All good tips. Never hurts to go back to the basics now and then just to remind yourself. I just hooked up my wood lathe again after 3 years of not using it. My favorite tool in my shop for fun and creative relaxation.
Seeing you with that chainsaw angle grinder immediately made me think of Stumpy Nubs' mishap with one. Especially the way you used it on rough bark with your bare hands. Please be careful lol I love your videos would love to have many more to come.
I thought the same thing. I've had a close call will the chainsaw type and refuse to use them anymore. The "turboplane" style are MUCH safer and (imho) easier to control. Still great video though.
Thanks .. I got a shop Smith with a lot of extras just found out I had the right face plate to turn bowls with haven't been this excited for a long time thanks for the tips
I’ve watched many of your videos and learned a ton. Yesterday my wife expressed an interest in learning how to turn and this is one of the first videos I’m going to have her watch. Very helpful.
Great, Tom! You've come to the right place. Welcome and Happy Turning! Also, be sure to check out my website www.TurnAWoodBowl.com/ All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I just turned my first bowl out of cherry a few weeks ago and i used a face plate. It worked really well. I get why people get so hooked on turning. Its so much fun.
@@TurnAWoodBowl For sure and im learning from your videos so thank you for making them. You can usually tell when a person knows what they're talking about and you I think you know your stuff.
Thank you, John and welcome! Yes, woodturning is addictive and captivating. Enjoy the whole process and Remember; persistent, patient practice will yield the bowls you imagine creating!
Nice video, I am now a subscriber. In my own case I more often use a wood screw with my 4" jaws than a face place. The face plate that came with my 14" lathe has only four holes for screws. I got fed up of damaging screw heads, so I drilled out the holes to 5/16" and use 5/16" lag bolts instead of screws. They are solid as a rock and last forever. If the wood is punky I use a a larger round piece of 5/8" plywood between the face plate and the bowl blank. The face plate screws to the plywood and I have 6 or even 8 lag bolts through holes in the plywood and into the bowl blank.this spreads the load really well. Cheers Jim, Montana Wood Art.
I always use a faceplate due to having difficulty with worm screw due to having surgery on both hands& both shoulders- thanks for the video I always learn from your videos Bill M
Thanks for sharing your video. I only have a faceplate never really tried to turn a bowl on one, so I'll have a try and see how it turns out. Thanks again for sharing
I agree with Pastor Chuck, you communicate clearly and concisely. I'm brand new to bowl turning. Trying to learn to get my shopsmith to work. Still in process but closing in. Recommendations on chisels? Pastor Gary
Pastor Gary, you're at a great point in your turning journey. Please watch this video for advice on your question ruclips.net/video/IB7HSTwXfiQ/видео.html All the best to you and Happy Turning!
This is the second time I've seen a video recommending a flat surface for the face plate. I may have to try that, although I have used one on smaller blanks with no problem. I have had to shape more because of that unevenness. I'm still a novice, but really enjoying turning bowls.
Hey Mr Kent. Thanks for this posting on Face Plates. I stopped using face plates 10 years ago. Too many broken screws, and no design option once mounted. I only use a large Spur drive set into a drilled recess that matches my spur drive. Way too many people these days seem to be in love with face plates. Blessings and keep up the great tips. CD
@@billy19461 www.amazon.com/Woodtek-136889-Machinery-Accessories-Centers/dp/B0090OCCUI Or search for NOVA 2MTSPUR Simple Spur Center 2MT ... These are different items for the same job. TNX
Thanks 👍I'm glad you're in the Wood Bowl Turning Online eCourse TurnAWoodBowl.com/turn Let me know what you think of the faceplate in the course. All the best to you and I'll see you over there! Happy Turning!
Great video, I am familiar with most of the tips, but the one I hadn't considered was the fitting of an extra washer, Very pertinent to what I'm doing at the moment, just bought a 3 jaw chuck (Metal lathe chuck) for my old Record lathe, and will be machining a cheap Clarke tools faceplate to make a mounting plate for the chuck which has three M8 threaded holes on the back. I have a scroll chuck for the lathe, but there have been so many occasions when I have had to whip out the wood and use the metal lathe for some sequence.. Plan A was to weld a 3/4 16tpi nut onto a metal plate to make a back plate, but think that would wobble. Keep safe, and thanks for all the tips
I've watched a half dozen of your videos. You're a great communicator. And you have a real love for your subject. And you pack in a lot in a short time. No wasted time, no "Hum, I wonder what he meant by that." Keep up the good work. I share your love for turning, intermediate level I'd say. Pastor Chuck W, Pardeeville, WI
I literally am going to use a faceplate for the first time and your video popped up in my feed. Great information that helped me immensely. New subscriber now!
Hi 🙋♂️ I’m a beginner in wood turning, your explanation of everything you do is very easy to understand, I’m learning many things that I ignore, thanks a lot for all you do. Happy holidays
Another comment regarding the size of faceplate appropriate to the stock to be spinning hung in space: Generally larger and heavier wood pieces to turn require a proportionately larger face plate. What’s appropriate? Maybe you could address this? In particular, is there a guide or an easy formula to proper sizing? I feel like I’m being really critical of you but this is not my intent. You are fun to learn from and present a lot of good material with clear thought.
