UPDATE (May '17) in response to a question from a fellow Saaber I tried removing the 'resistor' to see if the relay coil resistance is enough to fool the car into thinking there is a bulb fitted. IT IS NOT. You will need the resistor.
You make a fair point. Different brands of relay will exhibit different coil resistances and some may well be enough on their own. From my pov though, I have to show people a method that's guaranteed to work if they follow it. If they are able to adapt and alter my method, that's great too but not everyone can do that.
I have a 2007 Saab 93. I love the video. Very informative. I wished I watched it before I purchased those canbus anti flicker/decoders. I'll test them out soon and let you know how they work. You the man
Hi Cyd - terrific video! Another way to solve the LED headlight flashing problem on a Saab 9-3 like yours without doing any wiring or adding any components: If you have a Tech2, go into Diagnostics->All->Add/Remove and tell it you're "adding" the UEC. This will re-run the configuration on the underhood electrical center. When it asks what bulbs you have, select Xenon 2 rather than Halogen, and this will end the flashing.
Thank you so much, I’ve used the info to fit a replacement LED bulbs for the low & high beams of the headlights of Opel Vectra C. At first l used a W5W (T10) bulb as as a resistor but it didn’t cancel the error. I used an H7 (55W) bulb instead and it works!! Now no more flicker or error messages 🎉
Hi Cyd, just did my headlights in my 2007 9-3 and it works like a charm. I used 8 Ohm resistors. will be doing reverse lights next and the Fog and reverse lights on my 2008 9-3. Thanks for the tips and know that I've watched a couple dozen of you vids, used a half dozen so far to debug and fix problems, and I love your style and simple methods. Will be implementing several more of them in the coming weeks.
I have a zafira b that im building custom rear lights but on my last set i had to paint the bulbs with high temp paint to allow the leds to work,is there another way that i can fool the canbus without using normal bulbs
Found the time to do this to my 05 aero last weekend. Works absolutely fine. Thank you very much. Now i have to trace down some really bright led bulbs as the ones i got are not good. 😁😁 Thank you again my friend and looking forward to the saab headlight conversion video of yours. 👍👍💪💪
I have this problem on my Audi A6 can I use a four pole relay as I have several. If so can you do a simple wiring diagram showing which wire to which terminal on the relay. Thank you in anticipation. You are the only person who has covered this issue properly.
Cyclone Cyd thanks, my issue as a novice is even if I buy five pole relays which numbers correspond to your descriptions ie live, earth etc. The issue is driving me to despair. Bruce
Wow glad I stumbled upon this video. I own a 2004 93SS and I've wanted to try replacing my exterior bulbs to LED after my local auto parts store just started stocking the latest Philips auto LED bulbs. I decided to start off small and attempt to change the side indicator markers on the fenders which are 194 5-watt bulbs over to the LED equivalents. I purchased the 5-watt in-line load resistor from philips and sure enough after temporarily placing it in parallel with the bulb it still would flash even with the car off and key removed. I have LED's in the license plate lights which also flash but only for a min after locking and activating the alarm. Out of all the exterior lights that I would like to change over were the brake lights...but now I guess that's on hold. Almost seems like too much trouble for what its worth. Thank you for posting this video. Please keep us informed if you find a work around for the PWM.
mraccord92 Thanks for the feedback. You're right, it is a fair bit of faff, but it's not really difficult and you can do it fairly quickly once you've done a couple. Personally I've only done my reverse lights, indicators and parking lights. Sorry, I haven't come up with a workaround for the PWM, even the electronics boys at work are stumped! You can get P21W halogen conversion bulbs, they are quite good but don't last long.
Your welcome Cyclone. I'm going to try and convert the front marker lights (is that what you are referring to as parking lights, the smal 194 5w bulbs in the headlight housing?) I'm trying to source some hella weatherproof relays to get it done. Depending how that goes I'm going to move onto the side and front indicator lights.
Yes, marker lights. Here in UK some call them 'side lights'; but properly they are called parking lights because that's what they are for, parking. Highway Code requires driving to be on dipped beam. Yeah, thanks for that, weatherproof is a good idea under the bonnet. those green automotive relays are only splash proof. You could always put them in a box or wrap with self amalgamating tape
Excellent video, well explained for electrical numpties like me. Have exactly the same issue on my Vectra c, flashing reversing lights, all sorted thanks to you. Cheers buddy 👍
RH tail light on a Saab 9-3 2008 estate not working did your trick with the bulb, just the bulb, used a small number plate bulb and holder works now :) thank you thank you thank you good man
Thank you so much for this video. Dumb question, for headlights, I'm assuming I will need to cut the wires to get rid of the bulb holder as I will simply just need the wires from the car? This has me a little nervous. Kinda like once you cut it off, your in it now and no going back!!
Good afternoon. I want to do the same thing on my saab,but for both rear position and indicator. I bought the resistors,I am looking for relays.Do you have any idea how to do the 2 bulb position in one relay or do I have to do it one by one.Cheers
Not possible. The rear position lights use PWM to control the brightness. Do this for front indicators ruclips.net/video/LjvxSXyzaMo/видео.html and this for rears ruclips.net/video/f7qvvc8o7pc/видео.html Both schemes use the same product. If you don't want the DRL or reverse function, leave the white wire disconnected. I am working on a scheme for the rear lights, but it'll be well into the New Year now.
Very helpful video but not working with all the bulbs I have an 08 9-3 convertible and I successfully install these relays on the reverse light. I tried on the fog lights and they working only when the car is off as soon I start the car the relays start to buzzing continually or try to make 1000 switches per second and the same thing is applying to the brake lights. Do you have any idea why is doing that?
@@CycloneCyd No the front fog lights. I try to change with Led's but no success because the relay is buzzing but is happening only when I start the car when the engine is off they work perfectly no strobe. I don't know why but for now I will stick with the originals. Thanks
Hello my friend! Congratulations for those videos about saab 9-3! They are so useful! I want to ask you about new LED systems using CANBUS control. They promise no errors or flickering. Do you know or have you tested if this is true? Thank you in advance!!
I did this to my car today for the dipped beam, worked fantastic, then once I waited for it to get dark, I drove down the road and 30 seconds later I got a right dip failure. All connections are fine, no fuses blown, when testing the relay it still clicks, any clues?
Not sure why but I've wired both reverse lights this way. One side is working fine but the drivers side will buzz then switch off momentarily after. I've tried several relays and they all do the same. Both wired up the same way, anything I may be doing wrong?
Hi Cyd, I have a somewhat different problem with trailer lights. So, I have a trailer module fitted to the 9-3. One turning signal light is LED. The other one is still a normal bulb. The LED does not light up and causes the indicator circuit to fast flash. The normal bulb works just fine. Any ideas why, and how to fix it?
After seeing your video, I had big plans! I should have paid better attention as I have an '03 9-3SS. and yeah, failure. Do you think adding a capacitor before the relay could make it work? I was hoping to use smaller relays, and that may have contributed to my failure.
My Vectra C has problems with flashing indicator lights on my trailer with led lights. I have resistors in the curcuit so no canbus errors but they don't prevent the flashing. Do you know if adding a relay will help? I was thinking of adding a capasitor instead?
The video is entirely about that point. YES. Electronics Engineers I spoke to when I made this didn't believe capacitor would work. But by all means try it and let me know how you get on.
I have a 2015 compass, bought a nice set of LEDs and noticed the lights would flicker so i bought some canbus decorders and the lights are still flickering but not as often....i dont know what to do, its always one thing after another, issue after issue. Do you have any idea what could be causing the lights to still flicker? Thanks in advance
I just changed to LED lights on the reverse lights on my saab 9-3, they do flash. I'm just wondering if it is necessary to fit relay? I don't mind the flashing and its only on the reverse lights
In the Uk it would fail MoT and be considered unroadworthy. It might also confuse a driver behind and if he were to hit you and could produce dashcam footage you would likely end up 50/50. And it might attract the attention of Dibble and That's the wrong sort of attention in my book.
