Canon R5 - Maximize your keeper rate!
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- A video discussing the Canon R5 mirrorless camera and 3 factors that can maximize the number of sharp, high quality images right from the start. The 3 factors are shutter speed, image stabilization settings, and auto focus (AF) settings. Suggestions from a bird photographer.
Link to Images: ronaldbielefel...
Link to Images: ronaldbielefel...
Link to Images: ronaldbielefel...
Link to Images: ronaldbielefel...
Really appreciate the insight on how to improve my R5 image sharpness. I kept asking myself what I was doing wrong to have so many images not as sharp as I expected. Can't wait to encompass your suggestions!
I hope what I provided helps. Good luck and let me know.
Thank you for such an informative video. I have a lot of respect for your wealth of knowledge on cameras and their functionality.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for watching.
Retired newspaper photographer and very new to bird photography when I rented a new Nikon D810 to take to the beach instead of shooting my jack-of-all-trades Leica 114. I was expecting a magical upgrade experience based on conversations with friends and "Tubers." To my surprise my 114 produced more keepers. Excellent advice about getting to know your camera. I had come to know the 114 over two years and only had the D810 for the weekend. I'm hoping to move up to the R5 but know I won't be mastering it overnight.
Brilliant informative video thanks for taking the time to enlighten us who are trying to improve their photography
Practice? Keep shooting? Figure out your challenges? My 1Dx MK II is collecting dust. But the R5 took some time to get used to, but the effort paid off, amazing detail. Hit rate is better than ever with the R5. Now can we get a RF 600mm F4? I’ll probably have to sell my vehicle to get it, but I have a bike. LOL.
I am with you on selling my truck to get the RF 600 f/4. I am sure it is going to be the ultimate birding lens, but wow, it is going to be expensive.
Great video Ron and great explanation. Unfortunately, turning the IS off renders the IBIS useless for bird photography... Also, shooting at higher shutter speeds to increase sharpness means raising the ISO, which in turn deteriorates the image quality... We paid a pretty penny for this camera, for the IBIS, the more megapixels and better image quality... It is upsetting when looking at images and they are soft or have pixel shift. I guess you can't win this battle and we have to make the best of what we are given. Thanks for your advice.
IBIS si pretty useless for birds anyway. It doesnt work for large focal length lenses.
Thanks for a great video and great pointers! I am a beginner in bird photography and recently upgraded to R5 and RF. This will help me get started with fewer lessons to learn. Nothing like experience so here I go!
Thanks so much for the comment. They are always appreciated.
After first shootings and with the experience in mind of all the generations of the 1D/1DX: This camera is just amazing.
Thanks for the comment. Yep, it is pretty amazing. Great fun to shoot with and produces some great images.
Turn is off on the lens or the camera
Thanks Ron. I’ve enjoyed your videos. I’m coming from a 7DM2 with my 400mm prime lens. I’m considering the R5 and the 100-500 mm lens and before making the jump I wanted to educate myself on this setup. Keep the videos coming I’ve learned a lot already!
Hey, thanks so much for taking the time to comment.
I got the R5 recently and use it with the EF400mmf/5.6L, in P mode it will shoot at 1/400s which is that 400mm/1 thing. I found it better to shoot at 1/1000s or more recently 1/1250s (TV) for birds jumping from one branch to another or local flying and freezing the feathers as distinct from BIF.
I do find that eye/head tracking is awesome.
The other method that I haven’t full explored is the manual shutter and aperture and left the ISO move up and down. Also I’m getting my head around this rear focus button by separating the AF from the exposure control when pressing the shutter button.
This video was really helpful. I am using the R5 after shooting with the 5DS-R and 1DX, and am increasingly happy with the images I am getting.
Thanks so much for the comment. They are always appreciated.
As always, an excellent practical presentation. You’re very kind and generous to share your working experiences in such a genuine honest way.
Thanks so much for the comment. They are always appreciated. I enjoy sharing my experiences and hope they can help others achieve their goals.
Clear and concise Ron. Thanks a lot.
Hey, thanks so much. Always appreciate the comment.
Don't forget that the R5 don't necessarily use the mechanical shutter. That can cause blur as well.
I configured my R6 by mostly using Jan Wegener's R5 configuration with a few changes to make it work a bit more like my 7D2.
Ron, Thanks for taking the time to explain this..........it always helps.......take care. stay safe........
Hey, thanks for the comment. Always appreciated.
I switched from a 5dsr and 1DX2 to the R5 and 6 and completely agree about the pixel density and sharpness. I always thought the 1DX2 was sharper than the 5dsr, I haven’t compared the R5 and 6 enough to see a difference.
When it comes to IS and the IBIS I typically turn it off once I’m over 1/1000 shutter speed and have felt they were shaper than with the IS on.
Thanks so much for the comment. They are always appreciated.
I have the R6 but I watched your videos and always looking forward to it. Although I have the R6, I set up mine based on your wildlife/bird photography settings in your R5. Thanks again.
You are welcome and thanks so much for the comment. They are always appreciated.
Eyes wide open. I was using mode 1 on my 100-500... I'm a novice. Can't wait to try the settings out now. Off I go. And thanks!
Glad to help! Thanks so much for the comment. They are always appreciated.
