Volvo 960, S90, V90 Timing belt, water pump, rollers Replacement. Part 1 of 2 - VOTD
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- WARNING: This video contains annotations that may not be visible on the RUclips Droid app.
Timing belt replacement without water pump: 4 to 6 hours, With water pump 5 to 7 hours.
This video will show you how to replace the timing belt, water pump, idler roller, tensioner roller and tensioner on a Volvo 960, S90 and V90. It should take you 3 to 4 hours. Make sure you have all parts on hand prior to starting the job.
The only tool not mentioned is the short 3/8" extension.
Torque values:
Tensioner Roller, 30 Ft Lbs.
Idler Roller, 18 Ft Lbs.
Hydraulic Tensioner, 18 Ft Lbs.
Water Pump, 15 Ft Lbs.
Hello Robert,
Thankyou for those wonderful 2 videos. Last saturday I did that repair on my Volvo V90. With your very detailed explantion it took 4.5 hours and the job was done without any problems (timingbelt, waterpump, new rolls, new tensioner). Many thanks from Germany.
Werner
Werner Luszczyk Nice fast speed. Glad it helped you.
Robert, this might be ancient history to you but thank you very much for posting this video and others like it. I am still driving my 960 on a daily basis (identical to the one in the video, 29 years old now) and you've contributed to that. All of your videos which are the best and most explicit on the net make me comfortable doing my own repairs )which has become essential).
Very welcome
This was really helpful. I didn't see that the lower cover at the harmonic dampener had two bolts. This just saved me a whole lot of trouble that I would have had to get the dampener off. Thanks for this! ❤
Glad it helped!
wow thank you. going through repair videos to see how hard volvo repairs would be, very useful. much love from chicago
Nice, I'm in Chicago now.
I really enjoyed how you took the water pump off. " normally just jerk it up and down with my hand until it pops off great!" That's amazing dude awesome video keep it up!
LOL, Thanks for watching.
Thanks Robert ..greetings from Scotland ..just bought a 960 that probably has not had a timing belt for many years
+flingshitehigh thanks for watching.
First, Robert, thanks for the video. Second, I find that when I do a timing belt, the best thing to do is replace not just the idle roller and tensioner roller, but the tensioner also. It's a cheap part, so it's cheap insurance to replace it to avoid failure of the tensioner later (also all the seals). I my experience, it's not the timing belt that fails, it's the water pump, tensioner, or pulleys that fail causing the belt to slip or jump time.
I agree. Usually one of the rollers. The tensioner rarely fails and I have read about more water pump failures on after market water pumps than on OEM pumps.
The sad thing about it is, most of these old car owners are young and strapped for cash or older like me and strapped for cash. The only difference is, I will purchase a $100 tensioner before I go to Red Lobster with 3 friends (or out drinking). I'm glad to get them to change the belt and a couple of rollers.
If I had to make a chart, like some guy on one of the Volvo sites tried to do, my guess would be a break down like this:
Idler roller: 40%
Tensioner roller: 35%
Broken belt: 15%
Water pump: 7%
Tensioner: 3%
That is just the feel I get from reading dozens of failed timing belt post.
Right. I'd agree except I think the pump would fail (from experience) before the belt. Good breakdown!
I'm still shocked as to how many people have NO IDEA that they have a belt to change.
What's the deal with that?! All that info is in the owner's manual, yet, it seems, EVERYONE refuses to read it! First thing I told my wife to do when she got her last car was "read the owner's manual cover to cover". Not that she'll be working on it though!!
I link several of these video's on my FaceBook page and friends still call me with "my timing belt broke and I wanted to know if you think..." I don't get it. I try to encourage people to read the owners manual but they just won't. Change oil every 3,000 miles (when the manual says 10,000), and add gas and go. Good luck with that.
My 97 Volvo with the 2.9 died at low rpm. Realized the tensioner went and I was so heartbroken. Just got the car. Winter came and went; I was fully expecting to require a head at minimum. With the spring weather I get a closer look, and get this.. The tensioner pulley bearing went, belt slipped off that, but that wasn't that stopped the engine...the timing belt started to rub against the plastic case and jammed up! I think there is a chance it didn't run into itself!! I will give more updates. TY either way Robert DIY; you have very succinct, to the point videos that allow people to fix their own stuff.
