Hi Everyone! In this 1969 VW Beetle episode, we install those shiny new axles and FINALLY get to adjusting and bleeding the brakes! Enjoy! This is the link to the super cool rotatey-ratchet I used in the video: amzn.to/3kTdZ8S The CV Grease I used: amzn.to/30emKT0
Super cool video as usual! Also, you could get yourself a one way valve for the bleeding. It will save lots of time and the 'pump pump hold' would just be 'pump pump pump'
That rotary ratchet is very cool . I finally got rid of the front drum brakes on my '71 Beetle and installed new spindles and Disk brakes . Wow what a difference ! The brakes are so much better and they don't need to be adjusted constantly . I should have converted to disk brakes a long time ago ..
I searched YT for a tutorial on replacing the CV joint and came across yours. Thank you for your content! Your presentation and video production is top notch.
I'm never sure how engineers decide which fasteners should be dry, greased or thread-locked. Continuing to enjoy your videos. As a teacher I want to say you're an exceptional educator. Thank you.
we've had beetles in our family on and off for almost 60 yrs. Our methods are mirror image to yours. Old school is not dead yet, and with more younger people moving into beetle your videos, your videos are a must....Don't stop now!!! Your doing a great presentation. John.
Hi there from KW Wiese I have found it helpful to remove a stuck star wheel - Find a slightly longer bolt with the same pitch , size & thread , oil is needed and sometimes a spacer as the bolt bottoms out - 1/8 threads left.
My goodness, another 1969 Yukon Yellow VW bug. I have named mine CAR = Cover of Abbey Road. I am certain you have seen the album. I believe she was bored with the Beatles tossing her to the curb taking 2nd place, so she decided to move on over here to Bug Garden where she has 5 more beetles and 2 vans to keep her company. 4 are protected, and the other 4 are yard ornamentation which are still very salvageable. I keep windows protected from hail and sun shining inside. Gardening takes most of my time, yet the VW's have been in my bones for 35 years. Bless your heart for this amazing video you produced. Well done!
Miss Franny....another spectacular video!!! Looks like one of the first things I need to order is a supply of silicone paste and anti-seize! Permatex and 3M should be sponsoring you by now! 🙂 Seriously though....I'm a firm believer in both, especially the anti-seize as it will certainly make your life easier (or someone else's) the next time around!
One more trick is to put teflon tape, or the liquid form from a can, on the bleeder threads. This prevents false positives of air induction through the threads of the bleeder. It also lubricates the bleeder so it won't be stuck 10 years from now. It will still be stuck LOL! but it won't be THAT stuck!
I know I’m really late on this, but an old timer mechanic told me that when you’re bleeding the brakes you have to have the cap on your reservoir on and tight so the pressure won’t escape through the reservoir and not through your lines. Intuitive, but as a young kid working on his bug for the first time, it was a revelation. Duh.
No better way to finish the weekend in a relaxed mood than watching Fran working on a car. Even better, if it’s a beetle 😁. BTW: HAZET 2582 is the perfect tool for the adjustment of the brakes.
My son and I LOVE your super helpful and entertaining vids! Well done and right to the point. They have guided us along our journey of repairing our 74 super beetle. Also we noticed the Chris Fix T-shirt (we love his excellent vids too!) and as a mechanic myself (aircraft), I appreciate your support of other mechanics. Keep at it!
Love your You Tube channel! I just bought a 1971 Super Beetle with plans to restore it. Your videos are the best on You Tube. You go slow enough and provide sufficient details that we can use them as reference for actual repairs. I love that you work on VWs while owning a Porsche and now a BMW. Wish I could afford the Porsche!! Thanks for your great videos! BRUCE
It's always a pleasure to watch yours videos, yours comments, the way you work on it, it"s professional ; I then apply it on my Beetle. Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
Thanks for the great videos, I started restoring 70 beetle, currently the car skids and slide even if someone pour a glass of water on the road, tires seems to be ok, all shock absorbers not working(must be changed soon) but anything else that I must check and fix considering safety is must priority for people in street and passengers. You guide is very much appreciated. Thanks
I get a lot of enjoyment from your episodes Franny, very clean and precise. I had a VW 1300 (Sydney, Australia) for 27 yrs and now very sorry that I sold it 28 yrs ago, it was in perfect condition with no rust. Incidentally the little bird you see on the left is a Rockwarbler, the only true endemic bird to NSW Australia.