TYSM ! This video gave me a HUGE breakthrough ! The thing that killed me, was that 1 out of however many... 10 ? 20 ? of my shots were eye bleeding sharp, so I KNEW that my gear was capable, but I was having to pour though SO many shots to find good sharp ones. But, as it turns out, it really is ALL about shutter speed ! I now shoot at a minimum of 1/4000th, but trying for 1/5000th, with OS OFF ! ...and getting WAY more tack sharp shots :) Interestingly, for my perched shots, especially of little birds, up close, I'm going the other extreme, and dropping to 1/320 all the way down to 1/40th, with just a monopod, and of course, with OS ON. Sure, a lot of those miss, but the ones that hit are amazing, PLUS, with perched birds, I can usually takes a couple hundred shots if needed, to ensure I get a few that are perfect ;)
Very good real world review of this camera! I’ve just ordered an R5 and accessories. Hoping I can improve my skills and picture quality. Subscribed!
Thanks so much for subscribing. Much appreciated.
I think there's a big issue with people comparing 20MP images to 40+MP images at 100% because if you take the same shot, from the same place, and you go to 1-1 pixels, you aren't looking at the same thing anymore. On the high res image you're looking at a smaller area.
Hi Ron. Sure enjoy the video's that you post. Got some good info out of your Canon R5 BIF setup guide, and also now on this video for getting more keepers. Only had my R5 for close to 2 weeks now, and feels like I'm starting to get use to it, coming from a 7Dii. I have also experienced more sharp focus for BIF with the IS turned off, especially birds flying overhead. When back to static birds, I turn the IS on. Will do some more testing on bird flybys with eye level panning, and see how the IS is behaving.
A quick one on the AF button setup, you have shown how to setup the 3 types of AF buttons. With the below setup no need to press the DOF preview button and the AF-ON button to get single point AF.
I set it up as follows, but using these 3 buttons:
AF-ON button - set to - Single Point focus (Change focus point with INFO button)
AE Lock button - set to - Middle group focus (Change focus point with INFO button)
AF Point Selection button - set to - Animal Eye detect (No INFO option here)
DOF preview Button - set to - AF Point Selection
Keep them videos coming
That is a great set up you put together. I will try this and see how it goes for me. Thanks so much for your comment.
With your insight i have my R6 performing like "i can't believe" how good my photos come out.... thank you for your videos and images..
I have the R6 also. The eye detection works excellent, but I find the single point AF hunts a lot for me. Do you get any hunting? Thanks
@@MrGflan not with the lens that i use. My friends told me the tamron EF and some Sigma EF has issues but my Canon EF work 100%.
@@j.kimmer1509 I use the 600mm version 2 from canon with IS mode 2. That may be the issue. Might have to turn IS off. Works great when panning fast moving birds but when I point it on the sky for a flying bird, the regular spot AF doesn’t work barely at all. So I have been just using eye detection. I’ll try a few things though and report back
@@MrGflan Interesting, good info...thank you for sharing
@@j.kimmer1509 my pleasure!! The camera definitely tracks side to side flying birds better than anything else I’ve used by far. It’s quite unbelievable actually.
thank you Sir, very clear and helpful
Glad you found it useful
Great video...I think this is going to help a lot of people. Your points are exactly what I've been figuring out over the past few months. IS OFF is critical anytime you can. For perched birds IBIS/IS is amazing but for flight I have it OFF all the time now. Back with my Canon DSLRs I usually keep IS in Mode 1 all the time even when panning and never had issues. The R5 is a different beast for sure.
Thanks so much for the comment. They are always appreciated. I am glad you find the video helpful.
Very interesting, thank you particularly on the stabilising and IBIS that’s very useful
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video Ron with some excellent advice as usual. My R5 is on order, expected next week, so I’m looking forward to putting your advice into action. Thank you.
Thanks so much for the comment. They are always appreciated.
A good list of things to try. I did have initial issues with focus in the beginning when I switched to single point I get better results. I will try these. Thank you!
Thanks so much for the comment. They are always appreciated.
Ron - excellent video and very sensible thoughts. I would like to add a few things. A lot of people coming from DSLR don't realize that the AF is fundamentally different on mirrorless. It is my opinion that if you are not using dual BBF you are not taking full advantage of what the AF offers. In complex scenes you need a way to get the AF in the 'Zone' before using the eye AF. The AF on mirrorless does not cycle through the entire range like we are accustomed to on DSLR. It requires a slightly different approach. Camera config is essential and users may have to take the time to get used to doing things differently - Canon or otherwise. Second, when we are talking an 5 series vs a 1 series despite the fact that the R5 has amazing AF the same principles apply. It is still a 5 series and the battery voltage does not allow it to move big glass like a 1 series body. This is mostly specific to big whites. Despite the fact the R5 AF can run algorithmic loops around a 1D series those coming from a 1D series have to be aware that they my have to work a little harder to get the most from the AF - focus limiters and the use of the focus preset button (if available) are two of many tools that can help with more accurate AF. Lastly and nothing to do with AF - THANK YOU for putting me onto the 3M camo material. If you ever want to put a video together about your approach to design and construction of a full coat I think many in your community would appreciate it. I've done the barrel on the 100-500 to replace the silly sock that the LensCoat comes with. I'd love to know your method for dealing with more complex areas. Thanks again!!
Steve, thanks for the additions. Very good information. I will work on getting the Mossy Oaks Graphics application video put together. Cheers, Ron
Granted that I shoot with an R6, but there seems to be an issue with dark birds not illuminated by a laser. It looks like the camera has problems with Cormorants in flight when the light is not splendid (the light is OK). The AF does not lock on the eye. Possibly because the bird is dark and the eyes does not pop. I see that the AF points is largely elsewhere than the eyes of the bird. If the light is VERY good, eye AF might work as expected (by me at least).