Nice video! I know this is probably hidden in quite some comments, but I'd like to have a check with you on my project. I have substituted all my bulbs with LEDs on my Saab 9.3 cabrio (2006). High, Low and Fog. With engine running, I always have low beam on, so no pro there, but high beams and fog bulbs flickers (and it's not really fine, though it doesn't blind anybody). Do I need a separate relay+resistor wiring for all of them? If so, can I try an installation right after the cables exit the main computer unit, to try to keep all the wiring in order and tucked away? I understand it could take 6 relays/resistors, so it's a lot...Thanks for any help. Quick integration...would something packaged like the morimoto anti-flicker capacitor work? It's just one random product I found looking around and it seems pretty compact, if the connections are Saab compatible.
@@CycloneCyd Thanks, do you believe there is enough room there? Could it be possible to actually use the two 87 and 87A pins to connect 2 bulbs to one relay?
Would like to do this on my Audi A6, Bought the Relays and Resistors but looking at the bulb plug it has a shared earth with 2 other bulbs in the plug..any ideas tia
Thanks for the reply, My main concern is that if i use the negative going to the bulbs in the holder will it affect the operation of the other two bulbs which are working ok. The holder has three bulbs two for the rear lights and one reversing light bulb which i would like to fit a led bulb in...But only one negative for the three bulbs..Really dont know if the relay takes the negative out of the system untill its actuated or if the relay works in a different way. Hope you can help tia
@@mickd3244 You'll be okay using the common earth point. Far from 'overloading' the single earth wire, by installing LEDs you will actually reduce the current load it has to take. If you lift some of the nearby trim, you may find a body earth stud. Double check it's condition for corrosion or signs of damp, but if it looks good don't break the paint seal.
Got around to doing one side today and it works a treat, modded it a bit by leaving the bulb/resister out of the circuit..No bulb warning light and no flashing. Would like to share your video if thats ok..Thanks Mick
I installed a reverse led on my Audi and every time I turn the car on, the led is slightly on, you think this could help? Even with the lights off, with the car on they still glow a very small amount and brighten up 100% when put in reverse.
Great video and solution. I have used this to solve strobe in number plate leds and it worked. Used this in reverse leds and they throw an error from time to time, when reverse gear selected. Other times its fine. There are time when reverse gear selected, nothing is happening until few seconds in the reverse gear. It will throw an error and bulb will go off. Deselect the reverse and engage it again (with an error on the dash) and it will lit up the lights normally. Switch of the engine and back on and all comes back to normal, until reverse selected again. You might be ok or not. Several times I use Carista to remove errors but it always come back in odd time. This does not happen for plate leds at all. Any idea?
I bought some H7 LED bulbs and when i turn off the lights, the blink every 3-4 seconds. I have read that you can buy a decoder to put in between but dont know what to get. Can you give any advice or do a video showing how to do it on the low beam headlights?
Hi Mark, the method is exactly the same for any lamp position. Doing it on the reverse lights was just an example (and I needed super bright reverse lights).
I have a Vetra C too with a lot of 382 - P21W bulbs in it. Unfortunately, that is one of the expceptions mentioned at the end of the video. @Cyclone Cyd, did you find any workaround on this type of bulb? :(
Greetings, I have more of a particular situation. I got for a good price a set of Osram LEDriving Xenarc headlights for my Audi A4 B7, with some issues however. I managed to solve them, except one: the DRL(led) driver is faulty. It's the chip itself. So I want to connect the DRL directly, as parking lights, but when I tried, the flicker and the bulb errors were there. Do you think the diagram you mentioned in the video would work for me? Do I need any specific parts?
Hi I have a mercedes a class 2014 I put led h7 bulbs in and they start flashing on and off and them settle the drl comes on at the same time and stay on so what can be the problem.
Hi..I’m trying to replaced my normal headlight with the genuine xenon headlight, after few second when you start the car they cut off 😞 any idea or help???
Switching out the standard halogen headlights for the optional (or Aero) xenons is possible but it is an awful lot of work. Once all the parts have been fitted it needs programming with Tech2. There are easier options and I shall be doing a xenon headlight mini series later in the year.
Costantino Fortebracci I had this exact problem, the UEC doesn’t send enough power required to keep xenons running, u got 3 options, 1. Wire a separate switch and wire for only your xenon, 2. Wire a lead from +15 fuse to your headlight, which will always be on as long as key contact turned to on, will never flash or go out, 3. Go with tech 2 /dealer, I did option 2 so I could turn off the lights whenever I wanted, takes a bit of wiring, but worth it
Will you need to have one of those little resistors for every led light you want to swap in? For example, I want to change my low beams, high beams, city/parking lights, foglights, and license plate lights.
Love how you educated us car-fixing rookies with the how and why! I have a Saab 9-3 and the flicker from the LED headlights continue for a solid 20 to 25 minutes after I turn the car OFF! But the fix is so involved. If I just leave it, will it harm my car eventually?
Hi there i found this really helpful i have a vectra c and i did my side lights with the and worked a treat im going to do full beam and fog lights and just wondered if the same set up here will work for them thanks
Hi i am abit confused as to how to do the full beam light as the bulb only has a positive going to it and the negative is attached to the cluster do i just take my negative from the for the acting bulb
Do you mean in the sense that the power consumed by the flashing would deplete the battery charge? I would say NO. The energy in each flash is truly a tiny amount. Plus it only occurs when the vehicle is unlocked (running or not running). If it's unlocked but not running, ignition key out and doors closed the flashing will stop after about a minute anyway. The flashing will continue unabated all the time the engine is running, but the power (small as it is) comes from the alternator. The biggest issue is that here in the UK it would be an MoT fail and out on the road it might attract Dibbles attention. HTH
I have a 2010 convertible Saab 9-3 with this problem. I tried to install a rear park bulbs (whites) with resistor only, but it doesnt work. Then i bought a bulb holder to use both bulbs (LED bulb + oem bulb) and it works !!! Havent tryied with the tail lights (red ones). Btw i want a option to use LED bulbs with no problems. Please find the solution! Thank you so much for the video!
Universal 12V changeover relays if you're buying. Cheap enough in Maplin's or Radio Shack. Those green ones were 'rescued' from an old fusebox at a breakers yard. I've loads of them. Many cars have them. Tend to be smaller in newer cars
Hello again! I have recently purchased a HID kit for my 9-3 and i specifically chose a set that have a resistor/decoder on it but they are still flashing. On the forums a few of the guys have said they should not flash buying this type of HID kit. Any ideas?
My theory is that much of the confusion around what works and what doesn't is that people often say 'it works' after fitting something to an OG9-3 or even a 9-5 and seem to "forget" that the electrical system in a 9-3SS is completely different to either of these cars. Many cars only test the bulbs when they are switched on and for these cars the simple built in resistor works fine. For systems like the GM one that tests bulbs continuously even when they are off, it simply isn't enough. All the resistor does is absorb some of the energy of each test pulse but it still leaves enough to flash the LED. For these systems you need to use a relay and separate resistor as I show. An alternative is to buy a 2ndhand pair of xenon headlight units complete with ballasts etc, fit them to the car and have it programmed via Tech2 to 'know' it has xenons fitted. If you are in the UK, join "Saab 9-3 Owners UK" on Facebook - several members are breakers by trade. Elsewhere? Try 'Saab Nuts'
Cyclone Cyd Yeah I’m thinking I’ll just have to follow these instructions for my HID setup then. I take it I’ll have to make sure I do all the splicing connections before the ballast? Yeah I’m a part of that forum already it’s a great platform! Thank you for your help
I haven't fitted HIDs with this method 'cos my car already has them. I can't think why it shouldn't work though. Do let me know how you get on. Happy Saabing!
I've fitted HID conversions in 2 9-3 SS and they don't flash, the way they work and the wiring connections are not remotely like an LED, the Canbus system throws an error as it can't see the light element it expects, what it sees is the ballast that triggers the HID. Also none of the kits required any splicing of anything.
@@CycloneCyd same here. A lot of geometry to sort and also electrical. Was holding out on them first as struggling to find a front to rear interior light ribbon. Hard to get for the vectra c
Hi cyclone what wattage do you have to use on the resistor because I used 50w resistor but it didn't work at all still has pulsation on led turn signal do I use the 25w one? thanks
Juan Nunez Roman hi, it should be able to work with either wattage as long as the resistance is correct (6 ohms ish). 50W is better because of the vehicle voltage maybe as high as 14.5V and the power dissipated becomes nearly 30W. Would be a problem where the bulb is on continuously but shouldn't be for indicators. Does that help?