When pulling CV axles that are visibly old and worn, I opt for replacements. It’s cheaper to replace them, than trying to rebuild them. Time equals money, so when taking a mechanic’s time into account, it’s often cheaper to replace with new.
Hello, my name is John ("Hello, John!"), and I am addicted to Heidi and Franny's Garage... I have been binge watching your channel. Congratulations on your promotion to my new personal hero, who takes on jobs I would have thought too big for me. Probably because I don't have the right tools for the job...like a lift for one. I'm also amazed at your ability to stay up beat throughout a job...I would have summoned every swear word I knew (and probably invented a few) on that CV joint job you did. See, I used to race a Neon ACR, and I love working on my cars, but I make my life harder by not investing in the proper tools. In the course of one race season, I've replaced my pads (4 wheel disk) six times (and as many oil and filter changes), realigned my front end (no toe - only 150 HP and nearly negative 3 degrees camber on the front end), replaced my rotors (I learned from the guy who designed the brake and suspension systems of the Neons - who used to race them too - that the thicker the metal, the better the dissipation of heat ,so I NEVER had a rotor machined), and replaced my front calipers - over the course of ownership, about 9 years and as many race seasons - 3 sets of front calipers which were the same as the Jeep Cherokee I had. I love that stuff, but my wife refused to let my young girls sit with me while I was working out in the garage; once my youngest (about 4 at the time) got her hand squished between the shopping cart and the shelf. She let out a loud "Son of a..." and my wife suddenly became the object of stares from every mother in the grocery aisle. She thought fast and said, "No more working with Daddy in the Garage for you!" The other mothers instantly understood. But I am fascinated with your videos on the drum brakes, which I think where designed by the devil. I got to the point where I could bleed the breaks on my Neon ACR in 15 minutes not including jacking the car on four jack stands. I'm 62 years old and remember how easy it was to work on those old, beautiful cars. THANK YOU for the videos! Keep them coming!
This is a great story! There may have been a few choice words directed at the wind that day... In all fairness it was misbehaving and kinda had it commin' lol!
So glad I found your channel. Trying to get my 72 Super Beetle convertible up and running. It needs just about everything bumper to bumper. Watched several videos detailing the next several steps in it's restoration. Very , very helpful. Thanks and God bless. From sunny Arizona !
Yes you got it! The 2 flanges between cv joint and transmission is where the torque should be transmitted or else the bolts will be in shear. The static friction for steel is around 0.6-0.15 (clean). (Fr) divided by the normal or perpendicular force (N) pushing the objects together. It is represented by the equation: fr = Fr/N. Sorry for the engineering talk, I couldn't help myself.
Just did this 6 months ago..worst part was cleaning the allen head insides to make the socket fit all the way into the head to get them off.. Great tip on making sure bolts go in clean! Great work super clean VW!!
Also, I used to use Motul 600 - 600 BP dry, and 500 something boiling point wet. In racing (actually, Time Trials because I LIKE my fenders and paint) Motul 600 was golden, and so was Ford Blue. In fact, Motul was yellow, so ever OTHER time I bled the brakes I used it and in between I used Ford Blue. It was one sure way you could tell you were replacing the fluid in the system. Yellow, blue, yellow, blue...
Hi Franny, I noticed a “Pittsburgh “ marking on one of your tools. Any tool I should steer clear of from Harbor Freight? Love your videos. Never excessive on the intro, camera angles are awesome, and you cut right to the chase. I’m restoring a 71 Ghia and watch many of your videos to compliment and illustrate the idiots guide. Keep up the good work. 👍🏽
Harbor freight is great for those one off kind of use tools, plus they actually have a lifetime warranty. Keep in mind that they are for those one off uses. If you want some good solid tools to use a bunch, you might check into some other brands. Franny says that the HF tools don't always have an exact fit. For example, pricey Snap On tools are amazing. We just can't afford them. Heidi
Hi Franny, love your clean way of working and how you make your vids. Your drum brake adjustment could use some fine tuning though:) Just telling you what I learned in as an army mechanic: Put the wheel back on before you adjust: Easier to turn plus in real life the wheel be on as well. Also realise which of the shoes is leading. One is leading driving forward and the other one is leading in reverse (in case of your Beetle). So turn the wheel in the correct direction for one shoe to lead and than adjust it i.e. clockwise for one shoe and counterclockwise for the other one. Hope this is clear and that it will help you next time. Love from Holland!
