Testing Cheap Epoxies $169 VS $309
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- This video was made in response to the question "why not just use a cheaper epoxy" that we get all the time, and this is our response to that question!
0:00 - 1:38 - Intro
1:39 - 4:03 - Cutting + Debarking
4:04 - 12:44 Pouring
12:45 - 14:06 Checking in on Pours with Charlie
14:07 - 20:43 - Demoulding
20:44 - 23:16 - Outro
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Seeing a lot of comments asking why we compared our product to cheap epoxies and that's because what actually inspired us to do this video was a comment we get all the time which is "why not just use a cheaper epoxy" and this is our response to that question!
Do a test against someone like E2U, marblewrap, purepoxy, marblite, The Juice. Then show results and ill be sold
No. I do not trust that result. Your dumped the two competitors. And gently drizzled yours in. And recorded it. Lol this is BS.
Do my own test then? What? Ok send me all three epoxies. I’ll record fair results and send you the video. Post to your channel.
The pouring method, in your test, makes your results look and feel rigged. Unequal
Plus you need to show a feed from mixing to pouring with no edits in the video. Because people with experience know that you can induce air into epoxy. So we need to know its a fair test
would be interesting to see Chemtec resin VRs your epoxy
This was a decent test with somewhat unknown companies. I would however like to see this same test with companies that are better known in the epoxy world like Total Boat, Stone Coat, Pro marine and Mas. It would make a good video.
Liquid Glass is another great one to add to the test subjects
We’ll have to try something like that for another test, I like that idea!
GlassCast 50 would be another to try?
Also Alumilite Amazing Deep Pour should be tossed into the mix!
Call me cynical, but I would like to see the same test carried out by someone who didn't have a vested interest in the company selling the resin.
Perfectionist.... you dumped the two competitions when pouring. And gently filled the one with yours.. not a legit test. Anyone who noticed this would probably no longer trust your products.
noticed this aswell...
Also they showed that they did not mix both of the competition's epoxy with exact measurements. Go to mix theirs and boom theirs is mixed off camera and ready to go.
yeye wouldn't be surprised if he used the vacuum chamber to his epoxy
Why didn't he remove the air bubbles with a blow torch like you normally would. If he would have done the PP would have won the test.
Yeah the fact they didn’t show them mixing their own product is highly suspicious, if you mix with a drill and paddle it puts a hell of a lot of bubbles in the mix, also they could of used a heat gun or torch on their own product to get rid of bubbles or degassed it off camera and obviously like you said poured their own product very carefully unlike the others.
I use glasscast 50 and it’s not yellow like theirs, I’ve also tried some cheaper alternatives which were very good but micro bubbles were an issue without degassing, from my limited experience almost any deep pour epoxy will come out perfect if degassed and kept cool.
I really do think they did something to help their product come out clearer because the other two actually looked better quality although it was definitely strange that the gorilla epoxy shone red with the light 🤔
It would be interesting to see how each of these resins machine and take a finish.
We might just have to make a part 2!
Hmm well bubbles tend to be on the user to degas/torch so that seems kinda unfair to say yours is better just because of that. Also it seems that Gorilla stuff was actually better and clearer than yours with that blue refractive to prevent any yellowing. Definitely think Id choose it over your stuff.
Now I will add that some resins are so thick that the bubbles wont come out.
My issue was watch the speed at which they were poured in. They poured theirs far slower which is obviously going to be a large factor for bubbles. Im not saying theirs is bad or any others are better, I just dont think this was super transparent (Slight pun intended)
@@taylorhunt5459 k
the giggle after every time "PP" is said made my day.
Hahaha I'm glad!
This felt like more of an ad than a real comparison. You left off all of your major competitors :P
Yeah I use super clear liquid glass. I’ve used around 6 gallons and never had an issue and I’ve also poured up to 3 inches thick. It cost $22 per liter in a 3 gallon package.
Like a Smooth-on product?
@@alexanderpitman9433 I’m sorry?
