For years i sent out cranks for bearing service . Your video showing how to do it with the proper tools changed my mind. So I bought the tool you showed and it worked great. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Just pulled my crankshaft on my YZ and the bearing was still on. I happen to have one of these pullers but didnt think about using it.
Not a bad way to work , you may have something in that big hole idea . l work on my scooters with the cases hanging over on the table end is the rear axle or rear pulley keeping it level and stable . lf working on the other crankshaft end l balance it on the corner but l had no choice until now . So thankyou for that , l would need to cover the hole though or constantly pick up hard to see things all day . Cheers .
i have a `93 polaris 250 and it seems to me the 6000+ miles on it had siezed one side of the crank set of bearings i had one of those tools and bent 4 bolts that clamp the jaws so this tool is for fairly new crankshafts not recccomended for old ones like mine.So after my frustrations of trying so hard i just used a torch and cut them off...i do have prior years of experience with cutting torches so be careful not to damage the crankshaft.
Hi, I have a genuine factory puller (Kawasaki) which I bought 40 years ago which is identical to the Honda tool apart from the two rods which screw into the puller halves. Even with the factory tool you have to drive both halves in with a mallet before you start pulling the bearing. It's worthwhile adding thread protectors to your kit to avoid damaging the threaded portion (generator or magneto side crankshaft). There is a specific thread protector (factory tool) for the Yamaha XT350 which has a female thread on the generator side crankshaft which must also be used in conjunction with the flywheel puller.
Thanks for the info I thought about using the tool you slid under the bearing. I just didn't know about everything else that would connect to the rod for a pulling up motion. I usually put the end with bearing back on case and then tap crank off with my soft hammer. then I have both bearings still in case. If I don't know the background of bearings or crank, I just get new stuff to be safe!
Very good , you never raised a sweat or got up . l was thinking maybe some expletives and cooling off before a big loud noise, which reminds me of my effort . A silly question would be , has the pulled bearing been compromised by forcing only the outer side of the bearing when the inner diameter is interference fit ? Can this be limited by sliding the puller in again after the bearing is being pulled ? l have heard once you have pulled one ...? it's life is over, but then why buy the tool when the bearing is sacrificed ? Thanks mate, cheers .
Thanks for this upload. Kindly tell me the symptoms of bad crank? If possible a video will be great. I'm going to overhaul my xl70 engine therefore your tips will be helpful.
You heat up the bearing races in the cases, freeze the bearings in zip-bags, and drop them in the cases. Then you use a puller to pull the crankshaft-axle into the bearing.
Brought a sealey kit (before seeing your other videos) and the standoffs are crap as it the splitter and it causes the bars through the splitter to bend and just won’t pull the bearing off. I figured as it was a £90 kit at the time it should have been half decent. Do you have any recommendations for a decent brand for ones of these? Yours looks a lot more solid than mine
@@dirtygarageguy cheers, considerably more expensive but looks well made so have ordered the 110mm kit and stuck the burred made of butter sealey kit in the bin
If I split cases for something, and dont need to change the crank or crank bearings, and the bearing is stuck on the crank, will I have to remove the bearing and put it into the case seperate from the crank or can I put it in with the crank at the same time?
Hi, I know that two years has passed before seeing this post, however it would depend on whether the crankshaft has bearings pressed onto it or fitted into the cases. The bearing tool seen here is for pulling bearings off crankshafts etc. Different procedures apply to bearings fitted into crankcases. Trust this helps-JD.
Hello mate, do you mean the crankshaft is stuck in the bearing thats in the casing? Get yourself a block of wood and smack the wood with a heavy hammer, making sure the cank is free to drop out but doesn't fall onto the ground. - matt
@@dirtygarageguy doing it wrong is when you don't thread the nut on that's why you put the nut on and like mentioned in another comment lubricate the end of the crank and puller to eliminate friction
@@dirtygarageguy so what your saying is every bearing always just pops off without any problems no I don't need you to calculate anything I've seen all I need to see thank you
The compressive strength of the end of a shaft is way way higher than the fit of a bearing. If you have seen failures that because some retard is making bad cranks. There's a specs for centres in shaft vs diameter. You won't be seeing failures on Japanese cranks, I know that much.
