Just a quick suggestion. Being an auto painter I would suggest using a grease and wax remover rather than lacquer thinner or acetone. These both are petroleum based and and do have oils in them. The grease and wax remover will prepare the material more cleanly. Thanks for your videos.
Bingo, being a contractor I say the same. I have tried them all and Krud Kutter is the safest most effective I have found. Wipes clean, you can use it on food prep surfaces but it cleans better than TSP.
When dithering, the dots that make up the “lighter” area are black too so they will use the same percentage power as the larger black area in the letter S. The reason it doesn’t burn down to the white of the tile is that it ramps the laser power up and down as it enters into a black area of the image and it doesn’t have time enough to ramp all the way up to max power, so it doesn’t cut far enough. There are white spots in the areas where several dither dots are close enough together for the ramp to reach closer to the peak. So if you want to make sure it is red and only red you should not use dithering. Instead you could get away with grayscale aka passthrough, but you’d have to guess and test the percentages. A more sure way to control the values is to split the bitmap into different images and set them up separately in lightburn with the values from the test tile for each layer.
Could you do it as a two tone image where a grey tone is a consistent reduced power and then the black is a higher power setting? Or could you do it as a second pass on the "black" section to burn all the way through the paint?
Three years ago I know, but I was so impressed with your comment on PPE, your 20 years from now self is going to reap the benefits of that, just like I reaped the whirlwind ignoring it. A point to consider is if you are worried about absorbing something through your skin, as you should be, you need to consider the fumes, your eyes will soak stuff up much faster than your skin, and do much more damage over time. Your painting outside in a breeze is huge when added up over time.
Thanks for an amazing video! You do great learning novices like me new stuff! 🤓 appreciate that you take your time and show all steps ❤️ Keep u the good work 💪🙌
I'm learning more every day, thank you. I actually like the texture you get from the reaction of the clearcoat over the paint. What I did was let it dry, run the air bubbles out of it and shoot another coat and voila !! a textured (by accident) finish.
Great video. I'm retired and don't want to mess with paint and acetone. Make sure to post a vid when they come out with an easier way to change color.😁
Oh God..This is awesome..You have open my mind..I use my dioda laser only on wood and leather..Now I will try on tile like you do..thanks for new idea..
One of the best explanation videos I have seen using this laser. Really great detail for people starting out and you don't over complicate your instructions. Just subscribed to your channel. Cheers.
excellent explanation on how to use the test tiles. new to this and this is best explanation I have watched because I actually understood what was going on with the colors. thanks
I need to check that out, but as other ppl did - so with removal of the paint with acetone after engraving. I already had a great effects just with white spray
*Great videos Jim!* Seems we have a lot of the same content! Hey, to fix your screen, go to Settings --> Toolbar Icon Size and scrub left with the slider. Love your channel!
I have an ORTUR Master 2 + 20W Diode unit and want to replace that with a NEJE 30W Diode laser. That by all accounts is much more Powerful and lasts many times longer. The problem for a newby and someone that is mentally challenged ( electrically ) is how to wire the NEJE to the ORTUR. I know that others out there have the same problem but have not seen any solutions to this. Oh and keep producing those awesome videos, I look forward to each new output that covers something different. Thank
Great information. My Ortur is on order so I am out here in youtube land trying to soak up all this information and I know i will be watching this video again for sure. Great information.
I put a very light pencil mark x in the center of my tile, position the laser in the center of the graphic, fire and square the tile to the work surface.
I have had my 60 watt CO2 laser for over a year. I have done these tiles with 1 color. I have never tried more than 1 color. I am going to do that this week end. And I have only used the free RDWorks. I will look at Light Burn as well.
Hey Jim, watched this video numerous times and I was wondering if you could use more color layers on one tile for different color effects? Like a white tile with black, gold and red, is that something that would work? Different power levels may produce different colors. Keep up the great work and love your videos.
This is so awesome. I’m going to buy a laser engraver as a gift for my sisters. They’re so excited. Something I noticed that works better for me, is when I spray the paint, I firmly hold the button rather than pressing it multiple times during the coloring of the tile. Thank you!!
A lot of demo videos leave a lot to be desired, this was a joy to watch. I will certainly be getting myself an Ortur Master 2 20W very soon and look forwards to more videos. Liked and subscribed.
Have you tried mod podge? It’s a sealer as well, you can seal the tile and then spray the acrylic clear if the tile is sticky from the mod podge. My wife has transferred photos onto 4x4 tiles using mod podge and then I would spray with an acrylic sealer.
