So I just have to say: this review is by far the most well thought out and explained that I've seen about 3D printers in general. Very thorough, clearly researched and not just "I tested it once and it was fine" type of review. I saved this video for future reference as my odin 5 arrives tomorrow. My only regret was that I bought it before I found this video and was unable to use the affiliate links as a result.
The best printer review I have ever seen! It's clear to me that a lot of research, testing, and preparation was done in order to have such an honest and complete presentation.
I agree 100%! I've been online since the mid-90s, and seen plenty of gear reviews in my time, and hands down this is the best ever. You have a new subscriber!
one of the best walkthroughs on youtube. As someone just entering the world of 3D printing, I really appreciate this (and of course your other videos).
It is easy to fix the ghosting on this machine. The wheels are of very poor quality and have play in them. When I replaced them many of them fell apart in my hands. New wheels removed all play from the bed and print unit and print quality improved very much. Nice review!
There are a number of people very active creating more advanced Marlin builds for this printer. I expect upgrades will be available relatively shortly. In terms of ABL, the print bed is so good, and the Y-AXIS consistency is excellent so I have seen little need in my tests so far.
Been using Odin 5 for 5 months now, and haven't even had to bed level. It's been printing very clean, and been very reliable access consistent, cuz I've been printing toys for IC3D toys for tots. It's definitely an Ender 3 killer. I would love to see the next gen with linear rail, auto leveling probe, dual gear feeder, and Wifi + led light
Thank you very much for your very clear, informative and calm video (most youtubers like to put background music and explain things very quickly only to get views...). You saved me from tenth of hours of headache to get this printer working properly. Turns out my prints where bad because the frame was not screwed perfectly as well as some leveling issues, but mainly because I was using Fokoos Slicer which is very bad compared to the genuine up to date Cura. You got a new subscriber sir. Keep up the good work :)
hi... great review...in fact it got me to buy one for my step daughter instead of an Ender like I have. She runs a mac laptop so she has no way to do cards w/o an adapter. She wants to know how to connect her laptop directly to it.. I tried to talk to her but she won't listen so this question I asked... Keep up the GREAT work sir... & thanks
Actually what I really need is an easy change nozzle+filament. It is quite a hassle to change filament btw PLA and PETG. I always swap between them, when prototyping and actual product prints.
in cura under manage printers, materials, printer settings tab, does this retraction distance override the retraction distance in the printer settings profiles set as described in your video? There are different retraction distances for different materials. (video: Fokoos Odin 5 F3 Foldable 3d Printer Review and Setup)
Hello! In the meantime I found very different reviews for this printer: from „buy it!“ to „really, really bad“, the variety is large. What do you say after some months now?
So far no issues. But since I have a lot of different printers I have not printed on it as much as I would like. Another interesting choice is the Mingda Magician X. I like the filament feeding on the Fokoos better but I think overall the Mingda may have better firmware.
I've had mine since December. It printed great until about a month ago. I had to get a new heat block and install it. The circuit board is pretty bad. The connectors almost pull out without hardly moving them. But the main problem is I think the bed is warped pretty bad. The center is dipped down and hard to get a good first layer. I've seen other people with these problems. I'm deciding if I should get a new bed or try placing foil under the middle of the bed. Has anyone else had these problems?
Sorry to hear that. I see no harm in putting foil under the center the the bed. I donated my Fokoos to a local school so I cannot look at it but I did not have a bed issue on mine.
Great walkthrough on how to add a customised printer in Cura and modify the start G-code settings. Nice job as always. What was the flexi-dragon model you showed in the silk filament?
Love you stuff. This printer is a problem child for me. I wonder if you’ve experienced these issues … every start up it asks to resume the previous print. It writes a file to the card and until that go always, it keeps asking. Also, babystepping z offset value isn’t saved. So you get to do it every time!
I have not seen this. I would try a new sdcard it is possible your card is corrupt. I will have to test the babystepping option to see how the works. I have not done that yet. A number of marlin ports are in the works and those might also be an interesting alternative.
Great Video! I downloaded my cura software and when saving a file it appears save to disk and not save yet files or save files. I got the new update in which is the 4.12. Any suggestions?
Sorry, I am not sure I understand your question. Try heading over to forum.makewithtech.com and posting your question there. On the forum, you will be able to include pictures that may clarify your question.