Never knew it’s friction that gets the torque across. It’s always good to learn :) There was so much air in the system, I thouhgt they were air brakes ;)
Great job! I love your attention to detail. Having said that I doubt brake fluid would absorb any critical amount of water in the small volume of air in a partially filled bottle. With a tight cap of course. Remember that the brake reservoir has a bleed hole to let air in to compensate for changing fluid levels. That's where the (damp air) water can get ''soaked up'' in the fluid and should be changed periodically.
Kind of funny with the friction as my 911 from 73 has gaskets between the mating surfaces. By the way you need a pressure bleeder for all your cars. It is the best way of bleeding brakes and can be done solo 🤓. It has been some of the best investments I’ve made for specialized tools.
I do have a pressure bleeder that I use on the more modern cars but I think the lines between the reservoir and the master cylinder might pop off. Just paranoia. It is also great to feel the pedal form up. I didn't know the 73 had that gasket. The 3.2 has them as well...
...and they do. I first read about this on the 3.2 Carrera forums. Just a couple loose bolts and the others can share off pulling away from a light. I should have mentioned that after about 500 miles after installation you should go back and check the torque. Most modern CV installations have covers over the grease so it doesn't rely on the cups as a grease reservoir. I would guess electric cars have to be especially careful :)
Hi Heidi and Franny. Another great video. I have been dying to tell you that I have bought my first Porsche. It's a 2001 Porsche Carrera Cabriolet. It's Lapis Blue, Savanna Beige interior with a 6 speed manual transmission with only 35,000 miles. IMS bearing has been replaced as well as the RMS. To put it mildly I'm so excited. Just picked it up today. I still can't believe I own one of these beautiful cars. How is 3.2 Carrera going? Can't wait to see the next video. Thank you girls.
We are working on my 16 yold daughter’s 68 beetle. Changed everything in the brakes. Bosch shoes new springs. If the car goes forward after pushing on the brakes the shoes stuck and grind until we back up a few feet. Then they free up and everything is fine till she steps on the brake again. Any ideas? I’m fixing old cars for 30 years and never seen this before.
Great video; it would’ve been easier to just engage the emergency brake, instead of going through all the trouble of locking the rear shoes? I try to bleed all the brake fluid out of my car every two years to keep it clean.
Great point. I edited that out somehow... But yes that would work great - just that you have to keep going back into the car each time you have to release the brakes.
Great video’s and love your attention to details for the DIYers! Do you have any recommendations regarding bleeding the brake system after installing a new Master Cylinder in a 69 VW Bug Conv? To Prime or not to Prime, that is the question? Thanks again for the videos!
I know this is an old video but do you remember where and which CV axles you purchased? I can't tell if the ones I'm looking at online are pre-greased. Or do they all come pre-greased? Thanks Franny.
On a 1967 bug, are the rubber break lines supposed to be different lengths for a reason? If so do you have a video on that? It seems like I saw a video last year about this issue, because one wheel turns a greater distance. Please help soon. Thank you. Love your videos.
Just had a rebuild and my bleeder screw is on the bottom and brake line is on the top. Wondering if there’s different models/versions of cylinders or if this was a mistake when the rebuild happened. If this is common, how do you get rid of the air pocket in the line? Trying everything and still having issues…
Excellent! Just a question, is it me or does the transmission have a grinding noise? When you turned the axle shaft it didn't sound so great (partly from previous video). Thanks!
Hi ! Wow thank you what a great video !!!!! For any chance do you have a video how to replace a carburetor on a vw beetle 66 ? I was thinking to change the old 30pic to a 34pic
I don't but it is pretty straight forward... Just the two mount bolts at the bottom, the two electrical connections, fuel and throttle and a vacuum line if you need one (otherwise plug all the unused vacuum ports/tubes).