Another informative video Jim. Picked up one of these lasers after having seen Garret on one of your videos with the hulk tile. Been doing the permanent tiles with some old family photos. Really amazing. Keep up the great job with the 3D printers and now the laser.
Wow, this is indeed a great tutorial that made me amazed there are no limits. You are a great speaker. Very clear and easy to follow process, and right to the point. These are the kind of videos that I enjoy most. Keep up the good work. I am now a happy subscriber. Enjoy your holidays.
Wonderful tutorial but if I try with your test board,there isn't nothing on the tile I have to push up to1200mm/min 75%... I have the same laser and a good focus with microspope. Can you help me?
In case anyone out there is having problems with peeling, bubbling or cracking paint Rustoleum support has told me it takes 2 weeks for your paint to cure completely before you should paint over it or clear coat. Just an FYI I learned the hard way. Montana paints is an acrylic paint that cures in 24 hours if you need an alternative.
Just got finished watching your video which was great. I noticed you having some problems with the paint pulling from the tile. It might be caused from the tile being non porous. So when your clear starts drying it pulls some of the paint from the tile surface. One idea If I might suggest would be to sand the tile to rough the surface allowing the paint somethig to grab ahold of.They also now make a product called slick stick by dixie bell.This also allows the paint to something to grab to. Down side is the exrta expense.Sand papers alot cheaper. Just a thought. Looking forward to more videos
This is a great video and has helped me a lot with my own tile burning. However, there are two things. First, the lines in the burn test are at the default 6000 mm/min, which jiggles the crap out of my table (things have fallen off). Second, the "gray" area is supposed to be dots burned at the maximum power set, in your case 30. Shouldn't that have resulted in a bunch of white dots instead of the red? I did notice there are some white spots. Is there any way to know how much to compensate for the apparent loss of power (or whatever it is) that results in the lighter burn in the halftone areas?
How are your test squares such a nice solid burn? I use a cnc 3018. my squares looks weird, like as the laser moves back and forth, the power drops and rises as well, making only the center column of each square whatever color that gets burned. Any ideas how i can fix this? i'm still on trial portion of Lightburn
@@TheEdgeofTech If you have a certain resolution that you use to best fit a certain monitor or that you personally like best. There is a very simple solution to rectify any inconsistencies or layout errors for programs not loading the full extent of their intended GUI preferences. So what most forget to modify or adjust (due to the OS usually adjusting automatically) is the scaling option along with your resolution. So if you have a huge 4K TV and everything looks super tiny with the finest of detail, your OS would(most likely if in automatic scaling mode) adjust the scaling modifier to probably 200% too keep everything within reason for a skewed or undesired viewpoint. Now if you have an odd TV or display being used as a Desktop PC monitor you are more than likely going to need a little bit of self adjustment due to the OS not really knowing what or how to exactly scale to the format or resolution type. I know this was as bit more detail than needed by most but just wanted to make it as clear and understanding as possible. So if you have any issues in the future just go into your personalized display settings and just go through and tweak those settings to your liking and find what use case it suites best. Thanks for reading to the end and hope y'all have a fantastic evening with happy healthy spirits and may the Maker gods watch over your projects for flawless finishes and happy clients all around! lol Sorry, I'm a freakin nerd Thanks AGAIN!
Edge Of Tech....I've been slowly researching OLM2 watching many vids and decided to start my laser getting to know tile burning before moving to other material. Your videos are very easy to follow along & understand, so I was pumped, got me a batch of painted tiles [(red/blk, wht/blk, blu/blk)...downloaded your 1200 swatch file. When I ran them though, the laser didn't even break through the top layer of black on 1200/40%, it seems as if it is running too fast. I played around with the settings....when took the last row slowing them down, only around 250/60 did it breakthru the black. PAINT STYLE.... The base color paint (blue & white), using your x+y method, is Krylon Fusion 5X All-In-One (Paint+Primer) The black outer paint (black), using your x+y method, is Krylon ColorMaxx Paint+Primer Is it that my paint choice is paint+primer?...layering to thick?...something else?
ATTENTION 20MM/SEC = 1200MM/MIN...When I opened your file the other day, I noticed that the speed was at 20 not 1200, so I adjusted each layer to 1200! Well, I was just reviewing my settings I now see the speed is rated "mm/sec", not "mm/min", therefore 20mm/sec = 1200mm/min That being said why does your video speed read "per/min" and my system "per/sec"?