Hi, very explanatory video. I got similar bulb-check issue on my Saab 9-3, but only with reversing camera, which has LEDs for illumination. I've connected this tiny camera simply to reversing light bulb with one cable (positive) and negative to to screw next to rear lights cluster. Problem: When not in Reverse, the camera leds flashes like in your case without relay. The question is, how to wire it correctly, so the leds from camera stop flashing during my 'Saab 9-3 light bulb checking'. And when I select to reverse the reversing light bulb would go on like normally. Not sure if resistor would not disable my regular 12v reversing light bulb. Any suggestions are welcome. The connected camera does not cause any error message on dash. It just flashes in regular intervals.
+T. Bezak Thanks for watching and the kind words. Yeah, it sounds like the check pulses are having a similar effect on the camera as they do on LED bulbs. In the long term it might damage the camera. Yes, use a relay. You only need an on/off relay or use the 'no' connections if it's a changeover relay. Wire the relay coil to the light and earth. Take a feed from the rear fusebox (left side of boot) and connect to one side of the coil (com if changeover) and the other side of coil to camera. Camera negative direct to earth. Make sense??
@@CycloneCyd Bought the 4 way relay from your link and got it working! Leds don't blink during normal ride, my Saab won't give any errors, reversing bulb and camera tŕň on when selected reverse. Thanks again.
Ok so I hooked up everything as you did and it works great , no flashing BUT I get an error message on my sid. I did use a 6 ohm 50w resistor. I used this setup on h7 led high beams. Any ideas boss?
You watch. When you find it, it'll be summat real simple and you'll kick yourself. It's always the way. Leave it for a few days and then come back at it with fresh eyes.
Cyclone Cyd i've honestly followed every single step but still. I even checked the resistor . I tried using two resistors even. But still , error message in sid
Philroy littlekip I used resistors but I've scrapped this project because I suspect it dosent work for high beams (h7). Probably because of higher currents?
Hi Shane, yes you need the relay. the resistor fools the system so you get no error message, the relay separates the LED so it does not flash with the check pulses.
Cyclone Cyd I used scotch blocks instead of splitting the wires. Could this be the problem? The h7 led lights came with a harness with a built in resistor so I spliced in to those wires with scotch blocks to attach the relay.
Hey what if I wanna replace my interior lights with led bulbs? Is it as easy as just switching them out or do I have to do anything special? Will they flicker?
Hi I have realys very similar to the ones used altho the diagram is different and 85 and 86 are reversed can these be used or do they need to be exact??
Hi Marc, Thanks for watching, welcome aboard. All that matters is they are changeover relays and you can identify the NO and NC (normally open and normally closed, resp.) contacts. I don't know whether the pin layout or numbering are 'standard' or not, but they don't matter as long as you can meet the requirements of sentence 1.
Have shared your vid with a few others who tried n failed as I did b4 finding your vid. But, I also have a Saab 9-3 Aero Cabrio on a 55 plate. If doing as you have for the reverse lights, provided the resistors are in line for each bulb separately, can we connect in BOTH reversing bulbs to the same Relay without any hassle? After all, its only a relay and should be able to handle a pair of lights!!
Good thinking Batman! Hi Mark, yes I think you could. You'll need a resistor at both positions (because the system detects the bulbs sequentially), but you could use one relay and just connect the two bulb positives together across the boot. You could do the same on the front parking lights and main beam assists too. Thanks for sharing, glad people are getting value from it. Let us know how you get on.
@@CycloneCyd Cheers. Just a quickie, for those who don't know the relay terminology, might be good idea to simply list the numbers on relay and which connects to what.... 85 - Positive feed from car 86 - Negative feed 87 - Positive feed to LED 87a - Positive from Inline bulb 30 - Split from Car feed in 85. Errr.... Think thats correct ??? Pls confirm lol
Now you've got me confused! The diagram has the pin numbers plus descriptions. Can you be more specific about what you're having trouble with? Why not try printing it out or screen shotting it so you can study it?
85= Earth on bulb holder connector which goes through the resistor 30= Bulb positive and goes to 86 87a= Positive from resistor 87= Bulb Positive I am trying to do this on an estate Thanks
I have fitted a reverse camera in my car and connected it from the reverse bulb wire. At the same time i have canbus led installed on the reverse light instead of bulbs. Before the reverse camera installation i had no canbus error. But after the reverse camera installation it is giving error ''Reverse light right side failure'' Can u please help what can i do ?
Hi Amy, thanks for watching and interacting. Both the camera and 'canbus' LED need to treated to the method I show. you can connect them both on the output side of the relay. The resistance of the camera is disturbing the bulb check system. If the camera has an LED of it's own you may see it flashing. Also the check pulses every few seconds may have an undesirable effect on the life of the camera electronics. using a relay as shown will mean both LED and camera are disconnected from the car when not in use.
Hello again. Just one more question and i will start the procedure. How many amps relay should i put in for the reverse light led bulb and reverse camera ? And which resistor as well?
@@amydarocker6531 IIRC the resistor should be 5.6ohm - the value is in the video somewhere. The LED only pulls a handfull of mA, even the smallest relays will handle that okay. You must get one with a 12v coil though! I'm sure there's a link to an example relay in the description.
So I tried this method to get H7 low beam bulbs to work on a Vectra C. The flashing-when-off is gone, but when the ignition is on and the lights are off, I get a dead bulb-error. I tried putting it together so it only uses the two connections from the headlight, meaning that all ground connections go to the former bulb connector. And since the low beams did flicker slightly when the engine was running, I had to also connect the "canbus decoder" box that came with the lamps. I'm not really sure what's inside those, so I don't know if that's to blame for the error message, but since I put the relay first, then the box, then the LED bulb, I'm thinking it shouldn't. I've also tried wiring two of the 6 Ohm resistors in parallel rather than just one, but that still didn't help... Any ideas?
I must have re-done the wiring at least 3 times, I'm pretty sure I got it right. Resistor was always at 87a, and unless Bosch does NO and NC differently than everybody else, it should have worked. Anyway I managed to somehow blow one of the lamps up, and in my frustration and anger I chucked the whole thing in the garbage, so that's the end of that...
Just fitted hid into my 9-3 front projectors and tried Your method, result ...fail . All was looking fine but shortly after ignition on i got bulb failure message, when car start checking wiring circuit i heard clicks... that was relay clicking when getting signal from canbus so simply relay is energizing and switching between hid and 50w resistor resulting in dash error. Im just about to order Time Delay Relay SPDT 10 second ON (from china as is cheap) so that should eliminate this problem as You have power relay constantly for 10s to energize and switch over from resistor to hid or led. Soon as i receive this relays and test i will update result.
@@CycloneCyd Will do, just ordered those time delayed relays so now is just the matter of delivery time from China, once i get them i will update with result👍
Just a wee update, i got my Time Delay Relay 3-5s delay and its working!!! So from now when i turn front lights on after 3 seconds relay energize and switch my aftermarket hid without throwing error. But got another issue , cant use those 55w resistors because they are giving error(i guess short circuit) so instead i hooked up orange indigator bulbs they have around 0.6ohm of resistance and passing canbus checks fine. Those 55w resistors have arround 6.0 ohms(cant remember exactly) and probably its too high resistance for canbus check when lights are off. Do any one know 12v ceramic resistor with arround 0.5ohm resistance who will resist full 12v load for arround 3-4 sec without firing up? Other vise standard bulb is a solution.
@@CycloneCyd thanks for your reply. Is it true that these resistors produce a lot of heat? Of course reverse lights are on for a small period of time, so heat wont be an issue, but fogs can be on for a lot of time. If those resistors produce heat then it will be dangerous if they are close to other wires and/or insulation etc. What do you thing?
+Theodoros Stokkos Yes, the resistors do get hot. As you say reverse lights won't because they're hardly used but other lights will. Best therefore to mount the resistors on metalwork and with some air space around them, especially at the 55W positions (55W of heat!!). I'd say make sure there's an inch of separation from wiring or soft plastic parts.