Hi Kent. Great video as usual. I do have a couple of items to remark on. First is the use of wood screws to hold the face plate. I have been told NOT to use them as the can break like the drywall screws, not as easily, but break the do. I use sheet metal screws as the are not as brittle and will bend some before they break. Secondly, using the carving disk on the angle grinder can be a very dangerous tool, I had a close call with one and they need to be used with extreme caution and the use of proper safety equipment. One wrong move and the grinder can be ripped out of your grip and who knows where it could go. Just wanted to get that out there. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the comment. Wood screws are fine. Perhaps someone was referring to drywall screws or cheaper thin screws? And, yes, please use caution with the angle grinding disk. Just make small nibbles until the material is removed.
Good morning Kent, I have really been enjoying your channel. I am very new to wood turning and I am in the process of getting everything I need to start. If I was going to purchase one face plate what size do you think would be best. To begin with I have plans to turn small bowls, maybe 6 to 8 inches, and spindle turning. I am interested in making traditional shaving brushes. So to start out I won't be tackling anything really large.
Once again, invaluable advice put across in a conversational and well communicated style. Your teaching/coaching skills are invaluable. Thank you, Kent for taking the time and making our turning lives somewhat smarter at every turn.
I like using faceplates especially on large bowls. You covered one point that is to me crucial to having a good mounted faceplate that is having a flat surface to mount it to. The screws although they turn the blank it's the pressure they put on every square inch of the faceplate that really does the work so the flatter and smoother the surface of the wood the better.
Turn A Wood Bowl very dangerous tool. To each their own but I would highly recommend wearing leather gloves if you’re going to use one. I’m not a fan of them personally. At least not the “chain saw blade” attachment. Enjoyed the tips about the faceplates though. Thanks for sharing.
Thank y for sharing. Well I bought an old lathe and chucks but the chucks are either to big or to small mm. Why do I need to use a face plate. Just learning huw.
Faceplates are for single sided support and turning, for projects like plates, bowls , bells and such. I was taught that always match your faceplate with the size of the finished project, such as a bowl blank that is 7 inches would require a face plate that is about 1/2 the diameter of the blank so the face plate would be about 4 inches in diameter! But this was about 40 years ago, and we also used a sacrificial blank between the faceplate and the project blank ! This way when we shaped the outside of the bowl, if we hit the sacrificial faceplate we didn’t damage tools or our selves! You can also use the tail stock to help support your project during initial rounding of the stock, and in the first stages of hollowing a bowl, how ever it will get in the way after a few deeper cuts! Smaller lathe, tells me you may need a #2 morse taper for your centers, and chucks! I don’t remember the thread of the face plates, and also not knowing your machine this is a guess, so other then length of the bed, tells you how long something can be placed between the live end and tailstock, height of center of live end to bed tells you max size of “inboard turning ( either faceplate or spindle/drum)” and some machines are capable of “outboard /off hand turning! Please let us know what you have!
I have a piece of wood mounted to my lathe right now with the faceplate on an uneven surface. I used 3-in screws. Should I remount it? I have already shaved the bottom of the bowl I just have to make a shoulder And a tenon.
An uneven surface is not a problem if it can be flattened. If the blank is wobbling, then that is an issue. Be sure the screws are about the same size as the faceplate holes and not thinner and NOT drywall screws. Use wood screws that extend about from the faceplate about 7 threads. Hope this helps. Happy Turning!
I would never use dry wall screws for any thing.that being said.rule of thumb the screw need to be 3 x the thickness of the face plate..I alway get good quality wood screws.love you videos
Would it be alright to use pocket hole screws on a faceplate? The manual that came with my new lathe said to only use screws with a non-tapered head on the faceplate and the pocket hole screws are non-tapered. They're long enough and have a course thread.
They might be better. Just try to use ones that are about the same size at the faceplate holes so the plate doesn't shift. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I wish I had watched some of these videos before setting out to use a lathe without any real training. In the video demonstrating the use of the turning tools, I think nI made every mistake that you highlighted. Now for some more training and yes I went to great lengths to get a suitable chuck so as to turn bowls - yep, I made the most elementary mistakes until I purchased some suitable bowl gouging tools.
Nice video. A couple scattered thoughts... I've found on especially hard woods that I need to drill "pilot holes" for the screws in the wood in order to seat them properly (deep enough) for my faceplate. Also, faceplates are like the batteries for your electric screwdriver: it's convenient to have more than one, even faceplates of the same size :)
When I need to level the wood for a faceplate, I use a large forstner bit in the drill press. Sometimes this requires overlapping "holes" to give a large enough surface.
I am totally understand what you say regarding drywall screws. Although i am wondering what force, torque you actually need to kill multiple srcews? Does a wood lathe even have this? Or its the diameter of the screw that might be a problem as well? Drywall screws are usually 3,5mm
Good question. 2 horse power and the leverage of a nasty bowl gouge catch on the outside of a large 14" bowl probably would have tremendous force and could break a series of cheap brittle drywall screws. It would make sense that it's a combination of the brittle metal and the narrow screw size. Either way, I don't want to find out first hand. LOL I stick to good quality, properly sized wood screws. All the best to you. Happy Turning!
I haven't used a faceplate much yet. I've been using a worm screw in my chuck, shaping the outside of the bowl with a live center providing additional holding on the bottom. I've made some smaller "birds mouth" bowls with this technique, but I'm thinking a small faceplate would have provided a more secure hold. I don't have a grinder, so may have to use a draw knife or chisel to flatten where the plate goes!
I just received Two Nova mounting rings. What do you think of these rings? I am watching everyone of your videos. My memory is blown. I was in the hospital for 5 weeks plus a few days. I turn sitting in my wheelchair. June 8 I bought my new Laguna 1216. I just got the custom stand complete yesterday. I have yet to turn my first bowl.
