Brother, it's an honor to pass on knowledge about these things that are worth money. I don't understand how you have no more companions! Greetings from Montenegro and just keep going, because then the channel will grow!
Thanks for this, George. Just did my car - found it really useful to use a torch and my inspection camera to locate the "co" adjuster before tweaking it. Top Man!
Good job George and very well explained. Many cars not just BMW have this adjusted by turning the adjusting wheel to a position that shoes holds the drum so he can't move. And then back the adjusting wheel simply by 4-5 clicks. Shoes are at good position when is slightly rubbing against drum or disk when handbrake lever is down. Variations can be at stretched handbrake cables ant that can be adjusted inside of car.
If you've got a torque wrench and a suitable hub socket you can do this more precisely (and perfectly symmetrically): 1. With the cable loose, use the adjuster until you can't turn the hub with 60 Nm (44 lb ft), then back off ten clicks, 2. Pull the handbrake lever up six clicks, then tighten the cable a bit at a time until you can't turn the hub with that same torque. This is the way Range Rover recommends doing their electric handbrake, which is a BMW system.👍
Under the handbreak lever is a spring with a catch you are supposed to compress and lock that before you do the handbreak, it releases the spring tension on the two cables so you get them set even. Then tighten to lock the wheel then back off the cog 4 to 5 pings with the screwdriver.. Your method works fine but you need to let the spring off under the lever and put it back.
So you should first lift the car from rear then compress the lock under the handbreak lever and then tighten it from wheel boot side and then your good to go?
thanks buddy for this tip i think its going to save me a few quid as my hand break is on full and not holding the car! now i don't have to take it to a garage as i thought it was a complex job
Thanks and amazing all the videos replacing Automatic Electronic Emergency Brake Module and no checks for proper adjustment as you've referenced. Thanks again and keep up the great work... 😀
So my understanding is that you're supposed to go full lock on the adjustment, back off 8 clicks. But you're supposed to pull off the handbrake cover and use a spring clip to make sure you get the full lock after 3 clicks.
As someone has already mentioned, you have to put the spring/brake tension service mode under the handbrake before adjusting at the wheels. It's important because it releases the tension on the brake cables.
@@arnolduk123 No, the emergency brake is mechanical on the older cars not electronic. All you need to do is have the handbraker lever off, not engaged. This is a simple process, not complicated.
Hello George, Thank you so much for sharing this video. I have a loose handbreak. My name is Laura and I took my car to a garage and he said its going to cost me £250 that i have to replace the break shoes and labour. I was shocked that on Euro car parts the parts are not costing more than £40, real good quality one and this garage guy is asking for £250 !!!! its just like day light robbery. your video is very much helpful. i will ask my brother to help me after seeing your video. Is there anything else you would suggest
I've just done it set to 3 clicks. Lowered the car and it's now 5 clicks. Going to come back to this and do it pushing in the spring under the handbrake cable
Strictly, you have to unlock the break in the interior, to take all load off, then turn in the brakes until they are tight, then - for BMWs with auto adjusting brakes, e90, e60 etc - turn back 8 teeth and then lock the break in the interior again. For older BMWs, e46, e39 etc its only 2 teeth I believe. Thats the official BMW procedure. Anyway, I did it that way and the result sucks. Gonna try the freestyle version tomorrow or later today..
I just did this and I'm 99% sure all these videos are telling people to adjust their breaks so that they are catching the wheel even when the break is fully off. I'm almost certain you should tighten it till it catches the wheel then back it off, then go to the leaver spring itself and adjust it, as a loose hand-break is a mixture of the cable, drum, and lever spring all loosening over time. Surely you feel resistance when you're not accelerating by tightening the drum so much that it stops the wheel on the third click?
Great video, thanks dude. Mine has a bit of a weird issue. The garage adjusted the handbrake, however when the car is on a hill facing down, and when I release the handbrake - the car doesn't move. I need to put in first gear and drive down to literally move the car. When I'm driving down, the break pads making the noise as if they have been worn out. The pads are getting attached to disk maybe?