Thanks for watching.
@@RobertDIY This will applied for 2017 Volvo S90 ?
I had a 1985 Volvo 760 Turbo and 1998 Volvo V70 solid cars as long as the maintenance routine are followed especially the timing belt. I recall for the 1998 Volvo V70 the water pump and timing belt had to be replaced at the same time due to the design of the car.
Great point!
Thanks Robert 3 timing belt 2 damagedtop. Head l used motor other top head this one change waterpump time belt good job luck in future.
cool
This will come in handy after my S70 broke down and my next car is an 960!
Interesting.
Hi Robert , discovered your channel and have subscribed. Just got a 'new' '92 960, timing belt is the first thing on the list. Thanks for the excellent videos.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Hope it helped. Thanks for watching.
Você é o mestre dos Volvo, entende tudo sobre essas verdadeira máquinas sobre rodas. Parabéns pelo canal 👏👏👏 abraços do Brasil 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Obrigado pelas palavras gentis e por assistir.
Hy Rob, beautiful and very interesting video. Yours make me like learn mechanic each time I see one... Applause and big up !
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for this video. You did a great job
Marvelous instruction on the finer details. thanks
+Tom Knud you are welcome. Thanks for watching.
I might. That car has a blocked system. Right on the back on of the MAF you will see a vacuum connection that has the flame trap in it. Replace the flame trap and that might be enough.
Hello did waterpump timing belt. Now got blowby are air in lines gota 960 2.9 and it is a inference great vidieos and thanks.
you are welcome.
Thanks, bro. it is very clear a completed explanation i just finished set timing on one of these Volvo XC 90. step by step, didn't had not problems. Thanks again...!!!!!
+Martin Granados Cool, thanks for watching.
Bro Robert, can you make a video how the 2 sprokets work, why it's have front a back play from upper timing belt. Thnx.
Huh? There is no play. Not sure what you mean by "sprockets work". As the engine turns they open and close valves. The turn the cams.
Is there a part of the video that blacks out or something?
I've got the timing belt kit, water pump and (if the thunderstorms stop) I'm going to change my damaged timing belt today. Crossing my fingers than nothing unexpected and difficult to deal with pops up. If all goes to plan, my V90 "collectors car of the future" will be back on the road tomorrow.
That T45 for the tensioner pulley does make me apprehensive - the depth for the T45 in the bolt is only about 1/8 inch. At least I have a brand new T45 bit from a reputable maker for a 1/2 inch ratchet.
v8pilot Sounds good. What do you mean by "damaged timing belt"?
Robert DIY
I had a piece of hard black plastic get tangled in the timing belt after I had checked it visually (you may remember I posted a comment here to warn people of that happening). It had punched a hole through the timing belt.
When I checked the marks on the crank and the two cam wheels today, I found that the timing belt had jumped one tooth on the crank pulley. I had checked the marks prior to the incident and they had been correct, so there is no doubt that the plastic bit caused it to jump. The crunch noise it made was heart-stopping.
v8pilot Oh yes. Wasn't sure if that was you.
Robert DIY
The T45 came undone without trouble. I used a torque wrench but I was intent on watching the bolt so I did not notice the torque that undid it. 30 lb ft seemed a lot in doing up the new one but it did up without trouble. With any luck, I'll have the job completed by lunchtime tomorrow.
A neat idea.
The mechanic at the Volvo garage that did the previous timing belt change put a white spot of paint on each of the two camshaft wheels, so that when the wheels are correct relative to the timing belt cover, the two white spots are directly opposite one another. That way, you can tell at a glance if the camshaft wheels are in the correct position without needing to put the cover back in its place.
v8pilot
Yes, I finished the job by lunchtime today. After I had checked everything twice, I had no choice but to start the engine (with the timing belt cover still off). Everything ran fine, so put everything back in its place.
Robert, thank you for posting these videos. I am not sure I would have done the job without their guidance.
