As a new rider on a new bike, This video was the reassurance I needed that my motor isn't dying from the 3 times I accidently revved to 6-7k my first time in traffic.
Glad you covered this. The motorcycle break in period is such a controversial topic, yet in the the end it’s simple, just don’t be stupid and ride your bike like you usually would. Like you said engineering has come so far in the past decade. If you’re buying a Japanese bike you truly shouldn’t worry.
It's largely the boomers regurgitating what they learned in the 70's. That was HALF A CENTURY ago, and things have changed, but they haven't bothered to update "what they know"...
For me, aside from Yam's mentioned things about breaking in a motorcycle.. it also includes you and your new bike's 1st phase of relationship (like getting to know each other period). By the time that you are already familiar with how the bike behaves, handles, controls, etc. basically you're done breaking it in.
Cycle World or MotorCyclist did a video on this a couple years ago... They took two identical bikes, broke one in by the manual, and the other by wringing its neck near redline much of the time. When done, they ran them on the dyno, did oil analysis in a lab, compression and leak down tests and took the motors apart and took exact measurements... No appreciable difference between the two break in methods... I was recently asked to help break in a bunch of new Triumphs for this year's demo and promotional fleet... The tech in charge told us not to abuse them, but he preferred if we broke them in harder and put them through their paces...
Also note the bike was a very understressed CB300R... so no stress even on full throttle. I would not do a hard break-in on a superbike with 200 bhp per liter and a 14,000 to 16,000 r/min red line.
@@thainaaier No one would expect that. When I say “car” I don’t mean a Ferrari Enzo. When they say motorcycle, they don’t mean a track ready liter bike.
@@thainaaier I wouldn't;t do it entirely at redline either, but the point was, they did the exact opposite of the manual instructions and it was absolutely fine. I split the difference between the two. I break it in fairly hard, and have even broken a bike in at a track day...
I bought a KLR650 off the showroom floor with 0 miles. Babied it for the first 100 miles, mostly city riding- stop and go then rode it normal. It did fine and still runs like a champ
I Just bought a 2024 Kawasaki Vulcan S on Tuesday. I have been following the manufacturer's break in period guidance and it has been brutal. The manual says during the first 250 miles that I should keep the RPMs under 4k and it is killing me! Putting around at 40mph on the back roads... However, Thanks to this video, I think I will just cruise on it like I planned to, Thanks Yammie!
Thanks for the video! Just got a bike with 2 miles, sv650. And I did follow the manufacturer recommendations for the first 250 miles. I took it up to 7k revs briefly a few times. Runs fine no issues. Getting ready for the first break in service. This video brought piece of mind and it is quite true what is stated. Thanks again!
Thank you for the advice and information I'm buying my first new bike tomorrow and I wasn't sure what was truth and what was bs After watching this I'm going to go just ride how i would around town and just keep it under 6k for the first 100 miles then 8-10k till the 600 mile service well working the tires and breaks
I have actually broken in a motorcycle and dirt bike both soft and hard and never had an issue. I always warm them up then go. Proper oil changes etc are why I think is the most important other than having fun. 😂❤
Maybe you don't keep your bikes that long. The issue with not breaking in a gearbox, don't show the first 2000 miles. And it starts with small problems like it is hard to get into neutral. Ever heard about that before? Or the bike pops out of gear, when you open the throttle a bit hard. That can be bad break in. You never know. Maybe it is not even possible to check it. Other then doing a experiment. But that is going to take years, lot of work. Cost a lot of money. Know one has time for that. or care if their toys break.
@@Gismo3333 just saw your reply. My oldest bike is a 1973 and my newest is a 2022. I have had 2 stroke and 4 stroke motorcycles. I have completely rebuilt bikes of various sizes. I am a firm believer in fresh fluids and warm ups. If the motorcycle was built right. If everything has been seated correctly from main bearings, to piston rings all properly gapped & cleaned you shouldn’t have any issues. That being said it also depends on the type of motor. If you have a high strong racing motor that’s close to the edge you have to follow the rules of engagement. On the other side of you have an everyday reliable commuting motorcycle for the average rider… they are built to last even with the worst owner. It’s all up to how they are handled and if you know your machine and it’s characteristics.
In the early 90's I totally rebuilt my 1986 FZ 750. The mechanic I bought it from said to first use the crappiest, straight 30w oil for the first 200 miles, then switch to good quality non synthetic for the next 3000, and finally to full synthetic after if I wanted to. For that first 200, no steady rpms but be sure to occasionally hit near the rev limiter. After the 200 and first oil change, ride it as hard as I wanted. I never did go full syn, but ran that bike hard for over 45,000 miles. It NEVER burned oil, lost only 2 or less psi compression, and did not even need valve adjustment. (Normal valve interval was 26,000 miles in the 5 valve per Genesis motor). So, break in moderately hard for first 200, then go all out after.
That crappy, straight 30w oil was awful advice. The rest wasn’t bad, but you want to break it in with something heavier in zinc, if you’re actually breaking it in. Crappy oil is just that, crappy. He was right about not switching to full synthetic right off the bat. It prolongs the breakin period, because it lubricates better. It doesn’t allow parts to wear into themselves as fast.
I chose to do the gentle break in. Was just following the manufacturer recommendations. This is my first bike and should hit the 600 miles on my way home today. Got the oil change kit and what I need to clean and lube the chain ready to go. Also decided to get out the torque wrenches and go over the bike just to be sure things are right.
Well-played… especially making sure bolts are tightened. My bolts on my left foot peg mount got loose and I didn’t realize until one bolt had completely fallen out, and the one remaining bolt was hanging by a thread… luckily I was able to secure it , but if my left foot peg came off mid ride, that would have SUCKED.
I follow what a good portion of engine builders, racers, and dyno operators follow. Regardless of the internal combustion engine once the oil is up to maximum temperature then all dissimilar metals are fully expanded to their operating tolerances, and it's good to run it how it's gonna be used.
On high end sports cars engines in the past few years, the computers (ECM) actually don't allow you to go above 4000rpm on the throttle for the first 500kms, then you do an oil change and it allows full throttle. That tells you everything you need to know.
Some sport bikes do the same thing. Although, my cbr1000rr manual just sad avoid heavy acceleration and braking until the 600 mile oil change. There aren’t many things besides our father in heaven that I trust, but Honda engineers are one of them. Lol.
