My Favorite Food Safe Wood Finish for Tried and True Original Finish non-toxic wood bowls Video
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- Опубликовано: 20 янв 2020
- Tried and True Original Wood Finish is my favorite finish for many reasons. First, it's food safe and non-toxic. Tried and True has only natural ingredients and only two at that; linseed oil and beeswax. It is super easy to apply and it offers an elegant natural finish that lets the texture and grain of the wood take the spotlight. I use this product on the majority of my wood turned bowls.
In this video, I show exactly how to apply Tried and True Original using the simple and easy three-step method recommended by the manufacturer.
By the way, I am not paid to promote this product by the manufacturer. I'm recommending this product because I use it regularly and I believe it is the best option when applying a natural-looking, yet durable finish to wooden bowls.
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Read this article on my website that details everything you need to know about my favorite food-safe wood finish
turnawoodbowl.com/favoritefinish
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In this video I use several products, here are the links:
3M Respirator - amzn.to/31CQn0K
respirator changeable filters - amzn.to/3mgJeuY
See all my woodturning safety gear recommendations
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Tried and True Original Non-Toxic Wood Finish:
1 Gallon Size - amzn.to/2NgHPW7
1 Quart Size - amzn.to/2Tg8FSj
1 Pint Size - amzn.to/2TnGVLH
0000 Steel Wool - amzn.to/383cdLV
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I really enjoyed this video, Kent! Finishing is a mystery for many and these demos really help easily overwhelmed turners, like myself, see the application, effort and end result without lots of expense. I look forward to more.
I got the Tried and True Original Non-Toxic Wood Finish: Love it. Thanks so much. You are a great teacher.
Wonderful, Kenneth! Thanks and Happy Turning!
I've been using Tried and True for a while even before getting into turning, it's a great finish
Just Beautiful 😍! Stunning work!
A successful part of your videos is that you are a great teacher. Everything down to the review at the end :) Thx
Thanks Michael! Much appreciated! Happy Turning!
Thanks Kent just got my tried and try finish to my latest project and I love how it makes the grain come out thanks again
Wonderful, Hank. Enjoy and Happy Turning!
As always Kent another fantastic video, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thank you and Happy Turning!
Great tip on that finish, not familiar with it. Have always been a walnut oil fan and beeswax. The burnishing is a great idea which I will try as opposed to buffing the walnut oil. Thanks and happy turning from MT
Ordered some and tried it out.. FANTASTIC....Thanks for the suggestion....
Glad you like it! Happy Turning!
This is very helpful. I make cutting boards and finding a good food-safe finish has been a challenge. Thank you!
You are welcome. Glad this helps!
Because of you I went and bought Tried and true linseed with pine resin. I really love it, this is perfect. Thank you for sharing.
Excellent, Trippy. Enjoy and Happy Turning!
I love Tried and True products. They give a nice sheen and I don’t have to worry about toxins. I think most folks that have trouble with this finish don’t follow the directions and apply too much - then it doesn’t cure in 24 hrs. Again, love the video and love the product. Highly recommended for artistic pieces and pieces that require a safe finish.
Thanks for sharing, John. Yes, great product indeed. Happy Turning!
Great tutorial, I learned a lot. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Happy Turning!
Enjoyed your video! Definitely going to use it on my next bowl. Thanks
Awesome! Thank you! Enjoy! Happy Turning!
Your website is awesome. Tons of information. I'm new to turning and haven't started my first project yet. I was given a Shop Smith and getting it all cleaned up and will start turning wood soon. Thanks for all your tutorials. 🇺🇸👍😎
Welcome and enjoy Please remember; persistent, patient practice will yield the bowls you are imagining right now! All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I really like your video to give me some new ideas how to finish things one question how long does this product last on the Shelf and can you use something besides steel wool
I’m going to try this
To my regret I missed this lesson when it first came out. For the last couple of months I have been applying Tried and True to my bowls. Having only the written instructions to refer to, I applied a super-thin amount of T&T, and I mean super-thin. This video showed me that I have been taking waaay too long to apply it. Thank you very much for the clarification!
