How to - CALIFORNIA PATCH vs TEXAS DRYWALL PATCH
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 21 апр 2021
- You can see two different style drywall repairs in this video, the California style patch completed without power tools and the Texas style drywall patch that uses power tools. What is your preferred method?
Хобби
I did commercial drywall for 15 years. I have never heard either one of these patches called this lol. If you want a flat wall and a patch that is strong, do not use the "Cali patch" on something that large. I would never use it on something bigger than a 6"x6" hole. Also try and limit the size of either patch to as small as possible. No since in removing good sheetrock. I'm sure the size of these in the videos was for demonstration. The "Texas patch" can be any size, just make sure you have enough backing. I would also add that if you have a patch next to a stud like that then attach your backing board to the stud on that side, not the drywall. It also help to run the backers diagonally to the corners. This helps stabilize the patch from rocking and creating a Crack later. Great instructions otherwise.
Thanks for watching Jeff. I also believe
I'm with you Jeff, never heard either, but I would never consider a Cali patch for any size.
I also use diagonal batons on larger patches to secure corners.
How the fuck you going to connect backing boards to the stud...
If you're near a stud, put the patch over the stud.
I did new home and remodel my whole life since I could lift a 10 box… this is some homeowner repair or slum lord repair right here! Hahahaha def not the right way!
And that plaster trowel killing me!
Keeping grandpa's drill alive and in use is admirable. ;)
Old and reliable. Thanks for watching
I was stumped by his statement that power was needed. Drills don't need power.
@@neilabernath5862 right you are Neil, I still have some of the older hand crank models but figured all the young bucks would not be interested
@@neilabernath5862 drills don't need power? How do they operate without any power?
I found your channel again as you said after my comment on your other video. The cal patch was taught to me 40 years ago by a man named West Sprol in va beach. Great old hanger finisher that cut back to just small jobs and a patch man. Tuff as nails the Texas version I’ve picked along the way. Both work well. I enjoyed watching the work Im a well retired old carpenter superintendent that still does his own work. Thanks from my hill in. Sc
Good stuff
Your technique is different, but nice video. I’ve used both systems to patch, never knew the strapped patch was called a Texas patch. Both systems work equally well. My rule of thumb, if the hole is smaller than 6 inches, California patch all the way. Larger than 6 inches back strap it, Texas patch. Couple things I would have done differently, one I would have used 20 minute hot mud to set both patches. First, it’s stronger. Second, within an hour you can apply you top coat. Also, to help adhesion add some Elmore’s Glue to the plaster about a table spoon to a pound or so of mud. Gives you better adherence to the painted surfaces. I’m also not a fan of sanding, so I wouldn’t have left all those high spots and ridges on the surface. Depending on how well the patch set the next coat could the top coat, but I find these type of patches are a three step finish. When it comes to sanding, I always put a light close to wall from the direction the light is most likely to shine in on the wall. That way as you sand you can see all the high and low spots, the shades cast by the light will help you stop over sanding. The second coat. For the second coat I tend to use hot mud, time is a big factor, plus hot mud sets and cures so much faster. Before you try and apply the finish coat allow at least 12 hours, 24 hours would be better for the base coats to completely cure and dry, then apply your finish coat. For the finish coat I’ll use finishing plaster just because it’s easier to get a flaw free finish and it excepts paint better. Couple of criticism issues I have. I would have liked to have seen you repair the holes in the insulation and vapor barrier, I know this was a video for plaster repair, but fixing issues in the insulation is part of the repair. And anytime your painting over fresh plaster, always prime it first to avoid the spot from the patch. If you don’t that patch will scream at you after the paint has fully dried because the texture will be different. All and all, good video.
Thanks for watching
It's not called the California or Texan way, he's just a Conservative Texan trying to show he's smart-a$$, hopefully, he's not freezing in the winter while Rafael is vacationing in Cancun again...