Some sport bikes do the same thing. Although, my cbr1000rr manual just sad avoid heavy acceleration and braking until the 600 mile oil change. There aren’t many things besides our father in heaven that I trust, but Honda engineers are one of them. Lol.
I just got a brand new Suzi GSX-8R. I haven’t ridden in over 29 years (and that was a Rebel 450). It’s going to be a soft break in, whether it works or not.
Got an Africa Twin last month as my first bike, im still breaking in (102 miles), i'm doing a bit of both since im not a hard driver (its my first big bike), 6 years ago i used to drive 150cc and 200cc from my uncles.
I know you dislike the engine but I just bought a new 2022 Kawasaki Z650RS. I live in a very rural area so bike selection is slim. I wanted an XSR700 or 900 but it just wasn’t happening. This video came out just in time though so I can learn how to break in that slug of an engine.
The Z650RS is a fantastic bike, really great value for money! It may not be the most "charismatic" engine but it's a great engine, and I personally think the looks of the bike are great. Awesome choice, happy riding!
@@2shoestoo absolutely. I was just cracking jokes about how Yam hates on the Kawi 650 engine. I am super happy with my bike and excited to put some serious commuter miles on it this summer.
I just purchased the newest bike I have ever owned. 2021 KTM Duke with 640 miles on it. I have no idea how the bike was broken in or handled before I got it, but generally it looks to be in pretty great shape. The first service schedule calls for 620 mile service, but I put 80 miles or so on it over the weekend (kind of babying it, but not totally lugging it) and brought it to the dealership today for “break in” service
Got 210 miles on my 2024 Yamaha R3 and these videos are reassuring. The first 100 miles I kept it under 7k. In my mind, it does not take 1000 miles to properly seat the O-rings. I drive it normally and let her rip when merging on to the interstate. Bike idles smoother after a couple pulls.
A Harley mechanic recommended getting up through the gears quickly to 3rd and 60mph, then let off and engine break, repeat 3 times…that breaks it in, the engine braking seats the seals. I did one bike per manufacturer and one this way and swear the engine break method felt like it ran smoother. Then change the oil at 100 -125 miles. After that, don’t go crazy but ride as normal. For the brakes, smooth progressive braking.
Thanks for this video. Ive just put a deposit down on my first bike. Brand new kawasaki z650. And ive been wonderinh about this break in period. After this vid im alot more confident about it. Thanks dude.
When the Honda Fireblade first came out Honda told race teams it's good to go from the off & will give more power riding hard. They put a break in period in the hand book probably for people to familiarise themselves with such a powerful bike. My last CBR600 hand book didn't really say much about the break or at what rpm but my previous one did.
That is because racing teams, and people riding their bikes on the road. Is not the same riding, not the same service intervals. Not even the same bikes or parts. You can never take advise from a race bike, to a road bike. They have service on the bike after every race. Do you tear down your engine after you taken your bike out for a weekend ride? Don't think so. Stop comparing your self with racers and race bikes. They also don't use the bikes that long. And chance parts all the time. If they blow a gearbox, they chance it… You would probably had to sell the bike, or wait to save up the money; to have a shop fix it. This is really spreading misinformation that really can hurt other people. But this is OK…?
@@Gismo3333 if you read what i said it's what Honda said & not what i would do or recommend, it's all documented in the Haynes book of the Honda Fireblade CBR 900R by Rob Simmonds.
@@TriumphBeezaman -- Stop using & in your comments. It seems like you are using it instead of "and". That is not what it mean. I think you did not understand or did not read my comment. You did not even understand your own first comment, it seems. This is a tip to a race team's, and to be used on race-bikes, that probably never runs more then 1-2K miles before it get trashed. You can't use this on road bikes with 3000 - 6000 mile intervals on service. Race-bike have a service after every race. And also closely monitored under the race. You never see a race-bike run 60 000 miles+… It is not the same bikes. Even if the names are similar.
I would say its about avoiding heat by keeping revs low. Too much heat may wear things out specially when new engine isn't clean. My bike ran really hot for 2 hours straight due to traffic right after I took the delivery. Even though I kept RPMs low I still engine doesn't like running in hot conditions of India. In evening it runs butter smooth, and bike feels alive.
I do believe in not redlining it for the first 50-150 miles, keep the revs moving around, show it some load but no lugging, engine braking,, then drop that oil and send it! Change oil again about 1-200 miles later than normal intervals. Engines break in alot earlier than 1000 miles
Well ,I run no more that 55 miles and hr on state streets that alow 55 mph for 500 mile change oil and filter at 500 and ride normal after. That has been exellent for all 5 of my motorcycles. Never have a engine problem.
I've owned at least 10 brand new bikes from beginner to the big boys zx14,hayabusa etc. Cruisers to touring and sport ive never broke in a new bike I just rode it and never had a problem ever from all manufactures
I usually take an angle grinder to the tires to get em sticky. Then I will file down the brake pads to ensure the meat is causing the friction. Otherwise I just drive it on road and people a lawns to get the variable rpm’s.
I basically ride it from day 1 like I ride it on day 365. I don't bounce off the revi limiter or ride on the highway so I naturally ride with varying RPM around the Blue Ridge Mountain twisties.
I knoww, im still waiting for the kawasaki dealership message that my new bike arrived, i cant freaking wait! Been bingewatching him and others like crazy!
My break-in on my Rebel 500 was as follows: I ride to work every day for up to five minutes there and back, mostly at a speed of 60 km/h. On occasion, I revved the engine at high RPMs around 110 km/h for about a minute. After approximately three-quarters of a month, I reached an accumulated mileage of around 700 km. During this period, I rode 260 km over two days, going and coming back home, with one instance of attempting to reach speeds of up to 160 km/h for periods of between five to ten minutes. Subsequently, I hit the 960 km mark. Following this, I changed the oil and filter with new ones. However, upon inspection, I noticed a slight gasoline smell in the used oil. Fortunately, there were no visible particles in the oil, but it was quite dark - not black, but definitely darker than usual.
