Love this. New to working on cars and have a 74 super beetle that I just started working on. A little less nervous at tackling the rear brake now! Thank you!!!!
Slade. The first bit of wrenching I ever did was brakes on a 74 ghia nearby 40yrs ago. A lot of break jobs and everything VW mechanical later, I still enjoyed watching this video and others. I'm still learning. Thanks for making the time and sharing all of your content. Peace ✌️.
Thanks for the effort you put into this. I find your tutorial videos the best as you deal with things that go wrong, as those are the things that usually happen with me. I’m doing my brakes this week so I’ll be going step by step through this video again when I do.
@@mistthescottishsheepdog thank you very much, I hope the video is very helpful. I’m working on my website, so it will be easier to find what videos you need quickly from your phones. I hope you have a great upcoming week.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, sir. I'll be taking in a 1971 1600 sp soon, which is in dire need of some love. Your channel will be my go-to for the restoration process of the old gal. All of the best to you and yours.
Bro, maybe your best video yet! Well done brother! Sure hope you feel MUCH BETTER very soon. Thank you for your sacrifice to make a video for all of us! Admire a man of integrity, always have always will.
Great job! Very in depth repair. When I use anti seize, it gets everywhere lol. Glad to see your were able to soldier on to the end of the video. Get well!
Thank you for the very informative and well recorded video! I was especially interested in the correct orientation of the parking brake spreader bar orientation which was shown very clearly. I also learned a valuable tip about the angle inside the adjuster screw slot, a huge thank you too. I am actually applying this information to rebuild the rear brakes on my '70 bus. It has had a poor to nearly non-functional parking brake for a very long time.
I have found that high temp or extreme pressure grease will work as well as never seize. If you make a mess with any product you will accumulate dirt and dust. Great video Thank you for sharing. A new Subscriber 👍🏁
Just finished mine. I felt it was easier removing the backing plates and working on the bench. I ran a tap through the adjusters too. We’ll done! Thanks!
I actually fitted earlier backing plates to my 72 GT. Mainly because they're much better quality and original. Unfortunately though the adjusters don't align with the shoes so I'm having to modify them to work. Another good helpful video
Thank you for addressing the angle of the brake shoe adjuster. I didn't notice the angle when I took everything apart and was trying to figure out which way it went back on. Of course the manuals do not address this which is why they are useless lol.
I redone all my brakes and at the time of bleed I get lot of air from the front and I waste like 2 quarts of oil bleeding and pedal Don't get Hard any suggestions
@3:30 you told us to be careful with those little tabs. Well now I just broke both of mine. I don't have the equipment to weld them back. Is there any chance I can just not put them in? Are those really necessary?
They actually do break a lot unfortunately as they get older. They hold your star wheel in place, the adjuster will, so they don’t just start spinning. You can buy a new backing plate with them on it I believe. If need be.
Great video. I did notice something . It looks like you were assembling the right hand brake but you had the left hand backing plate. The hole for the e brake is in the wrong place.
Dang, a couple of my little spring steel tabs that the adjuster star wheels click on are missing. Are they absolutely necessary? Hate to have to replace my good 1960 backing plates. I’m sure nothing new would be as good quality as OEM.
Truthfully you should have them on there so the star cannot start backing up when you’re hitting the brakes. But it’s OK, they sell that little tab online. You can actually put a new one on by just a little tack weld.
Slade, In this video it appears you are working on the passenger side rear drum. I noticed that on this drum, the top spring sits on top of the "hump" of the bar that bridges the top part of the shoes. I just disassembled the driver side drum of my beetle and noticed that the top spring sits in the "hollow" of the bar instead of on the "hump". The spring being nestled in the hollow seems to make more sense than it sitting on top of the hump. Maybe the "hump" is only there to increase the rigidity of the bar?
No they’re not. The front are different from the back. See if there is a part number stamped on the wheel cylinders. Then Google the part number and it will tell you which is front and back
Slade, as always you hit a home run with your videos. I keep watching all your old videos and they are God's send with so many of the details you put and explain into all of them. I had made several comments in relation to the batteries that a 1974 Standard Beetle need to have in it or can we just use any battery the can be held with the metal bracket by the battery tray? Thank you , will appreciated, I checked many auto parts store and they are charging way over the $300-$400 and then in Walmart I see ones for $100. If I have to , then so be it, but would like to know if I hsve another choice to save money to spend it on my Beetle. Thanks again!
I replaced all cylinders, shoes, lines and master brake cylinder on my 71 sb. Did bleeding of all 4 cylinders. My brake pedal goes to the floor. Have to pump it few times to brake and stop. Any leads are welcome.