Hey George, thanks for this video. I have a MOT advisory that states "Parking brake efficiency only just met". The tester further informed me that it was "offside" that was under-performing (Nearside recorded 180 brake effort whilst Offside recorded 110). Would an adjustment like the one you've illustrated in this video correct this? or am I looking at a new cable or new handbrake shoes? Appreciate any advice.
Hi George. Thanks for your video. I have a 2010 E87 120d M Sport that has done 128,000 miles. My parking area outside my house is on a slight slope, so i can feel things slightly exaggerated when i park facing downhill. When i apply the parking brake and then remove my foot of the brake pedal it feels like the near-side is holding more than the off-side (near side almost feels like it's not doing much). I also now avoid using the parking brake (leave automatic in Park) because when i take the handbrake off the near-side doesn't appear to release fully - i can hear it squeaking at low speed. I'm not a mechanic. What should i ask Kwick-fit to do when it is there for its service in a couple of weeks please?
Quick question, I’ve heard that when the car is on axle stands, you should be more tight with the clicks as when you lower the car again the tension loosens. Is this true ? Thanks man, great video
I just did this about 1 hour ago on axle stands, I turned mine until i could feel the break catching the wheel, then loosened it a bit till it moved freely as I really don't think people should be adjusting it so that it's catching the wheel when the hand-break is off. But once lowering it back down and driving it, it seems like I have 2 clicks of nothing, so mine you have to pull it to the top to stop the wheel fully, but I'm almost certain that it's a mixture of the hand-break lever itself needing adjusting and the drums. What people are doing on these video's is just fully adjusting the drum until it stops the wheel on the 3rd click, but by doing that the break is catching the wheel when it's fully down which will 100% affect your economy and you will feel resistance when you stop accelerating.
I've done like in the video, and after the adjustment everything is nice but 2-3 days later I have to pull the handbrake up a lot again. Do you know what it could be?
Hey George hope you're well, Was changing rota on the rear passenger and after putting the new one on, now the hub won't turn or the rota? The adjuster screw won't turn in either direction either to loosen the handbrake shoes 😠 any ideas? TIA
Anyone have suggestions on how to better find the gear without taking the hub/rotor off? I tried to get it and my mechanic tried to get it (no charge) without taking it off.
i se what your saying,bot the only reson you put it in gear is that the car not shall roling so put it in 1 gear is allways right.it takes more forc to got it rolling in first gear than reverc and thats depend off the ratio in the gearbox. its lower in 1 gear than reverc you se..
In Sweden, where I live, cars won't pass inspection with a handbrake that doesn't work to their standards. I literally just found this out an hour ago when my E90 330xi didn't pass.
Brother, it's an honor to pass on knowledge about these things that are worth money. I don't understand how you have no more companions! Greetings from Montenegro and just keep going, because then the channel will grow!
Thanks man!
You can join my patreon if you wish!
www.patreon.com/GeorgeAusters
Thanks for this, George.
Just did my car - found it really useful to use a torch and my inspection camera to locate the "co" adjuster before tweaking it.
Top Man!
Good job George and very well explained. Many cars not just BMW have this adjusted by turning the adjusting wheel to a position that shoes holds the drum so he can't move. And then back the adjusting wheel simply by 4-5 clicks. Shoes are at good position when is slightly rubbing against drum or disk when handbrake lever is down. Variations can be at stretched handbrake cables ant that can be adjusted inside of car.
Thank you Mr T👍🏻
If you've got a torque wrench and a suitable hub socket you can do this more precisely (and perfectly symmetrically):
1. With the cable loose, use the adjuster until you can't turn the hub with 60 Nm (44 lb ft), then back off ten clicks,
2. Pull the handbrake lever up six clicks, then tighten the cable a bit at a time until you can't turn the hub with that same torque.
This is the way Range Rover recommends doing their electric handbrake, which is a BMW system.👍
What is the need of step 1 for this? Could you not just go straight ahead with step 2?
Under the handbreak lever is a spring with a catch you are supposed to compress and lock that before you do the handbreak, it releases the spring tension on the two cables so you get them set even. Then tighten to lock the wheel then back off the cog 4 to 5 pings with the screwdriver.. Your method works fine but you need to let the spring off under the lever and put it back.