Glad you have it now. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Ordered some today, thanks
Enjoy
Turned out nice
Thanks
Thank you so much for the video. I cook professionally and have recently purchased myself a new chef knife. The knife is amazing, but the handle is essentially raw magnolia wood. This seems like a perfect way to safely seal the wood against food and repeated cleaning.
Should work well and makes a nice finish to the touch too. Enjoy!
Interesting, I use flaxseed oil on my spoons. Thanks for the info.
You bet!
Hi Kent,
I usually apply only linseed oil to the bowls and goblets that I turn.
I think it's important to emphasize that if someone wishes to apply linseed oil to their wooden bowls, he/she should only buy it in designated health shops / supermarkets, which is food-safe.
The boiled linseed oil that is being sold in various hardware / paint shops - is mixed with chemicals and is very toxic and should only be used for furniture, etc. - never for coating wooden bowls, cups and spoons.
That being said, thanks for all of your videos - you are an excellent teacher and I love watching your material.
I understand your point. That is why I recommend Tried and True products. They are all pure and food-safe. Thanks and Happy Turning!
I have no earthly idea why I watched this…I don’t turn bowls, pens or anything….but I did find this to be a relaxing video to watch with my morning coffee. And the bowls are beautiful. I do however, restore old woodworking tools and rescued furniture. I am a fan of Tried and True (my favorite is the Varnish Oil). Of other value is the recommended respirator! I would guess that turning bowls, like the woodworking I do, keeps one out of sight of the wife…and the risk of having more additions to the “honey do” list! Thank you, sir!
All thumbs up here. LOL All the best to you and Happy … Woodworking!
Love T&T finishes! I add one step: I follow steel wool burnishing with a paper towel burnish to make sure I’ve gotten all of the steel wool dust off the surface.
Good idea. Thank you for writing and sharing!
I think you did a very nice video on t&t. Thanks.
I’ve used Danish oil for quite a while, but this method is WAY easier than how I’ve been doing it!
Great to hear! Happy Turning!
I've been using Tried and True for a while.It is the best food safe finish I have found(available in Canada).I even use it on a lot of items that don't need to be food safe.
I agree Bob! Happy Turning!
Just found your channel and subscribed. Good information.
Awesome, thank you! Welcome and Happy Turning!
Thank you Kent! Loved the video. What really makes this video to stand out is that it feeds you with just enough information to do the job. Your comments are detailed and yet right to the point. You made me buy this product :). Just one question: what happens if you repeat the application after buffing? Thank you again and happy turning to all!
Adding additional layers is okay. Many times I'll add Tried and True Danish oil, which is just the linseed as touch up coats later. But additional coats of T&T Original can be applied as well. Thanks and take care!
Nice Video. Im not a fan of steel wool; have you tried a scotchbrite pad? Im going to give this finish a try and compare to the mahony's walnut oil followed by mahony's utility wax which is a blend of his walnut oil with beeswax and carnuba wax. thanks again for the great video
Dan
Huh, always used mineral oil and bees wax. Never tried the linseed oil. Have to give it a try.
It might be worthwhile to point out that not all ‘linseed’ oil is food safe. Tried and True Original uses polymerized linseed oil which is safe as a finish for food contact, but "boiled" linseed oil is not due to additives and metallic dryers.
Good point, thanks for sharing! Happy Turning!
Thank you! I’m going to talk to a friend who makes honey and try make my own blend with macadamia oil 🇦🇺👍
Sounds great! Let us know how it turns out. Enjoy!
Thank you for a great video! When the T&T is 100% hardened, is the bowl durable against e.g. hot soups? My concern is hot liquids would dissolve the hardened T&T resulting in cracks, especially at those points where the end grain is situated. Thank you!
I am enjoying your videos. I am going to try making shellac. As soon as flakes are available and i can find denatured alcohol in Canada.
Thank you. They might call the alcohol "methylated spirits" in Canada. I believe that's what they call it in Europe as well. You can also use very high proof drinking alcohol.
You can also just use grain drinking alcohol (like Everclear).
No idea where to get Tried & True here in Europe, but beeswax & linseed oil is relatively easy to mix. Just melt the beeswax and warm (not heat) the linseed oil, both can be done au-bain-marie. Mix them at a roughly 1 wax to 4 oil ratio (in mass), stir, put in a jar, close the jar.