OK you definitely still have air. Of course please make sure, this is very important. Adjust your brake shoes first! Before trying to bleed off again. If they’re not, you’re going to have to pump the pedal to get a firm one. So please adjust your brake shoes all the way around. And see if it solves the issue first. If not open all four bleeders until they consistently drip. And do not let the master cylinder reservoir go dry while doing this. And then try bleeding them off and it will be fixed.
Am pretty sure with the bar that goes between the shoes have the small notch (shorter) go into the shoe and the longer one into the emergency (hand) brake lever. Doesn't matter if you have the hump at the top if you have the wrong side bar.
I own a 67 beetle I'm having trouble getting my plastic glove box 2 fit up for the glove box door is the plastic glove box bevil's out too far on each side rubbing the hinges when I ordered this glove box it was for a fit of a 65 and a 67 thank you hope you can help me
Thanks!
Thank you for the ⛺️ part. I have never done it before
@@janebachman6071 thank you Jane, I appreciate the comment. Thank you for the special donation.
Great video. Good work. Many thanks from Germany.
Nicely done Mr Slade
Great video. You always do great diy. Thanks for the shout out that was really cool of you.
Love this. New to working on cars and have a 74 super beetle that I just started working on. A little less nervous at tackling the rear brake now! Thank you!!!!
That new camera is a game changer.
Great content.
Looks good like the new camera I hope you’re feeling better mostly for tonight Saturday night
Thanks for the video Slade . Hope you feel better Heather will take care of you catch ya on the next one.😁😁
Excellent video my friend, you take care and get well.
Great video! So sweet to see kids that love the Beetles!!!
Another great video, thanks Slade 👍👍
Slade, your timing couldn’t have been better. The exact project I will work on next week. Thanks for the great help!
Thanks again for the detailed assembly on the breaks...this is what I'm about to do on my 74 super.
Blessings amigo!
Slade. The first bit of wrenching I ever did was brakes on a 74 ghia nearby 40yrs ago. A lot of break jobs and everything VW mechanical later, I still enjoyed watching this video and others. I'm still learning. Thanks for making the time and sharing all of your content. Peace ✌️.
Thanks for the effort you put into this. I find your tutorial videos the best as you deal with things that go wrong, as those are the things that usually happen with me. I’m doing my brakes this week so I’ll be going step by step through this video again when I do.
@@mistthescottishsheepdog thank you very much, I hope the video is very helpful. I’m working on my website, so it will be easier to find what videos you need quickly from your phones. I hope you have a great upcoming week.
Hi! Just bought an old sand rail! Needs work I used to drive beetles but a refresher on maintenance will be very helpful. Subscribed
Congratulations on your sandrail! And thank you so much for being here.
Slade, you're amazing! Thanks for doing this!
Great video to add to my beetle restoration playlist! Thanks for always sharing your knowledge Slade! Feel better
Thank you slade!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, sir.
I'll be taking in a 1971 1600 sp soon, which is in dire need of some love.
Your channel will be my go-to for the restoration process of the old gal.
All of the best to you and yours.
Bro, maybe your best video yet! Well done brother! Sure hope you feel MUCH BETTER very soon. Thank you for your sacrifice to make a video for all of us! Admire a man of integrity, always have always will.
Nice job sir thank you for showing me that I dont have a VW bug but my car takes brake shoes like that to in the back great video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Another great video! Thank you sir!
Great job! Very in depth repair. When I use anti seize, it gets everywhere lol. Glad to see your were able to soldier on to the end of the video. Get well!
Ohhhh I usually end up with it all over the place 😁
Thank you for the very informative and well recorded video! I was especially interested in the correct orientation of the parking brake spreader bar orientation which was shown very clearly. I also learned a valuable tip about the angle inside the adjuster screw slot, a huge thank you too. I am actually applying this information to rebuild the rear brakes on my '70 bus. It has had a poor to nearly non-functional parking brake for a very long time.
I have found that high temp or extreme pressure grease will work as well as never seize. If you make a mess with any product you will accumulate dirt and dust. Great video Thank you for sharing. A new Subscriber 👍🏁
Thank you Johnny! And thank you so much for commenting I appreciate that.
Really keen to see the wire brushing on the pans
Doing that Friday and using rust bullet! Definitely film worthy!
Nice video. 👍
Great video. I’ll be referencing this when I tackle my rear brakes
We like following along
Hey Slade, I love your videos. Get well soon, so you aren't so miserable. Your dedication is admirable, but take care of yourself. ✌😊
Just finished mine. I felt it was easier removing the backing plates and working on the bench. I ran a tap through the adjusters too. We’ll done! Thanks!
nice job.
I actually fitted earlier backing plates to my 72 GT. Mainly because they're much better quality and original. Unfortunately though the adjusters don't align with the shoes so I'm having to modify them to work. Another good helpful video
where do you recommend buying breaks? we are looking at both disk and drum options for my sons 71 Beetle
Honestly I try to stay with Wolfsburg west. But, make sure to try an O’Reilly‘s local to you first just in case
i noticed they only have disk upgrades for a Bus. Did you go through them when you bought some for a Bug?
