Its a 5/16" or 10/32" o-ring. I took off the blue cracked one installed it and it works great.👍 Also no need to take off the generator. Remove the on/off knob in the off position, remove & replace the cracked o-ring and reinstal with the knob in the off position.
You're lucky yours let you keep the generator in place. I tried not removing the generator tube in my 'dry run' disassembly, and couldn't get the control lever back in. This lever moves an "offset" plunger that presses down on the valve at the top of the draw tube, and pulls the cleaning wire out of the nozzle, and mine would spin out of alignment every time. Removing the generator and orienting the "half moon" on that piston was the only way this particular stove would cooperate.
Just make sure you keep track of and reconnect the 'cleaning' wire inside the generator tube. I missed that the first time I reassembled it and had to redo.
H, I, WorkbenchZ, I have got coleman 400A. whenever I use it , yellow flame appear at the bottom of generator bracket and I blow it to extinguish often. could you tell me how to fix it please ?
Without seeing it, I can only make a guess: the gas tip might be leaking where it attaches to the generator tube, and a new generator might fix it. With the bracket off watch (but don't light) the fuel to see where fuel is coming from, if it is dripping from the gas-tip/tube joint, or dripping out the burner box assembly.
Thanks for this video - one question, though... why did you remove the generator (at 1:49 in your video) at all? I replaced the O-ring on my 533 removing only the valve assembly, and had no trouble. Consequently, I didn't need to worry about the paper-clip assisted re-alignment of the half-moon piece that fits into the generator tube. Maybe I was just lucky, but I wondered if you had a specific reason to do so... Cheers!
Before filming, when I did an exploratory disassembly to remove this fuel control arm and inspect its o-ring, the eccentric block rotated immediately and I could not get the offset pin on the control arm to engage the side cut-out of the eccentric block. Removing the generator and using the eyelet for the cleaning wire to hold it in orientation was the only way that worked on this. I'd rather have done it your way, and not had to remove the generator, but my stove seems truculent, LOL.
These use the same valves as in the 508 and I replaced the o-rings in mine with viton ones with no problem. I have had issues with minute cracks or burrs with viton o-rings so i wonder if that might have been the cause for why yours didn't seal. I have a good number of easi-lite lanterns and stoves and all have been rebuilt with full viton o-rings with zero problems. Either way, I'm glad to see you got your leak fixed and you should be good to go for another 20 years. 😁
I'm glad to hear the viton ones worked for you. I'll have to give my kit a closer inspection. I also have a bit of a 'popping' issue that I'll post if I sort it out.
Instant Subscriber. Got a 533 Leaks in that spot. We live in the age of youtube. Easy fix Looking to make hot tea, food on carpentery jobs, and out fishing Thank You!
I am having difficulties getting my new stove to simmer ie have a lower temperature setting... Its as if the Red lever isn't doing anything...its either on 100% or off... no middle ground. Do you think replacing those valves could fix it?
I would take the generator tube off and watch the piston (half moon) as you operate the lever, it should move smoothly up and down as you turn the lever. The valve head under that piston could be sticking, the piston itself could be twisted catawampus, the 'cleaning wire' inside the generator tube may be kinked and not sliding smoothly. 'cleaning wire' is kind of a misnomer, it blocks up the jet/tip of the generator tube so that when you turn off the stove it shuts off immediately instead of slowly burning down the fuel remaining in the generator tube, sort of a safety feature.
I recently purchased a used 533. I pressurised it and opened the valve to see if I could hear the air hissing. I couldn’t. Everyone on RUclips said that the only issues with this lantern is the generator, so I took off the generator and flushed it out and it seems fine. Put the generator back on and tried again. Got nothing. It’s appears that the fuel is not reaching the generator. Any ideas ?
A few basic troubleshooting ones: 1. Is it holding pressure when you pump it up and when you open the fuel cap you hear air hiss out? Sometimes the check valve at the bottom of the pump gets grit in it and it gets stuck shut or open. 2. Remove the generator tube, pressurize it and open the valve and see if you hear the air hiss out the valve itself. 3. The cleaning wire, pushed all the way into the tube, blocks the jet so that turning off the stove extinguishes the flame immediately. Blow through the generator tube with the wire pushed all the way in and no air should flow. Pull the wire back some and when you blow through it some air should flow thorough the tube. The valve might not be retracting the cleaning wire far enough. On mine the eyelet was a tad stretched, bigger than a 90°, wasn't pulling the wire back far enough, and bending it back to a little bit sharper angle than 90° fixed that.
