Very useful comparisons. I sometimes use beeswax and (wood) gum turpentine, (a eucalyptus plant based thin oil, used as an artist’s paint thinner, easily available in Australia), to get mixture that flows better than beeswax by itself. The finish polishes well and can be repaired easily, useful for objects that might be knocked or bumped regularly such as lamp stands or drawers. A variation on this is beeswax and wood gum turpentine and boiled linseed oil. The resulting colour is not as dark as linseed oil by itself. I combine them in an electric wok using low heat, outdoors for safety and because the smell of them heating though pleasant can be very strong.
This is a super video. I use sanding sealer and wax almost all the time but, for figured wood, I recently discovered Danish Oil and use that. You can put a wax finish over oil but not oil over wax.
sehr informatives video! danke für´s teilen! ich hab mir erst vor ein paar wochen eine drechselbank gekauft und hab noch kein grossartige erfahrung damit - umso mehr hilft mir dein video weiter. :)
+Laura Kampf Dann wünsche ich Dir viel Spaß mit deiner Drechselbank. Auch wenn meine Drechselbank wohl die kleinste ist, die man finden kann, macht es doch mehr Spaß als ich gedacht hätte ;-)
I like this video. It’s interesting to see the different finish the side-by-side. Most of my turning his pens. I like to use CA glue with boiled linseed oil finish. It makes the grain pop and creates a very shiny and durable finish.
Thanks for making the careful experiment. I'm trying to find a serviceable finish for a cherry fortepiano, where our full bodied quasi-French polish padded shellac is too much shine for something originally from Augsburg, ca. 1780. Do you think carnauba wax (hard, so maybe it's durable) is a good choice? Thanks
+Paul Mcnulty Good qestion. I would go with shellac (french polish). If the shine is to much you can always use fine steel wool to give a mat finish to. You can also use shellac like a sanding sealer, sand it and apply paste wax on top.
That was very informative! Thank you very much, Fabian! I recently made a jewellery box for my wife's birthday and used a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil.
Hi Fabian, thanks for the demo on different finishes. If I want to go with a high gloss shine, I use tung oil mixed 50 50 with Naptha. It helps it dry much faster and I just put on several coats. Then buff it out. We have high humidity here in Hawaii and some oil finishes take forever to dry. I used to use carnuba wax, but it doesn't seem to hold up in our climate and it leaves finger prints. I do some woodcarving to and I like to use Danish oil on those. Merry Christmas, Dean
I use a gloss spar varnish for most work, it really pops the grain, gives serious depth, and is very durable. For items that require a food safe finish, it is a 50/50 walnut oi and beeswax mixture.
That a great reference piece. I often make myself reference pieces before I finish my projects (not turning project yet). All finishes turn out different on different woods. BLO on pine gets an ugly yellow with the time. BTW 1:4 beeswax and mineral oil makes a nice foodsafe finish! Greetings, Daniel.
Cool project, I was actually thinking I need to do this myself (not a video but just a reference). For pens I usually use CA/Plastic polish for other projects I use Danish Oil the majority of the time.
Hi Fabian. Thanks for the demo. I like tung oil sealer with carnauba wax (Beall buffing system). I use paste wax more and more and I will add Danish oil to my arsenal. Thanks for sharing. Marc
the finish I like to use on the lathe is a type of French polish with cheesecloth on the inside containing shellac and on the outside rag dipped in boiled linseed oil very hard very quick to apply
Very useful information, each has its pros and cons. As you have, I will try each out myself on different projects but I tend to like the glossy finishes that highlight the grain. Thanks for sharing , Thumbs up.