Thanks Dr. Last two weeks I had a Prusa MK3s+ to play with and got me interested in 3D printing. The machine was almost running nonstop. I came to your videos and I was going to buy an ender 5 pro based on your earlier reviews. Which one do you suggest? I know I will be missing Prusa but does this Fokoos lie somewhere between ender 5 pro and Prusa or no, somewhere between ender 3 and 5?
Yes. I think the Ender 5 Pro is a lot more printer in particular if you want to do your own modifications. This is a much better printer for a beginner who wants a printer that will work out of the box with practically no assembly.
Hi I have been following your channel for sometime now I now have a Creality Ender 3 and a Voxelab Proxima 6.0 UV Photocuring Resin 3D Printers, I would like to print my own figures for my 00 railway layout but can not find any STL files that will do, I would like to design my own but do not know were to start can you help.
With the dual-z dual stepper configuration, the z-sync upgrade is a must. It can be added onto this printer with ease from what I can see in the video, and you can probably even use a z-sync kit from Creality. That z-sync upgrade will prevent the two lead screws from moving independently. One thing is important in such a configuration though and that is you need to make sure the two extrusions for the Y gantry are absolute equal in length. If not you may need to shim them. Then you need to ensure the top of the gantry is parallel to the x-gantry, and not measure parallel to the printing surface. Measuring and adjusting parallel to the plate is not the correct method, and may cause print issues.
I wonder. My Wanhao i3 Plus has two stepper motors, and two Z axis screws (this was bought in 2017). I don't know if they're driven separately or from the same driver circuit. When I first got it, the gantry wasn't actually level, all the advice I came across said to level it using a square, and all you really had to do was turn the printer off (this freed up the stepper motors) and turn the right hand motor by hand until the X-axis rail was horizontal. No need to loosen the rod connector. Whenever you home the Z axis, the two motors move in unison and stop when the Z stop switch on the left upright is actuated, this determines Z=0. I've heard from others who've had, when the printer is turned off, of the right side "sagging" and having to re-establish squareness but I've never had this happen - I've never had to mess with it since. The printer which I'm getting tomorrow (11-11 sale!), the Artillery X2, also has two motors and two Z axis screws, but the two screws are connected at the top by wheels and a belt. If I needed to re-adjust the right side I'd need to remove the belt, and then rotate the screw manually with the printer off, before re-attaching the belt. With the printer off, I don't think think there's any danger of "unzero-ing" of "throwing off" the stepper motor's position because these stepper motors don't really keep track of their positions when the printer is off. When you turn the printer back on, before you can actually print anything, the Z axis needs to be homed - this is where the stepper motors on both sides determine where "0" is. The right hand motor is simply set up to mirror whatever movements the left side motor does.
@@ahmetmetinuzun The printer (the Odin) didn't have it when it came out of the box. As I said, I don't know if it's really necessary - I didn't need it for my Wanhao, which does have two independent stepper motors for the Z axis. Not really sure what the kit does or how it works because I haven't looked at the kit yet.
Your Wanhao may be a special case due to its design. I am confident that all Creality or clone printers with a dual-z dual stepper configuration will need it. It's a common complaint, and for that reason some of the Creality models come with it built-in.
@@stephenratliff486 the heat brake that fits the "Kraken Chimera Chimera+ Cyclops Cyclops+" will fit the Fokoos printer. It's a little longer than the original. I trimmed one to right length and left one longer and adjusted the Z stop. Both work great even in a 60°c chamber. I did have a heat creep issue with the solid titanium brake until I used a good heat transfer compound.
Thanks for the info. I just upgaded my CR10V3 to a bi metal heat brake this week so I still have several CCs of Slice Engineering thermal paste left. I wasn't sure which heat brake I would need since the V3 has a V6 hotend clone so I bought one that fits the standard Ender/CR series and one that fits the V6. It turned out to to be the first so now I have a V6 heat brake left and I just so happened to see a Oden-5 on Marketplace brand new with box for $140 with a roll of PLA+ so I figured why not? It's my first non Creality Printer (others are Enders) and so far I've been impressed. I was very curious about whether it was a true all metal hotend but wasn't ready to tear it apart yet and I haven't seen this addressed yet in any reviews. So again thanks for the info!
I have tested small delta printers. The larger ones are expensive so I have not reviewed them so far. I do like the concept but on the small ones bed adhesion has been a problem for me.