Where the generator tube meets the valve? either tighten the compression nut a bit more, or check for scratches/dings on the tube's flare and valve mating surface to see if either is not longer smooth to make a good seal and replace if necessary.
I'm not familiar with the difference between the 533 and 533A. Mine worked with this #9 o-ring, thanks to the help I received on colemancollectorsforum.com so you might try posting there....
Hi Steve!!!!Nitrile ring 008 is the part number????I have a Dual Fuel model 533!!!Will this ring fit this model????I would appreciate it if I can get the exact link to this ring!!!! Thanks in advance Steve!!!!
Any suggestions for what could be wrong if it's leaking from the burner box and not lighting up? I've double checked the generator and cleaned it as well but no luck.
Fuel goes from the tank through the valve through the generator tube and out the nozzle on the end of the generator tube. The nozzle makes the fuel spray as a fine mist, so if you have liquid fuel dripping around the burner box, the nozzle would be my first suspect.
@@workbenchz Thank you for replying. I cleaned the nozzle. I double checked the O-rings thinking maybe it's the air fuel mixture. One of the rings seems to be the culprit.
Steve, you’re a gem! Bought a 533 from eBay with several problems. This will solve one !
I love this stove. There will be another video on it sorting out a pop-pop-pop sound.
Its a 5/16" or 10/32" o-ring. I took off the blue cracked one installed it and it works great.👍
Also no need to take off the generator. Remove the on/off knob in the off position, remove & replace the cracked o-ring and reinstal with the knob in the off position.
You're lucky yours let you keep the generator in place. I tried not removing the generator tube in my 'dry run' disassembly, and couldn't get the control lever back in. This lever moves an "offset" plunger that presses down on the valve at the top of the draw tube, and pulls the cleaning wire out of the nozzle, and mine would spin out of alignment every time. Removing the generator and orienting the "half moon" on that piston was the only way this particular stove would cooperate.
Just what I needed. I have a Peak 1 that is leaking in the same spot.
GOD Bless you and your family
I hope this helps. Sometime soon I'll be addressing my stove's 'popping' sound.
Exactly what i was looking for thank you so much for the video!!
Glad I could help!
Thank you! My stove has developed this same leak and now I know what to do :)
Just make sure you keep track of and reconnect the 'cleaning' wire inside the generator tube. I missed that the first time I reassembled it and had to redo.
@@workbenchz ok thanks for that tip
H, I, WorkbenchZ, I have got coleman 400A. whenever I use it , yellow flame appear at the bottom of generator bracket and
I blow it to extinguish often. could you tell me how to fix it please ?
Without seeing it, I can only make a guess: the gas tip might be leaking where it attaches to the generator tube, and a new generator might fix it. With the bracket off watch (but don't light) the fuel to see where fuel is coming from, if it is dripping from the gas-tip/tube joint, or dripping out the burner box assembly.
Because of your video, I was able to save my stove that I was going to throw away. Thank you!
I'm happy to hear that this was helpful. I prefer fixing things to replacing them.
Thanks for this video - one question, though... why did you remove the generator (at 1:49 in your video) at all? I replaced the O-ring on my 533 removing only the valve assembly, and had no trouble. Consequently, I didn't need to worry about the paper-clip assisted re-alignment of the half-moon piece that fits into the generator tube. Maybe I was just lucky, but I wondered if you had a specific reason to do so...
Cheers!
Before filming, when I did an exploratory disassembly to remove this fuel control arm and inspect its o-ring, the eccentric block rotated immediately and I could not get the offset pin on the control arm to engage the side cut-out of the eccentric block. Removing the generator and using the eyelet for the cleaning wire to hold it in orientation was the only way that worked on this. I'd rather have done it your way, and not had to remove the generator, but my stove seems truculent, LOL.
These use the same valves as in the 508 and I replaced the o-rings in mine with viton ones with no problem. I have had issues with minute cracks or burrs with viton o-rings so i wonder if that might have been the cause for why yours didn't seal. I have a good number of easi-lite lanterns and stoves and all have been rebuilt with full viton o-rings with zero problems. Either way, I'm glad to see you got your leak fixed and you should be good to go for another 20 years. 😁
I'm glad to hear the viton ones worked for you. I'll have to give my kit a closer inspection. I also have a bit of a 'popping' issue that I'll post if I sort it out.
Instant Subscriber.
Got a 533 Leaks in that spot.
We live in the age of youtube. Easy fix
Looking to make hot tea, food on carpentery jobs, and out fishing
Thank You!
I'm happy this was helpful.
Thanks! I just ordered that 3-o-ring kit and it was about $6.45 and free shipping. Pretty nice
I'm glad this helped.