I shoot almost entirely portraits, always hand-held. I think the IBIS fooled me into thinking that the usual shutter speeds I would have used on previous cameras was still going to be a good idea, but think I actually need to increase my shutter speeds to deal with the higher pixel density. In the past, 1/(focal length) typically worked, but I'm starting to think that something like 1/(2.5 * focal length) is a better guideline. I was watching another pro shooter on RUclips who switched to an R5 and I noticed that he was using much faster shutter speeds than I would have expected. Now I know why. I usually shoot in Manual mode. I'm tempted to use Auto ISO and then lock the shutter speed at 2.5 times the focal length of my lens (or even faster) and just see what the results look like. I'm definitely not worried about noise with the R5.
Thanks for the helpful video.
Hey, thanks for the comment. Glad you found the video helpful.
Thanks Ron I was a 1DX x guys up to now... I am 65 and still can’t part with my old 1 Dx but I retired and said to my self that before I get to old I would love to get a top new Canon gear and also because one as to keep is brain going and learning a new technology is as good as learning a new language... By the way I am a French man from Quebec so please don’t pay attention to my spelling... got my new R5 a few weeks back along with a available RF 800mm is and still waiting for the RF 100-500mm and bin waiting for nearly 3 month’s... I am using my old first generation EF 500mm f/4 is and my EF 300mm f/2.8 is for now. I really love your advanced and this video was a real eyes openers for me... I just can’t get sharp images or very few ones with the R5... When reviewing my images after the shot the red focus dot is very rarely on the bird... WY ???
You don't specify what type of images you take most often (static birds/animals or action shots like birds in flight). For static type images your older 500 and 300 with IS on and set to mode 1 should do very well with the R5 based on my experience with the camera. Fast action is another matter. Your older lenses, if you are trying to use IS, will not produce good results very often, again from what I have personally experience. I suggest turning IS off for any fast action and rely on fast shutters speeds to give you a fudge factor for not panning exactly at the speed of the subject. I think you will find that the 800 f/11 and the 100-500 when you get it will do much better for you, but again keep IS turned off for action. Regarding the red focus indicator not being on the bird. If you are fast panning and you have IS on this can be the reason as the IBIS is moving the sensor and not keeping up with the panning motions you are making and thus the AF is also having a hard time staying on target. If you are seeing this with static shot I am not sure why that would happen. I am not seeing that issue in my personal experiences. I have found that if you don't give the IS/IBIS a chance to "Settle In" it will move around a bit and that may be one reason. I hope this helps you out a bit. Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography Sorry told you am french so I loss my idea in english sometime.. I am a all around guy but I mainly love action and bird in flight photography, thats why I got the R5 and also to carry less weight in field then my 1Dx.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Got you Ron for action I have to turn IS off on the old EF lens and also on The RF 800mm and 100-500mm that I now have but still was not getting that focus point on the bird in flight. I do winter birds at my place now as I been doing for many winter and they are just as fast and about the size of a Belted Kingfisher only not as skittish so I can get much closer to them as they fly down from trees to my feeders. I also realize that I must be over panning because trying to keep up with the bird as it rocket down from the perch. Would it help if I try shooting with the electronic shutter witch I have never try... because I am getting a lag in the view finder when panning. Also would you used a tripod with the old EF and the RF as well or and free , I usually shoot at 3,200 to 5,000 of sec for those small birds at f/3.5 to f/4 on the old EF lens but with the news RF lens I have less choice ???
By the way really appreciated you video and great tips on action birds in flight shooting Ron, A very Big THANK'S and stay safe out there.
@@Galo1955 I would use Electronic shutter. It is all I use for BIF. I would hand hold if you can rather than use a tripod. I shoot as high a shutter speed as the light will allow up to 1/8000s. I increase the ISO as needed up to about 5000. Keep "Hight ISO Noise Reduction" at standard setting, it helps without reducing IQ much at all. If necessary I use Topaz DeNoise to reduce noise in the image, but overall R5 handles noise well at higher ISO settings. Cheers.
@@whistlingwingsphotography I will follow your advices Ron , hopefully I will get used to the new technology... The RF 800mm is is giving me fantastic stills shots in great light condition, but I have yet to see a sharp image with the RF 100-500 mm f/4.5-7.1 is ? Thanks for all your help Ron.
Thanks for this. Good info!
You bet!
I come from a relatively lowly (but highly loved!) 80D to the R5, and I’ve had some image problems... But gradually this has got better through perseverance. Your comments and very helpful video here has been very helpful, thanks. All advice makes sense and a lot of is, at least to me, not obvious or easily understood unless explained in great detail, as you have done. Thanks again.
Thanks so much for the comment. They are always appreciated. I am glad you found the video helpful.
would love if you mixed in some photos to mix this up
Thank you! I hope to get some light soon and try turning it off. I've been shooting owls and birds in flight and so many ... most all ... flight images are soft. I am fairly close and shutter speed 2000 and higher and they are blurry. I keep working on techniques without much success. Question: if I turn off IS on the lens does the IBIS stop internally also, you said they work in conjunction.
Yes, if you turn the IS off on the lens the IBIS is also turned off. when using IS lenses all control over IBIS is via the lens IS related switches. If you use a non-IS lens a menu item appears in the camera where you can turn IBIS on or off. Hope this helps and thanks for the comment. Good shooting to you!
So ON POINT... the EOS 90D, 32mp on an APSC sensor creates a massive pixel density difference that many have struggled with. Needs better glass (resolving power), and higher shutter speeds. I've been debating the R5 vs R6 the past month... R6 shares its sensor and processor w/ the 1DXmk3 so the thinking was go in that direction. Then, I watched your R5 coverage and some others on the R5 (resolution being a motivator) - now thinking more. (I own and shoot the 90D in addition to the 5Dmk4 - the 90D is far less forgiving as you indicated for high pixel-density sensors).... I shoot "flying things" but 95% of my stuff is AVIATION so I am shooting fast-moving fighter jets but those targets are far bigger than BIF (which has to be harder I'm sure)... flight paths of an aircraft are far more predictable than wild birds.