Here's one for you to look at pls. 60 " Triple led rear light bar by Ambother. Similar to Opt 7 We cut the the plug off as vw caddy does not have a hitch plug. It is a canbus vehicle Wiring for led bar Brown earth White running lights Yellow and green connect to left indicator and right indicator. Seperate Red for reverse. The vehicles brake light connects to both yellow and green ie The same connector as the indicators. Ing off..... We have red Running light . Sequential amber turn and hazard. Reverse Brake lights. Turn ignition on....reverse is ok Then things go wrong. Indicators flash only 4"" instead of sequential for 30 " Etc. Running light flickers instead of solid. Any ideas how to correct this issue?
Chung Chee Hwee watch the video through a few times to make sure you understand what's going on. Then why not practice on a reverse light before moving on to the main beam? If you find yourself getting muddled just take a break. It's a lot to take in and does cause a lot of confusion. It took me a while to work this out! You'll get it. Good luck.
I had it done on the number plate lights and it did worked. Thank you for that. Your video was recommended on Audi owners forum and I used this on A6 Avant. Did exactly the same with both reversed bulbs and have problems. During the day, when light sensor switch off driving lights, I get instant error on DIS, when reverse gear selected. First for one bulb and than the other, as they are separate on two separate circuits. Computer still try to see them and I can hear relay going off and on but eventually lights go off. During the night or low light, it does work and can hear relay going on. If I stay too long on the rear gear (20-25 seconds), relays will go off, DIS will throw error and situation with relay on/off happens again. It will go off completely after 3 tries. After both situations, if I select reverse gear again, no light will come on. If I drive around a bit, it will switch the light on but the error on the dash will remain. When I switch off the ignition and repete above in day or night, same thing happens. I've installed load resistors and all is good but canbus bulb check flashes the leds every 30 second in a sequence around the car. It does look a bit like a driving disco, as got leds nearly everywhere. Number plates are fine, with that method but have both front and rear indicators led, reverse leds and front fogs led. Thinking of installing capacitors but worry about the power accumulated to go off somewhere where it shouldn't and when it shouldn't. Anyone can suggest solution or recommend other method of solving canbus led bulb flash?
Andrew H Oh yes, the method for the parking lights will be exactly the same. It works for all bulb positions except the tail and brake lights (they use PWM method to dim down to 5W equivalent on 21W bulbs). Works for indicators too. Just add in to do your wiring a bit neater than shown. This wiring was being hidden behind the boot trim so I concentrated on the method more than neatness. And check out ebay item 331760123683 for suitable resistors at a pound apiece.
top job mate. would the bulb still work as a decent resistor like you've done? if thats the case i got some of these i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Nq0AAOSwgDRZcGtV/s-l1600.jpg and 501 bulb holders to go with it :)
Well, firstly get my EGR blanked and mapped out first. then work on the lights.. oo and not forgetting a bumper repair as a bloody huge rabbit ran out in road last night and slammed right into the front.. nice!
Hello, I have a Vectra C 2008 year. I take a led to front side light (W5W aka parking light) but if the ignition is off, the leds are flashing. If i buy only a resistor is enought (39 ohm 10W) , or I need a relay and resistor too, for the solution?
I want to do LED tail lights and rear signals... But I feel like I'd burn my car to the ground before I got it to work 🤣 I've been running the LED tails for awhile now but I'm tired of the flashing 😫
Problem is I’m trying to reply what you’re doing on your car in my car and the terms and connections your making, I can’t relate them in the diagram you show at the end of the video. I know it’s fancy to talk electrician language with “earth” and “feed” but trust me, you make a damn drawing with a pencil showing HOW and WHAT TO WHAT connects would be much much much simpler and accessible to all of us. Your video is like you’re talking to yourself and not for an audience. Yes, I’m mad, but with a reason....DAMN!!!!!.....
UPDATE (May '17) in response to a question from a fellow Saaber I tried removing the 'resistor' to see if the relay coil resistance is enough to fool the car into thinking there is a bulb fitted. IT IS NOT. You will need the resistor.
Hi I just put super bright led's in my reverse lights and did NOT need a resistor or extra bulb! guess it boils down to what relay you choose..
You make a fair point. Different brands of relay will exhibit different coil resistances and some may well be enough on their own.
From my pov though, I have to show people a method that's guaranteed to work if they follow it. If they are able to adapt and alter my method, that's great too but not everyone can do that.
@@chrisjdoran what kins of relay did you use?
I have a 2007 Saab 93. I love the video. Very informative. I wished I watched it before I purchased those canbus anti flicker/decoders. I'll test them out soon and let you know how they work. You the man
@@donmedlock3631 So? How do they work?
Hi Cyd - terrific video! Another way to solve the LED headlight flashing problem on a Saab 9-3 like yours without doing any wiring or adding any components: If you have a Tech2, go into Diagnostics->All->Add/Remove and tell it you're "adding" the UEC. This will re-run the configuration on the underhood electrical center. When it asks what bulbs you have, select Xenon 2 rather than Halogen, and this will end the flashing.
Thank you so much,
I’ve used the info to fit a replacement LED bulbs for the low & high beams of the headlights of Opel Vectra C.
At first l used a W5W (T10) bulb as as a resistor but it didn’t cancel the error. I used an H7 (55W) bulb instead and it works!!
Now no more flicker or error messages 🎉
Hi Cyd, just did my headlights in my 2007 9-3 and it works like a charm. I used 8 Ohm resistors. will be doing reverse lights next and the Fog and reverse lights on my 2008 9-3. Thanks for the tips and know that I've watched a couple dozen of you vids, used a half dozen so far to debug and fix problems, and I love your style and simple methods. Will be implementing several more of them in the coming weeks.
did you change the daytime running lights on the 08 93 to LED? any issues?
Excellent. This is a fantastic video and got my leds working without an issue in my 93. Thank you very much!
You're welcome!
I have a zafira b that im building custom rear lights but on my last set i had to paint the bulbs with high temp paint to allow the leds to work,is there another way that i can fool the canbus without using normal bulbs
Used this technique for my front headlights on my Saab 9-3 works a treat thought I was going to have to stick to halogen for a while
I've got a headlight refurb project coming up soon. Fitting new projectors. You could 'upgrade' to HID projectors. 👍
How did you handle the bulb connector on the car for the headlights? Did you have to cut it off to connect from the bulb to the relay?
@@Travelwithleo No, don't cut the connector off. Use 5.3mm spades to connect into it.
Like these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293305356049
Travel With Leo no managed to build a connector that fit into the original and branch off to the relay box
Found the time to do this to my 05 aero last weekend. Works absolutely fine. Thank you very much. Now i have to trace down some really bright led bulbs as the ones i got are not good. 😁😁 Thank you again my friend and looking forward to the saab headlight conversion video of yours. 👍👍💪💪
Thank you soooo much, I was ripping my hair out thinking I'd have to bin my new high beam bulbs, but this has worked a treat, thanks again
Cheers Lee. Do share the good news around!
Cool. This explains the ticking sound I heard from the rear lights the other day when the car was off. It was actually checking the light bulbs.
YES. I don't get the ticking but others have mentioned it
I have this problem on my Audi A6 can I use a four pole relay as I have several. If so can you do a simple wiring diagram showing which wire to which terminal on the relay. Thank you in anticipation. You are the only person who has covered this issue properly.
Thank you, Bruce. TBH, I'm not certain, but I think you could. You'd have to re-imagine the wiring diagram.
Cyclone Cyd thanks, my issue as a novice is even if I buy five pole relays which numbers correspond to your descriptions ie live, earth etc. The issue is driving me to despair.
Bruce
Wow glad I stumbled upon this video. I own a 2004 93SS and I've wanted to try replacing my exterior bulbs to LED after my local auto parts store just started stocking the latest Philips auto LED bulbs. I decided to start off small and attempt to change the side indicator markers on the fenders which are 194 5-watt bulbs over to the LED equivalents. I purchased the 5-watt in-line load resistor from philips and sure enough after temporarily placing it in parallel with the bulb it still would flash even with the car off and key removed. I have LED's in the license plate lights which also flash but only for a min after locking and activating the alarm. Out of all the exterior lights that I would like to change over were the brake lights...but now I guess that's on hold. Almost seems like too much trouble for what its worth. Thank you for posting this video. Please keep us informed if you find a work around for the PWM.
mraccord92 Thanks for the feedback. You're right, it is a fair bit of faff, but it's not really difficult and you can do it fairly quickly once you've done a couple. Personally I've only done my reverse lights, indicators and parking lights.