@@mg5454 😆
Dude, make your own video. LOL
@@mg5454 Wow, you got trolled and triggered all at the same time then showed your hate because of a drywall video. Not your best moment. lol
I've drywalled off & on for thirty years and have always used what you call the "Texas" patch. I came up with the idea myself as it's not rocket science. In a pinch, no power needed: cordless screw-gun or even a screw driver will get the job done. Use thin strips of plywood instead as they're less likely to split like thin strips of wood. Someone showed me the "California" patch a couple years ago: fussy, and no doubt not as strong. Cheers from Canada.
I've always used the "Texas" patch method, except the only screw I use is to use as a grip to maneuver the scrap wood into place. I adhere it to the back of the wall with liquid nails and pull the screw to push the wood to the back of the wall. It sets rock hard, and I simply take out the screw when the glue is set and then apply the patch. There's less damage to fill or repair. It is very sturdy and over the decades, I've never had a problem with this method.
@@Tekagi I've found that pulling the screw to bond the wood to the back of the wall is only needed for a about 2 minutes, and after 10-15 minutes or so, the bond is more than strong enough to patch. It may take even less time, but I wouldn't risk it, and it usually takes me that long to prepare prepare my other stuff anyway.
I actually do a combination for both. I do the cali style for the paper to exsisting drywall backing. And I use the Texas style with a piece of wood behind the dry wall so it doesn't move, that way I get both mechanical bonds of the paper/screw into the drywall...etc.. Just in case one were to screw something in my newly repaired patch job... I find that then there is no way for the edges to move and possibly crack.
I like it, especially where the door knobs bust a hole in the wall
I've done the same and it turned out really well especially for being my first fix and knowing zip about drywall repair.
I understand both are working well and was thinking why not combining the two styles for a better result while watching the video. It's ready for next person to make heavy load over the same place. By the way, I think one can use Cal style when the patch edges are shorter than half feet while Texas style is a must for edges longer than one feet.
Over achiever lol
Looks like he also used a liberal amount of mud on the Texas patch , so must be a CA. Liberal .
I just used your Texas Drywall Patch method and it worked great; love how you show step by step of the process and hope you keep posting more DIY videos!
Awesome, thank you!
There is an easier way to do the California patch. Make the patch first with the flanges, then trace it to the wall and cut the wall to fit your patch. I also mark the patch to index it so it goes into the same position it was traced to the wall.
I have done some California patches with the wood backer to keep it flat to the wall. I don't see the need to use paper tape on a small patch like this. Paper tape or mesh tape is really only necessary on an actual joint between large panels.
When I do the strapped patch (Texas patch), I mud the wall and patch the same way you did the California patch and mud only the joint, skim it and let it dry. I follow it up with a top coat with a wide drywall knife.
It's been a long time since I have seen anyone use a corded drill to do work like this. The new cordless drills do everything better, they have rendered the corded drills obsolete.
I agree that the California patch is the quickest way to go, If you have anything less than approximately twelve inch square areas. If it's larger I will reinforce the area with backing.I also agree with you that it's easier to make the pacth with the flaps, put it on the wall and then trace and cut. The drywall paper is thinner than paper tape and hides more easily. I use Rapidset mud and can repair and paint damages in one day.
Never understood why the California patch is not used with a backer when additional strength is needed instead of a patch with backer and tape.
I find the patch with flaps easier to smooth in since you can also shave a bit of tape on existing drywall as well
Great side by side comparison. You are a master
Wow, thanks!
Great job!!! I like the way you were prepared in your presentation.
You are too kind, thanks for watching
I've never heard the "California" name for that first patch method but I've only worked in the Pacific Northwest and that kind of patch was a "monkey patch." I also had to smile to see you using a corded drill with a keyed chuck, I have an old Skil that I've been using for decades. Good video, thanks.
I teched up many years ago and got the cordless tools, but they no longer hold a charge, good ole reliable corded tool is may fav
It looks like he also used a liberal amount of mud on the Texas patch .I wonder what that means? Using a phone to check you work, that's a new one.
Paint is a perfect match but it looks better than the old ,works for me.
Lol, was not intended. Thanks for watching
Great video. Carefully and patiently explained. Thank you for your expertise!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent work
Thanks for watching
fibafuse seems to work really well with hot mud because you get full embeddedment through the tape not just under it.
