PLEASE GO TO MY CHANNEL AND WATCH MY FULL TUTORIAL IF YOU ARE GOING TO ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR NEW NEW NEW UPDATE (LOL): . My AC stopped working again (3rd time). I checked for voltage, amperage, and resistance at the fuse box, and everything looked like it was a bad coil again. I took the passenger side wheel off and checked resistance at the coil, it was 3.78 (AKA good). Turns out, the connector had failed. If you search for "AC clutch coil connector" online, you won't find it. I had to dig and dig for it. I eventually found the connector. If you look up VVT SOLENOID CONNECTOR for you year make and model, you'll find the connector under part number S2860 (this was at O'Reilly's) here's a link to the connector. When you remove the old AC clutch coil, test the resistance on the bench. If the resistance looks good (3.5 ohms @68F +/-10%) it could very well just be the connector. Imagine that, some people get told they need a new compressor for $2000, when it could just be the connector for $15. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/standard-ignition-2-terminal-electrical-connector/std0/s2860/v/a/143437/automotive-van-2018-chrysler-pacifica?q=VVT+SOLENOID+CONNECTOR&pos=2 NEW NEW UPDATE: My new how to video has dropped. It has everything you need to know to diag and replace the AC clutch. Here's the link. ruclips.net/video/AsojLgcXubg/видео.htmlsi=W2aQhshiwzPJ9sRZ NEW UPDATE: I installed the new ac clutch assembly today and it is working agian. There is a lot of little tips i learned doing it for a second time (still was a pain in the butt!). I recorded everything i did and am going to get the video edited and posted soon. In the meantime, ive made a short to show how to test the ac clutch coil without removing the passenger side tire. Ill link it here ruclips.net/user/shortsfBHJWTwbT3E?si=fCPFFuBbzo--Cjx5 OLD UPDATE:My AC worked for 3 weeks before failing again. it is the same issue as before. I intend to make a new video with a more detailed how to process. I will actually do a replacement so you can see how to remove the old clutch assembly and reinstall while mounted in the vehicle. also, I'll show a few new ways you can test the clutch (without having to take off the wheel cowl). R&Y compressors has been a big hassle to work with on the warranty. they are trying to force me to return the whole compressor. instead of letting me just warranty the clutch coil. I plan on ordering a new AC clutch assembly from them for $140 in hopes it won't fail as quickly. I will link the new video once it's posted.**
Hey David! I'm going through a similar scenario. I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils, which wound up requiring me to unplug and unbolt some stuff. After re-attaching the air intake manifold and reattaching all the cables, only hot air will blow. I have tested the fuse, and I'm getting ~14V on each side of the fuse. I can see visibly that the clutch is not engaging. Since it was working before I did the spark plug work and not working after I was finished, I'm thinking I did something to cause the issue. I'd love to know about your technique for testing the clutch without taking off the wheel. I'd also be curious if you'd think that maybe the wiring down to the clutch itself might have gotten damaged, since the 14 V seems to be getting pushed at the fuse level.
@@BradleyTucker42 That's very interesting that after doing some repairs it doesn't work. I have wondered if there is a wiring problem to the clutch coil that is causing it to burn out prematurely. You would think the fuse would pop, but I feel there are scenarios where very light amounts of damage to the power wires could result in the coil burning up rather than popping the fuse. It makes me wonder if you agitated wires while doing your spark plugs and in turn the coil burned out. It's a coil didn't burn out, It could be that a wire is now open. Not able to complete the circuit. If that's the case, the method I found for testing the coil without taking off the tire will not work for you. My method assumes the wires are good. Going to the coil. You can remove the fuse, stick a 6-in 18 gauge wire from one side of the fuse to the other. This creates a loop that you can then clamp with a DC amp clamp. If you don't get any amp draw, you know the coil is not pulling a load. As far as I'm aware. If there is voltage to the f-20 fuse, there should be power going to the AC clutch coil. I believe all the other sensors and switches are before the power gets to the fuse box. Meaning the power goes directly from the fuse to the clutch coil. Hopefully my new video will help give you some answers. It's very rare for volt meters to have the ability to check DC amp draw. Most of them can only check AC amp draw.
