2005 Chrysler 300c 5.7 New paint Dark Blue, 5% Tint all the way around. Pacesetter long tube headers, Full exhaust no mufflers or cats, CAI, Billet Oil Catch Can. I3 Tuner . My Hemi gets all the love ;)
I think its worth a mention that I own a 2006 Chrysler 300 SRT8 that developed a stalling issue around 110k miles. It would stall in reverse and at slow speeds below 10mph or at idle in park. At first I thought it was possibly a PCM issue because the gauge cluster would light up like a Christmas tree when it would stall. Check engine light would be on for about a day or two after the problem subsided but the stalling issue always came back once the car was almost out of gas or after I put any amount of fuel into the tank. It ended up being a gas tank issue. Apparently there is a plastic valve that corrodes over time in the tank and restricts fuel flow at low rpms which was causing the stalling. Luckily Dodge has issued a recall for the fuel tank on several years of 300's, Chargers, Challengers and a few other models that had the same issue. I ended up paying nothing out of pocket but it was a headache being stranded at the gate to a military base so for anyone that drives a 300, Challenger or Charger from 05 to 07 its worth looking into.
Mines is a 2005 Limited 3.5L it has 255,000 miles, runs great ,I also do my own mechanical work and I though I was the only guy that keeps a log of all the work done.
I have a 2006 300 limited 3.5L purchased in April of 2016 with only 42k miles !!! I try to change oil every 3k-6k with Mobile 1 full synthetic gold cap , I put a K&N intake at 55k miles , and new brake pads just 5 days ago at 71,800 miles , but I did have an issue with the shifter getting stuck around the time I purchased the vehicle , it was a plastic piece inside the shifter column that had got unlatched i believe , I had a friend help me figure out the issue and I simply had to press a small button manually every time I switched gear from Park , and then god solved the issue and one day it fixed itself , not sure how lol , and another issue was my rear differential broke of the rear subframe !! It was literally hanging off and on top of my exhaust !! I thought it was my transmission until I had a buddy take a look and realized the issue and fixed it for me for free !! Took him literally 20 minutes to fix , he used a small jack to lift the differential added a thick piece of a metal plate right on top of the rear subframe and used a long bolt with a nut and tighten it up real good and 10k miles later still on there , he recommended I get it soldered? Maybe I will eventually in the future , and as described in the video I have dealt with similar issues as well , also beware of the draft shafts on these vehicles tend to take a beating on the couplings , which i believe is what the rear rubber piece which connects betwen the shaft and differential , make sure youre not lazy and you take a look at where sounds , smells and leaks are coming from , by you pin pointing out these issues yourself you can save a lot of money by purchasing the parts online and knowing what's the actual issue and not having a mechanic haggle you for your money !
I'm trying to get a used 2018-2022 AWD V6 300c when used car prices calm down. This truly is one of that last cars you can buy that's built simple enough for even the most inexperienced owners to do most work on the car themselves. Most new cars/trucks now (especially Fords) are a tightly packed rats nest under the hood, its hard for even ford trained technicians to keep track of where everything starts and ends. Sometimes you need to drop the engines out of then to do simple work, and most of these new cars with Trubo's and all on them are only really built to make it to 100k miles then after that the manufacturer could care less if the engine turns into a unstable bomb.
Right! That way you know what has warranties from where and when, and if you were to sell the car, you had some form of proof as well as something that can help the next owner's maintenances!
I bought my 2008 300C Hemi in 2018 it had 48,000 I now in 2020 have 58,000 miles on it. I’ve had 2 issues one was the drivers side door handle broke it would still open it was the inner front plastic piece $25 on Amazon. And took the car in for a blend door repair for $175 on the heating and cooling. A lot of dash had to come apart so I chose to let some other trained person do it. So far that has been it. The car is very clean and I love driving it. I used to own a 2004 Cadillac CTS. I will only own large comfortable cars, I hate driving SUV’s. Wife had a Cadillac SUV the SRX nice ride but small inside.
Amazing video,Narrator simplified everything.Best produced and directed video for those of US,that are intimidated by technology,THIS Genius is a veritable instructional Professor,He is the best at saving US future grief and Money!
You’re at 150k and you didn’t touch the other suspension parts? You lucky lucky man! 😂 I needed all new control arms and an inner tie rod for the front end at around 160k so I would definitely take a look at that on your car. These cars have known suspension issues!
Up to 150k I was doing alright. I have to make a new one of these videos soon as I am almost at 200,000 (Presently at 199,480). Just recently I had to do upper and lower control arms as well as a tie rod end. (But I'd call that "normal" for a car with this mileage especially with a lot of NYC driving).
147 subscribers? You're almost there! Anyway, it's nice to see people keeping logs, especially when you see so many empty CarFax pages. I see that and just get worried; what happened this car that I don't know about? But being able to see a physical log is really cool because you know exactly what happened when.
informative video. I'm in two minds to either purchase a 2007 300c or 5 series. it's the maintenance and parts that's making me think twice about this car.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! Googled some specs really quick just out of curiosity. The '07 300c seems to have more horsies than an '07 5 series. From my experiences, newer German cars tend to get maintenance-heavy as they get older. My 300 has had maintenance done, it's no angel - but most of it is wear and tear related things such as brake pads, oil, transmission fluid, etc. Currently I passed 162k miles with no issues yet. The plus side is that most of this stuff is relatively plug-and-play, too; you usually won't need two different wrenches and hex keys to get at the alternator, for example. Parts are relatively common and somewhat cheap (the '05-'10 300s, Chargers, and Magnums are mechanically identical if I'm not mistaken), and they produced anywhere between 100k-300k per car per model year if I'm not mistaken. Then again, maybe I just got lucky with my 300. On the other hand, the 5 series is a more sporty car (whereas the 300 leans more towards the muscle side, I thiiiink). It will do some things better (again, I _think_.. I havn't ever had a 5 series), given in the Chrysler for example you can't fully turn off the traction control. More things to consider! Sorry for the long comment, and again, thank you for watching!