Thanks for the video. I have two questions - Could I do the same to get the number for a three or four color tile to find out the power percentage to get to the bottom layer (say a white tile/canvas with yellow, orange, blue, and a black top coat)? The second question is do the numbers relate to the power needed to burn through the paint? So the same numbers would work on tile or canvas? Thanks again for the great explanation and easy to follow instructions.
Yes you can use many colors and try this. I would adjust the power settings for each square to be higher though. And also, it should be the same as canvas if the canvas is painted the same and in the same focus area.
It's very cool and useful. but I didn't understand why raise the laser module so high? is it not possible to provide the same engraving with the help of laser power and speed with its standard operation? I saw in someone's video that they engrave on the same painted tile without lifting the laser module.
Jim, fantastic video. Hadn't thought about using test tiles for the colors. If you want to save time drying, use a heat gun on low heat. I can layer paint on a tile and be ready to engrave in about 5 min with the paint fully dried.
I wonder if you hit the tile with clear coat first, then applied your colors if you would give yourself a bit of a buffer to stop the scorching on the white tile?
I noticed the white o the shinedown tile had lines thru the white. Was this expected? I would have thought it would have been pure white without the lines.
Add a vacuum to the area, this removes the burned paint so that the debris is reduced. While some would say use air assist, in this case, that would tend to want to lift the paint as it's still very soft from localized heating.
Hello .If you wanted to make a piece that covered four 8x8 pieces then fit together. Meaning once put together it would be bigger than your laser area/bed. How would you line it up
I just found this video. Thank You for creating this video about 4 years ago. I have version1.6.0.1 of Lightburn. Are there features of GIMP now in Lightburn? If so, video link?
Great video, my laser is on the way. Can't wait to try this....keep the videos coming. What would happen if you tried more layers of different colors. Say 2 or maybe 3 colors under the black.....
Following you step by step and the first problem I have is when I downloaded the color test 1200 final and then open it in lightburn. Nothing shows it desnt show the 15 boxes. as you can tell i am brand new at this
For cleaning would 90% isopropyl alcohol work? I use it for cleaning lots of different things. Removes oils really well. Actually removed the paint on my toilet seat and a spot on the wall that was yellow.
@@TheEdgeofTech cool. I actually work at a hardware store and just ordered the ortur laser master 2 pro for my first engraver after hours of looking at reviews and videos. Have some experience with delta 3d printers. Just looking to earn a little extra money on the side. Had some co workers buy a few holiday 3d prints but even the small stuff takes a long time and filament is a little expensive when trying new models and having to throw out failed prints. Plus I have to order them online so it takes a while to get them too. Wood and tiles are cheap and readily available lol
@@TheEdgeofTech just curious, do you know if this would work with glow in the dark paint? Watched your video on doing this on canvas too and found some patterns that would look great if parts could glow in the dark. Can't find any info online where anyone has tried this though.
Dumb question. I used Rust-oleum gloss black on a white subway tile. Lasered it, looked good, but when I sprayed Rust-oleum gloss clear and it reacted with the black. It almost seemed to bubble up. It is uniform and actually looks good, but why did it do that? Did the same thing when I tried Rust-oleum Lacquer. I did wipe and brush it off thoroughly before spraying.
Hey Boss man. Love your videos keep up the amazing work Quick question..I am working on my power tiles for my colors but All the colors seem to be the same..practicaly no change in colors. Any advice?
It's all about speed and power combinations. If you have a larger watt diode, you will need to go faster with less power. What you could do is start with 1 color on a white tile and see how much power it takes to burn through it to the white. Then move on from there.
hey Jim! just wondering if what you did with gimp and plugin is available to do right in lightburn with updates since then. just wanna know before i buy the plugin
What type of paint do you use? I’ve noticed that my clear coat reacts with the black paint. Looks like it got cracks in it. I use all rustoleum 2x gloss paints. I use the clear rustoleum 2x paint for my clear coat too. Any ideas? 12:41
This is amazing info! I had to like sub and comment for you and watched to end ;) thank you for sharing this valuable info!! it gave me ideas for multiple colors on one tile burning at different levels ;)
@@TheEdgeofTech This was very helpfull, many great tips and links. And the cork at the end, ordered it right away😂😎 keep it coming bud, great videos as always, greetings from Norway
just got mine, trying to go thru everything lot of good info here. Seems I cant get canvas to do anything. Adjust the focus on the ortur 20w, but wont even go tru the black layer. 2500 sped and 89 power. Doing mulitple passes just to try and get down. Any other tips? make it look easy
@@rednate13 That's the new fixed focus laser. You put the block on your material, then bring the laser head down to it. You shouldn't be turning the laser lens at all. Is that how you are focusing?