For a while I was seriously considering buying one of the FLSun deltas. The main drawback is build plate size. Since they're round, the largest object you can fit on them is limited when compared to printers of about the same price with a rectangular or square build plate. A delta that could fit a 300mm x 300mm object would need a build plate with a diameter of 424mm and would be tremendously expensive.
@@iskandartaib I know what you mean, but speed is the main reason why I'm CNC building a 300 by 500mm Delta. I'm hoping to get standard printing speeds of 200 mm/s and up.😁🤔🤞
@@mamatuja Yes, they are known for speed. On the other hand so are Core XY machines.. I haven't looked into which is faster. It does look like building Vorons has become a craze as of late, but it's way beyond what I would want let alone need.. 😁
@@iskandartaib Yes, core XY is pretty nice, I'd like to build one of those also, But the weight of the moving parts is not as evenly distributed as is on the Delta printer. If correctly built Delta still has an advantage over any other 3-D printer at the moment in my opinion.
Hello, thank you for this great review! It really made me curious, so I followed your Amazon-Link. 359 $ is ok for this printer, I think. Although I would like to use your afiliate-link, I switched to Amazon Germany. 359 € are ok too. But: 170 € for shipping and custom-service!!! Sorry, no way, I get a used Prusa Mk3 for the money. You said the extruder is very well. Is it a double extruder? Unfortunately the community uses Facebook, which is in my opinion a criminal association. I will investigate, if there is a European seller for this printer. Thanks a again for your review!
One thing that's quite curious is that this seems to be a Chinese company, but people in China don't have access to Facebook, unless it's through a VPN.
WARNING !!! I have discovered a very serious and potentially highly dangerous flaw with the Fokoos Odin5. When the ribbon connector that connects to the print head becomes worn over time it can lead to highly erratic temperature readings, for me this lead to thermal runaway with the hotend reaching over 300 degrees centigrade, smoke was pouring out of the print head and this could have lead to a real disaster if I hadn't been in the room when it happened. Please anyone who reads this help to get the word out there, this is a very serious issue and could possibly lead to tragedy. Thanks for your time and stay safe.
Nice rewiew but the must is you return to sleeping because this printer is a crap. Before staring i need to change all bearings who's have a big jerk betwen bearing and roller. No instruction for the double Z who have no sycronous belt and z motor free when the printer is on. No whell for the filament. I hope you have a good compensation for this review who see my friendly gone. Good bye noob !
Got it on Amazon for 175 so I'm happy can't wait to get into this hobby
So I just have to say: this review is by far the most well thought out and explained that I've seen about 3D printers in general. Very thorough, clearly researched and not just "I tested it once and it was fine" type of review. I saved this video for future reference as my odin 5 arrives tomorrow. My only regret was that I bought it before I found this video and was unable to use the affiliate links as a result.
The best printer review I have ever seen! It's clear to me that a lot of research, testing, and preparation was done in order to have such an honest and complete presentation.
Thank you.
I agree 100%! I've been online since the mid-90s, and seen plenty of gear reviews in my time, and hands down this is the best ever. You have a new subscriber!
You packed a lot into a complete review without any time wasted. Very impressive. Thanks!
one of the best walkthroughs on youtube. As someone just entering the world of 3D printing, I really appreciate this (and of course your other videos).
Thanks Dr. ,thanks for this learing class of our FOKOOS Odin-5 F3 foldable 3d printer.😃
You are very welcome
It is easy to fix the ghosting on this machine. The wheels are of very poor quality and have play in them. When I replaced them many of them fell apart in my hands. New wheels removed all play from the bed and print unit and print quality improved very much. Nice review!
Looks like a great gen1 start for them - looking forward to ABL option etc - nice vid Irv... keep up the good work
There are a number of people very active creating more advanced Marlin builds for this printer. I expect upgrades will be available relatively shortly. In terms of ABL, the print bed is so good, and the Y-AXIS consistency is excellent so I have seen little need in my tests so far.
Been using Odin 5 for 5 months now, and haven't even had to bed level. It's been printing very clean, and been very reliable access consistent, cuz I've been printing toys for IC3D toys for tots. It's definitely an Ender 3 killer.