You can't decide between a reliable car and a German junk? Tough one. Had 525TDi, WORST car by far, EVER. Used 9 grand, repairs in 6 years the same. ALWAYS something wrong. A L W A Y S
Learned a lot thank you. Just got a mint condition 2005 300c. I will definitely look into having the transmission fluids changed and the brakes. Think my rotor is worn as well. Getting that same shaking. BTW what you really wanted to say to those who didn't like is "F U" lol. and damn well you should. I would buy you a beer. cheers from L.A.
Every 30,000 miles the transmission should be serviced. On any car. I changed my transmission fluid in my Chrysler Sebring with the same transmission at 50,000 miles. The fluid was gross. Now I just use a transfer pump every 5,000 miles and I'll pump a quart out, dump a fresh quart into it. Since the transmission drain is a bit*h in these cars.
hello there, I am just purchasing a used 2006 C model with the V8 5.7L hemi engine. I am planning to replace my brakes shortly, along with the shift latch and tie rods. has your car ever stalled after filling her up? I've read reports on that being an issue but Chrysler will replace my fuel gas tank, free of charge. also, what else should I look for on this vehicle, maintenance wise? it's at 90k miles. kind regards, Sean
Hello, and thank you so much for watching! I've got a 3.5L V6, so my engine is different, but I'll do my best to try and answer your question! Great call on the shift latch! The original one is plastic; mine broke, and I'm sure every 300's shift latch will at some point, too. My car has never stalled. Either it never had the problem, or it was fixed before I owned the car. But it's good if Chrysler will replace defective parts free of charge. When you replace the brakes, don't forget to clean and regrease the caliper guide pins; they're moreso prone to seizing up if neglected than if compared to, say, a GMC. As for what to expect, maintenance wise.. There is currently a passenger side airbag recall, and dealers won't have parts until around mid-march. It also might be worth to check if your vehicle has any unaddressed recalls; mine had to have the driver's airbag replaced. (dealerships to recalls free of charge, but it's important you take time to check this/have this done). At 100k-150k miles, you can expect to need to change the transmission fluid (drain-and-fill, no flush), along with a wipe-down of the pan and a new gasket (~$170). You can also expect to need to flush and fill the coolant (~$120). Of course, change your oil every 3,000-5,000 miles. Things that broke in my car/I have had to change: The radio head unit ($60 off of car-part.com), the shift interlock latch (~$20 off of advance auto parts), tie rods, brake pads, rotors, PCV Valve (preventative maintenance; it didn't break), Transmission fluid, coolant, .. that's all, just off the top of my head, I think. Things I want to fix: two door seals are slightly warped; rarely (but still does) let water in when the car's sitting overnight in a rain storm. Driver's seat's leather is really worn and torn; I want to get that fixed up (it's ~$380 for that leather work). My rear differential has an ever so slight leak on the driver's side halfaxle seal - I have to peek into it once a year to make sure fluid level is OK (and it usually is), but it's a ~$300 job if I want peace of mind. My EGR valve sprung a vacuum leak where it connects to the air intake manifold, and I want to do a better job of fixing it rather than caulking it up with gasket maker (~$8 for a gasket and a seal). The automatic closing of the sunroof doesn't put the sunroof flush with the roof; I have to adjust it manually with the buttons to close it flush (not a problem, just an inconvenience) so I have to get this recalibrated or something at some point. And that's all I can think of right now. I hope this helps! My car is currently at 156k miles, and despite all of this I just mentioned, I think it's a great car and in great health. Maintenance is also pretty easy and straightforward. If you do get the car, I recommend you have three things. The driver's manual (should come with the car, or you can get a free pdf online), a Haynes manual (I got mine used for $6 on amazon.com), and a pdf of the LX service manual (should be able to find it for free online). So if something does go bad or if you want to replace something but don't know how, and the driver's manual wont help, then the haynes manual might. If that doesn't help, then the service manual should, since that's what dealerships go off of.
The Roads Here Suck, all of that info was very helpful, thank you very much. I will keep this video in my save tabs and make sure to do the same as you did. I am a new subscriber to your channel, keep up the great work! also, does this car take 87 or 89 octane gas? kind regards, Sean
Thank you so much! :) I hope you enjoy this channel very much. Though, be forewarned, I do I have the video editing skills of a three year old. As for gas - the owners manual states something along the lines of "the car will run on any gas, but we recommend 89 octane, and 93 is unnecessary". So you can probably run 87, 89, or 93 with peace of mind, but I'd recommend 89, simply because that's what the engineers of the car recommend.
Hello, So I got the car today. Before I left with the car they did a strut and shock replacement for the front end of the car, along with replacing the front brakes and rotors, free of charge. They told me within the month to drain and refill the transmission fluid since it looked a little dark, and to add seafoam to the gas tank to clean out the intake. Did you refill your transmission fluid yourself, or did you bring it to a mechanic? Regards, Sean
Hey! I took it to a mechanic because I didn't have a nice way of being clean with draining the transmission fluid and I figured for a one or two time thing it'll be ok to spend money on it that way. But if you wanted to do it yourself, (if I have this all correct), you drop the pan and catch the fluid (it will spill everywhere). You wipe down the pan/magnet and make it real clean. You then replace the gasket on that pan, and put the pan back on. Then, you add the same amount of transmission fluid you took out. In a day or two you check it again and see how the fluid level is doing; sometimes air pockets get caught in there so when they go away you may need to top up fluid. Not sure how it is on the V8, but the V6 does not have a transmission dipstick; it's sold separately and called something along the lines of "chrysler generic transmission fluid dipstick", and is inserted in a hole covered by a cap marked "dealer use only". But I'd say unless you have something that can pick the car up, something that can catch all of the transmission fluid (or a floor where you don't mind making a mess), and a chrysler generic dipstick, you can take it to the mech. I hope this helps! I'm glad to hear they replaced so much for you!
I had a 06 3.5 . I really loved the car till the suspension started driving me crazy. Had to changed breaks very very often, at least twice a year , and control arms etc every 2 . Also, it was burning engine oil like crazy , aft 2k 3k km i had to add cant remember how much, but if i waited till 5k km , the dipstick was dry .
I’m looking into getting this 2006 300 152K miles he was originally selling it for 3,800 but he’s moving and doesn’t have room to take it so he dropped the price to what I suggested which was 2,400! From what I see in the pictures the inside and car all around looks well taken care of. What do you suggest? Walk away?