For a more glossy finish, also foodsafe, make a stick out of pure beeswax, hold it against your project on the lathe while it's turning, then rub it in with a cloth with the lathe still turning. At the same time that you feel the cloth get warm, you'll also see the gloss come up. It's from the wax melting and seeping into the wood. Pretty easy to buff up later as well.
Great video..very informative. I have a birch tray that has a hand painted design on it. it has 1 coat of matte water based varnish on it but I would like to have it food safe. Can I use this product over the current finish?
Insteadof using a piece of cloth for applying the oil-beeswax mix I use in that stage already a piece of steelwool. I've learned this from the famous Irish turner Glen Lucas.
Pieter Hermans why
Hey Kent, loving the videos and I'm half way through your course 'Wood bowl turning start to finish" I like the sound of the food safe finish but I'm unable to get Tried & True in the Uk, however I can get beeswax oil and boiled Linseed oil here, can I make it myself and if so what do you think the mix would? 50x50 or so?
Nice video with a clear explanation. How do you address the residue from the steel wool,small piece of wool left behind? Are you wiping it down with a clean cloth again? Thanks
Hello Karl and thanks for the comment. I've found little to no residue from the steel wool. But, yes, if you'd like you can also use a cloth to make a final pass.
I've had this same issue in the past. Using steel wool left a grey smear. I certainly could have been doing something wrong.
Hi, thank you for posting this. It was very educational. I’m thinking of buying some wooden bowls to replace all of my plastic bowls. I know I shouldn’t have bought plastic in the first place but anyway… I have a question if I were to eat hot soup out of one of these bowls, would the finish prevent the soup from absorbing into the bowl? In other words is it only recommended to eat things like maybe cold things out of wooden bowls or can one also, eat hot foods out of wooden bowls?
Kent, you hit it out of the park again with an excellent video. I’ve learned so much from you since delving into turning and I truly appreciate your efforts and your methodical teaching. If I may ask a few questions? Do you sign the piece first? And after this process do you re-chuck the bowls to burnish the bottoms? TIA
Thanks Al!👍 I sign the bottom and then hand touch up the finish and hand burnish the bottom. Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl Thanks again Kent!
Kent, a very informative video - thanks much for doing this! One question, any issues using steel wool (0000) on a bowl you are going to put food in? I was thinking of small pieces of metal getting embedded into the wooden bowl and that would not be desirable (although we all can use some iron in our blood). thanks again
That's a legitimate concern. I'll bring that up with the Tried and True guys and see what they say. Happy Turning!
Hi Kent. Thank you for the video. I was using your shellac method. Now confused,,,,, I have been adding shellac to everything I turn, Please advise... great work again. Halim from Sydney Aust
I use shellac to seal end grain if it's problematic and I use shellac as an undercoat for a gloss lacquer finish. When I use T&T Original, I use it all by itself. Sorry for any confusion. Happy Turning!
Being trained in the Loughboro College for woodworking, and Edward Barnsley was the advisor, we used thinned shellac as a primer then beeswax, but warned NOT to use steel wool, as the metal particles can get into the grain and produce rust, hence we used fine USED glass paper, The wood we used was mostly English Oak, and Sapele.
I enjoy your articles, but would like to know about the blocks you use to set the tools for the corerect angles.
Peter, that's good info. Thank you for sharing!
Great video. Two questions. First, you put the applicator back into the jar and close the jar. Is it safe to leave it there long term until you use it again? How long is ok? And two, can I use Norton Bear-Tex Nylon Hand Pads instead of the cloth applicator and the steel wool, using non-abrasive and then ultra-fine respectively? Thanks
Yes you can, and I recommend putting the applicator back in the jar. If the applicator is left out the finish will oxidize on the cloth and it will become hard as the finish cures. Happy Turning!
How many wash cycles could a wooden cutting board finished with this product withstand before needing to be re-applied? Secondly, what material do you reckon would be best for a cutting board that is primarily used for cleaving meat and bone? I would imagine that a meat cleaver would scar and mar most wooden and plastic cutting boards.
Good question! It will depend on how rough the board is used. A simple reapplication of a touch up finish, like Tried and True Danish Oil is all that is needed. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Nice video, just got some and about to use it. Any suggestions for a bowl that as resin accents? I assume it will not absorb the finish. Thanks!