@@rednate13 Go to my newest video that came out today. I have a link in there for the Nicky Norton test file. Run that and see what happens. Let me know because that has many different powers and speeds. You should definitely see a result. As long as you are using that focusing block to get the correct focal distance
Jim awesome video I tried this test and my test spots was way darker and my laser would get outside the lines when it sped up. Just wondering what the problem could be is there a forum or somewhere I could get some help with this? Thanks
I bought a century falcon 2, 22w laser and the presets that came with it are not correct. I am trying Benji for color tile. I want to figure out the magic number that I need to engrave to bring out the color .
Great job! I truly enjoyed your video. I’m in the market for a laser, as soon as I get it, I will create a Jeep Weather Station for my USAF active duty daughter stationed in Japan. Howdy from Texas!!!
Great video. I downloaded the color test file and ran it on some tiles I painted and everything is coming out pretty wonky. It looks great in LightBurn but when the laser burns it, the alignment is way off horizontally across each square using different power. Also, the outline burn on the squares and numbers isn't lining up. I've done 4 tiles and they all come out exactly the same. Any help on this?
I know this sounds a little soupy but when a person gives so much help it fills me with joy. This is a top drawer example of how to share...
Definitely one of the best videos on this topic I’ve seen as of yet. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Just a quick suggestion. Being an auto painter I would suggest using a grease and wax remover rather than lacquer thinner or acetone. These both are petroleum based and and do have oils in them. The grease and wax remover will prepare the material more cleanly. Thanks for your videos.
Thanks for the suggestion! I'll give it a shot!
Checked what my hardware store had today. Degreaser is right next to acetone, others have said degreaser is better for cleaning. Will try that first.
Bingo, being a contractor I say the same. I have tried them all and Krud Kutter is the safest most effective I have found. Wipes clean, you can use it on food prep surfaces but it cleans better than TSP.
@@johnhubbard6262Hi, which version of KK? Presume it's the "kitchen degreaser"?
Original, one gallon@@jf5336
Thank you for all you do, I got my laser yesterday and I'm painting my tiles for tests today.
When dithering, the dots that make up the “lighter” area are black too so they will use the same percentage power as the larger black area in the letter S. The reason it doesn’t burn down to the white of the tile is that it ramps the laser power up and down as it enters into a black area of the image and it doesn’t have time enough to ramp all the way up to max power, so it doesn’t cut far enough. There are white spots in the areas where several dither dots are close enough together for the ramp to reach closer to the peak.
So if you want to make sure it is red and only red you should not use dithering. Instead you could get away with grayscale aka passthrough, but you’d have to guess and test the percentages.
A more sure way to control the values is to split the bitmap into different images and set them up separately in lightburn with the values from the test tile for each layer.
Could you do it as a two tone image where a grey tone is a consistent reduced power and then the black is a higher power setting? Or could you do it as a second pass on the "black" section to burn all the way through the paint?
Three years ago I know, but I was so impressed with your comment on PPE, your 20 years from now self is going to reap the benefits of that, just like I reaped the whirlwind ignoring it.
A point to consider is if you are worried about absorbing something through your skin, as you should be, you need to consider the fumes, your eyes will soak stuff up much faster than your skin, and do much more damage over time. Your painting outside in a breeze is huge when added up over time.
Thanks for an amazing video!
You do great learning novices like me new stuff! 🤓 appreciate that you take your time and show all steps ❤️
Keep u the good work 💪🙌
Awesome video ! You are a natural, thank you for sharing, you made this easy to understand! All the best!
I love this, So educational and everything is shown step by step in simple steps,Thank you
When I’m in your channel I feel like I kid in a candy store. Thanks for ensuring the world. 🌎
I'm learning more every day, thank you. I actually like the texture you get from the reaction of the clearcoat over the paint. What I did was let it dry, run the air bubbles out of it and shoot another coat and voila !! a textured (by accident) finish.
I discover your youtube channel and its great content dont understant how you so little subscribers. Dont give up, and as you say "keep burning".