Nicely done! Great job explaining the WHY instead of just showing or telling what to do. You're the Bob Ross of drywall. 😆
Thank you
Excellent video! Thank you!
Thanks for watching Jim!
Thanks so much for the explanation.
Makes total sense from here in Seattle.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the excellent detail.
Glad it was helpful!
Good to see you also use what you're calling a 'concrete finishing tool' ... over here in the UK I use the exact same wooden handeled one but it's called a plasterers trowel... nice and stiff and very comfortable and a must for anything but finishing.
he hasn't a clue about plaster, hence the ignorance. He probably bought a finishing trowel thinking its the same thing.
Good on 'yer Doug! A nice, clear video with good explanations. It'll serve me well next time I'm called on to tidy-up some probem at my daughter's house.
Thanks 👍
I lived in CA and yes used that patch but NEVER that big. Like outlet-sized holes. Never hear of a stick patch called Texas, happen to live in Texas now. The only advantage of mesh is on less coat if hot mudding. Using 5 minute can have that paintable in half hour.
Bruce, here is a TX patch painted in one hour using 5 minute ruclips.net/video/iNsC3BYRqhs/видео.html
I’m a novice but I like to drill strips in for suport, then California patch it. Works well so far! Thank You for the video. Sincerely Yours, A RUclips University student
That works! Thanks for watching
Doug, the hole on the left was from the wife missing the husband in a round house and the hole to the right was the husband's swing missing the wife. Easy fix, POSTERS LOL
yes, I think a similar experience happened here and was covered with posters. Cheap fix
TEXAS PATCH ALL THE WAY-
Nice work and thanks for sharing the demo. Let's get cooking.
Any time! Lol, Lets get fixing
Nicely done. I was getting ready to tell people to put the mud all the way around the piece too, but you had it covered. So to speak.
Thanks 👍
Nice video. I also found out my Drywall style is a combo of BOTH styles .... i ALWAYS used the patch& blend , but wood strips inside
I thought I invented the Texas Patch as a more structural version of the California Patch I grew up on. I like to use strips of osb for backing, because it's the least likely wood to split.
Hey Mortimer, I just put a name on the patch with backing because I got a kick out of hearing the state of California has its own drywall patch, lol
@@douglashill7059 People in or from the State of California have ego complexes, so they title things as though Californians are innovators. I lived in Southern Calif for the first 27 years of my life. and through both personal experience as a resident, and now as an outside observer for 35 years, I see how Californians think the world revolves around California. An example is a few years ago I was in a restaurant and a couple of middle aged women proudly and loudly announced "We're from California". obviously thinking that the surrounding local patrons would be impressed. lol... little did they know it not only DIDN'T impress anyone, to the contrary, it caused a lot of rolling eyes and head shakes..
@@warrendelay I always wondered that. I lived in California just a little bit when I was young but you hear a lot of terms like California garage door, California, basements, California, closets, California paints. It does have a certain ring to it, the word California. Even when I was driving in the city the other day I saw California Street.
@@theloneviking9145 Don't forget the California King mattress. Excessively long to support the large egos in Beverly Hills :)
@@troybelding3816 good call I forgot that one and a good explanation of its origins!
While I've done my share of "blowout" patches, I've never understood why anyone would do several in the same area instead of just cutting out the whole area and fix it in one piece and make the taping so much easier, not to mention having actual mechanical connection for the drywall.
You do realize he is doing two different types for demonstrating
The reason why you do not do that is it is not a natural seam. It is a fixed seam, An your having to build compound up to cover it, and the more compound the more of a unatrual hump you have to feather in to get it to blend. The larger the repair the large of a area you must feather in, and forget it if you have natural light from say a window facing towards the sun.. It will show every time. I would not patch any patches the way this guy does, He is not wrong, it can be done this way, BUT IT IS NOT THE BEST WAY, Make a hotpatch, The hotpatch you cut out only the area of damage and square it off, place 2 boards behind the hole in the wall, screw into the wall into the wood strips, then screw into the hotpatch, the hotpatch is made by taking a hole lets say that is 3x3 inches so you take a 5x5 area of sheetrock, and then trace the hole almost exactly to fit perfect leaving the front of the paper on the patch of the drywall sheet, and use it for taping. I know he shows something close to this, but he made it way to large and he is not a finisher.. But a guy who tries to do it all, nothing wrong with that, but if you want a drywall A1 finisher, you go to the guy who does this every day for 30 yrs.. He doesnt even hang but on rare side jobs, all he does is finish. Which Is what i did for years before I opened another type of business and got out of construction.