Timber, I have not turned with the rings, but they look like a good set up. Take you time and enjoy the process. Remember; persistent, patient practice will yield the bowls you imagine creating! All the best to you and Happy Turning! Kent
I have a small colection of stainless steel screws for my faceplate. I feel they are stronger than the typical wood screw. Yes the thickest screw that will fit the faceplate hole.
Thanks Kent, I have learned all of these in my short turning career, I use faceplates almost exclusively and trust them the most. In my 4+ months of turning, I have burned out a cheap mini lathe and purchased a Laguna midi and turned about 50 bowls, still making mistakes but rarely the same one twice. I am truly addicted
Well thought out. When leveling the bark area, I would continue to grind until I had a wood surface, because bark can detach and the cambium layer is "squishy". TapCon screws for concrete board are my "go to" because they are self drilling and won't break when backing out (Plus they have a square drive so they never strip and fit the diameter of my faceplate holes [most people miss that being important!]) Last "tip" would be not to use faceplates into end grain... because the screws won't hold.
I agree that screws into end grain wood do not hold nearly as well as in side grain, but you can get good and reliable results if you take a few precautions. First and foremost, drill a pilot hole to minimize the damage (crushing) of the wood as you drive in the screws. Your super strong drill/driver may be able to drive them in with ease without a pilot hole, but this misses the point. The point is to minimize the damage to the wood surrounding the screw. Another important consideration is not to over tighten the screws. Just snug is good. If you let your driver ram the screw down super tight, the chances are good that most of the wood fibers adjacent to the screw threads will be broken, and the holding power of the screw will be significantly degraded. Also, it doesn't hurt to use screws slightly longer than what you would use for side grain. And, as always, use tailstock support whenever possible for as long as possible.
@@clarencegreen3071 very early on in my turning life, an old timer told me about a trick he liked. He drilled holes in the side grain and stuck a dowel into it, so when the screw hit it, it was going into side grain. You need a flat surface on the end of the log first, but you can put an enormous piece on the lathe using this method.
@@santonucci Hey Stephen, Do I remember you from the chat on WoodCentral many years ago? Hope you're doing well. I'm still clawing away at this wood turning game. Happy New Year! -Doc Green
@@clarencegreen3071 been a long strange trip since then? Still spinning wood and carving. Happy new year. P.s. the dowel thing was a wally dickerman trick ;-)
Hi Kent ..Thanks for the great videos,keep them coming 👍...ive been using a worm screw and recently bought a face plate , i mount the face plate flush to the wood using the correct screws with no gap on the lathe ,i turn the bowl true and cut a recess for my jaws...when I flip the bowl to hollow the inside ,is it normal that the bowl has chatter and a slight wobble? This means that I have to true up the outside of the bowl again to get it spinning straight ...hope this made sense lol..
That is common. Be sure to take time making your tenon. See my Perfect Tenon video. Even then it's common for the outside to be a bit off when flipped around. Happy Turning!
Here's a suggestion. When you go to flip the bowl, keep the faceplate on the blank and use a cone center on the tailstock to engage the hole in the faceplate. This will center the blank on the chuck, and a little pressure applied via the tailstock will make certain the blank is fully seated on the chuck jaws. Remove the faceplate once the jaws are tightened, or leave it on the blank with the tailstock engaged while you do the heavy turning near the rim or outer portions of the bowl.
I have a old lathe with no Chuck. I have not found a chuck for my lathe of any replacement parts. So I do what I can. Everything I turn is with a faceplate. I use lots of sacrificial blocks. Mostly 2X4 scrap glued together.
Very informative video as always Kent! Is there a “rule of thumb” for the maximum size blank that can be attached to a faceplate of a given size? Such as, no larger than 9 inch diameter for a 3 inch faceplate!
There are several each with different benefits, but the Oneway Wolverine Sharpening System works very well. Check out my Recommended Equipment page turnawoodbowl.com/recommended-equipment/
Great video. I’m pretty new to turning and I have learned more from your videos than almost anyone else’s. Don’t change a thing and keep up the good work!
WHAT IS YOUR TAKE ON HOT GLUE? I AM USEING IT ON SEGMENT TURNED BOWLS WITH NO PROBLEM. yet. I SCREW A 1 1/2" PLYWOOD BLANK TO THE FACE PLATE THEN HOT GLUE THE BOWL BASE TO THAT.
Jeff, If you have it working, stick with it. I prefer mechanical fasteners, but that doesn't mean that is the only way to do it. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Regarding #3 Some lathes, like mine do not have an option to turn the spindle, there is no handle or wheel so we have to turn the stock. I've never had any problem doing this, i really do not have any other option.
I use hex head sheet metal screws which are harder/tougher than wood screws and not brittle like drywall screws. With the hex head, I never strip a slot or Phillips slot.
I just got my first wood lathe and I'm trying to learn as much as I can. Your videos are well-done and informative. Thank you and I'll look forward to learning from you as I go!
So, my faceplate is stuck, and I cannot remove it. I've already broken the knockout bar, bent several different steel rods, and broken two bits trying to remove it. I've got some lubricant in it now, I hope it'll loosen up. Any suggestions?
Sorry to hear that. Have you tried a large channel lock plier? In the future, use a nylon washer amzn.to/3n6Cfsk to help prevent the two surfaces from locking together. Happy Turning!
Hi Kent once again thanks for the great info. I heard and read from many experience Woodturners not to use nylon or plastic spacers between the faceplate/chuck and the headstock as this may cause slight vibration on your turning piece. It would be best to use metal spacer such as steel or aluminum. What are your thoughts?