I would love to see the next gen with linear rail, auto leveling probe, dual gear feeder, and Wifi + led light
I have been looking forward to your review on this printer for almost a year. I hope you enjoy it. The community is great and growing fast.
It seems the community is very supportive and growing rapidly.
Thank you for sharing your information, especially about the Cura settings and the binary header via the MKS plugin.
Outstanding from start to finish. Thank you for your excellent and comprehensive review.
Love that fokoos I use the profile on cura And It became my most reliable printer this Machine is one of my favorites
Thank you very much for your very clear, informative and calm video (most youtubers like to put background music and explain things very quickly only to get views...). You saved me from tenth of hours of headache to get this printer working properly. Turns out my prints where bad because the frame was not screwed perfectly as well as some leveling issues, but mainly because I was using Fokoos Slicer which is very bad compared to the genuine up to date Cura.
You got a new subscriber sir. Keep up the good work :)
Have you set up profiles to use this printer with Cura and/or Prusaslicer?
Very good information for noobs like me. I love it, thanx a lot! Will this guide work with the FOKOOS Odin Smart by any chance?
Thank you for showing how to move my waste print so it is not under the belts on my Sermoon D1when the head is Home
which printer is better fokoos Odin 5 f3 sunlu t3 3d printer
The printer will be auto stop (power shutdown) when it is done?
hi... great review...in fact it got me to buy one for my step daughter instead of an Ender like I have. She runs a mac laptop so she has no way to do cards w/o an adapter. She wants to know how to connect her laptop directly to it.. I tried to talk to her but she won't listen so this question I asked...
Keep up the GREAT work sir... & thanks
Another great review. I think I will buy this one. I was looking at the Anet beginner printer, but this one is a great value for the money.
Would you loose display functionality using custom compiled marlin fw and revert to 12864 screen?
Actually what I really need is an easy change nozzle+filament. It is quite a hassle to change filament btw PLA and PETG. I always swap between them, when prototyping and actual product prints.
23:38 The ender 3 IS this class.
in cura under manage printers, materials, printer settings tab, does this retraction distance override the retraction distance in the printer settings profiles set as described in your video? There are different retraction distances for different materials. (video: Fokoos Odin 5 F3 Foldable 3d Printer Review and Setup)
Hi, does anyone know why MKS WiFi Plugin is only available to some profiles and not to others in Cura?
Installed the MKS wifi, restarted buut under manage printers no wifi option, no i"m running fokoos version of carera?
whats wrong?
I want to buy my first 3d printer. Was pretty much set on a prusa mini+, until I saw this review. Which would you recommend best for a beginner?
I wish they had this 5 years ago when I started having headaches.
Where to get metal replacement for Teflon tube?
Hello! In the meantime I found very different reviews for this printer: from „buy it!“ to „really, really bad“, the variety is large. What do you say after some months now?
So far no issues. But since I have a lot of different printers I have not printed on it as much as I would like. Another interesting choice is the Mingda Magician X. I like the filament feeding on the Fokoos better but I think overall the Mingda may have better firmware.
I feel with the capability to tilt the whole gantry, there is a potential to design mods for converting it into a belt printer like CR-30
I've had mine since December. It printed great until about a month ago. I had to get a new heat block and install it. The circuit board is pretty bad. The connectors almost pull out without hardly moving them. But the main problem is I think the bed is warped pretty bad. The center is dipped down and hard to get a good first layer. I've seen other people with these problems. I'm deciding if I should get a new bed or try placing foil under the middle of the bed. Has anyone else had these problems?
Sorry to hear that. I see no harm in putting foil under the center the the bed. I donated my Fokoos to a local school so I cannot look at it but I did not have a bed issue on mine.
Interesting. Can you use this printer with Octoprint?
Yes. I varied the USB port works properly
Great walkthrough on how to add a customised printer in Cura and modify the start G-code settings. Nice job as always. What was the flexi-dragon model you showed in the silk filament?
thanks.
Love you stuff. This printer is a problem child for me. I wonder if you’ve experienced these issues … every start up it asks to resume the previous print. It writes a file to the card and until that go always, it keeps asking. Also, babystepping z offset value isn’t saved. So you get to do it every time!
I have not seen this. I would try a new sdcard it is possible your card is corrupt. I will have to test the babystepping option to see how the works. I have not done that yet. A number of marlin ports are in the works and those might also be an interesting alternative.
great job Dr 😍
Thanks
Great Video! I downloaded my cura software and when saving a file it appears save to disk and not save yet files or save files. I got the new update in which is the 4.12. Any suggestions?