Sorry, I haven't come up with a workaround for the PWM, even the electronics boys at work are stumped! You can get P21W halogen conversion bulbs, they are quite good but don't last long.
Your welcome Cyclone. I'm going to try and convert the front marker lights (is that what you are referring to as parking lights, the smal 194 5w bulbs in the headlight housing?) I'm trying to source some hella weatherproof relays to get it done. Depending how that goes I'm going to move onto the side and front indicator lights.
Yes, marker lights. Here in UK some call them 'side lights'; but properly they are called parking lights because that's what they are for, parking. Highway Code requires driving to be on dipped beam.
Yeah, thanks for that, weatherproof is a good idea under the bonnet. those green automotive relays are only splash proof.
You could always put them in a box or wrap with self amalgamating tape
Excellent video, well explained for electrical numpties like me. Have exactly the same issue on my Vectra c, flashing reversing lights, all sorted thanks to you.
Cheers buddy 👍
Glad it helped. Don't forget that many of the 9-3 videos also apply to the Vectra C. 🖖
@@CycloneCyd I needed this fix on my vectra C too so hoping this works
Can you please explain by numbers on the relay of reversing Led lights modifications,thanks
Hi Miri, sorry I don't understand the question. There is a wiring diagram in the video with relay terminal numbers on (I think - I hope I did)
RH tail light on a Saab 9-3 2008 estate not working did your trick with the bulb, just the bulb, used a small number plate bulb and holder works now :) thank you thank you thank you good man
Thanks for your excellent vids Cyd. Another project for me!
My pleasure!
Thank you so much for this video. Dumb question, for headlights, I'm assuming I will need to cut the wires to get rid of the bulb holder as I will simply just need the wires from the car? This has me a little nervous. Kinda like once you cut it off, your in it now and no going back!!
No, don't cut the connector off. Use 5.3mm spades to connect into it.
Like these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293305356049
Mate, wow! Told you it was a dumb question. Thanks for helping a newbie that knows nothing about electricity!
can you do this using just the orange resistor like you show in the on screen description?
No, relays are a must with ordinary resistors
Good afternoon. I want to do the same thing on my saab,but for both rear position and indicator. I bought the resistors,I am looking for relays.Do you have any idea how to do the 2 bulb position in one relay or do I have to do it one by one.Cheers
Not possible. The rear position lights use PWM to control the brightness.
Do this for front indicators ruclips.net/video/LjvxSXyzaMo/видео.html
and this for rears ruclips.net/video/f7qvvc8o7pc/видео.html
Both schemes use the same product. If you don't want the DRL or reverse function, leave the white wire disconnected.
I am working on a scheme for the rear lights, but it'll be well into the New Year now.
Very helpful video but not working with all the bulbs I have an 08 9-3 convertible and I successfully install these relays on the reverse light. I tried on the fog lights and they working only when the car is off as soon I start the car the relays start to buzzing continually or try to make 1000 switches per second and the same thing is applying to the brake lights. Do you have any idea why is doing that?
Rear fogs I presume? Must be PWM controlled like the brake and tail lights.
@@CycloneCyd No the front fog lights. I try to change with Led's but no success because the relay is buzzing but is happening only when I start the car when the engine is off they work perfectly no strobe. I don't know why but for now I will stick with the originals. Thanks
Hello my friend! Congratulations for those videos about saab 9-3! They are so useful! I want to ask you about new LED systems using CANBUS control. They promise no errors or flickering. Do you know or have you tested if this is true? Thank you in advance!!
can you show this link with diagram?I would be grateful
Where did you connect 86? The last cable you connected
Hi Tolga, here:
docs.google.com/presentation/d/1F_0L3iHLpOgyr7BfzvJb8lQcm1y6U2je9umdOSq-Kvw/edit?usp=sharing
I did this to my car today for the dipped beam, worked fantastic, then once I waited for it to get dark, I drove down the road and 30 seconds later I got a right dip failure.
All connections are fine, no fuses blown, when testing the relay it still clicks, any clues?
Not sure why but I've wired both reverse lights this way. One side is working fine but the drivers side will buzz then switch off momentarily after. I've tried several relays and they all do the same. Both wired up the same way, anything I may be doing wrong?
Great video, one of the best on here. Quick question, would I have to used your method on both left and right side or does one side handle both?
Hi Cyd, I have a somewhat different problem with trailer lights. So, I have a trailer module fitted to the 9-3. One turning signal light is LED. The other one is still a normal bulb. The LED does not light up and causes the indicator circuit to fast flash. The normal bulb works just fine. Any ideas why, and how to fix it?
After seeing your video, I had big plans! I should have paid better attention as I have an '03 9-3SS. and yeah, failure. Do you think adding a capacitor before the relay could make it work? I was hoping to use smaller relays, and that may have contributed to my failure.
My Vectra C has problems with flashing indicator lights on my trailer with led lights. I have resistors in the curcuit so no canbus errors but they don't prevent the flashing.
Do you know if adding a relay will help? I was thinking of adding a capasitor instead?
The video is entirely about that point. YES. Electronics Engineers I spoke to when I made this didn't believe capacitor would work. But by all means try it and let me know how you get on.
@Cyclone Cyd Thanks, it's the side lights /turn lights that flashes on my trailer, just to clarify.
I have a 2015 compass, bought a nice set of LEDs and noticed the lights would flicker so i bought some canbus decorders and the lights are still flickering but not as often....i dont know what to do, its always one thing after another, issue after issue. Do you have any idea what could be causing the lights to still flicker? Thanks in advance
I just changed to LED lights on the reverse lights on my saab 9-3, they do flash. I'm just wondering if it is necessary to fit relay? I don't mind the flashing and its only on the reverse lights
In the Uk it would fail MoT and be considered unroadworthy. It might also confuse a driver behind and if he were to hit you and could produce dashcam footage you would likely end up 50/50. And it might attract the attention of Dibble and That's the wrong sort of attention in my book.
what happens if you have multiple LED lights in one ie. brakes lights, indicators and parks....?? how does relay work on brakes and parks?
One relay per bulb
Nice video! I know this is probably hidden in quite some comments, but I'd like to have a check with you on my project. I have substituted all my bulbs with LEDs on my Saab 9.3 cabrio (2006). High, Low and Fog. With engine running, I always have low beam on, so no pro there, but high beams and fog bulbs flickers (and it's not really fine, though it doesn't blind anybody). Do I need a separate relay+resistor wiring for all of them? If so, can I try an installation right after the cables exit the main computer unit, to try to keep all the wiring in order and tucked away? I understand it could take 6 relays/resistors, so it's a lot...Thanks for any help.
Quick integration...would something packaged like the morimoto anti-flicker capacitor work? It's just one random product I found looking around and it seems pretty compact, if the connections are Saab compatible.
yes you need a relay for each bulb. Don't see why you couldn't do it at the BCM, would be tidier
@@CycloneCyd Thanks, do you believe there is enough room there? Could it be possible to actually use the two 87 and 87A pins to connect 2 bulbs to one relay?
@@giuliomorandini3137 not sure about the room, I haven't looked. One relay per 2 bulbs? Yeah, I think it'd work.
Would like to do this on my Audi A6, Bought the Relays and Resistors but looking at the bulb plug it has a shared earth with 2 other bulbs in the plug..any ideas tia
That's quite normal for a cluster of say, 3-5 bulbs, to share one negative (earth).
Thanks for the reply, My main concern is that if i use the negative going to the bulbs in the holder will it affect the operation of the other two bulbs which are working ok. The holder has three bulbs two for the rear lights and one reversing light bulb which i would like to fit a led bulb in...But only one negative for the three bulbs..Really dont know if the relay takes the negative out of the system untill its actuated or if the relay works in a different way. Hope you can help tia
@@mickd3244 You'll be okay using the common earth point. Far from 'overloading' the single earth wire, by installing LEDs you will actually reduce the current load it has to take.