Thank you for explaining how to use gimp, I was having a hard time trying to figure it out, keep up the good work :)
Great video. I'm retired and don't want to mess with paint and acetone. Make sure to post a vid when they come out with an easier way to change color.😁
Will do!
Thank you!
Light burn and it’s developer’s are awesome😎
Oh God..This is awesome..You have open my mind..I use my dioda laser only on wood and leather..Now I will try on tile like you do..thanks for new idea..
Excellent tutorial sir! Seriously, so great compared to others. I now am good at etching on tile because of you🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
One of the best explanation videos I have seen using this laser. Really great detail for people starting out and you don't over complicate your instructions. Just subscribed to your channel. Cheers.
Thank you!
excellent explanation on how to use the test tiles. new to this and this is best explanation I have watched because I actually understood what was going on with the colors. thanks
Wow! That makes your work (probably ) faster , brilliant stuff
Great vid! Awesome tips and I like your approach...keep up the great work!
I need to check that out, but as other ppl did - so with removal of the paint with acetone after engraving. I already had a great effects just with white spray
*Great videos Jim!* Seems we have a lot of the same content! Hey, to fix your screen, go to Settings --> Toolbar Icon Size and scrub left with the slider. Love your channel!
Thank you so much. Learnt a few new things from your video, simple things like pressing shift with frame in lightburn. Thanks again.
I have an ORTUR Master 2 + 20W Diode unit and want to replace that with a NEJE 30W Diode laser.
That by all accounts is much more Powerful and lasts many times longer.
The problem for a newby and someone that is mentally challenged ( electrically ) is how to wire the NEJE to the ORTUR.
I know that others out there have the same problem but have not seen any solutions to this.
Oh and keep producing those awesome videos, I look forward to each new output that covers something different.
Thank
Thanks for all of your great content. I'm new to laser burning and I find your videos very helpful and well put together. Thanks for all that you do.
Just learned so much from your video! Can't wait to try it out 🌈
Great information. My Ortur is on order so I am out here in youtube land trying to soak up all this information and I know i will be watching this video again for sure. Great information.
What if we wanted to make one multi-colored, how many colors could we use before the laser doesn't have any effect?
you could use a stensil to blob on the colour areas before the black?
This video will change someone's life. Thank you mate.
I put a very light pencil mark x in the center of my tile, position the laser in the center of the graphic, fire and square the tile to the work surface.
I have had my 60 watt CO2 laser for over a year. I have done these tiles with 1 color. I have never tried more than 1 color. I am going to do that this week end. And I have only used the free RDWorks. I will look at Light Burn as well.
Awesome! Let me know how it goes!!
Thank you ! Your series has been amazing, easy to follow and executed with perfection. I look forward to seeing more of these . :-)
Hey Jim, watched this video numerous times and I was wondering if you could use more color layers on one tile for different color effects? Like a white tile with black, gold and red, is that something that would work? Different power levels may produce different colors. Keep up the great work and love your videos.
He actually does that on canvas in a different video.
Yes, it works!
This is so awesome. I’m going to buy a laser engraver as a gift for my sisters. They’re so excited.
Something I noticed that works better for me, is when I spray the paint, I firmly hold the button rather than pressing it multiple times during the coloring of the tile. Thank you!!
A lot of demo videos leave a lot to be desired, this was a joy to watch.
I will certainly be getting myself an Ortur Master 2 20W very soon and look forwards to more videos.
Liked and subscribed.
Thank you for watching!
This video is super inspiring thank you so much! 🌈
Have you tried mod podge? It’s a sealer as well, you can seal the tile and then spray the acrylic clear if the tile is sticky from the mod podge. My wife has transferred photos onto 4x4 tiles using mod podge and then I would spray with an acrylic sealer.
Another informative video Jim. Picked up one of these lasers after having seen Garret on one of your videos with the hulk tile. Been doing the permanent tiles with some old family photos. Really amazing.
Keep up the great job with the 3D printers and now the laser.
how do you display the tiles once they are done?
Great vid, thank you. Getting ready to retire and have a cnc and laser in my shop. Seen something like this but yours is the best I have seen!
Nice! thanks for your good ideas and tips!
I am gonna test my new ortur master 2 on this project like yours..
Wish me luck and have a good day!
dude your killing it with these videos, informative, full of awesome ideas and entertaining for an instructional video.
ive seen a few of your vids but this one was the subscribe. Sooo helpful. Cheers brother.