Thanks for the comment. Interesting point about the spacers. I have not used metal spacers, but it would seem like they would hold any imperfection and transfer vibration more. The nylon spacers I use snug up and compress just a touch. I have not noticed any issues with them. Any spacer is better than an improperly seated faceplate. Use what works best for you. Thanks again!
Faceplates are great for keeping blanks on the lathe. They're a lousy alternative if you want to balance the grain or otherwise accentuate highlights of the wood. Once you attach the faceplate, you're pretty much committed to that orientation.
Your instructional technique is excellent with great attention to detail,I watched the one about the safe use turning tools on end grain and the dangers there of and although very precise I am not sure I understood as watching other woodturners somewhere doing exactly that with the gouge ,I am work offshore at the moment a complete beginner here though and just carrying out research for my hopeful end of working life further income as 9I have never touched a wood lathe metal yes many times in my military days,30 yrs ago but not wood
@@stuartjones7903 I understand what you're saying. I've learned turning from a passionate and persistent weekly group meeting of many great turners. They all complain about the dangerous things they see other turners doing on RUclips. I've worked hard to learn what works and why and I love sharing that. It has been with some reluctance that I make these videos here, fearing those guys are going to give me grief. LOL Well, I can tell you they have found my videos here and they are very complementary, and they would not hold back the truth. I'm not saying I know everything. Far from it, but I will guide you in the best direction I know for turning wood bowls. Welcome and Happy Turning. Oh, and if you're serious about turning bowls, spend some time on my website www.TurnAWoodBowl.com that's where I've been building wood bowl turning information for almost three years now. Enjoy!
Thanks. I am a new turner and the spacer issue just cured a chronic wobble problem.
Fantastic! Happy Turning!
I can't believe I did not even think of using an angle grinder to make a flat surface. Thanks again, Kent!
All good tips. Never hurts to go back to the basics now and then just to remind yourself.
I just hooked up my wood lathe again after 3 years of not using it. My favorite tool in my shop for fun and creative relaxation.
Thank you, Todd! Enjoy that lathe! Happy Turning!
Seeing you with that chainsaw angle grinder immediately made me think of Stumpy Nubs' mishap with one. Especially the way you used it on rough bark with your bare hands. Please be careful lol I love your videos would love to have many more to come.
Good call! Thanks for mentioning.
I thought the same thing. I've had a close call will the chainsaw type and refuse to use them anymore. The "turboplane" style are MUCH safer and (imho) easier to control. Still great video though.
Made me think of Stmpy Nubs also.
Agreed man those things are freaking dangerous if you aren't careful.
Absolutely, I can attest to how dangerous they are, luckily I still have my fingers.
Thanks .. I got a shop Smith with a lot of extras just found out I had the right face plate to turn bowls with haven't been this excited for a long time thanks for the tips
Glad I could help. Happy Turning!
I’ve watched many of your videos and learned a ton. Yesterday my wife expressed an interest in learning how to turn and this is one of the first videos I’m going to have her watch. Very helpful.
That’s fantastic! Thank you for writing and sharing! Have fun and Happy Turning!
Thanks I'm just starting to turn and can use all the help I can get to do it safely>
Great, Tom! You've come to the right place. Welcome and Happy Turning! Also, be sure to check out my website www.TurnAWoodBowl.com/ All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I just turned my first bowl out of cherry a few weeks ago and i used a face plate. It worked really well. I get why people get so hooked on turning. Its so much fun.
Excellent, you have seen enough to be hooked. Welcome to the club! ;)
@@TurnAWoodBowl For sure and im learning from your videos so thank you for making them. You can usually tell when a person knows what they're talking about and you I think you know your stuff.
Thank you so much! I just started turning at the beginning of the year (I'm hooked!) and your videos are really well-done and very helpful!
Thank you, John and welcome! Yes, woodturning is addictive and captivating. Enjoy the whole process and Remember; persistent, patient practice will yield the bowls you imagine creating!
Nice video, I am now a subscriber. In my own case I more often use a wood screw with my 4" jaws than a face place. The face plate that came with my 14" lathe has only four holes for screws. I got fed up of damaging screw heads, so I drilled out the holes to 5/16" and use 5/16" lag bolts instead of screws. They are solid as a rock and last forever. If the wood is punky I use a a larger round piece of 5/8" plywood between the face plate and the bowl blank. The face plate screws to the plywood and I have 6 or even 8 lag bolts through holes in the plywood and into the bowl blank.this spreads the load really well. Cheers Jim, Montana Wood Art.
Excellent. This sounds like a good technique! Thanks for subscribing!!!
Very helpful, all of us newbee turners appreciate your great teaching!
Thanks for watching, Ken! Happy Turning!
Thanks for these great tips.
Glad you like them! Thank you, and Happy Turning!
By the way, I have learned more from you than any other “instructor”. Thanks. Tex
By the way, you just made my DAY! Thank you!
Are there any videos on carbide tools?
I always use a faceplate due to having difficulty with worm screw due to having surgery on both hands& both shoulders- thanks for the video I always learn from your videos
Bill M
That's a good point. Thanks for sharing. Happy Turning!
Thanks Kent. Yes I use a face plate
Love your style of teaching. Used to turn a lot in my younger life and just getting back into it now that I am semi retired
Wonderful Happy Turning!
Thanks Kent
I did so many mistakes using face plat before watching this video.
Perfect guidelines by you 👍👍👍
Glad to hear it and glad to help! Happy Turning!
Thank you good info. I did not know.
Glad to help. Happy Turning!