Very interesting Fabian, thank you for sharing, I use a variety of finishes depending on the wood and the grain, And what the piece is going to be used for, you gave an accurate description of the finishes you used, Best wishes Harry
I agree with you, the wax because its quick or Danish Oil if you have the time. The oils can be waxed. I often use CA on pens or melamine with a microcrystalline wax finish as its resistant to finger marks. On coloured bowls invariably lacquer but again it takes time or waxes. I tend to use abrasive waxes ( Yorkshire Grit) before waxes and on top of 6 -8 coats lacquer. Polyurethane, like wipe on poly gives a high gloss finish and is hard wearing. Thanks James
Would be interested to know ur prep work to the wood before applying the danish oil what u sanded upto ect if possible and maby the process u do to apply it. Do u only have it on to apply it or only on to remove excess ect? I carnt even get that good of a result after 6 layers of danish oil lol
Since Danish Oil is not a friction finish it's basically the same process as shown in my video on how to apply Danish Oil: ruclips.net/video/fUyfCtf-bhs/видео.html
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop yep seen that video was a good one. I was just confused in this one u only did 3 layers of danish oil? You seemed to get the shine quicker than in ur how to apply video were you did about 6?
HI Fabian thank you. The captain Eddy shine juice mixture is one of the best I have used ( please note you require white shellac ). I recently purchase some Hampshire Sheen from Martin Sabien Smith very good finish and durable.
Cool video, thanks. I use Shellac or Danish oil. I prefer the shellac, really you can apply three coats in one day. It does not take 24 hours to cure/dry. I find that in my climate it takes about 2-4 hours, maybe as much as 8 if it is a thick coat. After that the shellac is nice because you can apply thinned layers to take the project to whatever sheen you want, from matte to super-amazing, museum-quality, high gloss.
great comparison video, ive used many finishes myself although i tend to use yorkshire grit and Hampshire sheen products, as they are easy to apply and of course i am the retailer in Canada Maybe I should do a similar comparison video for this line of finishing waxes. Take Care Rob
I use olive oil, coconut oil or grapeseed oil. Grapeseed is my oil of choice, it offers great penetration & does not bleed out easily. I usually apply 5 coats of grapeseed, often heating the wood(depending on genus) to open the pores & allow deeper treatment. I have used several types of wax & epoxy & lacquer... still like oil the most.
I had some minwax one-step poly's and poly clear-coat laying around when i recently started turning, Im finding the proper oil and wax finishes are not as "flashy" The polys are strong too, After making some tool handles and clear coating the stain they are amazing, I understand not all projects look good in gloss but im wondering if im the only one.
Thanks Fabian, hard to pick which finish I like more, I think I'd have to do what you did with several types of wood just to give me a good comparison, cheer.
Great video! Very useful for me. I decided to try danish oil. I normally use homemade mixture frim linseed oil and beeswax. For small pieces i like to use CA glue finish as well.
I'd like to see someone do this with marine finishes then hang it outside some place that gets lots of weather and see how the finish holds up, I've seen this kind of testing done for gun lubes but not yacht varnish.
thanks that was very informative. everyday is a school day. I have used all these except shellack. great idea as deciding stick for projects and comparison on longevity of finishes.
I use a wipe on water based poly, it gives me a nice shine and can be applied almost like a friction polish.I also sometimes use a car wax, this can give a nice shine also
nice video, Fabian! how about repeating the same test with a lighter colour wood? do you think it would give similar results? thanks and regards from italy! :)
+Antonello De Angelis Might not be a bad idea ;-) I think there will be a difference. I think Boiled Linseed Oil and Shellac will look yellow on lighter coloured wood.
hi I use all of the finishes you used and I also use Renaissance Wax, for me they all have there uses and i tend to use the finish that i think will work best for the wood of the project
This was helpful for me to make determinations on a finish, Thanks
8 лет назад
ich mag kaltgepresstes leinöl da es sehr vielfältig ist, natürlich und auch für kinderspielzeug bzw küchenschneidebretter bedenkenlos einzusetzen ist... :)
Great video. Do you use cyanoacrylate at all? I made a teak/ maple flute and started with Friction polish (juice) with great results. A few days later, the teak's oil mixed and flattened the finish. Time to change finishes.