Wow, this is indeed a great tutorial that made me amazed there are no limits. You are a great speaker. Very clear and easy to follow process, and right to the point. These are the kind of videos that I enjoy most. Keep up the good work. I am now a happy subscriber. Enjoy your holidays.
This video is gold man! Thanks for the walkthrough!!!!
Your the man Jim, most underrated channel by far
Wonderful tutorial but if I try with your test board,there isn't nothing on the tile
I have to push up to1200mm/min 75%...
I have the same laser and a good focus with microspope.
Can you help me?
In case anyone out there is having problems with peeling, bubbling or cracking paint Rustoleum support has told me it takes 2 weeks for your paint to cure completely before you should paint over it or clear coat. Just an FYI I learned the hard way.
Montana paints is an acrylic paint that cures in 24 hours if you need an alternative.
Just got finished watching your video which was great. I noticed you having some problems with the paint pulling from the tile. It might be caused from the tile being non porous. So when your clear starts drying it pulls some of the paint from the tile surface. One idea If I might suggest would be to sand the tile to rough the surface allowing the paint somethig to grab ahold of.They also now make a product called slick stick by dixie bell.This also allows the paint to something to grab to. Down side is the exrta expense.Sand papers alot cheaper. Just a thought. Looking forward to more videos
Thank you for the advice!
What about tile paint lol
Wicked video man, as usual. Just starting out and they're all a huge help!
Thank for the video... helps with deciding the route and laser to go with !! Keep Rockin!
Glad to help!
This is a great video and has helped me a lot with my own tile burning. However, there are two things. First, the lines in the burn test are at the default 6000 mm/min, which jiggles the crap out of my table (things have fallen off). Second, the "gray" area is supposed to be dots burned at the maximum power set, in your case 30. Shouldn't that have resulted in a bunch of white dots instead of the red? I did notice there are some white spots. Is there any way to know how much to compensate for the apparent loss of power (or whatever it is) that results in the lighter burn in the halftone areas?
How are your test squares such a nice solid burn?
I use a cnc 3018. my squares looks weird, like as the laser moves back and forth, the power drops and rises as well, making only the center column of each square whatever color that gets burned.
Any ideas how i can fix this? i'm still on trial portion of Lightburn
Genius!!! thanks for sharing
dude you are a genius great job!!!
I have that same resolution issue I just hit the minimize square button. You'll lose the layers but the fire tab will show back up.
It was a resolution issue. I went back to the recommended resolution and it all shows now!
@@TheEdgeofTech If you have a certain resolution that you use to best fit a certain monitor or that you personally like best. There is a very simple solution to rectify any inconsistencies or layout errors for programs not loading the full extent of their intended GUI preferences. So what most forget to modify or adjust (due to the OS usually adjusting automatically) is the scaling option along with your resolution. So if you have a huge 4K TV and everything looks super tiny with the finest of detail, your OS would(most likely if in automatic scaling mode) adjust the scaling modifier to probably 200% too keep everything within reason for a skewed or undesired viewpoint. Now if you have an odd TV or display being used as a Desktop PC monitor you are more than likely going to need a little bit of self adjustment due to the OS not really knowing what or how to exactly scale to the format or resolution type. I know this was as bit more detail than needed by most but just wanted to make it as clear and understanding as possible. So if you have any issues in the future just go into your personalized display settings and just go through and tweak those settings to your liking and find what use case it suites best. Thanks for reading to the end and hope y'all have a fantastic evening with happy healthy spirits and may the Maker gods watch over your projects for flawless finishes and happy clients all around! lol Sorry, I'm a freakin nerd Thanks AGAIN!
Edge Of Tech....I've been slowly researching OLM2 watching many vids and decided to start my laser getting to know tile burning before moving to other material. Your videos are very easy to follow along & understand, so I was pumped, got me a batch of painted tiles [(red/blk, wht/blk, blu/blk)...downloaded your 1200 swatch file. When I ran them though, the laser didn't even break through the top layer of black on 1200/40%, it seems as if it is running too fast.
I played around with the settings....when took the last row slowing them down, only around 250/60 did it breakthru the black.
PAINT STYLE....
The base color paint (blue & white), using your x+y method, is Krylon Fusion 5X All-In-One (Paint+Primer)
The black outer paint (black), using your x+y method, is Krylon ColorMaxx Paint+Primer
Is it that my paint choice is paint+primer?...layering to thick?...something else?