American company that sells industrial resins along with various mold making materials. Easiest way to get what you're looking for is to call them during their business hours.
Great video!!! Thanks for showing all of us how your product stacks up against other brands. As always, fantastic job!!!
Thank you John 😁
So this is a 23 minute long advert?
This is a perfect example as to why a Sales man is considered a Con man. He keeps talking until he Convinces you to buy his product.
The blue epoxy absorbs/scatters blue light just like our atmosphere, thats what makes the flashlight look red when shining through from the side. Just like how the sunlight turns more orange/red at sunset/dawn cuz the light has to travel through more atmosphere when the sun is low in the sky.
Thank you for the explanation!
was about to mention the same.
This is what i originally was thinking, but if it was something in the epoxy scattering the blue wavelengths, then the epoxy would appear blue not red. But on the other hand, if it we're the relatively large bubbles causing the longer red wavelengths to scatter, then the epoxy would appear red but i would have thought the light towards the end of the epoxy or where its exiting the epoxy would appear blueish as it had lost the red wavelengths from the scattering. But the epoxy did seem to look consistently red, so I'm not sure! lol... Would really need to look at the edge oi the epoxy, where the light is exiting and see if its blueish or at least a different colour than the red when looking at the face of the epoxy. But that doesn't explain why the other bubbly epoxy stayed clear when the white light traveled through it!
Where's a physicist when ya need one!?!??
@@steveirwin_8276 Within the visible range of light, red light waves are scattered the least by atmospheric gas molecules. So at sunrise and sunset, when the sunlight travels a long path through the atmosphere to reach our eyes, the blue light has been mostly removed, leaving mostly red and yellow light remaining. The result is that the sunlight takes on an orange or red cast, which we can see reflected from clouds or other objects as a colorful sunset (or sunrise). I just googled "why is sunset red" and this was the answer. I think that is what happens here, when light is shining in from the side most of the blue light is scattered enough times and lost(absorbed) before it has a chance to leave the resin. If you go to 19:37 you can see it has a red tint in normal light aswell, unless that is his shirt reflecting but I think it looks red. With a strong flashlight in a dark room I think just makes the effect appear stronger.
@@Agegn yes I understand that, but it's only orange/red when traveling parallel to the atmosphere, which as you said, happens at sunset & sunrise and causes all of the blue wavelengths to be scattered away from us before the light gets to us. But when the sun is directly above us and only traveling through a small slither of atmosphere, the blue wavelengths are scattered so thinly and close to us, that we see the sky as blue. And based on the fact we can see the very point where the white light enters the resin, that should appear blue and where the light is exiting should appear more red because of the distance of particles the light has travelled through where the light enters is the equivalent of when the sun is directly above us i.e sky is blue and where it's exiting is the equivalent of when the sun is setting i.e sky is more red...
You are right in what your saying, but your leaving out the fact that the sky is blue for the majority of the day. Which isn't replicated at all in the resin. Hence my opinion that something else is happening. I don't doubt that it's something to do with Lightwaves reacting/scattering with something in the resin. Blue lightwaves only react with our atmosphere because the frequency of blue lightwaves match the size of the particles in our atmosphere. So perhaps whatever particles are in the resin match the frequency of red lightwaves?
There are so many brands of epoxy resin, it would be awsome to see you guys continue testing different brands now and then. Always great work keep it up!
Maybe in the future!
Loads of channels have done really comprehensive resin tests with upwards of 10 resin products. _Matt's Woodworks_ channel has a really excellent, scientific test lab of 13(?) I think it was: ruclips.net/video/aEoMvZe8KQ8/видео.html
I used the cheapest option on a coffee table and honestly this comes down to following the instructions, mine turned out fantastic, I had no complaints with the product. Need to remember they are showing off their product so of course they aren’t going to try and make the others look good... I did mine in the Canadian fall in a non heated shed, I was just heating it with a baseboard heater and it actually turned out minus my mistakes of course. Great video showing the differences but keep applications and possible bias in mind :)
Alrighty it’s that time again. Though the video was very entertaining and Charlie’s words of wisdom at the beginning really warmed my heart, we need more Brad. He is a staple in the RUclips community and he must be shown off. That is all for today.