Hi guys we have purchased a vw beetle 1957 oval window , what would you recommend as a rust preventative for spraying under the body to keep it in good condition Love the show watching from Riverton New Zealand
Thanks! Wow! a '57 oval :) I'm guessing your product might be a bit different than what is available her but the most important thing is to remove the rust first and not just cover it up. Also, it needs to be bone dry. The last thing you want to do is trap moisture under the coating.
Kinda tedious to use the brake adjusters to lock the drum. Might be easier to use a flat bar bolted to the drum with the far end bearing down on the lift ramp.
I use DOT 3 for drum brakes and 4 for disks. It is really about the temp. With drums the pistons are removed from the shoes but with disks they are literally right on the pads.
@@HeidiandFranny I just swapped out the rear brakes down to the cylinders also. There was something jamming the lines that ‘popped’ before the fluid would flow freely. Think I’ll do the master now also. Still getting rust bits in the clean fluid! Mine was as brown as yours as first. So nasty. Great video!
Heidi is there a personal way that I could contact you, I just bought a 1974 super beetle and I would just love for you help me getting my beetle back on top shape
Hi Everyone! In this 1969 VW Beetle episode, we install those shiny new axles and FINALLY get to adjusting and bleeding the brakes!
Enjoy!
This is the link to the super cool rotatey-ratchet I used in the video:
amzn.to/3kTdZ8S
The CV Grease I used:
amzn.to/30emKT0
Super cool video as usual! Also, you could get yourself a one way valve for the bleeding. It will save lots of time and the 'pump pump hold' would just be 'pump pump pump'
The 1/4'' version rotatey-ratchet looks pretty sweet also!
That rotary ratchet is very cool . I finally got rid of the front drum brakes on my '71 Beetle and installed new spindles and Disk brakes . Wow what a difference ! The brakes are so much better and they don't need to be adjusted constantly . I should have converted to disk brakes a long time ago ..
great help for my challenge...oh, did I mention? I'm 94 yrs. of age.
I searched YT for a tutorial on replacing the CV joint and came across yours. Thank you for your content! Your presentation and video production is top notch.
I'm never sure how engineers decide which fasteners should be dry, greased or thread-locked. Continuing to enjoy your videos. As a teacher I want to say you're an exceptional educator. Thank you.
Thanks so much!
For those of us missing old school Wheeler Dealers, your vids are a great substitute! Really enjoying this, keep up the good work!
Thanks!! I'd love to meet Ed. Seems like a really fun guy :)
we've had beetles in our family on and off for almost 60 yrs. Our methods are mirror image to yours. Old school is not dead yet, and with more younger people moving into beetle your videos,
your videos are a must....Don't stop now!!! Your doing a great presentation. John.
Hi there from KW Wiese I have found it helpful to remove a stuck star wheel - Find a slightly longer bolt with the same pitch , size & thread , oil is needed and sometimes a spacer as the bolt bottoms out - 1/8 threads left.
My goodness, another 1969 Yukon Yellow VW bug. I have named mine CAR = Cover of Abbey Road. I am certain you have seen the album. I believe she was bored with the Beatles tossing her to the curb taking 2nd place, so she decided to move on over here to Bug Garden where she has 5 more beetles and 2 vans to keep her company. 4 are protected, and the other 4 are yard ornamentation which are still very salvageable. I keep windows protected from hail and sun shining inside. Gardening takes most of my time, yet the VW's have been in my bones for 35 years. Bless your heart for this amazing video you produced. Well done!
Miss Franny....another spectacular video!!! Looks like one of the first things I need to order is a supply of silicone paste and anti-seize! Permatex and 3M should be sponsoring you by now! 🙂 Seriously though....I'm a firm believer in both, especially the anti-seize as it will certainly make your life easier (or someone else's) the next time around!
That twisty ratchet is fantastic. Once again, Heidi and Franny, you two make excellent content. 👍
Thanks so much! I just used that ratchet to pull out a couple spark plugs. Great for that too evidentially ;)
Took me until 20 minutes in before I noticed the ChrisFix shirt! 👍
We love Chris!