My home has the mid evolution of wallboard (different and less smooth than drywall) covered with coarse and then finish plaster. Because of that the thickness varies. When i ran electric in the wall I needed access down low and used a 4" hole saw. I kept the cutout piece and used the strap method to put the piece back in the same orientation to match up perfectly.
Thanks for sharing
yeah thats actually backing board for plaster, commonly known as lath.
hey kool.. saw your vid today, and thought it was pretty kewl. i lived in calif most my life and started construction in 1971, always have done the texas style of drywall repair, and today was first time i saw the "cailfornia" way of doing it,, pretty kool but i'll stick with Texas....p.s. i try to incorperate a stud as one of my boards when possible. thanks!
Always use a stud for your drywall patch, this was for video purpose only
@@douglashill7059 yes, and enjoyed it very much, i even learned something!!
Yeah - he took the time to point out the wall stud but then never used it for stability. But hey he did a kick ass job!
Wish I could get a slick job like that. Good video!
Thanks 👍
In the drywall aisle they got some metal clips that do wonders. I dont use them often but one job i wish i had bc the wood backing i used caused an old ceiling to break apart even more and a 10 min job turned into a day.
Really interesting. Thanks. Good music too
Glad you enjoyed it
Anyone feel like this man is the Bob Ross of Dry Wall?
Anyone? Aw common man!
Try the Canadian method. Make a patch California style with about one inch of paper around the gypsum. Cut the paper around the hole in the wall one inch around all four sides. Peel the one inch strip of paper off the wall around the perimeter of the hole. Install wood strips about 2.5 to 3 inches wide inside the wall. around the perimeter of the hole. 1.5 inches exposed around the inside perimeter. Mud around the peeled off paper area and back of paper on the patch. Put the patch in the hole and flatten the paper around the perimeter. The paper covers the screws that hold the wood strips. Install screws into patch. The patch paper is now flush with the wall. Mud over the screws holding the patch in place and the fine line around the patch where the wall paper and the patch paper meet. Very little mud used, very little dust and dry time is minimal. Very strong patch!
Lived in Calif all my life and alway used the second method. Just moved to Texas and the roads here really suck!
Lol, life on the straight and narrow. Easy to fall asleep on the roads, be safe
I had my doubts at first Doug, but gosh darn it you pulled it off. nice job
Thanks Chuck! Thanks for watching
Nicely done. I've got the same tool in my truck, Last time I used it to level gravels for some landscaping. Its very comfortable and useful. Besides, mud is mud :)
Right on
I've done both, and sometimes a mix of the two. I normally don't bother with paper tape, because for the smaller patches, the mud itself sets up just fine. If I have access to a stud, I try to overlap the patch at least a quarter of an inch over the stud to give it some extra support. Main thing? I stopped using a keyhole saw a decade ago, sticking with using a rotozip/spiral saw. (I've done a lot of network installations)
Thanks for sharing
Love the old school drill
My dentist still uses a corded drill, so must be good
I've done both kinds of patches, and they are both good techniques. I was today years old when I found out they had names!
Learned something new. Most of my drywall time was industrial maintenance we always used the 'Texas' method. Seemed stronger. I did bevel the 'seem' on both sides and used paper tape. The fiber mat tape was prone to show through.
From what I have observed over the years of observing others drywall repairs, the stick on fiber tape shows through. The upside is it is faster
Great job.
Thank you! Cheers!
I taper sand finish and texture around the joint after cutting square. Much like the long seam on raw drywall. I don't need sanding after final joint compound coat.