Im about to pull the trigger on a 2008 Chrysler 300 limited it has 135,000 kilometers (I'm in canada)...it looks sweet....no rust...fully loaded...for $5000
Hello, great vid and car. I recently owned a '08 300C 5.7 with 79k. I would like to know which oil is best ( MDS on this 5.7 hemi). Should i go by the oil grade on the oil cap? Thanks 👍
It's a very great reliable car. Just make sure when you buy your car you do the maintenance right away, because you don't know how the previous owner took care of it in reality. I would replace the Spark plugs, Oil, Oil Filter, Air Filter, Differential fluid and Transmission fluid. Then every 3 months just do a oil change. My Chrysler 300 has 180k miles and she's running very strong. I bought her back in 2005.
I was hoping to hear how much $$ all the maintenance was and maybe how much approximately you figure that you've saved by doing a lot of the maintenance yourself. Cheers.
Unfortunately I did not keep any receipts for things like oil (but I do generally know how much it costs). So I will eyeball it here; this is just a rough estimate: Looking at just maintenance and repairing broken things, (no cosmetic or performance mods): Doing it myself with occasional help: $735 If I had only used mechanics and dealers: $1585 Numbers are approximate, cover maintenance from 121k-152k miles, and exclude wheel alignments since those are free since I bought the lifetime wheel alignment
@Lou It is a reliable car. Does it have some engineering flaws? Yes... For example, the shifter interlock is an evident fuck up that chrysler dun-goofed on big time. The tie rod ends have to be replaced too on the 300s around 100k. Otherwise this is a pretty decent car assuming you do regular oil changes (Chrysler advises every 10k miles, but this guy does em every 5k miles... which is pretty smart). Chrysler based it off the E-class, using a mercedes suspension, chassis and other components. On top of that, the C version has the HEMI engine... which is one of the best and most reliable V8 engines ever engineered. Am I saying the car is perfect? No... Is it reliable if you maintain it? Yes!
Hey, I plan on getting a Used Chrysler 300 lx with 56k miles used! What are some of the some problems you had as far as maintenance and how much it costs around this mileage?!? The Chrysler has 18 mpg 26 hw how much a month did you spend on gas? And finally the one I'm buying comes with rims, I think the dealer said they were 22inch do you have any idea how much tires would cost I want cheap ones and I'm in California btw??
Hey! I'll do my best to answer your questions. Maintenance problems: My vehicle almost has 155K on the odometer. it's a 3.5L v6. Most of the maintenance is regular wear and tear; I've had to replace tie rod ends, brake rotors, transmission fluid for preventative maintenance, I've replaced the PCV valve.. As far as problems other than regular wear and tear, two of my door seals are slightly warped, occasionally allowing for rain to seep in and dribble a little bit when the vehicle is parked. I have a slight vacuum leak by the EGR valve that I plan on replacing soon-ish; it's an o-ring/seal. I have had to replace the radio head unit once because the CD player jammed. I have had to disassemble the shifter assembly once because a plastic shift interlock latch broke, and I replaced it with a metal one for $20. (couldn't shift from park, original latch was plastic). The sunroof will auto-open and auto-close, but when it auto-closes I have to push some buttons to manually correct it to make it close flush with the roof. Other than that, no transmission problems, no engine problems, no mechanical disasters. It's a solid car that's easy to work on. The car does burn off some oil; I have to add a quart every 3,000 miles or so. I'm not sure if this is tolerances in the engine are off because of age and use, or if this is just by design since it's on par with the manual's recommended 3,000 mile oil changes. It could also be because I'm using synthetic when I should probably be using regular. Pricing: I got mine at 121k miles for $5,000. 56k miles is practically brand new-ish; I'm not sure, but I would expect the price to be about $9k (assuming this is also a 2005). A good way to price check for sure is Kelly Blue Book ( kbb.com ) Used car dealers of course will try to charge extra compared to people off the street. Gas mileage: This varies. I get anywhere between 12-17 city, and 20-25 highway. I'm not sure how much I spend per month these days, but the gas tank holds about 15-16 gallons of gas. 89 octane gas costs about $2.70. From empty to full, it costs me about $40 to fill up the gas tank. On a 200 mile highway trip, I burn less than half of the tank; the gas gauge reads halfway between the halfway line and 1/4 (from full) line. It's actually nice on gas, keeping in mind this car is a fat slab of metal. I've got the V6; V8 gets worse consumption (but is powerful). Another thing to note: Not sure what engine/year and all that you might be getting, but my manual says it's preferred to use 89 octane. You don't have to, but it's nice if you do, according to the manual. So keep that in mind. Tires: I'm not sure about rims and 22 inch tires (I keep mine stock). But tires in and of themselves aren't too bad. If you go to firestone I think generally it comes out to be $300-$500 for four tires, unless the tires are super special. I've got Pirelli P4's, and I think I saw somewhere that firestone would install them for $125 a pop. But I'm sure they have cheaper stuff available too. Anything else I can come up with: Don't buy one with the 2.6L engine. They're underpowered and wear themselves out fast. 3.5L V6 gets good fuel economy, and the V8 packs a nice punch - I'd say get one of those. If your dealer provides a car fax, check it out. 56k miles is really nice but in your position I'd want to know the story of why that car found itself there. But so far, I'm at 155k miles, and I'm happy to report it seems to be doing much better than most cars as far as things like transmissions and engines go. I anticipate this car will live to about 250k before something severe happens. And I'm quite happy with the car, not bored of it yet. So I think it's a real good car. :) I hope this answers your questions!
Oh! And I recommend keeping the owner's manual, buying a Hayne's repair manual (I got mine for $6 off of Amazon), and downloading a .pdf of the LX service manual. With these three you'll be invincible as far as regular maintenance goes.
Hi there, It's best to check what it says in your manual. The '05 300 uses 10w30 unless it's below 0C, then 5w30 is recommended. '10 should be similar, but I highly encourage double checking.
In theory there's a computer that controls air/gas to try to keep a steady/same horsepower. A CAI (without larger intake manifold, exhaust manifold, ecu tune) won't give much if any HP gains. That said, although amount of power remains the same, I do feel like I did get an extra mpg or two. I don't think there's anything scientific or proven per say, but I imagine if less gas is used it might be easier on the engine a bit. At least, it's slightly more economic. So it wouldn't help in any massive way - but it wont do harm, at least, and I personally found it to be slightly economically beneficial.