One more trick is to put teflon tape, or the liquid form from a can, on the bleeder threads. This prevents false positives of air induction through the threads of the bleeder. It also lubricates the bleeder so it won't be stuck 10 years from now. It will still be stuck LOL! but it won't be THAT stuck!
I know I’m really late on this, but an old timer mechanic told me that when you’re bleeding the brakes you have to have the cap on your reservoir on and tight so the pressure won’t escape through the reservoir and not through your lines. Intuitive, but as a young kid working on his bug for the first time, it was a revelation. Duh.
Awesome video thank you for sharing, now i feel more confident to Diy my front and back brakes
That's a cool wratchet Frannie 👍 . I also learned a new trick with your bungy cord to hold the axel up while you install it.
Very nice information explain the change of .new Axel and barke adjustment.
She responded to the CV bolts: "Torque? You Can't HANDLE The Torque!!"
Awesome articulate explanation that friction transmits the torque. Same as a wheel mounted on a hub, or flywheel mounted on the crankshaft. Nice.
No better way to finish the weekend in a relaxed mood than watching Fran working on a car. Even better, if it’s a beetle 😁.
BTW: HAZET 2582 is the perfect tool for the adjustment of the brakes.
I'll have to check that out!
Another quality "how to" video.
So cathartic watching you do VW maintenance.
AND! I cannot wait for a ride in Lemon Drop - weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Coming up!
Awesome job
I love the torque multiplier and twist rachet! Boy, could I ahve used those suckers back in the day.
My son and I LOVE your super helpful and entertaining vids! Well done and right to the point. They have guided us along our journey of repairing our 74 super beetle. Also we noticed the Chris Fix T-shirt (we love his excellent vids too!) and as a mechanic myself (aircraft), I appreciate your support of other mechanics. Keep at it!
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoy the videos :)
Awesome videos right to the point and very comprehensive and easy to understand 😀 👍
Thanks so much!
Love watching your videos. Easy to understand for someone who is learning to do all that. Great work!
I love youre video's!!! Greetings from the netherlands
Awesome!!! specially the new ratchet!
you two are GREAT! though I have seen mostly Franny, I am grateful.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video and your time.
You are very welcome
Love your You Tube channel! I just bought a 1971 Super Beetle with plans to restore it. Your videos are the best on You Tube. You go slow enough and provide sufficient details that we can use them as reference for actual repairs. I love that you work on VWs while owning a Porsche and now a BMW. Wish I could afford the Porsche!! Thanks for your great videos! BRUCE
I've got a 71 Bug, too . Her name is Peggy. How is the restoration going?
It's always a pleasure to watch yours videos, yours comments, the way you work on it, it"s professional ; I then apply it on my Beetle. Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
Thanks so much!
Thanks for the great videos, I started restoring 70 beetle, currently the car skids and slide even if someone pour a glass of water on the road, tires seems to be ok, all shock absorbers not working(must be changed soon) but anything else that I must check and fix considering safety is must priority for people in street and passengers. You guide is very much appreciated. Thanks
By the way, I fixed the steering play by just following up with you. Love your videos very informative as always
Great job
Thank you, great job!
That's a reallt good tutorial
Great video.
I get a lot of enjoyment from your episodes Franny, very clean and precise. I had a VW 1300 (Sydney, Australia) for 27 yrs and now very sorry that I sold it 28 yrs ago, it was in perfect condition with no rust. Incidentally the little bird you see on the left is a Rockwarbler, the only true endemic bird to NSW Australia.
Gotta say that this is my favorite RUclips channel by far! Thanks so much for such informative quality videos! A++
Yea! Thanks so much!
When pulling CV axles that are visibly old and worn, I opt for replacements. It’s cheaper to replace them, than trying to rebuild them. Time equals money, so when taking a mechanic’s time into account, it’s often cheaper to replace with new.
Hello, my name is John ("Hello, John!"), and I am addicted to Heidi and Franny's Garage...
I have been binge watching your channel. Congratulations on your promotion to my new personal hero, who takes on jobs I would have thought too big for me.
