens over time, it builds up rust obviously. Like he said, if you don't think it needs it, then don't use it. I do. 38+ years of repairing and building cars professionally. I have yet to have an issue. Whether you use never seize or not, if you cross thread a nut (which many claim is the reason they couldn't get a lugnut off when it was actually .... RUST!! LOL) you probably shouldn't be working on a vehicle.
I notice my wheel was wobbling when I was changing the tire today and when I lowered it from the jack the wheel looks like it was tucking in can it be the same hub issue?
I just replaced the Passenger Rear wheel bearing assembly on my gf's 2005 Dodge Neon. It was simple thanks to this guy! I used a 30mm Axle Socket incase anyone was still wondering
DesertEagle90 that was going to be my first question, he didn't mention the size, thanks
DesertEagle90 thanks I needed that!
nice job
Good looking out man!
30mm Socket on my 03 Neon.
Hope I saved some of you some time.
thank god you said it. annoying when ppl dont give the details that matter
Yes yes. Thank you.
You did
Thank you
That was the only reason I watched this... Life saver
I got the exact same kit few months ago for about $100. I am thrilled with it. I even managed to take the axle nuts off my rusted Maxima. My mechanic was laughing when I told him I wanted to try my new impact but he was no longer laughing when I removed that bolt. Frankly, I did not expect this gun to have that much power. Unfortunately, I am a chicken and most of the car work is done by my mechanic. I just hang around and help him with my tools. I am glad I discovered your channel
Thank you for making this video. My NEON has 170K miles and I heard a lot of vibration as my speed increased. In addition, the NEON would pull one way when I accelerated and pull another way upon letting go of the accelerator (gas pedal). Because of this, I replaced all four bearings and hubs. Now the NEON rides firm and doesn't move around and is quite. Thank you again for this video!
Exactly what’s going on with my neon now rear driver I’m just going to put brand new ones on both rear since I’m already going to replace one. I always replace both sides at same time !! Good job done!!!
Love this video! Exactly what I needed to know from the test drive to the repair. My daughter said hers was making more noise while turning, but I didn't see how that could be possible. Now I witnessed it. Thanks!
Thank you for the feed back its greatly appreciated, I went on vacation a couple times to Canada when i was younger to see the falls, The wife and I went on our honey moon their as well, good times. Thanks again Will
i would argue that... however due what you will,,what i use is Anti-Seize Lubricant which is highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricant high temperature compound which prevents seizing, galling and corrosion.use on bolts, nuts, fittings, studs and pins.and will assist with a more accurate torque if used correctly you dont want to glob it on. Meets Mil -A907E specs. Withstands temperatures from -65°F to 2000°F (-54°C to 1093°C).
use it daily. someday you will thank me
.
if your talking about the teeth on the wheel hub, back part...it's now universal that all of them for a dodge neon have the "abs" ring on them. my car don't have abs but it still works for the car
thank you for posting this. now i can jump into this repair and know what im getting into before i start.
man what a good friend, being proactive will save in the long run. good luck with it
This video is very timely, I have to do an inspection on a 2003 neon a friend bought. I will be going over the entire car to make sure its good to go for her. Its at 95k . My opinion on the car is to get a time line set for maintence , IE change belts , hoses, coolant, oil, plugs, wires. These parts may be ok, but I( she ) needs to be able to know that these things were done at so and so mileage and use that as a reference point for future maintenence. Its a used car so thats what I do
i believe your referring lip where the shoes don't contact the drum that hangs up when removing ? i clean the inner surface that mates to the hub and the lip at the same time. under the rust is a small step most times from the drum wearing. however knocking the rust off that step helps allot.
OMG WHY CANT THE FRONT ONES BE THIS FREAKING EASY? Haha. Ty so much!
Fronts are easy
The rear ones are easy as can be but the front ones are going to be a lot more challenging. Luckily for me it was only a rear one on mine or I would have taken it to a mechanic.
That Zamn Bearing sound like a smooth running Open Face Reel!