i useally just use mineral oil and bee's wax on my bowls. trying to figure out what else to use thanks fore your video it helps to figure out other stuff. my problem is my bowls are all done have no way to put back on the lathe . i turn my bowls wet and let dry like them to warp gives them character. and alot are natural edge
Really good video. Great selection of finishes and you covered all the big hitters. Thank you for posting this. Great work. Question. I am making a few bud vases. They will be around water obviously and I am concerned that they should be water proof (oil based, not wax based???). What do you think and what would you suggest based on your knowledge? I am working with mesquite wood.
I'm very new to woodworking and woodturning, but I'm slowly getting into the hobby. This video gave me a super idea; to make such a "rod" with different finishes, so I can see and compare what works well with different wood. So far it's gonna be easy, I only have fir and birch to work with =)
Hi - thank you for the visual comparison. I've used the following finishes: a. beeswax following Richard Raffan's suggestion in his book on boxes, looks great, smells wonderful and makes a nice story for selling products but I've found that if the wood gets any water on it, it leaves horrible marks (which I've managed to partially rub out using a hair dryer to heat the wax). I used this over a sealer on Padauk wood but that now gets a "fog" on it (easily rubbed off, but looks terrible until then) does anyone else have this experience? b. food safe mineral oil/ butcher block oil with some carnauba wax - for bowls because it is food safe but it dulls quickly and looks bad after a short while - it is not a "permanent" finish and requires frequent upkeep c. Pure Tung oil in varying degrees of concentration for bowls (because food safe), it does a so-so job of sealing end grain but it takes forever to dry in New Jersey where it gets pretty humid in summer d. Behlens salad bowl finish (a mixture including pure Tung oil) which dries to a nice gloss, is food safe but is a bit expensive e. Friction polish for pens and other small items - looks good but depending which formula used it tints the wood a bit f. CA glue finish for pens because it really enhances the wood and is clear and shiny but there is a learning curve to getting it right, it can get "fussy" (need to water sand to 13'000 grit...) and there's no fixing if there's a nick in the finish g. Shellac for bowls, boxes and tool handles because it handles humidity well. As mentioned in another comment, I don't find it too difficult to apply. I typically use a 2 lb cut that I then cut further with denatured alcohol to allow rapid drying so I can sand within 45 minutes. After the first two coats, I'll use a thin coat of undiluted shellac to give a hard finish and gloss. I will be trying to add different color dyes to my first coat of diluted shellac to help bring out the grain in some woods. Questions (if you are still reading this two years after your video...) * how well does the carnauba resist use? do you use it in bowls or just on spindle work? and how do you maintain it once the wood is off the lathe (it needs serious friction to apply) * why does your shellac yellow? mine does not - what are you adding to it? Have you tried adding dyes to any of your oil-based finishes? How does it work? Thanks again for your video, much appreciated. Alexandre Libellules.one
Thank you. Regarding the questions, I have no idea how well the wax resist use because the few thing I finished with carnauba wax were sitting on a shelf without beeing used. The pure carnauba wax looks great at first but after some time it starts to get white spots, especially on open grain wood. So I don't use it anymore. Shellac comes in various natural colors, from garnet to blond and everything inbetween. I usually use lemon or blond. Both have a honey tone but shellac does not yellow over time. Recently I experimented with earth pigments to make my own oil-stain and I must say I really like it. Although I did not use it on woodturning.
Hello Fabian. Great video. What finish would you recommend for marine plywood floor (pine)? It will be only used indoors. I like to make it look like a hardwood and not so shiny to avoid glare. Thanks
I can't tell you. I don't know whether you like a hard varnish or poly or If you prefer oil or wax. I don't think there is a finish that will make pine look like a hardwood.
This video was so useful thanks a lot. I'm new to turning but wax is my preference so far as it gives a nice smooth finish, but still got loads to experiment with!