This couldn't have come at a more perfect time. How coincidental! My girlfriend's 2017 Pacifica is having this issue and i was just about to have her order a compressor...So glad we didn't do that right off the bat. It appears to be the clutch assembly so we'll start with that. I can't say thank you enough!!! I was losing so much confidence in this repair because of the massive lack of good info regarding this particular repair. You are awesome!!! Thank you thank you again from both of us.
Excellent video. Had my 2017 Pacifica just checked and the refrigerant topped off and they think the clutch is bad so instead of paying them $1,400 to replace the whole thing I'm going to take the clutch off myself and test it. Thanks
@@David_PooleYes and Yes! It was a pain to do but I got it. Getting to the tensioner pulley was ridiculous. I had to use a special thin pulley wrench from O'Reilly's and a breaker bar to be able to move it...yikes. Such an inconvenient space to work in. I also removed the windshield washer fluid reservoir to give myself a little more room to work on the compressor. The little bolt holding the clutch in place was a bear to get out, then the clutch itself took forever to get out too....nothing was easy on that repair lol. But I honestly can't say thanks enough for your insight, it was so helpful. I would have replaced the entire compressor and spent so much more money and time than I needed.
@@loremipsum836 responses like this make my day. Super happy I could help. Thank you for coming back to let everyone know how it went and that the repair worked. Sorry to hear you had issues with the tensioner. I just posted a how to video going over an easier way to remove the belt. Hopefully you won't need to watch it anytime soon 😂
Thank you for making summer bearable. My AC is working again. I followed your instructions and it took me about 2.5 hours. Most of the time was spent pulling out the old parts.
@@IneedDisforwork I appreciate that. If you go to my channel, I've made a much more in depth video. For some reason Google doesn't show it as the first result despite it being the much better video. Hope it helps!
Thank you for coming back and reporting your experience. I'm sure it will help people to see the issues you spoke about awhile back and now can see that the coil replacement solved the problem
That plug/sensor on rear of compressor is a variable compressor control valve. Even when clutch is on compressor can just freespin. How much it pumps is controlled by that valve to achieve variable refrigerant flow. I believe it uses PWM(pulse width modulation) signal to valve so it’s hard to test. I’m a HVAC tech also and own a Pacifica that started having ac issues at 180,000.
That is so interesting. Thank you for sharing that information. I would imagine it has to be something with PWM. Possibly some sort of controlled bypass? That would be the simplest way to limit how hard the compressor is working. Given how overly complex everything else is, it's probably not the simplest solution lol. Did you see that the liquid line runs inside of the suction line before it enters the TXV? I thought that was super clever. It helps to guarantee the compressor receives a vapor, and make sure the liquid line doesn't flash gas on its way to the TXV. If you go to my channel I have a much more in depth video that covers the whole diagnosis and repair process
When there is not much info Online about a particular car problem that could be a good indication that it doesn't happen that frequently.....or that the problem was so easily fixed that it didn't rate a video.
The issue is brought up frequently on the Pacifica forum. Everyone before me would take it to the dealer and get told they need a new compressor. This model had only been out since 2017, so there hasn't been that much time for problems to arise outside of the manufacturer's warranty. Given that the companies who sell the AC clutch assembly are sold out of new models, and started selling just AC coils seems to indicate lots of people are having this issue, but before I made this video and others, most, if not all people were getting told they needed a whole new compressor. I think the lack of information is due to 2 factors: 1.) the car is newer, and has had less time to show failures. 2.) lots of people are having this issue but are covered under warranty and taking it to the dealer. In either case, the information on what's really going on is kept out of the public sphere. No one was talking about the AC clutch coil until I posted about it. Now people are sold out and coming back with story after story saying they were told they need a compressor and fixing it for 1/15th the price. I truly feel that I've uncovered a solution that wasn't even known by the dealerships.
I own a 2017 Pacifica, and I encountered an issue where I wasn't receiving voltage on either side of the A/C Clutch Fuse (F20). Seeking assistance, I visited a local reputable servicing chain. After waiting for four hours, they informed me that they were unable to load freon due to a low-pressure switch preventing them from filling it, suggesting I visit the dealer instead. Curiously, on my way back home, the AC turned on automatically and functioned normally for a day. However, upon testing the voltage at F20, I found 14 volts on both sides of the fuse. Yet, the following day, the same problem arose, with no voltage detected across the fuse on either side. What could possibly be causing this recurring issue?
