Hey DaBinChe, great video's! I know this is kind of old now, but I just want to add that according to the Honda CB300F manual chain slack should be measured while on the kickstand, and it appears that it should only be checked pulling in the up direction.
Oil and filter change and chain adjustment is the majority of the first service performed at the dealership. They also check your cables and SHOULD check bolts and fasteners for proper tightness. A proper first service includes valve adjustment. Back in the old days it also included a carb sync. ----- I love how you didn't think your chain was out of adjustment and you finally read that it should only have .8"-1.0" of play. You had about 3 inches of play...lol. That's what happens fast with new factory chains because they're cheap. Get yourself a DID gold chain and you'll see they do not stretch much even when new. ----- You don't have to measure at all. Use a carpenter's laser level. Look up how to do that either on RUclips or on a motorcycle parts website. There are hash marks on both sides that you use to do the job right without worrying that they're not even, because they will be even if you align to the same marks on both sides. ----- Nice Pit Bull rear stand. You should buy bolt on jack spindles for your rear forks. The rubber on those stands is the first thing to go and then you start scratching your rear forks.
+Wabbit1961 Modern honda motors don't really need a valve adjustment for quite some time. My last honda had 50k miles and never needed a valve adjust, I did check it several times. Single cylinders don't need to be sync. Factory chain is fine, it is what it is and spending $200 on a DID Gold chain defeats the purpose of saving money. Really, who the hell is gonna go out and spend a couple hundred on a carpenters laser level when a tape measure is less then $10. Those factory marks on each side of the axle are notorious for being off from each other, a true pro will not rely on them and will measure center to center on both sides. There aren't any good options for the rear spindle currently, can't adjust the chain or take off the rear wheel with what is available.
+DaBinChe ----- Where are you located? I'm not talking about an expensive carpenter's level. I have a cheap bubble glass level with a dual sided laser that cost me all of $10. Wal-Mart I think, or K-mart. I'm not in favor of following the maintenance schedule for a lot of things - especially the valve adjustment. I was saying that at a REAL first service they do check the valves and adjust if needed because break-in is where it may loosen the most. I do that service myself after the first service, and I agree with you, they don't need adjusting often. My Honda Interceptor didn't need it and it had 45,000 miles on it. If you hear ticking, yes. As far as the rear spindle mounts, they are available. That's a standard set of rear forks. Ask your dealership and they should be kind enough to look them up for you. Or go online for aftermarket at any number of online bike accessory stores, like Revzilla, or Motorcycle superstore. I find it best to call and ask and they do the looking for you. Then go online and look for best price. The bolt on models usually cost about $60-$80. The chain does make a difference. It's not an expense when it's worth it, but you don't have to go out and replace it immediately. That's my preference. Stock chains suck. ----- Do you plan any modification to your suspension? I always put Progressive fork springs in bikes that have non-adjusting front ends. Usually cost about $80, and a heavier weight fork oil. Does wonders.
I followed you instructions and managed to loosen the chain since when i had it tighten at the shop they had left it super tight and it would engine brake while the clutch was out. Strangely it gave it a LOT of torque despite the engine braking while "coasting" with the clutch but now it lost a little bottom end torque when i loosened the chain.... Was i right in giving the chain some give?
I also have a Honda CB300F (ABS), my chain had been exceptional loose (after some long rides) - the chain slack was ~50mm, I tried adjusting and tightening the chain by pulling the read axle back. In fact, I pulled it as far back as it would go; starting with the tight spot first. The Read Axle nut Indicator was on the line between Green and Red. After re-tightening the nuts; cycling the wheel around, I confirmed it was as tight as possible. After all this, I remeasured the chain slack and it was still around ~35mm. My manual says it should be between 20-30mm. So I'm wondering does this mean I should just replace the chain? How safe do you think it is? I've done ~17,000km on the bike so far. This is the 4th chain adjustment I've made (always needed to tighten more). Any advise would be appreciated.
once the axle can't slide back anymore then it is time for a new chain and sprockets. Get a high quality chain, DID ZVMX last longer then any other chain on the market.
Hey DaBinChe, great video's! I know this is kind of old now, but I just want to add that according to the Honda CB300F manual chain slack should be measured while on the kickstand, and it appears that it should only be checked pulling in the up direction.