I remember I had a Neon with a bad rear hub bearing. My Uncle changed it for me in less than a half hour. It is almost as easy as changing a tire. It really did surprise me it is THAT easy. Now if it was a front one it would have gone to a mechanic, he is not one.
Excellent video. About to tackle this job on my 98 protege. Looks to be about the same. The assembly I got for mine doesn't have the teeth on the back part but I did see some that did. What's the difference in the two?
My thoughts exactly, i was impressed as well. and this gun is used hard close to a year and still the same batteries. love it
I do recommend it, love that impact saved me more than once and for the videos it keeps the noise down, at time i still need to break out the air on frozen bolts or break loose with a breaker bar then use the impact, however for the most part it surprises me on its own. Love it. yes its the C3 19.2-Volt Cordless 1/2" Wrench Kit 17339
yea i love it not sure if you seen my other videos however i use it allot it takes an abuse and keeps going. i own few of cordless impacts including big names. this is the one i go for. i have 2 batteries and a quick charger love it. had this one about 7 months or more. original nimh batts
love this video...now im going to do the exact same thing to my neon when the weather is right. save me more money doing it myself...
Sounds like you may have a Wheel bearing failing, need to isolate the source, can be tricky sometimes in the early stages, if its the back than that's easier to determine, jack up and spin the wheel by hand feel for any play side to side up/down, if need be remover the wheel and drum spin while feeling for any roughness, now if its the front do the same, however you may need to jack one side at a time apply E-brake and run/engage trans try to simulate/isolate which side, use extreme caution.
Awesome, I loved that you took us out for a ride, and tried to recreate/show the problem. Keep it up!
anti seize. blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricant high temperature compound which prevents seizing, galling and corrosion.use on bolts, nuts, fittings, studs and pins.and will assist with a more accurate torque.
small amount goes a long way is key, if your thinking it will allow the bolts to come loose on their own. no worries there's, tight is tight this will just prohibit corrosion
Anti seize will allow the wheel nuts to come off easier in the future but I have second thoughts about using it on wheel studs as well as caliper mounting bolts. Is there not a safety concern here ?
Thanks for the video! I just finished my girlfriend's car. The torque specs and everything were right. I double checked.
You just saved me a ton of money. I can do this myself. Thanks.
Hey thanks a lot for the video I can definitely change this on my girlfriends car no problem but my only question is what size socket did you use to take that lock nut off
30mm
thank you, glad you enjoyed... found it way easier than trying to explain it she had like 3 different sounds i would of sounded like a rookie beatboxer lol
watched video...changed bearing in 12 minutes lol thanks a ton
Thank you for posting the how to video's.... I noticed on the test drive a Turkey Hill and US29 sign.... Cedar Crest ? Emmaus?
Where the drum mates to the hub is fine and recomend it to have anti seize, but it is not ever a good idea to put anti-seize on the studs both at my trade school and college has said that it screws up the torque spec. Not only that it can goop up the threads.
Thanks for making this a lot easier for me .i have my mileage Gage on even after i take the key out it will not shut off any ideas ?
I see that you got the Craftsman C3 impact wrench there! Do you standard NiMh or did you upgrade it to Lithium? How is it holding up?
Thanks for the vid! Do you remember by chance the big nylon nut size? I don't have many big sockets and I want to buy it before I start. Thanks!
My pt cruiser rear wheel on passenger side sort of shakes a little when it was lifted. Is it hard to just replace the bearing itself or is it better to get the whole new part
Is it appropriate to grind off that small lip of rust on the inside of the drum, to make it easier to get off next time?
Hey Robin, do yo recommend that craftsman Impact to DIY at home ,cuz man I am trying to buy one handy and not noisy like air compressor or expansive brand names, Oh by the way is that C3 19.2-Volt Cordless 1/2" Wrench Kit 17339 >>? Please Advice.
Muchas gracias por tu video esta muy bueno y muy sencillo cambiar los baleros
My 02 Mazda protege has a similar problem, whenever I hot a pothole or speed bump, my rear right brakes makes a noise, I checked it out and the rotor its a bit loose, does that just mean I need new pads and rotors?
you make it plain and simple, thank you for posting the video. Do you also work on ECMs ?