Sorry, I am not sure I understand your question. Try heading over to forum.makewithtech.com and posting your question there. On the forum, you will be able to include pictures that may clarify your question.
a foldable sidewinder X1 just smaller :-) with better on stock features - but missing ABL
The bed adhesion is so good and the Z axis movement so reliable that I really am not sure ABL is necessary.
Thanks Dr. Last two weeks I had a Prusa MK3s+ to play with and got me interested in 3D printing. The machine was almost running nonstop. I came to your videos and I was going to buy an ender 5 pro based on your earlier reviews. Which one do you suggest? I know I will be missing Prusa but does this Fokoos lie somewhere between ender 5 pro and Prusa or no, somewhere between ender 3 and 5?
Yes. I think the Ender 5 Pro is a lot more printer in particular if you want to do your own modifications. This is a much better printer for a beginner who wants a printer that will work out of the box with practically no assembly.
Hi I have been following your channel for sometime now I now have a Creality Ender 3 and a Voxelab Proxima 6.0 UV Photocuring Resin 3D Printers, I would like to print my own figures for my 00 railway layout but can not find any STL files that will do, I would like to design my own but do not know were to start can you help.
Do you know of any upgrades I could do to my flashforge finder?
In general Flashforge printers are a bit difficult to upgrade.
@@MakeWithTech ah dang
Really great review
I think it's funny that Fokoos is pronounced Focus. Who would know that? It's an interesting concept.
Good review, looks like a good printer for the price. Like the dual Z,. Linear rails might help some of the X- Y ghosting
Just want to clarify this printer does not have linear rails. It uses v-slot wheels on an extrusion. This is the same as the ender 3 and 5.
@@MakeWithTech i was suggesting that replacing the v-slot wheels with linear rails might help with ghosting. Sorry i was not more clear
With the dual-z dual stepper configuration, the z-sync upgrade is a must. It can be added onto this printer with ease from what I can see in the video, and you can probably even use a z-sync kit from Creality. That z-sync upgrade will prevent the two lead screws from moving independently. One thing is important in such a configuration though and that is you need to make sure the two extrusions for the Y gantry are absolute equal in length. If not you may need to shim them. Then you need to ensure the top of the gantry is parallel to the x-gantry, and not measure parallel to the printing surface. Measuring and adjusting parallel to the plate is not the correct method, and may cause print issues.
I agree.
I wonder. My Wanhao i3 Plus has two stepper motors, and two Z axis screws (this was bought in 2017). I don't know if they're driven separately or from the same driver circuit. When I first got it, the gantry wasn't actually level, all the advice I came across said to level it using a square, and all you really had to do was turn the printer off (this freed up the stepper motors) and turn the right hand motor by hand until the X-axis rail was horizontal. No need to loosen the rod connector. Whenever you home the Z axis, the two motors move in unison and stop when the Z stop switch on the left upright is actuated, this determines Z=0. I've heard from others who've had, when the printer is turned off, of the right side "sagging" and having to re-establish squareness but I've never had this happen - I've never had to mess with it since. The printer which I'm getting tomorrow (11-11 sale!), the Artillery X2, also has two motors and two Z axis screws, but the two screws are connected at the top by wheels and a belt. If I needed to re-adjust the right side I'd need to remove the belt, and then rotate the screw manually with the printer off, before re-attaching the belt. With the printer off, I don't think think there's any danger of "unzero-ing" of "throwing off" the stepper motor's position because these stepper motors don't really keep track of their positions when the printer is off. When you turn the printer back on, before you can actually print anything, the Z axis needs to be homed - this is where the stepper motors on both sides determine where "0" is. The right hand motor is simply set up to mirror whatever movements the left side motor does.
@@iskandartaib You won't have to readjust since the new printer has a z-sync kit.
@@ahmetmetinuzun The printer (the Odin) didn't have it when it came out of the box. As I said, I don't know if it's really necessary - I didn't need it for my Wanhao, which does have two independent stepper motors for the Z axis. Not really sure what the kit does or how it works because I haven't looked at the kit yet.
Your Wanhao may be a special case due to its design. I am confident that all Creality or clone printers with a dual-z dual stepper configuration will need it. It's a common complaint, and for that reason some of the Creality models come with it built-in.