Hahaha okay agreed, we'll try to force him to be in this week's video!
I have used the pourable plastic for a few months now and haven't had the bubbling issue you had when pouring clear boards. The one difference is I'm only pouring 1/2" to 1.5" thick and it seems to be best at 1" or so thick pours. Another difference is I am also pouring in an open shop in Texas so I might have better air flow than a room. For what its worth being that I have only used about 50 gallons of pourable plastic, I would try to stick around 1"-1.25" pours with that product to achieve best results with it.
Thanks for the comparison. I like this slight deviation from the usual content. I also echo that I'd like to see a finished product to really compare.
We can show the finished product in our video this week! And I'm glad you enjoyed this type of content!
Love the glasses when your pouring the epoxies, like Doc Brown. "Roads...Where we're going, we don't need roads."
Hahaha thanks Anthony!
GREAT INTRO! The snoopin schnauzer is at it again. Awesome content as usual!
Hahaha yes, thanks Gabriel!
LOVE this type of video! Great job! Let people know what your value proposition is!
Thank you 🙌😁
Id also like to see comparison with stone coat and total boat epoxy as well. At the moment im using stone coat and love it. Didnt really care for leggari line of products just due to way over priced for the quality. Im a fairly new subscriber to channel and just wanted to say i enjoy watching your videos and thankyou for posting them!
Every time you said pp the little laugh that I heard made me laugh. 🤣😂
Haha I’m glad that made you laugh too 🤣
Hopefully come back to these examples in like 6 months and see if there is any discoloring? Would love to see a longevity test among these less expensive types.
The home gamer, I would suggest sticking to thinner poors. Easier to get bubbles out with a torch.
Hi Black Forest, thanks for the video. If we were adding in a pigment would the bubbles be a problem still? What is it in an expensive epoxy compared to a cheaper epoxy that varies to give the different results you found? Is their some factor in the manufacturing stage that can be varied resulting in a cheaper epoxy but it also gives cheaper results. An explanation behind the reasoning for how some epoxy resins are cheaper would be good to hear? Excellent work over all. Will be watching some more of your videos. Thank you
If you torch it the bubbles come out during the curing phase?
I can't believe it the company that manufactures this really expensive epoxy and is also reviewing and comparing there really expensive epoxy found that there's is so much superior...I'm genuinely shocked at this...keep on trying to justify that ridiculous price point. I would love to meet the person who turned this video on and didn't think there's would be the best one, I've used incredible solutions many times and several clear ones and have never seen it look that way when done correctly
Hey Dylan,
I remember in science (a long,long time ago!), when we shone a light through different shaped prisms. The colour spectrum (A rainbow) was shining through because of the refractive properties of the prism. Maybe because a light inhibitor was in the gorilla resin, the only light that could refractive was the red spectrum. Just a thought....
I am making a coloured small wood pieces table . what are thepros and cons if I use a polyester resin for the colour and later on use a thin layer of table top epoxy to give it a glossy smooth surface. Also can clear glossy polyurethane finish be used on top of epoxy ? Whats your advise.
Howdy! Love the videos and amazing projects you guys do. I’m starting to do my own small resin projects and have been looking into epoxy resin safety. I’m wondering since you guys are experts, if you could do a video highlighting the safety precautions you guys take when working with resin? I rarely see gloves and respirators in any resin art videos but I’ve heard they are almost mandatory if you want to stay healthy working with the product.
We absolutely can do a video like that! We’re filming a part 2 for this so I’ll be sure to go over safety aspects.
Thank you, I’m sure others besides myself would also appreciate it.
You only need a respirator when sanding epoxy. You don’t want the particles going in your lungs but when it’s fresh there’s no dangerous fumes.