I've applied this over epoxy insets and it works great. Happy Turning!
You mentioned that you can rejuvenate a piece that has been finished with the Original Finish by using just the Danish Oil however, according to Tried and True’s FAQ, once the Original Finish has been applied, the only thing that should be applied over it is another wax-based finish. The Danish Oil with just the linseed oil wouldn’t penetrate and cure on top of the finish that has the beeswax (that’s my take on what they’re saying, at any rate)
Hm? I'll check that out. Thanks for sharing. Happy Turning!
Great video. I'm building a large Maple counter-top [36" x 68"] that will sit on top of my granite counter-top. It's going to be used for bread & pizza making. Specifically, the dough will be turned out onto the hardwood counter-top for kneading, etc. After the counter-top is cut, glued, and sanded, I will be staining it with a walnut-type color stain; then will apply the Tried & True finish on top of the stained wood. Since this will be a food-prep surface, is there any potential hazard of the stain seeping through the T&T finish?
Good question. I would think it will be fine as long as the stain is allowed to dry and cure. Test on a scrap piece of material first. All the best to you!
Hi Kent like your content very much. What do you do if burnishing on the lathe is not an option? (Like spoons, forks or once turned green bowls after drying and they are all wonky)
Good question. Just rub the surface down with the same 0000 steel wool. Requires a bit more elbow grease. That's all. Happy Turning!
Great Tutorial I like everything about it but I don't agree with using steel wool, I think the dry woods shavings burnishing is much safer and does a nice finish, Steel wool is known to leave minute metal in the wood
That's an interesting point. Thanks for sharing.
Good information. Do you ever burnish on the lathe using wood shavings from the item you turned? Seems to work well for me.
Sometimes, I use wood shavings to smooth beads on the outside of bowls. Yes, shavings can work, but with Tried and True I like to even consistency of 0000 steel wool. Good question. Thanks.
Hi Kent, helpful video as they all seem to be. So I tried the tried and true finish but put it on a bowl that had some resin gaps filled. Not thinking, the finish did not stick or look the same on the resin parts. Is there a film finish I can put on top like Generals bowl finish or do I need to strip the bowl (sand or shear scrape)? I am worried the beeswax will not allow another finish to go on top? Thanks for any help.
Lacquer is a good solution. Check this out turnawoodbowl.com/spray-lacquer-illustrated-guide-equipment-system-set-up-technique/
I burnish with a handful of shavings.
Yes, that can work also. Not sure if it's a precise as 0000 steel wool, but it can work. Thanks for sharing.
Hi, I wonder if this finish would work for a wooden cups (kuksa) that will have a hot liquid in it? Such as coffee or tea. Thank you for amazing video.
Not sure. Might try. It will depend on the wood grain tightness too. Happy Turning!
👌👌👏
Wonderful and informative video. Thanks. One question- tried and true does not come in colors, blue, green, red, and I was wondering if a small amount of oil paint could be mixed with it? Would it still be food safe? thanks.
Anne, good question. I'm not sure about this. If you want to add color, perhaps an alcohol dye could work. I'd say experiment with small scrap wood and see what happens. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Hello Kent, Love your video. I am making a cutting board from an end grain cottonwood tree. How would I burnish the board? Would I do it with a sand paper since it's a flat surf and not on a spinner? I appreciate your advice. Thank you
Rub it with 0000 steel wool. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Looks like a great finishing option. Question - once you finish turn the bottom, do you do the same technique...1) light coat /dry 1hr and wipe...2) dry 24 hrs. and buff by hand?
Yes, indeed. Good question. Thank you, Tony and Happy Turning!
Great video thank you. I’m using Tried and True Varnish Oil, but now I would like to melt some beeswax into it. Do you know of a good recipe ratio?
Thanks for writing. No, I do not mix beeswax into my finishes. I'd recommend trying the Tried and True Original which already contains beeswax.
Look up DIY cutting board/block finish/oil and skip the ridiculous price of this stuff.There's numerous oil that can be used,along with other natural waxes than beeswax,and there is also different concoctions of them.
They'll all still add up to less than what you pay for a gallon of this crap.