+Fabian's Tiny Workshop i mixed the Cap Eddy Castelin Shine Juice recipy, but not very precisely. I dissolved shellac flakes in alcohol, diluted that and added boiled lindseed oil. Shake before use. RickTurns did an elaborate video series on friction polishes.
Thanks very good vid. I like to use tung oil. some times over sanding sealer. I have a question. I turned a beautiful bowl out of some kind of Hardwood from South America I don’t know what kind of wood it is. (I've had it sense 1970) It is a reddish color. But it turns very dark in time, almost like black walnut dark. Is there a finish I can put on it to stop it from turning dark ? Thanks Ernie.
Ernest, we have a wood like that here in Hawaii. It's called Milo. Starts out as a nice pink, but as it dries, it oxidizes and turns a dark brown. It's still nice but I haven't found any finish that will stop it.
Most varieties of wood react to sunlight. Some more than others. Cherry, for example is a light brown color when milled, but furniture exposed to sunlight will darken to that reddish color we all love so much. Mahogany is the the same. The only way to prevent that "discoloration" is by preventing exposure to UV light. There are some varnishes that have UV inhibitors that will slow that discoloration process, but none will stop it completely.
Schönes Video, Fabian.Ich bin auch noch am "spielen" nach einer schönen Oberflächen.Habe Schellack Porenfüller (Chestnut) und frictions Polish (Chestnut), Karnaubawachs Flüssig, Bienenwachs (800g).Bin schon am überlegen das Bienenwachs erwärmen und etwas Karnaubawachs mischen, das es wie eine Creme wird. Mal schauen was für ein Mischungsverhältnis ich dafür brauche.
Thank you for helping me to understand this confusing skill.
:)
Very useful comparisons. I sometimes use beeswax and (wood) gum turpentine, (a eucalyptus plant based thin oil, used as an artist’s paint thinner, easily available in Australia), to get mixture that flows better than beeswax by itself. The finish polishes well and can be repaired easily, useful for objects that might be knocked or bumped regularly such as lamp stands or drawers. A variation on this is beeswax and wood gum turpentine and boiled linseed oil. The resulting colour is not as dark as linseed oil by itself. I combine them in an electric wok using low heat, outdoors for safety and because the smell of them heating though pleasant can be very strong.
CA glue then a nice mix of Ivory Carnuba, pure Beeswax, and Lanolin Oil. ( I make it in a little croc pot ).
Try mixing your blo and shellac 👍
I recently started using Renaissance Wax, a microcrystyline wax) over shellac. fast and beautiful patina.
This is a super video. I use sanding sealer and wax almost all the time but, for figured wood, I recently discovered Danish Oil and use that. You can put a wax finish over oil but not oil over wax.
sehr informatives video! danke für´s teilen! ich hab mir erst vor ein paar wochen eine drechselbank gekauft und hab noch kein grossartige erfahrung damit - umso mehr hilft mir dein video weiter. :)
+Laura Kampf Dann wünsche ich Dir viel Spaß mit deiner Drechselbank. Auch wenn meine Drechselbank wohl die kleinste ist, die man finden kann, macht es doch mehr Spaß als ich gedacht hätte ;-)
I like this video. It’s interesting to see the different finish the side-by-side. Most of my turning his pens. I like to use CA glue with boiled linseed oil finish. It makes the grain pop and creates a very shiny and durable finish.
Briefly what is the "Sequence" you use in applying BLO and CA?
Great video, Fabian! My personal preference is the boiled linseed oil, simply because I love darker woods and a matte finish.
Very interesting
Thanks for making the careful experiment. I'm trying to find a serviceable finish for a cherry fortepiano, where our full bodied quasi-French polish padded shellac is too much shine for something originally from Augsburg, ca. 1780. Do you think carnauba wax (hard, so maybe it's durable) is a good choice? Thanks
+Paul Mcnulty Good qestion. I would go with shellac (french polish). If the shine is to much you can always use fine steel wool to give a mat finish to. You can also use shellac like a sanding sealer, sand it and apply paste wax on top.