@@lrakwons9799 dude its been a ride. lets where to start. Overheating issues so new radiator, new compartment where the coolant is stored, new spark plugs, leaky hose which made the car smell like gasoline, new tires, high rpm's. new battery, new alternator, and other little things here and there like oil change. not going to lie i should have got a 3.6 instead but you live and learn. right now it has the check engine light on but im pretty sure its an oil change. its cool cause i have my other car its toyota camry so im reliant on that.
I really enjoyed video. I love the Chrysler 300. Looking at a used one, a 2005, mileage 172for $1,999, but it had 5 owners. A lot of unknowns, ...should I walk away from this?
I'm very glad to hear you enjoyed the video! I would walk away from this. Fair price for a 300 with 172,000 miles is about $4,000 - 7,000. If the price is that low, something is probably wrong with it. Perhaps it has the 2.7L engine? Stay away from the 2.7L engines. 5 owners is also highly suspicious. For a 2005 I would say it would be fair for it to have 2-3 owners - 5 is a little bit concerning. Do you get a carfax before buying the car? I very highly recommend doing that. Also, it's a good idea to bring an OBDII scanner when checking out these cars. Long story short, I would personally stay away from that car. If it makes you feel like it's suspicious, it probably is. Cheers!
I just picked up a 06 71k 1-2 owner (was originally sold by same dealer I bought it from) for 8.5k. Of course it has the hemi. In my shopping for one I would've never considered the car your describing. 2.7's are junk, 3.5's aren't much better, and even the 5.7's have some issues, like lifters going flat and junking the motor, and exhaust bolts breaking causing exhaust leaks.
Where about a in pa are you? I’m in Erie, I have a 07 srt8 charger and only problem is mpg cause I can’t keep my foot out of it 😂😂. I’m trying to talk my bud into getting a 300srt
@@ivorysteele They are built cheap, front fender always falling off. they are low to the ground, Had issues the day I bought it. It was one years old and had to replace Rotors, then had to have spring replaced inside gear selector. Had to take it in for various recalls, No more Chrysler's for me.
So why are you so broke that you don't just let them do an oil change when replacing the drain plug to the point where u spoke to the manager? Are you in school or just content with a poor paying career?
The tie rods were the only thing that was beyond normal maintainance and the little plastic part too I'd say ...I've had a couple new cars that I've had to change the rotors on in the first several months of ownership ...Mercury covered that under warranty but Chevy wouldn't even tho the car had less than 1,000 miles on it
Yeah, I agree with you! People tend to say the 300's have suspension issues that need sorting out eventually. And yes, the plastic interlock latch was a bit odd (that should be a recall in my opinion, since it potentially leaves people stranded). Thanks for watching, by the way!
Part two, part two! ruclips.net/video/ERr2-TkzLz0/видео.html
Hay bud u still got this? I found one 2010 v6 done only 24miles .should I get it or this car to much to maintain?
Mine has 316343 still running strong (2005 300 c touring)
I've heard from other people too that theirs go well into the 300,000s. This gives me lots of confidence! I hope yours keeps going and going!
That's awesome!
jose pagan mines at 430 000 and it's still running good
Whoooooa. Really? Wow!
Touring is the 3.5L right ?
2005 Chrysler 300c 5.7 New paint Dark Blue, 5% Tint all the way around. Pacesetter long tube headers, Full exhaust no mufflers or cats, CAI, Billet Oil Catch Can. I3 Tuner . My Hemi gets all the love ;)
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I think its worth a mention that I own a 2006 Chrysler 300 SRT8 that developed a stalling issue around 110k miles. It would stall in reverse and at slow speeds below 10mph or at idle in park. At first I thought it was possibly a PCM issue because the gauge cluster would light up like a Christmas tree when it would stall. Check engine light would be on for about a day or two after the problem subsided but the stalling issue always came back once the car was almost out of gas or after I put any amount of fuel into the tank. It ended up being a gas tank issue. Apparently there is a plastic valve that corrodes over time in the tank and restricts fuel flow at low rpms which was causing the stalling. Luckily Dodge has issued a recall for the fuel tank on several years of 300's, Chargers, Challengers and a few other models that had the same issue. I ended up paying nothing out of pocket but it was a headache being stranded at the gate to a military base so for anyone that drives a 300, Challenger or Charger from 05 to 07 its worth looking into.
Thank you for sharing!
Mines is a 2005 Limited 3.5L it has 255,000 miles, runs great ,I also do my own mechanical work and I though I was the only guy that keeps a log of all the work done.
Logs are the most awesome thing to have. I too used to think I was the only one!
255,000 miles! Here's to many more!
I have a 2006 300 limited 3.5L purchased in April of 2016 with only 42k miles !!! I try to change oil every 3k-6k with Mobile 1 full synthetic gold cap , I put a K&N intake at 55k miles , and new brake pads just 5 days ago at 71,800 miles , but I did have an issue with the shifter getting stuck around the time I purchased the vehicle , it was a plastic piece inside the shifter column that had got unlatched i believe , I had a friend help me figure out the issue and I simply had to press a small button manually every time I switched gear from Park , and then god solved the issue and one day it fixed itself , not sure how lol , and another issue was my rear differential broke of the rear subframe !! It was literally hanging off and on top of my exhaust !! I thought it was my transmission until I had a buddy take a look and realized the issue and fixed it for me for free !! Took him literally 20 minutes to fix , he used a small jack to lift the differential added a thick piece of a metal plate right on top of the rear subframe and used a long bolt with a nut and tighten it up real good and 10k miles later still on there , he recommended I get it soldered? Maybe I will eventually in the future , and as described in the video I have dealt with similar issues as well , also beware of the draft shafts on these vehicles tend to take a beating on the couplings , which i believe is what the rear rubber piece which connects betwen the shaft and differential , make sure youre not lazy and you take a look at where sounds , smells and leaks are coming from , by you pin pointing out these issues yourself you can save a lot of money by purchasing the parts online and knowing what's the actual issue and not having a mechanic haggle you for your money !
I'm trying to get a used 2018-2022 AWD V6 300c when used car prices calm down.