The Workshop well I figured that if it was that difficult to get them off then it would be just as hard to get them on. If you don't want to do a video then that is fine but if you take them off I would guess you are going to put it back on.
Put bearings and crank in freezer over night. (They contract when frozen.) Oil the shaft well, drop bearing on shaft, big deep set socket placed on the bearing, and tap, tap, tap . . .
Saw the video, bought the tool, used it, works perfectly. Thanks
For years i sent out cranks for bearing service .
Your video showing how to do it with the proper tools changed my mind.
So I bought the tool you showed and it worked great.
Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Just pulled my crankshaft on my YZ and the bearing was still on. I happen to have one of these pullers but didnt think about using it.
Always a good idea to put a dab of grease on end of crankshaft and puller to help reduce friction and any chance of burring
What?
Yes it is
Drill a hole in the bench and put the shaft in it. It will make your job easier.
Not a bad way to work , you may have something in that big hole idea . l work on my scooters with the cases hanging over on the table end is the rear axle or rear pulley keeping it level and stable . lf working on the other crankshaft end l balance it on the corner but l had no choice until now . So thankyou for that , l would need to cover the hole though or constantly pick up hard to see things all day . Cheers .
Hey man my bearings are good it's just the crank hand is wiggling what is that then? Another bearing
i have a `93 polaris 250 and it seems to me the 6000+ miles on it had siezed one side of the crank set of bearings i had one of those tools and bent 4 bolts that clamp the jaws so this tool is for fairly new crankshafts not recccomended for old ones like mine.So after my frustrations of trying so hard i just used a torch and cut them off...i do have prior years of experience with cutting torches so be careful not to damage the crankshaft.
Hi, I have a genuine factory puller (Kawasaki) which I bought 40 years ago which is identical to the Honda tool apart from the two rods which screw into the puller halves. Even with the factory tool you have to drive both halves in with a mallet before you start pulling the bearing.
It's worthwhile adding thread protectors to your kit to avoid damaging the threaded portion (generator or magneto side crankshaft).
There is a specific thread protector (factory tool) for the Yamaha XT350 which has a female thread on the generator side crankshaft which must also be used in conjunction with the flywheel puller.
Thanks for the info I thought about using the tool you slid under the bearing. I just didn't know about everything else that would connect to the rod for a pulling up motion. I usually put the end with bearing back on case and then tap crank off with my soft hammer. then I have both bearings still in case. If I don't know the background of bearings or crank, I just get new stuff to be safe!
Got the idea. Sped through the video. Thank you very much for sharing.
Very good , you never raised a sweat or got up . l was thinking maybe some expletives and cooling off before a big loud noise, which reminds me of my effort . A silly question would be , has the pulled bearing been compromised by forcing only the outer side of the bearing when the inner diameter is interference fit ? Can this be limited by sliding the puller in again after the bearing is being pulled ? l have heard once you have pulled one ...? it's life is over, but then why buy the tool when the bearing is sacrificed ? Thanks mate, cheers .
I,m in turkey.How many pullers did you use for the crank bearing you have.
Thanks for this upload. Kindly tell me the symptoms of bad crank? If possible a video will be great. I'm going to overhaul my xl70 engine therefore your tips will be helpful.
thanks man for sharing, usefull tip how to use
Can you list where you get your tools and who makes those
Very helpful!. How do you install the bearing onto the crankshaft?
You heat up the bearing races in the cases, freeze the bearings in zip-bags, and drop them in the cases. Then you use a puller to pull the crankshaft-axle into the bearing.