Based on what you're describing, and what the shop said, I'd say your low on refrigerant. They tried to add some. It didn't work, so they told you to go to the dealer. You try the AC right after, and it works. Shortly after the refrigerant leaked back out and the low pressure switch tripped again. Based on the history of these cars, it may be your compressor that's leaking. If that's the case, the dealer is gonna tell you you need a new compressor, that's gonna run you close to $2,000. If you're handy, you can check to see if the low pressure switch is open. It's right there in the engine bay
@@David_Poole Thank you for the prompt response. Regarding the service center's inability to fill Freon, do you believe that a small amount might have entered and could potentially sustain the system despite a minor leak? Unfortunately, accessing the pressure switch in the Pacific is challenging due to its design, leaving limited space. I might have to remove the passenger side tire to inspect it thoroughly. Is there any other way to check using multi meter ?
@@RamakrishnaNVmanasa sorry for taking so long to get back to you. The low pressure sensor is located at the top of the engine bay and should be very easy to check. In theory, you could cut the wires going to the sensor and connect them to each other to bypass the sensor entirely. Or at the very least, get one of those wire splice connectors that allows you to connect two separate wires together without causing significant damage to the rubber sleeve. This would allow you to at least rule out the low pressure switch as the culprit. I may try to make a quick video tonight showing you how to do what I'm talking about.
Thank you for the video. I’m experiencing A/C issues as we roll into summer. Not receiving the call signal from F20 fuse. You mentioned in the video not receiving the signal may be due from low refrigerant? TIA!
Same issue. for me. 2017 Pacifica Touring L Plus, AC Clutch not engaging.. 104k miles.. Fuse at F20 has voltage across.. I'm trying to find what is the next easiest step? I believe to check the pressure at the low pressure port on the back firewall? I think i can buy R-1234yf and a gauge to see that? Excellent thread you have here by the way.. I found this via the Pacifica forums link a few weeks ago.. Thanks for all your help!! I have a feeling this thread is going to grow!! LOL :) Please let me know if you think easier for the induction coil or pressure sensors first.. Much appreciated!
If you have voltage to F20 it's not refrigerant related. You definitely have an AC clutch coil problem. I just recorded a video today of me replacing the AC clutch assembly. I suck at video editing and will have to edit it over the next few days. Don't waste your money on the refrigerant and gauge. The best next step you can do is pull off the passenger side tire and wheel cowl to test for voltage and resistance at the AC coil.
@@David_Poole thanks for the quick response.. After posting and rethinking, I was starting to think the same.. If there's power making it to the f20 fuse, the sensors are completing the circuit. So for other folks trouble shooting.. if there's no power to the f20 fuse, then it could be sensor related. Just for future use.. Would anyone know where the relavant sensors are? I've tried looking across the AC lines to locate. I believe to found only one sensor, just behind the passenger headlight, maybe 8 inches away, appears to be on the smaller, liquid line.. It has 3 pins. Not sure if this a pressure transducer, or high pressure sensor? Going in for the clutch coil next !!
Hi, thanks for detailed video. I’m planing to looking into do this but question for you first. I have 95k miles 2018 Pacifica suddenly stopped blowing out cool air on a very hot day. After spent $300 already, Chrysler dealer said they found no leaks and compressor is not actuating when prompted. They say HVAC code U0422 “implausible data received from BCM”. They said 80% confidence replacing the BCM will fix it. They also said they were able to turn on compressor via other means from phone. It’s another $500 for 80% confidence solution. Can you provide some thoughts? THANKS!!!
@@danhp4926 if they are able to turn on the compressor using other means, then it wouldn't be the clutch coil. When the coil fails, there is no way to get the compressor to engage through computer programming. You can check the coil yourself from the fuse box to see if it's within spec. Go to my channel to see my other video going over how to do this. Any basic multimeter should be able to check resistance
You may be having an issue with the ambient air temp sensor. If it's messed up the compressor won't engage. Might be worth asking them if they've checked it
Took it to dealership. They said clutch and coil was bad. They wanted too much to replace. Found another shop who replaced the compressor for about $970.00. the a/c worked on the way home, but later that day stopped working again. Any thoughts???