This truly is one of that last cars you can buy that's built simple enough for even the most inexperienced owners to do most work on the car themselves. Most new cars/trucks now (especially Fords) are a tightly packed rats nest under the hood, its hard for even ford trained technicians to keep track of where everything starts and ends. Sometimes you need to drop the engines out of then to do simple work, and most of these new cars with Trubo's and all on them are only really built to make it to 100k miles then after that the manufacturer could care less if the engine turns into a unstable bomb.
Good idea to keep a log of repairs. I try to tell a lot of my friends to do the same. I keep my receipts & printouts when I do maintenance
Right! That way you know what has warranties from where and when, and if you were to sell the car, you had some form of proof as well as something that can help the next owner's maintenances!
Or u can just upload everything to the carfax app
I bought my 2008 300C Hemi in 2018 it had 48,000 I now in 2020 have 58,000 miles on it. I’ve had 2 issues one was the drivers side door handle broke it would still open it was the inner front plastic piece $25 on Amazon. And took the car in for a blend door repair for $175 on the heating and cooling. A lot of dash had to come apart so I chose to let some other trained person do it. So far that has been it. The car is very clean and I love driving it. I used to own a 2004 Cadillac CTS. I will only own large comfortable cars, I hate driving SUV’s. Wife had a Cadillac SUV the SRX nice ride but small inside.
great information. Just purchased a 2005 Chrysler 300. Car is in amazing shape but nice to know what kind of maintenance to watch out for.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Awesome bro. I just got my 2007 300C E yesterday. I am loving it. Thanks for the tips. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Are you still loving the car?????
Thank you for the video, I have chrysler 300c srt and never had a problem, think there great cars
As a new chrysler 300 owner, i really appreciate you informing me about this stuff for free. subbed. 🙏💯
You're motivating me to get my 300 professionally detailed, your car is so clean lol
Amazing video,Narrator simplified everything.Best produced and directed video for those of US,that are intimidated by technology,THIS Genius is a veritable instructional Professor,He is the best at saving US future grief and Money!
You’re at 150k and you didn’t touch the other suspension parts? You lucky lucky man! 😂 I needed all new control arms and an inner tie rod for the front end at around 160k so I would definitely take a look at that on your car. These cars have known suspension issues!
Up to 150k I was doing alright. I have to make a new one of these videos soon as I am almost at 200,000 (Presently at 199,480). Just recently I had to do upper and lower control arms as well as a tie rod end. (But I'd call that "normal" for a car with this mileage especially with a lot of NYC driving).
@@TheRoadsHereSuck Did your car have the dreaded 'front end clunk' like most of them?
If you've enjoyed this video, please consider subscribing for more! :)
That's a good deal for a 300-C. The lowest asking price in our local C/L is $5,000. These are future collectible cars with decent aftermarket support.
Still have that Chrysler?
147 subscribers? You're almost there!
Anyway, it's nice to see people keeping logs, especially when you see so many empty CarFax pages. I see that and just get worried; what happened this car that I don't know about? But being able to see a physical log is really cool because you know exactly what happened when.
Thank you! Also, thank you so much for watching! This video came out a little longer than I thought it would be.
informative video. I'm in two minds to either purchase a 2007 300c or 5 series. it's the maintenance and parts that's making me think twice about this car.
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Googled some specs really quick just out of curiosity. The '07 300c seems to have more horsies than an '07 5 series. From my experiences, newer German cars tend to get maintenance-heavy as they get older. My 300 has had maintenance done, it's no angel - but most of it is wear and tear related things such as brake pads, oil, transmission fluid, etc. Currently I passed 162k miles with no issues yet. The plus side is that most of this stuff is relatively plug-and-play, too; you usually won't need two different wrenches and hex keys to get at the alternator, for example. Parts are relatively common and somewhat cheap (the '05-'10 300s, Chargers, and Magnums are mechanically identical if I'm not mistaken), and they produced anywhere between 100k-300k per car per model year if I'm not mistaken.
Then again, maybe I just got lucky with my 300.
On the other hand, the 5 series is a more sporty car (whereas the 300 leans more towards the muscle side, I thiiiink). It will do some things better (again, I _think_.. I havn't ever had a 5 series), given in the Chrysler for example you can't fully turn off the traction control.
More things to consider! Sorry for the long comment, and again, thank you for watching!
You can't decide between a reliable car and a German junk? Tough one. Had 525TDi, WORST car by far, EVER. Used 9 grand, repairs in 6 years the same. ALWAYS something wrong. A L W A Y S
Learned a lot thank you. Just got a mint condition 2005 300c. I will definitely look into having the transmission fluids changed and the brakes. Think my rotor is worn as well. Getting that same shaking. BTW what you really wanted to say to those who didn't like is "F U" lol. and damn well you should. I would buy you a beer. cheers from L.A.
Every 30,000 miles the transmission should be serviced. On any car. I changed my transmission fluid in my Chrysler Sebring with the same transmission at 50,000 miles. The fluid was gross. Now I just use a transfer pump every 5,000 miles and I'll pump a quart out, dump a fresh quart into it. Since the transmission drain is a bit*h in these cars.
hello there,
I am just purchasing a used 2006 C model with the V8 5.7L hemi engine. I am planning to replace my brakes shortly, along with the shift latch and tie rods. has your car ever stalled after filling her up? I've read reports on that being an issue but Chrysler will replace my fuel gas tank, free of charge. also, what else should I look for on this vehicle, maintenance wise? it's at 90k miles.
kind regards,
Sean
Hello, and thank you so much for watching! I've got a 3.5L V6, so my engine is different, but I'll do my best to try and answer your question!
Great call on the shift latch! The original one is plastic; mine broke, and I'm sure every 300's shift latch will at some point, too. My car has never stalled. Either it never had the problem, or it was fixed before I owned the car. But it's good if Chrysler will replace defective parts free of charge. When you replace the brakes, don't forget to clean and regrease the caliper guide pins; they're moreso prone to seizing up if neglected than if compared to, say, a GMC.