Hi Robert and thanks for informative video which scared me a little bit. I have Volvo 2004 V40 and the timing belt got contaminated with oil and got loose and both cams jumped on certain position. I took the chance and replaced the timing belt with it's kits after watching your other video and thank God no interference engine and no bent valves. The car started fine but I am having problem installing the old serpentine belt although I followed the routing diagram and tried all possible configuration . Any hint before I buy new drive belt other than the belt got shorting due to cold weather. Thanks
2nd Time I seen this post.
picked up a 98 for 300 bucks. The timing belt broke and the lady who owned it kept on cranking. She paid a local shop almost 700 bucks for new timing stuff, which was all installed, belt, idler, tensioner. Now, of course, a couple of the valves are bent, and I'm torn between putting a used motor in for 500 bucks or simply taking the head off, ensuring that the pistons aren't damaged and having the head rebuilt. Your thoughts?
+Daewoo Rifleparts It's a really nice car with straight body and no rust having been in AZ most of it's life. So I'd hate to see it hauled to the scrap yard.
+Daewoo Rifleparts a $500 engine would be cheaper.
+Robert DIY Sadly that engine is gone. I can get one for 850 with a 1yr warranty local. I got the head off today and 4 exh valves are def bent. Not sure if the head can be rebuilt. Busted off a head bolt down inside too. Gonna have to get the extractor set out for that little gem.
Yes, that happens.
+Robert DIY got it out, now waiting for the head, gasket set and bolts.
Nice, thanks for the tip.
Thank you for this video. I’m about to tackle this job on a 96 960 that currently has 114k miles. Just gotta find that yellow block tool
They are on my website
Oh, yeah - and you want to be sure to have the radio code before you disconnect the battery. In my area, I had to call more than one dealer before finding one who'd give it to me free over the phone. Another dealer wanted me to pay $10 to get that information. I've heard of some Volvo dealers charging up to $100!
Great Great Videos! My son and I did his '95 960. There are some of items we'd like to share -
1) We did not have the yellow special tool to work with the serpentine tensioner. I found on another volvo forum that you could use pennies along with 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar. I found I needed 3 cents. Used a nail to hold the tensioner in place.
2) Had trouble with the bottom hydraulic tensioner bolt. Got a different box end wrench and made sure it was fully on. (we had started to round the edges).
3) The fuel injector cover require 27 torx - be careful when re-inserting them we got one in started on an angle and had to correct before doing any more damage to the screw.
Would like to communicate with you - can you send me a message?
Thanks for you input. Sure, lots of people do, you can go to my website and contact me through there or send me a message from my channel ABOUT page.
hello i have a question i have a 88 nissan maxima with the 3.0 v6 and it is an interference engine my qquestion is after removing all the timimg belt covers can i just take off the old belt and install a new one with making sure that no cams or cranks move??because my engine runs great now so it will be just a swap will it bend the valves do i have to realign everything againn? im also changing the water pump and tensioner please answer as soon as possible the car has 108000 the belt was never changed will u also recomend to change it now or wait??
Robert, I got a car and the previous mechanic had the timing marks off bad, I got the volvo tool to lock the cams together, they should be set on the mark with the exhaust valve about to open first, is that correct?
I don't even know what kind of car you have. I also have no idea about any valve about to open etc. These vehicles are timed by marks. If you installed the cam locking tool on the back of the cams, you need to make sure the crank is on it's mark and install the belt.
ruclips.net/video/gt9w-ZSxs9I/видео.html
@@RobertDIY thank you sir for your prompt response, I have an 07 s40 with the s4 motor, yes sir, I used the volvo locking tool, had a blown head gasket I inherited with leaking cam seals so I replaced the seals and gasket, the timing marks were off when I got the car I'm surprised it even ran honestly. I set all the marks and turned the motor by hand but now my marks are off again. Currently attempting to reset everything on their marks again, hoping everything stays this time. My concern is that it's possible to put the locking tool on wrong since it locks into the cuts in the cam, I set mine to the exhaust opening 1st since it sb going to TDC on compression stroke the exhaust valves should open b4 the intake, does that seem right? Now I'm wishing I took pictures, thanks for your help man I've been rummaging through your videos for a bit trying to make sure I fix this car right.