I found that breaking in the bike is best in both options. I typically start my ride under 6k and then after about 5 - 10 minutes I take her on the highway and let her run about 7 - 8k. Every once in awhile do a gentle pull and get it up to 10k for a very short time. Before my ride is over I let her rest again at about 6k and call it a day. My 660 redlines at about 12,500 so I feel running the engine up is preparing her for how she’ll be rode.
I changed the oil and filter at 400 miles after a rebuild, again at 400 miles and once more at 1000 on my 1995 nissan truck. And that little sucker idles smoooth. It burns gas so efficiently that water vapor drips on the exhaust. Oh by the way first 400 miles i kept it under 35 mph and off freeways, and sporadic take offs. Noticed the smoothness getting better and better each drive. Followed my mechanics orders of keeping it slow the first 400 miles, used O'rilleys conventional oil and filters, nothing fancy. I remember the first peppy accelaration going uphills.
I have had two bikes in the past year and bought both with around 300 miles on them. I rode the first bike (Z 125) till around 1,000 miles and changed the oil I rode it hard and had no issues. The second bike (Duke 390) I have also rode hard and the owner's manual said to wait and change the oil at 2,400 miles which I thought was weird I have ridden about 2,000 miles on it and have now changed the oil and have found no issues. I guess my point is that yes you can change your oil early but if you are mechanically inclined you would notice any issues found. I am definitely on the side of hard break in.
Hard break in involving plenty of varying load on the engine at medium revs with the occasional venture towards the red line. Don't let it lug at all or run at constant load/revs for long.
They have done tons of research on this. There is no difference between a hard brake in and a soft brake in. You just need to just ride it like it’s intended to only thing you should do is change the oil more often until you hit 600 miles. You will have some metal flakes in it that is OK it’s common. The manual says don’t do high RPMs it’s because they don’t want you to break anything while it’s under warranty.
The warranty here is 5 years on Yamaha and Honda. Suzuki has 7 years. Kawasaki 2 years. The manuals statement to avoid warranty claims can't be true. You will easily pass the break in period in a couple of months even if you don't ride alot.
Yami I just got a new R1 and the manual suggestion for break in is really boring , if I keep the bike under 7k rpm till 1k miles I might miss the riding season , do u think it's ok to take it on short road trips alone and keep it below red line and mid throttle but hit 120 mph at probably 9k/10.5k rpm , at the moment my max speed is 75 mph which will take me ages to reach 1000 miles
I seat the rings by heat cycling before it leaves the shop so it can be tuned in the dyno and the owner don’t have to worry with it. Most guys are gonna go crack it wide open anyway after they pay 4k in upgrades
I just bought a 2024 panigale v2 in Idaho and couldn’t get it shipped to Texas where I live… So I flew in and pick it up and am currently on day two on the 1500 mile trip back to Texas… Am I causing any damage doing over the first service.
I found out that Honda doesn't always equal reliability. The 08-16 fireblades consume oil in large amounts due to its poor nikasil cylinder bore coatings. This allows oil past the piston rings. This means it doesn't matter how you break-in the engine.
guy at the dealer gave me funny advice: Gentle, low RPM riding for 300 miles... then just have fun for the next 300, rev her all the way up when you see the oportunity, just dont hold red-line for to long.
I have heard arguments on the hard break-in side that you need to build up oil pressure by riding it as hard as humanly possible to also fully seat the seal rings. I personally think it doesn't matter anymore how you break in the engine with todays motorcycles.
How many times do you see this in movies and TV shows? Guy gets in vehicle, starts it, and immediately burns rubber leaving. A nice lesson in vehicle abuse.
I don't know I'd probably do a combination of that. Run the manufacturer one then do hard breaking after but I guess it's done breaking in if you finish the manufacturer one but you know
I’ve been doing a mix of the two on my bike. Medium break in? I live in an area where highway is more of a convenience than a necessity so I haven’t had the need to take it on the highway yet.
Something to keep in mind: A lot of modern motorcycles have a "tattle-tail" in the diagnostics. So if you deviate from the manufacturers break-in procedure in the manual, and something catastrophically breaks, they'll be able to tell when they hook it up to their diagnostic computer, when you try to get it repaired "under warranty". So.... hard-break-in if you want, but I wouldn't want a brand new (broken) motorcycle that I'm not only going to have to make the monthly payments on, but also have to come up with thousands of dollars to fix it, just so it will run!
Thanks for the video, Yam. I’ve been watching your videos religiously while I gear up to buy my 1st bike, a brand new CFMOTO 450SS. The break in period has been one of the more confusing things for me to understand. However, after watching this I feel like I have some minute understanding of the scientific or mechanical importance of the break in and that makes me feel a little better. 🦑
I have a question and haven’t been able to find an answer but simply does the bike sound different before and after the break in period or does the break in period not affect how it sounds?
For me, I'm soon gonna become a motorcycle rider and I'm thinking of getting a triumph bonneville t100, do y'all have any tips on the break-in stage for that bike?
I just hauled my bike(new 0 miles) home today in the back my truck, and I think I'll just ride it as I would normally do. I bought an after market exhaust but the service personnel at the dealership recommend leaving the factory exhaust until the 600 mile mark but I want to put on the exhaust already. Any input is greatly appreciated. TIA
I just got my beginner 400cc bike and i didn’t read the manual. For the first day, I rode my motorcycle reaching 127km but when I saw the manual on the next day, it says there I should limit my speed to 60kmph. Should I be worried?
My first ride stalled it by moving into gear without pressing clutch. First 20p meter i went over 7rpm cause i was used to m car where i shift waay late and still in 4rpm. So i kinda rev it high for few second And drove 10rpm for 20 seconds. I hope i didn't damaged it....
“Take heed to the manufacturer’s recommendations” ZX4RR wants you to keep it at or below 4k rpm, I tried that and in 6th gear I was going 42 mph, I think that’s one recommendation I definitely won’t be listening to 💀
The more important, that is more important. Is to be smooth on the gearbox and all the controls. They you also learn to be a much better rider. They you mostly don't get problems later, with hard to get into neutral… Or the bike get hard to get in or out of some of the gears. Or even that the bike sometimes jump out of gear. Chancing the cylinder is noting compared to changing the gearbox. Or even fix some gears in the trans. That is when most people just buy a new engine, another part-bike or a new bike. So it is more to let the gear box loosen up before you wear in the gears. Or they are going to be way to loose when the gearbox loosen up.
i have a brand new r3 and was going very light on it in the beginning. i’m only at 400 miles. today i hit 11k rpm’s just for a couple seconds never consecutively. is that alright?