If you lift some of the nearby trim, you may find a body earth stud. Double check it's condition for corrosion or signs of damp, but if it looks good don't break the paint seal.
@@CycloneCyd Thanks, got the trim stripped out today, will fit the relays and resistors in the next couple of days.Let you know the results.
Got around to doing one side today and it works a treat, modded it a bit by leaving the bulb/resister out of the circuit..No bulb warning light and no flashing. Would like to share your video if thats ok..Thanks Mick
I installed a reverse led on my Audi and every time I turn the car on, the led is slightly on, you think this could help? Even with the lights off, with the car on they still glow a very small amount and brighten up 100% when put in reverse.
I think this would probably help that. Try it on one light and let us know how it goes
Great video and solution. I have used this to solve strobe in number plate leds and it worked.
Used this in reverse leds and they throw an error from time to time, when reverse gear selected. Other times its fine.
There are time when reverse gear selected, nothing is happening until few seconds in the reverse gear. It will throw an error and bulb will go off. Deselect the reverse and engage it again (with an error on the dash) and it will lit up the lights normally.
Switch of the engine and back on and all comes back to normal, until reverse selected again. You might be ok or not.
Several times I use Carista to remove errors but it always come back in odd time.
This does not happen for plate leds at all.
Any idea?
I bought some H7 LED bulbs and when i turn off the lights, the blink every 3-4 seconds. I have read that you can buy a decoder to put in between but dont know what to get. Can you give any advice or do a video showing how to do it on the low beam headlights?
Hi Mark, the method is exactly the same for any lamp position. Doing it on the reverse lights was just an example (and I needed super bright reverse lights).
Hi I have a Vectra c is there a way to stop flickering on rear light/brake light ? Or is it not possible at all?
I have a Vetra C too with a lot of 382 - P21W bulbs in it. Unfortunately, that is one of the expceptions mentioned at the end of the video. @Cyclone Cyd, did you find any workaround on this type of bulb? :(
Not yet. I'm still looking though
Greetings, I have more of a particular situation. I got for a good price a set of Osram LEDriving Xenarc headlights for my Audi A4 B7, with some issues however. I managed to solve them, except one: the DRL(led) driver is faulty. It's the chip itself. So I want to connect the DRL directly, as parking lights, but when I tried, the flicker and the bulb errors were there.
Do you think the diagram you mentioned in the video would work for me? Do I need any specific parts?
Hi I have a mercedes a class 2014 I put led h7 bulbs in and they start flashing on and off and them settle the drl comes on at the same time and stay on so what can be the problem.
Hi..I’m trying to replaced my normal headlight with the genuine xenon headlight, after few second when you start the car they cut off 😞 any idea or help???
Switching out the standard halogen headlights for the optional (or Aero) xenons is possible but it is an awful lot of work. Once all the parts have been fitted it needs programming with Tech2.
There are easier options and I shall be doing a xenon headlight mini series later in the year.
Cyclone Cyd is Three any chance to play something only with the wiring? Or if you have any diagrams
Costantino Fortebracci I had this exact problem, the UEC doesn’t send enough power required to keep xenons running, u got 3 options, 1. Wire a separate switch and wire for only your xenon, 2. Wire a lead from +15 fuse to your headlight, which will always be on as long as key contact turned to on, will never flash or go out, 3. Go with tech 2 /dealer, I did option 2 so I could turn off the lights whenever I wanted, takes a bit of wiring, but worth it
do I need to do this with my 2001 Saab 95 headlights?
I'm not 100% certain, but I don't think in 2001 Saabs were quite so "canbus heavy". So, I think, no. Please let us know how you get on.
Will you need to have one of those little resistors for every led light you want to swap in? For example, I want to change my low beams, high beams, city/parking lights, foglights, and license plate lights.
1 resistor per bulb yes
@@CycloneCyd oof lol. That's a lot ot resistors so fuck that plan😂 I guess I'll just live with the flicker
Love how you educated us car-fixing rookies with the how and why! I have a Saab 9-3 and the flicker from the LED headlights continue for a solid 20 to 25 minutes after I turn the car OFF! But the fix is so involved. If I just leave it, will it harm my car eventually?
Hi there i found this really helpful i have a vectra c and i did my side lights with the and worked a treat im going to do full beam and fog lights and just wondered if the same set up here will work for them thanks
Hi i am abit confused as to how to do the full beam light as the bulb only has a positive going to it and the negative is attached to the cluster do i just take my negative from the for the acting bulb
Hi James, welcome aboard. many of my 9-3 videos are relevant to Vec C too.
Yes, exactly the same for all positions except tail/brake
@@CycloneCyd thanks mate i got them all done very happy lol
Could the LED flashing kill the battery?
Do you mean in the sense that the power consumed by the flashing would deplete the battery charge? I would say NO. The energy in each flash is truly a tiny amount. Plus it only occurs when the vehicle is unlocked (running or not running). If it's unlocked but not running, ignition key out and doors closed the flashing will stop after about a minute anyway. The flashing will continue unabated all the time the engine is running, but the power (small as it is) comes from the alternator. The biggest issue is that here in the UK it would be an MoT fail and out on the road it might attract Dibbles attention.
HTH
I have a 2010 convertible Saab 9-3 with this problem. I tried to install a rear park bulbs (whites) with resistor only, but it doesnt work. Then i bought a bulb holder to use both bulbs (LED bulb + oem bulb) and it works !!! Havent tryied with the tail lights (red ones). Btw i want a option to use LED bulbs with no problems. Please find the solution! Thank you so much for the video!
Thanks Nico
Let me know if you have any Saab related requests!
Yep, one thing, where i can buy those Relays? or tell me are universal 12V relay?
Universal 12V changeover relays if you're buying. Cheap enough in Maplin's or Radio Shack.
Those green ones were 'rescued' from an old fusebox at a breakers yard. I've loads of them. Many cars have them. Tend to be smaller in newer cars
12v 20A? or 30A?
Minimum 5A contacts to suit the bulb. P21W pulls less than 2A
Hello again! I have recently purchased a HID kit for my 9-3 and i specifically chose a set that have a resistor/decoder on it but they are still flashing. On the forums a few of the guys have said they should not flash buying this type of HID kit. Any ideas?
My theory is that much of the confusion around what works and what doesn't is that people often say 'it works' after fitting something to an OG9-3 or even a 9-5 and seem to "forget" that the electrical system in a 9-3SS is completely different to either of these cars. Many cars only test the bulbs when they are switched on and for these cars the simple built in resistor works fine. For systems like the GM one that tests bulbs continuously even when they are off, it simply isn't enough. All the resistor does is absorb some of the energy of each test pulse but it still leaves enough to flash the LED. For these systems you need to use a relay and separate resistor as I show.
An alternative is to buy a 2ndhand pair of xenon headlight units complete with ballasts etc, fit them to the car and have it programmed via Tech2 to 'know' it has xenons fitted.
If you are in the UK, join "Saab 9-3 Owners UK" on Facebook - several members are breakers by trade. Elsewhere? Try 'Saab Nuts'
Cyclone Cyd Yeah I’m thinking I’ll just have to follow these instructions for my HID setup then. I take it I’ll have to make sure I do all the splicing connections before the ballast? Yeah I’m a part of that forum already it’s a great platform! Thank you for your help
I haven't fitted HIDs with this method 'cos my car already has them. I can't think why it shouldn't work though. Do let me know how you get on. Happy Saabing!
I've fitted HID conversions in 2 9-3 SS and they don't flash, the way they work and the wiring connections are not remotely like an LED, the Canbus system throws an error as it can't see the light element it expects, what it sees is the ballast that triggers the HID. Also none of the kits required any splicing of anything.
@Cyclone Cyd Very good video even if iam late finding it lol. Have you managed to find a way round the Brake/tail light issues yet? The P21W ones?
I've got a plan, just need to get round to it. The car needs bigger work this year first.
@@CycloneCyd same here. A lot of geometry to sort and also electrical. Was holding out on them first as struggling to find a front to rear interior light ribbon. Hard to get for the vectra c
can you make out wiring diagram?