If you want to mix in beeswax yet it all depends on what finish you're going for.
You can mix in about any ratio you want.Anything from like 12:1,9:1,3:1, and any other one you like.The more wax you put in the thicker it will bee,yep....experiment is the name of the game when finding the exact finish you want,not asking someone theirs.
Your bowls are beautiful I have a question for you what would you seal a wood bowl with so you can make a candle with it
Diana, I'm not sure exactly what you are asking.
Kent thank you for the video. It looks like you have a screen hanging behind you to limit some of the mess when turning. Is that something you made or something that you bought? If so, where?
It's home made and one of the 101 Tips, Tricks, and Secrets in this eBook > turnawoodbowl.com/product/101-wood-bowl-turning-tips-tricks-and-secrets-ebook/ Thanks for asking.
Hi Kent,
I'm a Senior (78) and about 10 months ago bought a lathe......"never" turned wood before (hence a new hobby). I've made a number of spindle items and have progressed to bowls. I should say my FIRST bowl.....which I just finished yesterday. I wanted this to be a Food-Safe finish.
I think I messed up !!
I applied clear coat of Danish Oil and days later I bought food-safe WATCO Butcher Block oil and finish. I waited a few days after the Danish oil and then applied the Butcher Block oil.
My Novice type Question is:
Is my bowl food safe since I applied it OVER the Danish Oil finish ?
If not, I'll turn another bowl from the same log.
(I wish I had come across your video BEFORE I did my so-called finishing....)
Thank You, Richard (West Boylston, MA)
I'm making my own countertops with untreated lumber. Would you suggest using this for those as well?
It depends on what you're looking for. You would need to periodically rejuvenate the surface in high traffic areas. But that would only take wiping on a bit of Danish Oil, which is just the linseed oil.
Looks like a great product. What would you tell a customer or relative regarding maintenance? Expecting them to buy a specific product, that's not readily available, might be unrealistic.
If it needs to be touched up, I recommend adding a coat or two of T&T Original Linseed oil. It's super simple. Other food grade oils can be used too for touch ups.
After watching this video a while ago, I started using T&T. It really like it as a finish. So, thank you for the video and product review. I think I may have burnished my latest bowl a little to much and warmed it up more than I should have. it ended up getting oil beads all over it once I let it sit. I will just start the finish process over on that one and see how it goes.
I do have a question that I am hoping you can help me out with. I recently made my own abrasive paste (just the standard mineral oil, bees wax and diatomaceous earth). I love how it turns out, so much easier than sanding all those final grits. BUT, can I still use T&T after it? since the abrasive paste has wax and oil in it, will the T&T still be able to absorb/bond with the bowl? Or, since they both only have beeswax is there no real benefit to using T&T after an abrasive paste?
Good question Erik. I'm not sure. I recommend making a small piece and experimenting. Happy Turning!
Will this finish seal a goblet for standing liquid without staining the wood?
Thanks for a great video. Will two to three coats of T&T Original be as durable as T&T varnish oil?
Shouldn't be necessary. Only 1 or 2 coats of original are all that's needed. The Varnish makes a "shell" or film and is a bit different than the original.
I'm make a beer mug hand carving one. I made my own beeswax polish as a mix of beeswax and walnut oil. Would that be suitable not just for sealing but also not affect the flavour of the beer? If not would this work or a better option?
Quick question. If I wanted to do a second or more coats, should I burnish between or just apply coats, 24 hours apart then burnish? Another very informative video. Thanks.
Definitely burnish each layer. You want to thinnest coat possible. If it builds up it will get gummy, not desirable.
@@TurnAWoodBowl Thanks for the reply and advice.
Loved finding this video and learn about your product. Can I burnish it without the lathe, just by hand?
Also can you give me a link to the mineral oil by tried and true to add shine once used for a while, thank you!
Glad this was helpful. Yes, you can hand burnish the surface. The other product is Tried and True Danish Oil and here's a link. amzn.to/3rYa2my All the best!
Thank you! Can I use paint before I apply your finish and would it still be food safe?
Beautiful! What kind of wood are your bowls? We are making some furniture for my little guy with pine and I'm trying to visualize how the finish will look.