Thanks for sharing your video. I only have a faceplate never really tried to turn a bowl on one, so I'll have a try and see how it turns out. Thanks again for sharing
You r my best best best an verr bet teacher love u sir an thank you.
So nice of you. Thank you, Saima. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I agree with Pastor Chuck, you communicate clearly and concisely. I'm brand new to bowl turning. Trying to learn to get my shopsmith to work. Still in process but closing in. Recommendations on chisels? Pastor Gary
Pastor Gary, you're at a great point in your turning journey. Please watch this video for advice on your question ruclips.net/video/IB7HSTwXfiQ/видео.html All the best to you and Happy Turning!
This is the second time I've seen a video recommending a flat surface for the face plate. I may have to try that, although I have used one on smaller blanks with no problem. I have had to shape more because of that unevenness. I'm still a novice, but really enjoying turning bowls.
Sounds good Joel. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Hey Mr Kent. Thanks for this posting on Face Plates. I stopped using face plates 10 years ago. Too many broken screws, and no design option once mounted. I only use a large Spur drive set into a drilled recess that matches my spur drive. Way too many people these days seem to be in love with face plates. Blessings and keep up the great tips. CD
SharpShooter47 Downs Where can I purchase a large drive spur?
@@billy19461 www.amazon.com/Woodtek-136889-Machinery-Accessories-Centers/dp/B0090OCCUI
Or search for NOVA 2MTSPUR Simple Spur Center 2MT ... These are different items for the same job. TNX
Check out the links here turnawoodbowl.com/recommended-equipment/recommended-lathe-accessories-2/
I am currently enrolled in your coarse Kent. Love it. Seeing this vid , will be looking forward to seeing your faceplate vid. Thanks.
Thanks 👍I'm glad you're in the Wood Bowl Turning Online eCourse TurnAWoodBowl.com/turn Let me know what you think of the faceplate in the course. All the best to you and I'll see you over there! Happy Turning!
3-1/8" forstner bit from Amazon was pretty cheap and works great in my cordless 1/2" drill for my 3" faceplate.
Great vids.
Thanks for the tip!
Excellent video! Very clear.
Great video, I am familiar with most of the tips, but the one I hadn't considered was the fitting of an extra washer, Very pertinent to what I'm doing at the moment, just bought a 3 jaw chuck (Metal lathe chuck) for my old Record lathe, and will be machining a cheap Clarke tools faceplate to make a mounting plate for the chuck which has three M8 threaded holes on the back. I have a scroll chuck for the lathe, but there have been so many occasions when I have had to whip out the wood and use the metal lathe for some sequence.. Plan A was to weld a 3/4 16tpi nut onto a metal plate to make a back plate, but think that would wobble. Keep safe, and thanks for all the tips
Thank you for writing and sharing, Pete! You too be safe and Happy Turning!
good information, well done
Glad it was helpful! Happy Turning!
Adorei as dicas obrigado tankl
você é muito bem-vindo! Obrigado por assistir e feliz viragem!
Learning allot from ur videos.
Glad to hear that. Thanks and Happy Turning!
Great tips!!!
Thank you, Mauricio
I enjoy your content. Your videos have been very helpful in getting my turning skills off the ground.
Great video, very useful, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it! Happy Turning!
I've watched a half dozen of your videos. You're a great communicator. And you have a real love for your subject. And you pack in a lot in a short time. No wasted time, no "Hum, I wonder what he meant by that." Keep up the good work. I share your love for turning, intermediate level I'd say. Pastor Chuck W, Pardeeville, WI
Wow, thank you! Much appreciated, Chuck! All the best to you! Happy Turning!
Just starting out very helpful
Glad to help David! Happy Turning!
I literally am going to use a faceplate for the first time and your video popped up in my feed. Great information that helped me immensely. New subscriber now!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi 🙋♂️ I’m a beginner in wood turning, your explanation of everything you do is very easy to understand, I’m learning many things that I ignore, thanks a lot for all you do. Happy holidays
Awesome, thank you! Happy Turning!
As always, very important and useful tip. Thanks for sharing this. 🙏🏼
Glad it was helpful! Happy Turning!
Another comment regarding the size of faceplate appropriate to the stock to be spinning hung in space: Generally larger and heavier wood pieces to turn require a proportionately larger face plate. What’s appropriate?
Maybe you could address this? In particular, is there a guide or an easy formula to proper sizing?
I feel like I’m being really critical of you but this is not my intent. You are fun to learn from and present a lot of good material with clear thought.
Steve, check this out turnawoodbowl.com/wood-lathe-faceplate-never-do-this-8-things/ Happy Turning!
Wow just discovered your channel and very much enjoyed what I've seen so far. Thanks so much!
My pleasure, John. Enjoy and All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Great information thanks again five star channel
Hi, I’m just looking into wood turning as a hobby, thanks you for your advice, great video, very professional. 👍
Glad to help, thank you! Happy Turning!
Thanks. Yes I used face plates.
Great!
Great job. You might also mention to have screws long enough to go thru the bark into solid wood. I use sheet metal screws.
Good point, but actually I prefer not leaving bark in the faceplate area at all. Thanks and Happy Turning!
Great video!
Hi Kent. Great video as usual. I do have a couple of items to remark on. First is the use of wood screws to hold the face plate. I have been told NOT to use them as the can break like the drywall screws, not as easily, but break the do. I use sheet metal screws as the are not as brittle and will bend some before they break. Secondly, using the carving disk on the angle grinder can be a very dangerous tool, I had a close call with one and they need to be used with extreme caution and the use of proper safety equipment. One wrong move and the grinder can be ripped out of your grip and who knows where it could go. Just wanted to get that out there. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the comment. Wood screws are fine. Perhaps someone was referring to drywall screws or cheaper thin screws? And, yes, please use caution with the angle grinding disk. Just make small nibbles until the material is removed.