@@hussainimca the Mopar part is significantly more expensive, but may end up being the only one in stock if you are looking for a whole clutch assembly. R&Y compressors seems to only have the coils in stock, and only on Amazon. I tried to look up the clutch assembly on their website but didn't find anything. Implying they are out of stock. I don't think it matters which way you go. OEM or aftermarket are going to be damn near the same part.
I said that I'm an HVAC technician, not an 8 track technician. However, I am 27 and I know what a 8 track cassette is. Tell me you're a boomer without saying you're a boomer.
PLEASE GO TO MY CHANNEL AND WATCH MY FULL TUTORIAL IF YOU ARE GOING TO ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR
NEW NEW NEW UPDATE (LOL): . My AC stopped working again (3rd time). I checked for voltage, amperage, and resistance at the fuse box, and everything looked like it was a bad coil again. I took the passenger side wheel off and checked resistance at the coil, it was 3.78 (AKA good). Turns out, the connector had failed. If you search for "AC clutch coil connector" online, you won't find it. I had to dig and dig for it. I eventually found the connector. If you look up VVT SOLENOID CONNECTOR for you year make and model, you'll find the connector under part number S2860 (this was at O'Reilly's) here's a link to the connector. When you remove the old AC clutch coil, test the resistance on the bench. If the resistance looks good (3.5 ohms @68F +/-10%) it could very well just be the connector. Imagine that, some people get told they need a new compressor for $2000, when it could just be the connector for $15.
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/standard-ignition-2-terminal-electrical-connector/std0/s2860/v/a/143437/automotive-van-2018-chrysler-pacifica?q=VVT+SOLENOID+CONNECTOR&pos=2
NEW NEW UPDATE: My new how to video has dropped. It has everything you need to know to diag and replace the AC clutch. Here's the link.
ruclips.net/video/AsojLgcXubg/видео.htmlsi=W2aQhshiwzPJ9sRZ
NEW UPDATE: I installed the new ac clutch assembly today and it is working agian. There is a lot of little tips i learned doing it for a second time (still was a pain in the butt!). I recorded everything i did and am going to get the video edited and posted soon. In the meantime, ive made a short to show how to test the ac clutch coil without removing the passenger side tire. Ill link it here
ruclips.net/user/shortsfBHJWTwbT3E?si=fCPFFuBbzo--Cjx5
OLD UPDATE:My AC worked for 3 weeks before failing again. it is the same issue as before. I intend to make a new video with a more detailed how to process. I will actually do a replacement so you can see how to remove the old clutch assembly and reinstall while mounted in the vehicle. also, I'll show a few new ways you can test the clutch (without having to take off the wheel cowl). R&Y compressors has been a big hassle to work with on the warranty. they are trying to force me to return the whole compressor. instead of letting me just warranty the clutch coil. I plan on ordering a new AC clutch assembly from them for $140 in hopes it won't fail as quickly. I will link the new video once it's posted.**
Hey David! I'm going through a similar scenario. I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils, which wound up requiring me to unplug and unbolt some stuff. After re-attaching the air
intake manifold and reattaching all the cables, only hot air will blow. I have tested the fuse, and I'm getting ~14V on each side of the fuse. I can see visibly that the clutch is not engaging.
Since it was working before I did the spark plug work and not working after I was finished, I'm thinking I did something to cause the issue.
I'd love to know about your technique for testing the clutch without taking off the wheel. I'd also be curious if you'd think that maybe the wiring down to the clutch itself might have gotten damaged, since the 14 V seems to be getting pushed at the fuse level.
@@BradleyTucker42 That's very interesting that after doing some repairs it doesn't work. I have wondered if there is a wiring problem to the clutch coil that is causing it to burn out prematurely. You would think the fuse would pop, but I feel there are scenarios where very light amounts of damage to the power wires could result in the coil burning up rather than popping the fuse. It makes me wonder if you agitated wires while doing your spark plugs and in turn the coil burned out. It's a coil didn't burn out, It could be that a wire is now open. Not able to complete the circuit. If that's the case, the method I found for testing the coil without taking off the tire will not work for you. My method assumes the wires are good. Going to the coil. You can remove the fuse, stick a 6-in 18 gauge wire from one side of the fuse to the other. This creates a loop that you can then clamp with a DC amp clamp. If you don't get any amp draw, you know the coil is not pulling a load.