So you should first lift the car from rear then compress the lock under the handbreak lever and then tighten it from wheel boot side and then your good to go?
yes, this the CORRECT procedure!
Thanks George. This gave me the confidence to adjust the handbrake on my 428i. More F32 /N20 maintenance tutorials please!
thanks buddy for this tip i think its going to save me a few quid as my hand break is on full and not holding the car! now i don't have to take it to a garage as i thought it was a complex job
Thanks and amazing all the videos replacing Automatic Electronic Emergency Brake Module and no checks for proper adjustment as you've referenced. Thanks again and keep up the great work... 😀
So my understanding is that you're supposed to go full lock on the adjustment, back off 8 clicks. But you're supposed to pull off the handbrake cover and use a spring clip to make sure you get the full lock after 3 clicks.
As someone has already mentioned, you have to put the spring/brake tension service mode under the handbrake before adjusting at the wheels. It's important because it releases the tension on the brake cables.
whats spring/brake tension service mode ? is it an OBD function ?
@@arnolduk123 No, the emergency brake is mechanical on the older cars not electronic. All you need to do is have the handbraker lever off, not engaged. This is a simple process, not complicated.
Yea thats exactly right
Hello George, Thank you so much for sharing this video. I have a loose handbreak. My name is Laura and I took my car to a garage and he said its going to cost me £250 that i have to replace the break shoes and labour. I was shocked that on Euro car parts the parts are not costing more than £40, real good quality one and this garage guy is asking for £250 !!!! its just like day light robbery. your video is very much helpful. i will ask my brother to help me after seeing your video. Is there anything else you would suggest
Good tutorial. Weirdly my F20 was the opposite to tighten!!!
I've just done it set to 3 clicks. Lowered the car and it's now 5 clicks. Going to come back to this and do it pushing in the spring under the handbrake cable
5 clicks is perfect👍🏻
Strictly, you have to unlock the break in the interior, to take all load off, then turn in the brakes until they are tight, then - for BMWs with auto adjusting brakes, e90, e60 etc - turn back 8 teeth and then lock the break in the interior again. For older BMWs, e46, e39 etc its only 2 teeth I believe. Thats the official BMW procedure. Anyway, I did it that way and the result sucks. Gonna try the freestyle version tomorrow or later today..
I just did this and I'm 99% sure all these videos are telling people to adjust their breaks so that they are catching the wheel even when the break is fully off. I'm almost certain you should tighten it till it catches the wheel then back it off, then go to the leaver spring itself and adjust it, as a loose hand-break is a mixture of the cable, drum, and lever spring all loosening over time. Surely you feel resistance when you're not accelerating by tightening the drum so much that it stops the wheel on the third click?
Thanks George great video 👍
excellent video and an excellent tutorial. I have a simillar system on a volvo, so this info will be useful
I'm happy with the explanation
This video helped alot! Thank bud!
Glad it helped!
Great video, thanks dude. Mine has a bit of a weird issue. The garage adjusted the handbrake, however when the car is on a hill facing down, and when I release the handbrake - the car doesn't move. I need to put in first gear and drive down to literally move the car. When I'm driving down, the break pads making the noise as if they have been worn out. The pads are getting attached to disk maybe?
Handbrake is too tight
thanks for reply, I thought it could be the handbrake shoes
Hey George, thanks for this video. I have a MOT advisory that states "Parking brake efficiency only just met". The tester further informed me that it was "offside" that was under-performing (Nearside recorded 180 brake effort whilst Offside recorded 110). Would an adjustment like the one you've illustrated in this video correct this? or am I looking at a new cable or new handbrake shoes? Appreciate any advice.
should be fine to just adjust it👍🏻
thanks
Great advice as always George 👍🏻
Cheers mate
Id say those holes between the screws are meant to perform this operation
mine holds down bank but upbank it rolls i dont get it? its on 4 clicks any ideas?
I love how you skip all the wasted time like removing lug nuts, and pointless intros, etc
Appreciate it
Hi George. Thanks for your video. I have a 2010 E87 120d M Sport that has done 128,000 miles. My parking area outside my house is on a slight slope, so i can feel things slightly exaggerated when i park facing downhill. When i apply the parking brake and then remove my foot of the brake pedal it feels like the near-side is holding more than the off-side (near side almost feels like it's not doing much). I also now avoid using the parking brake (leave automatic in Park) because when i take the handbrake off the near-side doesn't appear to release fully - i can hear it squeaking at low speed. I'm not a mechanic. What should i ask Kwick-fit to do when it is there for its service in a couple of weeks please?