I also just watched a video on how dangerous those carving disc are.
Thanks for the tips. I am just learning.
Good tips. thanks
No problem!
Great presentations
I like the ''things you don't do'' be it faceplates or ''maintenace'
I am new to this and i have learnt substantially.
Btw I am 67
Awesome and welcome aboard! Thank You and Happy Turning!
Thnx Kent great info for safe turning fun..... i just subscribed and will be watchin you.......hehe................................Woodturning Rulz!!!
Thanks for the sub, much appreciated. Happy Turning!
Good morning Kent, I have really been enjoying your channel. I am very new to wood turning and I am in the process of getting everything I need to start. If I was going to purchase one face plate what size do you think would be best. To begin with I have plans to turn small bowls, maybe 6 to 8 inches, and spindle turning. I am interested in making traditional shaving brushes. So to start out I won't be tackling anything really large.
Thanks and welcome to the party. A 3-4" faceplate will probably be just right for you. Happy Turning!
Once again, invaluable advice put across in a conversational and well communicated style. Your teaching/coaching skills are invaluable. Thank you, Kent for taking the time and making our turning lives somewhat smarter at every turn.
Wow, thank you for all your kind words. Much appreciated!
I like using faceplates especially on large bowls. You covered one point that is to me crucial to having a good mounted faceplate that is having a flat surface to mount it to. The screws although they turn the blank it's the pressure they put on every square inch of the faceplate that really does the work so the flatter and smoother the surface of the wood the better.
Good job as always! Your videos are always spot on, informative, clear, and helpful. Thank you 🙏
So nice of you. Thank you and Happy Turning!
Great hints ... A bit of safety though.. Careful to ensure the grinder is stopped before you change your attention
Thanks for the tip. Yes, the grinder is a dangerous tool
Turn A Wood Bowl very dangerous tool. To each their own but I would highly recommend wearing leather gloves if you’re going to use one. I’m not a fan of them personally. At least not the “chain saw blade” attachment. Enjoyed the tips about the faceplates though. Thanks for sharing.
Thank y for sharing. Well I bought an old lathe and chucks but the chucks are either to big or to small mm. Why do I need to use a face plate. Just learning huw.
Faceplates are for single sided support and turning, for projects like plates, bowls , bells and such. I was taught that always match your faceplate with the size of the finished project, such as a bowl blank that is 7 inches would require a face plate that is about 1/2 the diameter of the blank so the face plate would be about 4 inches in diameter! But this was about 40 years ago, and we also used a sacrificial blank between the faceplate and the project blank ! This way when we shaped the outside of the bowl, if we hit the sacrificial faceplate we didn’t damage tools or our selves!
You can also use the tail stock to help support your project during initial rounding of the stock, and in the first stages of hollowing a bowl, how ever it will get in the way after a few deeper cuts!
Smaller lathe, tells me you may need a #2 morse taper for your centers, and chucks! I don’t remember the thread of the face plates, and also not knowing your machine this is a guess, so other then length of the bed, tells you how long something can be placed between the live end and tailstock, height of center of live end to bed tells you max size of “inboard turning ( either faceplate or spindle/drum)” and some machines are capable of “outboard /off hand turning!
Please let us know what you have!
Just was wondering if you ever used joist hanger screews?
I have a piece of wood mounted to my lathe right now with the faceplate on an uneven surface.
I used 3-in screws.
Should I remount it?
I have already shaved the bottom of the bowl I just have to make a shoulder
And a tenon.
An uneven surface is not a problem if it can be flattened. If the blank is wobbling, then that is an issue. Be sure the screws are about the same size as the faceplate holes and not thinner and NOT drywall screws. Use wood screws that extend about from the faceplate about 7 threads. Hope this helps. Happy Turning!
I would never use dry wall screws for any thing.that being said.rule of thumb the screw need to be 3 x the thickness of the face plate..I alway get good quality wood screws.love you videos
Interesting. That could work. I like the 7 threads visible out of the faceplate rule of thumb. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl you just want to make sure you have it in there.ether way work.matt.ljke to see a video on segment turning
Would it be alright to use pocket hole screws on a faceplate?
The manual that came with my new lathe said to only use screws with a non-tapered head on the faceplate and the pocket hole screws are non-tapered. They're long enough and have a course thread.
They might be better. Just try to use ones that are about the same size at the faceplate holes so the plate doesn't shift. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I love your videos brother! I’ve used the faceplate a little bit and it helps a ton!
Great to hear! Thank you, brother!
I wish I had watched some of these videos before setting out to use a lathe without any real training.
In the video demonstrating the use of the turning tools, I think nI made every mistake that you highlighted.
Now for some more training and yes I went to great lengths to get a suitable chuck so as to turn bowls - yep, I made the most elementary mistakes until I purchased some suitable bowl gouging tools.
That's alright. We've all been there. Check this course out also turnawoodbowl.com/turn Happy Turning!
Nice video. A couple scattered thoughts... I've found on especially hard woods that I need to drill "pilot holes" for the screws in the wood in order to seat them properly (deep enough) for my faceplate. Also, faceplates are like the batteries for your electric screwdriver: it's convenient to have more than one, even faceplates of the same size :)
Good points! Thank you !
Green deck screws are the best I’ve used
Sounds good. I'll keep that in mind.