It didn’t seem like you poured all 3 at an equal rate. You poured the Black Forest very slowly and close to the edge of the mold while you poured the other two much more aggressively and much further away from the edge of the mold. Hard to get much out of this comparison. I think a better test would be to take all the appropriate steps to avoid bubbles in the first place and then compare them.
are there epoxies that can be sprayed ontoo wood with a normal paintgun like automotive clearcoat ?
i want to make a kichencounter and spray on multiple realy thick coats of paint (thick for paintlayers at about 1 mm per layer ) since the part is laying flat and the sides are surounded with pour moulding i was hoping for less bubbles and mabe using epoxy with a faster drying time , will use flame to pop surface bubbles and likely sand out dust particles between layers
I know I have used pourable plastic and I found that I had to take a heat gun to it after pouring then like another hour later and then one more time after that to get the bubbles out. Then it was about as clear as yours. But had to put way more work into it and risk more dust particles getting in it.
Very eye-opening. Definitely would like to try out your resin sometime. Do you have a video on how you degas your resin? If not, would you be able to show that in a future video? Thanks!
We have showed it before but I honestly can’t remember what video it was in. I’ll make sure we go over it for our next pour!
@@BlackForestWoodCo That would be greatly appreciated!
great test, mind you I only use your epoxy so I might be bios, thanks for doing this vid have a great next week and ill see ya next week
Thanks Tim!!
What do you usually use to cover up your pours?
I would love to see how you degas your larger projects.
What about apoxy pours 1 inch, no thicker? Looking to do a few art pieces to hang on my wall.
is there something you could do to cast the cheap without bubbles?
I have seen in some videos that they take a heat gun to it after they pour. Is that to get rid of the bubbles?
Just curious if all were torched originally for the bubbles, and also were they over the 2” suggested level? Great job though.
Never heard of that Gorilla epoxy - but I've seen a ton of professionals use that pourable plastic and get decent results. I always used the Liquid Glass epoxy and it turns out great on deep pours - same cost as the pourable plastic.
Question,
What is de-gasing ? And why wouldn't you use a torch to remove the bubbles for your test ? Sorry for the questions, I am still learning how to do it
Does degassing them help with the clarity or reducing bubbles?
gr8. really interesting results
Thanks Gerhard!!
Interesting tutorial - thanks. Stay safe
Thanks Robert! You too!!
Have you tried Total Boat epoxy? They have been around awhile and I've seen it used on RUclips for bowl turning with lots of different media cast into the pour. Thanks for the epoxy shootout. Eye opening. ✌
No we haven’t!
I was happy to see it was over 20 minutes. More Charlie time. Ok, more Dylan time too.
Haha thanks as always Scott 😁
as far as pouring, the epoxy brand i use recommends heat gun or torching to remove air bubbles about every 1/2 inch, as you go. I know your epoxy doesn't require that, but where there any recommendations on the other products you tested, for removing bubbles with a torch or heat gun?
,
The gorillapoxy recommended a torch. We only advise people to use a torch in thin layers as the torch only works for surface bubbles. If you use it on a casting pour you run the risk of flash curing the surface and preventing other bubbles from rising.
@@BlackForestWoodCo so what you are saying is that you didn't follow the directions. Which is basically not a test of their products given they have different directions to yours.
It is like testing box cake brands and following the directions for your own brand then saying because your brand only needs 1 egg and less liquid that the other box cakes don't result in good cake.
Does your product have good directions on storing, mixing and finishing?
interesting , what temperature do you have the room at ?
What do you use to degas?
Dylan, your videos are great and informational, QUESTION: I notice you don’t seal the wood with epoxy before pours, how do you keep the bubbles off the wood’s edges?
Our resin cures very slow and does not heat up, because of this it allows everything to cure bubble free!
Is there a follow up video to this that addresses everyone’s concerns about the testing procedures?
If you ever do another test I would love if you could test Ecopoxy against your Black Forest resin!