First off... Use good gas ⛽ then run for an hour not hitting the low to mid RPM's Not too high, take a break let cool down a bit. To cool off and then get engine running temperature again is good to do. Stay off the highway... Keeping in mind that the brakes and tires are also breaking in the same time😢. The cables, chain, and other engine internals cam chain, piston rings, etc... just ride normal without pushing it ... First oil change at 1000 klms, that is what my manual says, then every 5.000 kilometers. With a very good 100% synthetic oil.
For me as long as your mc is need power try not to limit it but try squeeze more power acceleration but not totally fully rev so after 100-300km I usually make a full throttle but limit time only until my mc power and fastened pickup
i’d say ride your bike like how you want it to, my grandfather bought a new motorcycle and took the “soft break in” route, and because he babied his bike too much, it runs slower compared to the other same model bikes. Moral of the story, just run it like how you would want the bike to run. Don’t worry too much about breaking it, especially if it’s a japanese brand.
Was planning on getting a new bike this year (if so be my first new new one) and was thinking of how to break in. Gonna be a jump in engine size so the break-in period is probably going to be me getting used to the size difference
Sounds like you are going up in power way to early. You should then have no problem doing a stoppy on your new bike… And don't be bothered at all by some car pulling out in-front of you. Changing lanes to miss cars. You should not have to get used to the bigger weight or power of the bike. Then you need more training on your small bike. Training to be better on a bigger bike, is really much hard and much more dangerous. It is like talking 5-10+ years (or maybe never) to learn what take 1-2 years on a smaller bike.
@@Gismo3333 literally nobody on the planet moves up in power and size on a motorcycle without some kind of adjustment period. Nobody. Every, single person that has ever went from a 600 super sport to a liter bike has had to take a bit to train their muscle memory again to allow for the difference in acceleration.
Broke in my 2020 Vulcan s probably the softest way imaginable. Sitting at 25k miles no problems. Even took it in for the 15k mile valve lash check and they said just come back at 30k miles. Although i am gonna be coming up on my second clutch change pretty soon clutch soon but that's normal.
@billbonu1639 depending on how u ride now. My first was misadjusted from factory so it only had enough friction for normal riding but would slip riding hard in the twisties
My experience might just be anecdotal, however I’ve owned around 20 bikes now. The one time I didn’t follow the manufacturer’s break in instructions, at only a few thousand the engine seized. YMMV (hopefully) and the manufacturer did replace the bike. Circumstantial? Who knows!
some may say the best way to break in a new bike is as 5 min long burnout in the parking lot of the dealer, dont forget the test that redline, after all you paid for it!
That is going to be really expensive 5 min. Do you really think the dealer is going to pay for the damaged, after 1-5 years when you are trying to sell that wreck?
I rode my new gsxr 1000 r pretty normally for the first 375 miles didnt really go over 7-8krpm but used more load as miles increased and had some spirited rides, using plenty of throttle, bike never ran hard unless fully warmed up. Had first service done at 375 then hit 10kish rpm and after 500 miles 10-12krpm here and there, had a long highway ride too tried to vary revs at this point i was in high 500s 600 miles. I believe bike was pretty much run in way earlier than we think Just my 2 pence
As a new rider on a new bike, This video was the reassurance I needed that my motor isn't dying from the 3 times I accidently revved to 6-7k my first time in traffic.
it really puts your mind at ease, mine too lol. I was like so fixated on revving it two times past 5k.
i had this exact thought lol
Glad you covered this. The motorcycle break in period is such a controversial topic, yet in the the end it’s simple, just don’t be stupid and ride your bike like you usually would. Like you said engineering has come so far in the past decade. If you’re buying a Japanese bike you truly shouldn’t worry.
now you said it -it really depends on the bike, some bikes are manufactured old school, while some are so precise it doesnt matter
It's largely the boomers regurgitating what they learned in the 70's. That was HALF A CENTURY ago, and things have changed, but they haven't bothered to update "what they know"...
My new yamahas engine broke at 109 miles
@@ryanslaven3482same even i did baby brekin still it got crank shaft problem
@@designertech192errr which Yamaha?
As a master tech, and someone who has built many engines.. I completely agree with break it in exactly how you drive it.
Thank you!
For me, aside from Yam's mentioned things about breaking in a motorcycle.. it also includes you and your new bike's 1st phase of relationship (like getting to know each other period). By the time that you are already familiar with how the bike behaves, handles, controls, etc. basically you're done breaking it in.
THIS COMMENT MADE IT SO EASIER FOR ME TO UNDERSTAND THANK YOU, its just put in easier words hahah but yuppp i would assume to!!
Agree! I took it easy getting used to the bike the first 200-300 miles then just rode it the way I like to ride
@@ghaithk7167wat about old change do u recommend after those 200 to 300 miles to change oil ?
Cycle World or MotorCyclist did a video on this a couple years ago... They took two identical bikes, broke one in by the manual, and the other by wringing its neck near redline much of the time. When done, they ran them on the dyno, did oil analysis in a lab, compression and leak down tests and took the motors apart and took exact measurements... No appreciable difference between the two break in methods...
I was recently asked to help break in a bunch of new Triumphs for this year's demo and promotional fleet... The tech in charge told us not to abuse them, but he preferred if we broke them in harder and put them through their paces...
Excellent insight. Thank you.
Also note the bike was a very understressed CB300R... so no stress even on full throttle.
I would not do a hard break-in on a superbike with 200 bhp per liter and a 14,000 to 16,000 r/min red line.
@@thainaaier
No one would expect that. When I say “car” I don’t mean a Ferrari Enzo. When they say motorcycle, they don’t mean a track ready liter bike.
@@thainaaier I wouldn't;t do it entirely at redline either, but the point was, they did the exact opposite of the manual instructions and it was absolutely fine.
I split the difference between the two. I break it in fairly hard, and have even broken a bike in at a track day...
And after 30.000 miles?