Well, my videos say NOTHING about exhaust valves opening, TDC or any of that so I have no idea who's instructions you are following. 🤷🏾♂️
I don't even know why you are messaging me on a 960 video when I have done a cylinder head job on that specific engine.
Why do you drain the coolant? Doesn't seem necessary. Also, why not just remove the negative battery cable instead of removing the battery entirely? Great video.
So, you're going to pull the water pump and loose the coolant that way?
I have a 1997 960 Volvo . A part of my convator belt broke idk I'll send u pictures of it but the problem is people are telling me it's gonna cost a lot to get one of those pieces I want to know is there any alternate pieces I can use
+kirk ragland If you are talking about a broken timing belt, the motor is damaged and needs to be rebuilt.
Robert, I got the pip on the oil pump lined up with the notch in the pulley, then the mark on the left wheel is about 3/4 of a tooth to the LEFT of the center of the notch in the cover, and the mark on the right wheel is about 1/2 tooth to the RIGHT of the center of the notch on the cover. Is this OK, and if not, what should I do about it?
The video so far has been spot on. Thanks! Really need to know the answer to my question before I proceed, though. (car is a 1998 S90)
+Pilgrim9899 That should not be an issue. However, if you move the exhaust cam one tooth, it will be 1/4 tooth off. Then the other will likely line up better but once you pull the pin and roll it over by hand, all should be well.
I have a quick question I just got the 96 Volvo 960 how do I turn on the AC when the button is pushed in it's a yellow light around the AC off does that mean the AC is on and when the button is sticking out does that mean the AC is off thank you if you can help me
Correct
Robert DIY I've seen most people usually insert a lock in the cams on Volvos when changing the timing belt since they have interference engines. I noticed you didn't do that here, is that something you would recommend doing?
Not really. When the crank in on the mark, the cams can be moved around all over the place. All you have to do is line the marks on the cams back up, install the belt, install the tensioner, and roll the motor over a couple of times before you hit the starter.
It's just more cost and something in the way to me. It may make it a little easier and make you feel safer but not really necessary.
is it possible to make a vid about changing the oil trap of the pcv system? mine is plugged up and i didnt find a manual to change it.
Hey Robert, thanks for the videos. I made my own tensioner tool after watching one on the serpentine belt. Disengaged it. I'm pretty sure I broke the timing belt on my 1995 Volvo 960 wagon. The screeching sound was still there after removing the s. belt. It's been towed to a shop. I'm reading the valves usually get bent. Any advice? You seem to be knowledgeable about a lot of these cars. I guess the simple question is: In your opinion, how bad is this likely to be?
If the car shut off it probably is busted. Did you pull the cover from the timing belt and look?
I had another question. That timing mark on the crank. I lined it up and the cams lined up too. Like a dummy I didn't put a dowel or anything in the spark plug hole or peer down inside to ensure that #1 cyl was at TDC. I got it apart today and #1 looks to be at the bottom of it's stroke. Maybe only half way. If I get this head rebuilt or get a used head from the yard. Upon reassembly, DOES that mark indicate #1 TDC or is this Volvo magic and the normal timing rules don't apply. The Cams are Cams and those can only be in one position given the sprockets attitude, however the crank can be at at least TWO positons when the marks are lined up. Right or not right.
+Daewoo Rifleparts not right. The bottom end makes 2 rotations for every 1 on the cams. Breath stroke and the fire stroke.
Old school vehicles that do not have exposed cam sprockets use TDC to assist in setting timing. Vehicles, Volvo's included, that have cams with belts outside of the engine use marks to set timing so the engine will run in rhythm.
I do my best not to leave out steps in my instructional videos. If you do things that I didn't tell you to do, it will likely lead to problems.