We actually used to use Ecopoxy for the first couple of years, you can go back and look at our first videos and see the difference. We think Ecopoxy is good but for us, we needed something better because we were always left with so many bubbles in our tables so that's why we started looking at other brands and then eventually formulated our own so we could get the exact result we were looking for!
Should’ve try Mix all 3 Epoxy into 1 & make a 4th Piece.
Haha that would be interesting to try
Drinking Kava tea after a long day working in the lab at Pfizer and watching your videos. Absolutely love this
Thank you 🙌
I’ve made twelve river boards at 1.5” thick with the Incredible Solutions epoxy and I have never had that bubble issue
Thanks for doing this review. Why didn't you mix your product on camera like you did the others?
Good test,yes want video on RUclips 👍👍
Greats from Holland
Thanks Ben!
love it quite interesting
Thanks Ryan!
Could use the bubbling ones to get light effects in the resin as well, thanks for the comparison. Was also laughing when you where saying pp.
That might actually look kind of cool!
Once it's fully cured, do a follow up video of sanding and finishing? Also, wish you had included Amazing Clear Cast Deep Pour, a well known brand rather than just random unheard of brands off Amazon. Good old hind-sight, lol
It’s no wonder you guys formulated your own good job
Thanks Eric!
So Jeff Mack uses a heat gun to pop those bubbles. What’s the difference between your resin and Jeff Mack (out of Ontario). Not trying to stir the pot but very interested in it.
About the red on the blue-ish epoxy: Couldn't the color come out of the bubbles diffraction? It's optics at it's best: if the bubbles are about the size of red wavelenght, they will cause the reflectance of this section of spectrum, meaning you will be able to see red. In the same manner, one can look at a piece of colored paper and the color that is getting reflected is what you see in the paper, all other colors (wavelenghts) are absorbed.
May i leave you a 'hint'? Surface area/volume = height. You could've just said "height", can help a lot of non-physicians to grasp the idea ;) Nice work though, just getting to know your channel and am loving the content, thumbs up for you guys!
Very interesting.
Thanks John!
thumbs up for the mic nibbling from the dahg
you like dahgs, i like dahgs too
I have a question when it comes to wood finishes. I make walking and hiking sticks and also irisb shillelaghs. I use mostly blackthorn wood to make my sticks. I do all the cutting and seasoning myself. After about 2 years of drying and work then wood and give it a nice shape. When it comes to finishing I use boiled linseed oil. What would you recommend using as a finish? You must consider wear and tear and also weather. Thanks in advance.
-Joe
I wonder how rubio monocoat would hold up in that application
What I would have liked to see (Sadly I know this would cost a fair bit to test) but would be thinner pours. You know like they say is recommended. 1" to 2" max instead of like a 4" pour and see what difference that makes. But its still a good test of over doing things and seeing where things go
We plan on doing more tests so we can try something like that in the future!!
I actually like the GP look when the lights were off and the light hit it in my opinion. To each his own..
Have you tried Amazon a to z claim to get your money back? Great video. Very interesting to see how other products perform.
Perfect resins if you're looking for a fizzy drink effect :)
Haha very true!
Is your epoxy self leveling?
I would like you to do some final cure hardness and durability tests of the different epoxies. To me the cost of doing epoxy projects and the lack of durability is a negative against epoxy in general
Love he initial look but as a tabletop or coffee table makes me 2nd guess the value
It might be interesting to put those epoxies outside for sun/UV exposer and see how they look like adter couple of months/year
Yes, we might have to do that!
And Dylan actually kept a test piece of epoxy and wood in his truck bed for a year straight to test the epoxy to wood bond and UV protection and it actually looked basically the same as it did when he first put it in, except the wood looked a little weathered of course haha! I'll have to ask if he has before and after pics
Very very cool experiment, I know if I lived over there, I would lash out & buy your brand, but living in Australia 🇦🇺 it would coast waaaaaaaay to much to ship over
That was very interesting, and definitely showcased the superior quality of your home brand !