Hae I am Elijah Ways wood interior am using the face plate for the first time actually am looking for the save way to use it...
Hope this video helps. Happy Turning!
Great info!
NEW TURNER THANKS2
My pleasure! Welcome!
Great Tips Kent. i learned something. cheers!
Glad you enjoyed it. Happy Turning!
When I need to level the wood for a faceplate, I use a large forstner bit in the drill press. Sometimes this requires overlapping "holes" to give a large enough surface.
Yes, that's another great option. Thanks for sharing!
Great tips! Thanks Kent! Really enjoy your teaching style.
You're very welcome!
Kent, what is the size of the large white faceplate you show in your faceplate vids. Thank you
That's 6". Happy Turning!
I am totally understand what you say regarding drywall screws. Although i am wondering what force, torque you actually need to kill multiple srcews? Does a wood lathe even have this? Or its the diameter of the screw that might be a problem as well? Drywall screws are usually 3,5mm
Good question. 2 horse power and the leverage of a nasty bowl gouge catch on the outside of a large 14" bowl probably would have tremendous force and could break a series of cheap brittle drywall screws. It would make sense that it's a combination of the brittle metal and the narrow screw size. Either way, I don't want to find out first hand. LOL I stick to good quality, properly sized wood screws. All the best to you. Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl ;) ok then. I am convinced. Honestly, not in some "whatever" style. So how 'bout lag screws? 4.5mm dia?
Great video, Kent!
Love this! I used drywall screws. "Used". Not now! Thanks for the info!
Excellent! So glad to help!
I haven't used a faceplate much yet. I've been using a worm screw in my chuck, shaping the outside of the bowl with a live center providing additional holding on the bottom. I've made some smaller "birds mouth" bowls with this technique, but I'm thinking a small faceplate would have provided a more secure hold. I don't have a grinder, so may have to use a draw knife or chisel to flatten where the plate goes!
You can also use a forstner bit to flatten a spot for the faceplate. Happy Turning!
I use faceplates and I also use a screw chuck. Gteat tips!
Great, thanks for sharing!
I just received Two Nova mounting rings. What do you think of these rings? I am watching everyone of your videos. My memory is blown. I was in the hospital for 5 weeks plus a few days. I turn sitting in my wheelchair. June 8 I bought my new Laguna 1216. I just got the custom stand complete yesterday. I have yet to turn my first bowl.
Timber, I have not turned with the rings, but they look like a good set up.
Take you time and enjoy the process. Remember; persistent, patient practice will yield the bowls you imagine creating!
All the best to you and Happy Turning! Kent
I have a small colection of stainless steel screws for my faceplate. I feel they are stronger than the typical wood screw. Yes the thickest screw that will fit the faceplate hole.
Sounds great!
Thanks Kent, I have learned all of these in my short turning career, I use faceplates almost exclusively and trust them the most. In my 4+ months of turning, I have burned out a cheap mini lathe and purchased a Laguna midi and turned about 50 bowls, still making mistakes but rarely the same one twice. I am truly addicted
Excellent! That's the trick, learn from the mistakes. Well done!
So I noticed here you have several faceplates. How do you determine which is appropriate? Thank you again Kent!
Another very helpful, well explained and articulated video Kent! Don't know what i would do without you buddy !
Thanks Jason👍 I appreciate your support! Happy Turning!
Well thought out. When leveling the bark area, I would continue to grind until I had a wood surface, because bark can detach and the cambium layer is "squishy". TapCon screws for concrete board are my "go to" because they are self drilling and won't break when backing out (Plus they have a square drive so they never strip and fit the diameter of my faceplate holes [most people miss that being important!])
Last "tip" would be not to use faceplates into end grain... because the screws won't hold.
Good tips. Thanks and Happy Turning!
I agree that screws into end grain wood do not hold nearly as well as in side grain, but you can get good and reliable results if you take a few precautions. First and foremost, drill a pilot hole to minimize the damage (crushing) of the wood as you drive in the screws. Your super strong drill/driver may be able to drive them in with ease without a pilot hole, but this misses the point. The point is to minimize the damage to the wood surrounding the screw.
Another important consideration is not to over tighten the screws. Just snug is good. If you let your driver ram the screw down super tight, the chances are good that most of the wood fibers adjacent to the screw threads will be broken, and the holding power of the screw will be significantly degraded.
Also, it doesn't hurt to use screws slightly longer than what you would use for side grain. And, as always, use tailstock support whenever possible for as long as possible.
@@clarencegreen3071 very early on in my turning life, an old timer told me about a trick he liked. He drilled holes in the side grain and stuck a dowel into it, so when the screw hit it, it was going into side grain. You need a flat surface on the end of the log first, but you can put an enormous piece on the lathe using this method.
@@santonucci Hey Stephen, Do I remember you from the chat on WoodCentral many years ago? Hope you're doing well. I'm still clawing away at this wood turning game. Happy New Year! -Doc Green
@@clarencegreen3071 been a long strange trip since then? Still spinning wood and carving. Happy new year. P.s. the dowel thing was a wally dickerman trick ;-)
Hi Kent ..Thanks for the great videos,keep them coming 👍...ive been using a worm screw and recently bought a face plate , i mount the face plate flush to the wood using the correct screws with no gap on the lathe ,i turn the bowl true and cut a recess for my jaws...when I flip the bowl to hollow the inside ,is it normal that the bowl has chatter and a slight wobble? This means that I have to true up the outside of the bowl again to get it spinning straight ...hope this made sense lol..