As far as I'm aware. If there is voltage to the f-20 fuse, there should be power going to the AC clutch coil. I believe all the other sensors and switches are before the power gets to the fuse box. Meaning the power goes directly from the fuse to the clutch coil. Hopefully my new video will help give you some answers. It's very rare for volt meters to have the ability to check DC amp draw. Most of them can only check AC amp draw.
I look forward to seeing this video!!
Can you give a quick note on the new testing methods you mentioned without removing the cowl?
@@nickcapuano1 my reply to this comment goes over how to do it
This couldn't have come at a more perfect time. How coincidental! My girlfriend's 2017 Pacifica is having this issue and i was just about to have her order a compressor...So glad we didn't do that right off the bat. It appears to be the clutch assembly so we'll start with that. I can't say thank you enough!!! I was losing so much confidence in this repair because of the massive lack of good info regarding this particular repair. You are awesome!!! Thank you thank you again from both of us.
Excellent video. Had my 2017 Pacifica just checked and the refrigerant topped off and they think the clutch is bad so instead of paying them $1,400 to replace the whole thing I'm going to take the clutch off myself and test it. Thanks
Were you able to get the AC clutch coil replaced? If so did it resolve your problem?
@@David_PooleYes and Yes! It was a pain to do but I got it. Getting to the tensioner pulley was ridiculous. I had to use a special thin pulley wrench from O'Reilly's and a breaker bar to be able to move it...yikes. Such an inconvenient space to work in. I also removed the windshield washer fluid reservoir to give myself a little more room to work on the compressor. The little bolt holding the clutch in place was a bear to get out, then the clutch itself took forever to get out too....nothing was easy on that repair lol. But I honestly can't say thanks enough for your insight, it was so helpful. I would have replaced the entire compressor and spent so much more money and time than I needed.
@@loremipsum836 responses like this make my day. Super happy I could help. Thank you for coming back to let everyone know how it went and that the repair worked. Sorry to hear you had issues with the tensioner. I just posted a how to video going over an easier way to remove the belt. Hopefully you won't need to watch it anytime soon 😂
Thank you for making summer bearable. My AC is working again. I followed your instructions and it took me about 2.5 hours. Most of the time was spent pulling out the old parts.
No need to apologize, this video was more helpful than any other one I've seen on here. Thank you!!
@@IneedDisforwork I appreciate that. If you go to my channel, I've made a much more in depth video. For some reason Google doesn't show it as the first result despite it being the much better video. Hope it helps!
thanks for your info
Iam also a H.V.A.C. Good Video. My 2017 Pacifica A.C. Isn’t working. Have a little knowledge on working on cars .So l will let you know how it goes .
Please do.
I completed the coil replacement two weeks ago now and all is working well, thanks for all the help!
Thank you for coming back and reporting your experience. I'm sure it will help people to see the issues you spoke about awhile back and now can see that the coil replacement solved the problem
That plug/sensor on rear of compressor is a variable compressor control valve. Even when clutch is on compressor can just freespin. How much it pumps is controlled by that valve to achieve variable refrigerant flow. I believe it uses PWM(pulse width modulation) signal to valve so it’s hard to test. I’m a HVAC tech also and own a Pacifica that started having ac issues at 180,000.
That is so interesting. Thank you for sharing that information. I would imagine it has to be something with PWM. Possibly some sort of controlled bypass? That would be the simplest way to limit how hard the compressor is working. Given how overly complex everything else is, it's probably not the simplest solution lol.
Did you see that the liquid line runs inside of the suction line before it enters the TXV? I thought that was super clever. It helps to guarantee the compressor receives a vapor, and make sure the liquid line doesn't flash gas on its way to the TXV. If you go to my channel I have a much more in depth video that covers the whole diagnosis and repair process
This is so helpful! Thank you!
When there is not much info Online about a particular car problem that could be a good indication that it doesn't happen that frequently.....or that the problem was so easily fixed that it didn't rate a video.
The issue is brought up frequently on the Pacifica forum. Everyone before me would take it to the dealer and get told they need a new compressor. This model had only been out since 2017, so there hasn't been that much time for problems to arise outside of the manufacturer's warranty.