I bought a KLR650 off the showroom floor with 0 miles. Babied it for the first 100 miles, mostly city riding- stop and go then rode it normal. It did fine and still runs like a champ
Engine development engineer and I love hard break in. Compression and pressure
I Just bought a 2024 Kawasaki Vulcan S on Tuesday. I have been following the manufacturer's break in period guidance and it has been brutal. The manual says during the first 250 miles that I should keep the RPMs under 4k and it is killing me! Putting around at 40mph on the back roads... However, Thanks to this video, I think I will just cruise on it like I planned to, Thanks Yammie!
Thanks for the video! Just got a bike with 2 miles, sv650. And I did follow the manufacturer recommendations for the first 250 miles. I took it up to 7k revs briefly a few times. Runs fine no issues. Getting ready for the first break in service. This video brought piece of mind and it is quite true what is stated. Thanks again!
PEACE of mind, not a PIECE of your mind.
What did you think was gonna happen? It grenades at 1rpm over?
Thank you for the advice and information
I'm buying my first new bike tomorrow and I wasn't sure what was truth and what was bs
After watching this I'm going to go just ride how i would around town and just keep it under 6k for the first 100 miles then 8-10k
till the 600 mile service well working the tires and breaks
I have actually broken in a motorcycle and dirt bike both soft and hard and never had an issue. I always warm them up then go. Proper oil changes etc are why I think is the most important other than having fun. 😂❤
Maybe you don't keep your bikes that long. The issue with not breaking in a gearbox, don't show the first 2000 miles. And it starts with small problems like it is hard to get into neutral. Ever heard about that before?
Or the bike pops out of gear, when you open the throttle a bit hard. That can be bad break in. You never know. Maybe it is not even possible to check it. Other then doing a experiment. But that is going to take years, lot of work. Cost a lot of money.
Know one has time for that. or care if their toys break.
@@Gismo3333 just saw your reply. My oldest bike is a 1973 and my newest is a 2022. I have had 2 stroke and 4 stroke motorcycles. I have completely rebuilt bikes of various sizes. I am a firm believer in fresh fluids and warm ups. If the motorcycle was built right. If everything has been seated correctly from main bearings, to piston rings all properly gapped & cleaned you shouldn’t have any issues. That being said it also depends on the type of motor. If you have a high strong racing motor that’s close to the edge you have to follow the rules of engagement. On the other side of you have an everyday reliable commuting motorcycle for the average rider… they are built to last even with the worst owner. It’s all up to how they are handled and if you know your machine and it’s characteristics.
In the early 90's I totally rebuilt my 1986 FZ 750. The mechanic I bought it from said to first use the crappiest, straight 30w oil for the first 200 miles, then switch to good quality non synthetic for the next 3000, and finally to full synthetic after if I wanted to. For that first 200, no steady rpms but be sure to occasionally hit near the rev limiter. After the 200 and first oil change, ride it as hard as I wanted.
I never did go full syn, but ran that bike hard for over 45,000 miles. It NEVER burned oil, lost only 2 or less psi compression, and did not even need valve adjustment. (Normal valve interval was 26,000 miles in the 5 valve per Genesis motor).
So, break in moderately hard for first 200, then go all out after.
That crappy, straight 30w oil was awful advice. The rest wasn’t bad, but you want to break it in with something heavier in zinc, if you’re actually breaking it in. Crappy oil is just that, crappy. He was right about not switching to full synthetic right off the bat. It prolongs the breakin period, because it lubricates better. It doesn’t allow parts to wear into themselves as fast.
I chose to do the gentle break in. Was just following the manufacturer recommendations. This is my first bike and should hit the 600 miles on my way home today. Got the oil change kit and what I need to clean and lube the chain ready to go. Also decided to get out the torque wrenches and go over the bike just to be sure things are right.
Well-played… especially making sure bolts are tightened. My bolts on my left foot peg mount got loose and I didn’t realize until one bolt had completely fallen out, and the one remaining bolt was hanging by a thread… luckily I was able to secure it , but if my left foot peg came off mid ride, that would have SUCKED.
600 miles for me today too.....can't beat a new bike.....
Wow this is a hell lot of riding for 1 day on a supersport too
Great tips on breaking in a new bike. I've always wondered about the best practices for this. Thanks for sharing
I follow what a good portion of engine builders, racers, and dyno operators follow. Regardless of the internal combustion engine once the oil is up to maximum temperature then all dissimilar metals are fully expanded to their operating tolerances, and it's good to run it how it's gonna be used.
On high end sports cars engines in the past few years, the computers (ECM) actually don't allow you to go above 4000rpm on the throttle for the first 500kms, then you do an oil change and it allows full throttle. That tells you everything you need to know.
Some sport bikes do the same thing. Although, my cbr1000rr manual just sad avoid heavy acceleration and braking until the 600 mile oil change. There aren’t many things besides our father in heaven that I trust, but Honda engineers are one of them. Lol.
Some sport bikes do the same thing. Although, my cbr1000rr manual just sad avoid heavy acceleration and braking until the 600 mile oil change. There aren’t many things besides our father in heaven that I trust, but Honda engineers are one of them. Lol.
I just got a brand new Suzi GSX-8R. I haven’t ridden in over 29 years (and that was a Rebel 450). It’s going to be a soft break in, whether it works or not.
Got an Africa Twin last month as my first bike, im still breaking in (102 miles), i'm doing a bit of both since im not a hard driver (its my first big bike), 6 years ago i used to drive 150cc and 200cc from my uncles.
I've been thinking about getting a motorcycle and this video is super helpful. Can't wait to hit the road
I know you dislike the engine but I just bought a new 2022 Kawasaki Z650RS. I live in a very rural area so bike selection is slim. I wanted an XSR700 or 900 but it just wasn’t happening. This video came out just in time though so I can learn how to break in that slug of an engine.
The Z650RS is a fantastic bike, really great value for money! It may not be the most "charismatic" engine but it's a great engine, and I personally think the looks of the bike are great. Awesome choice, happy riding!
Why apologize for the brand of bike you purchased? You got a new bike and now your good to go, be safe!
@@2shoestoo absolutely. I was just cracking jokes about how Yam hates on the Kawi 650 engine. I am super happy with my bike and excited to put some serious commuter miles on it this summer.
Nice I just bought a 2023 last week! I think for my uses,and at my current skill level, the 650 has plenty to offer.