+Robert DIY Oh no worries. I'm dealing with the aftermath of a broken belt. So when I get this thing all together I need to know which position is correct for the crankshaft. The timing mark on the crank seems to indicate #1 about halfway down, perhaps a little less. I've got light exhaust strikes on all pistons and light intake strikes on two pistons. I obtained a new head from Florida and it's en route. I made a bunch of 2 minute vids to document my progress and I'm going to make a bunch documenting the reassembly.
+Daewoo Rifleparts The timing mark. Not sure how I can make that any more clear to you. Doesn't matter where the piston is, it could be on the ground as far as I care. When the marks are aligned, the car runs great.
+Robert DIY I get that. All things being equal and within the confines of doing a timing belt job. Got it. Totally, however, there's a sensor on the flywheel at the back of the motor. A crankshaft position sensor, and what i'm asking is...is it possible to put the engine together, AFTER a head change and have the crank be 180degrees wrong? Since the timing mark on the crank in the front, as you correctly stated, can be lined up twice per revolution of the engine. It's OK if you don't know. I don't know. That's why I'm asking.
No.
I'm going to buy a 965/V90 on Saturday, do you know any particular things to check out for on those cars? I'm experienced with working on 850 and 940 Volvos
Check for a head gasket problem. Other than that, not much.
I just need to reseal the cam cover. Do I need to remove the timing belt before I remove the cam cover? I am afraid pressure on the head from the belt will break the journals at the front of the head.
I would.
Hi Robert, how come in this video you use Peak Global Lifetime coolant, but you only exclusively use G-05 now? The Peak Global is actually better for the car, since it is silicate-free. The silicates in G-05 contribute to shorter water pump seal life (silicates are abrasive).
ruclips.net/video/dRYe5FE-Zjs/видео.html
Nice jobb!
Hey Robert, got a question for you man. My 97 960, just an hour ago started having a problem. I got out at the gas station and the alarm started going off and I couldn't start the car. on several occasions the doors would lock and the siren alarm would start sounding while I'm outside the car. and when i tried to unlock the door, it would unlock but lock immediately. i removed the remote entry battery and put it back in it appeared to solve the problem. the car started and I drove it home. Any idea what that could be?
You did what I would have done, good call. Sounds like the alarm has a bad button. You may need to replace the remote or fix it. I'm planning to try to fix a remote like that soon, I'll post the video.
Robert DIY domo arigatou gozaimashita.
blackpassenger i read on an xc90 forum that there is a battery in the alarm module, and the battery tends to leak acid on the circuit board of the module over time, causing the module to malfunction. the forum recommends changing the alarm module battery and cleaning or replacing the circuit board for the alarm module. do you think this applies to the 960?
Yo Robert, im back in the US from Japan, moved back 2 months ago. go do that timing belt service on my '98, as its due in about 5k miles. However, at low rpms, the timing belt is slapping against the casing when i start it up in the mornings. it stops doing that after when i start driving. i get the feeling the tensioner is on its way out. by the way, gonna replace all the shocks. what do you recommend? the billstein, boge, koni? also going to replace the engine mounts, tranny mount, control arm bushings, stabilizer bar links, stabilizer bar bushings and tyres. big job. parts are becoming obsolete for this car, so i tried to sell it when i came back. but no one responded. so i thought, since its in immaculate condition and has only 150k on it, Im just gonna keep it and buy another car. just picked up a 2003 nissan skyline (infinity g35 in america) with 91k miles for 4 grand. first japanese car. hate japanese cars, but this was a good deal.
If the timing belt is doing ANYTHING, I would not start it again until you replace it and the parts. It may break or let the belt jump teeth and that will destroy the engine.
ruclips.net/video/prgGkgTX3X0/видео.html
big thanks. Im purchasing the timing belt kit from fcp euro and noticed that it included an intermediate shaft seal, camshaft seal and a crankshaft seal. should I replace these seals too? never did that on my other 960s.
I’ve heard bad things about this engine. What is your opinion of them.
Good strong engines. Made to last 500,000 miles.
I looked up the mpg epa for the 960 and s90. The s90 says 24mpg hwy and the 960 says 26mpg hwy. what speed is best to get 26mpg hwy?