Given that the companies who sell the AC clutch assembly are sold out of new models, and started selling just AC coils seems to indicate lots of people are having this issue, but before I made this video and others, most, if not all people were getting told they needed a whole new compressor.
I think the lack of information is due to 2 factors: 1.) the car is newer, and has had less time to show failures.
2.) lots of people are having this issue but are covered under warranty and taking it to the dealer.
In either case, the information on what's really going on is kept out of the public sphere. No one was talking about the AC clutch coil until I posted about it. Now people are sold out and coming back with story after story saying they were told they need a compressor and fixing it for 1/15th the price.
I truly feel that I've uncovered a solution that wasn't even known by the dealerships.
You are a good man 😊 to Share all the info so good
God bless you 😊
I own a 2017 Pacifica, and I encountered an issue where I wasn't receiving voltage on either side of the A/C Clutch Fuse (F20). Seeking assistance, I visited a local reputable servicing chain. After waiting for four hours, they informed me that they were unable to load freon due to a low-pressure switch preventing them from filling it, suggesting I visit the dealer instead. Curiously, on my way back home, the AC turned on automatically and functioned normally for a day. However, upon testing the voltage at F20, I found 14 volts on both sides of the fuse. Yet, the following day, the same problem arose, with no voltage detected across the fuse on either side. What could possibly be causing this recurring issue?
Based on what you're describing, and what the shop said, I'd say your low on refrigerant. They tried to add some. It didn't work, so they told you to go to the dealer. You try the AC right after, and it works. Shortly after the refrigerant leaked back out and the low pressure switch tripped again.
Based on the history of these cars, it may be your compressor that's leaking. If that's the case, the dealer is gonna tell you you need a new compressor, that's gonna run you close to $2,000.
If you're handy, you can check to see if the low pressure switch is open. It's right there in the engine bay
@@David_Poole Thank you for the prompt response. Regarding the service center's inability to fill Freon, do you believe that a small amount might have entered and could potentially sustain the system despite a minor leak? Unfortunately, accessing the pressure switch in the Pacific is challenging due to its design, leaving limited space. I might have to remove the passenger side tire to inspect it thoroughly.
Is there any other way to check using multi meter ?
@@RamakrishnaNVmanasa sorry for taking so long to get back to you. The low pressure sensor is located at the top of the engine bay and should be very easy to check. In theory, you could cut the wires going to the sensor and connect them to each other to bypass the sensor entirely. Or at the very least, get one of those wire splice connectors that allows you to connect two separate wires together without causing significant damage to the rubber sleeve. This would allow you to at least rule out the low pressure switch as the culprit. I may try to make a quick video tonight showing you how to do what I'm talking about.
2 previous times I've had issues with car AC has always been the clutch. I always check clutch before anything else unless you see an obvious leak.
@@glitch0156 I wish mechanics would learn to do the same
Thank you for the video. I’m experiencing A/C issues as we roll into summer. Not receiving the call signal from F20 fuse. You mentioned in the video not receiving the signal may be due from low refrigerant? TIA!
Yes, if you don't have 14v to F20 when setting the system to MAX AC, it's a sign something else is wrong. Refrigerant is a great first place to look
Same issue. for me. 2017 Pacifica Touring L Plus, AC Clutch not engaging.. 104k miles.. Fuse at F20 has voltage across.. I'm trying to find what is the next easiest step? I believe to check the pressure at the low pressure port on the back firewall? I think i can buy R-1234yf and a gauge to see that? Excellent thread you have here by the way.. I found this via the Pacifica forums link a few weeks ago.. Thanks for all your help!! I have a feeling this thread is going to grow!! LOL :) Please let me know if you think easier for the induction coil or pressure sensors first.. Much appreciated!
If you have voltage to F20 it's not refrigerant related. You definitely have an AC clutch coil problem. I just recorded a video today of me replacing the AC clutch assembly. I suck at video editing and will have to edit it over the next few days. Don't waste your money on the refrigerant and gauge. The best next step you can do is pull off the passenger side tire and wheel cowl to test for voltage and resistance at the AC coil.