That is common. Be sure to take time making your tenon. See my Perfect Tenon video. Even then it's common for the outside to be a bit off when flipped around. Happy Turning!
Here's a suggestion. When you go to flip the bowl, keep the faceplate on the blank and use a cone center on the tailstock to engage the hole in the faceplate. This will center the blank on the chuck, and a little pressure applied via the tailstock will make certain the blank is fully seated on the chuck jaws. Remove the faceplate once the jaws are tightened, or leave it on the blank with the tailstock engaged while you do the heavy turning near the rim or outer portions of the bowl.
I have a old lathe with no Chuck. I have not found a chuck for my lathe of any replacement parts. So I do what I can.
Everything I turn is with a faceplate. I use lots of sacrificial blocks. Mostly 2X4 scrap glued together.
That works! All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Very informative video as always Kent! Is there a “rule of thumb” for the maximum size blank that can be attached to a faceplate of a given size? Such as, no larger than 9 inch diameter for a 3 inch faceplate!
Good question. I address that in this article, check it out turnawoodbowl.com/wood-lathe-faceplate-never-do-this-8-things/
What's the best jig for sharpen.
There are several each with different benefits, but the Oneway Wolverine Sharpening System works very well. Check out my Recommended Equipment page turnawoodbowl.com/recommended-equipment/
Great video. I’m pretty new to turning and I have learned more from your videos than almost anyone else’s. Don’t change a thing and keep up the good work!
Awesome, thank you! Happy Turning!
subscribed, bell done
I was advised to use spax screws for face plates
OK, if they work you and are secure, fantastic!
WHAT IS YOUR TAKE ON HOT GLUE? I AM USEING IT ON SEGMENT TURNED BOWLS WITH NO PROBLEM. yet. I SCREW A 1 1/2" PLYWOOD BLANK TO THE FACE PLATE THEN HOT GLUE THE BOWL BASE TO THAT.
Jeff, If you have it working, stick with it. I prefer mechanical fasteners, but that doesn't mean that is the only way to do it. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Regarding #3 Some lathes, like mine do not have an option to turn the spindle, there is no handle or wheel so we have to turn the stock. I've never had any problem doing this, i really do not have any other option.
Interesting. Do what works, right? Happy Turning!
Good list, but I am really surprised #1 was not screw into the end grain.
I use hex head sheet metal screws which are harder/tougher than wood screws and not brittle like drywall screws. With the hex head, I never strip a slot or Phillips slot.
Sounds like a winner. ;)
I just got my first wood lathe and I'm trying to learn as much as I can. Your videos are well-done and informative. Thank you and I'll look forward to learning from you as I go!
You're welcome!
Roberta T, Stroudsburg, PA Tree to Bowl
Thank you for entering. Happy Turning!
OK, obviously you have to make sure you din't run into the screws cutting the inside, any tips on depth of cut?
So, my faceplate is stuck, and I cannot remove it. I've already broken the knockout bar, bent several different steel rods, and broken two bits trying to remove it. I've got some lubricant in it now, I hope it'll loosen up. Any suggestions?
Sorry to hear that. Have you tried a large channel lock plier? In the future, use a nylon washer amzn.to/3n6Cfsk to help prevent the two surfaces from locking together. Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl I will definitely try the washer, if I ever get it off. The channel locks and a pipe wrench are the next attempt. Thank you!
Hi Kent once again thanks for the great info. I heard and read from many experience Woodturners not to use nylon or plastic spacers between the faceplate/chuck and the headstock as this may cause slight vibration on your turning piece. It would be best to use metal spacer such as steel or aluminum. What are your thoughts?
Thanks for the comment. Interesting point about the spacers. I have not used metal spacers, but it would seem like they would hold any imperfection and transfer vibration more. The nylon spacers I use snug up and compress just a touch. I have not noticed any issues with them. Any spacer is better than an improperly seated faceplate. Use what works best for you. Thanks again!
Correct. Nylon spacers are soft and so they can flex, creating vibration. I have milled precision steel spacers that I use and there is no vibration.
Liked it
Thank you! Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl Thank you
Faceplates are great for keeping blanks on the lathe. They're a lousy alternative if you want to balance the grain or otherwise accentuate highlights of the wood. Once you attach the faceplate, you're pretty much committed to that orientation.
You're correct. Happy Turning!
Excellent instruction but wheres your PPE during grinding
Great point. Only during video production do I sometimes go without. Thanks for being safe and catching this!
Your instructional technique is excellent with great attention to detail,I watched the one about the safe use turning tools on end grain and the dangers there of and although very precise I am not sure I understood as watching other woodturners somewhere doing exactly that with the gouge ,I am work offshore at the moment a complete beginner here though and just carrying out research for my hopeful end of working life further income as 9I have never touched a wood lathe metal yes many times in my military days,30 yrs ago but not wood
@@stuartjones7903 I understand what you're saying. I've learned turning from a passionate and persistent weekly group meeting of many great turners. They all complain about the dangerous things they see other turners doing on RUclips. I've worked hard to learn what works and why and I love sharing that. It has been with some reluctance that I make these videos here, fearing those guys are going to give me grief. LOL Well, I can tell you they have found my videos here and they are very complementary, and they would not hold back the truth. I'm not saying I know everything. Far from it, but I will guide you in the best direction I know for turning wood bowls. Welcome and Happy Turning. Oh, and if you're serious about turning bowls, spend some time on my website www.TurnAWoodBowl.com that's where I've been building wood bowl turning information for almost three years now. Enjoy!
I also like to cut completely through the bark and into solid wood for faceplate registration.
It's always a good connection that way. Thanks!