Thanks for the comment
thank you. i'm beginning to feel bad about my R5, am thinking something's wrong with the camera and my images from the RF100-5-- is not so good...there's a smear image that appears in place of a bokeh...but i'll try and observe my cam and lens settings again...i'll check that mode 1 and IS off with stable subjects..trying to understand what you said...thanks
If your camera's and lens' firmware are up to date. Shoot Mode 1 for static subjects, and mode 2 panning with moving subjects. If you are shooting fast shutter speeds such as 1/2000s or more, then you can turn IS off for all shots unless you like to have the stabilized viewfinder you get with keeping IS on.
Thank you very much
Hi Ron, Do you observe the phenomena where rf 100-500 get sharp images if the object is within about 30 feet but very soft image when shooting far away subjects?
I've noticed that 100%
I would love if you could do a video addressing the AF problems many if us are having with the R5. using spot focus even will at times just not focus….and you lose the shot because by time you find something that it will focus on and then back to the bird, its gone,….it is so random too….i get that mirrorless is somewhat different but to me i shoukd never have to focus on the tree trunk and then bring it up to the bird to get it to focus on the bird…..i should be able to see a bright red cardinal sitting on a branch….press automatic focus button and it will focus immediatly on it like every other canon camera I have ever used. The R5 is the only one that does this…..on my second R5 and it does the exact same thing……please Help if you can no one else has been able to including canon themselves…..they just say they cant duplicate the problem….many of my fellow photographers who now have the R5 have had the same issue and three of us now were able to get new R5 after numerous times of sending them into Canon for the same AF issue…..all three of us have the same issue again woth the brand new R5s we just got…..this is in sane and so frustrating……can you help us???
There are many factors that can affect AF performance as I am sure you know. Lighting, lens being used, type of vegetation, etc around/near the subject, contrast of the subject, size of the subject in the frame, and on and on. Yes, mirrorless cameras are different than DSLRs; the AF system included and they are more prone to what you are describing. I have had instances like you describe, but it does not happen often. That being said I have a certain way I shoot and that involves pre-focusing at the general distance I expect the bird/subject to be, only starting AF initiation, whether it be half press of the shutter button or a back button, when I have the bird's head or the bird in the center of the frame (or very near to it) and then recomposing if necessary, making sure my exposure is not too dark as it seems the amount of light reaching the sensor makes a difference in AF performance, and having spot AF set to one of the back buttons incase I need it quickly because the subject I am wanting to focus on happens to be way out of focus when I first try to gain focus. I also use only Canon lenses at this point. 100-500 or 600 f/4 for the most part. Third party lenses may have more issues, but I have not had enough experience the say Sigma lenses on the R5 to be able to lend any opinion on that potential issue. The aforementioned is what I do day in and day out and I don't have the level of issues you have described with the AF system getting focus. I have two R5s and they both perform the same way for me. There are other settings that can affect this situation as well, but I would have to have your camera in my hands set up the way you are shooting to be able to determine if it is acting the way mine act AF-wise. I am not sure I helped at all, but the only thing else I can say right now is the R5 has a learning curve and it did take me a bit to adjust to its idiosyncrasies. Now that I have, I am shooting pretty much shooting without thinking much and getting great results under all sorts of conditions.
Good advice!
Thanks so much for the comment. They are always appreciated.
I’ve gone from 5dsr and 1dxii to the R5, I’m blown away, with ef300 2.8ii and ef600 f4ii it’s outstanding, where will the “RF big whites” take us, can’t wait to try, thanks for the tips great video 👍
Thanks so much for the comment. I too am looking forward to the RF 600mm. It should be outstanding.
I approached you with the same issue back in October 2020. After my first shoot with the R5, I wasn't happy. What was all the hype about? Then you told me what you just covered in this video. Since then, my images have improved. The R5 is indeed a great camera.
I'm so glad you are liking the R5. Yep, it takes some getting used to, but once you get the feel for the camera it really produces some stellar images. Thanks so much for the update.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thank you for your advice.
It can be difficult to do single point focus on a small bird. I feel that the point should be smaller. If say, you have a small bird like a stonechat on a post in the distance, the single point focus will cover much more than the bird and may miss focus.
I would say if the bird is less than the size of a focus point it's too far away to take the shot.
If the bird is that small in the frame it really does not matter what AF method you use it will be difficult to determine if the AF is getting an accurate lock on the subject. For birds really small in the frame I would use spot AF and try my best to put it on the bird.
What are your R5 setting please
Two constructive points. First for most people a 600 f/4 iii and 100-500 rf lens are not ordinary and represent more than $15k worth of glass. For true birders they represent top end aspirations. Also, the three major points of the video could have been presented more succinctly.
Thanks for the comment. Regarding first point, there is a great difference between birders and bird photographers and among bird photographers I have guided lens like the 600 f/4 and a lens in the range of 100-400 or 100-500 is very common and typical. With regards to my conversational style of presenting information, it is what I like to do and given I generally get a lot of positive comments for my presentation style and my likes far outweigh my dislikes I think I will continue to present my videos as I am comfortable doing. I am not trying to be fancy. I am just a professional bird photographer trying to share information that I think might help some people and to be honest I don't have time to do take after take of a video to get it perfect. And before you say or think that I cannot take constructive criticism, my other professional career as a avian research biologist who publishes peer-reviewed technical papers is based on such criticism. So, I can and have taken yours. After consideration, I will continue to go with my "loose" conversational style. Thanks again for your comment.