20+ year commercial drywall/framer foreman, I have never heard that called a California patch, I always knew it as a "hot" patch, probably due to the fact we usually used hot mud (quick set) to do them. I also like to take a little more time and make the patch fit closer to the hole.
Thanks for sharing
Yep hot patch where I’m from no tape needed
I use the metal or mesh stick-on patch kits and use a few different mud knives to feather out the patching compound, it works good for me.
yes, good method for small holes
At 25:22 I swear I heard you say, "There are no mistakes, just happy accidents."......Channeling Bob Ross.😄
I could watch Bob Ross all day. Thanks for watching
We call it a blast patch and that size one needs a wood backer
Very educational.
Thanks, get ur done
I don't know who told you one was Texas and the other California, but I have been patching drywall like the patch on the left for over 35 years, and I live in Texas. We call it a hot patch. The one on the right I learned in High School in NH. Almost 50 years ago.
Zorr, maybe some political satire
Have tried the cali patch a couple times but always had a problem in getting the drywall off the facing paper with out making a mess.
Then it always seemed to take way more mud than the regular "normal " way. Cause the board tends to depress in the hole cause no backing.. going to try a vali patch with backing.
I did try the regular way backing and used hot mud right in the cut edges and on the surface but with no tape.
Minimal mud and light top coat. Dont know how well it will resist cracking as was just recent.
I have heard you can use canned foam as a filler with no tape. But not going to buy an 15 dollar can of foam to use once for a patch.
Any one had success with that.?
.
When I've cut rectangular holes in sheetrock, I usually cut 3 sides with a keyhole saw and score the 4th.. But if the person who put their fist through the wall has done most of the demo for you, then cutting from the center to the corners probably saves a lot of time.
I definitely want to try finishing drywall with a concrete trowel. I think my wrists would prefer it.
I have used the concrete trowel for decades for drywall patches and pull down applications
Gotcha, thanks a million ❤
My pleasure
I do an "Andy" patch where I leave the hole there, but cut the surrounding paper off the wall, stuff the cavity with newspaper, fill with hot mud, let dry, mesh tape over hole & paper cutaway, then hot mud again, let dry, then topper and sand.
The cutaway paper recesses your tape and makes finishing a snap
You do you Andy
Good job! Rather than sanding, I use a large damp car wash sponge. It make a nice smooth finish and no dust.
Yes, the sponge is good for computer rooms or people with sinus issues ruclips.net/video/RlYWsrQiFUg/видео.html
I tend to use both in tandem
Good tips i do the same good job
Thanks 👍
Can you do a combination of the two to strengthened the wall and add a towel bar?
Absolutely, use a 2x4 to reinforce
EXCELLENT video! Thank You! (It's a California patch because it doesn't need to waste power... LOL!)
You got that right!
couldn't hold the laugh in.😂😂😂
I use a combination of the two. It’s faster and nicer finish using the first method but the added strength and crack prevention of the second is also necessary.
Nice!
I’ve seen the ‘Texas’ patch before, but it was called a California patch, just reinforced.
I'm not trained but I am a texan and can validate that is exactly how i do it, texan style. had no idea that was our thing lol
Strong state, strong repair
Love the idea of using the minimum amount of resources to get er' done😃
cool really made them invisible good work good video
Thanks for watching
Always cut the patch before you cut the wall is top info. I use a combo of both when I have a hole of any size. My patch has a paper border but I always use back straps with it. I would have screwed a vertical piece of 2x4 on the hole with the stud in it. I will never pass up a chance to use a rock-solid backing in any repair. With my method, I never had that sunken look that the California patch had and did not need to "Fill" the indentation. Another trick that I usually do is to put the cut edges of the hole into the wall instead of hauling them away.
Rudy, leaving the cut scraps in the wall is more common than most viewers think. Thanks for watching
I like the Texas wall patch seems more neat that way
Thanks for watching
I was taught to cut stud to stud, add a piece of 2x4 to each side, and screw the patch into that. I kinda like the 'Texas' method, looks like a real time saver that results in a fairly good patch.