Probably because I don't have the right tools for the job...like a lift for one. I'm also amazed at your ability to stay up beat throughout a job...I would have summoned every swear word I knew (and probably invented a few) on that CV joint job you did.
See, I used to race a Neon ACR, and I love working on my cars, but I make my life harder by not investing in the proper tools. In the course of one race season, I've replaced my pads (4 wheel disk) six times (and as many oil and filter changes), realigned my front end (no toe - only 150 HP and nearly negative 3 degrees camber on the front end), replaced my rotors (I learned from the guy who designed the brake and suspension systems of the Neons - who used to race them too - that the thicker the metal, the better the dissipation of heat ,so I NEVER had a rotor machined), and replaced my front calipers - over the course of ownership, about 9 years and as many race seasons - 3 sets of front calipers which were the same as the Jeep Cherokee I had.
I love that stuff, but my wife refused to let my young girls sit with me while I was working out in the garage; once my youngest (about 4 at the time) got her hand squished between the shopping cart and the shelf. She let out a loud "Son of a..." and my wife suddenly became the object of stares from every mother in the grocery aisle. She thought fast and said, "No more working with Daddy in the Garage for you!" The other mothers instantly understood.
But I am fascinated with your videos on the drum brakes, which I think where designed by the devil. I got to the point where I could bleed the breaks on my Neon ACR in 15 minutes not including jacking the car on four jack stands. I'm 62 years old and remember how easy it was to work on those old, beautiful cars.
THANK YOU for the videos! Keep them coming!
This is a great story! There may have been a few choice words directed at the wind that day... In all fairness it was misbehaving and kinda had it commin' lol!
Great work Franny and great progress - looking forward to the next one ☝️
So glad I found your channel. Trying to get my 72 Super Beetle convertible up and running. It needs just about everything bumper to bumper. Watched several videos detailing the next several steps in it's restoration. Very , very helpful. Thanks and God bless. From sunny Arizona !
Franny and Heidi, the Mityvac MV series has brake bleeding kits that I have used for years that have made brake bleeding almost a one-person job.
This video stopped me in my tracks! Just like those renewed breaks! Thanks Franny! Hope you both are healthy and staying safe!
Brilliant again. Super informative and without over stressing when juggling drive shafts. Thanks for the wonderful content. 🤓🇬🇧👍🏻
Awesome!
Yes you got it! The 2 flanges between cv joint and transmission is where the torque should be transmitted or else the bolts will be in shear. The static friction for steel is around 0.6-0.15 (clean). (Fr) divided by the normal or perpendicular force (N) pushing the objects together. It is represented by the equation: fr = Fr/N. Sorry for the engineering talk, I couldn't help myself.
I love it when people talk engineering! :) Mu times normal baby...
Just did this 6 months ago..worst part was cleaning the allen head insides to make the socket fit all the way into the head to get them off.. Great tip on making sure bolts go in clean! Great work super clean VW!!
Yeah, they were pretty bad on this car. They were filled with dirt and then someone painted over them - seriously. Lol!
Great video. Very helpful!
That rotary ratchet is AWESOME-TASTIC!
Thanks for great videos, highly enjoyable learning.
Isn't it though? It is becoming my go-to!
What is it's actual name. Would like to get my hands in one as well.
Pretty easy on USA's market VW, try it on a Brazilian made with no independent suspension ,and on the floor!!
Also, I used to use Motul 600 - 600 BP dry, and 500 something boiling point wet. In racing (actually, Time Trials because I LIKE my fenders and paint) Motul 600 was golden, and so was Ford Blue. In fact, Motul was yellow, so ever OTHER time I bled the brakes I used it and in between I used Ford Blue. It was one sure way you could tell you were replacing the fluid in the system. Yellow, blue, yellow, blue...
Thank you Franny...your video had been very helpful. You are simply amazing. God bless you always.
Thanks so much!
Nice video..