@@michaelkilmer3880 Most places sell the disc upgrade kits. I think mostly Empi
Thank you for addressing the angle of the brake shoe adjuster. I didn't notice the angle when I took everything apart and was trying to figure out which way it went back on. Of course the manuals do not address this which is why they are useless lol.
Thanks for the comment, and being here! Glad it was helpful!
I redone all my brakes and at the time of bleed I get lot of air from the front and I waste like 2 quarts of oil bleeding and pedal Don't get Hard any suggestions
@3:30 you told us to be careful with those little tabs. Well now I just broke both of mine. I don't have the equipment to weld them back. Is there any chance I can just not put them in? Are those really necessary?
They actually do break a lot unfortunately as they get older. They hold your star wheel in place, the adjuster will, so they don’t just start spinning. You can buy a new backing plate with them on it I believe. If need be.
Those keeper springs and clips can be a total PIA. Looks like you got some better ones. Get well soon!
Nice video! I was wondering why you did not use the electrostatic cleaner to clean these parts??? Hope you feel better soon!!
Great video. I did notice something . It looks like you were assembling the right hand brake but you had the left hand backing plate. The hole for the e brake is in the wrong place.
Dang, a couple of my little spring steel tabs that the adjuster star wheels click on are missing. Are they absolutely necessary? Hate to have to replace my good 1960 backing plates. I’m sure nothing new would be as good quality as OEM.
Truthfully you should have them on there so the star cannot start backing up when you’re hitting the brakes. But it’s OK, they sell that little tab online. You can actually put a new one on by just a little tack weld.
@@SladesVWBeetle thanks. I have some on the way. BTW they are called Brake Adjuster Leaf Springs. Had a heck of a time finding them.
Slade, In this video it appears you are working on the passenger side rear drum. I noticed that on this drum, the top spring sits on top of the "hump" of the bar that bridges the top part of the shoes. I just disassembled the driver side drum of my beetle and noticed that the top spring sits in the "hollow" of the bar instead of on the "hump". The spring being nestled in the hollow seems to make more sense than it sitting on top of the hump. Maybe the "hump" is only there to increase the rigidity of the bar?
Spade, are the front and rear wheel cylinders interchangeable? I got them all mixed up.
No they’re not. The front are different from the back.
See if there is a part number stamped on the wheel cylinders.
Then Google the part number and it will tell you which is front and back
Slade, as always you hit a home run with your videos. I keep watching all your old videos and they are God's send with so many of the details you put and explain into all of them. I had made several comments in relation to the batteries that a 1974 Standard Beetle need to have in it or can we just use any battery the can be held with the metal bracket by the battery tray? Thank you , will appreciated, I checked many auto parts store and they are charging way over the $300-$400 and then in Walmart I see ones for $100. If I have to , then so be it, but would like to know if I hsve another choice to save money to spend it on my Beetle. Thanks again!
You don’t need an extremely high CCA, but you do need a group 42 size. I always buy the batteries that are around $100 to be honest with you.
I have a 68. Does a 68 have the clip for the springs?
of course, I could have used this video a week ago. lol.
Nice video Slade....killed it with the go-pro! Is there a certain wire wheel you use in grinder?( not sure if they come in differnt corsness?)
I just have a standard one on there right now. But it would also be nice to have a brass wire wheel, for more delicate metals.
I replaced all cylinders, shoes, lines and master brake cylinder on my 71 sb. Did bleeding of all 4 cylinders. My brake pedal goes to the floor. Have to pump it few times to brake and stop. Any leads are welcome.
OK you definitely still have air. Of course please make sure, this is very important. Adjust your brake shoes first! Before trying to bleed off again. If they’re not, you’re going to have to pump the pedal to get a firm one. So please adjust your brake shoes all the way around. And see if it solves the issue first. If not open all four bleeders until they consistently drip. And do not let the master cylinder reservoir go dry while doing this. And then try bleeding them off and it will be fixed.
Am pretty sure with the bar that goes between the shoes have the small notch (shorter) go into the shoe and the longer one into the emergency (hand) brake lever. Doesn't matter if you have the hump at the top if you have the wrong side bar.
I own a 67 beetle I'm having trouble getting my plastic glove box 2 fit up for the glove box door is the plastic glove box bevil's out too far on each side rubbing the hinges when I ordered this glove box it was for a fit of a 65 and a 67 thank you hope you can help me
People want to watch technical stuff.
Have you not seen Draco or Scrappy build videos?
I haven’t seen those
@@SladesVWBeetle Dude. Mike Patey.
You're welcome.