Could it also be that the Diffraction Limiting is at a lower F/stop on the R5? The Diffraction limit is stated as f6.7 and a 1DXIII is f.10.6. So if people are stopping down then it will be softer at the same aperture on the R5 than the previous camera with a larger physical pixel size if your stopping down to say f.11
Thanx Ron. You've really opened my eyes on a number of fronts as I contemplate upgrading my camera to R5 from 7DII and 1D-X. Your suggestion to try to turn IS off with higher shutter speeds is something I'll definitely try. What I'd like to ask is whether the in body stabilization and in lens stabilization on R5 are additive. i.e. is there more affect using both systems simultaneously than if I just used the in body stab and lens stab off.
Ken, thanks for the comment. For lenses with IS the IBIS and IS work together and are controlled by the IS switches on the lens. They cannot be used separately. So, you cannot just use the IS on the lens by turning the IBIS off, or the other way around. If you use a lens that does not have IS then the IBIS in the camera takes over and there is then a menu item available in the camera to turn IBIS on and off. This menu item literally disappears when you have a lens with IS attached to the camera. I will tell you that the overall image stabilization achievable with the IS/IBIS combination is amazing. I have gotten tack sharp images hand holding perched birds at 1/20s of a second using electronic shutter to remove shutter shock.
What plate are you using on the 100-500?
Thanks very much great info. I am playing with bird movies .very interesting and I love it. I have the R5 set up so on the m-fn button I can instantly change from movie to stills mode. and the movie mode set to 60 frames a second and can slow it down in editing. And surprisingly in crop mode it is an amazing zoom with the 100-500 lens and very sharp. Thanks once again .I will try your suggestion to turn off the ibis for panning. have been using the mode 1 on the lens and has been ok even with panning but not perfect. Prem.
Thanks for adding your thoughts. Always appreciated.
Another great video! When you use higher shutter speed do you prefer to increase exposure in Lightroom or increase ISO and use DeNoiseAI?
I have found the noise on the R5 to be OKAY up to ISO 5000 as long as you don’t need to crop a lot. Thus, I tend to increase ISO. Then if needed. I use DeNoise as it does a great job most of the time at dealing with any noise.
Excellent video. Definitely agree that there is a learning curve with the r5 as compared from my 5 d mark iv. You made a comment that with very shutter speeds turn off IS ( assuming no panning here). But when I had called canon they told me that IS has no effect with high shutter speeds So I’m a little confused. Did u find your hit rates higher with IS off and using high shutter speeds? I usually use single point or 4 point AF if eye detect can’t focus.
Thanks so much for the comment. I turn IS/IBIS off when shooting panning type action shots, period. I have found my hit rate for tack sharp shots is higher with the IS/IBIS off.
The exception to this is if doing extreme fast panning, then it seems I can overwhelm any affect of the IS/IBIS. For static subjects I love the IS/IBIS set to mode 1 or on my 800 f/11 just set to on.
So if you are shooting sports like motor sports or football, ice hockey, etc would you recommend IS off Unless of course panning sport cars/bikes
@@michaellekas27 Yep, for now. The Mode 2 and 3 IS/IBIS is getting better with each firmware update. So, at some point Canon may have it dialed it to a point where it works without cause issues from time to time.
@@whistlingwingsphotography thank you. Love your videos. Very informative. Will try your recommendation. I used to have IS off at high shutter speeds, but will go back. Thank u again
Thanks for the tips. I was having sharpness issues with my R5 with Birds in Flight with my 600 f4 II. Last 2 shoots I turned off the IS and it made a huge difference. I'm leaving it on for relatively stationary subjects. Also keeping my shutter speeds over 1/3000s if possible is helping.
Awesome, so glad you are having better luck getting sharp images.
@@whistlingwingsphotography So just turn off the IS on the lens for BIF and keep shutter speeds high? What about the In Body Stabilization? Does that need to be shut off in the camera body settings somehow?
Actually, you answered my question in the other comments. Sorry for the redundancy and thanks for the great tips!
@@auravsingh Nope. When you use lenses with IS all the control of the IBIS is via the lens switches. When IS is OFF the IBIS is off. There is no way to use IBIS without IS or the other way around. When you use non-IS lenses an IBIS menu item becomes available to you to turn IBIS on or off.
You briefly mentioned zebras in an earlier video. Do you have a video that explains that in more detail. Some
people believe thatSony does a better job on exposure.What am . I missing on Canon? Thanks for the hints in this video. Increasing shutter speed is the big one for me.
.
Not yet, but I have a couple I am working on. Please stay tuned and thanks for the comment.
Ron- your suggestions seem so counter-intuitive. You recommend to turn IBIS/IS off for a static subject,
which is when you least need it. But when panning and following a moving bird your recommendation is
to turn them off, when you would think they would be most needed. I've just got my R5 and need to
try your recommendations for myself. Just seems strange. Have you contacted Canon about this issue?
When shooting static I use Mode 1 quite a bit especially when you are shooting slow shutter speeds. I don't think turning IS/IBIS off when shooting action such as BIF is counter-intuitive at all. When shooting action you generally are shooting high shutter speeds over 1/1000s and the shutter speed takes care of "stabilizing" the image. Given these high shutter speeds you need IS/IBIS less. Thus, when shooting BIF or other action I turn IS/IBIS off. The IS/IBIS is so strong (has so much power to correct movement) now with the R5 that it seems any poor panning technique and you get less than sharp images more than I would like. When I turn IS/IBIS off I get what I am looking for with regards to sharp images. Nothing to contact Canon about IMO. It is just the way the system with IBIS works. Just have to adjust.