This sounds quite safe, because there is a body in the finish, certainly on the Stein in Landesmuseum Stuttgart. I'll do it! Thanks very much
That was very informative! Thank you very much, Fabian! I recently made a jewellery box for my wife's birthday and used a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil.
2 coats of danish and 3 coats of CA glue which i buff with an automobile polish. Mirror shine :)
Hi Fabian, thanks for the demo on different finishes. If I want to go with a high gloss shine, I use tung oil mixed 50 50 with Naptha. It helps it dry much faster and I just put on several coats. Then buff it out. We have high humidity here in Hawaii and some oil finishes take forever to dry. I used to use carnuba wax, but it doesn't seem to hold up in our climate and it leaves finger prints. I do some woodcarving to and I like to use Danish oil on those. Merry Christmas, Dean
Thanks for watching and commenting!!
Merry Christmas,
Fabian
I use Walnut oil for food containers
THANK YOU for making this video!!! 👍🏻😎
I use a gloss spar varnish for most work, it really pops the grain, gives serious depth, and is very durable. For items that require a food safe finish, it is a 50/50 walnut oi and beeswax mixture.
Thanks for this video. I learned a few things.
I typically use bee's wax for tool handles and BLO or danish oil for things I want to look nice.
Got my answer, thank you
I agree with you. 👍🏼
That a great reference piece. I often make myself reference pieces before I finish my projects (not turning project yet). All finishes turn out different on different woods. BLO on pine gets an ugly yellow with the time. BTW 1:4 beeswax and mineral oil makes a nice foodsafe finish! Greetings, Daniel.
+Mighty Wood How true, BLO on pine looks ugly indeed ;-)
Take care,
Fabian
Fire is a great finisher
Cool project, I was actually thinking I need to do this myself (not a video but just a reference). For pens I usually use CA/Plastic polish for other projects I use Danish Oil the majority of the time.
Hi Fabian. Thanks for the demo. I like tung oil sealer with carnauba wax (Beall buffing system). I use paste wax more and more and I will add Danish oil to my arsenal. Thanks for sharing. Marc
the finish I like to use on the lathe is a type of French polish with cheesecloth on the inside containing shellac and on the outside rag dipped in boiled linseed oil very hard very quick to apply
Interesting! I have to give this a try!
Thanks, Fabian. Great Video. Mike
This makes me want to get a lathe. Nice job Fabian!
Very useful information, each has its pros and cons. As you have, I will try each out myself on different projects but I tend to like the glossy finishes that highlight the grain. Thanks for sharing , Thumbs up.
Good video!
Very interesting Fabian, thank you for sharing,
I use a variety of finishes depending on the wood and the grain,
And what the piece is going to be used for,
you gave an accurate description of the finishes you used,
Best wishes Harry
I agree with you, the wax because its quick or Danish Oil if you have the time. The oils can be waxed. I often use CA on pens or melamine with a microcrystalline wax finish as its resistant to finger marks. On coloured bowls invariably lacquer but again it takes time or waxes. I tend to use abrasive waxes ( Yorkshire Grit) before waxes and on top of 6 -8 coats lacquer. Polyurethane, like wipe on poly gives a high gloss finish and is hard wearing.
Thanks
James
Would be interested to know ur prep work to the wood before applying the danish oil what u sanded upto ect if possible and maby the process u do to apply it. Do u only have it on to apply it or only on to remove excess ect? I carnt even get that good of a result after 6 layers of danish oil lol
Since Danish Oil is not a friction finish it's basically the same process as shown in my video on how to apply Danish Oil: ruclips.net/video/fUyfCtf-bhs/видео.html
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop yep seen that video was a good one. I was just confused in this one u only did 3 layers of danish oil? You seemed to get the shine quicker than in ur how to apply video were you did about 6?