As for what to expect, maintenance wise.. There is currently a passenger side airbag recall, and dealers won't have parts until around mid-march. It also might be worth to check if your vehicle has any unaddressed recalls; mine had to have the driver's airbag replaced. (dealerships to recalls free of charge, but it's important you take time to check this/have this done). At 100k-150k miles, you can expect to need to change the transmission fluid (drain-and-fill, no flush), along with a wipe-down of the pan and a new gasket (~$170). You can also expect to need to flush and fill the coolant (~$120). Of course, change your oil every 3,000-5,000 miles.
Things that broke in my car/I have had to change: The radio head unit ($60 off of car-part.com), the shift interlock latch (~$20 off of advance auto parts), tie rods, brake pads, rotors, PCV Valve (preventative maintenance; it didn't break), Transmission fluid, coolant, .. that's all, just off the top of my head, I think.
Things I want to fix: two door seals are slightly warped; rarely (but still does) let water in when the car's sitting overnight in a rain storm. Driver's seat's leather is really worn and torn; I want to get that fixed up (it's ~$380 for that leather work). My rear differential has an ever so slight leak on the driver's side halfaxle seal - I have to peek into it once a year to make sure fluid level is OK (and it usually is), but it's a ~$300 job if I want peace of mind. My EGR valve sprung a vacuum leak where it connects to the air intake manifold, and I want to do a better job of fixing it rather than caulking it up with gasket maker (~$8 for a gasket and a seal). The automatic closing of the sunroof doesn't put the sunroof flush with the roof; I have to adjust it manually with the buttons to close it flush (not a problem, just an inconvenience) so I have to get this recalibrated or something at some point. And that's all I can think of right now. I hope this helps! My car is currently at 156k miles, and despite all of this I just mentioned, I think it's a great car and in great health. Maintenance is also pretty easy and straightforward.
If you do get the car, I recommend you have three things. The driver's manual (should come with the car, or you can get a free pdf online), a Haynes manual (I got mine used for $6 on amazon.com), and a pdf of the LX service manual (should be able to find it for free online). So if something does go bad or if you want to replace something but don't know how, and the driver's manual wont help, then the haynes manual might. If that doesn't help, then the service manual should, since that's what dealerships go off of.
The Roads Here Suck, all of that info was very helpful, thank you very much. I will keep this video in my save tabs and make sure to do the same as you did. I am a new subscriber to your channel, keep up the great work! also, does this car take 87 or 89 octane gas?
kind regards,
Sean
Thank you so much! :) I hope you enjoy this channel very much. Though, be forewarned, I do I have the video editing skills of a three year old.
As for gas - the owners manual states something along the lines of "the car will run on any gas, but we recommend 89 octane, and 93 is unnecessary". So you can probably run 87, 89, or 93 with peace of mind, but I'd recommend 89, simply because that's what the engineers of the car recommend.
Hello,
So I got the car today. Before I left with the car they did a strut and shock replacement for the front end of the car, along with replacing the front brakes and rotors, free of charge. They told me within the month to drain and refill the transmission fluid since it looked a little dark, and to add seafoam to the gas tank to clean out the intake. Did you refill your transmission fluid yourself, or did you bring it to a mechanic?
Regards,
Sean
Hey! I took it to a mechanic because I didn't have a nice way of being clean with draining the transmission fluid and I figured for a one or two time thing it'll be ok to spend money on it that way.
But if you wanted to do it yourself, (if I have this all correct), you drop the pan and catch the fluid (it will spill everywhere). You wipe down the pan/magnet and make it real clean. You then replace the gasket on that pan, and put the pan back on. Then, you add the same amount of transmission fluid you took out. In a day or two you check it again and see how the fluid level is doing; sometimes air pockets get caught in there so when they go away you may need to top up fluid.
Not sure how it is on the V8, but the V6 does not have a transmission dipstick; it's sold separately and called something along the lines of "chrysler generic transmission fluid dipstick", and is inserted in a hole covered by a cap marked "dealer use only".
But I'd say unless you have something that can pick the car up, something that can catch all of the transmission fluid (or a floor where you don't mind making a mess), and a chrysler generic dipstick, you can take it to the mech.
I hope this helps! I'm glad to hear they replaced so much for you!
i have log too but not because of new owner, because of me to be able to monitor when and what were done
I had a 06 3.5 . I really loved the car till the suspension started driving me crazy. Had to changed breaks very very often, at least twice a year , and control arms etc every 2 . Also, it was burning engine oil like crazy , aft 2k 3k km i had to add cant remember how much, but if i waited till 5k km , the dipstick was dry .
I’m looking into getting this 2006 300 152K miles he was originally selling it for 3,800 but he’s moving and doesn’t have room to take it so he dropped the price to what I suggested which was 2,400! From what I see in the pictures the inside and car all around looks well taken care of. What do you suggest? Walk away?
if it has the 2.7L I'd politely decline. If it has the 3.5L and up, it seems like a pretty sweet deal
Im about to pull the trigger on a 2008 Chrysler 300 limited it has 135,000 kilometers (I'm in canada)...it looks sweet....no rust...fully loaded...for $5000
If it's got a 3.5L or bigger, go for it!
@@TheRoadsHereSuck ya I bought it last month afterall. It's a 3.5 V6. I'm enjoying it so far
@@djc5897 how is it .u still have it?
Hello, great vid and car. I recently owned a '08 300C 5.7 with 79k. I would like to know which oil is best ( MDS on this 5.7 hemi). Should i go by the oil grade on the oil cap? Thanks 👍
5w20 Full Synthetic or you could damage the MDS.
@@nick2sick442 Great, will do. Thanks
5w 20 full synthetic. I use Mobile 1
Im looking at a touring 2010 76,000 for 6500
Rwd
Im 18 i want this car to last atleast 2-3 years what do you think about this
It's a very great reliable car. Just make sure when you buy your car you do the maintenance right away, because you don't know how the previous owner took care of it in reality. I would replace the Spark plugs, Oil, Oil Filter, Air Filter, Differential fluid and Transmission fluid. Then every 3 months just do a oil change. My Chrysler 300 has 180k miles and she's running very strong. I bought her back in 2005.
i got the 5.7 hemi 06 my only problem suspension issue at 70mph my steering wheel starts to vibrate any help will be appreciated thanks
alignment?
@@410sto6 nope done it problem still the same
@@dainfinitygauntlet go get it fully inspected they should tell you
@@410sto6 sure i will thank u
Crazy everything u did I did as well with the exact same problems
Thanks for watching!