Nice, learn the torque principle of the axle...CLEAN
Hi Franny, I noticed a “Pittsburgh “ marking on one of your tools. Any tool I should steer clear of from Harbor Freight? Love your videos. Never excessive on the intro, camera angles are awesome, and you cut right to the chase. I’m restoring a 71 Ghia and watch many of your videos to compliment and illustrate the idiots guide. Keep up the good work. 👍🏽
Harbor freight is great for those one off kind of use tools, plus they actually have a lifetime warranty. Keep in mind that they are for those one off uses. If you want some good solid tools to use a bunch, you might check into some other brands. Franny says that the HF tools don't always have an exact fit. For example, pricey Snap On tools are amazing. We just can't afford them. Heidi
Super clean Beetle. Great camera work as usual.
Hi Franny, love your clean way of working and how you make your vids. Your drum brake adjustment could use some fine tuning though:) Just telling you what I learned in as an army mechanic: Put the wheel back on before you adjust: Easier to turn plus in real life the wheel be on as well. Also realise which of the shoes is leading. One is leading driving forward and the other one is leading in reverse (in case of your Beetle). So turn the wheel in the correct direction for one shoe to lead and than adjust it i.e. clockwise for one shoe and counterclockwise for the other one. Hope this is clear and that it will help you next time. Love from Holland!
Never knew it’s friction that gets the torque across. It’s always good to learn :)
There was so much air in the system, I thouhgt they were air brakes ;)
I know, right! I did replace all the soft lines as well... I think I'll grab Heidi and go through them again just to be sure...
Great job! I love your attention to detail. Having said that I doubt brake fluid would absorb any critical amount of water in the small volume of air in a partially filled bottle. With a tight cap of course. Remember that the brake reservoir has a bleed hole to let air in to compensate for changing fluid levels. That's where the (damp air) water can get ''soaked up'' in the fluid and should be changed periodically.
Yes. Good point :)
Ok maam,,vontinew your blog,,
?
Kind of funny with the friction as my 911 from 73 has gaskets between the mating surfaces. By the way you need a pressure bleeder for all your cars. It is the best way of bleeding brakes and can be done solo 🤓. It has been some of the best investments I’ve made for specialized tools.
Xiranu she has a power bleeder
I do have a pressure bleeder that I use on the more modern cars but I think the lines between the reservoir and the master cylinder might pop off. Just paranoia. It is also great to feel the pedal form up.
I didn't know the 73 had that gasket. The 3.2 has them as well...
Hard to believe it's just friction driving those CV axles...if those bolts were to come loose the thing could just snap off!
...and they do. I first read about this on the 3.2 Carrera forums. Just a couple loose bolts and the others can share off pulling away from a light. I should have mentioned that after about 500 miles after installation you should go back and check the torque. Most modern CV installations have covers over the grease so it doesn't rely on the cups as a grease reservoir. I would guess electric cars have to be especially careful :)
@@HeidiandFranny In that case would it be beneficial to put Loc-Tite on the bolts or would that SCREW up torquing them down? 😂
I found out the hard way when I was in high school and some broke in my ‘69 Ghia. The car wouldn’t move. Got off easy...😉
There is a super special lock washers for those bolts. I've never seen thead lock spec'd for those bolts...
A very informative and helpful video! Love the channel!
Thanks!
Hi Heidi and Franny. Another great video. I have been dying to tell you that I have bought my first Porsche. It's a 2001 Porsche Carrera Cabriolet. It's Lapis Blue, Savanna Beige interior with a 6 speed manual transmission with only 35,000 miles. IMS bearing has been replaced as well as the RMS. To put it mildly I'm so excited. Just picked it up today. I still can't believe I own one of these beautiful cars. How is 3.2 Carrera going? Can't wait to see the next video. Thank you girls.
Great video good job 👍
Great!! THX for sharing 🙂
Another perfect job, and the cap is gone for a while......
Afraid so...
Hi Franny, who makes that interesting ratchet?
Hi. Link is in the description and pinned comment. It's awesome.
Do you have a video on removing and replacing a master cylinder and reservoir for a 67 bug?
No, Sorry, I don't.
me gusto la llave, muy practica
We are working on my 16 yold daughter’s 68 beetle. Changed everything in the brakes. Bosch shoes new springs. If the car goes forward after pushing on the brakes the shoes stuck and grind until we back up a few feet. Then they free up and everything is fine till she steps on the brake again. Any ideas? I’m fixing old cars for 30 years and never seen this before.