HI Fabian thank you. The captain Eddy shine juice mixture is one of the best I have used ( please note you require white shellac ). I recently purchase some Hampshire Sheen from Martin Sabien Smith very good finish and durable.
Cool video, thanks. I use Shellac or Danish oil. I prefer the shellac, really you can apply three coats in one day. It does not take 24 hours to cure/dry. I find that in my climate it takes about 2-4 hours, maybe as much as 8 if it is a thick coat. After that the shellac is nice because you can apply thinned layers to take the project to whatever sheen you want, from matte to super-amazing, museum-quality, high gloss.
I like the Danish Oil the best. I like the color and shine of the finished product. But I agree the wax is probably a good way to go because of time.
great comparison video, ive used many finishes myself although i tend to use yorkshire grit and Hampshire sheen products, as they are easy to apply and of course i am the retailer in Canada
Maybe I should do a similar comparison video for this line of finishing waxes.
Take Care
Rob
I never used yorkshire grit and hampshire sheen but I have heard many good things about it. Maybe I'll try it sometimes.
Take Care
Fabian
find a stockist near you
www.hampshiresheen.com/buy/
I've been eenie, meenie, miney, mo'ing the finish conundrum ... thanks for the video, I like the Danish and the Carnuba .. I'll start there.
I use olive oil, coconut oil or grapeseed oil. Grapeseed is my oil of choice, it offers great penetration & does not bleed out easily. I usually apply 5 coats of grapeseed, often heating the wood(depending on genus) to open the pores & allow deeper treatment. I have used several types of wax & epoxy & lacquer... still like oil the most.
I had some minwax one-step poly's and poly clear-coat laying around when i recently started turning, Im finding the proper oil and wax finishes are not as "flashy"
The polys are strong too, After making some tool handles and clear coating the stain they are amazing,
I understand not all projects look good in gloss but im wondering if im the only one.
Thanks Fabian, hard to pick which finish I like more, I think I'd have to do what you did with several types of wood just to give me a good comparison, cheer.
Great video! Very useful for me. I decided to try danish oil. I normally use homemade mixture frim linseed oil and beeswax. For small pieces i like to use CA glue finish as well.
I'd like to see someone do this with marine finishes then hang it outside some place that gets lots of weather and see how the finish holds up, I've seen this kind of testing done for gun lubes but not yacht varnish.
thanks that was very informative. everyday is a school day. I have used all these except shellack. great idea as deciding stick for projects and comparison on longevity of finishes.
I use a wipe on water based poly, it gives me a nice shine and can be applied almost like a friction polish.I also sometimes use a car wax, this can give a nice shine also
How about oil and then wax on top?
sure
nice video, Fabian! how about repeating the same test with a lighter colour wood? do you think it would give similar results? thanks and regards from italy! :)
+Antonello De Angelis Might not be a bad idea ;-) I think there will be a difference. I think Boiled Linseed Oil and Shellac will look yellow on lighter coloured wood.
hi I use all of the finishes you used and I also use Renaissance Wax, for me they all have there uses and i tend to use the finish that i think will work best for the wood of the project
Shellac is my favorit.. But it takes sooooo much time
pumice - sealer, french polish from there. Nice video.
Sehr informatives Video! Benutzt du Leinöl oder Leinölfirniss?
+Stephan Pöhnlein Danke, ich benutze Leinölfirnis, rohes Leinöl braucht ewig bis es verharzt.
This was helpful for me to make determinations on a finish, Thanks
ich mag kaltgepresstes leinöl da es sehr vielfältig ist, natürlich und auch für kinderspielzeug bzw küchenschneidebretter bedenkenlos einzusetzen ist... :)
Thank you. I also really like Shellawax Cream.