How Does A 05’ 300 Touring With 95,000 Miles Sound?It Has The 3.5 V6 Engine,Are These Realiable?
I would say sounds good, and in my experiences, yes
Presently am at 185,000mi
I was hoping to hear how much $$ all the maintenance was and maybe how much approximately you figure that you've saved by doing a lot of the maintenance yourself.
Cheers.
Unfortunately I did not keep any receipts for things like oil (but I do generally know how much it costs). So I will eyeball it here; this is just a rough estimate:
Looking at just maintenance and repairing broken things, (no cosmetic or performance mods):
Doing it myself with occasional help: $735
If I had only used mechanics and dealers: $1585
Numbers are approximate, cover maintenance from 121k-152k miles, and exclude wheel alignments since those are free since I bought the lifetime wheel alignment
@Lou It is a reliable car. Does it have some engineering flaws? Yes... For example, the shifter interlock is an evident fuck up that chrysler dun-goofed on big time. The tie rod ends have to be replaced too on the 300s around 100k. Otherwise this is a pretty decent car assuming you do regular oil changes (Chrysler advises every 10k miles, but this guy does em every 5k miles... which is pretty smart).
Chrysler based it off the E-class, using a mercedes suspension, chassis and other components. On top of that, the C version has the HEMI engine... which is one of the best and most reliable V8 engines ever engineered.
Am I saying the car is perfect? No... Is it reliable if you maintain it? Yes!
From Australia here brother lol.. thanks for sharing. I have a 2005 Chrysler 300c, love it! can see it in my pic here.. Thanks again. Ciao
Many thanks for watching! :)
Hey, I plan on getting a Used Chrysler 300 lx with 56k miles used!
What are some of the some problems you had as far as maintenance and how much it costs around this mileage?!?
The Chrysler has 18 mpg 26 hw how much a month did you spend on gas?
And finally the one I'm buying comes with rims, I think the dealer said they were 22inch do you have any idea how much tires would cost I want cheap ones and I'm in California btw??
Hey! I'll do my best to answer your questions.
Maintenance problems: My vehicle almost has 155K on the odometer. it's a 3.5L v6. Most of the maintenance is regular wear and tear; I've had to replace tie rod ends, brake rotors, transmission fluid for preventative maintenance, I've replaced the PCV valve.. As far as problems other than regular wear and tear, two of my door seals are slightly warped, occasionally allowing for rain to seep in and dribble a little bit when the vehicle is parked. I have a slight vacuum leak by the EGR valve that I plan on replacing soon-ish; it's an o-ring/seal. I have had to replace the radio head unit once because the CD player jammed. I have had to disassemble the shifter assembly once because a plastic shift interlock latch broke, and I replaced it with a metal one for $20. (couldn't shift from park, original latch was plastic). The sunroof will auto-open and auto-close, but when it auto-closes I have to push some buttons to manually correct it to make it close flush with the roof. Other than that, no transmission problems, no engine problems, no mechanical disasters. It's a solid car that's easy to work on. The car does burn off some oil; I have to add a quart every 3,000 miles or so. I'm not sure if this is tolerances in the engine are off because of age and use, or if this is just by design since it's on par with the manual's recommended 3,000 mile oil changes. It could also be because I'm using synthetic when I should probably be using regular.
Pricing: I got mine at 121k miles for $5,000. 56k miles is practically brand new-ish; I'm not sure, but I would expect the price to be about $9k (assuming this is also a 2005). A good way to price check for sure is Kelly Blue Book ( kbb.com ) Used car dealers of course will try to charge extra compared to people off the street.
Gas mileage: This varies. I get anywhere between 12-17 city, and 20-25 highway. I'm not sure how much I spend per month these days, but the gas tank holds about 15-16 gallons of gas. 89 octane gas costs about $2.70. From empty to full, it costs me about $40 to fill up the gas tank. On a 200 mile highway trip, I burn less than half of the tank; the gas gauge reads halfway between the halfway line and 1/4 (from full) line. It's actually nice on gas, keeping in mind this car is a fat slab of metal. I've got the V6; V8 gets worse consumption (but is powerful). Another thing to note: Not sure what engine/year and all that you might be getting, but my manual says it's preferred to use 89 octane. You don't have to, but it's nice if you do, according to the manual. So keep that in mind.
Tires: I'm not sure about rims and 22 inch tires (I keep mine stock). But tires in and of themselves aren't too bad. If you go to firestone I think generally it comes out to be $300-$500 for four tires, unless the tires are super special. I've got Pirelli P4's, and I think I saw somewhere that firestone would install them for $125 a pop. But I'm sure they have cheaper stuff available too.
Anything else I can come up with: Don't buy one with the 2.6L engine. They're underpowered and wear themselves out fast. 3.5L V6 gets good fuel economy, and the V8 packs a nice punch - I'd say get one of those.
If your dealer provides a car fax, check it out. 56k miles is really nice but in your position I'd want to know the story of why that car found itself there. But so far, I'm at 155k miles, and I'm happy to report it seems to be doing much better than most cars as far as things like transmissions and engines go. I anticipate this car will live to about 250k before something severe happens. And I'm quite happy with the car, not bored of it yet. So I think it's a real good car. :)
I hope this answers your questions!
Oh! And I recommend keeping the owner's manual, buying a Hayne's repair manual (I got mine for $6 off of Amazon), and downloading a .pdf of the LX service manual. With these three you'll be invincible as far as regular maintenance goes.
Hi, what engine oil i should use on 2010 touring 3.5L, 131k miles
Hi there,
It's best to check what it says in your manual. The '05 300 uses 10w30 unless it's below 0C, then 5w30 is recommended. '10 should be similar, but I highly encourage double checking.
@@TheRoadsHereSuck Thanx a lot, i checked on cup and its 10w30
@@allweneedisjazz5360how long did your 300 last is it reliable I’m looking at the exact same year n model now
Mine got 189,000 ( 2005 300c 5.7L) and I hope I can keep driving all the way to 300,000
Hopefully!! I'm presently at 203,000; so I can tell you that at least that much should be alright! :)
To 300,000, we go!
@@TheRoadsHereSuck: Do you know if a cold Air Intake would help?