Being inquisitive, further comparisons between yours and perhaps other RUclipsr brands could prove interesting !!!
Yeah, we were thinking about possibly trying to do bottle castings with other brands because the bottle castings really push the limits since they're so tall and thick!
Yes do a more scientific comparison next time as well. Same volume of epoxy to same size wood in same mold size. Do more of your competitors epoxy. MAS, Total Boat, Ecopoxy, Liquad Glass along with durometer. Would be most beneficial to your customers. Still waiting on ceramic testing as well. My slabs have arrived finally and picking them up this Monday. They be put to work once weather starts to warm up in a few months and this info would help me decide which is best on the market vs price. Thank you.
i've seen other epoxy users torch the surface after pour to "get rid of bubbles". or, what about vibrating the wet epoxy to bring the bubbles to the surface?
Agreed
All my polyethylene resin pours generates some bubble and all you do is pop the bubble with a torch and it’s even more crystal clear than all 3
Using a torch only really works when pouring thin layers as the torch will only pop the surface bubbles. A torch will do nothing for bubbles trapped within the pour. By using a torch on thick pours you actually run the risk of flash curing the surface and preventing any other bubbles from rising.
Vibrating creates agitation which can create more bubbles. The best thing is to warm the epoxy and the mold beforehand. Torching takes some skill. As stated it can cure the surface.
Ideally you can pressurize the entire mold to about 60psi. This shrinks any bubbles to microscopic size. But the size of what they work with, a pressure chamber would be very expensive.
@@BlackForestWoodCo I am not sure that is accurate, I have seen the Russian epoxy people pour pretty thick as well, and I have seen them spray something on the surface to get rid of bubbles, and I have seen others use a blow torch passed quickly over the thick epoxy and the bubbles disappear almost instantaneously. Now I do not know if they paint seal the live edges first to keep the bubbles coming out like you say about the competitors in this video.
I would like to see a comparison of deep pour epoxies. Not epoxy that's only suggested for 1-2 inches...
Hi Dillon, have really enjoyed a whole bunch of your videos since I am also planning to do a pour. Do you have any experience how the epoxy reacts to being used for outside garden furniture? I would look to have the slab be covered by an approx 5-10mm thick epoxy layer and have the table be in the outside all year round in a northern climate (i.e. Sweden) with snow and into -30's degree Celsius (usually does not get that cold but have experienced -36 at the most and -20 is not unusual). many thanks and best wishes from Sweden, John
Hey John, we don't recommend epoxy and wood for outdoor climates unfortunately! We actually did an outdoor table for a client a few years back when we were starting out with epoxy and it ended up getting wrecked by the weather and we had to refund him!
@@BlackForestWoodCo many thanks for your response. I might still try it though, but instead of having epoxy in-between the slabs just cut straight edge boards with a few millimeter gap and coat the cut "slab boards" individually with epoxy. Do you think that could work? Thinking the expansion of each 14cm wide board would be ok and that there is enough flexibility in the epoxy to handle the expansion stress of each board. I'm simply tired of sanding and oiling the table every few years ;-)
Would like to see a comparison with Super Clear Liquid Glass
I noticed you didn’t seal the edges, is that what you guys always do now?
Not a test or review, definitely an advertisement. For a test all things need to be equal, you used different varieties with depth abilities and cure times. Interesting you used the right variety for your test variables. I have watched 100’s of resin videos and have never heard of those brands, I guess you should have put yours up against other popular brands if you didn’t want it to seemed like a stacked deck.
Don't know why this video popped up in my feed but one thing I noticed was pouring your own resin it was a super slow poor that was sped up, the other two didn't get that treatment.
I've used pourable plastic and you can remove most of the bubbles by pouring it more shallow and using heat before the next layer. This video kind a proved that you don't need to spend a lot of money on epoxy unless your primary goal is speed.
Most clients of high quality furniture are not going to want to have layers in their table becuase the person building it was too cheap to buy good epoxy.