Thats a great method for larger patches
I was taught the Cali patch with the reasoning that the paper doesn't sit proud on the joint like the Texas style.
It occurs to me that you could combine the two methods and have a paper flange with your backer boards to create a Tim the Tool Man Taylor overkill version. That is probably what I would do myself.
Yes you can combine the two methods if you want to overkill it. There may be a good reason to overkill it, like a ceiling patch that gets a lot of ambient light on it in a rich persons house that you can charge a lot of money for the patch.
Wondered myself why not use a cali patch with backer instead of messing around with thick paper. Thought there might be a good reason, but couldn't find it yet
Good presenting style keeps viewers engaged. Mistake others do is they don't tell you why certain steps need to be taken.
Thanks, glad this helps you
Great job I did learn a lot. Thanks
Jam on
I prefer the Texas patch (never heard it called that) but leave at least 1/4 inch gap around the patch so the mud get in and bonds the patch to the rest of the wall board.
Good tip
I do a hybrid version of the two, start with straps, 1/2 or 3/4" plywood, to prevent push through, from there it's the California patch, no tape needed. Work smarter, not harder. Also, I don't thin my mud to reduce shrinkage.
Best guess as to why they call it the California, they've been having grid issues for years, so if it doesn't need power......
True dat
There's an easier way that does not put the proud bulge in the wall to be floated out.
Use 2 pieces of drywall for a backer that supports all 4 joints.
Fasten them with screws as you did with the wood, but also glue them in place with some Durabond.
Then put a brand new blade in your utility knife and cut any burrs from the edges of your cuts and angle them slightly so there will be a V-shaped joint, when viewed in section.
Mix up more Durabond and apply to the edges of the hole in the wall and the edges of the patch.
Press the patch in, clean off the Durabond with a blade, then clean the entire repair with a damp cloth, leaving only Durabond in the joint.
Remove the screws used for the backers, apply a finish coat of E-Z- Sand and get paid.
With all the joints supported from the rear, there is no need for tape on the outside.
100 percent correct, Good to see another finisher that knows how to do punchout.
Honest question, doesn't the tape also prevent cracks from occurring/being visible? I'm just wondering if in a situation where a home experiences more temp shifts, or is an older home, having the taped edges prevents those cracks when shifts/changes occur? I'm renoing my first house and self teaching drywall (and repairs) - have done both types shown in this video, but curious about your fix.
@@jenniferrooks678 Yes, that is the purpose of the tape.
The joint between two pieces of drywall will open up if it is simply filled with joint compound.
By bridging the joint, vibrations or changes in temperature or humidity are shared.
See my answer above for a better way. It puts the bridging on the back side of the repair.
This avoids the lump of the tape that has to be floated out, which is a very challenging thing for amateurs to get right.
Garfield farkle could you go into greater depth/detail your way sounds awesome… I have a hole repair where my mom put her power recliner into the wall it’s about a jagged 4x6 offset hole. Appreciate any help.
new york patch
I've seen people do both but the most common that I've seen is a mixture of both Strip the dry wall like the 1st one Screw it to the wall with a scrap 2 by 4 And then Mud it California Style no need for the tape
Yes, great for larger patches
As a handy/repairman, I always use the Texas style, but never heard it referred as such. Learned it someplace through the years. However, I always try to use 4 pieces of wood, one at each corner to strengthen it, and never use tape. Never had a problem with trying to smooth out that way, and is always impossible to know it was patched. As for the California style, I have seem it used by others, but always thought of it as a waist of time and material. Good video though.
Wondering how Texas got credit for drywall repair. Seems unfair.
Friend, with no tape, you guarantee cracking.
What state are you from Neil?
@@donpoole8617 I have been told that before, but I repaired my own living room wall 7 years ago, and to this date it has not cracked. I don't use the pre mixed spackel, I mix my own and allow for several layers to dry and then sand it smooth. Never ever had a complain. Now, if the are is a large area needing repair, then I use tape, but when it comes to smaller repairs I never had a problem nor complaints from customers.
Orange peel walls are harder to match. Can do pretty close though.