In theory there's a computer that controls air/gas to try to keep a steady/same horsepower. A CAI (without larger intake manifold, exhaust manifold, ecu tune) won't give much if any HP gains.
That said, although amount of power remains the same, I do feel like I did get an extra mpg or two. I don't think there's anything scientific or proven per say, but I imagine if less gas is used it might be easier on the engine a bit. At least, it's slightly more economic.
So it wouldn't help in any massive way - but it wont do harm, at least, and I personally found it to be slightly economically beneficial.
I just bought a 2010 300 touring with 115k miles , let’s see how it goes
How has it been? I just got the same one from my brother at 98k miles. Just had to switch the throttle body and it’s driving like butter
@@lrakwons9799 dude its been a ride. lets where to start. Overheating issues so new radiator, new compartment where the coolant is stored, new spark plugs, leaky hose which made the car smell like gasoline, new tires, high rpm's. new battery, new alternator, and other little things here and there like oil change. not going to lie i should have got a 3.6 instead but you live and learn. right now it has the check engine light on but im pretty sure its an oil change. its cool cause i have my other car its toyota camry so im reliant on that.
Damn you for taking the perfect channel name!
I really enjoyed video. I love the Chrysler 300. Looking at a used one, a 2005, mileage 172for $1,999, but it had 5 owners. A lot of unknowns, ...should I walk away from this?
I'm very glad to hear you enjoyed the video!
I would walk away from this. Fair price for a 300 with 172,000 miles is about $4,000 - 7,000. If the price is that low, something is probably wrong with it. Perhaps it has the 2.7L engine? Stay away from the 2.7L engines.
5 owners is also highly suspicious. For a 2005 I would say it would be fair for it to have 2-3 owners - 5 is a little bit concerning.
Do you get a carfax before buying the car? I very highly recommend doing that. Also, it's a good idea to bring an OBDII scanner when checking out these cars.
Long story short, I would personally stay away from that car. If it makes you feel like it's suspicious, it probably is.
Cheers!
I just picked up a 06 71k 1-2 owner (was originally sold by same dealer I bought it from) for 8.5k. Of course it has the hemi. In my shopping for one I would've never considered the car your describing. 2.7's are junk, 3.5's aren't much better, and even the 5.7's have some issues, like lifters going flat and junking the motor, and exhaust bolts breaking causing exhaust leaks.
if you do oil change outside your home, take a torque wrench and tell the tech to tighten the fucking bolt to spec
Problem is I wouldn't trust the high school kids working there even with that task
lol me too. I just changed mine.
I just brought a 2005 300Limited with 144k miles for 2800 , It’s good so far
Wooo, what a deal! Hopefully it treats you well for a long time!
Sometimes when i start my 2006 touring there is a lol shake in the engine but it stops right away any suggestion
Smart Detailing motor mounts
Good vid yo!! I'm at 122k miles. Time for brakes and rotors
Thank you!
Where about a in pa are you? I’m in Erie, I have a 07 srt8 charger and only problem is mpg cause I can’t keep my foot out of it 😂😂. I’m trying to talk my bud into getting a 300srt
I save all my receipts for my 300 and Denali
The drain plug problem must be common because it happened to me I couldn’t get it out and same thing happened
Thanks. What size motor?
2.7
I've got the 3.5L SOHC V6
2.7 v6
3.5v8
5.7 HEMI V8
SRT8 6.1 V8
Wish you would have added pricing to this video
I do too. Looking back there's no way I can precisely price everything, which is a shame.
Nevertheless, thank you for watching
Hey, whats the site to lookup vin info on recalls
Try this: www.nhtsa.gov/recalls
That is beautiful car.
Thank you! :)
i don't have eyes subcribed
Subscribed awesome video
Im scared of getting Chrysler cuz i dont want for anyone to steal it ._. i dont have a garage
In a comment u said stay away from 2.7 liter why is that? I just got one
The 2.7 are notoriously subpar engines. Google it and you can see all of the issues and consumer complaints on them.
I will pray for you xD
@@HemiLyfestyle lol. Not laughing at the guy who got the 2.7, that would be mean, but I know what you mean when you say you'll pray for him.
@@MAWA-Vik19 lol
No worries bro!!!
How much is it worth?
The car? I got it for $5,000.
Presently it's worth $4500-8000.
I have a 300 boston model live the car 2006
I have a 2005chrysler300touring
Getting rid of my 2012 Chrysler 300 , I would never buy another Chrysler product.
Why you say this?
@@ivorysteele They are built cheap, front fender always falling off. they are low to the ground, Had issues the day I bought it. It was one years old and had to replace Rotors, then had to have spring replaced inside gear selector. Had to take it in for various recalls, No more Chrysler's for me.
@@dannelson4209 Thank you
Is chrisler 300 v6 2.7 with 121.000 miles for $2,600 a good deal saids nothing wrong just passed inspection n admissions
Harvin Omar NO! that engine is junk ,do some research on that engine
No 2.7 worst motor ever.
Mine is an 06 300c hemi and has 42 thousand..
Oooh.. :D Nice 'n new!
Thanks for watching, by the way!
I do a log as well...
What engine
3.5L V6
cool
Thank you! Thanks for watching! :)
So why are you so broke that you don't just let them do an oil change when replacing the drain plug to the point where u spoke to the manager? Are you in school or just content with a poor paying career?
Nah just nobody ever got rich by throwing whatever money they had out left and right
@@TheRoadsHereSuck u are right about that brother
im on the spectrum too.
Wait 4 it
Still waiting
You stuffed your own car.
your driving position is too far from streering wheel and hold it with both hands
Lmfao, (this one is just fucking garbage) 1:90
Plenty of road noise inside hey .
perhaps
The tie rods were the only thing that was beyond normal maintainance and the little plastic part too I'd say ...I've had a couple new cars that I've had to change the rotors on in the first several months of ownership ...Mercury covered that under warranty but Chevy wouldn't even tho the car had less than 1,000 miles on it
Yeah, I agree with you! People tend to say the 300's have suspension issues that need sorting out eventually. And yes, the plastic interlock latch was a bit odd (that should be a recall in my opinion, since it potentially leaves people stranded).
Thanks for watching, by the way!