Sorry jb, but I'm not understanding your question. The wiring diagram is in the video.
Hi how to stop led lights on head lights flashing thanks
Hi cyclone what wattage do you have to use on the resistor because I used 50w resistor but it didn't work at all still has pulsation on led turn signal do I use the 25w one? thanks
Juan Nunez Roman hi, it should be able to work with either wattage as long as the resistance is correct (6 ohms ish). 50W is better because of the vehicle voltage maybe as high as 14.5V and the power dissipated becomes nearly 30W. Would be a problem where the bulb is on continuously but shouldn't be for indicators.
Does that help?
Hi, very explanatory video. I got similar bulb-check issue on my Saab 9-3, but only with reversing camera, which has LEDs for illumination. I've connected this tiny camera simply to reversing light bulb with one cable (positive) and negative to to screw next to rear lights cluster. Problem: When not in Reverse, the camera leds flashes like in your case without relay. The question is, how to wire it correctly, so the leds from camera stop flashing during my 'Saab 9-3 light bulb checking'. And when I select to reverse the reversing light bulb would go on like normally. Not sure if resistor would not disable my regular 12v reversing light bulb. Any suggestions are welcome.
The connected camera does not cause any error message on dash. It just flashes in regular intervals.
+T. Bezak Thanks for watching and the kind words. Yeah, it sounds like the check pulses are having a similar effect on the camera as they do on LED bulbs. In the long term it might damage the camera. Yes, use a relay. You only need an on/off relay or use the 'no' connections if it's a changeover relay. Wire the relay coil to the light and earth. Take a feed from the rear fusebox (left side of boot) and connect to one side of the coil (com if changeover) and the other side of coil to camera. Camera negative direct to earth. Make sense??
@@CycloneCydthank you for quick reply. any advice what relay should I use or just any would do?
+T. Bezak any 12V relay will do. Nothing special required
something like this
amzn.to/2PKnOuo
@@CycloneCyd
Bought the 4 way relay from your link and got it working! Leds don't blink during normal ride, my Saab won't give any errors, reversing bulb and camera tŕň on when selected reverse. Thanks again.
@@TBezak you're welcome. Great to hear it worked out well for you.
Ok so I hooked up everything as you did and it works great , no flashing BUT I get an error message on my sid. I did use a 6 ohm 50w resistor. I used this setup on h7 led high beams. Any ideas boss?
Sounds like you've connected the resistor incorrectly. Double and triple check your wiring against the wiring diagram.
Cyclone Cyd still no go... it's so frustrating!
You watch. When you find it, it'll be summat real simple and you'll kick yourself. It's always the way.
Leave it for a few days and then come back at it with fresh eyes.
Cyclone Cyd i've honestly followed every single step but still. I even checked the resistor . I tried using two resistors even. But still , error message in sid
Philroy littlekip I used resistors but I've scrapped this project because I suspect it dosent work for high beams (h7). Probably because of higher currents?
Hello mate thank you for the video - quick question I have the resistor (an actual 50w 6ohm resistor) do I still need the relay? Thank you 😁
Hi Shane, yes you need the relay. the resistor fools the system so you get no error message, the relay separates the LED so it does not flash with the check pulses.
Is this possible to this on your high beams? Iv tried but it still flashes. I used a relay and a resistor As Well.
Certainly should work fine. Check you've got the no and nc the correct way round.
Cyclone Cyd will do. Thanks for an awesome video .
Theres a store that sells antiflicker sollution plug n play wiring for all cars except..... yes you guessed it... Saab.....
Cyclone Cyd I used scotch blocks instead of splitting the wires. Could this be the problem? The h7 led lights came with a harness with a built in resistor so I spliced in to those wires with scotch blocks to attach the relay.
Yep - I know! If I didn't already have a full time job I'd 'productionise' this myself.
Hey what if I wanna replace my interior lights with led bulbs? Is it as easy as just switching them out or do I have to do anything special? Will they flicker?
Interior lights are not on the continuous monitor circuit, so just swap the bulbs out for LED conversion bulbs.
Hi I have realys very similar to the ones used altho the diagram is different and 85 and 86 are reversed can these be used or do they need to be exact??
Hi Marc, Thanks for watching, welcome aboard. All that matters is they are changeover relays and you can identify the NO and NC (normally open and normally closed, resp.) contacts. I don't know whether the pin layout or numbering are 'standard' or not, but they don't matter as long as you can meet the requirements of sentence 1.
Do they have to be 5 pin type??
I have 2 here but have no idea if there usable or not
@@marchood99 5 pin yes.
Have shared your vid with a few others who tried n failed as I did b4 finding your vid. But, I also have a Saab 9-3 Aero Cabrio on a 55 plate. If doing as you have for the reverse lights, provided the resistors are in line for each bulb separately, can we connect in BOTH reversing bulbs to the same Relay without any hassle? After all, its only a relay and should be able to handle a pair of lights!!
Good thinking Batman! Hi Mark, yes I think you could. You'll need a resistor at both positions (because the system detects the bulbs sequentially), but you could use one relay and just connect the two bulb positives together across the boot. You could do the same on the front parking lights and main beam assists too. Thanks for sharing, glad people are getting value from it. Let us know how you get on.
@@CycloneCyd Cheers. Just a quickie, for those who don't know the relay terminology, might be good idea to simply list the numbers on relay and which connects to what....
85 - Positive feed from car
86 - Negative feed
87 - Positive feed to LED
87a - Positive from Inline bulb
30 - Split from Car feed in 85.
Errr.... Think thats correct ??? Pls confirm lol
Cheers Mark, i was just about to ask the same question!
Great video, thanks! Probably going to give this a try.
Saab Guy thanks. It really does work. use the comments if you need any help.
Hey ... your wiring diagram is a bit confusing can you tell me which wire from relay goes where e.g. relay 85 = earth ?
Now you've got me confused! The diagram has the pin numbers plus descriptions. Can you be more specific about what you're having trouble with?
Why not try printing it out or screen shotting it so you can study it?
85= Earth on bulb holder connector which goes through the resistor
30= Bulb positive and goes to 86
87a= Positive from resistor
87= Bulb Positive
I am trying to do this on an estate
Thanks
I have fitted a reverse camera in my car and connected it from the reverse bulb wire. At the same time i have canbus led installed on the reverse light instead of bulbs. Before the reverse camera installation i had no canbus error. But after the reverse camera installation it is giving error ''Reverse light right side failure'' Can u please help what can i do ?
Hi Amy, thanks for watching and interacting.
Both the camera and 'canbus' LED need to treated to the method I show. you can connect them both on the output side of the relay.
The resistance of the camera is disturbing the bulb check system. If the camera has an LED of it's own you may see it flashing. Also the check pulses every few seconds may have an undesirable effect on the life of the camera electronics. using a relay as shown will mean both LED and camera are disconnected from the car when not in use.
Thanks a lot. I will give it a try and come back to tell if it works.. Have a nice day..
Hello again. Just one more question and i will start the procedure. How many amps relay should i put in for the reverse light led bulb and reverse camera ? And which resistor as well?
@@amydarocker6531 IIRC the resistor should be 5.6ohm - the value is in the video somewhere. The LED only pulls a handfull of mA, even the smallest relays will handle that okay. You must get one with a 12v coil though! I'm sure there's a link to an example relay in the description.
Does the led drain battery when the leds flicker? I got them in my low beam and i dont want to wake up to a dead battery
No. Once the car is locked the ECUs go to 'sleep' and after about 1 minute you'll find they are no longer flashing.
@@CycloneCyd Is this the same for taillights?
@@shawnlee3397 yes
So I tried this method to get H7 low beam bulbs to work on a Vectra C. The flashing-when-off is gone, but when the ignition is on and the lights are off, I get a dead bulb-error. I tried putting it together so it only uses the two connections from the headlight, meaning that all ground connections go to the former bulb connector. And since the low beams did flicker slightly when the engine was running, I had to also connect the "canbus decoder" box that came with the lamps. I'm not really sure what's inside those, so I don't know if that's to blame for the error message, but since I put the relay first, then the box, then the LED bulb, I'm thinking it shouldn't. I've also tried wiring two of the 6 Ohm resistors in parallel rather than just one, but that still didn't help...
