Winchester 70 Super Sport CRF Rebuild - Part 2 - Fitting and Chambering a new BRUX barrel & more!
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- Have you ever seen a Winchester 70 being rebarreled? Behold! Here is a newer Model 70 Controlled Round Feed with the finer 28 TPI thread expertly fitted and chambered for a new Brux barrel in 6.5 PRC! Master Riflesmith Geoff Montgomery of Accurate Rifles and Restorations goes through the entire extensive process of fitting and chambering a brand new Brux barrel rivalling the very best bolt actions available today! Also covers muzzle work with 1/2-28 threads with a custom made seamless thread protector.
Later on in this series, he will prove the results at ONE THOUSAND 1,000 yards with HALF MOA accuracy!
Music by: Big Money and the Spare Change
Visit our website for contact information if you are interested in this service or any other high end gunsmithing work: www.accurateriflesandrestorations.com
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DO NOT TRY THIS YOURSELF! This video exists to showcase our services and attention to detail, and nothing more.
NO AI WAS USED IN THE PRODUCTION OF THIS VIDEO 😜 Quality is terrible, but at least you know a human made it! 🫂
![GEEK TIMË [OFFICIAL AUDIO]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ry-6RvkH880/mqdefault.jpg)
Outstanding work.
Love Brux. Picking up two more August 1, both 7mm, one 9.5 T, the other 9 T. Later this year, 2 more in 270, one 9 T, the other 8.5 T.
Just a tip. Flip your threading tool over. Run in reverse and thread away from the head stock. It will relieve a ton of stress and you can choose exactly where you want the thread next to the shoulder. Invest in some thread files they help a ton with fine tuning.
that's a good tip! I do do this when internal threading actions. Will give it a try someday. Thanks for watching and for the comment, mate!
Geoff, follow up on a question I had on part 1 of the series: How, after adding the sleeve to the bolt, did you eliminate the bolt handle resistance on the down stroke to allow for setting shoulder bump on fired cases when resizing brass? In part one there was definitive resistance due to the addition of the sleeve. Your response to me was it would be resolved in the barreling and chambering in part 2. I must of missed something because the bolt dropped with zero resistance in this video. Question 2: Using the "scotch tape" method no-go, what do you think your final headspace is allowing for "crush" and what fpt are you using to tighten action to barrel? Assuming, from barrel contour, this looks to be a hunting profile barrel. If "crush" is .001" to .0015", head space would be worrisome for any type of debris ending up in the chamber shoulder area and rendering the rifle inoperable. What's you opinion on this?
Hey John! I really appreciate you watching the videos and engaging the channel as you have. The bolt did drop freely around the 58 minute mark in part 1. After lapping the lugs and all the playing around with it, it definitely had no resistance. I hope that makes sense... 2: Yes, I chamber headspace on the "tight" side and have never heard back from a customer complaining about inoperable rifles due to debris. I work with a lot of hunters and out here the dust blows a lot! Never had an issue... I suppose it's possible, but so far so good! It's a discussion we have before the work begins and if the customer wants a "looser" headspace (within safe limitations of course), we can do that too! Thanks again and take care!
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why didn't you show us the run-out at the end of the range rod that's on the chamber end?
from my experience as a machinist and building rifles, with the way you are holding the barrel, you are not aligning anything. you are just flexing the barrel. once you loosen up the jaws and that fixture on the outboard side of your headstock, everything is gonna go back to its original position and be misaligned.
check out nathan dagley at straight shot gunsmithing.
Watch part 3. Proving it at 1000 yards should clear up any doubt. 6-ish inch group at 1K yards with genuine reactions from the actual customer isn't too shabby...
Even though not every second of the operation was shown, please do not assume things were not done properly. There are many ways to "skin a cat" so to speak...A good lathe with a dual 4-jaw chuck can and will align a cylinder with a hole in the middle to within a couple tenths, as proven many times in our video library.
Geoff has trained and apprenticed with the best in the business (Gordy Gritters, Greg Tannel, etc.), a CST graduate, and a former CST instructor, has over a decade of experience, has done hundreds of rifle builds, and knows his craft inside and out. Each job is unique and the customer chooses which path to take in the overall process.
SSG seems to have a very good contraption for holding and aligning barrels, but it's not the end all way. Our rifles shoot 3/8 MOA or better consistently.
Mister Dagley does not respond to questions that we have asked (we wanted to purchase his system, but unfortunately he seems to ignore all emails, phone calls, etc.), so we use what we have.
We do appreciate you watching the videos and engaging the channel.
you've only shown that the barrel was dialed in while the barrel was flexed, and like I said, when the jaws are loosened, it goes back to its original shape. Nathan dagleys TBAS is the only way to prevent this. if you truly understood alignment you would know this.
gordy gritters, greg tannel, and the like have only made do with what they had. That doesnt mean the explanation above doesn't happen. If anything, the results on target shows that gunsmiths don't have as big of an effect on accuracy as they think they do.
with two indicators, some trigonometry, and an understanding of alignment, what is going on with these old school methods can be shown.
@@reloadingfunyou are exactly correct. I like the giggle method for tight threads or loose threads. I build rifles too and Bux barrels are good don't get me wrong but there are another half dozen just as good and less expensive. But sometimes confidence in equipment is important too
I’d throw those range rods in the trash. I did 10 plus years ago and direct read off the groves.
I've heard that from just one other builder who said he could not get repeatability from them. I believe it was Gordy who told me that. He had returned to using the "gauge" rod for preliminary indication and then direct to the bore except for the really long cartridges, then he uses the "gauge" rod all the way. I've only used the "range" rod on one occasion and did my own testing by placing it in the bore, indicating the barrel co-axially, then removing it and rotating it 90 degree and indicating again. Doing that four times I got a total of .0002" variance. That could be from the piloted bushing play between the reamer bushing pin/shaft and the internal diameter of the bushing. What has been your experience to speak so negatively regarding the range rods?
@@johnseptien3138 I could never get them to repeat after removing them and putting them back in the bore. Also reaching up where the throat will be with a indicator the barrels just where not dialed in that true. I’ve used the gordy rod as there called for ruff dialing and they can work pretty good. I still prefer to dial off the grooves and I also don’t use a pilot on my reamer. The reamer will follow the true hole I’ve bored that will be concentric with the throat.
@@k4391 so are you using a rigid reamer holder set up? Or a floating reamer holder.
I’m using what’s referred to as a reamer pusher in the tail stock. If you look for a mike Bryant or Dave Tooley pusher you’ll see how simple they are.