I just purchased the newest bike I have ever owned. 2021 KTM Duke with 640 miles on it. I have no idea how the bike was broken in or handled before I got it, but generally it looks to be in pretty great shape. The first service schedule calls for 620 mile service, but I put 80 miles or so on it over the weekend (kind of babying it, but not totally lugging it) and brought it to the dealership today for “break in” service
Got 210 miles on my 2024 Yamaha R3 and these videos are reassuring. The first 100 miles I kept it under 7k. In my mind, it does not take 1000 miles to properly seat the O-rings. I drive it normally and let her rip when merging on to the interstate. Bike idles smoother after a couple pulls.
A Harley mechanic recommended getting up through the gears quickly to 3rd and 60mph, then let off and engine break, repeat 3 times…that breaks it in, the engine braking seats the seals. I did one bike per manufacturer and one this way and swear the engine break method felt like it ran smoother. Then change the oil at 100 -125 miles. After that, don’t go crazy but ride as normal. For the brakes, smooth progressive braking.
Getting my first bike in the morning. Burnout and wheelie first thing. That's why I'm subscribed to Yammie Noob
How’s your new bike?
@@NykesterWaltzz I love it can't wait to ride everyday
Thanks for this video. Ive just put a deposit down on my first bike. Brand new kawasaki z650. And ive been wonderinh about this break in period. After this vid im alot more confident about it. Thanks dude.
Being that you bought a 650 for your first home, go soft break-in! ;)
When the Honda Fireblade first came out Honda told race teams it's good to go from the off & will give more power riding hard.
They put a break in period in the hand book probably for people to familiarise themselves with such a powerful bike.
My last CBR600 hand book didn't really say much about the break or at what rpm but my previous one did.
That is because racing teams, and people riding their bikes on the road. Is not the same riding, not the same service intervals. Not even the same bikes or parts. You can never take advise from a race bike, to a road bike.
They have service on the bike after every race. Do you tear down your engine after you taken your bike out for a weekend ride?
Don't think so.
Stop comparing your self with racers and race bikes.
They also don't use the bikes that long. And chance parts all the time. If they blow a gearbox, they chance it… You would probably had to sell the bike, or wait to save up the money; to have a shop fix it.
This is really spreading misinformation that really can hurt other people. But this is OK…?
@@Gismo3333 if you read what i said it's what Honda said & not what i would do or recommend, it's all documented in the Haynes book of the Honda Fireblade CBR 900R by Rob Simmonds.
@@TriumphBeezaman -- Stop using & in your comments. It seems like you are using it instead of "and". That is not what it mean.
I think you did not understand or did not read my comment.
You did not even understand your own first comment, it seems. This is a tip to a race team's, and to be used on race-bikes, that probably never runs more then 1-2K miles before it get trashed. You can't use this on road bikes with 3000 - 6000 mile intervals on service. Race-bike have a service after every race. And also closely monitored under the race. You never see a race-bike run 60 000 miles+…
It is not the same bikes. Even if the names are similar.
I would say its about avoiding heat by keeping revs low. Too much heat may wear things out specially when new engine isn't clean.
My bike ran really hot for 2 hours straight due to traffic right after I took the delivery. Even though I kept RPMs low I still engine doesn't like running in hot conditions of India. In evening it runs butter smooth, and bike feels alive.
So what happens if we don't follow the engine break in period
I do believe in not redlining it for the first 50-150 miles, keep the revs moving around, show it some load but no lugging, engine braking,, then drop that oil and send it! Change oil again about 1-200 miles later than normal intervals. Engines break in alot earlier than 1000 miles
Well ,I run no more that 55 miles and hr on state streets that alow 55 mph for 500 mile change oil and filter at 500 and ride normal after. That has been exellent for all 5 of my motorcycles. Never have a engine problem.
Your absolutely correct I just bought a new 2024 ZX14R and went through the break in period and oil change
I've owned at least 10 brand new bikes from beginner to the big boys zx14,hayabusa etc. Cruisers to touring and sport ive never broke in a new bike I just rode it and never had a problem ever from all manufactures
I usually take an angle grinder to the tires to get em sticky. Then I will file down the brake pads to ensure the meat is causing the friction. Otherwise I just drive it on road and people a lawns to get the variable rpm’s.
Its not only the piston, its equally important for the crankshaft bearing.
I basically ride it from day 1 like I ride it on day 365. I don't bounce off the revi limiter or ride on the highway so I naturally ride with varying RPM around the Blue Ridge Mountain twisties.
How the hell did you know to make this video today?! I just ordered a new ninja 400 few hours ago!!! what kind of magic is that 😂
What year bro
@@juanmata3394 Er..he said new?
I knoww, im still waiting for the kawasaki dealership message that my new bike arrived, i cant freaking wait!
Been bingewatching him and others like crazy!
Back in my day, the dealer I bought my dual sport from told me to just ride it normal not crazy. That’s it. This was 2 years ago.
My break-in on my Rebel 500 was as follows: I ride to work every day for up to five minutes there and back, mostly at a speed of 60 km/h. On occasion, I revved the engine at high RPMs around 110 km/h for about a minute. After approximately three-quarters of a month, I reached an accumulated mileage of around 700 km. During this period, I rode 260 km over two days, going and coming back home, with one instance of attempting to reach speeds of up to 160 km/h for periods of between five to ten minutes. Subsequently, I hit the 960 km mark. Following this, I changed the oil and filter with new ones. However, upon inspection, I noticed a slight gasoline smell in the used oil. Fortunately, there were no visible particles in the oil, but it was quite dark - not black, but definitely darker than usual.
I bought a new, 2021 cbr1000rr in august, and the manual literally said just be nice to it for the first 600 miles. Lol.
I found that breaking in the bike is best in both options. I typically start my ride under 6k and then after about 5 - 10 minutes I take her on the highway and let her run about 7 - 8k. Every once in awhile do a gentle pull and get it up to 10k for a very short time. Before my ride is over I let her rest again at about 6k and call it a day.
My 660 redlines at about 12,500 so I feel running the engine up is preparing her for how she’ll be rode.
Solid my friend!