Any ideas?
What value resistor did you use?
6 Ohm
and 2x 6ohm in parallel is 3ohm. Have you double checked the wiring, especially that you've got the no and nc of the relay correct?
I must have re-done the wiring at least 3 times, I'm pretty sure I got it right. Resistor was always at 87a, and unless Bosch does NO and NC differently than everybody else, it should have worked. Anyway I managed to somehow blow one of the lamps up, and in my frustration and anger I chucked the whole thing in the garbage, so that's the end of that...
I feel your pain! Sorry to hear that.
Just fitted hid into my 9-3 front projectors and tried Your method, result ...fail . All was looking fine but shortly after ignition on i got bulb failure message, when car start checking wiring circuit i heard clicks... that was relay clicking when getting signal from canbus so simply relay is energizing and switching between hid and 50w resistor resulting in dash error.
Im just about to order Time Delay Relay SPDT 10 second ON (from china as is cheap) so that should eliminate this problem as You have power relay constantly for 10s to energize and switch over from resistor to hid or led. Soon as i receive this relays and test i will update result.
+Paweł Jeka yes please do. Something of a brain teaser this.
@@CycloneCyd Will do, just ordered those time delayed relays so now is just the matter of delivery time from China, once i get them i will update with result👍
Just a wee update, i got my Time Delay Relay 3-5s delay and its working!!! So from now when i turn front lights on after 3 seconds relay energize and switch my aftermarket hid without throwing error. But got another issue , cant use those 55w resistors because they are giving error(i guess short circuit) so instead i hooked up orange indigator bulbs they have around 0.6ohm of resistance and passing canbus checks fine. Those 55w resistors have arround 6.0 ohms(cant remember exactly) and probably its too high resistance for canbus check when lights are off. Do any one know 12v ceramic resistor with arround 0.5ohm resistance who will resist full 12v load for arround 3-4 sec without firing up? Other vise standard bulb is a solution.
Perfect
Anyone calculated the resistor needed for the 55W fog lights? Thanks in advance
+Theodoros Stokkos thanks for watching and interacting. 2.6 ohms my friend
@@CycloneCyd thanks for your reply. Is it true that these resistors produce a lot of heat? Of course reverse lights are on for a small period of time, so heat wont be an issue, but fogs can be on for a lot of time. If those resistors produce heat then it will be dangerous if they are close to other wires and/or insulation etc. What do you thing?
+Theodoros Stokkos Yes, the resistors do get hot. As you say reverse lights won't because they're hardly used but other lights will. Best therefore to mount the resistors on metalwork and with some air space around them, especially at the 55W positions (55W of heat!!). I'd say make sure there's an inch of separation from wiring or soft plastic parts.
Here's one for you to look at pls.
60 " Triple led rear light bar by Ambother. Similar to Opt 7
We cut the the plug off as vw caddy does not have a hitch plug.
It is a canbus vehicle
Wiring for led bar
Brown earth
White running lights
Yellow and green connect to left indicator and right indicator.
Seperate Red for reverse.
The vehicles brake light connects to both yellow and green ie The same connector as the indicators.
Ing off..... We have red Running light .
Sequential amber turn and hazard.
Reverse
Brake lights.
Turn ignition on....reverse is ok
Then things go wrong.
Indicators flash only 4"" instead of sequential for 30 "
Etc.
Running light flickers instead of solid.
Any ideas how to correct this issue?
This definitely beats the $500 program by maptun
Hi, is there a way to solve the H7 Led headlight flashing even with a 50w resistor ? I had this problem, need some help? Thanks
Chung Chee Hwee yes follow the method in the video. The wiring will be exactly the same just a different bulb.
Cyclone Cyd hi , if I use a golden Colour metal 50w resistor to replace the bulb.. can be done
Chung Chee Hwee you need a relay AND resistor to stop the flashing. I just used a bulb instead of a resistor so cost me nothing.
Hi ... I will try... thanks and cheers mate
Chung Chee Hwee watch the video through a few times to make sure you understand what's going on. Then why not practice on a reverse light before moving on to the main beam? If you find yourself getting muddled just take a break.
It's a lot to take in and does cause a lot of confusion. It took me a while to work this out!
You'll get it. Good luck.
And how does this work with number plate leds?
The number plate lamps are on the canbus bulb check circuit so they need the same treatment. Exactly the same.
Do let us know how you get on.
I had it done on the number plate lights and it did worked. Thank you for that.
Your video was recommended on Audi owners forum and I used this on A6 Avant.
Did exactly the same with both reversed bulbs and have problems.
During the day, when light sensor switch off driving lights, I get instant error on DIS, when reverse gear selected. First for one bulb and than the other, as they are separate on two separate circuits. Computer still try to see them and I can hear relay going off and on but eventually lights go off.
During the night or low light, it does work and can hear relay going on. If I stay too long on the rear gear (20-25 seconds), relays will go off, DIS will throw error and situation with relay on/off happens again. It will go off completely after 3 tries.
After both situations, if I select reverse gear again, no light will come on.
If I drive around a bit, it will switch the light on but the error on the dash will remain.
When I switch off the ignition and repete above in day or night, same thing happens.
I've installed load resistors and all is good but canbus bulb check flashes the leds every 30 second in a sequence around the car.
It does look a bit like a driving disco, as got leds nearly everywhere.
Number plates are fine, with that method but have both front and rear indicators led, reverse leds and front fogs led.
Thinking of installing capacitors but worry about the power accumulated to go off somewhere where it shouldn't and when it shouldn't.
Anyone can suggest solution or recommend other method of solving canbus led bulb flash?
Can you use a canbus decoder?
Hi j, thanks for watching. All the people on the various groups I'm in who've bought these 'decoders' have had little or no success.
Cyclone Cyd are you on the Facebook forum? Could you give me a wiring diagram I wanted to build a relay for all my rear taillights
@@jbarah05 you need one relay per bulb. The wiring diagram is in the video
So would this method work for the 501 side lights?
Andrew H
Oh yes, the method for the parking lights will be exactly the same. It works for all bulb positions except the tail and brake lights (they use PWM method to dim down to 5W equivalent on 21W bulbs). Works for indicators too.
Just add in to do your wiring a bit neater than shown. This wiring was being hidden behind the boot trim so I concentrated on the method more than neatness.
And check out ebay item 331760123683 for suitable resistors at a pound apiece.
top job mate. would the bulb still work as a decent resistor like you've done? if thats the case i got some of these i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Nq0AAOSwgDRZcGtV/s-l1600.jpg and 501 bulb holders to go with it :)
Should be good. Should make a nice neat job too. Shame you can't attach photos here, it'd be nice to see the finished article.
Once i get around to wiring it all up and fitting them i shall post a image or two :) can't wait to see my led side lights in action haha!
Well, firstly get my EGR blanked and mapped out first. then work on the lights.. oo and not forgetting a bumper repair as a bloody huge rabbit ran out in road last night and slammed right into the front.. nice!
Hello,
I have a Vectra C 2008 year. I take a led to front side light (W5W aka parking light) but if the ignition is off, the leds are flashing. If i buy only a resistor is enought (39 ohm 10W) , or I need a relay and resistor too, for the solution?
You need the relay and resistor as shown
@@CycloneCyd many thanks for the quick answer, and thanks for your help!
I want to do LED tail lights and rear signals... But I feel like I'd burn my car to the ground before I got it to work 🤣 I've been running the LED tails for awhile now but I'm tired of the flashing 😫
Problem is I’m trying to reply what you’re doing on your car in my car and the terms and connections your making, I can’t relate them in the diagram you show at the end of the video. I know it’s fancy to talk electrician language with “earth” and “feed” but trust me, you make a damn drawing with a pencil showing HOW and WHAT TO WHAT connects would be much much much simpler and accessible to all of us. Your video is like you’re talking to yourself and not for an audience. Yes, I’m mad, but with a reason....DAMN!!!!!.....
A wise man once said: "you cannot please ALL of the people All of the time". Plenty of others have followed the directions successfully.
What a pain.