Good info on the rear bearings replacement. How to do it. Thanks
I just bought a 2001 neon and when u drive it the whole rear end shift right every time u driving the car pass 10 mph and we check the tire is wabble the same way in the video is it possible that the wheel bearing can be causing it
You AND your video rock! No, I didn't have the cordless impact...but I did use a 5 ft cheater bar LOL Thanks for saving me money and time...I will be watching all your videos. I used this on a 2000 KIA btw.
Thanks this was very informative and useful. Saved me some money not to mention!
thats a great deal. things seem to always go on sale after i buy them lol cant go wrong at that price.
glad you discovered the channel as well. i also have a website with all my videos in user friendly categories. along with other helpful info. and a free to join forum. feel free to stop in any time and check it out. there's a link in the video description. toolsandtime. com
Thanks for this video. I was offered to buy this car, but it has this same issue.
+Emmanuel Morales BUy it and be a man and get the tools to fix it lol
+Marc Kolz Thanks for the advice
Great video,easy to understand,easy to follow.
Thanks so much from Canada.
Keep up the the great video's.
Cheers Mike
thank you for the compliment, makes it worth the time
robinsonauto will this make the wheel lock up?
was that a timken hub assembly?
Hmmm.... I think I may know that customer. That car looks familiar. The paint job is unmistakable. Lol
You wouldn't happen to recall the size of the socket you used on that hub nut would ya?
hi! do you have a video on how to remove & replace the rear wheel bearing of a ford focus hatchback model 2005? if none, can you please advise how?
what size socket you use to take that nut of with?
i just hit the rear tire on curb and now the car start shaking, it seems like urs the bearing, so im going to do it tomorrow hope the bearing
What size socket you use to remove the large nut to release the hub?
+Christian Flores I used a 32mm deepwell impact socket.
What size socket you use?
lol not that much, some times i get nasty looks especially after i build a nice small block or something and smoke up the alley, i race 358 modified dirt track... one time a neighbor came over while i was tuning it, didn't realize he was there and snapped the throttle, oops thought i gave him a heart attack, never seen someone jump so fast lol guess he never was near that much HP
Love your videos. Well done and very informative.
Aprox how much is labor for that?
Thank you so much, this helped a lot!
whats your opinion on honda cars? :P
Old one doesnt have abs ring?
Does it matter much if it's torqued?
I was wondering the same
thanks you for the compliment
One of my new hub bearing won't fit on stub axle. Any ideas?
+Fernando Leiva They sent/gave you the wrong bearing
Great break down
Nice job Will.
Another great video!
thank you
lol yea it is pretty unmistakable isn't it... lol that cracked me up
popular car nice,do you have any neighbors that like to complain for no reason lo.
BUMP THEM I prefer to use anti-seize and the only downfall is it sticks to everything. that jar goes a long way
Nice job buddy
good video thanks!
Thanks!
thanks will...
Thanks
why put anti seize on wheel studs? It is not necessary to do that! It is more important not to cross thread the nut.
Always use anti-seize on the studs. You don't need much. It makes it more accurate when you torque the nuts to spec AND it makes it easier to get the nuts off next time. Now, dealing with cars like this one where it would have had capped lug nuts, the caps themselves will eventually allow moisture to get in the nut itself as the cap loosens over time, it builds up rust obviously. Like he said, if you don't think it needs it, then don't use it. I do. 38+ years of repairing and building cars professionally. I have yet to have an issue. Whether you use never seize or not, if you cross thread a nut (which many claim is the reason they couldn't get a lugnut off when it was actually .... RUST!! LOL) you probably shouldn't be working on a vehicle.
@@kristyj796 you dont know shit, you should retire
30mm
160 torque wrench
Foot pounds
Prolly the stupidest thing to have to show people to do i mean the fronts are way more complicated the rears are easy a 12 year old could do them.
I notice my wheel was wobbling when I was changing the tire today and when I lowered it from the jack the wheel looks like it was tucking in can it be the same hub issue?
That sounds like you didnt tighten the lug nuts enough. Use a torque wrench to tighten your lugs between 80-100lbs