These bowls are honey locust. Pine should look great. It will warm the color a bit but should look fantastic. Enjoy!
Thanks for the content, just subscribed. I noted that you are only apply one coat. So is it a waste to apply subsequent coats after burnishing the first application? thanks in advance!! (I just bought some of this as it came recommended to me from a fellow turner, and discovered your how-to video)
Thank you, Jay. I usually don't do multiple coast because the first coat looks great. You can add additional coats, just make sure they are thin and don't apply too much. Thick application will leave a gummy surface. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I used this for guitar too just bc.
I want this guitar so clean you could eat off of it!
I have pure beeswax bars AND linseed oil. Can I make my own Tried & true by melting the wax & adding the linseed oil together in a jar?
Hi, Kent. Great video. Are there any restrictions for stains that can be used first and then the Tried and True finish put on?
Not that I know of, just let them dry well first. Happy Turning!
T&T also makes stains, all organic and food safe, no dyes, chemicals or VOC's.
I watched this video and the one on the shellac/denatured alcohol finish. Are there some simple guidelines as to which finish you prefer for different applications?
Hm? I'm not too sure what you're asking. What do you mean by simple guidelines?
@@TurnAWoodBowl in what cases would you use this finish over the shellac, or the shellac over this finish?
Hi Kent, I have some wooden salad bowls made in Vermont that I've had for about 25 year. Unfortunately they've developed a musty smell and are really not pleasant to use. The bowls appear to have no finish on them. Any thoughts on how to remove the smell? Thank you!
I have some red oak strips left from stair treads. I thought about carving some spoons. Do I have to do anything special for the wood? Or is it just carve and treat it? It seems like it may rot over time???
This is the perfect finish for you. No need to do any other treatments. Give it a whirl, I think you'll like.
Good job my brother,send me a picture of oil that using to polish
it appears that you are using a ROCKLER lathe , if so are there any + highlights. I would appreciate any assistance you will part with and those bowls were absolutely splendid
Hello Ronald, no not a Rockler, it's a Robust. Here check it out turnawoodbowl.com/robust-sweet-16-wood-lathe-review/ Happy Turning!
Question do you have any particles of the steel wool get embedded into the wood and would that be a hazard?
Good question. I have not had that be an issue. If the wood is smooth and the finish is applied properly, it shouldn't be an issue. Happy Turning! Kent
Thanks for the great information. I am building a kitchen table from pine lumber and I stained it with coffee already. Can the Tried and True Original Finish be put down over the coffee stain? The coffee stain was just strongly brewed coffee, so it is water-based and the Tried and True Original Finish is oil based, so are they compatible? or will the Tried and True Original finish bead up and repel? Also, the Tried and True is water-resistant, but if say, red wine was spilled on the table, it would stain it? Right?
Hi Joy, honestly, I'd experiment with it. I want to say yes, it will work, but it's always a good idea to test it on a similar scrap of wood. Thanks for asking and all the best to you!
@@TurnAWoodBowl Thanks, I'll try it. Question 2: once the tried and true is cured for a week or so and dried, can a WATER based polyurethane be put over it to make it waterproof?
can you put hot soup in the bowls after it dry's
Not sure if there is a quick easy answer, but I have been using mylands cellulose sanding sealer, followed by OB shine juice. The next day, most of my beautiful shine is gone , presumably soaked into the wood. I even have tried using 2 or 3 coats of the sanding sealer, without much change. Any hints? Or should I switch to a different finish? The T&T Doesn't look like it would give the Kind of luster I'm after.
Thanks so much!
We have a chemist member in our turning group and he insists sanding sealer is no good for making a shiny finish because it contains silica or grit. If you want a shiny surface, try a base "sanding" coat of pure shellac (see my video) and then spray lacquer coats over that. If you want an oil-based finish to shine, it will need many coats to soak and fill the wood cells. Happy Turning!
Thank you Kent. I appreciate your response. 👍
Do you use this for natural edge bowls with the bark on? And how do you apply it to the bark?
No, I typically use just the Tried and Trie Danish, which is the linseed oil only. This can soak into the bark areas better.Great question.
When selling bowls w your finish, how does the finish hold up over time? Would a customer need to reapply something over time? Also how does this product store in hot and cool temperatures like in a garage in Texas?