I changed the oil and filter at 400 miles after a rebuild, again at 400 miles and once more at 1000 on my 1995 nissan truck. And that little sucker idles smoooth. It burns gas so efficiently that water vapor drips on the exhaust. Oh by the way first 400 miles i kept it under 35 mph and off freeways, and sporadic take offs. Noticed the smoothness getting better and better each drive. Followed my mechanics orders of keeping it slow the first 400 miles, used O'rilleys conventional oil and filters, nothing fancy. I remember the first peppy accelaration going uphills.
Thanks…I’m looking forward to doing a wheelie while leaving the dealership
I have had two bikes in the past year and bought both with around 300 miles on them. I rode the first bike (Z 125) till around 1,000 miles and changed the oil I rode it hard and had no issues. The second bike (Duke 390) I have also rode hard and the owner's manual said to wait and change the oil at 2,400 miles which I thought was weird I have ridden about 2,000 miles on it and have now changed the oil and have found no issues. I guess my point is that yes you can change your oil early but if you are mechanically inclined you would notice any issues found. I am definitely on the side of hard break in.
Hard break in involving plenty of varying load on the engine at medium revs with the occasional venture towards the red line. Don't let it lug at all or run at constant load/revs for long.
Excellent timing...literally just collected my new Hayabusa....
Can’t wait to see the turboing videos. 🤘🏻
You got a busa and don’t already know how to break in a bike? God help you.
Why? I last bought a new bike decades ago. Why should I be an expert on breaking a new bike in? @@techtonicblast4421
This video cured so much anxiety
I don't hit limiter . But I break my bikes in a little hard. My 701 doesn't burn oil. Yet I hear many people complain about. 690/701 oil consumption.
Hello! to get to those 600 miles , do you recommend to do it with long rides o short ones ? or its the same ? Thank you .. Greetings from Costa Rica
They have done tons of research on this. There is no difference between a hard brake in and a soft brake in. You just need to just ride it like it’s intended to only thing you should do is change the oil more often until you hit 600 miles. You will have some metal flakes in it that is OK it’s common. The manual says don’t do high RPMs it’s because they don’t want you to break anything while it’s under warranty.
The warranty here is 5 years on Yamaha and Honda. Suzuki has 7 years. Kawasaki 2 years. The manuals statement to avoid warranty claims can't be true. You will easily pass the break in period in a couple of months even if you don't ride alot.
I always used the hard break in and not had any problems
Yami I just got a new R1 and the manual suggestion for break in is really boring , if I keep the bike under 7k rpm till 1k miles I might miss the riding season , do u think it's ok to take it on short road trips alone and keep it below red line and mid throttle but hit 120 mph at probably 9k/10.5k rpm , at the moment my max speed is 75 mph which will take me ages to reach 1000 miles
yam please share your in depth observation of the motorcycle scene in india that you saw apart from Jaisalmer
Don't be afraid to talk about a valve job to go along with that oil change.
I seat the rings by heat cycling before it leaves the shop so it can be tuned in the dyno and the owner don’t have to worry with it. Most guys are gonna go crack it wide open anyway after they pay 4k in upgrades
I just bought a 2024 panigale v2 in Idaho and couldn’t get it shipped to Texas where I live…
So I flew in and pick it up and am currently on day two on the 1500 mile trip back to Texas…
Am I causing any damage doing over the first service.
I found out that Honda doesn't always equal reliability. The 08-16 fireblades consume oil in large amounts due to its poor nikasil cylinder bore coatings. This allows oil past the piston rings. This means it doesn't matter how you break-in the engine.
ryan f9 made a video explaining how to brake in a new bike. its pretty old but it is very intresting
guy at the dealer gave me funny advice:
Gentle, low RPM riding for 300 miles... then just have fun for the next 300, rev her all the way up when you see the oportunity, just dont hold red-line for to long.
Anyone else here looking for the best gear for beginners? Those links in the description seem really useful
I have heard arguments on the hard break-in side that you need to build up oil pressure by riding it as hard as humanly possible to also fully seat the seal rings. I personally think it doesn't matter anymore how you break in the engine with todays motorcycles.
Most engines now have variable oil pumps and the pressure doesnt significantly change like it did 5-10 years ago.
How many times do you see this in movies and TV shows? Guy gets in vehicle, starts it, and immediately burns rubber leaving. A nice lesson in vehicle abuse.
Cry harder. Maybe you'll create a river so you'll float downstream away and find people that care. 😭😭😭💩🤡
I got my gsxr600 new and rode like i stole it from day 1. Still runs like new 18 years later
I don't know I'd probably do a combination of that. Run the manufacturer one then do hard breaking after but I guess it's done breaking in if you finish the manufacturer one but you know
I’ve been doing a mix of the two on my bike. Medium break in? I live in an area where highway is more of a convenience than a necessity so I haven’t had the need to take it on the highway yet.
im about to buy a brand new MT-09 either '21 or '22. should i start popping dank nooners immediately or ride like a 900lb harley for 1000 kilometers
Something to keep in mind:
A lot of modern motorcycles have a "tattle-tail" in the diagnostics. So if you deviate from the manufacturers break-in procedure in the manual, and something catastrophically breaks, they'll be able to tell when they hook it up to their diagnostic computer, when you try to get it repaired "under warranty".
So.... hard-break-in if you want, but I wouldn't want a brand new (broken) motorcycle that I'm not only going to have to make the monthly payments on, but also have to come up with thousands of dollars to fix it, just so it will run!
I’ve always been a fan of breaking the bike in how you plan on riding it 90% of the time.
And what about the Honda xr150 that is the same motorcycle of the past 15-20 years, how is the break in?
Thanks for the video, Yam.
I’ve been watching your videos religiously while I gear up to buy my 1st bike, a brand new CFMOTO 450SS.
The break in period has been one of the more confusing things for me to understand. However, after watching this I feel like I have some minute understanding of the scientific or mechanical importance of the break in and that makes me feel a little better. 🦑
Bro my 450ss took a dump before the 600 miles 😭
I have a question and haven’t been able to find an answer but simply does the bike sound different before and after the break in period or does the break in period not affect how it sounds?
For me, I'm soon gonna become a motorcycle rider and I'm thinking of getting a triumph bonneville t100, do y'all have any tips on the break-in stage for that bike?