Another great video Ron! However, I'm slightly confused because on the one hand you're saying turn IS off and then a few minutes later you say that the combination of IS and IBIS is powerful such that you were able to shoot at 1/20th sec (on tripod). I think I've taken from this that for BIF then turn IS off and for static birds, turn it on. Please can you clarify? Cheers Roger
That is exactly right. Turn it off for BIF and turn it on for static work. However, since I did this video a few firmware updates have been put out for the R5 and now the IS works better for BIF as well. I have been shooting Mode 2 for birds in flight and it has worked well for me. I would make sure you are up to date on your firmware in your R5 and then try Mode 2 for BIF.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks Ron. Yes, I'm already on Version 1.6 Firmware. For me, I've nearly always used Mode 1 on my EF 100-400mm MkII lens but certainly not tried Mode 2 since I got the R5 earlier this year. I'll experiment next time I go out. Cheers!
Great video and thanks for sharing your advice. Like others I have come from a 1DX2 and loving the R5 experience. I actually shoot with the Canon 200-400m f4 but finding it so hard to travel with. I'm wondering how the 100-500mm stacks up as an alternative for this lens. It's not ever compared in reviews because of the price difference and I guess the more obvious comparison lens (the 100-400mm), but I'm looking for a lighter solution that still gives pro results for large prints.
IQ of the 100-500 is great naked and with a 1.4x TC. It is very slow compared to the 200-400, so that is a limitation to definitely be aware of. Whether the 100-500 will do what you need it to is such a personal thing there is no way I can speak to that. Overall, if you can use the 100-500 within its limitation I think you would be very happy with it. The IS/IBIS is outstanding.
Really enjoyed the presentation. But I was swept away with striking beauty (should say splendor?) of your home's interior. Is your wife moving you out? Preparing for a garage sale? Share with the class. We want to know.
Great vid, great info and well presented as always buddy! Loving my R5 jut cant use my EF lenses at the mo as theres a lens mount shortage in the UK! ive been waiting 4 months and it looks like i wont get one till next month now 😖.....
Sorry for your wait, I know it can be really frustrating. As always thanks for the comment.
Buy a Viltrox from Amazon
@@Telboypen Cheers buddy, had one turn up now, i might grab one of those though as back up!!
Do you find using the setting of " shoot only when have focus" being ignored value; which would reduce out of focus shots in a series set. So you only see the best of the shots focused on the right area.
I do not like to prioritize focus too much. It throws me off when the camera does not shoot when I want it to because it thinks the subject is not in focus. Not sure this makes sense, but not sure I can explain it better.
Hi Ron
I too love the R5 but the greatest difficulty I have is with focusing on birds flying against the sky and grabbing focus when they are in the distance. I see the bird in the view finder and it vanished, against the water or land there are no problems. What am I doing wrong?
Anil
Now sure what is happening. I would have to see for myself what exactly you are experiencing. Sorry I could not be of more help.
Thank You for the video. Lately i tried to get some animal and birds photos. I started with catching deers at long distance and have to admit that I was disapointed with the sharpness of the deers from around 100-120m. I zoomed them at 1:1 In the lightroom. I was even wondering if my lens Sigma 150-600mm C is good enough. I went for Bird Photography and starter with f5.5-6.3 and shutter speed 1/1600s-1/2500s. Now I took photos with 1/4000s-1/5000s and around f8-f9 and have more keepers but still a lot of not so sharp images on 1:1 preview. Im now looking for a gimbal because handheld can cause also this situation.
Just for your information. I have the Sigma 150-600mm Sport and I have not been impressed with the sharpness of this lens or the AF performance on the R5.
@@whistlingwingsphotography is the RF 100-500mm much better? I have still Canon 5d4 and Sony A73 so the Sigma is a versatile lens for all cameras. I tested Canon 70-200L f2.8 IS II with R5 and this also had problems on distance. On close photo I got an amazing sharpness. With Sigma is the same story. Wonder if gimbal like sirui ph20 will help In getting more sharp images.
Hi Ron,
Your videos are brilliant and have really helped me hit the ground running with the new body. So far I have been loving the R5 and the adapted 100-400 ii for mammal photography. I have noticed that from shutter speeds below 1/100 the IS doesn't work as well as I hoped. I also shoot the 45 MP Nikon D850 and 200-500 lens and my sharp frame rate at comparable shutter speeds (say 1/60s) is noticeably higher percentage wise on the Nikon. That is a heavier lens with a body that has mechanical shutter and no IBIS. I have a feeling there is some wonky adverse "interaction effect" of the IBIS with the 100-400 ii on the R5 at these shutter speeds as it should be even better since I am shooting electronic shutter and have IBIS. Do you have any thoughts on this matter? I use lens IS mode 1 primarily as I do portraiture.
Thanks,
Shrav
I think you are on the right track with the IBIS/IS and how it works on the 100-400 II. I have that lens and the RF 100-500. The latter is much better for very slow shutter speeds, especially when set to mode 1. I have stopped using my 100-400 II because it has been inconsistent with regards to image stabilization. Also, make sure your R5 has firmware 1.4.0 as the latest firmware really improved the IS/IBIS performance in all IS modes.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks a bunch Ron - I got that update right away after watching your video and those of others. I also updated the lens firmware on the 100-400 ii. I went with the 100-400 ii since I got a great deal on one and I like the wider aperture. I hope that Canon can improve this mode 1 IS issue with the R5 through lens or body firmware updates. Thanks again for your informative, no nonsense videos!
thank you for making the videos, Can you comment on what cf express card and reader you use? Im thinking of taking the plunge with the R5. Enjoying your videos.