You look like shaggy not gonna lie lol. Seriously though thanks for the test cause I wanna start on doing epoxy resin however it's been driving me crazy for the money.
have to use the right product for the job makes for a good finished piece
With the bubbles, does it depend on how quick the resin is poured?
@@MrKritterh that is exactly what I thought
Question: when you do the larger pours and do not have a form ; how do you make the large wood forms that i see on the videos?
MDF and tuck tape
@@kevinc5917 Thank you. As a beginner I Enjoy your videos a great deal.
@@HABlake1 Not my video, but thats what i use when i needed a form. Make sure your mdf is always supported underneath or it will warp and you wont get an even pour.
This is more an epoxy channel than a wood channel
It's both!
so you picked 2 epoxy "cheap andexpensive" which both are pretty shitty. Meanwhile i am using a epoxy 11€ per kg and its crystal clear with 7cm thick pours and no cooling
Any chance you could share the brand? Thanks mate
@@jackemmings3664 epodex
Very nice , Hello from Spanish
Hello! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Could you make a top for those containers then hook the top to a vacuum pump. Would be interesting to see how clear you could make the epoxy.
@@MrKritterh Project Farm is the best!
I feel like this video only hurts your brand, it was not a fair test at all and as the comments show, many have noticed. I wish you did a fair comparison and let the product speak for itself. Love your vids, cheers.
Why are there so many 'experts' on resin in the comments.
Because all of the followers are fans of resin pours. It’s not a difficult conclusion to assume there would be a lot of pros commenting.
$169 is NOT cheap lol. I've seen some that go for $50 and even $100. Even Stone coat is about $100. I'd like to see those cheaper ones more in my budget..and most budgets I guess. But thank you for the demonstration. Was cool to see anyhow!
Did you degas when you did your whiskey bottle in resin pour?
Yes!
Now do one where you prepare the wood edge with a thin layer of epoxy that keeps air from the wood from being drawn into the epoxy, like.a seal, and also use a torch like everyone does to pop surface bubbles and you might even brush the edges once they are submerged to clear out any bubbles from the pour.
We never seal the edge, it compromises the bond between the resin and wood and will detach from one in another in a few years time.
Using a torch can lead to flash curing and creating more bubbles, so we try not to use torches
Great test guys. By the way I have seen in another video of Black Forest when you put epoxy in to the fridge. That is new for me from what I knew epoxy doesn't like humidity and low temperatures. I wold appreciate if you explain to me.
Epoxy actually does like the cold! You don't want hot or warm epoxy because heat is what causes it to cure and to get no bubbles you want a slow cure time!
@@BlackForestWoodCo Yes indeed epoxy doesn't like to hot from what I know the best temperature is 20-22 Celsius and no humidity but putting in the frigo it was new for me? Do you think it works with all brands of epoxy or just with yours epoxy?
@@iovaalin535 Haven't tried it with other brands honestly but it should work. We do it with the bottle castings just because they're so thick which makes them prone to overheating
@@BlackForestWoodCo Thank you for the answer
Ehh I think the black forest is rebranded epoxy obviously I wonder how expensive or what big brand uses the same kind
Here’s my question. Does having air bubbles only matter if you’re going with clear epoxy and not colored epoxy? It seems if you use colored epoxy that it may hide the bubbles, therefore using a cheap epoxy would be fine. Am I correct?
The air bubbles are definitely less noticeable with a cheaper epoxy! What we couldn’t really demonstrate here is the long term binding properties of the different epoxies. An epoxy with less bubbles means that the bubbles had more time to rise to the top. This also means the epoxy had more time to soak into the wood, forming a stronger bond.
@@BlackForestWoodCo After watching your demonstration, I would definitely go with a more expensive epoxy. I just didn’t know if the epoxy had color if it made a difference on seeing bubbles. Example: I’m getting ready to build a TV tray stand with colored epoxy and didn’t know if it made a difference with cheap or expensive epoxy. Now I know. Thank you