I went on a tour of the triumph factory and the tour guide told us that there is no need for a break in period at all anymore for their bikes
I just hauled my bike(new 0 miles) home today in the back my truck, and I think I'll just ride it as I would normally do. I bought an after market exhaust but the service personnel at the dealership recommend leaving the factory exhaust until the 600 mile mark but I want to put on the exhaust already. Any input is greatly appreciated. TIA
if your not tuning/flashing then you can add the new exhaust now
I just got my beginner 400cc bike and i didn’t read the manual. For the first day, I rode my motorcycle reaching 127km but when I saw the manual on the next day, it says there I should limit my speed to 60kmph. Should I be worried?
Thank you
My uncle said "fukin send it" Just drive it. He said most engines are RTR-ready to ride from the factory.
My first ride stalled it by moving into gear without pressing clutch.
First 20p meter i went over 7rpm cause i was used to m car where i shift waay late and still in 4rpm.
So i kinda rev it high for few second
And drove 10rpm for 20 seconds.
I hope i didn't damaged it....
“Take heed to the manufacturer’s recommendations”
ZX4RR wants you to keep it at or below 4k rpm, I tried that and in 6th gear I was going 42 mph, I think that’s one recommendation I definitely won’t be listening to 💀
If the engines were tested at the factory did they run it before attaching the odometer?
I bought a new thumper for my first bike . Gotta take care of that piston. Its the only one I got.
The more important, that is more important. Is to be smooth on the gearbox and all the controls. They you also learn to be a much better rider. They you mostly don't get problems later, with hard to get into neutral… Or the bike get hard to get in or out of some of the gears. Or even that the bike sometimes jump out of gear.
Chancing the cylinder is noting compared to changing the gearbox. Or even fix some gears in the trans. That is when most people just buy a new engine, another part-bike or a new bike.
So it is more to let the gear box loosen up before you wear in the gears. Or they are going to be way to loose when the gearbox loosen up.
yeah Chris Moore himself bought a ZX10R and was roll racing it with like 50 miles on it.... he said the break in is for roookies...
This for a car, but engines are engines. I was once told by good mechanic, “drive it like you want it to run”.
i have a brand new r3 and was going very light on it in the beginning. i’m only at 400 miles. today i hit 11k rpm’s just for a couple seconds never consecutively. is that alright?
Thank You
.
I bought a grom brand new after breaking it in it had a misfire lol , unfortunately it was totaled
How did you break a unbreakable bike? It's a Honda?
First off... Use good gas ⛽ then run for an hour not hitting the low to mid RPM's Not too high, take a break let cool down a bit. To cool off and then get engine running temperature again is good to do. Stay off the highway... Keeping in mind that the brakes and tires are also breaking in the same time😢. The cables, chain, and other engine internals cam chain, piston rings, etc... just ride normal without pushing it ...
First oil change at 1000 klms, that is what my manual says, then every 5.000 kilometers. With a very good 100% synthetic oil.
Hey Yammie, I can’t fiend a good video explaining kickback form a kickstart moter cycle, could you explain ?
You had my trust until I saw the hipster with the man bun on the google machine with the mood lighting in the background.
For me as long as your mc is need power try not to limit it but try squeeze more power acceleration but not totally fully rev so after 100-300km I usually make a full throttle but limit time only until my mc power and fastened pickup
Whut?
Most manufacturers nowadays do the engine break-in for you. Such as Aprilia
I think you should load and unload the engine. You know, engine braking. Accelerate, cruise a bit, engine brake. Also lots of heat cycles.
i’d say ride your bike like how you want it to, my grandfather bought a new motorcycle and took the “soft break in” route, and because he babied his bike too much, it runs slower compared to the other same model bikes. Moral of the story, just run it like how you would want the bike to run. Don’t worry too much about breaking it, especially if it’s a japanese brand.
Love ya Yam
Was planning on getting a new bike this year (if so be my first new new one) and was thinking of how to break in. Gonna be a jump in engine size so the break-in period is probably going to be me getting used to the size difference
Sounds like you are going up in power way to early. You should then have no problem doing a stoppy on your new bike… And don't be bothered at all by some car pulling out in-front of you. Changing lanes to miss cars. You should not have to get used to the bigger weight or power of the bike. Then you need more training on your small bike. Training to be better on a bigger bike, is really much hard and much more dangerous. It is like talking 5-10+ years (or maybe never) to learn what take 1-2 years on a smaller bike.
@@Gismo3333 literally nobody on the planet moves up in power and size on a motorcycle without some kind of adjustment period. Nobody. Every, single person that has ever went from a 600 super sport to a liter bike has had to take a bit to train their muscle memory again to allow for the difference in acceleration.
Josh, you’re doing it the right way, man. It will take some time getting used to a bigger bike. Good luck and be safe, man.
Ya probably would have done this. A few months ago I bought a 2023 CRF250F new bud did not break it in😅
Broke in my 2020 Vulcan s probably the softest way imaginable. Sitting at 25k miles no problems. Even took it in for the 15k mile valve lash check and they said just come back at 30k miles. Although i am gonna be coming up on my second clutch change pretty soon clutch soon but that's normal.
2 clutches in 30,000 miles is NOT NORMAL.
@billbonu1639 depending on how u ride now. My first was misadjusted from factory so it only had enough friction for normal riding but would slip riding hard in the twisties
My experience might just be anecdotal, however I’ve owned around 20 bikes now. The one time I didn’t follow the manufacturer’s break in instructions, at only a few thousand the engine seized. YMMV (hopefully) and the manufacturer did replace the bike. Circumstantial? Who knows!
some may say the best way to break in a new bike is as 5 min long burnout in the parking lot of the dealer, dont forget the test that redline, after all you paid for it!
That is going to be really expensive 5 min. Do you really think the dealer is going to pay for the damaged, after 1-5 years when you are trying to sell that wreck?
@@Gismo3333 its a joke bro chill 🤣
Take it straight from the dealer to a track and keep it at red line until you reach the first thousand or so miles.
I rode my new gsxr 1000 r pretty normally for the first 375 miles didnt really go over 7-8krpm but used more load as miles increased and had some spirited rides, using plenty of throttle, bike never ran hard unless fully warmed up.
Had first service done at 375 then hit 10kish rpm and after 500 miles 10-12krpm here and there, had a long highway ride too tried to vary revs at this point i was in high 500s 600 miles.
I believe bike was pretty much run in way earlier than we think
Just my 2 pence
I prefer a combination break in.