Brought a sealey kit (before seeing your other videos) and the standoffs are crap as it the splitter and it causes the bars through the splitter to bend and just won’t pull the bearing off. I figured as it was a £90 kit at the time it should have been half decent. Do you have any recommendations for a decent brand for ones of these? Yours looks a lot more solid than mine
Facom
@@dirtygarageguy cheers, considerably more expensive but looks well made so have ordered the 110mm kit and stuck the burred made of butter sealey kit in the bin
Wonder why these dam things all have a roller crank. Designed in short engine life? Cheaper to make? Both?
Do you mean roller bearings? It's the other way around.
ruclips.net/video/0-hWS50VuVA/видео.html
what is a roller crank?
If I split cases for something, and dont need to change the crank or crank bearings, and the bearing is stuck on the crank, will I have to remove the bearing and put it into the case seperate from the crank or can I put it in with the crank at the same time?
Hi, I know that two years has passed before seeing this post, however it would depend on whether the crankshaft has bearings pressed onto it or fitted into the cases. The bearing tool seen here is for pulling bearings off crankshafts etc. Different procedures apply to bearings fitted into crankcases. Trust this helps-JD.
Thanks mate.
walah cak aq gk duwe alat ngonoan,nek aq ngawe betel karo palu ae wes beres
I have a 2008 Yamaha Zuma YW50t and I can't figure out how to get the shaft out, I have the case separated, but the Crank Shaft will not move?
Hello mate, do you mean the crankshaft is stuck in the bearing thats in the casing? Get yourself a block of wood and smack the wood with a heavy hammer, making sure the cank is free to drop out but doesn't fall onto the ground. - matt
Boom!!!! Thanks Matt, I figured that it was going to come to beating it out, I'll give that a shot tomorrow, Thanks again!
no worries mate, tell me how you got on - matt
I got it with a Small Hammer! I was afraid to bang too hard and bust the case itself, so now I'm good...Thanks a Million!!!!!!
No worries mate, glad I could help - matt
You forgot to show us how to put them back on
old comment, but the way ive always seen it done is pur the bearing in its hole in the case, then you suck the crank in with another kind of tool.
How about the inner bearings on a twin?
You have to split the crank
God bless..from the old path.
Awesome 👍👈
Way you sout ?
Are you flue ?
where can i get that tools
Anywhere - bearing puller tool
Always try and leave nut on end of crankshaft when using pullers it helps stop the end spaying out
If you're splaying the end of a crank then you're doing it wrong, very wrong
@@dirtygarageguy doing it wrong is when you don't thread the nut on that's why you put the nut on and like mentioned in another comment lubricate the end of the crank and puller to eliminate friction
Do you have any idea how much force it would take to splay the end of a shaft? Do you want me to calculate the hoo stress for you?
@@dirtygarageguy so what your saying is every bearing always just pops off without any problems no I don't need you to calculate anything I've seen all I need to see thank you
The compressive strength of the end of a shaft is way way higher than the fit of a bearing. If you have seen failures that because some retard is making bad cranks. There's a specs for centres in shaft vs diameter. You won't be seeing failures on Japanese cranks, I know that much.
Ok but how do you put new bearings on?
Magic lol - are you actually asking?
The Workshop well I figured that if it was that difficult to get them off then it would be just as hard to get them on. If you don't want to do a video then that is fine but if you take them off I would guess you are going to put it back on.
Put bearings and crank in freezer over night. (They contract when frozen.) Oil the shaft well, drop bearing on shaft, big deep set socket placed on the bearing, and tap, tap, tap . . .
If you’re being serious, you either sweat it, tap it, or press it into the cases
Gotta warm the casing up and have the bearings frozen over night and they drop in or if you have a press that works to
Now do it with tools people actually have.
You mean bodge it?
Yeah. Whatever needs to be done to get it off without the tool.
scammer that bearing was half way off already lol
Scammer?
I hate this job in moto engineering. The most time consume
Your Birds are so annoying .Buy a BB gun Mate.
My birds? they're wild birds - not mine....
They're in your garden.... Possession is 9 tenth's of the law...
@@SootyHunt the sky above his premise is not under his jurisdiction, so not guilty.