I am using the new Angelbird 256gb cards and like them. For the reader I am using the Unitex reader you can get on Amazon.
@@whistlingwingsphotography I’ve never had a cf express card and want to make sure I get a reliable one. Does it work well for 8k video short clips? I will look at that one. Thanks for a quick reply, looking forward to your next video.
Excellent video and very informative. When taking BIF what af method do you recommend? Animal eye AF tracking or one of the others? Thanks again.
I am using the animal eye detect with tracking for over 90% of my bird photography now both BIF and static. It really is the best way to go. Be sure to turn of IS/IBIS when shooting BIF no matter what shutter speed you are using. I do use spot AF when I need to be really precise on bird, but that is rare for me.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks appreciate the reply
For clarification - if you are shooting bif with relatively uniform panning motion would you turn off the IBIS and keep the lens IS on "2" or would you turn both off? Also - thanks for soooo many fantastic R5 videos - this has really helped me get started with the amazing new camera. I am also "new" to bif photography because I simply did not have the necessary equipment to make it possible to get decent shots until now - fingers crossed.
If you are using a lens with IS, there is no way to turn off IBIS and leave IS turned on. All image stabilization control is via the switches on the lens when using lenses with IS. If you use a lens that does not have IS then a camera-based menu item becomes available where you can control IBIS. If you are shooting anything, including birds, with a smooth panning motion using Mode 2 setting on the lens can be helpful. However, if you do so and find your images are soft and can't figure out why try turning IS on the lens to off. If you are shooting fast enough shutter speeds you might get better results with IS off.
@@whistlingwingsphotography thanks! I have the 100-400 II but didn't realize if I turn off the lens IS (which I don't normally do) that the IBIS would also turn off. So I will follow your advice - try Mode 2 for panning and see how that works. As I said I'm new to BIF photography anyway so won't have much to compare to but I am already thrilled with the camera/lens combo (I have the 1.4X on order). I'm very grateful for your expertise AND inspiring photos.
@@ourniche My pleasure. Good luck and keep in touch.
Only just got my R5 after 5 month waiting list!!!!! I am used to BIF photography but wondered if you could advise me on AF. I appreciate the Animal eye AF and you have explained it very well. As I understand it, it works well if the bird is showing enough of the eye so on close to medium shots it would be my option. However if you are shooting BIF that are a reasonable distance away, say 500ft, which AF modes would you recommend, Expand AF or Zone AF etc? Many thanks Ian (UK)
I would give Eye AF a try even at longer distances. It works pretty well. However, I also use Zone AF and if I am tracking birds that are making a lot of turns and I have to lead them into those turns I use the horizontally expanded Zone AF. If the situation is really challenging and the Zone is not doing what I want I go back to my old standby, single point and it is then my job to keep it on the bird. That never fails.
Thanks Ron. I am struggling a bit with a lag in my viewfinder when I put the camera to my eye. The viewfinder needs to wake up and in that half second I can lose the bird in my frame. By the time Iocate the bird, it is out of position and the shot has been lost. With really fast moving subjects that lag has been a source of frustration for me.
I have gotten into the habit of half pressing the shutter button while bringing the camera up. The VF is on when it gets to my eye.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks Ron. Lots of little things to learn with this new mirrorless technology but I am slowing getting better with practice.
Where do you shoot these awesome shots with the birds fishing?
Also is the R5 more suited for photography or video do you think?
I go to wildlife refuges, parks with ponds, lakes, reservoirs, farm irrigation canals, etc. Basically, anywhere there is water with fish birds will be there.
I think the R5 is good at both. I do not shoot much video at this time except for short clips, but it works great and I can see myself using it for more video in the near future.
Ron, I have the R6 and I love it. I'm wanting the clarity in my photos where the eyes are crystal clear. My question is do you get the similar clarity with your R5/100-500mm that you get with your R5/600mm F/4? Because the price for the Canon 600mm F/4 I could by the R5/100-500 if the image quality is similar. I mainly shoot backyard birding. Thanks your reply would be greatly appreciated. I'm a subscriber and I love all the info I receive on your channel as well as your photos.
The image quality from the 100-500 with and without the 1.4x TC rivals what you get from the 600 f/4. I am using the 100-500 more and more for its flexibility in focal length and portability.
@@whistlingwingsphotography thank you so much for answering my question. I’m renting the R5 abd the 100-500mm, will have them this week for a week. This will also allow me to try it on my R6 as well. I’ve been shooting with the 5DS to get familiar with the high mega pixels. Again thanks!
R5 or R6, how is the focusing with rf100-500 with 1.4 or 2.0 teleconverter? Is it slower focusing ?!
For the R5 you don't really see much of a slow down with the 1.4xTC. A bit more with the 2.0x.
Thank you for your thoughts. Which af case do you use for your flying / sitting bird photos? Thx. Ps I got an r6 in combination with a 100-400 I and 1.4 iii for birding
I using Case 2 modified a bit. I have the Tracking Sensitivity set all the way to the negative side and the Accel/Deccel set to one notch above 0.
Thx alot
Question: if you are using compressed raw on the R5 (like you said on an earlier R5 video), aren't you getting 22.5mp rather than 45mp?
Nope, the resolution of the images is the same CRAW or full RAW. Only the size of the files on card/disc is reduced. I and many others have compared the quality and malleability of the two types of files and there is basically no difference that anyone would notice.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Excellent. Appreciate you taking the time to get back to me. Pat
@@patthompson1253 My pleasure.