Great video. Do you use cyanoacrylate at all? I made a teak/ maple flute and started with Friction polish (juice) with great results. A few days later, the teak's oil mixed and flattened the finish. Time to change finishes.
+Stephen Sano Thanks! I don't use cyanoacrylat. The fumes are strongly irritating. Friction polish (Shine Juice) is next on my To-Do list.
i useally just use mineral oil and bee's wax on my bowls. trying to figure out what else to use thanks fore your video it helps to figure out other stuff. my problem is my bowls are all done have no way to put back on the lathe . i turn my bowls wet and let dry like them to warp gives them character. and alot are natural edge
thanks for watching and commenting!
Really good video. Great selection of finishes and you covered all the big hitters. Thank you for posting this. Great work.
Question. I am making a few bud vases. They will be around water obviously and I am concerned that they should be water proof (oil based, not wax based???). What do you think and what would you suggest based on your knowledge? I am working with mesquite wood.
Thank you! Oh maybe an oil finish like danish oil but it will not be completely waterproof.
Tx Fabian, good video again. Keep it up.
I'm very new to woodworking and woodturning, but I'm slowly getting into the hobby. This video gave me a super idea; to make such a "rod" with different finishes, so I can see and compare what works well with different wood. So far it's gonna be easy, I only have fir and birch to work with =)
:-)
Gran video. Muchas gracias por compartir
Hi - thank you for the visual comparison. I've used the following finishes:
a. beeswax following Richard Raffan's suggestion in his book on boxes, looks great, smells wonderful and makes a nice story for selling products but I've found that if the wood gets any water on it, it leaves horrible marks (which I've managed to partially rub out using a hair dryer to heat the wax). I used this over a sealer on Padauk wood but that now gets a "fog" on it (easily rubbed off, but looks terrible until then) does anyone else have this experience?
b. food safe mineral oil/ butcher block oil with some carnauba wax - for bowls because it is food safe but it dulls quickly and looks bad after a short while - it is not a "permanent" finish and requires frequent upkeep
c. Pure Tung oil in varying degrees of concentration for bowls (because food safe), it does a so-so job of sealing end grain but it takes forever to dry in New Jersey where it gets pretty humid in summer
d. Behlens salad bowl finish (a mixture including pure Tung oil) which dries to a nice gloss, is food safe but is a bit expensive
e. Friction polish for pens and other small items - looks good but depending which formula used it tints the wood a bit
f. CA glue finish for pens because it really enhances the wood and is clear and shiny but there is a learning curve to getting it right, it can get "fussy" (need to water sand to 13'000 grit...) and there's no fixing if there's a nick in the finish
g. Shellac for bowls, boxes and tool handles because it handles humidity well. As mentioned in another comment, I don't find it too difficult to apply. I typically use a 2 lb cut that I then cut further with denatured alcohol to allow rapid drying so I can sand within 45 minutes. After the first two coats, I'll use a thin coat of undiluted shellac to give a hard finish and gloss. I will be trying to add different color dyes to my first coat of diluted shellac to help bring out the grain in some woods.
Questions (if you are still reading this two years after your video...)
* how well does the carnauba resist use? do you use it in bowls or just on spindle work? and how do you maintain it once the wood is off the lathe (it needs serious friction to apply)
* why does your shellac yellow? mine does not - what are you adding to it? Have you tried adding dyes to any of your oil-based finishes? How does it work?
Thanks again for your video, much appreciated.
Alexandre
Libellules.one
Thank you. Regarding the questions, I have no idea how well the wax resist use because the few thing I finished with carnauba wax were sitting on a shelf without beeing used. The pure carnauba wax looks great at first but after some time it starts to get white spots, especially on open grain wood. So I don't use it anymore.
Shellac comes in various natural colors, from garnet to blond and everything inbetween. I usually use lemon or blond. Both have a honey tone but shellac does not yellow over time. Recently I experimented with earth pigments to make my own oil-stain and I must say I really like it. Although I did not use it on woodturning.