+Daniel McDaniels 75 mph. I once drove 538 miles on one take of gas in my 960. The sweet spot is around 63 mph and you can get 29 - 31 mpg.
+Daniel McDaniels 75 mph. I once drove 538 miles on one take of gas in my 960. The sweet spot is around 63 mph and you can get 29 - 31 mpg.
Ok what rpm and what gearing does it have? Mine has 3.73:1
+Daniel McDaniels Huh? I don't understand your question. You may need to get a manual.
Hi Robert. My 1992 960 has a different looking serpentine belt tensioner. It does not have the large square hole in it nor does it have a hole anywhere that I can insert the screw that comes with your serpentine belt tensioner holder kit. I would have liked to see how you twisted the tensioner with the monkey wrench so that I could figure out how to twist the 1992 version. My tensioner has an allen key hole in its centre and what looks like a 3/8 inch square hole at the top of it. Could I use these features to move the tensioner? I can take a picture of it to help clarify my comments if that would help. Robert Pellow.
p.s. I did receive your tensioner kit but it looks like I will not be able to use it.
Did you try to use it?
@@RobertDIY Yes. But it does not fit my particular layout. With my 1992 setup I can't see right now how to move the tensioner away from the belt and then to lock it in place. I don't have the large square hole in the centre of the tensioner spring nor do I have a set of holes I can line up [at least I have not seen them if they are there] to hold the tensioner in place so that the belt can be removed. I take it that you used an adjustable wrench to move the tensioner away from the belt [after inserting the square block of the kit into centre of the tensioner] and then you locked it in place with the yellow screw that comes with your kit. Do I have that right? If so I have an Allen key [hexagonal hole] where the large square hole is located on your car and I could use that to move the tensioner. Or I have this 3/8 inch square hole at the top of the tensioner frame that I could probably insert a socket extension into. Not sure how I would lock it once moved but I could experiment with that. I am not concerned about the small cost of your kit by the way. Your information is what is invaluable to an amateur like me. I think I have your email address and if so I will send you a picture of my setup. Bob
Yes.
Send a picture to my phone. You can probably take the tension off with an adjustable jaw wrench.
If you see ways to pull the tension off, just do it. No need to lock it off. Most cars don't have that option.
@@RobertDIY I got it off using a 3/8 inch drive socket. The square hole at the top of the tensioner is made to accept such a tool. It was actually quite simple--don't know why Volvo went to the larger hole in the later model cars. The tensioner has a self-locking set of nodules mounted to both sides of its frame that hold it in place once the belt has been removed. Regardless, your video step by step instruction has been invaluable.
Mine is a automatic. What is the gear ratio does your car have?
+Daniel McDaniels I do not know. You can check the online owners manual at the Volvo website.
How long will it take to pull the engine out and put another one in?
Is it cheapper to pull the engine out and put another one in or get the broke head bolt out and get a used head?
Most people say that it's easier to replace the engine than the head.
Robert DIY Ok another question. Is a 2.8L and 3.0L engine the same?
Daniel McDaniels no, a 2.8 is smaller than a 3.0.
Robert DIY Ok so the local junk yard is wanting 299.99 + 49.99 core charge for an EFI. is that a good price? Grand Strand Pick n Pull is the one my dad goes to get parts.
ok
It can be tough to see what you're talking about sometimes when there's no real visual context and you are talking about where an item is rather than pointing it out. You don't have to use your finger, a small length of dowel with a painted tip would show up very very well.
It's a non interference if it's a 2.9.
😳😂 Good luck with that.
I'll send you a private message.
hola robert
mira yo soy de chile y tengo problemas con volvo 960 station wagon por los repuesto
bomba de agua , temostato , buje delantero y lo otro tengo uno cables suelto debajo de radiador estan cortado en el lado derecho si hay alguien que tenga buenos precios pero barato porfavor y lo otro sobre los cable cortado para ue sirven los vemos
Dude your waste of time!!!!! Why you aint showing how you a removing thw parts???!!!!!!!
would you like a refund?
Thanks Robert 3 timing belt 2 damagedtop. Head l used motor other top head this one change waterpump time belt good job luck in future.
Thanks for watching.