ATTENTION 20MM/SEC = 1200MM/MIN...When I opened your file the other day, I noticed that the speed was at 20 not 1200, so I adjusted each layer to 1200! Well, I was just reviewing my settings I now see the speed is rated "mm/sec", not "mm/min", therefore 20mm/sec = 1200mm/min
That being said why does your video speed read "per/min" and my system "per/sec"?
Loved the video. Keep more coming. Easy to understand especially for us new laser uasers.
Thanks for the video. I have two questions - Could I do the same to get the number for a three or four color tile to find out the power percentage to get to the bottom layer (say a white tile/canvas with yellow, orange, blue, and a black top coat)? The second question is do the numbers relate to the power needed to burn through the paint? So the same numbers would work on tile or canvas?
Thanks again for the great explanation and easy to follow instructions.
Yes you can use many colors and try this. I would adjust the power settings for each square to be higher though. And also, it should be the same as canvas if the canvas is painted the same and in the same focus area.
Great tutorial. I'm learning a lot from you.
Thanks.
Perfect! Just what i was looking for!
This is amazing. Thanks 🙏
This is fabulous info! Thank you i will do my first color tiles today.
Awesome! Let me know how it goes!
Man! You could totally make a geeked out kitchen or shower with these! Fun Times!
It's very cool and useful.
but I didn't understand why raise the laser module so high?
is it not possible to provide the same engraving with the help of laser power and speed with its standard operation?
I saw in someone's video that they engrave on the same painted tile without lifting the laser module.
Jim, fantastic video. Hadn't thought about using test tiles for the colors. If you want to save time drying, use a heat gun on low heat. I can layer paint on a tile and be ready to engrave in about 5 min with the paint fully dried.
Nice! I'll have to try that!!
any cheap heat gun will do the job?
What should I say - you made my day man. Really good idea and nice work.
Love this step by step tutorial, I am completely new and this helped a lot! I subscribed so I hope to find more step by step for the two trees laser
I wonder if you hit the tile with clear coat first, then applied your colors if you would give yourself a bit of a buffer to stop the scorching on the white tile?
Question in the preview window do you need to have shade according to power checked?
When using the nicky norton on white tile and black slate, do I want the darkest for the white tile and lightest for the slate? Thanks
Ya, the objective would be to get the best darkness in the white tiles and on slate, I would go for whatever you think looks the best.
@@TheEdgeofTech thanks
I noticed the white o the shinedown tile had lines thru the white. Was this expected? I would have thought it would have been pure white without the lines.
How do you prevent the paint from coming off of the glossy tile? I scrubbed mine like crazy with acetone and my paint scratches so easily. Thanks
Thank you for the great videos. BTW, I freaking LOVE Shinedown )
How would you clean up the burn through both coats of paint to get purewhite without the dirty lines? Overburn maybe?
You could go over it twice, or use a higher power, or burn it in layers so that the layer that goes all the way down is a higher burn percentage.
Add a vacuum to the area, this removes the burned paint so that the debris is reduced. While some would say use air assist, in this case, that would tend to want to lift the paint as it's still very soft from localized heating.
I’m very envious of a laser that actually fires at less than 10%. Oh the flexibility!
Hey, what about just burning the tile's footprint right into the wood base there, so you can just line it all up the same every time?
Hello .If you wanted to make a piece that covered four 8x8 pieces then fit together. Meaning once put together it would be bigger than your laser area/bed. How would you line it up
Hi! I can do a video on that, but Garret from 3D Print Farm did one if you want to check his out!!
@@TheEdgeofTech cool I’ll check it out. If you did a video that would be great also
@@TheEdgeofTech I was unable to find Garret’s
Question,14:14 how come you can't use the adjust image tool in light burn to do this?
I just found this video. Thank You for creating this video about 4 years ago. I have version1.6.0.1 of Lightburn. Are there features of GIMP now in Lightburn? If so, video link?
Great video, my laser is on the way. Can't wait to try this....keep the videos coming.
What would happen if you tried more layers of different colors. Say 2 or maybe 3 colors under the black.....
Following you step by step and the first problem I have is when I downloaded the color test 1200 final and then open it in lightburn. Nothing shows it desnt show the 15 boxes. as you can tell i am brand new at this
Awesome video... thanks so much for the detailed descriptions!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Make sure to use glazed tile unglazed tile still works but requires different settings
For cleaning would 90% isopropyl alcohol work? I use it for cleaning lots of different things. Removes oils really well. Actually removed the paint on my toilet seat and a spot on the wall that was yellow.
It will work!