Just made a short showing how to test the AC clutch coil without removing the passenger side tire
@@David_Poole thanks for the quick response.. After posting and rethinking, I was starting to think the same.. If there's power making it to the f20 fuse, the sensors are completing the circuit. So for other folks trouble shooting.. if there's no power to the f20 fuse, then it could be sensor related. Just for future use.. Would anyone know where the relavant sensors are? I've tried looking across the AC lines to locate. I believe to found only one sensor, just behind the passenger headlight, maybe 8 inches away, appears to be on the smaller, liquid line.. It has 3 pins. Not sure if this a pressure transducer, or high pressure sensor? Going in for the clutch coil next !!
Yep.. just realized in your first video, it explained that if sensor issue, f20 power would be cut..
@@sranthony3 gonna push to get the 2nd video uploaded tonight that way you have a guide on how to do it.
Hi, thanks for detailed video.
I’m planing to looking into do this but question for you first.
I have 95k miles 2018 Pacifica suddenly stopped blowing out cool air on a very hot day. After spent $300 already, Chrysler dealer said they found no leaks and compressor is not actuating when prompted. They say HVAC code U0422 “implausible data received from BCM”. They said 80% confidence replacing the BCM will fix it. They also said they were able to turn on compressor via other means from phone. It’s another $500 for 80% confidence solution. Can you provide some thoughts? THANKS!!!
@@danhp4926 if they are able to turn on the compressor using other means, then it wouldn't be the clutch coil. When the coil fails, there is no way to get the compressor to engage through computer programming. You can check the coil yourself from the fuse box to see if it's within spec. Go to my channel to see my other video going over how to do this. Any basic multimeter should be able to check resistance
You may be having an issue with the ambient air temp sensor. If it's messed up the compressor won't engage. Might be worth asking them if they've checked it
Will do. Thanks very much. I will check out your other video.
Great video. However, I'm only a novice. I've read it can take 4-6 hours to replace the compressor. Can you confirm this?
You don't have to replace the compressor if your issue is caused by a bad AC clutch coil. Go to my channel to see my how to video.
@@David_Poole thanks I'll check it out shortly and touch base. Much appreciated.
@@MrJoelgides what did you end up deciding?
Took it to dealership. They said clutch and coil was bad. They wanted too much to replace. Found another shop who replaced the compressor for about $970.00. the a/c worked on the way home, but later that day stopped working again. Any thoughts???
@@MrJoelgides bad connector. Probably was the issue the whole time.
Where can you find the replacement clutch assembly?
I have multiple links in the pinned comment and description. One of them is the replacement AC clutch assembly
Where can we buy the coil , pulley and compressor? Please provide the link ?
A link is in the description
RYC New A/C Compressor Clutch Coil AFH389-CO (Fits Chrysler Pacifica 3.6L 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022; Fits Chrysler Voyager 3.6L 2020, 2021, 2022) a.co/d/01huK763
Thanks a lot . I do not mind to pay 100$ dollar if it is from mopar . Do you recommend mopar or aftermarket? Thx in advance
@@hussainimca the Mopar part is significantly more expensive, but may end up being the only one in stock if you are looking for a whole clutch assembly. R&Y compressors seems to only have the coils in stock, and only on Amazon. I tried to look up the clutch assembly on their website but didn't find anything. Implying they are out of stock.
I don't think it matters which way you go. OEM or aftermarket are going to be damn near the same part.
Thanks a lot sir
your a give from god my friend thank you so much!
Be sure to check my channel for a full video on how to diagnose and replace the AC Clutch
What about the connector?
@@badger519 I cover issues surrounding the connector in the comments/description of my other video on my channel.
So the mechanic burn out the coil by crossing the leads and making contact with the coil...
@@Bandwidth2024 not sure I understand what you mean?
Wow..thank you..thank you...thankyou
I got you! Come back and comment if you do the repair yourself and share your experience
Also, go to my channel for a full guide on how to replace+ more diagnostic help
An "8-Track technician?" You sound so young I wouldn't think you even know what 8-Track cassettes are?
I said that I'm an HVAC technician, not an 8 track technician. However, I am 27 and I know what a 8 track cassette is. Tell me you're a boomer without saying you're a boomer.
@@David_Poole Just kidding. Love the video. Yeah, I'm a boomer. ;)
@@rael5469 lol, that's awesome. Thanks for watching