Lots of good info! Thanks for making the video. (Even though I'm watching it 3 years after it was posted) :)
Oil and filter change and chain adjustment is the majority of the first service performed at the dealership. They also check your cables and SHOULD check bolts and fasteners for proper tightness. A proper first service includes valve adjustment. Back in the old days it also included a carb sync. ----- I love how you didn't think your chain was out of adjustment and you finally read that it should only have .8"-1.0" of play. You had about 3 inches of play...lol. That's what happens fast with new factory chains because they're cheap. Get yourself a DID gold chain and you'll see they do not stretch much even when new. ----- You don't have to measure at all. Use a carpenter's laser level. Look up how to do that either on RUclips or on a motorcycle parts website. There are hash marks on both sides that you use to do the job right without worrying that they're not even, because they will be even if you align to the same marks on both sides. ----- Nice Pit Bull rear stand. You should buy bolt on jack spindles for your rear forks. The rubber on those stands is the first thing to go and then you start scratching your rear forks.
+Wabbit1961 Modern honda motors don't really need a valve adjustment for quite some time. My last honda had 50k miles and never needed a valve adjust, I did check it several times. Single cylinders don't need to be sync. Factory chain is fine, it is what it is and spending $200 on a DID Gold chain defeats the purpose of saving money. Really, who the hell is gonna go out and spend a couple hundred on a carpenters laser level when a tape measure is less then $10. Those factory marks on each side of the axle are notorious for being off from each other, a true pro will not rely on them and will measure center to center on both sides. There aren't any good options for the rear spindle currently, can't adjust the chain or take off the rear wheel with what is available.
+DaBinChe ----- Where are you located? I'm not talking about an expensive carpenter's level. I have a cheap bubble glass level with a dual sided laser that cost me all of $10. Wal-Mart I think, or K-mart. I'm not in favor of following the maintenance schedule for a lot of things - especially the valve adjustment. I was saying that at a REAL first service they do check the valves and adjust if needed because break-in is where it may loosen the most. I do that service myself after the first service, and I agree with you, they don't need adjusting often. My Honda Interceptor didn't need it and it had 45,000 miles on it. If you hear ticking, yes. As far as the rear spindle mounts, they are available. That's a standard set of rear forks. Ask your dealership and they should be kind enough to look them up for you. Or go online for aftermarket at any number of online bike accessory stores, like Revzilla, or Motorcycle superstore. I find it best to call and ask and they do the looking for you. Then go online and look for best price. The bolt on models usually cost about $60-$80. The chain does make a difference. It's not an expense when it's worth it, but you don't have to go out and replace it immediately. That's my preference. Stock chains suck. ----- Do you plan any modification to your suspension? I always put Progressive fork springs in bikes that have non-adjusting front ends. Usually cost about $80, and a heavier weight fork oil. Does wonders.
Thank you for showing us this! Which paddock stand are you using?
PitBull, they make the best stands
Great information. Thank you very much, you ROCK.!!!!
Is it the same way with a cb300fa abs version? Very good vid btw
Lorenz Gumban yes, pretty much all motorcycles
Hi. What rear stand is this? I'm not sure what type to buy for my CB300F.
PitBull
Great video! Just what I needed!
I followed you instructions and managed to loosen the chain since when i had it tighten at the shop they had left it super tight and it would engine brake while the clutch was out.
Strangely it gave it a LOT of torque despite the engine braking while "coasting" with the clutch but now it lost a little bottom end torque when i loosened the chain....
Was i right in giving the chain some give?
+didactic polymath should follow Honda's recommendation on chain slack...but the key is to find the tight spot first and adjust from there.
I also have a Honda CB300F (ABS), my chain had been exceptional loose (after some long rides) - the chain slack was ~50mm, I tried adjusting and tightening the chain by pulling the read axle back. In fact, I pulled it as far back as it would go; starting with the tight spot first. The Read Axle nut Indicator was on the line between Green and Red. After re-tightening the nuts; cycling the wheel around, I confirmed it was as tight as possible. After all this, I remeasured the chain slack and it was still around ~35mm. My manual says it should be between 20-30mm.
So I'm wondering does this mean I should just replace the chain? How safe do you think it is? I've done ~17,000km on the bike so far. This is the 4th chain adjustment I've made (always needed to tighten more).
Any advise would be appreciated.
once the axle can't slide back anymore then it is time for a new chain and sprockets. Get a high quality chain, DID ZVMX last longer then any other chain on the market.
i like your videos on the 300f thanks for your maintenance know how.