@@TheEdgeofTech cool. I actually work at a hardware store and just ordered the ortur laser master 2 pro for my first engraver after hours of looking at reviews and videos. Have some experience with delta 3d printers. Just looking to earn a little extra money on the side. Had some co workers buy a few holiday 3d prints but even the small stuff takes a long time and filament is a little expensive when trying new models and having to throw out failed prints. Plus I have to order them online so it takes a while to get them too. Wood and tiles are cheap and readily available lol
@@TheEdgeofTech just curious, do you know if this would work with glow in the dark paint? Watched your video on doing this on canvas too and found some patterns that would look great if parts could glow in the dark. Can't find any info online where anyone has tried this though.
Dumb question. I used Rust-oleum gloss black on a white subway tile. Lasered it, looked good, but when I sprayed Rust-oleum gloss clear and it reacted with the black. It almost seemed to bubble up. It is uniform and actually looks good, but why did it do that? Did the same thing when I tried Rust-oleum Lacquer. I did wipe and brush it off thoroughly before spraying.
Hey Boss man.
Love your videos keep up the amazing work
Quick question..I am working on my power tiles for my colors but
All the colors seem to be the same..practicaly no change in colors.
Any advice?
It's all about speed and power combinations. If you have a larger watt diode, you will need to go faster with less power. What you could do is start with 1 color on a white tile and see how much power it takes to burn through it to the white. Then move on from there.
hey Jim! just wondering if what you did with gimp and plugin is available to do right in lightburn with updates since then. just wanna know before i buy the plugin
What type of paint do you use? I’ve noticed that my clear coat reacts with the black paint. Looks like it got cracks in it. I use all rustoleum 2x gloss paints. I use the clear rustoleum 2x paint for my clear coat too. Any ideas? 12:41
This is amazing info! I had to like sub and comment for you and watched to end ;) thank you for sharing this valuable info!! it gave me ideas for multiple colors on one tile burning at different levels ;)
I love your videos! Very interesting and helpful
Awsome, ordered this printer 1 week go, can't wait! Great video!
Thanks, l hope it helps when you get yours! Thanks for watching!
@@TheEdgeofTech This was very helpfull, many great tips and links. And the cork at the end, ordered it right away😂😎 keep it coming bud, great videos as always, greetings from Norway
@@RazerB80 Thank you!
just got mine, trying to go thru everything lot of good info here. Seems I cant get canvas to do anything. Adjust the focus on the ortur 20w, but wont even go tru the black layer. 2500 sped and 89 power. Doing mulitple passes just to try and get down. Any other tips? make it look easy
Did you get the fixed focus laser or the adjustable focus?
@@TheEdgeofTech believe adjustable, as it came with the aluminum block for measuring
@@rednate13 That's the new fixed focus laser. You put the block on your material, then bring the laser head down to it. You shouldn't be turning the laser lens at all. Is that how you are focusing?
@@TheEdgeofTech yes and using the block that came with it. I followed your vid about getting a picture ready and all that.
@@rednate13 Go to my newest video that came out today. I have a link in there for the Nicky Norton test file. Run that and see what happens. Let me know because that has many different powers and speeds. You should definitely see a result. As long as you are using that focusing block to get the correct focal distance
Jim awesome video I tried this test and my test spots was way darker and my laser would get outside the lines when it sped up. Just wondering what the problem could be is there a forum or somewhere I could get some help with this? Thanks
I bought a century falcon 2, 22w laser and the presets that came with it are not correct. I am trying Benji for color tile. I want to figure out the magic number that I need to engrave to bring out the color .
Great job! I truly enjoyed your video. I’m in the market for a laser, as soon as I get it, I will create a Jeep Weather Station for my USAF active duty daughter stationed in Japan. Howdy from Texas!!!
Thank you for making this. This is giving me soooooo many ideas going forward.
Great video. I downloaded the color test file and ran it on some tiles I painted and everything is coming out pretty wonky. It looks great in LightBurn but when the laser burns it, the alignment is way off horizontally across each square using different power. Also, the outline burn on the squares and numbers isn't lining up. I've done 4 tiles and they all come out exactly the same. Any help on this?
Exact same issue here. Has anyone else come across this and figured out how to fix it?
Your line offset is not set in lightburn it can be adjusted in machine settings I believe and there are you tube videos on how to make adjustments.
Will this work on other things like wood?
I'd like to know that too! Any luck?
@@marcelosoarespereira not yet. Might have to just give it a shot and see what happens.