I’ll use both very commonly, sometimes I’ll do California style but still use back-bracing if it’s too big. It just depends on what I have on me and what will be easier.
I do a mix, one piece of wood down the center of the hole, and cut the back side out and use front side as the tape. Best of both worlds
Yes, the drywall paper seems thinner
I live in California and no pro drywaller by any means , but have always used the Texas way to do my repairs 👍
Right on
Used both methods only other thing I do is if next to a stud cut to the center of the stud and use durobond 90 for the mud mix dries quicker and is stronger than bucket mud.
yes, always better to hit a stud. Thanks for watching
What is that drywall.. it seems different or something...
It seems much firmer..
Hi Douglas - enjoyed your video. But what about a large closet ceiling hole 18" x 15" that doesn't have any wood in ceiling to attach to (just sagging plaster)? This seems way too big for California style. I have a photo if there is a way to send it to you.
Hey Bruce, go with the Texas style patch with the wood trim support ruclips.net/video/iNsC3BYRqhs/видео.html
@@douglashill7059 Thanks for reply. OK I looked at other video. Do you call it "floating" because the wood is only attached to drywall and not anchored wood? Also, are wood shims thick enough or do you need more substantial thicker pieces?
What was the reason for cutting to the stud? I didn't see how that came into play and made the patch unnecessarily larger.
This was not a stud mounted patch video, working in reality this would have been one larger patch over the stud and with wood backing. Thanks for watching
What was the point in extending the cut all the way to the stud in the Texas patch?
no point, just wanted to cut out the broken drywall with a large enough hole
- prefill but joints with hot mud
- tape/ or fiba fuse
- squeeze out the hot mud bottom of the tape
- hot mud the entire patch area
- sand
-apply second coat
-sand with higher grit
-apply third coat of all purpose mud
Primer than paint
Thanks for sharing. Approve final coat with premix
Where was the primer coat over the fresh drywall mud?
brushed on
Master Class
Thanks for watching
As a Californian, who has patched drywall holes, I have never seen the "Ca method" you showed. Many ways to skin a cat?
Ok, your Texas "way" is EXACTLY how we do it in California. At least the way I was taught. However, on that patch, I would have used the sticky and thin "fiberglass" tape.
Thanks for sharing
Would you ever want to replace a section from stud to stud?
Absolutely, when it is a large repair
Serious question. Why not combine both. The back bone of Texas with the cover and flush fit of California. Strong and doesn’t waste paper?
It is a thing, give it a try
Is wet sanding not an option for reducing dust? Either way you swing it (AC off/windows closed etc) there will always be convection currents in the air, pulling the tiny dust particles around, and it's the tiny ones you really want to avoid.
I know a bunch about the dust side of things, but I don't know much about the viability of wet sanding. 😅
Try this diy patch with wet sanding ruclips.net/video/RlYWsrQiFUg/видео.html
@@douglashill7059 Neat! That was considerably less water than I had anticipated. 😄
California contractor for 30 plus years. Here we do it in both styles depending on hole size and cut only minimum of the wall out. Not sure how you derived the difference from states but most use hot mud so the patch is done quicker than your video was!
Hot mud has its place as well as premix. I use both
"California" method="blowout" patch. I spent half my life doing drywall patchwork. It all depends on what you CAN do. Btw, put the backup pieces along the edges, not in the middle. Doing that insures that the edges mate perfectly. And regarding tape type, the fiberglass tape is superior but must be used with setting type compound-not recommended for diyers.
For dust free sanding use a wet sanding sponge. Absolute game changer!
Absolutely! See this video with sponge sanding ruclips.net/video/RlYWsrQiFUg/видео.html
If your going to cut it and square it up might as well add some blocking. Usually I’ll cut it into a hole the size of my fist and cut the cali patch the size of my fist. If I have to do all that I’ll add blocking
Yes, demo is one CA patch without backing and the other patch is with backing. I prefer backing it with wood/screwed, but it is nice to have options
The Texas patch or as my dad would say "The right way" especially for big holes like when you throw your brother through the wall while rough-housing.
Lol, great way to learn a new skill