Update: O-rings installed and now it works like a champ.
Where did you order the kit and does it have a parts number PLEASE!!!
I am having difficulties getting my new stove to simmer ie have a lower temperature setting... Its as if the Red lever isn't doing anything...its either on 100% or off... no middle ground. Do you think replacing those valves could fix it?
I would take the generator tube off and watch the piston (half moon) as you operate the lever, it should move smoothly up and down as you turn the lever. The valve head under that piston could be sticking, the piston itself could be twisted catawampus, the 'cleaning wire' inside the generator tube may be kinked and not sliding smoothly.
'cleaning wire' is kind of a misnomer, it blocks up the jet/tip of the generator tube so that when you turn off the stove it shuts off immediately instead of slowly burning down the fuel remaining in the generator tube, sort of a safety feature.
Thank you for the reply! ill will try fiddling with the generator wire and go from there, fingers crossed.
Thank you, Sir! This will come on handy if I ever run into a leaking issue.
I'm glad you found this helpful.
I recently purchased a used 533. I pressurised it and opened the valve to see if I could hear the air hissing. I couldn’t. Everyone on RUclips said that the only issues with this lantern is the generator, so I took off the generator and flushed it out and it seems fine. Put the generator back on and tried again. Got nothing. It’s appears that the fuel is not reaching the generator. Any ideas ?
A few basic troubleshooting ones: 1. Is it holding pressure when you pump it up and when you open the fuel cap you hear air hiss out? Sometimes the check valve at the bottom of the pump gets grit in it and it gets stuck shut or open. 2. Remove the generator tube, pressurize it and open the valve and see if you hear the air hiss out the valve itself. 3. The cleaning wire, pushed all the way into the tube, blocks the jet so that turning off the stove extinguishes the flame immediately. Blow through the generator tube with the wire pushed all the way in and no air should flow. Pull the wire back some and when you blow through it some air should flow thorough the tube. The valve might not be retracting the cleaning wire far enough. On mine the eyelet was a tad stretched, bigger than a 90°, wasn't pulling the wire back far enough, and bending it back to a little bit sharper angle than 90° fixed that.
@@workbenchz thanks.
Any idea what to do if they leak out the top part of the valve?
Where the generator tube meets the valve? either tighten the compression nut a bit more, or check for scratches/dings on the tube's flare and valve mating surface to see if either is not longer smooth to make a good seal and replace if necessary.
This should work but Old Coleman Parts doesn't have the o-ring kit that should fit the 533A Dual Fuel stove.
I'm not familiar with the difference between the 533 and 533A. Mine worked with this #9 o-ring, thanks to the help I received on colemancollectorsforum.com so you might try posting there....
Size and source for the correct o rings?
www.oldcolemanparts.com/O-Ring-Set-Canadian-Blue-S11.html
I think it was the #9 (largest of the 3).
Thank you Steve.
I'm glad to put these out here, similar videos helped me, and I want to do the same.
Hallo Steve ,wo bekomme ich diesen O - Ring her ? 4:36
"Where can you get this o-ring?" oldcolemanparts.com is where I got mine. The blue o-rings are nitrile. I think a 008 should work.
Hi Steve!!!!Nitrile ring 008 is the part number????I have a Dual Fuel model 533!!!Will this ring fit this model????I would appreciate it if I can get the exact link to this ring!!!! Thanks in advance Steve!!!!
Any suggestions for what could be wrong if it's leaking from the burner box and not lighting up? I've double checked the generator and cleaned it as well but no luck.
Fuel goes from the tank through the valve through the generator tube and out the nozzle on the end of the generator tube. The nozzle makes the fuel spray as a fine mist, so if you have liquid fuel dripping around the burner box, the nozzle would be my first suspect.
@@workbenchz Thank you for replying. I cleaned the nozzle. I double checked the O-rings thinking maybe it's the air fuel mixture. One of the rings seems to be the culprit.
Cheap o rings work but not for more than a season i figured out. O rings i got from eBay said they were good for gas oil ect... clearly not.
I tried it again before I changed the o ring and no leaks... so maybe it was the high altitude causing pressure to build up inside.
Regular rubber won't stand up to petroleum, and the synthetic ones need to fit right.
Thanks for the help!!!!
One of my Northstar leaks every other year. Damn Ebay o rings…look right but fail
Sometimes getting OEM is worth it, or as close as possible. There is a coleman collector's forum that pointed me to these o rings.
1:10 vapor on shaft
Yup, that was the Harbor Freight o-ring failure.
Thank you sor
I'm glad it helped.