Bleeding is much easier using Motive Products pressure bleeder. Becomes a one person operation.
Great video; it would’ve been easier to just engage the emergency brake, instead of going through all the trouble of locking the rear shoes? I try to bleed all the brake fluid out of my car every two years to keep it clean.
Great point. I edited that out somehow... But yes that would work great - just that you have to keep going back into the car each time you have to release the brakes.
Hope you painted the new brake drums. Did you take them in and have a finish cut or final cut put on them? Always a good idea.
Great video’s and love your attention to details for the DIYers!
Do you have any recommendations regarding bleeding the brake system after installing a new Master Cylinder in a 69 VW Bug Conv? To Prime or not to Prime, that is the question?
Thanks again for the videos!
Email us on the website.
I know this is an old video but do you remember where and which CV axles you purchased? I can't tell if the ones I'm looking at online are pre-greased. Or do they all come pre-greased? Thanks Franny.
On a 1967 bug, are the rubber break lines supposed to be different lengths for a reason? If so do you have a video on that? It seems like I saw a video last year about this issue, because one wheel turns a greater distance. Please help soon. Thank you. Love your videos.
Email us on the website.
Just had a rebuild and my bleeder screw is on the bottom and brake line is on the top. Wondering if there’s different models/versions of cylinders or if this was a mistake when the rebuild happened. If this is common, how do you get rid of the air pocket in the line? Trying everything and still having issues…
Chris Fix fan?
Excellent! Just a question, is it me or does the transmission have a grinding noise? When you turned the axle shaft it didn't sound so great (partly from previous video). Thanks!
Hey there, where did you buy the axles from? Thanks
Hi ! Wow thank you what a great video !!!!! For any chance do you have a video how to replace a carburetor on a vw beetle 66 ? I was thinking to change the old 30pic to a 34pic
I don't but it is pretty straight forward... Just the two mount bolts at the bottom, the two electrical connections, fuel and throttle and a vacuum line if you need one (otherwise plug all the unused vacuum ports/tubes).
Heidi and Franny's Garage thank you ! So much !!
Hi guys we have purchased a vw beetle 1957 oval window , what would you recommend as a rust preventative for spraying under the body to keep it in good condition
Love the show watching from Riverton New Zealand
Thanks! Wow! a '57 oval :) I'm guessing your product might be a bit different than what is available her but the most important thing is to remove the rust first and not just cover it up. Also, it needs to be bone dry. The last thing you want to do is trap moisture under the coating.
U-POL RAPTOR. BEST EVER.
What i dont understand it why i have a flange on mine? Both side are not the same...
What to do when the star nut spring clip (keeper) is broken off the bottom of the anchor block?
Honestly the replacements are pretty inexpensive. Might be the easiest path. Otherwise if they are pinned in you would need to replace that.
Kinda tedious to use the brake adjusters to lock the drum. Might be easier to use a flat bar bolted to the drum with the far end bearing down on the lift ramp.
I totally agree! Good idea :)
Aren't the brakes on dual diagonal circuits?
Nice video, where did you get your axles from? Need some for my car.
Thanks! I think from CIP1 VW. I always like them for parts.
Thanks
What CV Axle did you use ? I need to replace the axles in my VW Rail buggy
Um... It was kit I believe from either cip1.com or JBug I believe.
Hello there
What kind of break fluid should I use on my 1971 super beetle brand new break system is it DOT3 or DOT4 ?
Cheers.
I use DOT 3 for drum brakes and 4 for disks. It is really about the temp. With drums the pistons are removed from the shoes but with disks they are literally right on the pads.
What did you change in the brakes before bleeding?
Oh gosh, everything! Leaking cylinders contaminated the pads :(
@@HeidiandFranny I just swapped out the rear brakes down to the cylinders also. There was something jamming the lines that ‘popped’ before the fluid would flow freely. Think I’ll do the master now also. Still getting rust bits in the clean fluid! Mine was as brown as yours as first. So nasty. Great video!
Heidi is there a personal way that I could contact you, I just bought a 1974 super beetle and I would just love for you help me getting my beetle back on top shape
You can email us through our website: www.heidiandfrannysgarage.com