You might be interested to know that carnauba wax is used as the finish on tobacco pipes. It is applied using a very soft buffing wheel.
+caskwith That's interesting, I didn't know that!
Hello Fabian. Great video.
What finish would you recommend for marine plywood floor (pine)? It will be only used indoors. I like to make it look like a hardwood and not so shiny to avoid glare. Thanks
I can't tell you. I don't know whether you like a hard varnish or poly or If you prefer oil or wax. I don't think there is a finish that will make pine look like a hardwood.
Hi Fabian ich benutze Nuss öl dar es nicht teuer ist und sehr gut geignet ist cooles Video👍👍👍
This video was so useful thanks a lot. I'm new to turning but wax is my preference so far as it gives a nice smooth finish, but still got loads to experiment with!
Appreciate you checking it out!
thanks for your test wood bro
Thanks for this comparison!
You didn't do shine juice, which takes no curing time.
+Josef Roesler Thanks, I'll give it a try!
takes more time for drying but poly is my way to finish for best looks.
+leo saluto Thanks, I have to give it a try!
Do you ever us wipe on poly? I think it has a learning curve as well.
+Gary McCoy I have no experience with wipeon poly, but I need to give it a try sometime.
Now I see how Rock Stars get stickers on their guitar cases! lol
+Will Ford lol ;-)
Simple and informative video,thanks
:)
I use walnut oil a lot. Recently i started experimenting with friction polish that i mixed myself.
+Willem Kossen What kind of friction polish do you use, can you share the recipe?
+Fabian's Tiny Workshop i mixed the Cap Eddy Castelin Shine Juice recipy, but not very precisely. I dissolved shellac flakes in alcohol, diluted that and added boiled lindseed oil. Shake before use. RickTurns did an elaborate video series on friction polishes.
+Willem Kossen Thanks, I'm going to watch RickTurns video!
Take care,
Fabian
Thanks very good vid. I like to use tung oil. some times over sanding sealer. I have a question. I turned a beautiful bowl out of some kind of Hardwood from South America I don’t know what kind of wood it is. (I've had it sense 1970) It is a reddish color. But it turns very dark in time, almost like black walnut dark. Is there a finish I can put on it to stop it from turning dark ? Thanks Ernie.
Hm, I don't know.
Ernest, we have a wood like that here in Hawaii. It's called Milo. Starts out as a nice pink, but as it dries, it oxidizes and turns a dark brown. It's still nice but I haven't found any finish that will stop it.
Most varieties of wood react to sunlight. Some more than others. Cherry, for example is a light brown color when milled, but furniture exposed to sunlight will darken to that reddish color we all love so much. Mahogany is the the same. The only way to prevent that "discoloration" is by preventing exposure to UV light. There are some varnishes that have UV inhibitors that will slow that discoloration process, but none will stop it completely.
Schönes Video, Fabian.Ich bin auch noch am "spielen" nach einer schönen Oberflächen.Habe Schellack Porenfüller (Chestnut) und frictions Polish (Chestnut), Karnaubawachs Flüssig, Bienenwachs (800g).Bin schon am überlegen das Bienenwachs erwärmen und etwas Karnaubawachs mischen, das es wie eine Creme wird. Mal schauen was für ein Mischungsverhältnis ich dafür brauche.
+Günter Schöne Klingt interessant, viele Erfolg beim Wax-Mischen, kannst ja berichten ob's klappt ;-)
Okay, werde Bericht erstatten. :-)
Thank you very much.
:-)
☺👍
Was ist das für ein Holz??
+Lukas Storch Walnuss
nice job ^^
+Stefano Piraino Thanks :)
I would love to know what kind of wood you are using in your experiments. Thanks for the great illustrations!!
It's walnut.
I use a poly finish, mostly because it comes in both oil and water base. It also leaves a really nice shine.
Thanks for sharing
Roy