It holds up great! It can dull over time and use, but a quick thin wipe of T&T Danish oil (linseed oil), or any other natural food-safe oil (like walnut, etc) quickly restores the bowl's luster.
It doesn’t need the same frequency of reapplication that mineral oil requires, as it is a polymerizing oil. Mineral oil just sits there on the wood, it never hardens. BLO, tung oil, and, to a degree, walnut oil, polymerize into an actual finish. This is why the rags can spontaneously combust if left out - the chemical reaction is exothermic and releases a lot of heat. While mineral oil burns, it doesn’t generate heat.
Eventually, yes, it should be recoated. It doesn’t last as long as something like poly, but as it gets older, it tends to mostly just lose luster, or eventually, color depth. Poly, of course, will flake and look crappy if it wears off.
You can apply mineral oil or wax over the top of it too, and sometimes customers will do that to bring out the color some (since it’s less likely they’ll have the T&T finish themselves).
So if I wanted to make a set of bowls for actual food use this would work or is there something that needs to seal to bowl better than just oil. I use a similar product on some old butcher block cutting boards I cook with but those are cleaned quite a bit differently than other things.
This is the product you want. Much better than just oil.
Turn A Wood Bowl thanks.
I just received my first quart of the T&T Original and it is like tooth paste. Your videos look as it is very liquid. Will it become more liquid with room temperature heat?
Thanks jack
It should. Keep it inside at room temp and you should see a big difference. Happy Turning!
I love the T&T finishes. I use mostly the Danish Oil, which is just an amber oil that looks almost the color of honey in a jar. One quart lasts forever for woodturners - you really don’t need much.
If yours is milky/semi-opaque, that’s probably the wax solidifying a bit. Put the jar or can in a warm water bath to warm it up a bit and stir it and it should become more clear. I’m not sure this matters for application. Obviously, don’t heat the finish over a flame or other heat source, but it’s safe to put it in a water bath. This is how we heat flammable liquids like alcohol in chem labs.
I realize this video is a bit old, but I’ll throw out a question: after your bowls have been used a while, are you able to reapply this finish to touch it up? Thanks!
Jeff, yes you can touch up any time with the same finish or Tried and True's Danish Oil. Happy Turning!
Would this finish stand up with alcohol contact? I'm looking to finish some shot glasses, but I haven't found a finish that wouldn't get stripped out.
First time user of this product. He did not discuss if it was better to have multiple coats. My understanding is that it should have 3 to 4.
One coat works very well. If you apply super thin coats and let them cure properly, yes you can do several coats. You can also touch up with just T&T Danish Oil which is the same minus the beeswax.
Hello, Do you ever use a friction polish? Can you explain why or why not? Thank you. Beth
Elizabeth,
Good question.
Most of the pieces I make are designed to show off the wood. Friction polish is for high gloss finishes and I've found works well for smaller items. Also, I like a simple, quick finishing process. I hope that helps a bit.
Happy Turning!
Kent
Hi,
You mentioned that you would put a link to the respirator below. I searched but couldn’t find the link. If you wouldn’t mind, could you share that information. Thanks!
Done! Here you go amzn.to/31CQn0K and here are the filters amzn.to/3mgJeuY
All finishes by U.S. Law are food safe after curing. What we mean to say is the finish is more easily re-applied if damaged or worn by time.
Thanks for sharing. Sounds accurate. Happy Turning!
Dave B Crossville TN Wood Bowl Turning
Thanks for entering! Happy Turning!
What if you had to do this to a huge table? How would your burnish it?
Yes, you can burnish it with the 0000 steel wool by hand and it will turn out great.
So I don’t need to use a sanding sealer as some vids say to?
No, you don't need a sanding sealer. Actually some people recommend against sanding sealers all together because some have grit added to them and cause more roughing of the surface. Keep it simple.
I am currently using the Tried and True Java stain for a lazy Susan. I’ve put on 3 coats and it’s still is not as dark as it looks like it should be. Any suggestions what I may be doing wrong?
I'm not familiar with their stains. I'd recommend emailing Tried and True. They are usually good about responding.
@@TurnAWoodBowl OK. Thank you I will