Quick question, I’ve heard that when the car is on axle stands, you should be more tight with the clicks as when you lower the car again the tension loosens. Is this true ? Thanks man, great video
I just did this about 1 hour ago on axle stands, I turned mine until i could feel the break catching the wheel, then loosened it a bit till it moved freely as I really don't think people should be adjusting it so that it's catching the wheel when the hand-break is off. But once lowering it back down and driving it, it seems like I have 2 clicks of nothing, so mine you have to pull it to the top to stop the wheel fully, but I'm almost certain that it's a mixture of the hand-break lever itself needing adjusting and the drums. What people are doing on these video's is just fully adjusting the drum until it stops the wheel on the 3rd click, but by doing that the break is catching the wheel when it's fully down which will 100% affect your economy and you will feel resistance when you stop accelerating.
JTR thank you very much for the information mate, I just wanted to make sure I’m doing the right thing before moving on👍🏼
👍🏻
Good Job mate.. defo need get that sorted on mine.
Cheers mate!
Hi mate where did you get your jacks from? A link with the same as your's would be appreciated :)
I've done like in the video, and after the adjustment everything is nice but 2-3 days later I have to pull the handbrake up a lot again. Do you know what it could be?
Sounds like either worn shoes or stretched cable?
because this is not the correct way to do it.
Valable pour E46??
Great video bro
Thanks bro
Hey George hope you're well, Was changing rota on the rear passenger and after putting the new one on, now the hub won't turn or the rota? The adjuster screw won't turn in either direction either to loosen the handbrake shoes 😠 any ideas? TIA
Buy a new adjuster. If everything else in there is rusted up as well, might be worth the time and money to just replace the handbrake components.
Anyone have suggestions on how to better find the gear without taking the hub/rotor off? I tried to get it and my mechanic tried to get it (no charge) without taking it off.
Shine light through wheel bolt hole
Great video thanks mate
Very good video, very informative, thank you
Thanks
Thanks
@@GeorgeAusters I've just subscribed too btw! 👍👍
Wont that effect the movement of the car becuase now theres resistance on the wheel when you make it that tight
Hate bmw handbrake 😆, you should do a air con Re gas on your e87🙏
It doesn’t need a regas👍🏻
Is it the same on a bmw 530i -06?
did you have the front of the car jacked up as well, why?
Because I was doing other jobs as well
for right side need to push down direction and left side push up direction right?
Can you confirm the directions to push, please?
@@harrymoon6060 I think right side wheel need to push down direction and instead for left side
@@nikmohdrostamniksoh4457 Thank you. Already made the adjustment, very simple and quick.
On E60 isn t The same Like this??
Thank you
Welcome as always Rikki!
my e87 has the same problem i have herd this is common issue with them, do the shoes ever ware out?
In theory the handbrake shoes shouldn’t wear out unless you’re driving with the parking brake engaged... My parking brake is perfect now👌🏼
What impact wrench would you recommend mate,?
I'd recommend both of these:
Small Impact Wrench: amzn.to/2T4igdi
Big Impact Wrench: amzn.to/39NOrEu
👍🏼
Why lev it in reverce, 1 gear is always lower ratio than reverce
Reverse if you're facing down hill, 1st gear if you're facing up hill
i se what your saying,bot the only reson you put it in gear is that the car not shall roling so put it in 1 gear is allways right.it takes more forc to got it rolling in first gear than reverc and thats depend off the ratio in the gearbox. its lower in 1 gear than reverc you se..
In Sweden, where I live, cars won't pass inspection with a handbrake that doesn't work to their standards. I literally just found this out an hour ago when my E90 330xi didn't pass.
You use the word obviously far to often. If someone had never done this job before nothing is obvious
I guess it was only obvious to my viewers at the time but this video has gained many thousands more views since👍🏻
Are you the president of ukraine
thanks bro👍