Great Video! I am using the Canon EOS R5 with a Canon 600 MM IS II typically with the 1.4 extender, but sometimes without and sometimes with a 2X extender. I love it so far, but I haven't seriously attempted birds in flight yet. I always use a tripod, but I thought that I was supposed to turn off IS when using a tripod. Is this not true? Is it different with IBIS?
If you are using a tripod to capture static subjects and are locking everything down with a ball head etc then I would turn IBIS/IS off. If you are using a tripod for action with a gimbal type head and thus there is vibration and movement I would turn IBIS/IS on to Mode 1 if you are shooting static subjects such as perched birds. If you are panning with flying birds from a tripod then I would turn IBIS/IS off, especially if you are shooting high SS such as 1/1000s or higher.
@@whistlingwingsphotography That's the information I was looking for. Your video had answer a lot of my concern migrating from 7Dii to the R5. My keeper rate had improving. Should I use Mode 3 for BIF?
Hi there thanks for the video. So on a tripod, when shutter speed is more than 1000 you suggest turn off the IS on the lens and have the IBIS still enabled right? Thanks just need clarification. And when you mentioned for static bird on a tripod, 1/20 shutter that is on mode 1 it means IS in the lens is ON correct? Is it safe to say that if you shoot lower than 1000 a second shutter speed better to turn IS on? Thanks and I can’t wait to try these. I will be more watchful of my IS modes from now on.
The IS work saparately if you use ef len on rf body, so my recomendation is turn IS on the len off when using shutter speed 1000 plus, and live IBIS on. If you use rf len on rf body, they both work together. If you turn off IS on the len, IBIS is also off automaticly, so you should live it on at all time even with hight shutter speed.
If you are using a lens with IS, then both IS and IBIS are controlled via the the switches on the lens. The only time there is control of IBIS via the camera's menu is if you are using an EF lens that does not have IS. If I am at 1/1000s or more I turn IS on the lens off. I really am only using IBIS/IS when I am shooting slow shutter speeds for static subjects. I do use IBIS/IS on mode 1 when I am shooting higher SS than 1/1000s if I am shooting long focal lengths say 840 to 2100mm at static subjects.
Turn off IS when on a tripod unless it is a gimbal (moving) head. If EF or RF lens has IS, you turn it off via lens. If EF or RF lens with no IS, you turn it off via IBIS menu in camera.
Turning off IS when shutter speed 1/1000 or higher is for hand held or gimbal head.
@@newdayinspirations5792 Yep.
When you said to try turning off stabilization did you mean in the R5 or the lens that you are using or both?
With the R5 if your lens has IS then all the control is via the lens, there is no way to turn it off in camera. If you use a lens without IS then you have a menu item that control the IBIS. Thanks so much for the comment. They are always appreciated.
I had the same question so thank you for the answer. I will try the next time I go out shooting.
The pixel density spread on the R5 has me wondering why the R6, with a tighter pixel density (and less expensive) might be a better choice for me. I understand the cropping limitations but those are choices some have to make. But this leads to a question.
Has a limit been reached on full frame sensors with the number of MPs it can handle? Would a Medium Format sensor be a better option for handling high MPs cameras?
With medium format you start having other kind of issues; eg DoF, slow AF, heavier and shorter and slower glass. There is always a trade off, no free lunch :-))
@@dimitristsagdis7340 I'm not suggesting MF exactly. I'm suggesting a new format not yet developed, something in between MF and full frame format.
@@sfink16 Well the sensor in the Pentax 645Z and the Fuji GFX bodies is already a crop medium format sensor.
And with choice of a R5 and R6 I think it depends on what you do with your pictures, print really big or just for online showing and do you need to crop most of your shots or can you fill the frame. I have both and times I know I will not have to crop and will just be putting shots on line I'll use the R6.
@@sfink16 Tnx for the explanation but the same issues I mentioned will apply. Also keep in mind that MF is not a single size but a family of sizes larger than 35 but smaller than large. So the Fuji GFX sensors are in this family only marginally larger than the 35nm and the smallest in the MF family. Some even argue they are not true MF and the same difficulties apply.
@@kilohotel6750 Thanks for the reply and explanation! I can't justify buying both cameras however.
Great video, exactly what I was hoping for. I've upgraded from a 5d3 to r5 and at the same time am trying to learn how to shoot birds. I've had some subpar results so far, but this gives me several new things to try. One thing you mentioned was bumping up iso, how far would you say you'd raise it on a nice sunny day? That's one thing I am having a hard time figuring out. Thanks again for sharing, I've been enjoying your content since I've decided I want to learn to shoot birds!
I will shoot at ISO 800 or even 1000, maybe more, on a bright day if my goal is to get my SS up to say 1/8000s. Some people are reluctant to shoot at really high SS for some reason, but if the situation calls for it I do it. Small birds in flight or if water splashes are involved are some examples.
18:30 i concur.
Damn Canon beat the Sony A9ii for animal eye tracking.
Good news is Sony A1 has great animal eye tracking.
Hope Sony act fast and implement it in a new camera to beat Canon 7Dmk2 type camera that is a striped down version for birders.
Its a volume seller for Canon. Sony needs to beat it to the punch. Sony has all the tools now.
Yep. I think Sony and Canon will be leap-frogging each other for years to come as technology continues to move forward. To me it is great to see two companies push each other. All the better for us.
If you don't adapt to your tools you never get the best grafts.
You shouldn't drive a AMG in the same mode then you drive a Jeep as well.
Gift me the lens
Brilliant informative video thanks for taking the time to enlighten us who are trying to improve their photography
You are welcome and thanks for the comment