This printer is currently on sale on Newegg for $174. I wish I wasn't dead broke atm :(
Review and support local (for a change).
I have three. They don't have an all metal hot end.
It's PTFE TO THE NOZZLE.
I was really hoping in one of these reviews someone would address this.
Will a V6 bi-metal heat brake fit?
@@stephenratliff486 the heat brake that fits the "Kraken Chimera Chimera+ Cyclops Cyclops+" will fit the Fokoos printer. It's a little longer than the original. I trimmed one to right length and left one longer and adjusted the Z stop. Both work great even in a 60°c chamber. I did have a heat creep issue with the solid titanium brake until I used a good heat transfer compound.
Thanks for the info. I just upgaded my CR10V3 to a bi metal heat brake this week so I still have several CCs of Slice Engineering thermal paste left. I wasn't sure which heat brake I would need since the V3 has a V6 hotend clone so I bought one that fits the standard Ender/CR series and one that fits the V6. It turned out to to be the first so now I have a V6 heat brake left and I just so happened to see a Oden-5 on Marketplace brand new with box for $140 with a roll of PLA+ so I figured why not? It's my first non Creality Printer (others are Enders) and so far I've been impressed. I was very curious about whether it was a true all metal hotend but wasn't ready to tear it apart yet and I haven't seen this addressed yet in any reviews. So again thanks for the info!
Why don't you talk about more about Delta printers? What do you like and don't like about them?
I have tested small delta printers. The larger ones are expensive so I have not reviewed them so far. I do like the concept but on the small ones bed adhesion has been a problem for me.
For a while I was seriously considering buying one of the FLSun deltas. The main drawback is build plate size. Since they're round, the largest object you can fit on them is limited when compared to printers of about the same price with a rectangular or square build plate. A delta that could fit a 300mm x 300mm object would need a build plate with a diameter of 424mm and would be tremendously expensive.
@@iskandartaib I know what you mean, but speed is the main reason why I'm CNC building a 300 by 500mm Delta. I'm hoping to get standard printing speeds of 200 mm/s and up.😁🤔🤞
@@mamatuja Yes, they are known for speed. On the other hand so are Core XY machines.. I haven't looked into which is faster. It does look like building Vorons has become a craze as of late, but it's way beyond what I would want let alone need.. 😁
@@iskandartaib Yes, core XY is pretty nice, I'd like to build one of those also, But the weight of the moving parts is not as evenly distributed as is on the Delta printer. If correctly built Delta still has an advantage over any other 3-D printer at the moment in my opinion.
Hello, thank you for this great review! It really made me curious, so I followed your Amazon-Link. 359 $ is ok for this printer, I think. Although I would like to use your afiliate-link, I switched to Amazon Germany. 359 € are ok too. But: 170 € for shipping and custom-service!!! Sorry, no way, I get a used Prusa Mk3 for the money.
You said the extruder is very well. Is it a double extruder? Unfortunately the community uses Facebook, which is in my opinion a criminal association.
I will investigate, if there is a European seller for this printer. Thanks a again for your review!
I uses a single gear extruder but it has been extremely reliable so far.
One thing that's quite curious is that this seems to be a Chinese company, but people in China don't have access to Facebook, unless it's through a VPN.
Their German website is selling for 249 euro and that’s even cheaper.
WARNING !!!
I have discovered a very serious and potentially highly dangerous flaw with the Fokoos Odin5.
When the ribbon connector that connects to the print head becomes worn over time it can lead to highly erratic temperature readings, for me this lead to thermal runaway with the hotend reaching over 300 degrees centigrade, smoke was pouring out of the print head and this could have lead to a real disaster if I hadn't been in the room when it happened.
Please anyone who reads this help to get the word out there, this is a very serious issue and could possibly lead to tragedy.
Thanks for your time and stay safe.
Thanks for the warning - did the printer shut off by itself, or did you have to turn it off?
@@johns4247 I had to turn it off manually.
Nice rewiew but the must is you return to sleeping because this printer is a crap.
Before staring i need to change all bearings who's have a big jerk betwen bearing and roller. No instruction for the double Z who have no sycronous belt and z motor free when the printer is on.
No whell for the filament. I hope you have a good compensation for this review who see my friendly gone. Good bye noob !